Seattle the Potential for More Depth and Richness Than Any Other Culture I Can Think Of
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October 2007 - Volume Fourteen, Number Ten EXPEDITION NEWS, now in its 13th year, is the monthly review of significant expeditions, research projects and newsworthy adventures. It is distributed online and to media representatives, corporate sponsors, educators, research librarians, explorers, environmentalists, and outdoor enthusiasts. This forum on exploration covers projects that stimulate, motivate and educate. TRANSPATAGONIA EXPEDITION UPDATE EXPEDITION DEPARTS Don’t “Wave” Goodbye Just Yet hilean explorer Cristian Donoso is on a kayak ave Vidmar, best known for a solo and unsup- expedition in Western Patagonia this month, one ported North Pole expedition in 2004 (see EN, Cof the most inhospitable places on earth. Spending WMarch 2006), has postponed his solo row across five months navigating open seas and fjords and pulling the North Atlantic until next spring, according to a recent their kayaks across glaciers, Donoso and his team will face e-mail sent to EN from his base in Hopland, Calif. daunting physical and mental challenges as they gather information that will inform Chile, and the world, about this “I was expecting to be out on the Atlantic Ocean right now, row- little-known area. The project is the recipient of a Rolex ing solo from Cape Cod to England. Logistics, politics, and Laureate Award. severe weather put the kibosh on launching safely this season and I (painfully) had to postpone this expedition until next season With its labyrinth of rocky islands, serpentine channels, and (launch set for June 2008). My boat, Aquanova will be finished icy fjords, Western Patagonia in southern Chile is one of in Hopland and I’ll be touring with it before the row,” he writes. -
DEMOGRAPHICS LIST (INTERNATIONAL) Page: 1 International Snow Science Workshop Printed on Fri 17 October 08 at 16:47:24
International Conference Services Ltd DEMOGRAPHICS LIST (INTERNATIONAL) Page: 1 International Snow Science Workshop Printed on Fri 17 October 08 at 16:47:24 Name Position Organization State Country Adachi, Mr. Satoru Graduate school student Institute of Applied Physics, University of Tsukuba IBARAKI JAPAN Adams, Dr. Edward Professor Montana State University MT USA Adams, Ms. Holly Sportsinsurance.com BC CANADA Aguirre, Mr. Chris Ski Patrol Director BEAR VALLEY MOUNTAIN RESORT CA USA Ahern, Mr. Kevin Ski Patrol Director Breckenridge Ski Resort CO USA Ahern, Mr. Pat Ski Patrol Director Telluride Ski Area COLORADO USA Aikens, Mr. Dave Resorts of the Canadian Rockies B.C. CANADA Aitken, Mr. Scott Avalanche Technician BC Ministry of Transportation & Infrastructue BC CANADA Allen, Mr. Bruce District Snow Avalanche Technician BC Ministry of Transportation BC CANADA Allgöwer, Dr. Britta Managing Director Science City Davos - Wissensstadt Davos GRISONS SWITZERLAND Allyn, Mr. Jeremy Northwest Program Director Mountain Madness WA USA andersen, Ms. deanna Guide/Chef BC CANADA Andersen, Mr. Robb Snow Avalanche Technician BC Ministry of Transportation - Kootenay Pass BC CANADA Anderson, Mr. Andy Avalanche Forecaster Sierra Avalanche Center CA USA Anderson, Mr. Geoff Transport Canada BC CANADA Anderson, Ms. Susan Snow Safety Supervisor Deer Valley Ski Patrol UTAH USA Anson, Robbe Patrol Mission Ridge WA USA Arakawa, Mr. Hayato Yagai-Kagaku Co., Ltd. HOKKAIDO JAPAN Armitage, Mr. Nick Big Sky Ski Patrol MT USA Arnold, Mr. David Assistant Ski Patrol Director/Safety Bear Valley Mountain Resort CA USA Atkins, Mr. Dale RECCO AB CO USA Aubrey, Mr. Mark Crescent Spur Heli-Skiing BC CANADA Aufschnaiter, Mr. Andy Helicopter Ski Guide Mike Wiegele Helicopter Skiing BC CANADA Aufschnaiter, Hansi Tiroler Bergrettung TIROL AUSTRIA Ayres, Mr. -
Open by Summer
VOLUME 27, NO. 4 • APRIL 2009 Open by Summer CHINOOKCHINOOK PASSPASS WASHINGTONWASHINGTON above: The terrain east of Chinook Pass reveals the highway Story & Photos by John Stimberis located mid-track through the valley. Chinook Pass, Washington (1656 m), is home to State Route left: Two WSDOT Avalanche Forecasters head out for a day of work. 410. The WSDOT keeps the mountainous section of SR 410 below: The occasional hot dog lunch is the reward for closed throughout the winter due to excessive snowfall and keeping the equipment operators safe. TAR wonders if the avalanche hazards. Each spring the WSDOT avalanche crew missing ISSW weiner met his end in this manner? from Snoqualmie Pass arrives to assess the avalanche hazard. This is a place where our crew gets back to the roots of what we In This Issue do. No computers, phones, or traffic to deal with and limited weather information to get us through the day. Chinook Pass From the Executive Director . 2 is where we put the skins on the skis and head for the ridges From the Editor . 2 to search out the ideal conditions to make avalanches. Mailbag . 2 A crew of four or five equipment operators work below us Metamorphism . 3 and they depend on our sound judgment and observational AAA News. 3 skills to keep them safe throughout the day. They in turn What’s New . 4 reward us with the occasional hot dog lunch. The equipment Decision-Making operators often comment on how “crazy” we are for skiing X-Rated . 12 uphill with packs full of explosives, but when you see the Self-Rescue Thoughts . -
Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
State Park Contact Sheet Last Updated November 2016
WASHINGTON STATE PARKS AND RECREATION COMMISSION Film Permit Application State Park Contact Sheet Last Updated November 2016 AREA MANAGER PHONE PARK NAME PARK AREA ADDRESS EMAIL (@parks.wa.gov) REGION Sharon Soelter ALTA LAKE STATE PARK (509) 923-2473 Alta Lake State Park Alta Lake Area 1B OTTO ROAD [email protected] Eastern PATEROS WA 98846 Brian Hageman FORT WORDEN STATE PARK Anderson Lake (360) 344-4442 Olympic View Area 200 BATTERY WAY State Park [email protected] Southwest PORT TOWNSEND, WA 98368-3621 Chris Guidotti BATTLE GROUND STATE PARK Battle Ground Lake (360) 687-4621 Battle Ground Area PO BOX 148 State Park [email protected] Southwest HEISSON, WA 98622 Kevin Kratochvil RASAR STATE PARK (360) 757-0227 Bay View State Park Rasar Area 38730 CAPE HORN ROAD [email protected] Northwest CONCRETE, WA 98237 Chris Guidotti BATTLE GROUND STATE PARK Beacon Rock (509) 427-8265 Battle Ground Area PO BOX 148 State Park [email protected] Southwest HEISSON, WA 98622 Joel Pillers BELFAIR STATE PARK (360) 275-0668 Belfair State Park South Sound Area 3151 N.E. SR 300 [email protected] Southwest BELFAIR, WA 98528 Jack Hartt DECEPTION PASS STATE PARK Ben Ure Island Marine (360) 675-3767 Deception Pass Area 41020 STATE ROUTE 20 State Park [email protected] Northwest OAK HARBOR, WA 98277 Ted Morris BIRCH BAY STATE PARK (360) 371-2800 Birch Bay State Park Birch Bay Area 5105 HELWEG ROAD [email protected] Northwest BLAINE WA 98230 Dave Roe MANCHESTER STATE PARK Blake Island Marine (360) 731-8330 Blake -
Tolmie State Park Washington State Parks • Park Hours – 7730 61St Ave NE Olympia, WA 98506 April 16 to Sept
Things to remember Tolmie State Park Washington State Parks • Park hours – 7730 61st Ave NE Olympia, WA 98506 April 16 to Sept. 15, (360) 456-6464 8 a.m. to dusk. • Winter schedule – Sept. 16 to State Parks information: (360) 902-8844 April 15, 8 a.m. to dusk, Wednesday through Sunday. Although most parks Reservations: Online at are open year round, some parks or portions of www.parks.state.wa.us or call TolmieState Park parks are closed during the winter. For a winter (888) CAMPOUT or (888) 226-7688 schedule and information about seasonal Other state parks located in closures, visit www.parks.state.wa.us or call the the general area: information center at (360) 902-8844. Eagle Island, Joemma Beach, Millersylvania and Penrose Point • Moorage fees are charged year round for mooring at docks, floats and buoys from 1 p.m. to 8 a.m. • Wildlife, plants and all park buildings, signs, tables and other structures are protected; removal Connect with us on social media or damage of any kind is prohibited. Hunting, www.twitter.com/WAStatePks feeding of wildlife and gathering firewood on state park property is prohibited. www.facebook.com/WashingtonStateParks • Pets must be on leash and under physical control www.youtube.com/WashingtonStateParks at all times. This includes trail areas and campsites. Share your stories and photos: Adventure Awaits.com Pet owners must clean up after pets on all state park lands. S Sample If you would like to support Washington State S Sample Parks even more, please consider making a 2018 donation when renewing your license plate tabs. -
THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST: WASHINGTON and ORGEGON PART 2 NORTH and MIDDLE CASCADES and NORTH CASCADES
THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST: WASHINGTON AND ORGEGON PART 2 NORTH AND MIDDLE CASCADES and NORTH CASCADES Mt Baker Park Butte Mt Baker with my son Ethan Park Butte 2009 Hannigan Pass hike with my daughter clara Hannigan Pass 2017 with Clara, Right: Mt Shuksan and Price Glacier 2006 Philip and Ethan on the summit of Mt Ruth. Mt Shuksan in 2006 Mt Ruth climb with Ethan and Philip and in background Mt Shuksan 2006 Mt Shuksan climb I led from Lake Ann through the Fishure chimneys route 1981, right summit Above and below: Mt Shuksan climb 1981 Mt Shuksan I led with friends climb 1981 base camp at Lake Ann. Above and below Mt Baker climb 1968 with George Dalton Mt Baker from skyline 2014 with bekah, clara and ethan NORTH CASCADES Mt Eldorado and Sahale Arm, North Cascades Summit of Bostan Peak with Eric Pentila, 1966. Eric played center for the U of W footballs team Mt Eldado, climbed several times in one day ascents, 1968 and 1973 Above and Below: Summit pyramids of Mt Eldorado 1973 Inspiration glacier on mt Eldorado Dome Peak climb 1984 Dome Peak climb 1984 STEHEKIN AND HOLDEN VILLAGE Mountaineers Summer outing 1963 Park Creek Meadows and Mt Buckner. Summit of Mt Booker, Buckner Left Mt Booker with the summit of Mt Buckner to the right; Glacier Peak from High Pass to the south of Stehekin Buckner, Torment, Sahale and far right Mt Eldrado from summit of Mt Logan, Mountaineers Summer outing 1963 Lake Chelan, a 55 mile long lake that with the boat Lady of the Lake, took passengers to Lucerne, and Stehekin Holden Village reached from Lucerne and the Lake -
The Dawn Wall
AAC Publications The Dawn Wall The Long Struggle For The World's Hardest Big-Wall Free Climb Standing at the base of the Dawn Wall on December 27, 2014, I attempt to break the nervous tension. “It’s the low-pressure push,” I say with a grin. I know it’s bullshit. Once we start, we’re going to the top. “One pitch at a time,” Tommy responds. I nod and start climbing. Six years earlier, I was sitting on top of a 55-foot boulder at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Just a few moments before, I’d been 45 feet off the deck, ropeless, on my most ambitious highball first ascent to date. For the past two years, I’d constantly put myself in positions like this. I was obsessed with pushing the standards of highball bouldering, rolling the dice with each sketchy first ascent. Ambrosia pushed the bar even higher, not just blurring the lines between highball and solo but crossing it. To continue meant becoming a free soloist, and I was unwilling. Not only did I need a new project, I needed a new discipline of the sport. The climbing film Progression, released in late summer of 2009, featured both Ambrosia and Tommy Caldwell’s new big-wall free climbing project. When I saw the closing scene of Tommy’s segment, I heard an invitation: “I look at this next generation of climbers doing things on the boulders and sport climbs that I can’t conceive of. If they could apply that kind of talent to the big walls, that’s what it would take to free climb this project. -
2019 Work Catalog
FIRE & RESCUE / CLIMB / TOWER TACTICAL / ROPE ACCESS / ARBOR WORK 2019 The top triangle embodies the will of humanity and the drive to ascend ever upward. Aiding people in the battle against the negative force of gravity is at the center of Sterling's reason for being. When you can be bold, courageous and safe, you can own the moment. We call that Freedom to Focus. The bottom triangle serves as the force of gravity, seeking always to ground us. 2019 FEATURED PRODUCT Escape System Lightning GT Unparalleled performance. Unmatched customization. At Sterling we’re dedicated to fire fighter safety. We pioneered the development of escape systems SafeD™ that allow rapid egress and self- Carabiner rescue – all built on the foundation of our proven, trusted ropes. The FCX Escape System is our latest innovation designed around FCX™ Device the needs of fire fighters and departments. FireTech2 Rope Abrasion Resistant Reinforced Pocket Bag A portion of every Sterling FCX Escape System sold is donated to the Lt. Joseph P. DiBernardo Memorial Foundation. Proudly For additional details, specifications, and Certified to 1983 Made in U.S.A. customization options see page 36 or contact NFPA Escape System with U.S. and Globally Sourced Material our sales team. Our Pledge is Simple We have committed to ourselves and to those who use and rely on our products that we’ll never compromise quality; we’ll never stop innovating real-world solutions, and we’ll deliver the most reliable equipment possible. At Sterling, we’re proud to design and build all of our Life- Safety Rope under one roof in Biddeford, Maine. -
1967, Al and Frances Randall and Ramona Hammerly
The Mountaineer I L � I The Mountaineer 1968 Cover photo: Mt. Baker from Table Mt. Bob and Ira Spring Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and April by The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington, 98111. Clubroom is at 719Y2 Pike Street, Seattle. Subscription price monthly Bulletin and Annual, $5.00 per year. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North west America; To make expeditions into these regions m fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, Editor, Geraldine Chybinski, Margaret Fickeisen, Kay Oelhizer, Alice Thorn Material and photographs should be submitted to The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington 98111, before November 1, 1968, for consideration. Photographs must be 5x7 glossy prints, bearing caption and photographer's name on back. The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate support is available who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recommended. Carry at all times the clothing, food and equipment necessary. Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. -
Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Day 3 – Ski Mountainee
Day 1 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 1: Introduction to Glacier Kit ● Lesson 2: Equalized anchor, knots and rappelling ● Lesson 3: Ascending the rope – prussic, ratchet, reverse ● Lesson 4: Situational awareness, review hazards ● Lesson 5: Glacier travel rope handling & crevasse rescue ● Lesson 6: Dividing the rope ● Lesson 7: The prussik ● Lesson 8: Arresting the fall, holding the victim and anchor building ● Lesson 9: Backing up anchor and approaching the lip ● Lesson 10: Canadian drop loop system demo ● Lesson 11: Incorporating a ratchet ● Lesson 12: First raise method, z-pulley raising system, adding advantage. ● Lesson 13: Reversing the raise & lowering ● Lesson 14: Crevasse Rescue Scenario ● Lesson 15: Problem-solving specific scenario Day 2 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 16: Rope up point strategy (map & altimeter) & white out plan ● Lesson 17: Glacier formation, physiology, terminology and travel including rope handling and taking coils ● Lesson 18: Safe glacier travel route finding & track setting – crevasse avoidance, serac hazard mitigation, dealing with avalanche terrain, crevasse bridge integrity and evaluation ● Lesson 19: Traveling in echelon & belaying across crevasse bridges ● Lesson 20: Downhill glacier skiing safety strategy Day 3 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 1: “Snow and ice school” – introduction to ski mountaineering equipment, ski crampons and boot crampons, ice axe. ● Lesson 2: Ascending/descending and moving in steeper firmer/crusted/icy slopes. ● Lesson 3: Belaying and rappelling, anchors. ● Lesson 4: Roped vs. unroped terrain – belaying, rope management, short roping, boot packing, stowing the skis on the pack, ridge walking. Day 4 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 5: Ski mountaineering objective: situational awareness, route finding and track setting in Class 3 (complex) terrain. -
Mount Everest Foundation Expedition Reports 1995 SUMMARISED by BILL RUTHVEN
Mount Everest Foundation Expedition Reports 1995 SUMMARISED BY BILL RUTHVEN ach year, the Mount Everest Foundation supports a number of expedi Etions undertaking exploration in one form or another amongst the high mountains of the world. As well as 'Approval' - which in itself some times has the effect of opening other purses - most expeditions also receive a grant, usually ranging between £200 and £1500. Whilst this only repre sents a small proportion of the overall cost of an expedition, the moral support and the promise of a few hundred pounds during the preparatory stages of an expedition can sometimes make the difference between it going and not going. All that the MEF asks in return is a comprehensive report. Once received, copies are lodged with the Alpine Club Library, the Royal Geographical Society and the British Mountaineering Council where they are available for consultation by future expeditioners. The following notes are based on reports that have been received during 1995, and are divided into geogra phical areas. America - North 95/14 British Hub-Sew 1995 Geoff Hornby (with Dean Freeman, Stephen Jones and Tom Nonis). May-June 1995 On arrival in the Mount Logan area of Canada, this team was surprised to find very little snow, but later over four metres fell in a single night. Hub-Sew (3570m) looked unsafe throughout the expedition, so attention was turned to other peaks in the vicinity. A new route was climbed on Wood Peak (4840m), which they called the Sinclair Spur in memory of Mark Sinclair who was to have been a member of the team but was killed earlier in the year.