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SEPTEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES © DONALD LANDWEHRLE/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK DONALD ©

TIMELESS LANDSCAPES, HOSPITABLE INNS, FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE COVER PHOTOGRAPH Stowe, Vermont, surrounded by the splendor of fall Meandering Through Idyllic Vermont THIS MONTH New Road Trip anding at Burlington airport, I lovely because of constant preservation A leisurely drive through the peaceful Vermont realized to my surprise that I had efforts by succeeding generations. countryside brought me to notable restaurants, not set foot in Vermont for more Having picked up a rental car, we set L fascinating museums, venerable cheese dairies than five years. Shortly after my last off on a counterclockwise route. Seventy- and thriving distilleries...... 1-7 visit, in August 2011, the state suffered five percent of Vermont is densely forest-  Online: Vermont Touring Itinerary the onslaught of Hurricane Irene. What ed, and the population of approximately began as a characteristic coastal hurri- 625,000 is the second lowest of the 50 San Francisco Surprises cane veered into New England and states, so between the towns there are As well as an unexpectedly fine boutique hotel, unleashed the worst meteorological long stretches of nearly deserted road my trip yielded an opportunity to visit the newly assault since the infamous storm of 1938. and tracts of verdant hilly countryside. revitalized Museum of Modern Art...... 8-11 Rivers overflowed, washing out bridges A hundred miles due south of Burl-  Online: San Francisco Walking Itinerary and roads. But, with predictable Yankee ington, the town of Manchester offers a grit, Vermonters undertook repairs, fascinating mix of classic homes, plus the Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report and it is now impossible to tell that such historic Hildene estate, home to Robert devastation ever took place. Vermont may Todd Lincoln, oldest surviving son of Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays be the embodiment of an idealized New Abraham Lincoln and a man who served full rate for all lodging, meals and related England, with its white clapboard houses, as head of the Pullman Company for many travel expenses. Since the inception of sky-piercing steeples and stately Greek years. A wealth of retail establishments this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a Revival public buildings, but it is impor- includes the Orvis flagship store and completely independent basis. tant to remember that the towns are so numerous high-end outlet shops as well

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Exterior, and details of our suite at The Reluctant Panther, Manchester / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

as one-of-a-kind galleries and the splen- burned to the ground due to faulty wiring. decorated with a mix of antiques and did independent Northshire Bookstore. Completely restored, it reopened just in contemporary furniture. A cozy lounge On this occasion we opted to stay at time for the Great Recession. The current contained a comfortable couch that faced the intriguingly named The Reluctant owner Peter Sharp purchased the prop- a gas fireplace and a small writing desk. Panther. The sobriquet is attributed to the erty in 2010, bringing to it three genera- The spacious bedroom, painted a cheer- hesitation of the rare Vermont mountain tions of hotel expertise, as members of his ful hue of yellow, came with its own gas lions — known locally as “catamounts” — family have owned, at various times, The fireplace, sofa, chest of drawers and large to approach human habitations. Until 1897 Carlyle and the Stanhope in New York City closet. The bath was appointed with both the site was home to the Green Mountain and the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles. a soaking tub and a walk-in shower. Tavern, once a favorite of Ethan Allen and Set on a corner just off the main thor- Breakfast is an important part of the his Green Mountain Boys, and it became oughfare, the inn comprises a handsome Panther stay, and it is served in a dining The Reluctant Panther in the 1960s. In main building, with light yellow clapboard room with coffered ceilings, generously late 2005, a Texan couple purchased the and gabled roofs, plus two adjacent spaced tables and a view out to gardens inn and, almost exactly one month later, it structures. Together the three buildings arranged around a small pond with a house the inn’s 20 rooms. Walking into fountain and a wooden bridge. In addition a reception area decorated with lovely to country-fresh eggs, daily specials make CANADA custom-painted murals, we were warmly ordering an enjoyable dilemma — except (QUEBEC) greeted by the manager, who subsequently for the day when irresistible blueberry VERMONT proved to be a congenial presence and an pancakes appeared. 0 50 MI invaluable source of information. Like all One evening, we made for the snug 0 50 KM of the rooms, our suite was individually little bar situated just before the entrance

BURLINGTON 7 Lake STOWE Entrance, and our room at the Four Columns Inn, Newfane / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Champlain 8 MONTPELIER SHELBURNE 6 WAITSFIELD 5 WARREN

GREEN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL F OREST onnecticut R. BARNARD C 1 The Reluctant Panther 4 3 SHIRE 2 Four Columns Inn WOODSTOCK 3 Woodstock Inn & Resort HAMP 4 Twin Farms W 5 The Inn at

the Round Barn Farm NE MANCHESTER 6 The Pitcher Inn 1 7 Edson Hill GREEN NEWFANE MOUNTAIN 2 8 The Inn at NATIONAL Shelburne Farms F OREST BRATTLEBORO NEW YORK

MASSACHUSETTS

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 Crowley’s medium sharp to the dining room. There we enjoyed a it closed in 2013. Recently, the inn and its conversation with local couples — the 138 acres of grounds caught the eye of restaurant enjoys a high reputation in Charles Mallory, CEO of Delamar hotels this part of Vermont — before going in in Connecticut — a company with luxury for an excellent meal. I loved the starter properties in Greenwich, Southport and of fonduta with rock shrimp, artichokes, shortly, West Hartford. All 16 rooms have baby spinach and brioche crostini in been fully renovated, and a new gym and a Chardonnay-fontina sauce. This was spa now complement the outdoor pool. followed by a superb rib eye from a Today, the main building lies just ARTISANAL PRODUCERS butcher owned by proprietor Peter Sharp. behind the original four-columned struc- The Reluctant Panther is a truly ture. At the front desk, an attentive young charming inn with a fine staff, sophisti- woman greeted us and then helped us with On the Cheese Trail cated lodgings and a terrific restaurant. our luggage. “I think you’ll like this room,” Just so long as you don’t expect a full- she said, as she opened the door to our have long admired Vermont’s cheeses, so on service luxury hotel, you are likely to be suite. We agreed. The spacious bedroom, I our trip I sought out some of the local dairies. The Vermont Cheese Council has 50 members extremely content. with a high ceiling beneath a peaked roof, who make more than 150 kinds of cheese from led to an alcove sitting area furnished with cow, sheep and goat milk. It publishes a useful idding farewell to Manchester, we a mix of antique and modern furniture, pamphlet with a directory of members. B headed east for an easy 35-mile which in turn extended onto a private deck drive to Newfane, just north of the thriv- overlooking the pool and gardens. The Consider Bardwell Farm ing town of Brattleboro, a lively place of gentle blue of the walls made for a restful The name is not a plea for business; rather, it restaurants, shops and galleries that fill its atmosphere. In the large adjoining bath, is the name of the man who founded the first wealth of old brick buildings. Arriving in a Jacuzzi tub proved welcome at the end Vermont cheesemaking cooperative in 1864. Newfane, we found a classic New England of the day, while the walk-in shower got Russell Glover and Angela Miller are keeping the tradition vibrant. My favorites from the current green surrounded by a cluster of white the morning off to an invigorating start. portfolio are the Rupert, an aged cow cheese that buildings that included a Greek Revival The inn’s public areas have been can be likened to Gruyère, and the Manchester, a county courthouse, a church topped with attractively decorated with the work of raw goat Tomme with an earthy, nutty character. a heaven-ascending spire, a meeting hall local artists. In the reception area, I was 1333 Route 153, West Pawlet. and the handsome Four Columns Inn. particularly taken with a whimsical mural In 1965, a French couple purchased by Lisa Adams depicting the Newfane Grafton Village Cheese the property and, without knowing it at area. Another mural by the same artist Begun as a cooperative in 1892 in the pretty the time, created a restaurant that prefig- appears in the cozy bar, which attracts village whose name it bears, Grafton has been ured the contemporary farm-to-table numerous local folk with its large selec- relocated just north of Brattleboro with a factory, but also with an extensive tasting room and gift concept: Chickens and pigs were raised tion of craft beers and ciders. People shop. Grafton makes several fine aged sheep on-site, game birds were sourced from throughout the area also flock to the milk cheeses, but I remain partial to the aged local hunters, a vegetable garden was in-house Artisan Restaurant, with its cheddars. Make sure to try the Queen of Quality, planted and trout ponds were installed. large brick fireplace, beamed ceilings, an artisanally crafted clothbound cheddar (not To the regret of many, the couple sold the wide-planked floors and Windsor chairs. available commercially). 400 Linden Street, inn in 1981, and, after a series of owners, Honoring the inn’s heritage, chef Frederic Brattleboro.

Artisan Restaurant at the Four Columns Inn / © KELLY FLETCHER Crowley Cheese I first tasted this cheese many years ago, and then lost track of it, so I went in search. Nestled on a hillside, the Crowley Factory dates to 1882. The cheese is smooth and creamy, similar to young cheddar but without the tang. That said, after sampling several varieties, I preferred my original favorite: the medium-sharp iteration. 14 Crowley Lane, Mount Holly.

Vermont Shepherd One of the oldest sheep milk dairies in the country, Vermont Shepherd consistently garners In 1965, a French couple accolades for cheeses of great distinction. The purchased the property and, without production is small, but worth seeking out. I am a “ knowing it at the time, created fan of the signature Verano, a creamy cheese with a restaurant that prefigured the a hint of sweetness. 281 Patch Farm Road, Putney. contemporary farm-to-table concept.  Online: More Vermont Cheese

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Manor House, lounge, pond, and our room at Edson Hill, Stowe / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

LOCAL SPIRITS Kieffer sources as many of the ingredients couple arrived in the neighboring room. Vermont Distilleries as he can locally. I especially enjoyed a Within moments we had learned more starter of asparagus and spring pea soup, about their private lives than we would efore we left on our journey, a friend followed by a Berkshire pork chop grilled ever have wished, and the next afternoon Bremarked, somewhat sarcastically, “I’ll bet with smoked bacon, prunes, mushrooms we shared in significant parts of a movie you even manage to turn up a distillery or two.” and fingerling potatoes, all with a just- that the couple in the other adjoining I didn’t — I turned up several. The state currently sweet cider glaze. room found raucously amusing. It’s a has 19 in operation. The Four Columns pulls off the trick shame, because we liked the inn and the Caledonia Spirits of updating the traditional with skill and staff. We are always glad to get to know This fine producer turns out three bottlings: two style. My only reservation is that the fellow guests when we travel, but not to gins and a vodka. I liked both gins: Barr Hill and service can be uneven. A couple of the the extent that the lack of soundproofing Tom Cat. Unusually, the latter is aged in charred staff members might usefully add a little here made possible. oak barrels, which gives it an amber hue and notes starch to their performance, and someone of spice and honey. 46 Log Yard Road, Hardwick. should point out to one otherwise charm- he next leg of our trip took us as far Saxtons River Distillery ing young man that the richness of the T north in Vermont as we would go — Vermont friends alerted me to this fine producer. English language permits substitutes for to the renowned Stowe ski area. I have Saxtons River embraces the maple heritage of the word “awesome.” long searched for a place in Vermont Vermont, incorporating it into every product but snow country that I could recommend one (a coffee liqueur called Perc). The Sapling rom Newfane, our route took us 104 to Hideaway Report readers, but until Maple Liqueur is sweet and intense. I also liked the F miles north to the little town of Waits- now it has proved elusive. Edson Hill Sapling Maple Bourbon and have since used it for field, which is adjacent to the Mad River began in 1941 as the private getaway making a Manhattan. 485 West River Road (Route Glen ski area. Everything my research for a Newport, Rhode Island man whose 30), Brattleboro. turned up on The Inn at the Round Barn family had made its fortune in Colorado Smugglers’ Notch Distillery Farm had tantalized me, especially the mining. Fast forward to 2014, when four This producer offers vodka, gin, bourbon and an distinctive architecture. Driving up the people who knew Edson Hill from Stowe unusual wheat whiskey. The bourbon won me hill from town, we could see the impres- vacations — Susan Stacy, her husband over, but the real winner turned out to be the sive round barn itself. Built in 1910, this Tom Shanahan and brothers Jim and Bill Litigation Wheat Whiskey, made from a mix of served as the centerpiece of a dairy Goldenberg — purchased the property wheat and malted barley and aged in charred farm, which ceased operations in 1969. with the goal of making it into an updated white oak casks. 276 Main Street, Jeffersonville. In 1986, new owners bought the property, New England inn. Stacy’s Boston design Stonecutter Spirits transforming it into a bed-and-breakfast. firm, Stacy Gauthier, did the interior work. This small distiller currently sells two products, Today, the 12-room inn incorporates the Passing through the main gate and Single Barrel Gin and Heritage Cask Whiskey. barn, stables and the original farmhouse, following the long approach road, we Another, Small Batch Whiskey, is aging for release all set amidst 245 rolling acres. passed a red barn and horses grazing in 2019. Aged in former bourbon barrels, the Our room in the former stables in paddocks beside a shimmering pond. gin stands as one of the most distinctive spirits I’ve tasted in some time. 1197 Exchange Street, exuded charm with a slanted wooden ceil- The 23 rooms of Edson Hill are divided Middlebury. ing, ornate period wallpaper and terrific between the so-called Manor House — views of the meadows beyond. The bath with brick walls, gray clapboard siding,  Online: More Vermont Distilleries was small, however. All was well, until a white trim and gabled roofs — and four

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 The Inn at Shelburne Farms, and its garden overlooking Lake Champlain / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Activities at Shelburne Farms include a dip in Lake Champlain, “ kayaking, canoeing, tennis and hiking on the 10 miles of trails.

COLLECTIONS guesthouses situated farther up the hill. give both hikers and mountain bikers We were allocated to a guesthouse, and I a wealth of options. In winter, cross- Distinctive Museums felt a pang of disappointment at not being country skiing, snowshoeing, sledding in the Manor House with its paneled walls and ice skating are available. And for Shelburne Museum and imposing staircase. The guesthouses downhill skiing, the slopes of Stowe are Just a short drive from The Inn at Shelburne have pleasant but undistinguished exteri- just minutes away. Farms, the Shelburne Museum was founded in ors. Inside, however, our large room was I tend to approach places like 1947 by Electra Havemeyer Webb, a pioneer in beautifully done with paneled walls, dark Edson Hill — a traditional property the appreciation of American folk art. While she wood floors, a white carpet and a beamed given a contemporary makeover — with initially focused on gathering paintings, quilts, textiles and furniture, Webb also assembled ceiling. An alcove came with an ample apprehension: I’ve seen too many fine tableware, waterfowl decoys, carriages and desk and a woodburning fireplace (17 of hotels desecrated by insensitive and other artifacts from daily life. In addition, she put the rooms have them), and a large bay inappropriate modernization. But, Edson together a remarkable assortment of original window granted an impressive view of the Hill is an exception. structures that includes a meeting house, a mountains. The spacious bath provided lighthouse and the “Round Barn,” all of which double vanities, a walk-in shower and he last stage of our trip brought us are spread across 45 acres in a town-like setting. heated floors. T full-circle: Shelburne lies 43 miles Most unexpected was the Arnold Circus Parade, a The lounge in the Manor House southwest of Stowe and 7 miles south of 500-foot-long assemblage of figurines depicting displayed a sophisticated blend of tradi- Burlington. With the $10 million that she the animals, clowns and wagons that would have tional and contemporary design, with inherited from her father in 1885, Lila been part of a circus in days gone by. A specially honey-hued paneled walls, white carpet- Vanderbilt Webb and her husband William designed curved building houses this delightful work. Electra Webb accurately described the ing, large canvases of contemporary art Seward Webb were able to fulfill their Shelburne Museum as a “collection of collec- and both modern and antique furniture. dream of creating an agricultural estate tions.” 6000 Shelburne Road, Shelburne. Big windows flood the colorful room with that employed only the most advanced light. Just off the lounge, the dining room techniques. Having acquired 3,800 acres American Museum of Fly Fishing has windows on three sides and a stylish of land along Shelburne Point on Lake While in Manchester, I spent a pleasant interlude chandelier made of white branches and Champlain, they engaged Frederick Law at the American Museum of Fly Fishing. Located glass fixtures. There, I enjoyed a hanger Olmsted, designer of New York’s Central close to the Orvis flagship store, the museum collects, conserves and exhibits the largest group steak au poivre with wild mushrooms, Park, to oversee the landscaping of the of angling-related items in the world. Exhibits bacon, arugula, baby fingerling potatoes, estate, as well as more than 300 workers depict the developments of fly-fishing over the Bayley Hazen blue cheese (one of my to construct barns and to begin raising centuries and celebrate it not just as a sport, but Vermont favorites) and grain mustard. crops and livestock. Today, the farm as an art. Displays of reels, showing how they The cheeseboard was unusually appeal- functions as a nonprofit organization evolved over the years, utterly fascinated me, as ing and accompanied by pickled pears, dedicated to educational programs did the superbly mounted displays of flies. Also Marcona almonds and house-made focac- intended to promote environmentally of interest was a collection of equipment used cia. Downstairs, a tavern draws a lively responsible farming. by U.S. presidents from John Adams to Dwight evening crowd. The Inn at Shelburne Farms, a D. Eisenhower to George H. W. Bush. Even if your A lovely outdoor pool makes for an National Historic Landmark, was the interest in fly-fishing is casual, I highly recom- ideal spot for lounging or a refreshing couple’s original home. It comprised a mend this fascinating, well-presented museum. dip, and numerous trails on the property Shingle style cottage (“cottage” being 4070 Main Street, Manchester.

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Vermont Harper Classics

In addition to the new places I discovered on my recent trip, I heartily recommend three other properties:

Twin Farms A98 This intimate country retreat is set amid meadows and woodlands in an unspoiled valley. Hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork and American folk art adorn rustically elegant lounges, while the original barn, with its impressive raftered interior, houses the congenial library. Guests choose from 20 distinctive lodgings (including a self-contained four-suite enclave) that feature king-size feather beds and sitting areas with fireplaces that open onto screened porches. Request one of the imaginatively decorated cottages (“Log Cabin,” “Treehouse” and “Woods” are especially appealing). I have always found the restau- rant exceptional; other facilities include a spa, gym and Japanese-style soaking tubs. During the summer, you can pursue tennis, fishing and canoeing, and, during the winter, skiing. Closed late March to May.

The Pitcher Inn A95 This small, charming inn sits beside a rushing stream in Warren, a quaint village that is one hour southeast of Burlington. The 11 stylish accommodations, including a pair of two-bedroom suites, are decorated to reflect

various aspects of Vermont, with most featuring antiques, woodburning fireplaces, Jacuzzi baths and steam Farm Barn at Shelburne Farms / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER showers. Of the accommodations, “Ski,” “Lodge,” “Mountain” and “Trout” are especially charming. Public areas include a comfortable library, a creekside lounge, the cozy Tracks tavern for classic pub fare and the used in the Newport, Rhode Island first-rate restaurant275 Main, which serves locally sourced farm-to-table cuisine backed by a well-stocked sense) built in 1887 and significantly wine cellar. Activities include hiking, biking, trout fishing, golf and tennis. In winter, skiing, ice skating and enlarged a decade later. Traversing sleigh rides provide the chief recreational opportunities. the grounds on our way to The Inn gave Woodstock Inn & Resort A91 us a chance to see outlying structures This landmark resort hotel stands on the village green of Woodstock, a town often cited as one of the pret- such as the magnificent turreted Farm tiest in the United States. Much of this is due to the Rockefellers, who built the Inn. The Rockefeller family also Barn, which would not have looked out played a key role in preserving many of the town’s historic structures, and they were behind the move to bury of place on the Hogwarts campus, and all of the utility lines, preserving the rural character of the town. In the Inn itself, the 142 spacious lodgings the impressive Coach Barn, now used for range from Woodstock Kings, with sitting areas and writing desks; to spacious Main Inn Suites, with marble conferences and other gatherings. As the baths; to the Executive Suite, with a living space, dining room and kitchenette. Adding to the appeal are four road skirted Lake Champlain, The Inn dining options, the Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed golf course, tennis, pools, a gym and a spa. emerged on the rise of a hill. An imposing structure of rich red bricks, it has

HOTELS AT A GLANCE shingled roofs punctuated by dormers and towering chimneys. The Reluctant Panther A91 Inside, the house is very much as it LIKE The small sitting area (with fireplace) opposite the bar makes a delightful spot for morning coffee and the day’s was when the Webbs lived there. Reception paper. DISLIKE As is true with many bed-and-breakfasts, there is no night staff. GOOD TO KNOW The Inn has a is a book-filled office just off the Main Hall, relationship with the Hildene estate and offers admission at a significantly reduced rate. Junior Suite, $440; Deluxe Suite, $510. 39 West Road, Manchester, VT. Tel. (802) 362-2568. reluctantpanther.com and, with the assistance of a porter, we made our way up the grand staircase to the Four Columns Inn A91 second floor. Each of the 24 rooms (there LIKE The setting is captivating at any time of day due to the lovely landscaping, which is accented at night with are also four cottages on the grounds) careful lighting. DISLIKE The service in the dining room was friendly but uneven. GOOD TO KNOW The adjacent features period décor and furniture, with West Brook cottage sleeps four and has a full kitchen making it ideal for families. Woodland Room, $260; Newfane Room, $315. 21 West Street, Newfane, VT. Tel. (802) 365-7713. fourcolumnsvt.com no two being alike. The “Louis XVI Room” came with Edson Hill A90 exquisite patterned wallpaper, a rich LIKE The atmosphere of a private retreat in the busy Stowe area. DISLIKE Precious design elements, such as “Live blue carpet, painted furniture and an in the Moment” delineated in wire script on the wall of the bath. GOOD TO KNOW Stowe is full of good restaurants; ornate armoire. Large windows afforded the innkeepers can make reliable recommendations and reservations. Manor House King, $260; Fireplace King, $270. 1500 Edson Hill Road, Stowe, VT. Tel. (802) 253-7371. edsonhill.com a memorable view of Lake Champlain. Electronic devices were conspicuous The Inn at Shelburne Farms A92 by their absence, and there was no LIKE The beautiful formal gardens on the lake side of The Inn make for a delightful stroll. DISLIKE There is no air-conditioning (which was superfluous elevator. GOOD TO KNOW The Inn is only open from May to October. Farm products, notably cheeses and meats, are during our stay, but is a must for many available for sale at the shop at the entrance to the property; reception can hold those items requiring refrigeration until your departure. Tower Room, $325; Green Room, $435. 1611 Harbor Road, Shelburne, VT . Tel. (802) 985-8498. Hideaway Report readers). The bath was shelburnefarms.org on the small side, with a single pedestal

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. sink and a combined bath and shower. A Visit andrewharper.com for information on these and Twin Farms, The Pitcher Inn and Woodstock Inn & Resort. The (Rooms vary greatly in size, and five have Inn at the Round Barn Farm (87) was not up to the required standard. shared baths, so only the more expensive

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 Recommended Restaurants

Vermont’s restaurateurs display a passion for locally grown, artisanally produced ingredients. This list follows our route from Manchester to Burlington.

The Copper Grouse With dark wood floors, coffered ceiling, wainscoting and wallpapered walls, this restaurant in the new Taconic Hotel in Manchester feels like an old New England tavern — but with an up-to-date menu. Delicious dishes from our meal included a plump crab cake with a roasted poblano aioli and pineapple chutney, and grilled swordfish with a sweet potato-crab hash. The lively bar has become a favorite gathering spot in Manchester. 3835 Main Street, Manchester. Tel. (802) 362-0176.

275 Main Part of The Pitcher Inn, this is a sedate and stylish place with hardwood floors, widely spaced tables and subdued lighting. Although not from Vermont, the soft shell

Farm Barn at Shelburne Farms / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER crab with lemon brown butter, pea purée and a radish sprout salad turned out to be crisp perfection. For my main, I opted for the pan-roasted veal medallions with accommodations are recommended. The king oyster mushrooms, watercress and orzo with feta. The service is exceptional, “Yellow Room,” should be avoided, as part as is the wine list. 275 Main Street, Warren. Tel. (802) 496-6350. of it is above the kitchen.) As I explored The Inn, I discovered Plate place after place that captivated me: Wood floors, open space, a long bar and smart young staff all contributed to a lively the serene library, painted a lush shade evening of great food. My starter of a green garlic soufflé came filled with Tarentaise cheese and fiddlehead ferns. The main course of seared halibut with fingerling of jade green; the south porch, with potatoes, Swiss chard and an orange-vanilla beurre blanc impressed me for its comfortable chairs overlooking the inventiveness and for the interplay of flavors. And dessert — a Mason jar filled lawn and the lake; and the top-floor with vanilla pudding, whipped cream, chunks of bananas and Nilla wafers — was playroom, filled with giant dollhouses, a taste time machine back to childhood. 91 Main Street, Stowe. Tel. (802) 253-2691. stuffed animals and block sets, many of them dating to the early days of the Doc Ponds house. Despite the elegance of the dining This is a roadhouse in form but not essence, to which the many Mercedes and room, we opted to eat out on the terrace Porsches in the parking lot will attest. Inside it provides convivial fun, and the with its unforgettable vistas of the lake food is first rate. The Beets & Brussels salad united two of my favorite vegetables and beyond. The menu changes daily, with feta and spiced pecans, and the jerk pork chop with black beans and cabbage and many of the ingredients are sourced could not have been more succulent. 294 Mountain Road, Stowe. Tel. (802) 760-6066. from the farm. Standout dishes included a tart of pheasant’s back mushrooms with Hen of the Wood a mushroom pâté, morels and Champlain Chef Eric Warnstedt has earned a stellar reputation at this handsome restaurant Valley Creamery Triple cheese, and with a dark wood interior (he and partner William McNeil also own Doc Ponds). Shelburne lamb with couscous, sweet The menu changes frequently. Personal favorites include the hen of the woods potato purée, Swiss chard, local feta and mushroom toast with a poached egg and house-made bacon, and the rich paprika a honey-garlic demi-glace. pappardelle with braised pork, wild leek sausage and zucchini. 55 Cherry Street, Activities abound at The Inn, with Burlington. Tel. (802) 540-0534. options including a dip in Lake Champlain, plus kayaking, canoeing, tennis on the Beets & Brussels salad at Doc Ponds, and mushroom toast with a poached egg and house-made bacon at Hen of the Wood / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Har-Tru court and hiking on the 10 miles of trails. Off the estate, this region of Vermont offers numerous attractions, including the nearby Shelburne Museum (see box). In a world of look-alike resorts and hotels, The Inn at Shelburne Farms offers a truly distinctive, charming experience, very much like staying at the grand home of an old family friend who has resisted the siren call of modernity. H

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 accommodations, many original design elements have been preserved, including intricate wrought-iron windows and solid oak entry doors ornamented with brass monogrammed knobs. Our spacious and comfortable Corner Deluxe Suite came with a living area that included a dining table for six, a couch and large windows affording dramatic city views. Separated from the living room by a sliding door, the spacious bedroom was awash with natural light and provided a king-size bed, clean-lined mahogany furnishings, elegant crown moldings, chrome accents and conveniently placed outlets. The marble bath, however, was disappointing, being tiny and with barely enough space for a single vanity and a glass walk-in shower. Apparently, small baths are a drawback chiefly confined to corner rooms and suites; elsewhere they are adequate. Despite this surprising inconvenience, the staff were friendly, and room service arrived 15 minutes before the estimated time. The most impressive feature of the hotel is the dramatic Garden Court restaurant and lounge, which was desig- nated a city landmark in 1969. Originally A NEW BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND A REINVENTED CLASSIC purposed as a circular carriage entry, the lavish three-story Parisian-inspired atrium features a stained-glass dome, Savoring San Francisco marble colonnades, mirrored doors and gilded sconces. The restaurant serves a Rooftop lounge at The Battery / © MELISSA KASEMAN lavish breakfast buffet, their “City Brunch” and high tea. Elsewhere, the club-like Pied hanks to its prosperous economy, a thriving cultural scene and a prime location Piper Bar & Grill provides a casual dining within easy driving distance of mountains, wine country and the ocean, San option in a wood-paneled dining room Francisco draws around 20 million leisure visitors per year. And yet I have T highlighted by a spectacular Maxfield long been frustrated by my inability to recommend a worthwhile boutique property Parrish painting. Other amenities include to Hideaway Report readers. I currently suggest the Four Seasons and St. Regis — 277 and 260 rooms, Our bedroom, pool, and Garden Court at the Palace Hotel respectively — which are within a three-minute walk of each other. Though they are predictably elegant and comfortable hotels, they do not truly embody the qualities that make San Francisco unique. On my most recent trip, however, I stayed at three contrasting properties that did at least provide an authentic sense of place.

anting to be close to the recently the place to see and be seen for the W renovated and expanded Museum political figures and celebrities of the of Modern Art (SFMOMA), I booked a time. It is now the oldest surviving hotel room at the iconic 556-room Palace in San Francisco. Following a recent Hotel, conveniently located in a district multimillion-dollar makeover, it reopened south of Market Street and a 10-minute in late 2015 with completely refurbished walk from Union Square and 15 minutes rooms featuring new flooring and a fresh by foot from the Ferry Building. When color scheme of midnight blue, plum, it opened in 1875, this grande dame cream and charcoal. Though the revamp offered unprecedented luxury and was added contemporary amenities to the

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 a fitness center that has floor-to-ceiling windows and which faces a skylit indoor CONTEMPORARY CULTURE swimming pool. Overall, the millions lavished on the Palace have brought the The Revitalized property into the modern age without sacrificing the feeling of bygone grandeur Museum of Modern Art and timeless grace. eopened in May 2016 after a three- year, $305 million renovation, the aving received positive reports R San Francisco Museum of Modern H about the Fairmont Heritage Place, Art (SFMOMA) features a fresh, cutting- Ghirardelli Square, we headed to this edge design and houses a vast collection urban waterfront “private residence of contemporary works in all mediums. club.” Located in a brick building (the The new 235,000-square-foot expan- former Ghirardelli Chocolate factory) sion overseen by the Snøhetta archi- atop Ghirardelli Square, and a short walk tecture firm seamlessly merges with from Fisherman’s Wharf, this property the original Mario Botta-designed post- offers overnight accommodations as well modern structure. The novel building, as fractional home ownership programs. Howard Street view of the renovated SFMOMA © HENRIK KAM/COURTESY SFMOMA with its exterior of wavy cement panels, Each room provides luxury amenities towers over the original five-story brick including Bosch washer/dryers, Sub-Zero structure. Botta’s famous open-space atrium has been preserved, but the stairs wine fridges and kitchenettes with micro- leading up to the second-floor lobby have been reconfigured to allow more light to wave ovens. Open-plan dining spaces stream in through the oculus and for easier visitor circulation. At the Howard Street flow into comfortable living areas with entrance, the recently added COR-TEN steel structure “Sequence,” by Richard Serra, gas fireplaces, and some accommoda- is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling glass windows and amphitheater-style seating. tions have semi-private outdoor terraces. With the new annex, the museum’s exhibition space has more than doubled, Personal shopper and butler services and it now encompasses two gallery floors with exhibits including abstract expres- can be arranged, and complimentary car sionist and pop art displays, sizable rotating installations and Doris and Donald service is offered within a two-mile radius. Fisher’s private collection of 1,100 works on a 100-year loan. Adjacent to the Alex- Our 850-square-foot one-bedroom ander Calder: Motion Lab on the third floor is the largest living garden wall in the Residence had hand-grooved maple floors United States. and exposed brick walls, and the design When it comes time to take a break, there was minimalist with predominantly choco- are three very different culinary options. For late brown furnishings. As soon as we a quick pick-me-up, Affogato Bar on the third put down our bags, we were drawn to the floor offers artisanal Sightglass Coffee and picture windows where we admired the pastries. For light fare, Cafe 5 serves Califor- scenic bay views. Alas, when looking for nia fusion specialties either inside or out in seating in the room from which to further the relaxing sculpture garden. The culinary enjoy the sights, our options were only a highlight, however, is Michelin three-starred worn teal velvet chair with stains and an chef Corey Lee's distinctive restaurant, In Situ. uncomfortable, musty couch appointed With seven floors of exhibition space, it is not possible to comfortably tour the

/ PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER whole museum in one day. Most floors are not thematically organized; instead, you may have a Picasso that is next to a Warhol PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER and across from a Rauschenberg. If you only Guinea fowl larp Chiang Mai, and celeriac and have limited time, I recommend starting goat cheese profiteroles at In Situ with the Open Ended gallery on the second floor to see the classic favorites from the museum’s permanent collection prior to the remodel, which include Jackson Pollock’s “Guardians of the Secret” and Henri Matisse’s “Femme au Chapeau.” From there, head to Alexander Calder’s exhibit on the third floor and relax on a bench facing the living garden wall. Next, wander to the Approaching American Abstraction gallery one floor up to view works by Ells- worth Kelly, Cy Twombly and Agnes Martin. Head back down to In Situ for a delicious lunch to re-energize and rest sore feet. After lunch, I recommend one last stop on the fifth floor to see The Fisher Collection’sPop, Minimal and Figurative Art exhibit. The MOMA has revitalized the art world in the Bay Area and is now a must-see attraction on any visit to San Francisco.

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 with faded purple pillows and which was New San Francisco Restaurants unhelpfully facing the fireplace. Despite our hopes for a pleasing bedroom, it imme- an Francisco is famously an engine of culinary innovation. Superb locally diately struck us as undistinguished. The Ssourced and seasonal ingredients are a constant source of inspiration for the only decorations in the room were three gastronomically adventurous chefs that call the city home. small photographs set above the bed; other than that, the walls were unadorned The Progress and the tabletops were bare. Although Set in a former theater dating from 1911, The Progress is an innovative contemporary the king-size bed was comfortable, the restaurant with a minimalist dining room. The “create your own adventure” prix brown leather headboard was frayed, and, fixe menu comprises five one-bite amuse bouches followed by the diners’ choice of on our way to the bath, we encountered four entrée-sized family-style courses. Highlights of our small plates included a fava an unsettling stain on the carpet. While bean arancini with a light pesto drizzle, and a flaky buttermilk biscuit accompanied spacious and softly lit, the bath was not by apple-bourbon black butter. Out of the enticing array of dishes, the spicy wood- well designed. Towels were set directly on fired Spanish octopus on a bed of shaved fennel, shell bean hummus and toasted the marble vanity counter, far from the black rice was exceptional. 1525 Fillmore Street. Tel. (415) 673-1294. marble rainfall shower, and there were large empty areas that felt like they were Lazy Bear missing shelves or furniture. Diners at Lazy Bear are encouraged to mingle and socialize with other patrons and The complimentary breakfast buffet even to chat with the chefs in the open kitchen. In an atmospheric second-floor was also underwhelming. The options lounge, we were offered five appetizers accompanied by Champagne and craft were limited, the egg wraps were not cocktails. Afterward we were ushered downstairs to one of two long wooden tables. replenished and Mrs. Harper’s bagel Highlights of our multicourse feast included Dungeness crab with snap pea, avocado, was stale. However, there was a spacious charred cucumber and mint, and a halibut plate accompanied by crawfish and crisp terrace adjoining the breakfast room summer squash. Guests can opt for a wine pairing to accompany their meal. The that proved to be a pleasant place to eat. service was professional, but since all diners are served the same dish at the same There is no on-site restaurant for lunch time, it can feel a little rushed. 3416 19th Street. Tel. (415) 874-9921. or dinner, but room service arrives from Lord Stanley nearby restaurants in Ghirardelli Square. The hotel has a 24-hour fitness room Recently awarded a Michelin star, Lord Stanley in the Russian Hill District offers available for guests. sophisticated European-influenced cuisine in a light-flooded two-level space. Though there is an à la carte menu, I highly recommend the prix fixe tasting menu The Fairmont Heritage Place might and additional wine pairings. We relished a delicious starter of crisp cabbage with conceivably be of interest to families who house buttermilk and uni bottarga, and a main of wagyu beef with a potato cake are looking for above-average ameni- and red wine jus. Our peach Melba-inspired dessert with verbena ice cream and ties with an exceptional view of Alca- milk crumb was outstanding. 2065 Polk Street. Tel. (415) 872-5512. traz, Angel Island and Sausalito, or it might prove adequate for those seeking In Situ proximity to local attractions such as Overseen by three-star chef Corey Lee, In Situ is the new culinary gem at the Museum the museums and farmers’ market at of Modern Art. In a sleek, light-filled space, the rotating à la carte menus exactly Fort Mason, the Marina District with reproduce the signature dishes of over 80 iconic chefs from around the world its excellent restaurants and the bike/ allowing visitors to experience the gastronomic achievements of luminaries such pedestrian paths that run between the as Alice Waters, Thomas Keller and Michel Guérard. We sampled dishes including Bay and Golden Gate bridges. Otherwise brown oyster stew (originally by Sean Brock of Husk in Charleston), guinea fowl larp it is not recommended. Chiang Mai (David Thompson, Nahm, Bangkok), and spicy pork sausage rice cakes (David Chang, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, New York City). 151 Third Street. Tel. (415) 941-6050. rs. Harper and I checked out a day M early and switched to The Battery Sampling of dishes at The Progress, and seared halibut with pole beans at Lord Stanley hotel, where we had a very different experience. Set in a private members- only club in the Financial District, where hotel guests are considered resident members during their stay and have complimentary access to all facilities, The Battery proved to be a fine boutique property. The 58,000-square-foot building was formerly a marble-cutting factory and now encompasses an expansive bar/ lounge, 14 guest accommodations, a large PROGRESS PHOTO: © ED ANDERSON / LORD STANLEY PHOTO: CHEFS STAR © ANTOINETTE BRUNO

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 The Garden Bar, hot tub, bath, and details of our Deluxe Room at The Battery fitness area and a spa that has a steam room, a sauna and an oversized hot tub. A brick-walled restaurant overseen by chef Nicolai Lipscomb features a rustic- chic décor with tall wood columns, comfortable studded chairs, oval mirrors and some rather grand framed portraits. Though the seasonal menu is extensive, there are several better dining options nearby, including Quince, Piperade and Boulevard. The interior design of The Battery features baroque candelabras, a suspended steel-and-glass staircase, well-curated modern art and a mix of antique and modern furnishings. A dimly lit library contains a seating area with a nautical theme and shelves stocked with books that are recommended by members. Guest and member privacy is protected with a strict no-photo policy, and cellphone use is not permitted in public areas, though there are private call booths tucked into corners throughout the hotel. To reach our stylish Deluxe Room on the third floor, we rode a dramatic glass elevator overlooking an enclosed garden lounge. The graciously appointed accommodations sported a handsome décor with hardwood floors, light gray walls, a soft leather chair and a comfortable bed backed by a tan headboard. A corner bar was well-stocked with high-end liquors and locally sourced snacks. The bath came with a frosted-glass walk-in shower and a separate freestanding eggshell soaking tub. A booklet in the room highlighted the rotating exhibitions and featured events at the hotel.

A 6,200-square-foot rooftop pent- ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER / SPA: © DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN / GARDEN: © MELISSA KASEMAN house includes a living room with floor- to-ceiling windows, a fireplace, a Jacuzzi, HOTELS AT A GLANCE a kitchen and a patio that itself features a 14-seat outdoor dining table and Palace Hotel A90 LIKE The fresh, contemporary in-room style; naturally lit swimming pool; The Garden Court’s intricately adorned panoramic views of the Transamerica atrium. DISLIKE Extremely small bath; lack of fine-dining restaurant for dinner. GOOD TO KNOW SF City Pyramid and the Bay Bridge. Though Guides offers free historical walking tours of the Palace Hotel and its surrounding neighborhood (sfcityguides. the staff seemed a little too pleased with org). Corner Deluxe Room, $680. 2 New Montgomery Street, San Francisco, CA. Tel. (415) 512-1111. sfpalace.com themselves at times, overall the service was courteous, efficient and helpful. The Battery A96 I highly recommend joining the daily LIKE Delicious breakfast; accommodating staff; expansive penthouse with scenic rooftop patio; rotating art exhibits. DISLIKE Dimly lit library unsuitable for reading; downstairs lobby-lounge can be a bit “scene-y” after tour, which provides an informative 10 p.m. GOOD TO KNOW The chic Musto Bar is a speakeasy hidden behind a bookcase and accessed by a secret run-through of the current art exhibition lever. Courtyard Room, $845; Battery Suite, $1,100. 717 Battery Street, San Francisco, CA. Tel. (415) 230-8000. as well as the history of the building. In thebatterysf.com many ways, The Battery proved to be the preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. San Francisco hideaway that I have been A Visit andrewharper.com for information on these and The St. Regis (93) and the Four Seasons (91). The Fairmont Heritage Place, Ghirardelli Square (86) was not up to the required standard. searching for all these years. H

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 2016 ANNUAL READER SURVEY The Results Are In

ver the years, Hideaway Report readers have Odisplayed intense loyalty to their favorite hotels and resorts. Each time the annual Reader Survey is compiled, I see new entries — very often properties that I have reviewed in the previous 12 months — but a flock of familiar names returns with the reassuring reliability of swallows in springtime. For an astonishing eight years in a row, the Post Ranch Inn atop Big Sur was voted your No. 1 U.S. Hideaway. This year it Auberge du Soleil / © TRINETTE REED was finally dethroned, but only to No. 2, having Readers’ Top 20 Hideaways (Hotels and resorts with 50 or fewer rooms) been replaced by the Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley. Your favorite International Hideaway UNITED STATES INTERNATIONAL of 2015, Otahuna Lodge in New Zealand, was similarly demoted by a single place thanks to Auberge du Soleil Aman Venice the popularity of Aman Venice. But, The Lowell 1 Rutherford, California 1 Venice, Hotel in New York topped the City Hotel listing, Post Ranch Inn Otahuna Lodge just as it did 12 months ago. For more than 20 Big Sur, California Christchurch, New Zealand 2 2 years, Aman resorts have featured prominently Calistoga Ranch The Meridian Club in the Survey, and this time around is no excep- 3 Calistoga, California 3 Pine Cay, Turks & Caicos tion. Both Amangiri in Utah and Amangani in The Inn at Little Washington Abbaye de la Bussière Wyoming made the Top 20 U.S. Hideaways, while 4 Washington, Virginia 4 La Bussière-sur-Ouche, the new Aman Tokyo is already at No. 11 on the San Ysidro Ranch Eden Rock City Hotels list. The 2016 Survey also illustrates 5 Santa Barbara, California 5 St. Jean Bay, St. Barths a consistent preference for Four Seasons hotels, Amangiri Château Saint-Martin & Spa with Four Seasons Maui at Wailea and Four 6 Canyon Point, Utah 6 Vence, France Seasons Hualalai each appearing in four different award categories. Although some familiar Amangani &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge 7 Jackson, Wyoming 7 Ngorongoro Conservation Area, European names are absent this year, despite recent terrorist atrocities and the ongoing Syrian Little Palm Island Algodon Mansion refugee crisis, Europe remains the region of the 8 Little Torch Key, Florida 8 Buenos Aires, world where you are most interested to travel. Lake Placid Lodge Amandari No fewer than 75 percent of respondents said Lake Placid, New York Bali, 9 9 that they hoped to cross the Atlantic during Twin Farms Ballyfin 2016, with Italy, France and Great Britain being 10 Barnard, Vermont 10 County Laois, the three most favored destinations. Elsewhere, L'Auberge Carmel Jumby Bay you identified , , New Zealand 11 Carmel-by-the-Sea, California 11 Jumby Bay Island, and Argentina as countries of particular allure. Jenny Lake Lodge Abu Camp And, despite the prevailing global uncertainty, 40 12 Moose, Wyoming 12 Okavango Delta, Botswana percent of readers intend to travel more than in Rancho Valencia Château Eza 2015. For a comprehensive version of the Reader 13 Rancho Santa Fe, California 13 Eze Village, France Survey, accompanied by extensive illustration, visit andrewharper.com. Safe travels for 2016 The Lodge at Sea Island Amanyara and, who knows, perhaps our paths may cross! 14 St. Simons Island, Georgia 14 Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Triple Creek Ranch Castello del Nero 15 Darby, Montana 15 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Italy Cavas Wine Lodge 16 Lenox, Massachusetts 16 Mendoza, Argentina The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly Farmhouse Inn Huka Lodge by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 17 Forestville, California 17 Taupo, New Zealand 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew The White Barn Inn Belmond Hotel Caruso Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or Kennebunk Beach, Maine , Italy (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. SUBSCRIBER: If the Post 18 18 Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, Old Monterey Inn Blanket Bay we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected Monterey, California Glenorchy, New Zealand address within one year. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. 19 19 CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights The Point Petit St. Vincent reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means 20 Saranac Lake, New York 20 St. Vincent & the Grenadines is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell  Online: City Hotels; Beach, Spa, Food & Wine, Golf, and Family Resorts; Safari Lodges & Camps; Cruise Lines Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu It’s a calm breath. A warm smile.

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