INSIDE: Wine-Focused Hotel in 4 Farmhouse Chic in 6 Hiking in 7 Rediscovering Vittoria Colonna 8

Vista Palazzo Lago di Como

Marcello Natarelli NEW HOTELS IN celebrating 15 years of great travel advice Flashy to Farmhouse dream of ® Chic id you miss this year’s invitation from George and D Amal? Never fear. Views of Lake Como are yours, immediately, at Vista Palazzo Lago di Como — look out your suite’s window and you’ll Volume 17, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2018 see nothing but sailboats, water and ITA LY mountains. This Lario Hotels Vista property is the first and only 5-star hotel in the center of Como, with 18 THE STRONG & KIND rooms carefully designed to both afford those views and to show off PEOPLE OF ABRUZZO the 19th-century Venetian-style palazzo housing them. he central Italian region of loyalty to their land and to each other, Abruzzo is called la terra di mare earning them the handle forte e The guests-only rooftop, which T e monti, where you can travel gentile — strong and kind. includes a library, bar and restaurant, from the to the has the most sweeping perspective, mountains in under an hour. Paolino Sanelli allowing lucky vacationers to see Though only two hours from both natural beauty and their Rome, Abruzzo is one of High in the mountains of proximity to all that the region has to Italy’s last unexplored frontiers Abruzzo, overlooking the offer. where you can hike through lush, Eden-like Orfento River rugged mountains and Valley and the proud Maiella The family-owned Lario company has verdant valleys only to mountain, is the tiny hamlet always been about “The Lake Como stumble upon medieval of Decontra. Decontra Experience,” and expanding their villages and hidden emerges out of thin air, at the hospitality to the 5-star level works hermitages carved into stone. end of a road perfumed by because they pay attention to details Paolino Sanelli canary yellow brush during in all their properties, from the It is a region with a proud pastoral spring and summer, its stone houses stylish Como city Albergo Terminus tradition that has seen hardship and huddled together like the flocks of Hotel to the lakeside Hotel Villa Flori poverty due to wars and an isolated sheep that have passed through for to the chic Posta Design Hotel. geographic position, but whose centuries. generous people have emerged with The Vista Palazzo suites have been an indomitable spirit of survival and continued on page 2 continued on page 4 The population of Abruzzo is 1.2 million. Abruzzo continued from page 1

And when you there was good cheer,” “When you get cold, put your arms enter the sleepy Paolino writes. inside your sweater and hug yourself rural village, you just like the flowers do.” And from that may spot an old Paolino has spent his moment, Gina’s saffron story began. man ambling along entire life in Decontra, with a cane, save for a brief stint “The Sarra family has always worked wearing a baseball working in an apple in saffron,” says 79-year-old Gina in a cap and a smile that orchard north of booming voice as she pours saffron no amount of labor Agriturismo Pietrantica . Of his time in tisana and serves slices of freshly baked or hardship has succeeded in England he’ll tell you, “ Non mi e’ ciambella in her little kitchen. For the 98 dimming. He is Paolino — shepherd, piaciuto ” or “I didn’t like it.” “It used to small saffron producers from 13 contadino, poet, dreamer. rain every day…one never saw different villages in the sun… So I longed for those Abruzzo’s Navelli At five years old, Paolino was sent up lovely mountains of the Maiella, plateau, the cultivation to the mountains to pasture sheep, and which used to offer me so many of saffron has been a from that day began Paolino’s love fine days of splendid sunshine.” way of life and a labor story with the Maiella — or Majella — In those mountains, Paolino of love for centuries. In the “mother” mountain of Abruzzo protected his sheep from attacks fact, in 1971, Gina’s named for Dea Maja, a goddess of by hungry wolves; survived an brother, Silvio formed a

8 growth and nurturing. Paolino invasion by the Nazis; fell in union to protect local 1 0 2

recounts his experiences as a shepherd love and raised a family; and saffron farmers from y a and farmer in a small book called My spent countless nights gazing unfair market M Dreams Have All Been of the Maiella. and dreaming under a blanket Gina Sarra competition called the 2 of stars. Cooperativa Paolino and other young shepherds Altopiano di

m from Decontra brought their flocks of These days, you can find Navelli. o c .

y sheep to grassy meadows of the Paolino – now 92 years old l a t i Maiella at altitudes of over 4,100 feet. and affectionately known At Gina’s urging, f o

m From April to June, they remained on as Nonno Paolino — seated Silvio introduced a e

r the mountains and witnessed the at the stone patio of the world to d .

w pastures overtaken by the herds Agriturismo Pietrantica, Abruzzo’s oro rosso w

w returning from the transumanza. owned by his son Camillo Saffron crocus — red gold — via During the transumanza, which means and daughter-in-law, Marisa. And if a popular television program, which “crossing the land,” shepherds in you take the time to sit with Paolino over time led to numerous culinary Abruzzo led their sheep in autumn to and listen to his stories, you will be accolades for Navelli’s prized saffron, the warmer lowlands of Puglia and rewarded with tales of a life well-lived including the holy grail for food returned in spring to their mountains. and of dreams that have all been of the producers — DOP certification, the Paolino recalls, “It was a real spectacle Maiella. highest distinction that a food in Italy when the herds returned and there can be afforded. was a fine party.” To meet Nonno Paolino, find out more at: www.agripietrantica.com Gina is a natural storyteller who, He speaks frequently of a deep, almost despite having lived in the little village sacred, relationship to nature and Gina Sarra of Civitaretenga her entire life, clearly nostalgically recalls a time and place in knows how to work a crowd. After all, which life was harder, but also Gina Sarra picked saffron for the first she’s had her share of practice. She is simpler. “At the time when I was a time at the tender age of three. It was a regularly visited by chefs and food young shepherd…we were always crisp October morning and the little cognoscenti from around the globe. together and also in our village there girl was sleepy and shivering so her “Gina e’ internazionale (Gina is was so much harmony. People mother beseeched her to mimic the international),” a neighbor chides. Her worked, people worked really hard but very crocuses they were picking. phone rings off the hook with calls from Abruzzo is considered the gree visitors who seek her as much for her Francesca DiNisio removing the leaves from the nets stock of fragrant Navelli saffron as for spread out under the trees and her infinite knowledge about the spice. The sun begins to dim on an unusually eventually climbing nimbly up the balmy October day in the gently ladders to pick the olives. “In October, the flowers are collected - sloping hills that frame the town of strictly by hand, one by one — early in Bucchianico. Francesca DiNisio, the By the time Francesca was in her teens, the morning before the sun opens young owner of CantinArte, an olive oil it was clear she was a natural and them,” explains Gina. “From one and wine company in Abruzzo, pauses before long, she was running the hectare of cultivated land we obtain — for a moment to wipe a bead of sweat operation. “My grandmother taught if all goes well — one kilo of dried from her brow and take in the endless me to see the beauty in taking care of saffron. In that kilo are 250,000 flowers rows of silvery green olive trees. plants like they are children,” says and over 500 hours of work.” Francesca as she gazes at the olive These were her grandparents’ trees trees that surround her with adoration Navelli saffron’s hefty price tag of and they now belong to her. Her and awe. approximately 25€ per gram reflects reverie is broken by a child’s voice the manual labor involved in its calling out to her. “ Mamma, sono stanca “My grandfather used to say, you can cultivation and production as well as (I’m tired),” says her four-year-old live without wine, but without good the Cooperativa’s guarantee of quality daughter and Francesca chuckles to oil, never!” laughs Francesca. But she and authenticity. herself as she often does when she immediately grows serious and says,

wonders whether “But it’s true, olive oil flows in our 8 1 0 2

But Gina hasn’t slowed her two small continued on page 7 y down. Saffron — despite children will one a all its toil — is who she day appreciate M is. It is rumored among the lands they dream of 3 her neighbors that Gina will inherit. ®

keeps a tattered sheet of m o c .

paper on which she For Francesca, the y l

ITALY a

Kathleen A. McCabe t proudly recorded her olive harvest has i f

Editor in Chief and Publisher o

personal best records both for always held an aura of m a e

raccogliere — picking the romanticism, despite the r

Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick d .

crocuses — 1,623 flowers long days and intense Associate Editor: Elaine Murphy w Design: Kim Leaird w picked in 12 minutes, 18 labor involved. Her w www.leaird-designs.com seconds — and for the number grandparents’ 60-year of crocuses sfiorati — stripped love story began among Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a of the pistils that will those very olive trees. year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and ultimately become saffron “My grandmother’s abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to threads — 1,000 in one hour, 4 family owned a farm more than 140 back issues and regular e-mail updates. minutes, 23 seconds. and my grandfather and Three ways to subscribe: his brothers went to 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, Is it true? She may never tell, pick the olives. There Denver, CO 80201 Francesca DiNisio 2. Call 202-297-3708 but with a twinkle in her eye were many girls 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, and over a final sip of saffron tea, she bringing water, wine and taralli to the Mastercard and American Express accepted) fondly recalls, “When I was a child and workers, but my grandfather spotted Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] was tired after a long day’s work, my my grandmother from across the Advertising opportunities are available. grandmother would tell me, “ Dai, keep uliveto and it was love at first sight.” E-mail: [email protected] going and I’ll buy you dried figs. But Copyright © 2018 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights I’m still waiting for those figs!” As a small child, despite her Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - protestations, Francesca was banished mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, To meet Gina, find out more at: to the sidelines, but as she got older, Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that www.zafferanoaltopianonavelli.it she was assigned tasks such as may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com nest region in . New Hotels continued from page 1

furnished with Italian craftsmanship, ROME + WINE = One of the most charming ways to be from marquetry floors to Dedar fabrics Perfect Together put in that mindset is with a visit to to local marble, shown off well in the the hotel’s hidden “Charade Bar,” bathrooms that also feature soaking The Hotel de Ricci in Rome: Location, accessible only to guests and a select tubs, separate showers, and windows location, location. Seated so few. The overlooking — what else? — the lake. close to you only barkeeps have to turn a corner to get inhabit a Guests will be pampered by Etro there, this tiny (only eight stage where products and Rivolta robes. Besides the suites) gem is surrounded by they delight rooftop social space, the hotel will antique shops and wine bars. in offer in-room spa treatments and “performing” meals prepared by a private chef. Since Speaking of wine bars, the cocktail many of the local hotels close from Hotel de Ricci takes mixing; November through March, the Vista advantage of the knowledge Hotel de Ricci there’s also a Palazzo is a great choice for travelers local sommeliers have. Actually, private cigar room with humidor. who know that Lake Como has no they’ve hired those local sommeliers. Along with the scheduled wine “off” season. The entire staff is made up of tastings promoted on the hotel’s professional sommeliers who help website, there are musical guests With the lake so guests have a total several times each week.

8 close, visitors will experience, 1 0 2

want to leave their starting with a Dining options are available for all y a rooms eventually, welcoming glass, three meals—in-room only for M and the Vista continuing with breakfast, while lunch and dinner can 4 Palazzo has plenty customized tastings, and be enjoyed in your suite, in one of the of options for including, if guests wish, lounges, or even outside on the relaxed

m outings, from a tours of nearby patio. The small but carefully curated o c .

y private tour of the vineyards. menu has three courses, appetizers to l a

t Vista Palazzo i lake on a deluxe dessert, with something for every taste f o

m Riva speedboat, to a customized The daily tastings derive from the and dietary need. a e

r seaplane trip, to a drive into for hotel’s temperature-controlled cellar d . Hotel de Ricci w some of Italy’s most luxurious made up of over 1,500 wines from w Via della Barchetta, 14 w shopping. around the world, many of which can be enjoyed through the latest Rome If none of those suit, a personal enological innovation of “Coravin,” (39) 066 874775 concierge will help plan an itinerary which allows wine to be extracted www.hoteldericci.com just for you, whether you’re interested from a bottle without the cork being Rates: From 375 to 575€ per night, depending on in outdoor activities or sightseeing. pulled. Each suite has a “personal suite, in-room breakfast included. This hotel, like its siblings, is all about wine cellar” of four whites and four the lake experience, and all of its reds, which can be set according to offerings are backed by over six taste, or found with serendipity. A CASTLE IN decades of Lario Hotels expertise. While the Hotel de Ricci pays a lot of Puglia Vista Palazzo Lago di Como attention to wine, the staff also pays a You want something unspoiled, an Piazza Cavour, 24 lot of attention to guests’ comfort: Each Italy undiscovered by hordes of Como of the suites (two each of Junior, Suite, tourists. You want something storied (39) 031 5375241 Suite with Balcony, Deluxe) has an and historic. You want something www.vistalagodicomo.com eclectic, retro mix of furnishings, to put tailored to you and your needs, but Rates: Starting at 720€ for a deluxe room, break - visitors in mind of a golden era for you also want the latest in comfort and fast very much included. Rome, its Hollywood years. convenience. Puglia has a new luxury destination, the Castello di Ugento, that Lago di Como is the third-large might be just what you’re looking for Odette Fado, who creates dishes focused Palermo, like Via Libertà and Via this year. on the abundant local seafood and Ruggero Settimo. Palermo is, after all, lamb. Much of the restaurant’s the 2018 Italian Capital of Culture, and Owned and operated by the d’Amore produce comes from the walled visitors will want to stroll through its family, whose ancestral marquis first garden. storied streets to see everything from took possession of the Norman the royal palace and cathedral to the stronghold in 1643, the Guests can take Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera castello still has many cooking classes at house in Europe. examples of the family the Centre, or book crest, a pelican feeding a private tour of The seven apartments and suites her chicks — a stylized Lecce with entrance created in the hotel have a comfy vibe, pen-nib rendition of to a few of its most with squishy sofas, fresh linens, and that pelican is now the beautiful palazzi. In complete kitchens that allow hotel’s logo. In 2013, fact, guests can preparation of anything from a simple the d’Amores began a enjoy almost any coffee to a full meal. These are true floor-to-ceiling Castello di Ugento type of experience “homes away from home” that reflect renovation of their property that they like, including hiking and the family’s taste and thoughtfulness. restored everything, from its ancient bicycling, culinary tourism, or driving Although you can prepare your own stone walls and Roman frescoes to its to Otranto or Matera. With the Adriatic meals around the clock, the Bar Giada

17th-century gilded rooms, to full on one side and the Ionian on the does offer breakfast and drinks 8 1 0 2

glory. other, Ugento provides many throughout the day. y opportunities for a The nine guest rooms and suites swimming, sunbathing and Each room has a M nestled within the castello, however, boating. complimentary 5 are pure new-millennium luxury. Each bottle of Planeta Castello di Ugento has been decorated by a top name in wine placed in m o

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The rooms on the ground floor provide bottle—the r d Rates: Start at 375€ per night, with Planeta Estate . access to a stunning walled garden, Planetas have w breakfast and dinner included. w while the second-floor Piano Nobile been making wine since the 17th w rooms showcase the Ugento skyline. century in Sambuca di Sicilia. Today Along with luxurious Italian linens, all their output even includes wine rooms and suites are stocked with bath PLANETA IN produced in ’s Etna region, amenities made with the famed renowned for its reds (the sandy soil Pugliese olive oil from some of Italy’s Palermo prohibits growth of phylloxera, so the oldest producing trees. Palermo’s Planeta Estate expands the vines stay healthy). Planeta family’s hospitality range, Across the courtyard is not only the which already includes five wineries Planeta Estate hotel’s restaurant, but the newly around Sicily and a five-star resort at Via Principe Belmonte, 68 opened Puglia Culinary Centre, in Menfi, La Foresteria. The new hotel is Palermo partnership with the Culinary Institute actually the Planeta palazzo, (39) 0925 1955460 of America, where students spend overlooking Piazza Ignazio Florio, www.planetaestate.it September to April learning the secrets dating from the early 20th century. Rates: 104 to 250€, depending on the season. of the region’s “nonnas” and the pastas Breakfast included. they create from Puglia’s wheat. Located on Via Principe di Belmonte, the only pedestrian mall in the port city, The Castello’s restaurant, Il Tempo Planeta Estate allows guests to stroll Nuovo, is the domain of House Chef through the most elegant streets of 1€ = $1.18 at press time st lake in the country of Italy. 6

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Abruzzo continued from page 3

nature tourism, offering guided hikes fortress of Rocca Calascio. Two of and excursions in Abruzzo’s three Marcello’s other favorite places to national parks as well as other explore are the waterfalls of La Valle di immersive experiences, including Cusano and a tucked-away cistern in biking, canyoning and sailing. the Orta River, both stunning settings to cool your heels in the Marcello is often asked why summertime. travelers should choose Abruzzo as a trekking However, for himself, destination given the many Marcello admits, “I love well-trodden options in going to the mountains . His response alone. My favorite paths family’s veins. None of us could comes easily. “Abruzzo is an are the ‘hidden’ ones. survive without it. Even if it is difficult authentic land. Much of its Perhaps one day I’ll to get up early on the mornings of the territory, especially the organize a trekking harvest, to bend down with your back mountains, has remained excursion called breaking to position the nets, to keep linked to its ancient pastoral ‘Majellando’s Hidden raking those olives from their branches traditions. Those mountains Marcello Natarelli Trails.’” until the evening — we do it willingly have been preserved

because we want that olive oil — no, over the centuries by the Marcello’s goal for 8 1 0 2

we NEED it.” very men who relied on Majellando is as y them to survive. Most of much about a In this way, the seeds for Francesca’s the mountain trails education as it is M career were planted. Her love of retrace the shepherds’ about tourism. The 7 country life and fierce entrepreneurial ancient paths. It is magic company leads

spirit propelled her to launch to breathe in their didactic programs m o c .

CantinArte, a company she founded 10 history.” tailored to families y l

Marcello biking a t years ago that produces organic olive and children that convey the stories i f o

oil and wines in Abruzzo from lands Marcello’s earliest memories of and traditions of the mountains. m a e

that have been in her family for trekking in the mountains are with his Marcello also wishes to educate local r d .

generations. “The incredible oil that is great-grandfather, who would gingerly people about the beauty of their w w

pressed from our olives is a gift from place the little boy in his donkey’s territory so they can join his efforts as w nature and we are blessed to share it saddle basket at 5 a.m. on scorching an ambassador for Abruzzo. with others.” August days in the hopes of completing the farm work before the “I always say that to speak of beautiful To meet Francesca, find out more at: intense late summer sun forced them things, we must live beautiful things. I www.cantinarte.com back home. am fortunate to live every day in the places that I love deeply and I believe Marcello Natarelli These days, Marcello’s favorite hikes this shows in the work that I dedicate include the path that leads to the to my land every day.” Marcello Natarelli is a man on a mission Hermitage of San Giovanni all’Orfento, a — he has made it his life’s work to trek suited for more experienced hikers To join one of Marcello’s hikes, find out prove to the world that Abruzzo is a that “takes you to a magical place that more at: www.majellando.it destination that deserves to be I recommend everyone experience at explored. In 2014, Marcello combined least once in their lives,” says Marcello —Michelle DiBenedetto-Capobianco

his web marketing expertise with his with reverence. Michelle DiBenedetto-Capobianco is the founder of passion for his region’s innumerable Majella Home Cooking & Abruzzo Tours. A natural wonders to launch Majellando, Majellando also offers a variety of former corporate-lawyer-turned-private-chef in New now the largest tourism outfit in walks along routes suitable for all York, Michelle organizes immersive, small-group Abruzzo. Majellando specializes in hikers, including to the dramatic tours of Abruzzo. For more information, visit www.majellahomecooking.com. up to compete with Airbnb. Rediscovering the Life of Vittoria Colonna

n the island of Ischia, a castle sits nevertheless led her to “become ‘Ask Vittoria.’” high on the rugged cliffs involved in Lutheran Reform circles,” overlooking the Bay of Naples. In Targoff says, which posthumously Still, her most tangible contribution to O1525, 35-year-old Vittoria Colonna, the brought her under the scrutiny of the the Renaissance is her poetry. Targoff Marchesa of , awaited news of Inquisition. writes, she “transformed her sorrows her husband who was away at war. On into verse,” and in doing so, “she one November day, a messenger “I often say she was like the Forrest broke entirely new ground for arrived with the devastating news that Gump of the Renaissance except she women’s poetry.” Ferrante d’Avalos, the Spanish wasn’t just sort of there when it nobleman she’d married 16 years happened,” Targoff says. “She was an Before that point, few women poets earlier, lay gravely wounded. active participant.” were published, and even fewer wrote Petrarchan sonnet cycles, a Before she could reach form usually used by male him, he died, leaving writers. Vittoria addressed Vittoria a widow her sonnets to her husband consumed by grief. “She and to her grief, one of was in mourning for seven which begins, “I write only

8 years,” says Ramie Targoff, to vent my inward pain.” 1 0 2

author of an exciting new y a biography: Renaissance As much as she poured her M Woman: The Life of Vittoria heart out on the page, 8 Colonna (Farrar, Strauss Vittoria eventually moved and Giroux, 2018). on. “She goes through this Title page of Colonna’s Targoff’s book Drawing of Colonna by

m Vittoria’s sadness transformation from a love

o 1559 collection c .

y overwhelmed her but it also drove Targoff’s book begins with Vittoria’s poet to a religious poet,” Targoff says. l a t i her to write more than 130 sonnets widowhood because that’s when her Michelangelo bore witness to her f o

m about her loss. influence began. Steeped in grief, she transformation. The two exchanged a e

r moved into a nunnery after her letters and gifts, criticized each other’s d .

w Now Targoff, a professor of English husband’s death and hoped to become work, and even discussed the Lutheran w

w and co-chair of Italian Studies at a nun, but Clement, likely for Reformation at length. Brandeis University, has produced a political reasons Targoff argues, fascinating biography about one of the forbade her from taking the veil. Targoff’s book is a wonderful most important women of the Italian exploration of the ways Vittoria helped Renaissance, who was nearly lost to “He needed her because she was the to shape the Renaissance through her history. most sane member of her family,” says poetry and friendships. To uncover the author. “We have letters that show Vittoria’s extraordinary life took a lot “Not only was she the first woman she was actively negotiating between of work. Over four years, Targoff ever to publish a book of poems in the pope, the visited the places Vittoria lived, dug Italy,” Targoff explains of Vittoria’s and her brother, . ” into various family archives, and even 1538 collection, “but she was also a got into the archive of the Inquisition member of one of the most powerful As head of the Colonna family, at the Vatican — a “Kafkaesque households, the Colonna family.” Ascanio was at worst “crazy,” Targoff experience,” says Targoff. says, and at best “unreliable.” In fact, Her vast influence spanned all aspects just six months after Vittoria asked to “Vittoria Colonna is a historical figure of Renaissance life. An astute political become a nun, the pope and Ascanio who is both a product of her time,” negotiator, she was friendly with were actively at war with each other, says Targoff, “but also exceptional in several . She supported the arts which led to the sack of Rome in 1527. her time.” and befriended Michelangelo. A devout Through it all, says Targoff, “We have —Lisa Chambers Catholic, her inquisitive mind these letters from diplomats saying, Colonna died in Rome at the age of 54.