Scandinavia & Northern Europe
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe Effortlessly chic cities, many with charming historic centres, contrast with soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban CRUISE PORTS design. Inspiring food and a full menu of seasons make Northern Europe a premium cruise destination. Stolid northern stereotypes dissolve in the region’s vibrant capitals. Crest-of-the-wave design can SCANDINAVIA be seen in many, backed by outstanding modern architecture, excellent museums and galleries, imaginative solutions for 21st-century urban living, internationally acclaimed restaurants and a night- life that fizzes along despite sometimes-hefty beer & NORTHERN prices. A palpable sense of history is present throughout: the Vikings dominated these seas, the Hanseatic trading cartel put port cities on the map in medieval EUROPE times, while the seismic impact of 20th-century events left deep scars throughout. You’ll rarely come across the word ‘ecotourism’ in northern Europe, but those values have long been A GUIDE TO PERFECT DAYS ON SHORE an important part of life here. Generally, green, sustainable solutions are a way of living, rather than a gimmick to attract visitors. Scandinavia, in particular, will likely be significantly affected by climate change and big efforts to reduce emissions are being made across the region. Travelling here, you’ll be struck by the excellent levels of environ- mental protection, the sensible ‘why don’t we do that back home’ impact-reducing strategies and the forward thinking so much in evidence. It makes for pleasurably enlightening travel. Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail soul-stirring coastal scenery, Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le remote wildernesses and Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, cutting-edge urban design Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Donna Wheeler Bergen, Norway (p126) ANDREY KHROBOSTOV/ALAMY © See Svalbard Inset Svalbard (Norway) North Pole 2 1 5 D (1000km) °E Victoria Island 0 500 km 0 250 miles 80°N Nordaustlandet Wilhelmøya Ny Ålesund \# Pyramiden \# GREENLAND Barentsøya \# Longyearbyen \# Contents \# Barentsburg Edgeøya Barents Sveagruva Sea 10°E Spitsbergen Greenland Hopen Plan Your Trip 2 Sea 5 0 200 km ° E ^# 0 100 miles Tromsø Murmansk Top 12 ........................ 4 Entertainment ..............88 Shopping ....................140 ^# Need to Know ..........16 Eating ..........................140 KOLA Hot Spots for... ........18 Drinking & Nightlife .... 142 PENINSULA Month by Month .....20 Copenhagen, Entertainment ............ 143 FINLAND Get Inspired ............ 23 Denmark 90 White Sea Local Life................. 24 ...at a Glance 92 Rovaniemi REYKJAVÍK #_ ICELAND ^# Choose Your Stockholm, Tivoli Gardens ����������� 94 (p260) Cruise...................... 26 Sweden 144 Designmuseum Norwegian Sustainable ...at a Glance 146 Sea Luleå ^# Danmark �������������������� 96 Cruising ..................30 Cobbles & Cosiness Vasamuseet �������������148 Family Time Walking Tour ������������� 98 Old Town Ashore .................... 32 Sights ..........................100 Walking Tour ������������150 ^# Tours ............................101 Sights .......................... 152 ^# Petrozavodsk SHETLAND Trondheim ^# Vaasa Shopping ....................104 Tours ........................... 156 ISLANDS Berlin, Germany 34 Sundsvall RUSSIA Eating ..........................105 Shopping .................... 157 (p256) ^# ...at a Glance 36 Drinking & Nightlife .... 107 Eating .......................... 157 Tampere ^# HELSINKI ORKNEYS ST PETERSBURG The Berlin Wall �����������38 Entertainment ............109 Drinking & Nightlife ....160 (p162) ^# ISLANDS NORWAY (p180) The Reichstag ����������� 42 (p258) BERGEN #_ STOCKHOLM Berlin Nightlife ��������� 44 Shetland (p126) ^# TALLINN OSLO (p144) #_ Historical Highlights Oslo, Norway 110 Helsinki, #_ (p206) (p110) #_ Tver ...at a Glance 112 Finland 162 Orkney ^# Walking Tour ������������� 46 ESTONIA ^# Vo ...at a Glance 164 Pskov lga Sights ............................48 #_ History on Bygdøy ��� 114 Gotland Tours ............................. 57 ^# MOSCOW All Along the Water- Suomenlinna ������������166 SCOTLAND SWEDEN RĪGA Shopping ...................... 57 Kristiansand #_ front Walking Tour ��� 116 Helsinki’s Art & Design (p222) Eating ............................58 LATVIA Sights ...........................118 Walking Tour ������������168 Glasgow Baltic Drinking & Nightlife ...... 61 NORTH ^# ^# Edinburgh ^# Smolensk Tours ........................... 122 Sights .......................... 170 ATLANTIC NORTHERN North Öland Sea LITHUANIA Entertainment ..............65 IRELAND Sea COPENHAGEN Shopping .................... 122 Tours ............................174 OCEAN Belfast VILNIUS Where to Stay ...............67 ^# (p90) #_^# Malmö Kaliningrad #_ Eating .......................... 123 Shopping .....................174 RUSSIA ^# ^# Douglas DENMARK Bornholm #_ MINSK Drinking & Nightlife .... 125 Eating .......................... 175 ^# Drinking & Nightlife .....177 DUBLIN #_ Amsterdam, the #]Manchester GDAŃSK BELARUS Entertainment ............ 178 IRELAND Hamburg AMSTERDAM ^# GERMANY (p238) Netherlands 68 Bergen, #] V Brest ...at a Glance 70 WALES Birmingham (p68) POLAND i ^# Norway 126 BERLIN stu #_ ENGLAND #_ #_ la ... at a Glance 128 St Petersburg, Cardiff ^# (p34) WARSAW #_KYIV Van Gogh Museum ����72 #_ NETHERLANDS Russia 180 LONDON Zhytomyr ^# Anne Frank Huis ��������74 Bryggen ��������������������130 Dresden ...at a Glance 182 BRUSSELS ^# Exploring the Jordaan KODE�������������������������132 ^# #_ Kraków English Lille ^# UKRAINE Walking Tour ��������������76 Channel BELGIUM ^# Lviv Exploring The Hermitage ���������184 #_ Sights ............................78 Rouen LUXEMBOURG PRAGUE Dn the Fjords �����������������134 Church of the ^# ies #_ CZECH ter Tours .............................83 MOLDOVA Sights .......................... 136 Saviour on the #_ REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Eating ............................84 PARIS Tisza CHIŞINĂU Activities ..................... 139 ^# Spilled Blood �����������190 Bay of Rennes BRATISLAVA ^# #_ ^# Drinking & Nightlife ......86 Munich #_ #_ Iaşi Tours ........................... 139 Biscay FRANCE ^# VIENNA HUNGARY L o i ROMANIA Odessa Nantes ^# re AUSTRIA #_ BUDAPEST Lyon ^# 3 * St Petersburg’s Rīga, Latvia 222 Shopping ....................252 Historic Heart ...at a Glance 224 Eating ..........................252 Walking Tour ������������192 Drinking & Nightlife ....255 Sights ..........................194 Rīga Central Tours ...........................199 Market ��������������������� 226 Shopping ................... 200 Alberta Iela ������������� 228 Shetland Eating ......................... 200 Art Nouveau Rīga Islands 256 Drinking & Nightlife ... 203 Walking Tour ����������� 230 Entertainment ........... 204 Sights ..........................232 Tours ...........................235 Orkney Islands 258 Shopping ....................235 Tallinn, Eating ..........................235 Estonia 206 Drinking & Nightlife ....237 Reykjavík, ...at a Glance 208 Iceland 260 ...at a Glance 262 Kadriorg �������������������210 Gdańsk, Tallinn’s Old Town Poland 238 National Museum ��� 264 Walking Tour ������������ 212 ...at a Glance 240 Blue Lagoon ������������ 266 Sights .......................... 214 Golden Circle ���������� 268 Activities ..................... 218 European Solidarity Sights ..........................270 Tours ........................... 219 Centre ���������������������� 242 Activities .....................275 Shopping .................... 219 Długi Targ ���������������� 244 Shopping ....................277 Eating ......................... 220 Along the Motława Eating ..........................278 Drinking & Nightlife ... 220 Walking Tour ����������� 246 Drinking & Nightlife ....282 Sights ..........................248 In Focus Survival Guide Scandinavia Today ...... 286 Directory A–Z .............. 308 History ......................... 288 Transport ...................... 312 Landscapes ................. 298 Index ............................. 315 Wildlife ..........................301 Food & Drink ................ 304 Geirangerfjord (p135), Norway TRPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 314 Behind the Scenes Acknowledgements This Book Climate map data adapted from Peel This first edition of Lonely Planet’s Cruise Ports Scandinavia MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA & Northern Europe guidebook was researched and written (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the by Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, Simon 11, 163344. Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis and Don- na Wheeler. This guidebook was produced by the following: Illustrations p188–9 by Javier Zarracina. Destination Editors Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Clifton Wilkinson, Branislava Vladisavljevic Product Editors Kathryn Rowan, Kate Mathews Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Clara Monitto Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Paul Harding, Victoria Harrison, Anne Mulvaney, Ross Taylor, Kira Tverskaya Assisting Book Designers Nicholas Colicchia, Virginia Moreno, Michael Weldon Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzie Thanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Liz Heynes, Alison Ridgway Send Us Your