From the Black Sea, ships could Georgia: A Culinary Crossroads sail up the Phasis River (today’s Rioni). Goods were then portaged Darra Goldstein over the Likhi Range to the Kura Williams College River Valley and on to Persia. By Williamstown, Massachusetts (USA) the early Middle Ages Tiflis had become a major stopover on the medieval trade routes, a midpoint A Brief History Thanks to its agricultural riches between Moslem East and and long tradition of hospitality, Christian West [Fig. 2]. For centuries, the tiny nation of Georgia was an object of desire Georgia has stood at the for many outsiders, not all of Tbilisi itself was founded in the confluence of East and West. whom were good guests. fifth century when, according to Geographically part of Asia, yet a legend, King Vakhtang Gorgaslani, Christian nation, Georgia has The Georgians date the on a hunt near the Kura River, historically looked more often to beginnings of their culture to the killed a pheasant, which he the West — so much so, that the sixth century BCE. The ancient retrieved fully cooked from the hot capital city of Tiflis (Tbilisi) was Greeks established colonies along springs where it had fallen. once known as the Paris of the the Black Sea coast in a region Toasting his good fortune, Caucasus. Lying athwart the major they called Colchis. In 66 BCE, Gorgaslani vowed to create a city trade routes between East and when the Roman general Pompey on this auspicious site. He called West, Tiflis maintained a grand invaded and brought the area it “Tbilis-kalaki” or “Warm City” caravanserai where merchants under Roman rule, Greek control (hence the name “Tbilisi”; outside could stable their animals, store came to an end, but the outposts their wares, and themselves find in Colchis remained important Fig. 2. Map of Georgia. Copyright © by shelter [Fig. 1, facing page]. links in the trade route to Persia. Paul J. Pugliese. Used by permission.
11 of Georgia, the city was known as century, the country was country, with its economy Tiflis into the twentieth century). effectively split in two, with dependent upon the Soviet Following a mid-seventh-century western Georgia falling under the system. Georgia’s citrus fruits, invasion, Tiflis fell under Arab Turkish sphere of influence, and fresh vegetables, herbs, tea, and control, and even though Georgia eastern Georgia politically part of wines found a ready market in had accepted Christianity in the northwest Iran. Repeated attacks Russia and the other Soviet fourth century, it remained a from the Persians, the Turks, and republics, and the Georgian Moslem city-state. Only in the Moslem tribesmen in Dagestan to economy flourished. When the ninth century, when the Bagrationi the north finally caused the Soviet system fell apart, the dynasty came into power, did Georgians to turn to Russia for country suddenly experienced Georgia begin to exert itself as a help. In 1783, King Irakli II, the severe economic distress, strong Christian nation. Even so, beleaguered successor to the exacerbated by political conflicts between the eighth and eleventh ancient Bagrationi dynasty, signed in the breakaway regions of centuries Tiflis was controlled the Treaty of Georgievsk, which Abkhazia and South Ossetia, both successively by Arabs, Khazars, acknowledged Russia’s sove- of which the Russians supported. and Seljuks. reignty, and in 1801 Russia These conflicts led to civil unrest incorporated Georgia into its in the early 1990s. By 1998, things The early tenth century saw the empire. The Russian presence in had quieted down, but in 2005, rise of an independent feudal Georgia lasted until 1918 when, just as the Georgian economy was monarchy, and during the reign of following the October Revolution, beginning to recover, Russia David the Builder (1089-1125) Georgia declared its inde- embargoed all Georgian agri- Tiflis was finally freed from foreign pendence. Although the two cultural products, including the control. Under the rule of the great countries had signed a non- Borzhomi mineral water that queen Tamara (1184-1212), interference treaty, in 1921 provided an important source of Georgia experienced a renais- Bolshevik troops invaded, and export revenue. In 2006 Russia sance, a good two hundred years once again Georgia was in- extended the embargo to before Italy. During this time, the corporated into its more powerful Georgian wines, claiming that they Gelati Academy in the western neighbor to the north, this time had been adulterated. This move province of Imereti housed an the Soviet Union. was, in fact, political, in retaliation important school of philosophy for Georgia’s desire to ally itself and offered advanced teachings in Until the dissolution of the Soviet with the West by seeking astronomy, medicine, and music. Union in 1991, Georgia existed as membership in NATO and the In eastern Georgia, near Telavi, a constituent republic of that European Union. The Russians the arts and sciences were assiduously pursued in the famous academy at Ikalto, which included the world’s first school devoted to the serious study of wine.
As an important stopover on the trade routes, Tiflis both benefited and suffered from repeated waves of migration and invasion. The country’s brilliant renaissance came to an end when the Mongols invaded in the second quarter of the thirteenth century. The Mongol occupation lasted until the early fourteenth century, after which Georgia was ruled by Iranians and then Turks, who gained ascendance after the fall of Constantinople in 1453. The Georgians found themselves trapped amidst the shifting politics and allegiances of its neighbors; only Armenia to the south, a second island of Christianity in the After Kuznetsov 1983 Islamic world, presented no Fig. 3. Niko Pirosmani, Jackasses’ Bridge, a painting which depicts the threat. By the late sixteenth Georgian love of dining al fresco, whether under a pergola or on a boat.
12 were further displeased the tart taste they prefer the by the Baku-Tbilisi- Georgians more often stew Ceyhan oil project and meat with sour plums or the Baku-Tbilisi-Erzerum pomegranates than with natural gas pipeline, both sweeter fruits like quince or of which bypass Russian prunes. The prized Georgian territory. Nevertheless, khinkali—the overstuffed Russia’s attempts to boiled dumplings of the control Georgia must be mountainous zones — reveal seen in historical the culinary influence of perspective, as the Central Asian Turks. Along Russians are only the the Black Sea coast in latest in a series of western Georgia, the stuffed outsiders to covet this Photo © copyright 1993 Daniel C. Waugh vegetable tolmas resemble Fig. 4. The Caucasus Range, bordering Georgia rich land. on the north, seen from Mt. Elbrus. Turkey’s various dolmas. But the Georgians never The Flavors of Georgia developed a taste for the Remarkably, through all the The second myth tells that while elaborate oriental sweets from invasions, sieges, and subju- God was creating the world, He Turkish, Persian, or Armenian gations, Georgia has maintained wisely took a break for supper. But kitchens; instead, they limit a strong national identity, a He happened to trip over the high dessert mainly to fresh fruits and societal pride greater than peaks of the Caucasus range [Fig. nut preparations. patriotism, akin to a religious 4], spilling a little of everything Not yet fully documented is the belief in the sacredness of the from His plate onto the land below. kinship of Georgian food with that earth and its ability to sustain. This And so it was that Georgia came of northern India. The cor- devout relationship to their to be blessed with such riches, respondences in culinary ter- surroundings existed long before table scraps from Heaven. In fact, minology between contemporary the Georgians accepted Christ- the agricultural bounty of this Georgian and Hindi are especially ianity. Two creation myths often small country is exceptional, and notable in a language like retold at the feast table capture even today 50 percent of the Georgian, which is not even Indo- the mix of reverence and population is engaged in some sort European but South Caucasian, an irreverence that characterizes the of farming. It is not surprising that entirely separate linguistic group. Georgian attitude toward life [Fig. the early Greeks called the The Georgian word for bread, like 3, facing page]. As one myth goes, Georgians georgos, “those who the Hindi, is puri; and the the first Georgians were seated work the land,” whence our English under a pergola at a table laden term derives. with wine and food. So engrossed were they in feasting on grilled The presence of so many outside lamb with plum sauce and garlicky rulers and visitors inevitably roasted eggplant that they missed introduced foreign ways into God’s deadline for choosing a Georgia, including certain in- country, so the world was divided fluences on the cuisine. Georgian up without them. His task food is reminiscent of both complete, God set off for home, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern only to find the Georgians still tastes, the result of a rich interplay merrily toasting and singing. God of culinary ideas carried along the stopped to reproach them for their trade routes by merchants and negligence, but the tamada, the travelers alike. Yet the Georgians toastmaster, remained uncon- did not adopt all the culinary cerned. They had spent their time practices that came their way, and well, he explained, thanking God today Georgian cuisine remains in lavish toasts for having created distinct, particularly in its such a magnificent world. Pleased extensive use of walnuts [Fig. 5]. that the Georgians had not Some borrowed practices are forgotten Him, God rewarded easily recognizable, of course. The them with the very last spot on pilafs of southeastern Georgia After Chiaureli 1984 earth, the one He had been saving echo those of neighboring Iran, Fig. 5. A woman making churchkhela for Himself. And so it was that the and the meats simmered with fruit by stringing walnuts and dipping them Georgians came to live in are similar to variations of Persian repeatedly into concentrated fresh paradise. khoresh (stew), though to yield grape juice to form a confection.
13 Georgians use a clay oven, the predominate over pine nuts and Kartli, the eastern province in toné, for baking bread and almonds. So well loved are which the capital city of Tbilisi is roasting, much as Indians of the walnuts that many standard located, is known for its orchard Punjab use the tandoor. The dishes prepared without nuts, fruits, especially apples and Georgian tapha, a special pan for such as the spicy beef soup peaches, the best of which come making the succulent Chicken kharcho or the chicken stew from the environs of Gori, where Tabaka that is so emblematic of chakhokhbili, often include Stalin was born. The local markets Georgian cuisine, is related to the walnuts in their western Georgian abound with seasonal golden lady cast-iron skillet or tava of northern renditions. Freshly pressed walnut apples, pink gooseberries, red and India. And curry blends find their oil provides a necessary sup- black currants, many varieties of counterpart in khmeli-suneli, plement of fat (including a healthy plums — sweet and sour; purple, Georgia’s aromatic seasoning dose of Omega-3s), as do the rich yellow, green, and red — apricots, mixture, though a typical blend of suluguni and imeruli cow’s milk pears, berries, sweet cherries, and khmeli-suneli is based more on cheeses used in place of butter sour shindi or cornelian cherries, herbs than on spices. It includes with cornbread. the juice of which Georgian ground coriander, basil, dill, warriors once drank before battle summer savory, parsley, mint, Regional Variations to fortify their blood. Mounds of fenugreek, bay leaf, and marigold, dried fruits and locally grown which turns foods a deep yellow, walnuts, almonds, and hazelnuts as does curry’s turmeric. Stretching as it does from the are available year round. Black Sea nearly all the way to the But differences often reveal Caspian, the Republic of Georgia Georgian dishes evolved more than similarities. What most is remarkably diverse, with naturally from the produce distinguishes Georgian cuisine numerous climatic zones, from the available, and traditional methods from that of its neighbors is the mountainous to the subtropical. of preparation have hardly use of walnuts, not merely as The Likhi Range running north to changed over the years; high tech garnish, but as an integral south effectively divides the does not yet have a solid place in component in a wide variety of country in half. Western Georgia, the Georgian kitchen. To an dishes. To offset what might bordering on the Black Sea, extraordinary degree, Georgians otherwise be a cloying richness endures high precipitation and still integrate the outdoors into from the nuts, many recipes call steamy temperatures. Here tea their lives when they cook and eat. for a souring agent. Yogurt and citrus fruits thrive. Eastward Whether gathered on a city (matsoni), pungent cheese, and the climate grows progressively balcony for a formal meal or by immature wine (machari) often drier, until sere Central Asian the roadside for an impromptu serve as counterpoints to ground winds buffet the plateaus to the picnic, Georgians consider al walnuts; vinegar or fruit juices and east of the Likhi chain. This hot, fresco dining the best way to eat, fruit leathers similarly lend dry atmosphere produces the lush a chance to appreciate nature balance. The ground and dried stone fruits and grapes of the while consuming its gifts. Although petals of marigold, known as Kartli and Kakheti provinces. The the ancients considered grilling Imeretian saffron, lend an earthy boundary between East and West the most primitive of cooking depth to Georgian dishes and set is also visible in the relative degree methods, and boiling the most them apart from those of other of spiciness to the food. Eastern refined, grilling remains a culinary cultures. For instance, Georgians prefer a cool, fresh preferred way to cook meats in cinnamon and vinegar regularly taste, thanks in part to their hot, Georgia — a legacy, perhaps, of flavor meat in the Georgian diet, arid summers, while western the Promethean legend just as they do in Middle Eastern Georgians add generous amounts (Prometheus is said to have given cuisines, but marigold rather than of fresh and dried hot pepper to fire to mankind when he was true saffron adds the distinctive their food. A second difference lies chained to a rock on Mount Elbrus touch. in the western Georgian in the Caucasus). A second preference for corn over wheat. standard method of preparing Other differences are visible in Here mchadi or corncakes are food is by slow cooking, and the staple foods. Where Persian prepared instead of puri. As is Georgian cuisine has an extensive cooks turn to rice and Armenians evident from their reliance on such repertoire of soups and stews. The use bulgur, Georgians rely on ingredients as corn, peppers, and heat remaining in the toné after wheat and corn. And instead of the beans, western Georgian cooks bread baking is used for dishes like legumes typically found in the put New World crops to good use. purnis mtsvadi, lamb braised Middle East and the Mediterranean Another New World transplant, the slowly in a clay pot. — lentils, chickpeas, and favas — tomato, is highly appreciated by Georgians favor kidney beans, like eastern and western Georgians Perhaps the single most corn a New World crop. Walnuts alike. important implement in the
14 Georgian kitchen is a mortar and railroad pestle for grinding nuts and worker who spices. Although many affluent painted families now have food signboards processors, the best Georgian in exchange cooks swear by labor-intensive for food and hand grinding, since it yields the drink, was finest texture. In western Georgia, known as After Khromchenko 1987 chkmeruli (fried chicken) and the “Geor- corncakes are baked in special red gian Rous- clay dishes called ketsi, which seau” for his range in diameter from six to fanciful twelve inches. The use of ketsi is animals and another way in which the naïve de- Georgians continue to practice pictions of time-honored cooking methods. everyday This technique can be traced back moments in to the ancient Egyptians, who city and stacked earthenware pots filled country life. Fig. 7. Elena Akhvlediani, Tbilisi Dukhan, 1970s. with food atop one another to seal Pirosmani’s scenes of feasting and tables both cultivated and wild. in moisture — creating an oven, carousals capture both the Over one hundred varieties of such in effect — before baking the food exuberance and solemnity of wild greens as sarsaparilla, over an open fire. these occasions. Other artists of nettles, mallow, ramp, and the early twentieth-century purslane are still gathered in The pull of tradition is visible not Georgian avant-garde, such as season and prepared in a only in the culinary arts but also Lado Gudiashvili, display a less surprising number of ways — in paintings by some of Georgia’s sunny sensibility. His paintings of cooked, marinated, dried for most celebrated artists. Niko men awaiting a bowl of tripe soup seasoning, or steeped in water for Pirosmanashvili (Pirosmani), a (khashi) or eyeing some freshly a nutritious drink. But above all, caught fish (tso- the Georgians enjoy their greens
After tskhali) offer a fresh, and no Georgian table is glimpse into a dark, complete without a large platter Gudiashvili mysterious world of leafy cilantro, dill, tarragon, [Fig. 6]. During the parsley, basil, summer savory, and Soviet era, artists peppery tsitsmati or falseflax 1984 like Elena Akhvle- (Camelina sativa, similar to diani painted nos- arugula). Often there is also talgic portraits of a dzhondzholi (Colchis bladdernut, leisurely way of life Staphylea colchica), an edible that was fast dis- ornamental plant with long stems appearing [Fig. 7]. of tightly furled, beadlike tendrils redolent of garlic. The greens, The Georgian Table which are rich in nutrients, provide Throughout most of a refreshing counterpoint to the Georgia’s history, heavier foods in the meal. meat was a luxury, and so the Geor- These foods are washed down gians took great with wine and local mineral waters advantage of the like Borzhomi and Nabeghlavi, indigenous fruits, which have long been touted for vegetables, and their health benefits. To diners herbs. The bulk of used to the mild taste of Perrier the Georgian culin- or Pellegrino, these waters seem ary repertoire is heavy and salty (so much so, that made up of pre- Borzhomi is now bottling a parations for vege- “Borzhomi Light”), but Georgians and Russians have traditionally put Fig. 6. Lado Gudiashvili, them to therapeutic use in Tsotskhali (Fresh Fish), addition to serving them at table. 1924. Certain foods are also considered
15 a glass of wine. Georgians do not Fig. 8. Lado Gudiashvili, Khashi, 1919. sip, and drinking out of order or at random is not allowed. A merikipe is appointed to make The rules for sure that diners’ glasses are filled commensal cele- at all times [Fig. 9]. bration are strict. Most important, a The rules of the Georgian table tamada or toast- call for uplifting toasts, so that master is chosen to each occasion, even a sad one, orchestrate all but becomes an affirmation of life. the most informal Traditionally, toasting begins with meals. (This practice glasses raised heavenward in may have evolved acknowledgment of God’s from the ancient presence. Then the host family is Greek custom of toasted, particularly the lady of choosing a sympos- the house responsible for the iarch to guide the meal. The tamada’s ability to pace progression of the the evening is crucial. Each time feast.) The role of a toast is pronounced, whether by the tamada is taken the tamada or someone else, wine 1984 very seriously, and is drunk as a mark of honor. But if he is accorded great inebriation seems likely, the respect, for it re- tamada must slow down the Gudiashvili quires skill to keep succession of toasts. The all the guests en- After traditional meal is punctuated by tertained, ensure breaks for entertainment, often a that the meal is capella singing, a holdover from especially nutritious. Khashi, a proceeding apace, and see to it medieval patterns of feasting much-loved tripe soup (and that no one drinks or eats to when entremets were actual favored hangover remedy), is excess, as drunken guests bring diversions. frequently prescribed for digestive shame on the host. The best problems [Fig. 8]. Nadugi, the tamadas are renowned for their Given such ritualized drinking, delicious whey derived from cow’s wit and eloquence, including an the apparent chaos of the food milk and often served mixed with ability to improvise. The tamada service may seem surprising. fresh herbs, is virtually fat-free guides the company through a Courses are not always presented and is considered a sclerosis series of toasts, which can be brief in the fixed order of the service à preventative. or complex. Each calls for downing la russe that western Europeans,
Food is only one component of the Georgian feast, however. A formal Georgian meal, or supra, is a ritual affair that calls for the skillful exercise of moderation in the face of excess — no small feat, considering the meal’s courtesies and extravagances. The shared table is meant, above all, to promote a feeling of kinship and national unity. Centuries of gathering around the table to affirm longstanding traditions have helped the Georgians preserve their culture even under foreign subjugation. The supra represents the collective public face the Georgians proudly present to the world even as it reflects the honor of an individual After Kuznetsov 1983 household. Fig. 9. Niko Pirosmani, Carousal. The loaves on the table are shoti, baked in the toné. A traditional wineskin is visible in the foreground.
16 and later Americans, adopted in yield distinctive wines of a lovely, the nineteenth century, and which deep amber hue and a raisiny still prevails in Europe and America taste with a hint of Madeira. today. By contrast, the Georgian style of service is intended to Traditionally, wine was made in dazzle the eye and pique the large, red clay amphorae known palate through contrasting colors, as kvevri [Figs. 10, 11]. Nearly textures, and flavors. When diners every Georgian country household sit down to eat, the table is already has a marani, a place where the laid with a wide variety of dishes. temperature remains cool and As the meal progresses, the steady. Here the kvevris are hostess does not remove serving buried up to their necks in the plates that still contain food but earth. If the house lacks an rather continues to pile new dishes After Kakabadze 1984 earthen cellar, the kvevri are buried directly in the ground on the table, balancing some on Fig. 10. A newly fired kvevri in the kiln. the edges of others, so that by the outdoors. To make wine by the end of the evening the table is Georgia in the fourth century. Kakhetian method, the freshly laden with a pyramid of plates, Bearing a cross plaited of dried crushed juice, along with the ensuring plenty at every stage. vines and tied with her own hair, skins, stems, and seeds, is poured Saint Nino seemed to represent into the buried amphorae and Georgian Wine divine approval for the wine- stirred four or six times a day for If food is the heart of the Georgian making that had been practiced three to five months. The resulting feast, then its spirit resides in for centuries. The new wine is called wine. For a Georgian, wine evokes vine and the cross machari. When the both culture and community. became inextricably wine has achieved Based on evidence of grape pips entwined, each an the desired degree of unearthed from archeological object of devotion. fermentation, it is sites, viticulture is an ancient art drawn off from the in Georgia, practiced as early as The center of wine After Chiarulei 1984 lees. If produced the fourth millennium BCE. growing in Georgia is commercially, the Scientists believe that the species Kakheti, in the wine is transferred to Vitis vinifera, the original wine eastern half of the oak barrels to age for grape, is native to the Caucasus country. The region at least a year, but region, and many linguists is known for its homemade wine is consider the Georgian word for traditional method of usually ladled by wine, ghvino, the prototype for winemaking, which means of a special such Indo-European variations as differs considerably long-handled gourd vino, vin, wine, Wein. The grape from standard Euro- from the first kvevri vine symbolizes life and faith, a pean practices (be- into smaller ones for belief that Saint Nino of cause it is so labor Fig. 12. A wine vessel from aging. These kvevris Bombori. Bronze, 2nd c. BCE. Cappadocia adapted to Christian intensive, it is dying are topped with a doctrine when she introduced it to out as a commercial process). wooden lid, then sealed with mud. After the grapes are crushed, the Dirt is mounded all around the lid Fig. 11. Niko Pirosmani, Two juice is fermented together with to keep air out, lest it spoil the Georgians with a kvevri. the skins, stems, and seeds to wine. Whenever wine is taken off from a kvevri in any quantity, the After Kuznetsov 1983 Kuznetsov After remainder is transferred to progressively smaller vessels. Some Georgian families still use special vessels to bring wine to table, such as the chapi, a two- handled jug with a squat neck and bulbous body tapering to a narrow base. From this transitional vessel the wine is poured into a variety of other containers intended either for pouring or drinking [Fig. 12]. Quite common are a single- handled pitcher and the more
17 elaborate “mother jug” (deda- disappeared or been restyled for exploring ways in which food can khelada) composed of a central the notoriously sweet Russian be used to promote tolerance and pitcher with several smaller palate. diversity, and under her editorship pitchers affixed to the sides, like the volume Culinary Cultures of a mother with numerous breasts. That a small country with a Europe: Identity, Diversity and shattered infrastructure should Dialogue was published in 2005 to The most widespread red wine place its hopes on fairly traditional, commemorate the 50th anni- grape of Georgia is Saperavi, organic agriculture in the twenty- versary of the signing of the which, depending on its treat- first century is noteworthy, and in European Cultural Convention. ment, can yield wines ranging the wake of the Russian Goldstein has also consulted for from the dry to the semi-sweet. embargoes, the US government the Russian Tea Room and Firebird For white wines, the indigenous has stepped in to help. In restaurants in New York and is Rkatsiteli grape makes nicely particular, the AgVANTAGE currently Food Editor of Russian acidic wines with a fresh, green program, funded by USAID, is Life magazine. She serves on the taste. Both varietals predominate helping producers find new Board of Directors of the in Kakheti’s Alazani River Valley, markets in Europe and the United International Association of which lies between the high peaks States to make up for the loss of Culinary Professionals and is of the Greater Caucasus to the exports to Russia. The govern- General Editor of California Studies northeast and the foothills of the ment consultants are focusing in Food and Culture (University of Tsiv-Gombori Range to the primarily on Georgian wines, for California Press), a book series southeast. They are made into which they believe significant that seeks to broaden the wines bearing such controlled demand can be created abroad. audience for serious scholarship in appellations as Mukuzani, Hazelnuts are also being promoted food studies and to celebrate food Kindzmarauli, and Tsinandali. for export, as the best Georgian as a means of understanding the Today, artisanal producers like varieties are deeper in flavor than world. She may be contacted at Mildiani make some extraordinary those grown in the Italian
18 tender, with no extra liquid added. morning, preferably between six walnuts are added. Mkhali is made Georgian girls were once deemed and eight a.m. following a night from any number of different marriageable according to their of heavy drinking. vegetables; spinach and beets are ability to cut up chicken for this the most popular. Khinkali: Large dumplings made dish. The most traditional recipes with a variety of fillings. In the Mtsvadi: skewers of plain, freshly call for seventeen precise pieces. mountainous regions the choice is slaughtered lamb, beef, or pork, Chanakhi: an aromatic stew of usually ground lamb, but else- what we know as shish kebab. If meat and vegetables braised where the filling is more often a the meat is not tender, it can be slowly in a clay pot to deepen and mixture of beef and pork. The marinated overnight before meld the flavors. dumplings may also be stuffed grilling, in which case it is known with cheese or greens. Khinkali as basturma. Churchkhela: a long string of are served hot, with no garnish nuts that have been repeatedly other than coarsely ground black Pelamushi: a dessert made by dipped in concentrated fresh pepper. The doughy topknot is mixing concentrated grape juice grape juice to form a confection. never consumed but used as a with cornmeal. The thickened Churchkhela is made with walnuts handle for holding the hot cornmeal is cut into brilliant purple or hazelnuts, either from whole dumplings. diamonds. nuts or halves. Khmeli-suneli: an herb and spice Satsivi: the renowned Georgian Kartuli puri: An elongated oval mixture typically containing nut sauce, served with poultry, loaf of bread baked in the toné. ground dried coriander seed, fish, or vegetables. Ground Kartuli puri is thicker in the center ground celery seed, dried basil, dill walnuts are mixed with garlic, than at the edges, so that lovers parsley, fenugreek summer cinnamon, cloves, coriander seed, of both crust and chewy interior savory, bay leaf, and mint. Ground marigold, pepper, cayenne, and can enjoy their favorite textures. dried marigold petals are often vinegar, and stock. After the sauce Khachapuri: a cheese bread added as well. has cooked, the prepared poultry, fish, or meat is immersed in it, found throughout Georgia in many Lobio: The Georgian word for guises — round, rectangular, and then allowed to cool to room beans, either fresh or dried. Lobio temperature, which thickens the boat-shaped. The dough can be also refers to an aromatic salad, yeasty with a thick crust, many- sauce and gives the dish its name usually made from dried kidney (the root -tsiv means “cold”). layered and flaky, or tender and beans, that is prepared in dozens cakelike. The bread is usually filled of ways: moistened with herb Suluguni: the most widely used with a fresh, slightly sour cheese vinaigrette, seasoned simply with Georgian cheese, made from like imeruli (Imeretian) or butter and eggs, or mixed with cow’s milk. Suluguni is usually sold suluguni, but salted cheeses like lettuce and celery. The classic in large rounds up to a foot in bryndza may also be used, as long recipe calls for mixing the beans diameter, but for special occasions as they are soaked first. The with tkemali, the tangy plum it is prepared in flat, individual cheese is grated and mixed with sauce. disks that can be thinly rolled. eggs to bind, with butter added if it is not creamy enough. The filling Masharabi: a sour pomegranate Tabaka: partially boned young is then either completely enclosed syrup for flavoring stews. Fresh chicken that is flattened, then fried in dough or baked in an open- pomegranate juice is cooked with under a heavy weight. The name faced pie. Khachapuri is some- cinnamon, cloves, and a little comes from the traditional heavy times topped with a barely baked sugar until thick. skillet or tapha that is used. egg. Aficionados seek out the Matsoni: Yogurt. Georgian yogurt Tabaka is usually served with boat-shaped adzharuli khachapuri is some of the best in the world, tkemali sauce. or Adzharian cheese bread from whether made from cow’s milk or Tkemali (Prunus divaricata): a Batumi on the Black Sea coast. the even richer water buffalo milk. sour plum that grows throughout Kharcho: a thick soup made from Matsoni is never gelatinous and is Georgia. The word also refers to beef, lamb, chicken, or sometimes pleasantly tart. the sauce made from this plum, vegetable stock. All versions Mchadi: Western Georgian which is used as a seasoning in contain a special mixture of the corncakes, traditionally baked in soups, stews, and vegetable spice blend khmeli-suneli, a liberal a ketsi or clay pot over an open dishes and also as a condiment for dose of herbs, and a souring agent fire. Because mchadi are bland grilled meats. Tkemali sauce is such as fruit leather, tkemali and dry, they are perfect for piquant yet slightly sweet. It is sauce, or vinegar. sopping up sauce from flavorsome served fresh or preserved for stews. winter keeping. Khashi: Georgia’s best-loved soup, made from tripe. It is Mkhali (or pkhali): a vegetable Tklapi: dried fruit leather, made traditionally eaten early in the puree to which herbs and ground by boiling tkemali or sour plums,
19 then pureeing them and spreading Georgian.” Annual of the Society Volkova and Dzhhavakhishvili the puree into a sheet to dry. for the Study of Caucasia 1(1989): 1982 Tklapi is an excellent souring 22-40. N. G. Volkova and G.N. agent for soups and stews — less Dzhhavakhishvili. Bytovaia Kakabadze 1984 astringent than vinegar, more kul’tura Gruzii XIX-XX vekov: flavorful than tomatoes. Fruit Alde Kakabadze. Sovremennaia traditsii i innovatsii (The culture of leather is also made from sweeter gruzinskaia keramika (Contem- everyday life of Georgia in the 19th fruits like apricots and peaches, porary Georgian ceramics). and 20th centuries: traditions and in which case it is intended for Moscow: Sovetskii khudozhnik, innovations). Moscow: Nauka, eating out of hand rather than 1984. 1982. cooking. Khromchenko 1987 References S. M. Khromchenko. E. Akhvle- Recipes Allen 1971 diani: Izbrannye proizvedeniia. Moscow: Sovetskii khudozhnik, Khachapuri W.E.D. Allen. A History of the 2 cups unbleached white flour nd 1987. Georgian People, 2 ed. New York: 1/2 teaspoon salt Barnes and Noble, 1971. Kikvidze 1988 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) cold Burney and Lang 1972 Kikvidze, Ia.A. Zemledelie i butter, cut in pieces Charles Burney and David Marshall zemledel’cheskii kul’t v drevnei 2 eggs Lang. The Peoples of the Hills: Gruzii: po arkheologicheskim 1/4 cup plain yogurt Ancient Ararat and Caucasus. New materialam (Agriculture and the 1 1/4 pounds mixed Muenster and York: Praeger, 1972. agricultural cult in ancient Georgia Havarti cheeses according to archaeological 1 egg yolk, beaten Dzhikia 1978 materials). Tbilisi: Metsniereba, Put the flour and salt in a medium N. P. Dzhikia. Kul’tura pitaniia 1988. bowl and cut in the butter until the gruzinskikh gortsev (The food mixture resembles coarse culture of Georgian hill peoples). Kuznetsov 1987 cornmeal. Beat 1 egg and stir in Tbilisi: Metsniereba, 1978. Erast Kuznetsov. Niko Pirosmani. the yogurt, then add to the flour Chardin 1689 Leningrad: Aurora Art Publishers, mixture. Form into a ball and chill 1983. Chardin, Sir John. The Travels of for 1 hour. Sir John Chardin into Persia and Mars and Altman 1987 Grate the cheeses coarsely, beat the other egg, and stir it into the the East-Indies, Through the Black Gerald Mars and Yochanan cheese. Set aside. Sea and the Country of Colchis. Altman, “Alternative mechanism of London, 1689. distribution in a Soviet economy.” Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Grease Chelebi 1834 In: Constructive Drinking: a large baking sheet. On a floured board roll the dough to a rectangle Chelebi, Evliya. Narrative of Perspectives on Drink from about 12 x 17 inches. Trim the Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa Anthropology, ed. Mary Douglas. edges. Spread the cheese mixture in the Seventeenth Century. Trans. Cambridge: Cambridge University on half the dough and then fold The Ritter Joseph von Hammer. Press, 1987: 270-279. the other half over to enclose it, London, 1834. Pokhlebkin 1978 sealing and crimping the edges. Chiaureli 1984 Pokhlebkin, V.V. Nationional’nye Transfer the bread to the baking V. C h i a u r e l i . Gruzinskoe vino kukhni nashikh narodov (National sheet and brush with beaten egg (Georgian wine). Tbilisi: Merani, cuisines of our peoples). Moscow: yolk. Bake for 50 minutes, or until 1984. Pishchevaia promyshlennost’, browned. The bread is best served Dumas 1859 1978. slightly warm, cut into small squares. Dumas, Alexandre. Le Caucase; Sulakvelidze 1959 Serves 12 to 15. depuis Prométhée jusqu’à Tamara Sulakvelidze. Gruzinskie Chamyll. Paris, 1859. bliuda (Georgian dishes). Tbilisi: Gudiashvili 1984 Gruzinskoe ministerstvo torgovli, Beet Puree (Charkhlis mkhali) Lado Gudiashvili. Edited by Moisei 1959. 1 pound beets Kagan. Leningrad: Aurora Art 1/2 cup shelled walnuts Suny 1988 Publishers, 1984. 3 garlic cloves, peeled Ronald Grigor Suny. The Making 1/2 teaspoon salt Holisky 1989 of Modern Georgia. Bloomington, 1/2 cup chopped cilantro Dee Ann Holisky. “The Rules of the IN: Indiana University Press, 1/2 cup chopped parsley Supra or How to Drink in 1988. Freshly ground black pepper
20 1/4 teaspoon dried summer Tkemali 1/2 cup shelled walnuts savory 1 1/2 pounds plums (not too sweet 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander or ripe) 1 1/2 cups finely chopped cilantro seed 1/4 cup water 1 1/2 cups finely chopped mixed 1 or 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar 3/4 teaspoon whole coriander parsley, dill, basil, tarragon (to taste) seed 1/2 cup finely chopped scallions Bake the unpeeled beets at 375ºF. 1 teaspoon fennel seed (including green part) for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until tender. 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon (If you are short of time, the beets roughly chopped juice may be boiled, but their flavor will 1 teaspoon cayenne 1 1/2 teaspoons salt not be as good.) While the beets 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper are roasting, in a food processor 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh Dash cayenne grind together the walnuts, garlic, mint 1 cup walnut oil and salt. Add the cilantro and 1/3 cup finely minced cilantro Soak the apricot leather in the parsley and continue grinding to Cut the plums in half and remove boiling water until soft; stir until a make a fine paste. Transfer to a the pits. Place in a saucepan with puree is formed. bowl. the water and bring to a boil. Grind the walnuts and the garlic When the beets are soft, peel Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes, together in a food processor, being them and finely grate them in the or until soft. careful not to grind them to a food processor. In a medium bowl In a mortar with a pestle, pound sticky paste. Next, add the apricot mix together the grated beets and together the coriander seed, puree, the herbs, scallions, lemon the ground walnut mixture, then fennel seed, garlic, cayenne, and juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne, stir in the remaining ingredients. salt to make a fine paste. and blend together. In a slow, Keep tasting, as the amount of steady stream, while the motor is When the plums are soft, put them vinegar needed will depend on the running, add the walnut oil to form through a food mill and return to sweetness of the beets. The a thick sauce. a clean pan. Bring to a boil and mkhali should be slightly tart. cook over medium heat, stirring, Allow to rest at room temperature Chill in the refrigerator for at least for 3 minutes. Stir in the ground for a couple of hours before 2 hours, but bring to room spices and continue cooking until serving. This sauce will keep, temperature before serving, the mixture thickens slightly, tightly covered and refrigerated, mounded on a plate and cross- another 5 minutes or so. Stir in for several days. Bring to room hatched on top with a knife. the minced mint and cilantro and temperature before using. Serves 6. remove from the heat. Pour into a Makes 2 cups. jar while still hot. Either cool to Basturma room temperature and keep in the Article and recipes adapted from 2 cups pomegranate juice refrigerator, or seal the jar for Darra Goldstein, The Georgian 1/4 cup olive oil longer storage. Feast: The Vibrant Culture and 1 teaspoon salt Makes 1 pint. Savory Food of the Republic of Freshly ground black pepper Georgia (Berkeley: University of 1 bay leaf, crushed Cilantro Sauce (Kindzis California Press, 1999). Used by 2 garlic cloves, peeled and satsebela) permission. crushed 2 ounces apricot fruit leather 2 pounds boneless shoulder or leg 1/4 cup boiling water of lamb, cut into 2-inch cubes One 1-pound eggplant, salted, drained, and parboiled (op- tional) Mix together the pomegranate juice, olive oil, salt, pepper to taste, bay leaf, and garlic. Marinate the lamb overnight in this mixture. The following day, place the meat on skewers, alternating Photo © 1969 Daniel C. Waugh with eggplant cubes, if desired. Grill over hot coals for about 10 Ananuri, on the minutes. Serve with tkemali or Georgian Military cilantro sauce. Highway north of Serves 4 to 6. Tbilisi
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