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Scandinavia & Northern Europe

Scandinavia & Northern Europe

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Effortlessly chic cities, many with charming historic centres, contrast with soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban CRUISE PORTS design. Inspiring food and a full menu of seasons make a premium cruise destination. Stolid northern stereotypes dissolve in the ’s vibrant capitals. Crest-of-the-wave design can SCANDINAVIA be seen in many, backed by outstanding modern architecture, excellent and galleries, imaginative solutions for 21st-century urban living, internationally acclaimed restaurants and a night- life that fizzes along despite sometimes-hefty beer & NORTHERN prices. A palpable sense of history is present throughout: the dominated these , the Hanseatic trading cartel put port cities on the map in medieval EUROPE times, while the seismic impact of 20th-century events left deep scars throughout. You’ll rarely come across the word ‘ecotourism’ in northern Europe, but those values have long been A GUIDE TO PERFECT DAYS ON SHORE an important part of life here. Generally, green, sustainable solutions are a way of living, rather than a gimmick to attract visitors. Scandinavia, in particular, will likely be significantly affected by climate change and big efforts to reduce emissions are being made across the region. Travelling here, you’ll be struck by the excellent levels of environ- mental protection, the sensible ‘why don’t we do that back home’ impact-reducing strategies and the forward thinking so much in evidence. It makes for pleasurably enlightening travel.

Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail soul-stirring coastal scenery, Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le remote wildernesses and Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, cutting-edge urban design Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Donna Wheeler , (p126) ANDREY KHROBOSTOV/ALAMY © See Inset

Svalbard (Norway) North Pole 2

1 5 D (1000km) °E Island 0 500 km 0 250 miles 80°N Nordaustlandet Wilhelmøya Ny Ålesund \# Pyramiden \# Barentsøya \# Longyearbyen \# Contents \# Barentsburg Edgeøya Barents Sveagruva 10°E Spitsbergen Greenland Hopen Plan Your Trip 2 Sea 5 0 200 km ° E ^# 0 100 miles Tromsø Murmansk Top 12 ������������������������ 4 Entertainment ��������������88 Shopping ��������������������140 ^# Need to Know ����������16 Eating ��������������������������140 KOLA Hot Spots for... ��������18 Drinking & Nightlife ���� 142 PENINSULA Month by Month �����20 , Entertainment ������������ 143 Get Inspired ������������ 23 90 Local Life ���������������� 24 ...at a Glance 92 Rovaniemi REYKJAVÍK #_ ^# Choose Your , Tivoli Gardens ����������� 94 (p260) Cruise ��������������������� 26 144 Designmuseum Norwegian Sustainable ...at a Glance 146 Sea Luleå ^# Danmark �������������������� 96 Cruising ������������������30 Cobbles & Cosiness Vasamuseet �������������148 Family Time Walking Tour ������������� 98 Old Town Ashore �������������������� 32 Sights ��������������������������100 Walking Tour ������������150 ^# Tours ����������������������������101 Sights �������������������������� 152 ^# Petrozavodsk ^# Vaasa Shopping ��������������������104 Tours ��������������������������� 156 ISLANDS , 34 Sundsvall RUSSIA Eating ��������������������������105 Shopping �������������������� 157 (p256) ^# ...at a Glance 36 Drinking & Nightlife ���� 107 Eating �������������������������� 157 Tampere ^# HELSINKI ORKNEYS ST PETERSBURG The Berlin Wall �����������38 Entertainment ������������109 Drinking & Nightlife ����160 (p162) ^# ISLANDS NORWAY (p180) The Reichstag ����������� 42 (p258) BERGEN #_ STOCKHOLM Berlin Nightlife ��������� 44 Shetland (p126) ^# (p144) #_ Historical Highlights Oslo, Norway 110 Helsinki, #_ (p206) (p110) #_ Tver ...at a Glance 112 Finland 162 ^# Walking Tour ������������� 46 ^# Vo ...at a Glance 164 lga Sights ����������������������������48 #_ History on Bygdøy ��� 114 Tours ����������������������������� 57 ^# MOSCOW All Along the Water- Suomenlinna ������������166 SWEDEN RĪGA Shopping ���������������������� 57 #_ front Walking Tour ��� 116 Helsinki’s Art & Design (p222) Eating ����������������������������58 LATVIA Sights ���������������������������118 Walking Tour ������������168 Glasgow Baltic Drinking & Nightlife ������ 61 NORTH ^# ^# Edinburgh ^# Smolensk Tours ��������������������������� 122 Sights �������������������������� 170 ATLANTIC NORTHERN North Öland Sea LITHUANIA Entertainment ��������������65 IRELAND Sea COPENHAGEN Shopping �������������������� 122 Tours ����������������������������174 Belfast Where to Stay ���������������67 ^# (p90) #_^# Malmö #_ Eating �������������������������� 123 Shopping ���������������������174 RUSSIA ^# ^# Douglas DENMARK #_ MINSK Drinking & Nightlife ���� 125 Eating �������������������������� 175 ^# Drinking & Nightlife �����177 DUBLIN #_ Amsterdam, the #]Manchester GDAŃSK BELARUS Entertainment ������������ 178 IRELAND AMSTERDAM ^# GERMANY (p238) Netherlands 68 Bergen, #] V Brest ...at a Glance 70 WALES Birmingham (p68) i ^# Norway 126 BERLIN stu #_ #_ #_ la ... at a Glance 128 St Petersburg, Cardiff ^# (p34) WARSAW #_KYIV Van Gogh ����72 #_ NETHERLANDS Russia 180 Zhytomyr ^# Anne Frank Huis ��������74 Bryggen ��������������������130 Dresden ...at a Glance 182 BRUSSELS ^# Exploring the Jordaan KODE ������������������������132 ^# #_ Kraków English Lille ^# Walking Tour ��������������76 Channel BELGIUM ^# Lviv Exploring The Hermitage ���������184 #_ Sights ����������������������������78 Rouen LUXEMBOURG PRAGUE Dn the �����������������134 Church of the ^# ies #_ CZECH ter Tours �����������������������������83 MOLDOVA Sights �������������������������� 136 Saviour on the #_ REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Eating ����������������������������84 PARIS Tisza CHIŞINĂU Activities ��������������������� 139 ^# Spilled Blood �����������190 Bay of Rennes BRATISLAVA ^# #_ ^# Drinking & Nightlife ������86 Munich #_ #_ Iaşi Tours ��������������������������� 139 Biscay FRANCE ^# VIENNA HUNGARY L o i ROMANIA Odessa Nantes ^# re AUSTRIA #_ BUDAPEST

Lyon ^# 3 *

St Petersburg’s Rīga, Latvia 222 Shopping ��������������������252 Historic Heart ...at a Glance 224 Eating ��������������������������252 Walking Tour ������������192 Drinking & Nightlife ����255 Sights ��������������������������194 Rīga Central Tours ���������������������������199 Market ��������������������� 226 Shopping ������������������� 200 Iela ������������� 228 Shetland Eating ������������������������� 200 Art Nouveau Rīga Islands 256 Drinking & Nightlife ��� 203 Walking Tour ����������� 230 Entertainment ����������� 204 Sights ��������������������������232 Tours ���������������������������235 Orkney Islands 258 Shopping ��������������������235 Tallinn, Eating ��������������������������235 Estonia 206 Drinking & Nightlife ����237 Reykjavík, ...at a Glance 208 Iceland 260 ...at a Glance 262 Kadriorg �������������������210 Gdańsk, Tallinn’s Old Town Poland 238 National Museum ��� 264 Walking Tour ������������ 212 ...at a Glance 240 Blue Lagoon ������������ 266 Sights �������������������������� 214 Golden Circle ���������� 268 Activities ��������������������� 218 European Solidarity Sights ��������������������������270 Tours ��������������������������� 219 Centre ���������������������� 242 Activities ���������������������275 Shopping �������������������� 219 Długi Targ ���������������� 244 Shopping ��������������������277 Eating ������������������������� 220 Along the Motława Eating ��������������������������278 Drinking & Nightlife ��� 220 Walking Tour ����������� 246 Drinking & Nightlife ����282 Sights ��������������������������248

In Focus Survival Guide Scandinavia Today ������ 286 Directory A–Z �������������� 308 History ������������������������� 288 Transport ���������������������� 312 Landscapes ����������������� 298 Index ����������������������������� 315 Wildlife ��������������������������301 Food & Drink ���������������� 304

Geirangerfjord (p135), Norway TRPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 314 Behind the Scenes

Acknowledgements This Book Climate map data adapted from This first edition of Lonely Planet’s Cruise Ports Scandinavia MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA & Northern Europe guidebook was researched and written (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the by Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Hydrology and System Sciences, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, Simon 11, 163344. Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis and Don- na Wheeler. This guidebook was produced by the following: Illustrations p188–9 by Javier Zarracina. Destination Editors Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Clifton Wilkinson, Branislava Vladisavljevic Product Editors Kathryn , Kate Mathews Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Clara Monitto Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Paul Harding, Victoria Harrison, Anne Mulvaney, Ross Taylor, Kira Tverskaya Assisting Book Designers Nicholas Colicchia, Virginia Moreno, Michael Weldon Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzie Thanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Liz Heynes, Alison Ridgway

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Aurlandsfjorden 135 tourist information 65-6 Index aurora borealis 300 tours 57 transport 37, 66 A walking tour 46-7, 46-7 Berlin Wall 38-41, 40-1 accommodation, see Berlin bathrooms 311 bicycle travel, see cycling activities 20-2, see also Begijnhof 82-3 303, see also puffins swimming Bergen 8, 126-43, 129, 138 birdwatching 257, 303 air travel 312-13 activities 139 Blue Lagoon 266-7 Alberta Iela 228-9 drinking & nightlife 142-3 boat trips, see also ferries Alexander Nevsky Monastery entertainment 143 Amsterdam 83 198-9 food 140-2 Copenhagen 104 Alþingi 270-1 highlights 130-5 Helsinki 174 amber 252 itineraries 128 Oslo 122 Amsterdam 6, 68-89, 71, 80-1 planning 128-9 St Petersburg 199 drinking & nightlife 86-7 shopping 140 Stockholm 156-7 entertainment 88 sights 136-9 books 23 food 84-6 tourist information 143 Brandenburger Tor 48 highlights 72-5 tours 139-40 Bressay 256-7 itineraries 70 transport 143 breweries & microbreweries legal matters 89 Bergen International Festival 21 Birri 178 planning 70-1 Berlin 4-5, 34-67, 36-7 Brouwerij Troost 87 safety 89 accommodation 67 Bryggeriet 142 shopping 83-4 Alexanderplatz 53-4 Heineken Experience 78 sights 78-82 Charlottenburg 56-7, 60-1, tourist information 89 64-5 Mikkeller & Friends 109 tours 83 drinking & nightlife 44-5, 61-5 brown cafes 87 transport 89 entertainment 65 Bryggen 130-1 walking tour 76-7, 76-7 food 58-61 budget 17 animals 301-3, see also birds, Friedrichshain 63-4, 63 polar bears, puffins, whales gay & lesbian travellers 62 C Anne Frank Huis 74-5 highlights 36-7 cable cars 139 archaeological sites itineraries 36 canals 88, 100 Jarlshof 257 Kreuzberg 55-6, 60, 62-3, 55 castles & fortresses Maeshowe 258-9 Mitte 48-9, 58-9, 61, 50-1 Akershus Festning 118 Ness of Brodgar 259 planning 36-7 Lower Town Wall (Tallinn) Skara Brae 258 Potsdamer Platz 54-5, 61-2, 214-15 architecture 18, 174, 236 55 Peter & Paul Fortress 195 art galleries, see museums & Prenzlauer Berg 55, 59-60, 62 Rosenborg Slot 101 galleries Scheunenviertel 49-53 Suomenlinna 166-7 ATMs 310 shopping 57-8 , see churches & sights 48-57 cathedrals 000 Map pages Tiergarten 54-5, 61-2 cell phones 311 316 INDEX C–H

Changing of the Guard customs regulations 308 foraging 306 (Copenhagen) 101 cycling local specialities 305-6 Checkpoint Charlie 49 Amsterdam 83 New Nordic cuisine 304-5 children, travel with 32-3 Berlin 57 fortresses, see castles & churches & cathedrals Copenhagen 104 fortresses Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Helsinki 174 218 Oslo 122 G Berliner Dom 54 Reykjavík 276 galleries, see museums & Church of the Saviour on the Stockholm 161 galleries Spilled Blood 190-1 gardens, see parks & gardens Hallgrímskirkja 271 gay travellers 62, 309 Kaiser-Wilhelm-­ D Gdańsk 15, 238-55, 241, 250 Gedächtniskirche 57 dangers, see safety drinking & nightlife 255 Oliwa Cathedral 252 design 18, 83, 96-7, 153, 171-4, food 252-4 Rīga Cathedral 232 174-5 highlights 242-5 St Catherine’s Cloister 215 Designmuseum Danmark 96-7 itineraries 240 St Magnus Cathedral 259 disabilities, travellers with 312 planning 240-1 St Mary’s Church 248-9 distilleries 87-8, 259 shopping 252 St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral drinking & nightlife 25, 306 215 sights 248-52 Suomenlinnan Kirkko 166 E tourist information 255 transport 255 Temppeliaukion Kirkko 171 electricity 308-9 walking tour 246-7, 246-7 Tuomiokirkko 170 environmental issues 286-7 135 Uspenskin Katedraali 170-1 etiquette 308 Gendarmenmarkt 49 climate 16, 20-2, 308 European Solidarity Centre 298-9 Copenhagen 7, 90-109, 93, 242-3 Geysir 269 102-3 European Union 287 Golden Circle 268-9 drinking & nightlife 107-9 events 20-1 Golden Gate 251 entertainment 109 exchange rates 310 food 105-7 Great Arsenal 251 highlights 94-7 Great Mill 251 itineraries 92 F Gullfoss 269 family travel 32-3 planning 92-3 Fernsehturm 54 shopping 104-5 ferries 313 H sights 100-1 Hackesche Höfe 49-52 festivals & events 20-2 tourist information 109 254, 292 films 23 tours 101-4 Hardangerfjord 134 fjords 137 transport 109 health 309 Aurlandsfjorden 135 walking tour 98-9, 98-9 Helsinki 11, 162-79, , Geirangerfjord 135 165 172-3 credit cards 310 drinking & nightlife 177-8 Hardangerfjord 134 cruise lines 26-9 entertainment 178 Lysefjord 135 sustainability 30-1 food 175-7 Sognefjorden 134-5 currency 16 highlights 166-7 tours 140 itineraries 164 food 24, 158, 304-6 000 Map pages planning 164-5 H–M INDEX 317

shopping 174-5 Gdańsk 244-5 Great Guild Hall 214 sights 170-4 Helsinki 175 Hafnarhús 271 tourist information 179 Rīga 226-7 Hamburger Bahnhof – tours 174 Stockholm 157-8 Museum für Gegenwart transport 179 Tallinn 219 52-3 walking tour 168-9, 168-9 measures 312 Hanseatic Museum 137 Hermitage, the 184-9, 188-9 microbreweries, see breweries Harpa 271 historic sights 19 Midnight Sun 300 Hermitage Amsterdam 79 history 288-97 mobile phones 311 Hermitage Storage Facility 195-8 Hanseatic League 292 monasteries 198-9 Hermitage, the 184-9, 188-9 293-4 money 16, 310-11 Historical Museum of social 297 museums & galleries 18 Gdańsk 248 Viking era 290-1 ABBA: The Museum 153 Historiska Museet 156 WWII 296-7 Amber Museum 249-51 Hotel Viru KGB Museum 215 holidays 311 Anne Frank Huis 74-5 i8 270 Holocaust Memorial (Berlin) Arsenāls Exhibition Hall 232 Ibsen Museet 118 48-9 Art Museum Rīga Bourse Icelandic Phallological hot springs 276 232-3 Museum 275 hygge 108 Artus Court Museum 248 Jüdisches Museum 55-6 Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection Kansallismuseo 171 274 I Kiasma 170 Ásmundarsafn 271 immigration 287 Kjarvalsstaðir 271 Astrup Fearnley Museet 119 insurance 309-10 KODE 132-3 Ateneum 170 internet access 17, 310 Kon-Tiki Museum 115 Bergen Kunsthall 137-9 Kumu 211 Bryggens Museum 131 Latvian Ethnographic Open- K Corner House 233 Air Museum 233-5 Kadriorg 210-11 Culture House 271-4 Lennusadam 218 King’s Day (Koningsdag) 20-1 DDR Museum 54 Marble Palace 194 KODE 132-3 Design Museum (Helsinki) Mikkel Museum 211 171-4 Moderna Museet 152-3 Designmuseum Danmark 96-7 L Munchmuseet 122 Deutsches Historisches languages 16 Museum 48 Museum für Naturkunde 52 lesbian travellers 62, 309 East Berlin’s Stasi Museum 49 Museum het Rembrandthuis local life 24-5 78 Edvard Grieg Museum 136 Lysefjord 135 Museum of Finnish Ehrensvärd-­Museo 167 Architecture 174 Estonian Art Museum 211 Museumsinsel 53-4 M Estonian Open-Air Museum Museum Willet-Holthuysen Maeshowe 258-9 215-18 79-82 markets European Solidarity Centre Nasjonalgalleriet 118 Amsterdam 78, 84 242-3 National Gallery of Iceland Bergen 140 Fabergé Museum 194-5 274-5 Berlin 58 Fotografiska 153-6 National Maritime Museum Gemäldegalerie 54-5 Copenhagen 106 249 318 INDEX M–R museums & galleries continued Northern Lights 300 Þingvellir National Park 268-9 National Museum (Reykjavík) Noss 256-7 planning 264-5 calendar of events 20-2 National Museum’s Depart- O cruise lines 26-9 ment of Early Art 251-2 sustainable cruises 30-1 Orkney Islands 258-9 Nationalmuseet 100 travel with children 32-3 Oslo 8, 110-25, 113, 120-1 Nobels Fredssenter 119 polar bears 303 drinking & nightlife 125 Norsk Folkemuseum 115 Polar Night 300 food 123-5 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek 100-1 population 287 highlights 114-15 Ole Bull Museum 136-7 public holidays 311 itineraries 112 Polarship Fram Museum 115 puffins 257, 275, 276, 277, 303 planning 112-13 Reykjavík Art Museum 271 shopping 122-3 Rīga Art Nouveau Museum 229 sights 118-22 R Rijksmuseum 78 tourist information 125 Ráðhús 271 Russian Museum 194 tours 122 Reformation 293-4 Museum 275 transport 125 Reichstag 42-3 Settlement Exhibition 270 walking tour 116-17, 116-17 287 Shetland Museum 256 Reykjavík 14, 260-83, 263, 272-3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum P activities 275-7 275 palaces drinking & nightlife 282-3 153 Grand Palace (Peterhof) 195 food 278-82 Sotamuseo Maneesi 167 Kadriorg Palace 211 highlights 264-9 St Isaac’s Cathedral 195 Kungliga Slottet 152 itineraries 262 Statens Museum for Kunst Marble Palace 194 101 planning 262-3 Menshikov Palace 187 Stedelijk Museum 82 shopping 277-8 Presidential Palace (Tallinn) sights 270-5 Stroganov Palace 194 211 tourist information 283 Suomenlinna-Museo 167 Royal Palace (Amsterdam) Topographie des Terrors 49 78-9 transport 283 Van Gogh Museum 72-3 Royal Palace (Oslo) 119 Rīga 15, 222-37 225, 234 Vasamuseet 148-9 Schloss Charlottenburg 56-7 drinking & nightlife 237 Víkin Maritime Museum 275 Stroganov Palace 194 food 235-7 Vikingskipshuset 114-15 Winter Palace of Peter I 187 highlights 226-9 Whales of Iceland 275 Yusupov Palace 198 itineraries 224 music 23, 282 parks & gardens planning 224-5 Kadriorg 210-11 shopping 235 N Mikhailovsky Garden 191 sights 232-3 tourist information 237 National Museum (Reykjavík) Tiergarten 54 tours 235 264-5 Tivoli Gardens 94-5 transport 237 Ness of Brodgar 259 Vigelandsanlegget 119-22 walking tour 230-1, nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Vondelpark 78 230-1 Rīga Central Market 226-7 305 Peterhof 195 Rijksmuseum 78 000 Map pages S–Z INDEX 319

shopping 157 travel to/from Scandinavia S sights 152-6 312-13 Sachsenhausen Concentration tourist information 161 travel within Scandinavia 313 Camp 53 tours 156-7 safety 89, 308 transport 161 292 V walking tour 150-1, 150-1 vacations 311 saunas 176 Sumburgh Head 257 Van Gogh Museum 72-3 senior travellers 89 Suomenlinna 166-7 Vasamuseet 148-9 Shetland Islands 256-7 sustainable cruises 30-1 Viðey 281 shopping 24 swimming 276 Vikings Skara Brae 258 synagogues 52 history 290-1 smoking 312 museums 114-15, 264-5, 270, Sognefjorden 134-5 275 spas 218-19 T visas 16, 205, 312 St Ninian’s Isle 257 Tallinn 13, 206-21, 209, 216-17 St Petersburg 12, 180-205, 183, activities 218-19 196-7, 201, 202 drinking & nightlife 220-1 W drinking & nightlife 203-5 food 220 walking tours entertainment 204-5 highlights 210-11 Amsterdam 76-7, 76-7 food 200-3 itineraries 208 Berlin 46-7, 46-7 highlights 184-91 planning 208-9 Copenhagen 98-9, 98-9 itineraries 182 shopping 219 Gdańsk 246-7, 246-7 planning 182-3 sights 214-18 Helsinki 168-9, 168-9 shopping 200 tourist information 221 Oslo 116-17, 116-17 sights 194-9 tours 219 Rīga 230-1, 230-1 tourist information 205 transport 221 St Petersburg 192-3, 192-3 tours 199 walking tour 212-13, 212-13 Stockholm 150-1, 150-1 transport 205 taxis 313 Tallinn 212-13, 212-13 walking tour 192-3, 192-3 telephones services 311 weather 16, 20-2, 308 Stadshuset 152 theatres 198, 204, 205 weights 312 Stockholm 10, 144-61, 147, time zones 17, 311 whales 275, 276, 277, 302-3 154-5 tipping 310-11 White Nights 22, 199 drinking & nightlife 160-1 Tivoli Gardens 94-5 wildlife-watching 276, 277 food 157-60 Tjörnin 270 highlights 148-9 toilets 311 Z itineraries 146 tourist information 311-12 zoos 215-18 planning 146-7 train travel 313 320 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 321 Symbols & Map Key

Look for these symbols to quickly Find your best experiences with these identify listings: Great For... icons.

1 5 Sights Eating h Art & Culture v History 2 Activities 6 Drinking C Courses 3 Entertainment p Beaches r Local Life T Tours 7 Shopping a Budget f Nature & z 8 Festivals Information Wildlife & Events & Transport s Cafe/Coffee A Photo Op These symbols and abbreviations give m Cycling vital information for each listing: g Scenery Sustainable or green recommendation x Detour No payment required z Shopping u Drinking % Telephone g Bus number f Ferry n Short Trip h d Entertainment Opening hours j p Parking d Train Events l Sport n q Nonsmoking E English- a Air-conditioning language menu b Family Travel Walking i Internet access v Vegetarian c W Wi-fi access selection c k Food & Drink s Swimming pool Family-friendly o Winter Travel

Sights Points of Interest Information Transport Beach Bodysurfing Bank Airport Sanctuary Camping Embassy/Consulate BART station Buddhist Cafe Hospital/Medical Border crossing Castle/Palace Canoeing/Kayaking Internet Boston T station Christian Course/Tour Police Bus Confucian Diving Post Office Cable car/Funicular Hindu Drinking & Nightlife Telephone Cycling Islamic Eating Toilet Ferry Jain Entertainment Tourist Information Metro/MRT station Jewish Sento Hot Baths/ Other Information Monorail Monument Onsen Parking Museum/Gallery/ Shopping Geographic Petrol station Historic Building Skiing Beach Subway/S-Bahn/ Ruin Sleeping Gate Skytrain station Shinto Snorkelling Hut/Shelter Taxi Sikh Surfing Lighthouse Train station/Railway Taoist Swimming/Pool Lookout Tram Winery/Vineyard Walking Mountain/Volcano Tube Station Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Windsurfing Oasis Underground/ Other Sight Other Activity Park U-Bahn station Pass Other Transport Picnic Area Waterfall 322

Andrea Schulte-Peevers his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well Born and raised in Germany and educated in on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, distance to the moon and back in her visits to covering destinations across six . His some 75 countries. She has earned her living as travels have taken him from the mountains of Kam- a professional travel writer for over two decades chatka to remote island villages in , and and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www. and websites around the world. She also works as instagram.com/regisstlouis. a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, and Donna Wheeler the Islands. Despite a passion for her Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for home town, she packed her bags right after school, over ten years, including the Italy, Norway, Belgium, decamping first to London, then to Los Angeles, , Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Austral- where she haunted the hallowed halls of UCLA in ia titles. She is the author of Paris Precincts, and pursuit of a degree in . Equipped is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher with such highly sought-after credentials, she My Art Guides. She became a travel writer after fearlessly embarked on a career in journalism, soon various careers as a commissioning editor, creative getting tapped by Lonely Planet for her Germany director, digital producer and content strategist. expertise. Born and bred in Sydney, , Donna fell in love with ’s moody bluestone streets as Regis St Louis a teenage art student. She has divided her time between there and her beloved home town for over Regis grew up in a small town in the American two decades, along with residential stints in Turin, Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams Paris, Bordeaux, New , London and rural Ire- of travel – and he developed an early fascination land. Donna travels widely (and deeply) in Europe, with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent , the US and . 323

Abigail Blasi he’s now eaten his way across . He’s never happier than when on the road with his two A freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field. worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong and Copenha- gen. Lonely Planet have sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and Becky Ohlsen around Britain. She writes regularly for newspapers Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based and magazines, such as the Independent, the Te l - in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and egraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and children and they often come along for the ride. elsewhere for Lonely Planet. Becky grew up with a Twitter/Instagram: @abiwhere thick book of Swedish fairy tales illustrated by John Bauer, so the deep black forests of Norrland hold Cristian Bonetto particular fascination for her. Hiking through them, she’s alert for and tomtes (which, to the un- Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet trained eye, look just like big rocks). Though raised guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice in the mountains of Colorado, Becky has been ex- & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, ploring Sweden since childhood, while visiting her Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet grandparents and other relatives in Stockholm and work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and parts north. She’s thoroughly hooked on pickled design appear in numerous publications around herring and saffron ice cream but has nothing good the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corri- to say about Swedish beer. When she’s not cover- ere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, ing ground for LP, Becky is working on a book about you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV script- motorcycles and the paradoxical appeal of risk. writer slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Instagram: rexcat75. Leonid Ragozin Marc Di Duca Leonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent A travel author for the last decade, Marc has beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and worked for Lonely Planet in , Slovakia, spent 12 years voyaging through different parts Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Rail- foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. way, as well as writing and updating tens of other Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing guides for other publishers. When not on the road, largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new sons. home in Rīga.

Catherine Le Nevez Simon Richmond Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base specialised as a travel writer since the early aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries guide. He’s long since stopped count- and completing her of Creative Arts ing the number of guidebooks he’s researched and in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and written for the company, but countries covered postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, , along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics work has also appeared in numerous online and from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys print publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to tips is to travel without any expectations. see some of his photos and sketches. His travel features have been published in newspapers and Hugh McNaughtan magazines around the world, including in the UK’s A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant ap- Independent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and plications for visa applications, and turned his love Royal Geographical Society Magazine; and Austral- of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of ia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian Financial restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) Review Magazine. 324

Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With- in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and ) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football team or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Alexis Averbuck Oliver Berry Alexis Averbuck has travelled and lived all over Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from the world, from Sri Lanka to Ecuador, Zanzibar Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for and Antarctica. In recent years she’s been living more than a decade, covering destinations from on the Greek island of Hydra and exploring Cornwall to the , and has worked on her adopted homeland and adventuring along more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular Iceland’s surreal lava fields, sparkling fjords contributor to many newspapers and magazines, and tongues. A travel writer for over two including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a won several awards, including The Guardian year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Mag- books on her journeys through Asia, Europe and azine People’s Choice Award. His first trip abroad the . She’s also a painter – visit www. was to the south of France at the tender age of alexisaverbuck.com – and promotes travel and two, and since then his travels have carried him adventure on video and television. several times round the globe. More Writers STAY IN TOUCH LONELYPLANET.COM/CONTACT AUSTRALIA The Malt IRELAND Digital Depot, USA 124 Linden Street, UK 240 Blackfriars Road, Store, Level 3, 551 Swanston Roe Lane (off Thomas St), Oakland, CA 94607 London SE1 8NW St, Carlton, Victoria 3053 Digital Hub, Dublin 8, D08 % 510 250 6400, % 020 3771 5100, %03 8379 8000, TCV4 toll free 800 275 8555, fax 020 3771 5101 fax 03 8379 8111 fax 510 893 8572

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