It's Private Air Travel, Reimagined. It's a Belief Rooted in Service, Peace And
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SEPTEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES It’s private air travel, reimagined. It’s a belief rooted in service, peace and comfort. It’s business. It’s pleasure. It’s simplicity. It’s luxury. It’s buttoned up. It’s relaxed. It’s quiet. It’s confident. It’s peace of mind. Knowing that you’re top of mind. This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. SEPTEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES © DONALD LANDWEHRLE/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK DONALD © TIMELESS LANDSCAPES, HOSPITABLE INNS, FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE COVER PHOTOGRAPH Stowe, Vermont, surrounded by the splendor of fall Meandering Through Idyllic Vermont THIS MONTH New England Road Trip anding at Burlington airport, I lovely because of constant preservation A leisurely drive through the peaceful Vermont realized to my surprise that I had efforts by succeeding generations. countryside brought me to notable restaurants, not set foot in Vermont for more Having picked up a rental car, we set L fascinating museums, venerable cheese dairies than five years. Shortly after my last off on a counterclockwise route. Seventy- and thriving distilleries. .............................. 1-7 visit, in August 2011, the state suffered five percent of Vermont is densely forest- Online: Vermont Touring Itinerary the onslaught of Hurricane Irene. What ed, and the population of approximately began as a characteristic coastal hurri- 625,000 is the second lowest of the 50 San Francisco Surprises cane veered into New England and states, so between the towns there are As well as an unexpectedly fine boutique hotel, unleashed the worst meteorological long stretches of nearly deserted road my trip yielded an opportunity to visit the newly assault since the infamous storm of 1938. and tracts of verdant hilly countryside. revitalized Museum of Modern Art. ........... 8-11 Rivers overflowed, washing out bridges A hundred miles due south of Burl- Online: San Francisco Walking Itinerary and roads. But, with predictable Yankee ington, the town of Manchester offers a grit, Vermonters undertook repairs, fascinating mix of classic homes, plus the Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report and it is now impossible to tell that such historic Hildene estate, home to Robert devastation ever took place. Vermont may Todd Lincoln, oldest surviving son of Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays be the embodiment of an idealized New Abraham Lincoln and a man who served full rate for all lodging, meals and related England, with its white clapboard houses, as head of the Pullman Company for many travel expenses. Since the inception of sky-piercing steeples and stately Greek years. A wealth of retail establishments this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a Revival public buildings, but it is impor- includes the Orvis flagship store and completely independent basis. tant to remember that the towns are so numerous high-end outlet shops as well Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Exterior, and details of our suite at The Reluctant Panther, Manchester / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER as one-of-a-kind galleries and the splen- burned to the ground due to faulty wiring. decorated with a mix of antiques and did independent Northshire Bookstore. Completely restored, it reopened just in contemporary furniture. A cozy lounge On this occasion we opted to stay at time for the Great Recession. The current contained a comfortable couch that faced the intriguingly named The Reluctant owner Peter Sharp purchased the prop- a gas fireplace and a small writing desk. Panther. The sobriquet is attributed to the erty in 2010, bringing to it three genera- The spacious bedroom, painted a cheer- hesitation of the rare Vermont mountain tions of hotel expertise, as members of his ful hue of yellow, came with its own gas lions — known locally as “catamounts” — family have owned, at various times, The fireplace, sofa, chest of drawers and large to approach human habitations. Until 1897 Carlyle and the Stanhope in New York City closet. The bath was appointed with both the site was home to the Green Mountain and the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles. a soaking tub and a walk-in shower. Tavern, once a favorite of Ethan Allen and Set on a corner just off the main thor- Breakfast is an important part of the his Green Mountain Boys, and it became oughfare, the inn comprises a handsome Panther stay, and it is served in a dining The Reluctant Panther in the 1960s. In main building, with light yellow clapboard room with coffered ceilings, generously late 2005, a Texan couple purchased the and gabled roofs, plus two adjacent spaced tables and a view out to gardens inn and, almost exactly one month later, it structures. Together the three buildings arranged around a small pond with a house the inn’s 20 rooms. Walking into fountain and a wooden bridge. In addition a reception area decorated with lovely to country-fresh eggs, daily specials make CANADA custom-painted murals, we were warmly ordering an enjoyable dilemma — except (QUEBEC) greeted by the manager, who subsequently for the day when irresistible blueberry VERMONT proved to be a congenial presence and an pancakes appeared. 0 50 MI invaluable source of information. Like all One evening, we made for the snug 0 50 KM of the rooms, our suite was individually little bar situated just before the entrance BURLINGTON 7 Lake STOWE Entrance, and our room at the Four Columns Inn, Newfane / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Champlain 8 MONTPELIER SHELBURNE 6 WAITSFIELD 5 WARREN GREEN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL F OREST onnecticut R. BARNARD C 1 The Reluctant Panther 4 3 SHIRE 2 Four Columns Inn WOODSTOCK 3 Woodstock Inn & Resort HAMP 4 Twin Farms W 5 The Inn at the Round Barn Farm NE MANCHESTER 6 The Pitcher Inn 1 7 Edson Hill GREEN NEWFANE MOUNTAIN 2 8 The Inn at NATIONAL Shelburne Farms F OREST BRATTLEBORO NEW YORK MASSACHUSETTS 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016 Crowley’s medium sharp to the dining room. There we enjoyed a it closed in 2013. Recently, the inn and its conversation with local couples — the 138 acres of grounds caught the eye of restaurant enjoys a high reputation in Charles Mallory, CEO of Delamar hotels this part of Vermont — before going in in Connecticut — a company with luxury for an excellent meal. I loved the starter properties in Greenwich, Southport and of fonduta with rock shrimp, artichokes, shortly, West Hartford. All 16 rooms have baby spinach and brioche crostini in been fully renovated, and a new gym and a Chardonnay-fontina sauce. This was spa now complement the outdoor pool. followed by a superb rib eye from a Today, the main building lies just ARTISANAL PRODUCERS butcher owned by proprietor Peter Sharp. behind the original four-columned struc- The Reluctant Panther is a truly ture. At the front desk, an attentive young charming inn with a fine staff, sophisti- woman greeted us and then helped us with On the Cheese Trail cated lodgings and a terrific restaurant. our luggage. “I think you’ll like this room,” Just so long as you don’t expect a full- she said, as she opened the door to our have long admired Vermont’s cheeses, so on service luxury hotel, you are likely to be suite. We agreed. The spacious bedroom, I our trip I sought out some of the local dairies. The Vermont Cheese Council has 50 members extremely content. with a high ceiling beneath a peaked roof, who make more than 150 kinds of cheese from led to an alcove sitting area furnished with cow, sheep and goat milk. It publishes a useful idding farewell to Manchester, we a mix of antique and modern furniture, pamphlet with a directory of members. B headed east for an easy 35-mile which in turn extended onto a private deck drive to Newfane, just north of the thriv- overlooking the pool and gardens. The Consider Bardwell Farm ing town of Brattleboro, a lively place of gentle blue of the walls made for a restful The name is not a plea for business; rather, it restaurants, shops and galleries that fill its atmosphere. In the large adjoining bath, is the name of the man who founded the first wealth of old brick buildings. Arriving in a Jacuzzi tub proved welcome at the end Vermont cheesemaking cooperative in 1864. Newfane, we found a classic New England of the day, while the walk-in shower got Russell Glover and Angela Miller are keeping the tradition vibrant. My favorites from the current green surrounded by a cluster of white the morning off to an invigorating start. portfolio are the Rupert, an aged cow cheese that buildings that included a Greek Revival The inn’s public areas have been can be likened to Gruyère, and the Manchester, a county courthouse, a church topped with attractively decorated with the work of raw goat Tomme with an earthy, nutty character. a heaven-ascending spire, a meeting hall local artists. In the reception area, I was 1333 Route 153, West Pawlet. and the handsome Four Columns Inn. particularly taken with a whimsical mural In 1965, a French couple purchased by Lisa Adams depicting the Newfane Grafton Village Cheese the property and, without knowing it at area.