Alameda, a Geographical History, by Imelda Merlin
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Alameda A Geographical History by Imelda Merlin Friends of the Alameda Free Library Alameda Museum Alameda, California 1 Copyright, 1977 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 77-73071 Cover picture: Fernside Oaks, Cohen Estate, ca. 1900. 2 FOREWORD My initial purpose in writing this book was to satisfy a partial requirement for a Master’s Degree in Geography from the University of California in Berkeley. But, fortunate is the student who enjoys the subject of his research. This slim volume is essentially the original manuscript, except for minor changes in the interest of greater accuracy, which was approved in 1964 by Drs. James Parsons, Gunther Barth and the late Carl Sauer. That it is being published now, perhaps as a response to a new awareness of and interest in our past, is due to the efforts of the “Friends of the Alameda Free Library” who have made a project of getting my thesis into print. I wish to thank the members of this organization and all others, whose continued interest and perseverance have made this publication possible. Imelda Merlin April, 1977 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The writer wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to the many individuals and institutions who gave substantial assistance in assembling much of the material treated in this thesis. Particular thanks are due to Dr. Clarence J. Glacken for suggesting the topic. The writer also greatly appreciates the interest and support rendered by the staff of the Alameda Free Library, especially Mrs. Hendrine Kleinjan, reference librarian, and Mrs. Myrtle Richards, curator of the Alameda Historical Society. The Engineers’ and other departments at the Alameda City Hall supplied valuable maps an information on the historical development of the city. The writer owes much to Messrs. Leland Brooks, Herman Kihn, and Rudolph Steinmetz of the Alameda Historical Society for their first-hand accounts covering much of Alameda’s history, and to Mrs. Carol Heche for the use of her grandfather’s diary. 3 Drs. Carl O. Sauer, James J. Parsons and Gunther Barth, members of the thesis committee, deserve special thanks for their painstaking evaluation and helpful criticism during the course of the writing. Also deserving of acknowledgement are the many friends and colleagues who assisted with photography and maps and offered suggestions useful to the development of the theme. I.M., 1964 4 Foreword to the fifth (ebook) edition: Ms. Merlin had transferred copyright to the Alameda Free Library, which had transferred it to the Alameda Museum. Publishing a new physical edition was evaluated, but the cost exceeded expected the return. Hence it was decided to make the book available on-line on the museum website. This book may not be published, either in whole or in part, for profit nor for free. However, it may be quoted for research, provided the source is identified. Pictures inserted into this document are low resolution on purpose. Please contact [email protected] for access to any of the pictures cited to be in control of the Alameda Historical Society. The other pictures are under copyright protection by the respective owners. The text is exactly as was originally written by Imelda Merlin, with the following exceptions: - change in font, which resulted in some lines ending on a different page number - added Alameda Museum to the cover page - cover picture credits on copyright page - p7 – lasts (instead of last) - p 31 – known (instead of know) - p 32 – grocery store (instead of grocery story) - p 35 – of a (instead of ofa) - p 37 – Estuary (instead of Esturary) - p 45 – Fig 12; inserted a color scan version of the Joseph Lee painting (commemorating the first San Francisco and Alameda Railroad train) instead of the black and white picture in the original book. - p 46 – Crowds (instead of Crowdes) - p 54 – could not (instead of could no); municipal (instead of municpal) - p 56 – six Americans (instead of six American) - p 66 – removed ‘not a school’ (was doubled) - p 69 – replaced photo picture with scan of the original picture - p 72 – Bay Farm Island (instead of Bay Fram Island) - p 77 – enterprising (instead of interprising) - p 83 – shipping (instead of shpping) - p 88 – 1872 (instead of 1972, The Encinal stopped appearing by the early 1900s) Myrna van Lunteren, Vice-President of the Board of the Alameda Museum, January-November, 2019. 5 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure Page 1. Well Log, Alameda High School ...................................................... 4 2. Bay Area Map .................................................................................. 6 3. “An almost tropical luxuriance of growth” ..................................... 7 4. Bay Area Meteorological Statistics for 1955 ............................... 10-11 5. “The Encinal,” 1850 ........................................................................ 12 6. “The foliage does not obscure their muscular look.” ...................... 13 7. Oak trees “running away.” ............................................................... 14 8. Map showing live oaks and marsh .................................................... 15 9. Encinal, 1852 .................................................................................. 25 10.Enci nal, 1869 .................................................................................. 30 11.House built in France and shipped around the Horn. ..................... 32 12.Artist’s conception of Cohen’s wharf .............................................. 39 13.Park Street was the main business district ..................................... 39 14.Rail Transportation, 1887 ............................................................... 41 15.Ferry boat the Newark ..................................................................... 42 16.One of the last ferries ..................................................................... 47 17.Destinations of Alameda Commuters ............................................. 48 18.Sp acious lawns, original live oaks ................................................... 58 19.“Beautiful houses,” enhanced by planting ...................................... 58 20.Sample lot sizes, and locations of tracts ....................................... 60 21.Sample lot sizes, 1880-1903 ......................................................... 61 22.Changes in names of Alameda Streets ........................................... 64 23.The home of Peter White ................................................................ 69 24.Encinal Yacht Club ........................................................................... 69 25.The famous Neptune Beach in 1925 .............................................. 70 27.Clark and Sons Pottery Works ........................................................ 76 28.Gardens north of Lincoln Avenue .................................................. 79 29.Alaska Packers Fleet at anchor ........................................................ 84 30.A typical “Square-rigger” ................................................................. 85 31.The Pacific Queen ........................................................................... 86 32.Encinal Terminals ............................................................................. 87 33.New Webster Street Tube completed ............................................. 91 34.Alameda, 1963 ............................................................................... 95 35.Existing Major Streets and Land Uses ............................................ 97 36.1960 Average Daily Traffic Volumes .............................................. 98 Note: Unless otherwise indicated, all 3x5 photographs are taken from the following sources: 3, 6, 7, 13, 18, 19, 24, and 27 are from Irvine; 12, 15, 16, 28, 29, 30, and 31 are from Shaw and Fisher; 8, 11, 23, 25, and the cover photograph are from the files of the Alameda Historical Society. 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................... Page I. THE PHYSICAL SETTING ........................................................................ 1 1. Flora and Fauna ................................................................................... 3 II. ABORIGINAL SETTLEMENT ....................................................................... 16 1. Alameda Mounds ............................................................................... 19 III. FROM SPANISH DONS TO ANGLO-SAXONS .............................................. 22 1. The Peralta Family ............................................................................... 22 2. Chipman and Auginbaugh .................................................................... 23 3. Squatters, “Sharks,” and Lawsuits ...................................................... 27 IV. THE ENCINAL’S THREE VILLAGES .............................................................. 31 1. The Town of Alameda .......................................................................... 31 2. “Encinal and Lands Adjacent” .............................................................. 35 3. “Peralta Landing,” or “Woodstock” ..................................................... 35 V. COMMUNICATION AND TRANSPORTATION ................................................ 38 1. Alameda’s First Newspaper ................................................................. 38 2. The Two Railroads ............................................................................... 40 3. The Horse Cars ...................................................................................