Spicing up Britain: Multicultural History of British
THE MULT CULTURAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FOOD PANIKOS PANAYI Spicing Up Britain Spicing Up Britain The Multicultural History of British Food Panikos Panayi reaktion books For my wife Mundeep Published by Reaktion Books Ltd 33 Great Sutton Street London ec1v 0dx www.reaktionbooks.co.uk First published 2008 Copyright © Panikos Panayi 2008 All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. Printed and bound in Great Britain by Cromwell Press, Trowbridge, Wiltshire British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Panayi, Panikos Spicing up Britain : the multicultural history of British food 1. Food habits – Great Britain – History 2. National characteristics. British 3. Hybridity (Social sciences) – Great Britain – History I. Title 394.1'2'0941 isbn–13: 978 1 86189 373 4 Contents Preface 7 part i: introduction 1 British and Foreign Food 12 part ii: the first ripples of change, circa 1850–1945 2 Immigration and the Emergence of ‘Ghetto’ Food 40 3 The Birth of the Foreign Restaurant 65 4 Changes in British Eating Habits 95 part iii: the culinary revolution since 1945 5 The Multiculturalization of Migrant Food 124 6 The Victory of the Foreign Restaurant 151 7 The Revolution in the Home 181 part iv: conclusion 8 Food and Multiculturalization 212 References 221 Bibliography 251 Acknowledgements 265 Photo Acknowledgements 267 Index 269 Preface This book has deep roots in my own personal and academic life. Born to Greek Cypriot immigrants in London in 1962, I could not speak English until I went to school in 1967.
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