An Indonesian-Dutch Influenced Traditional Food

Home , Dutch East Indies, History of Indonesia, Klappertaart, Kue, Native Indonesians

JEF139_proof ■ 29 December 2017 ■ 1/6

Journal of Ethnic Foods xx (2017) 1e6

55 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect 56 57 Journal of Ethnic Foods 58 59 60 journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net 61 62 63 Original Article 64 * 65 1 Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food 66 2 67 3 *, 1 2 3 4 68 Q17 Chrisfella Cokrro Handoyo , Clarissa , Grace Claudia , Milka , 4 5 69 , Syahnazia Adinda Firdayanti 5 Q1 2 70 Q3,4 6 Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of Life Science Surya University, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia 71 7 72 8 73 9 Q7 article info abstract 74 10 75 11 Article history: As one of the most ethnically diverse societies, Indonesia is well known for its cultural diversity such as 76 12 Received 16 October 2017 traditional practices and customs. Some of them are historically affected by colonization. Indonesia 77 13 Received in revised form experienced a colonial history under the Dutch rule for a long time. It is considered as a long colonial 5 December 2017 78 14 period that has left huge influences on various aspects of Indonesian people's lives and Indonesian Accepted 6 December 2017 79 cuisine. As a result of colonization, many Dutch tribes set foot in many regions of Indonesia. At that time, 15 Available online xxx 80 the Dutch traders who came to Manado, North Celebes, introduced a recipe of a dish that has later been 16 81 combined with Indonesian ingredients, such as coconut and spices. This study aims to analyze 17 Keywords: the influence of the Dutch culture on Indonesian dish, klappertaart. Klappertaart in Indonesian literally 82 18 Culture means “kue kelapa” or coconut cake that is usually served during special events. The cake is made from 83 19 Dutch Indonesia local ingredients such as coconut, flour, butter, eggs, milk, cinnamon, and raisins. That is what makes 84 20 Klappertaart klappertaart associated with Manado. The cake can be either baked or steamed. Nowadays, klappertaart is 85 21 Manado not only found in Manado but is also widely spread in major cities in Indonesia. 86 22 © 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the 87 23 CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 88 24 89 25 90 26 91 27 Introduction Every region or tribe definitely has distinct dishes to whet people's 92 28 appetite. (Figs. 1e4) 93 29 Indonesia is an archipelago country that consists of more than Indonesian diversity is not fully due to original indigenous 94 30 Q8 Q9 1,300 ethnic tribes showing cultural diversity such as languages, cultures. Many of the cultures have been influenced by the Western 95 31 food, and arts [1]. Its cultural diversity also includes local dishes world, especially Europe. Before independence, Indonesia was un- 96 32 spread in every region. Traditional dishes are a legacy of a tribe in a der the Dutch rule. In the early 20th century, many Dutch people 97 33 specific region [2]. It may be original Indonesian cuisine or the ones settled in some regions in Indonesia such as Java, Sumatra, and 98 34 that have been influenced by or adopted from other countries. other islands [3]. The impacts of colonization were always seen as 99 35 disastrous ones, but they rather left positive influence on various 100 36 aspects such as dances and traditional dishes. 101 37 102 * Statement: All authors have contributed to the paper and have never submitted Indonesian traditional dishes that have been influenced by the 38 103 the manuscript, in whole or in part, to other journals. Dutch are croquet, nastar (pineapple tart), klappertaart (coconut 39 Q6 * Corresponding author. Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of cake), and kastengel (cheese stick). One example of the accultura- 104 40 Life Science Surya University, Gading Serpong Boulevard Street Kav. M5/21, Curug tion of Dutch and Indonesian dishes is klappertaart. It is originated 105 41 Q5 Sangereng, Kelapa Dua, Tangerang, Banten, 15810, Indonesia. from North Celebes. Klappertaart is derived from words “klapper” 106 42 E-mail addresses: [email protected] (C.C. Handoyo), chaclarissa17@ and “tart”, which are Indonesian and Dutch, respectively. “Klapper” 107 43 gmail.com (Clarissa), [email protected] (G. Claudia), [email protected] (Milka), [email protected] (S.A. Firdayanti). was originally taken from the word “kelapa” or coconut that was 108 44 1 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, spelled as klapper by the Dutch people at that time, whereas “taart” 109 45 Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ6282117713774. 110 2 is a Dutch word that refers to a cake. Klappertaart, which means 46 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, 111 Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ622121499466. coconut cake that is originated from Manado, becomes a favorite 47 112 3 Home address: Kelapa Molek 7 W2/20, Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta 14250, dessert because it tastes sweet and savory. In the colonialism 48 Indonesia. Phone number: þ6287881680295. period, the Dutch realized that Indonesians had a very large num- 113 49 4 fl Home address: Laguna Apartment, 22th oor, C-12, Penjaringan, Pluit, North ber of coconut farms. The Dutch women experimented with young 114 50 Jakarta 14450, Indonesia. Phone number: þ62817700896. 115 5 coconut meat in their tart recipe. Klappertaart is usually consumed 51 Home address: Telaga Golf, Cluster Great Britain G7/2, Sawangan, Depok 16511, 116 Indonesia. Phone number: þ6281519137819. by the upper middle class Dutch families in the East Indies. This 52 117 53 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002 118 54 2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ 119 licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch inﬂuenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002 JEF139_proof ■ 29 December 2017 ■ 2/6

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1 66 2 67 3 68 4 69 5 70 6 71 7 72 8 73 9 74 10 75 11 76 12 77 13 78 14 79 15 80 16 81 17 82 18 83 19 84 20 85 21 86 22 87 23 88 24 89 25 90 26 91 27 92 28 93 29 94 30 95 31 96 32 97 33 98 34 99 35 100 36 101 37 102 38 103 39 104 40 105 41 106 42 107 43 108 44 109 45 110 Fig. 1. (A) Rijsttafel or rice table. The word is given by the Dutch to Indonesian eating habit. All the dishes are served all at once in a table. In rijsttafel, there are appetizers, main 46 111 course, and desserts. In Indonesia, all the dishes can be eaten anytime not following the order of full course dinner. (B) The cover of the food recipes book made by the Dutch 47 women. (C) Inside the book of food recipes. Q11,12 112 48 113 49 114 50 recipe was recognized in Manado because of the native Indonesian productivity around 91 tons in a year (65%). At that time, coconuts 115 51 maids who worked for the Dutch families learned the tart recipe, were used for copra, oil, coconut milk, and others [4]. 116 52 the Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the The Dutch women engaged in daily activities such as cooking 117 53 Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to and tailoring. They also liked to write books on food recipes. They 118 54 people's curiosity on how to make it. were aware that coconut is one of the most productive commod- 119 55 ities in Manado. Relating to that, they had intention to create a dish 120 56 Klappertaart out of coconut. After some attempts, they ﬁnally created a proper 121 57 dish called “klappertaart” or coconut cake [5]. This recipe spread in 122 58 Klappertaart is one of the local dishes originated from North some ways, as the Dutch women did not do all cooking. If they had 123 59 Celebes, Manado. The dish is made from coconut, walnuts, and to make cakes for their husbands, native Indonesian maids usually 124 60 raisins, and it tastes sweet and savory. Klappertaart was created were asked to do that. In addition, some of the natives classiﬁed as 125 61 experimentally by elite Dutch women of that time. They realized upper class had the chance to get around and act like the Dutch did. 126 62 that Indonesia had a very large number of coconut farms. According They eventually were curious about the cake and got the recipe 127 63 to the Directorate of History and Traditional Values, in 1984e1985, from the Dutch right away. The spread of the recipe also happened 128 64 the most productive commodities were coconut, coffee, and clove. through its sales in Indonesia, so the natives were intrigued to learn 129 65 According to the data, coconut crops reached the highest and make it at home. 130

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1 66 2 67 3 68 4 69 5 70 6 71 7 72 8 73 9 74 10 75 11 76 12 77 13 78 14 79 15 80 16 81 17 82 18 83 19 84 20 85 21 86 22 87 23 88 24 89 25 90 26 91 27 92 28 93 29 94 30 95 31 96 32 97 33 98 34 99 35 100 36 101 37 102 103 38 Fig. 2. Location of Manado. It is located in North Celebes (Sulawesi Island), Indonesia. Manado is surrounded by the coastline. Manado is one of the cities in Indonesia that is chosen 39 by the Dutch to get settled. Culture in Manado is influenced by the Dutch. 104 40 105 41 106 42 Q10 Klappertaart is a component of “rijsttafel” or “rice table”, a Dutch historiography, the term of cultivation system was applied because 107 43 term that means an elaborate meal for following the presentation that policy was dominant on putting native people into hardships. 108 44 of many Indonesian side dishes served in a table all at once. The During the implementation, this system was dominated by politics 109 45 Dutch colonials usually had klappertaart as a dessert, whereas and humanity disregard [7]. 110 46 native Indonesians did not have any array setting and had the cake The Dutch colonization in Manado has much affected sur- 111 47 whenever they like. rounding people's lives at first place. The reason why the people 112 48 were acceptable to the new culture is because they were well 113 49 History of Manado and Dutch cultural influence known for their high tolerance toward ethnic and religion 114 50 diversity and acceptance of foreign culture. This is proved by 115 51 According to the Communication and Informatics Department prevalence of many Dutch cultural habits in Manado which were 116 52 of City of Manado [6], Manado is the capital city of the North Cel- adopted since the colonization, such as housing and yard setting, 117 53 ebes, Indonesia. Manado is the second largest city in Celebes after habitual parties, drinks, foods, and children naming (use of family 118 54 Makassar. The vast majority of the population is Minahasa tribe name). The correlation between Minahasa identity and the influ- 119 55 because Manado is a part of Minahasa region. The people use ence of the Dutch colonization has been termed Twapro, the 120 56 Manado language for daily communication; its dialect is from local acronym of Twalfde Provincie van Netherlandsch (the 12th province 121 57 language, Dutch, Portuguese, and Spain because the region was of the Netherlands). This term once came to be problematic Q13 122 58 under these three countries’ rule. regarding Minahasa people identities in Indonesia. They were 123 59 Manado was set up to be a defense of Verenigde Oost-Indiesche identified as the being most influenced by the Dutch culture in all 124 60 Compagnie (VOC) since 1682 after Spain took over the region. live aspects above all other regions in Indonesia [8]. 125 61 VOC built a fortress and warehouse to handle Spain and Ternate. In the early 19th century, during the Dutch colonization, Min- 126 62 VOC established a cultivation system called Cultuurstelsel that ahasa people were enlightened and introduced to Christianization 127 63 required a portion of agricultural production to be devoted to and education. The Dutch presence also trained the locals about 128 64 Q12 exporting crops in VOC charge. VOC considered that North Celebes pig and cow livestock. The education that Minahasa people 129 65 was a strategist trading route. But, in the Indonesian conventional attained was a Western style education that taught the essence of 130

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1 66 2 67 3 68 4 69 5 70 6 71 7 72 8 73 9 74 10 75 11 76 12 77 13 78 14 79 15 80 16 81 17 82 18 83 19 Fig. 3. The process of making klappertaart. (A) Dough of klappertaart. (B) The addition of young coconut meat to the dough. (C) The dough is ready to be baked. (D) The dough is put 84 20 into the oven and baked at 160C for 15 minutes. (E) The addition of meringue, raisins, and walnuts on the top of the half-baked klappertaart. (F) The klappertaart is ready to be 85 21 served after another 20 minutes of baking. 86 22 87 23 88 24 89 25 90 26 91 27 92 28 93 29 94 30 95 31 96 32 97 33 98 34 99 35 100 36 101 37 102 38 103 Fig. 4. Manado is rich in natural resources. One of the commodities abundantly available in Manado is coconut. In 2014, North Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconut. The 39 meat of young coconut is used as an ingredient in preparing klappertaart. Coconuts have become exported commodities to several countries. The Netherlands is one of the 104 40 importers. 105 41 106 42 107 43 openness, so Minahasa people tended to be open for foreign Klappertaart recipe gains its wide recognition in Indonesia 108 44 culture. because of native Indonesian maids who worked for elite Dutch 109 45 families, Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with 110 46 Preparing klappertaart the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to 111 47 people's curiosity on how to make it. Many Dutch women also 112 48 The ingredients used in the preparation of klappertaart are five include the klappertaart recipe in their cook book [4]. 113 49 young coconuts, three to four tablespoons of plain flour, half a 114 50 bottle of fresh milk, three to four spoons of sugar, eight egg yolks, Brief history of klappertaart 115 51 four tablespoons of butter, eight egg whites, four tablespoons of 116 52 raisins, and cinnamon powder, and the cooking equipment used is During the era of the Second World War, the Dutch's opinion 117 53 pan, oven, and spatula. toward desserts and snacks was different. Desserts are considered 118 54 The process of preparing klappertaart begins with preheating more symbolic as they take a long time to be prepared and have 119 55 the pan and melting the butter. Then, some flour, milk, and sugar complicated methods and ingredients, whereas it is the other way 120 56 are added and mixed together. An egg yolk was added along with a around for the snacks. Therefore, by looking at the former aspects, 121 57 ladle of the previous mixture into a separate bowl. Then, the con- klappertaart is considered a dessert as it has complicated methods 122 58 tents of the mixture are mixed until a thick consistency is obtained and ingredients. In addition, during the Second World War, desserts 123 59 and then some raisins and chopped coconut meat are added into were only served during special occasions [9] as klappertaart had 124 60 the mixture. The stove is turned off, and the mixture is poured into rare and expensive ingredients. Nevertheless, in the era of post- 125 61 the baking pan. The mixture is baked for 15 minutes at 320F World War II, desserts became less fancy and started to be served 126 62 (160C). While the mixture is being baked, the egg whites and sugar more often. Nowadays, klappertaart has become Indonesians' fa- 127 63 are beaten until it becomes firm and stiff. After 15 minutes, the cake vorite dessert to be served during occasions such as, family gath- 128 64 is taken out, the egg whites mixture is added on top, and it is baked erings or birthday parties. Moreover, klappertaart is also sold as a 129 65 for another 20 minutes. common dessert. 130

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1 The main ingredient of klappertaart is the meat of young coco- Therefore, almond is considered as a valuable and important 66 2 nut. This is because there are lots of coconut trees grown in Celebes. commodity which needs to be developed [24]. 67 3 According to North Celebes Central Agency on Statistics (Badan 68 4 Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara) [10], Celebes produced Conclusion 69 5 284.33027 tons of coconuts in 2014. This makes coconuts Indo- 70 6 nesia's most exported commodity [11], whereas coconuts are the The Dutch colonization in Indonesia also brings positive impacts 71 7 most imported commodity in the Netherlands [12]. to the country, and klappertaart is one of them. It is acculturation 72 fl 8 In addition, one of klappertaart's main ingredients is our, between Indonesia and the Netherlands in North Celebes. Klap- 73 fi 9 which is made from wheat. Wheat is rst introduced in Indonesia pertaart recipe is passed on from the Dutch people to native In- 74 th 10 around the beginning of 18 century during the Dutch coloniza- donesians who worked for them or were friends with them. 75 11 tion. At that time, wheat is cultivated in a land >900 m above the 76 Klappertaart was served during special occasions due to how e 12 sea level with the average optimum temperature of 72 75 F, so expensive its ingredients were back in those days. But nowadays, 77 13 that the European citizens in Indonesia can have enough food klappertaart has become a part of the Indonesian culture, and it is 78 14 supplies [13]. The consumption of wheat (flour, for instance) by 79 now easier to find. Q16 15 the Dutch was a very common habit, and Indonesians started to 80 16 adapt to this kind of habit eventually. Therefore, flour is included 81 17 as an ingredient to develop the texture of klappertaart. Moreover, Acknowledgment 82 18 several types of flours, such as corn starch and custard [14], were 83 19 used as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. The purpose of We would like to thank Dr. Jugiarie Soegiarto, M. Hum, lecturer 84 20 combining several types of flour is to create that moist and soft of Faculty of Humanity, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, 85 21 texture in the klappertaart. Indonesia, and Mr. Andreas Maryoto as journalist and humanist for 86 22 The type of dairy product included in klappertaart is milk. providing advice in the process of writing this research entitled 87 “ e fl ” 23 Nevertheless, the consumption of dairy product is not adapted from Klappertaart: an Indonesian Dutch in uence traditional food . 88 We would also like to thank Dr. Albert Kuhon, the lecturer of Cul- 24 Q15 the Indonesian culture. Indonesians consume less dairy compared 89 25 with other ASEAN countries [15]. According to Morey [16], 90% of tural Food Studies, Universitas Surya, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia. 90 26 dairy production is located in West Java. Other regions of dairy 91 27 production are Malang, Pasuruan, Boyolali, Semarang, and Ban- References 92 28 dung, whereas such production does not exist in North Celebes 93 29 according to the data published by the Directorate of Animal Hus- [1] Badan Pusat Statistik. Kewarganegaraan, Suku Bangsa, Agama, dan Bahasa 94 Sehari-hari Penduduk Indonesia - Hasil Sensus Penduduk 2010. Jakarta: 30 bandry [17]. This case has shown that dairy product is very rare in Central Bureau of Statistics; 2010. 95 31 North Celebes, especially during those times when the Dutch [2] Sabana S. Nilai Estetis Pada Kemasan Makanan Tradisional Yogyakarta. J Vis 96 32 people settled in Manado. Therefore, it can be said that the inclu- Art Des 2007;1:10e25. 97 [3] Brown C. A Short History of Indonesia: the Unlikely Nation? 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Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch inﬂuenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002