AFRICAN PRINTS PLUMBING ITS HERITAGE, DUTCH FIRM GREY STROKE VLISCO LAUNCHES ELIE TAHARI UNVEILS A NEW DENIM BRAND, GREYWIRE, A LINE OF LUXURY ACCESSORIES. PAGE 8 WITH JEANSWEAR VETERAN MICHAEL PRESS. PAGE 9

PROFITS RISE 7.6% Prada Stays Cautious Despite Strong Half

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Prada SpA had a strong first half — but is more cautious about the second. Lifted by sales at its directly operated stores and led by double-digit growth in Asia-Pacifi c and the WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Americas, Prada reported a 7.6 percent rise in net profi t to 308.2 million euros, or $400.6 million, in the WWD six months ended July 31, compared with 286.4 mil- lion euros, or $369.4 million, in the same period last year. Revenues climbed 11.7 percent to 1.73 billion euros, or $2.25 billion, compared with 1.54 billion euros, or $1.97 billion, last year. The growth came despite the strength of the euro against the U.S. dollar and Japanese yen, continued weak economies in some regions and tough compari- sons from a year earlier. All fi gures have been convert- ed at average exchange rates for the period in question. On Tuesday, Prada shares closed down 0.7 percent to 79.40 Hong Kong dollars, or $10.23 at current ex- Girl With change, on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. “We are satisfi ed with the results achieved in the fi rst half of 2013,” said Patrizio Bertelli, chief execu- tive offi cer of Prada SpA. “Revenues have increased in all geographical areas where the group operates and we have further improved our operating margins.” The Pearls The executive said Prada’s business model has en- abled the company “effectively to face the challenges Simone Rocha’s stellar thrown down by an international economic environ- spring collection was ment which remains uncertain and extremely vola- tile. The objectives achieved to date, the fl exibility of an elegant subversion SPRING 2014 our organizational structure and constant monitoring of Irish propriety. of the markets mean we can look ahead with confi - Her white dress LONDON dence to the near future.” The international volatility Bertelli referred to im- with pearls and COLLECTIONS pacted Prada’s sales late last month and may further deconstructed ruffl es complicate results in the second half. “It was a fairly would make an edgy good August organically and like for like, but interna- tional tension affected the last couple of weeks and alternative to classic retained tourists from shopping,” said chief fi nancial communion attire. For more on SEE PAGE 8 London, see pages 4 to 6. Luxury’s Digital Divide

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

THE LUXURY SEGMENT is playing to the e-com- merce extremes. On one hand there are the brands — such as Gucci, Hermès, Burberry, Missoni and others — that are actively courting customers through their own and third-party e-commerce sites, selling everything from $5,000 furs to $100 iPhone cases. On the other side, there are those who want to keep luxe in the rarefi ed world of the high-end boutique or department stores, such as Chanel and Prada. When this past spring WWD asked Miuccia Prada, chairperson and creative director of Prada Group, about the company’s conservative e-commerce stance, the designer didn’t hold back. “Yes, we don’t like it,” she said. “I don’t care. My husband [chief executive offi cer Patrizio Bertelli] hates it and we think for lux- ury it’s not right.” Prada’s accessories do have a robust e-commerce presence worldwide — even on prada.com — but ready-to-wear is another story. “It’s good in countries that don’t have the shop near- by,” she said. “[Otherwise] the choosing and sending home is too complicated. Personally, I’m not interested.” The pressure for brands to sell online might only increase as e-commerce booms and the “O” word — omnichannel — comes to defi ne retail more and more. The long-term question is: Can brands afford to remain aloof from online? Federico Marchetti, founder and ceo of Yoox Group, which operates 36 monobrand designer shops PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013

Sycamore Stake Lifts Aéropostale THE BRIEFING BOX LLC, which is controlled by then the hypothetical per-share IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG Sycamore, the stake held by the acquisition price would be $10 to private equity firm is nearly 6.3 take Aéropostale private. SHARES OF Aéropostale Inc. million shares. The filing said the Sycamore has a history of spe- jumped 18.1 percent to $10.17 on shares were acquired because of cializing in the retail and apparel hopes that Sycamore Partners, the belief that the stock is “an at- sectors. It previously had a stake Alexa Chung on the after disclosing it took nearly an tractive investment.” in Talbots back in 2011 and then, street in London. For 8 percent stake in the teen retail- The company also said in the after months of negotiation, took more, see WWD.com. er, would take the chain private. filing — using boilerplate lan- the retailer private in 2012 in a deal Sources told WWD that guage — that there may be dis- valued at $369 million. Earlier this Sycamore is considering cussions with the retailer’s board year, Sycamore acquired teen retail- Aéropostale as its next possible concerning the chain’s assets, er Hot Topic Inc. for $600 million. takeover target. capitalization, financial condition Sycamore has been active The stake was disclosed in a and future plans. prowling for deals. It had lengthy regulatory filing, a Form 13-D, In addition, Stifel soft-lines discussions with Australian surf with the Securities and Exchange retail analyst Richard Jaffe brand Billabong, although that Commission on Tuesday. speculated in a research note didn’t result in any transaction, and Securities rules require firms Tuesday that Sycamore, through now has joined with KKR & Co. DABROWSKI

to disclose whenever they take a Hummingbird, “will attempt to for a combined bid for The Jones KUBA stake that is more than 5 percent take the company private.” Jaffe Group Inc., having made a first- BY and become what is then called a added that if one assumes the round offer in the summer. Second- “beneficial owner.” same multiple as The Talbots round bids in the Jones asset sale PHOTO In the filing by Hummingbird Inc.’s going-private transaction, are due at the end of the month. Prada, lifted by sales at its directly operated stores and led by double-digit growth in Asia-Pacific and the Americas, reported a 7.6 percent rise in net profit in the first half. Page 1 Gores Seeking J.Mendel Partner The luxury segment is playing to the e-commerce extremes, Jeffrey Schwartz said, “There are many, probably with some brands courting customers online, while others By EVAN CLARK hundreds, of fashion companies that are run by very talented creative people, but they are not as want to keep luxe in high-end boutiques. Page 1 THE GORES GROUP is looking to team up at J.Mendel. focused on running their businesses for profitability Gores hired Barclays this summer to test the as they are for designing clothes.” Buyers voice their opinion as far as their favorite trends and market for new investors in the designer brand, ac- The private equity firm, which has about $3.6 bil- collections at London Fashion Week. Page 6 cording to two financial sources. Barclays declined lion in assets under management, went on to invest to comment and it is not clear how the search has in junior lifestyle brand Big Strike Inc., Mexx and Vlisco is launching a range of handbags and scarves that it progressed, but the bank started sending out feelers contemporary brand Cynthia Vincent. hopes will accelerate its recent transformation into a nascent to would-be investors a few months ago. On its Web site, Gores lists a number of “initiatives” luxury brand. Page 8 “The Gores Group is committed to the long- at J.Mendel, including “turned declining sales trajecto- term development of the house of J.Mendel,” said ry to positive cash flow” and “refocused ready-to-wear Elie Tahari has brought on Michael Press to head a new a spokesman for the private equity firm. “Following business and expanded accessories line.” denim venture, dubbed Greywire, as president. Page 9 the momentum that the house is currently ex- Mendel continued on as chief executive officer, periencing — with the opening of a flagship on chief designer and “a substantial shareholder” in Coty Inc. chief executive officer Michele Scannavini kicked off [Manhattan’s] Madison Avenue, the launch of hand- the company when Gores bought in. Last month, the beauty firm’s first earnings call as a public company with a bags and the arrival of a new ceo working along former Louis Vuitton executive Marc Durie joined plan for the future. Page 9 side Gilles Mendel — we are exploring the possi- the company as president and ceo. He also assumed bility of a strategic minority investor, which would the responsibilities of Susan Sokol, who exited the Nancy Gibbs was named managing editor of Time magazine help us to accelerate the development of the brand firm in February as president and chief operating Tuesday, succeeding Richard Stengel, who was nominated on and increase its retail footprint.” officer after a five-year run. the same day for an Obama administration post. Page 10 Los Angeles-based Gores bought into J.Mendel J.Mendel’s wholesale and retail sales total an es- in Aug. 2010. At the time, Gores managing director timated $30 million. “Valentino: Objects of Couture” captures the accessories output of the house’s current creative directors. Page 10

Sentenced to 26 years in prison for arranging her ex-husband Browne, Posen Design Luxury Cars Maurizio Gucci’s murder in 1995, Patrizia Reggiani could perhaps soon be a free woman — sort of. Page 11 designing his car with a light-silver, matte finish By JEAN E. PALMIERI in the front and ending in dark gray with a high- Simon Doonan discussed New York Fashion Week and his gloss finish at the rear. The interior includes vel- favorite designers at Manhattan’s 92Y Monday. Page 12 THOM BROWNE’S version has a mirrored silver vet, shagreen and leather in rich shades of red that exterior and red, white and blue stripes on the in- mimic Posen’s red-carpet fashions. side. Zac Posen chose an ombré tone for outside Posen chose the ombré effect to “emphasize the ON WWD.COM and dashes of maroon sparkles for the interior. movement of the car. It’s never been done before No, these aren’t the latest designs for spring — and was very challenging, but we experimented THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto they’re one-of-a-kind designer edition 2014 Infiniti Q50 and finally figured out how to do it with over 30 the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from London cars that the designers created for Gilt and Infiniti. coats of paint. It felt sleek and sultry.” Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. The luxury sedans, which Both vehicles also offer a are priced at $75,000 each, will surprise twist. In the trunk of CORRECTION be sold on Gilt.com on Dec. 12 the Thom Browne car are two with a portion of the proceeds custom-made trunks with a Robert J. Cassou, who died on Sept. 10, is survived by his wife benefiting St. Jude Children’s leather exterior accented with Barbara; two daughters Christine and Nicole, and son Alex. Research Hospital, a char- his signature patriotic stripe One of the children was misidentified in an obituary that ap- ity personally selected by both and the full-blown red, white peared on Sept. 17, page 12. designers. The buyers will also and blue interior pattern. receive $10,000 of shopping The Thom Posen said he chose to “pimp TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS credit on Gilt as well as a style the ride” by etching his name [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Browne car. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. consultation. into the back window. “I gave COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “They wanted a men’s de- it a personal wink,” he said. VOLUME 206, NO. 58. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and signer and a women’s designer For those not able to pony two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance and I was the lucky men’s de- up $75,000 for the cars, the Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, signer,” said Browne, who was designers created comple- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, pleased to have the “flexibil- mentary limited-edition ac- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax ity to do something different. cessories. Browne’s is a solid Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North [I was able to] marry my collec- sterling silver personal card Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please tion with the Infiniti and cre- case with a red, white and write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or ate a very masculine car.” The blue stripe that will retail for inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine chrome exterior is as reflective $650 and Posen’s is a smart- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription Zac Posen’s design. term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. as a mirror and was designed phone clutch in a red that You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt as a playful way to “reflect the matches the car. The bag will of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request individuality of the customer,” Browne said. “I went sell for $250. Only 100 of the card cases have been for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at into this project almost as if I was designing a be- produced and there will be 350 of the clutches. Both www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that spoke suit. Everything is made-to-measure, from will also be available for sale on Gilt.com on Dec. 12. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at selecting the materials and colors, to tailoring the The cars will be showcased at five Gilt City shop- P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED upholstery to fit the curves and lines of the interior, ping events this fall in special concept rooms that ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER and also making sure that the hallmarks of my de- were also designed by Posen and Browne. The road UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR sign aesthetic are still reflected throughout.” show kicks off in Dallas on Sept. 28 and then travels CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Posen pushed the envelope even further by to Chicago, New York, Miami and Los Angeles. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. THE GLOBAL WHOLESALE MARKETPLACE

where brands and retailers do business jooraccess.com 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013

Simone Rocha Thomas Tait

Maria Grachvogel Ryan Lo London Collections

LACED WITH NOSTALGIA, FOR MORE REVIEWS CHARM, EXAGGERATION AND IMAGES, SEE AND PERFORMANCE, THE WWD.com/ LONDON COLLECTIONS runway. CLOSED ON A LIVELY NOTE.

Simone Rocha: Simone Rocha messy tulle. But Rocha held a spell with its strange colors gold buttons, and a white lace FASHION EAST made excellent work of her her focus, developing her own — cement gray, acid green and slipdress with a matching Irish roots, drawing on the way of lacing the proper with pomegranate, always paired detached collar that resembled Ryan Lo: Ryan Lo’s second western side of the island — pretty perversion. with white — and unusual a Victorian nightgown. outing at Fashion East was as Connemara — its Catholic elements, such as wet-look Some of the long dresses, brilliantly bonkers as his first, traditions and seaside Thomas Tait: The floor-length nylon fabrics. There were with their gingham sleeves, but here with a new maturity to landscape inspiring a collection anorak with its dramatic bubble whimsical touches, too, in the red-and-black flower and vine it. Opening with a gold tweed of beautiful melancholy. back and drifting featherweight form of wispy feathers drifting embroidery, verged on the blazer and delicate cream It was Rocha’s finest work hem said it all: Thomas Tait is a from the hem or armholes of folksy, but the final exit — an skirt appliquéd with laser-cut yet, an elevation of her girlish young Olympian when it comes shell tops, the throat latch of a elegant embroidered gown and flowers, he showed that he’s signatures to the grown up via to straddling athletic verve and leather jacket, or an earring. gold corset — was something capable of dressing grown-up sophisticated cuts and fabrics. couture refinement. Tait is building a unique the young Elizabeth I might women as well as kooky fashion Alluding to the church- The Canadian transplant fashion vocabulary and have worn for a daytime girls, though he leaned toward going rites of mourning and also excels at modern tailoring, could be London’s next romp around the grounds of the latter. communion, Rocha worked something seen on few London breakthrough talent. Greenwich Palace. Romantic fantasy was the mostly in black and white runways. He opened with a theme: a girl waiting for the with moments of mossy green white, oversize garage-man Meadham Kirchhoff: Edward Maria Grachvogel: An exercise man of her dreams in her and gold. jacket with defined shoulders Meadham and Benjamin in artful serenity, Maria dream home, wearing frothily Classic silhouettes — and a beefy collar to cut the Kirchhoff ’s shows often have an Grachvogel’s spring collection kitsch clothes. There were structured dresses with full wind. He slyly incorporated eerie, theatrical air about them, practically floated down the kawaii knits with strawberry, skirts and tailoring — were other subtle activewear whether a whiff of “The Turn runway. Ultralight Egyptian lamb and pig motifs, and a subverted with drooping, references into his minimalist of the Screw,” a nod to “The cotton was wrapped and flared pink and yellow fur stripe deconstructed ruffles, and fashion universe — a mesh Addams Family” or the odd draped into wide-leg skirt worn with a lace camisole typically conservative pearls funnel neck on a crisp T-shirt; historical reference. jumpsuits, smock dresses top that was pure frivolous fun. were strategically placed on a silver zip on a loose bomber This season’s show, with and pant-skirt hybrids, all collars, cuffs and ruffles for a jacket; racing stripes on sleek its miles of lace and ruffles cut with ample breathing Ashley Williams: Ashley modern edge. biker leathers, and a cycling and models with long baloney room. Whether done in Williams flexed her muscles Rei Kawakubo’s influence length for slim shorts with curls and wide-brimmed solids — aqua blue, clay and for her second Fashion East was obvious, particularly in the jeans-style pockets. black hats, was no exception. pale pink — or an array of appearance, deftly proving finale of models wearing chaste Straight-legged trousers in Among the strongest pieces painterly and abstract prints, that she, too, can marry white dresses, their heads and papery fabrics were slit up the were curve-hugging, short the impression was one of creativity and commerciality. upper bodies veiled in artfully back. This low-key show cast black frock coats with shiny graceful calm. She referenced the Eighties WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Off the runway.…But not off the calendar. Meadham Ashley Moschino Pringle of There were a slew of presentations during Clements Kirchhoff Williams Cheap and Scotland London. Stella McCartney started Tuesday Ribeiro Chic morning with a workout, hiring synchronized swimmers, yogis and runners to model her Adidas by Stella McCartney collection in action. Pringle of Scotland creative director Massimo Nicosia experimented with new knitwear techniques, reimagining classic argyle in crafty macramé, while Huishan Zhang found a modern outlet for smocking and lace on his charming cocktail collection, which included polished cropped top and skirt combinations. Brazil ruled at Clements Ribeiro with Copacabana references turning up in wave patterns and tropical prints. Then it was onto the worship of strong women. Iconic divas presided over the collections of Moschino Cheap and Chic and Peter Jensen, with Barbie inspiring the bubblegum pink and marabou of the former; and Diana Ross, the lip prints of the latter. At Teatum Jones, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones looked SPRING 2014 closer to home for their muses: their mothers, the “real, strong and pragmatic LONDON women” behind the tea towel-inspired lineup. PRESENTATIONS Adidas by Stella Peter Huishan McCartney Teatum Jensen Zhang Jones GIANNONI GIOVANNI Smythson Sophia Webster Claire Barrow PHOTOS BY NATURE CALLS and beach culture, and made a star out of Gary, SpongeBob SquarePants’ pet snail, whose image was printed onto a snakeskin print dress and bikini — which is more wearable than it sounds. A retro “Dream Boat” print of a speedboat came on white swimwear and separates, and Williams played with raw-edged Anya Hindmarch pleats, which were key to her Manolo Blahnik new sophistication. London’s accessories designers turned lapis satin and soft silver leather, Agapax, a suede ankle-wrap style Claire Barrow: Magic, voodoo, to the natural world for inspiration, while evening bags were made with a metal stiletto heel. suns and moons, astrology and with references ranging from natural from shiny, sculpted metal in an Sophia Webster called her spring faces were the subject of Claire minerals to outer space to the abstract star shape. Other styles presentation a “bug’s slumber Barrow’s signature hand-painted Mediterranean Sea to a bug’s life. were spherical, like planets. party” for the whimsical shoes and motifs that appeared throughout Hindmarch also reworked some bags that referenced ladybugs and her last collection for Fashion Anya Hindmarch, who’s making a of her classics, deconstructing the butterflies, whose wings wrapped East, but they lost some of their name as London Fashion Week’s Bathurst satchel and the Ebury around a pair of laser-cut, over- polish for spring. entertainer in chief with her bag into lighter versions of the the-knee gladiator boots. Ladybug Using a spare palette on silk, witty, colorful, often-mechanized originals. The designer has also spots popped up on shiny, dainty leather, stiff cotton and plastic, presentations, flew her audience launched whatplanetareyouon. plastic and leather heels. the lineup was full of the kind of to the moon with a planetarium- com, a microsite for customers to Smythson, meanwhile, dove into tough clothes that might be worn like show space. create their own astrology charts the Mediterranean with a series of by modern pagan cult members. The bags dipped and rose over to share via social media. ultralightweight, unlined Panama A rustic, off-the-shoulder dress the runway, suspended from a Manolo Blahnik took a more bags in a palette of sun-soaked had bones sewn onto it, while solar system of a ceiling, while earthy turn, employing two motifs shades. The brand also showcased a sleeveless boiler suit was guests received personalized for spring: flowers, as in sandals its new 1887 bag, a roomy color- embroidered with gold and printed horoscopes on their decorated with dainty daisies, and blocked handbag with contrast — silver faces. seats. Clutches came in printed, an African influence, seen on the rather than gold — stamping. 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 WWD.COM London’s Fashion Emergence Continues

J.W. Anderson GIANNONI GIOVANNI Roksanda Burberry Christopher L’Wren Scott Paul Smith Ilincic Prorsum Kane PHOTOS BY

Justin O’Shea, buying director at Mytheresa.com: Katrantzou were also standouts. bigger and bigger, but this season it has By WWD STAFF Trends: “I don’t think there’s anything Sound off: “The venues! I don’t think I’ve seemed harder to find new designers. The particularly new that we’re seeing from ever been in such a lather trying to get traffic and weather have been messing with LONDON — As London Fashion Week London, but it is separating itself as a to the shows, they were too scattered. We us, and the Topshop venue was difficult to has gathered steam, the number of in- slightly more adventurous city in terms weren’t helped by the triathlon [which get to and from. It would be better if most ternational buyers in town has been in- of Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto and closed down parts of London].” shows were nearer to Somerset House.” creasing steadily — and so have budgets. Erdem, with their interesting use of sil- Liberty is planning a 20 percent in- houettes. The flying cape details at Erdem Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion Yukiko Yuzawa, buyer/Concento division director crease in its budgets for London, and and Peter Pilotto had all the couture skirt direction for Holt Renfrew: at H.P. France, Tokyo: Suzanne Timmins, senior vice president details. London is definitely separating it- Trends: “Japanese influences; a sugared- Trends: “The use of Neoprene, vinyl and and fashion director at Hudson’s Bay Co. self from New York especially.” almond, garden-party palette, plus white; cocoon shapes is continuing, and I’ve in Canada, called the shows here “essen- Favorite collections: Erdem. “It was a mo- lace pencil skirts; knitwear and cardi- seen lots of skirts with wide openings, tial to the international fashion circuit. ment that everyone just looked at each gans, and I loved the romance of the be- like those at Simone Rocha.” London is a hotbed of creativity and in- other and said: ‘That is absolutely beau- low-the-knee garden skirt.” Favorite collections: J.W. Anderson, bags novation. We buy a significant number of tiful’” as well as Christopher Kane. Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Burberry, Peter by Amélie Pichard, Claire Barrow and collections here.” Sound off: “I’ll tell you what the problem Pilotto, Erdem and Christopher Kane. Nasir Mazhar. Barbara Atkin, vice president of fash- was: planning a world triathlete series on Sound off: “Tom Ford got his mojo back: Sound off: “We have secured at least 40 ion direction for Holt Renfrew, said the Sunday during fashion week. I don’t Talk about sexy, sexy, sexy!” percent of our total budget for London London Fashion Week is now a “must” know why Boris [Johnson] was doing that. designers, and I have been impressed for women’s and men’s each season, not It was impossible to get to shows.” Carmen Borgonovo, fashion director of with the organization of the week, but only for the runway shows and presenta- My-wardrobe.com: London Fashion Week is too short. It tions, but for the innovative retail con- Marigay McKee, chief merchant at Harrods: Trends: “Elegant femininity, minimalism, pas- needs to be longer.” cepts that enrich the fashion capital. Trends: “The monochrome trend for next tels and sugar almond colors. My must-have “We always hold open-to-buy dollars for season will be huge. It was splendid at item for spring 2014 has to be culottes.” Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise London,” Atkin said. “I loved the new Erdem and ethereal and beautiful at Favorite collections: Meadham Kirchhoff, manager of women’s and men’s apparel at femininity that emerged this season.” Simone Rocha. Perspex heels, bags and Emilia Wickstead, 1205, Simone Rocha Printemps, Paris: Tancrède de Lalun, general merchan- necklaces are big news and lace was ev- and Huishan Zhang. Trends: “It’s been a superfeminine season, dise manager of women’s and men’s ap- erywhere; I love that celebration of un- Sound off: “Over the last couple of years, not boyish at all, with a lot of pastel col- parel at Printemps in Paris, said the derwear as outerwear.” we have seen the London designers re- ors, transparency, flowers still, but more store is “definitely increasing” its London Favorite collections: “We are definitely ally grow. The level of craftsmanship and skirts this time — not just dresses. The budget because of labels such as Erdem, spending more on Christopher Kane, innovation on the catwalks this season mood is easy and natural, very fresh, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto. “We Victoria Beckham, Mouret and Erdem, has been outstanding.” which is also in line with hair and make- have actually already started increasing and we will be adding Simone Rocha to up. The skirt is definitely back. Another our budget this fall and will carry on next the mix. Burberry is transformational, Rhian Grimstead, women’s wear buyer at Liberty: key item is the sweatshirt.” spring.” Printemps is currently host- they really got it right; it was pure femi- Trends: “Two trends that were obvious Favorite collections: Christopher Kane, ing a “Londonmania” promotion at its ninity without the frills” throughout the shows were coming Burberry, J.W. Anderson. Boulevard Haussmann flagship. Sound off: “London was much more com- from feminine shapes and floral prints. Sound off: “There is an amazing energy com- Here’s what buyers had to say about mercial. It’s still about creativity and eccen- Compared to New York Fashion Week, ing from London. There has always been a the five-day showcase: tricity, but designers are becoming more where brands were still channeling dark lot of youth there, but what we have been commercial and in a very modern way. The and sporty aesthetics, London Fashion seeing over the past three seasons is a lot of Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office venues are getting bigger to accommodate Week was full of pastels, color, floral young designers turning into proper brands. and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman: people coming from Asia and the U.S. who prints and feminine silhouettes.” They are growing, building their collections, Trends: “While there were numerous previously might have skipped the week. Favorite collections: Roksanda Ilincic: “Her delivering on time. And so, of course, there unique signatures, there were some uni- On the downside, unless you have a very clever use of Neoprene to ensure her la- is competition for exclusive pieces.” fying trends to key into: abundant floral skilled driver, it can be tricky to get across dylike structures remained modern was a references, the importance of shirt dress- London to the different venues.” great twist.” Christopher Kane: “His crafts- Sarah Andelman, purchasing manager and ing, pastel palettes, innovative lace treat- manship in the petal and embellished de- creative director at Colette: ment, airiness, longer lengths and sculp- Paula Reed, fashion director at Harvey Nichols: tails were a work of art.” Jonathan Saunders: Favorite collections: “I loved the Christopher tural volume in layered shapes.” Trends: “There was an elegant feminin- “His use of pretty pastels offset against the Kane and Erdem shows and collections. Favorite collections: “Standouts for us were ity on many of the catwalks but it wasn’t masculine shapes, such as the baby-blue silk They both push the limits, they have in- Peter Pilotto, Tom Ford, Christopher corseted or trussed-up, there was an track pants, were a refreshing move on from credible skills for new techniques, to in- Kane and Erdem. Anya Hindmarch con- ease. It was ladylike but modern.” his much-loved dress shapes coveted by so troduce new ideas. For me they’re ‘real tinues to spoil us with her whimsical and Favorite collections: “I love the way that many other designers this season.” designers,’ making clothes immediately fantastical presentations, and L’Wren J.W. Anderson is maturing, we’ve stocked Sound off: “London Fashion Week could desirable. I also liked a lot the first looks Scott’s collection inspired by 16th century him for three seasons and we’re slowly be a day longer in order to be able to by Mary Katrantzou with the shoe prints.” Japanese culture was beautifully done.” building a base. The pastels at Burberry spend a small amount of time speaking Sound off: “London has become a not- were beautiful and those double-faced to new designers.” Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising to-miss on our fashion schedules. This coats were the kind of thing that ward- director at Selfridges: season, many of the young designers im- robes are built around. Emilia Wickstead Michael Mok, divisional merchandising Trends: “See-through plastic fabrics and pressed us with their craftsmanship and nailed it with her elegant summer manager at Joyce: shoes using this material as well.” originality.…There was a great sense of dresses — it really feels like she’s at a Trends: “Lots of florals, transparency Favorite collections: Erdem, Christopher organization to the calendar, and full-on tipping point. We don’t currently stock and lace.” Kane, Antonio Berardi and the shoes at support of emerging talent. Traffic was her, but we will be looking to start doing Favorite collections: Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic. our only complaint, but it was all worth business together. Kane has lost none Mary Katrantzou. Sound off: “The only challenge was the traffic, the wait.” of his creativity. Peter Pilotto and Mary Sound off: “London Fashion Week is getting but I think that is true in all of the cities.” “The fact that hair looks better the dirtier it gets is probably the biggest silver lining re: life in general.” —sea oF shoes on nowManiFest.coM

where Fashion Finds its Voice 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 Tapping African Heritage, Vlisco Launches Accessories Owned since 2010 by London-based pri- ensemble. Prices per yard range from about According to industry sources, LVMH By MILES SOCHA vate equity firm Actis, which invests in var- 7.5 euros to 16.5 euros for limited editions, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Hermès ied firms in Africa, the company is helmed or about $10 to $22 at current exchange. International, among European luxury HELMOND, The Netherlands — Vlisco, by Hans Ouwendijk, who previously worked Gerards explained that the fashion players keen on securing rare and spe- a 167-year-old Dutch brand as African as at Laura Ashley and Mexx in Europe. He system in West Africa is nearly the oppo- cialized suppliers, are keeping an eye on zebras, is about to make its international was also managing director of Fashion site of Europe’s, with fabrics, not labor, Vlisco, with Actis likely to search for an exit coming out during Milan Fashion Week, Fund One, the Dutch private equity player the most important input cost. African within the usual five- to seven-year invest- which kicks off today. that in 2007 purchased French swimwear women prize the unique, expressive ment horizon for a private equity player. The maker of bold and colorful textiles, company Vilebrequin, (flipping it to G-III garments their tailors can realize with Ouwendijk declined to comment on beloved in West Africa for decades, is Apparel Group Ltd. five years later). Vlisco’s vast array of patterns, he added. any potential acquirer, while allowing launching a range of handbags and scarves Actis, which bought Vlisco from trou- Ouwendijk said the company has re- that the company could see a new share- that it hopes will accelerate its recent trans- bled Gamma Holdings, tasked Ouwendijk cently seen demand for ready-to-wear holder arrive in coming years. formation into a nascent luxury brand. with transforming the company into a explode at its younger brand Woodin and To be sure, Vlisco operates in a vibrant “Our aim is that a global consumer brand-oriented fashion player, rather “the market is just going to evolve more geography, with seven of the world’s 10 loves it and a West African consumer will than just a textile designer and manufac- and more into ready-to-wear.” fastest growing economies located in love it even more because there’s a lot of turer. “There was no Africa, he said. While there is a tiny elite recognition in it,” said Roger Gerards, marketing depart- and vast numbers of low-income Africans, Vlisco’s creative director. ment, no brand “the middle group is expanding enor-

The company is targeting a limited focus,” he said mously fast,” giving consumers greater number of specialty stores in Europe, in an interview. purchasing power, Ouwendijk said. the U.S. and the Far East with its first Actis set a “Africa is taking over as the engine of concerted accessories volley — and will goal to dou- Accessories growth for the globe,” he enthused, not- showcase them in its fast-growing net- ble the size from Vlisco. ing that Vlisco currently produces about work of Vlisco boutiques, now numbering 70 million yards of fabric a year. 30, in countries including Benin, Ivory ·· Gerards, who trained as an anthropolo- Coast, Togo and Nigeria. gist and fashion designer, seems perfectly Fold-over clutches, totes and bowling- cast for his role at Vlisco, overseeing a de- style bags come in cotton-and-silk jacquards sign department numbering 43, including as well as embossed and printed leather, 17 textile designers, and culling inspira- while scarves — all large-scale like its prints tion from an archive of more than 300,000 — come in silks or textured jacquards. One textile references, with swatches and origi- grouping is bright and demonstrative — a nal drawings all meticulously catalogued. table fan among the playful motifs — while The designer led a quick tour of the another incorporates subdued colors and company’s spotless facility, showing rolls prints for more conservative tastes. of cotton being dipped in indigo, pass- Products are manufactured in top facto- ing through such a bath as many as nine ries in Milan and Como, Italy, with Gerards times to accrue a rich and lasting color. scouting like-minded companies to exe- I see no reason why Etched copper rollers apply the wax that cute Vlisco’s artisanal approach to fabrics. gives fabrics their intricate designs, and Retail prices are to range from 490 Gerards noted all fabrics are printed on euros, or $650 at current exchange, for in the next five years both sides and pass through 36 production clutches to 690 to 1,390 euros ($920 to of the business by 2015-16, a feat Vlisco steps before they can receive their Vlisco $1,850) for bags, and 190 to 490 euros ($250 should accomplish next year. Ouwendijk we should not have seal of authenticity and get wrapped in to $650) for scarves. The products go on noted revenues, 169 million euros in jute for shipping by container. display at the Riccardo Grassi Showroom 2009, are already approaching 300 mil- approximately While Chinese makers flooded the West from today and will also be showcased in lion euros, or $400.5 million at current African market in the past 10 years with Paris during its fashion week. exchange, this year. cheap, screen-printed versions of its de- If a rich brand narrative is gold for a While more than 90 percent of revenues 100 stores. signs, Gerards said only Vlisco can boast a fashion player these days, Vlisco has an are generated in West and Central Africa, multilayered design approach — as alert to entire mine to tap, accruing the status of the company has started gaining traction — HANS OUWENDIJK the social, historical and cultural narrative cultural icon in Africa from a small city in in countries including France and the U.K. in the prints as their resonance with cur- southern Holland — all thanks to a Dutch “In the last two years, we more than dou- While European fashion players rang- rent trends — and an artisanal production trader who unknowingly ignited a craze for bled our business in the U.S.,” he noted. ing from Mango to Ermenegildo Zegna process that still sees colors printed one- Javanese batik prints when bartering with Growth, Ouwendijk said, is coming are tiptoeing into Africa, most are op- by-one. The wax technique produces ir- locals back in the 17th century. Founder from capitalizing on existing markets; erating with franchise partners, and regularities that are as prized as the vivid Pieter Fentener van Vlissingen subsequent- exploiting potential outside its core mar- Ouwendijk said Vlisco’s “first-mover ad- pop of large-scale and asymmetric motifs. ly segued from imitation batiks to high- kets, including in Africa, and expanding vantage” remains a considerable asset. “You get the honesty of the technique, quality fabrics designed to reflect African the product offer, with the accessories “We know all the dynamics,” he said, which is part of the image,” Gerards tastes, also incorporating their traditions launch emblematic of that. noting that Actis has helped it make fur- said, noting that each print takes about a and beliefs into motifs steeped in allegory. Vlisco already creates ready-made gar- ther inroads with gover··nments, a key in- month in order to realize “the best com- Today, the fast-growing company ments with its fabrics, but largely as a ve- gredient to success in African countries. position for the eye.” boasts 2,700 employees and a sprawling hicle to express to African consumers “I see no reason why in the next five Vlisco produces four collections of production complex that grew from the and tailors the fashion possibilities of its years we should not have approximately textiles a year, defined by themes and same spot where the founder first start- patterns in magazine-like catalogues or 100 stores,” Ouwendijk said, noting that color stories Gerards sets rather than by ed marketing what is often called Real splashy billboards. It still sells its fabrics in retail currently represents less than 10 seasons. “Most of the inspiration is the Dutch Wax prints. six-yard bolts, enough to make a three-piece percent of the business. brand itself,” he said.

activities and events,” he said. Sales at Church’s grew 5.4 percent. Prada Taking Cautious Approach to 2nd Half However, Car Shoe revenues fell 33 per- {Continued from page one} Galli also pointed to currency vola- store” in Kobe three days ago, said Galli. cent, largely because of the decline and officer Donatello Galli during a confer- tility and “heavy” devaluation of the The Americas rose 13.4 percent, rep- reduction of its wholesale channel. ence call with analysts. He demurred American dollar and the Japanese yen resenting 14 percent of sales. In the U.S., “Car Shoe and Church’s are an opportuni- from any projection, in light of “mixed against the euro, which had a “strong im- the group has been converting 13 shops in ty, but we don’t think this is the right moment market conditions.” pact” on first-half results. department stores in the first six months to launch leather offers,” said Galli. “We are “We cannot be more precise, we need In the first half, revenues generated by into concessions to “have better control sticking with the larger brands,” he noted, some more weeks to see where the mar- directly operated stores rose 15.7 percent to over different propositions and product adding that two Church’s units recently ket is going and if it is going in the right 1.42 billion euros, or $1.85 billion. As of July flow,” said Galli. opened in China. Asked by one analyst if the direction. The company will require a 31, the company counted 491 units. Retail ac- Europe was up 5.6 percent, account- group had plans to expand the brand along prudent approach to operations and counted for 83 percent of sales. There have ing for 2 percent of sales. the lines of Berluti, Galli said: “We cannot cost control but we are not pessimistic. been 77 new openings since Aug. 1, 2012. The Prada brand continued to grow, exclude anything, but this is not on the table.” Generally the economy is showing signs The wholesale channel showed a 3.3 showing a 14.3 percent gain, while Miu Leather goods accounted for 68 per- of gradual recovery, even in Italy,” said percent drop in revenues to 285.1 million Miu was up 4.1 percent. Responding to cent of sales, footwear for 16 percent and Galli. “We keep investing in the long euros, or $370.6 million, as a result of the questions regarding Miu Miu’s lower rtw for 15 percent. term, luxury is positive and I feel com- selective strategy implemented by the growth, Galli said the group has “always Galli said Prada’s men’s category is fortable now in consolidating the organic group for the last several years. talked about a medium term [project], growing and now accounts for 30 percent growth in the first half.” Asia-Pacific — and Greater China, in brand building takes time, especially in of sales, “in some cases for 40 percent.” During the call, Galli pointed to the particular — showed a 17.9 percent growth. these market conditions.” Galli said the Capital expenditures in the period to- increasingly crowded market. “Smaller Asia accounted for 37 percent of sales. company continues to invest in Miu Miu’s taled 293 million euros, or $380.9 million, brands have attained dimension — Revenues in Japan accelerated in the international footprint, having recently mainly invested in retailing. In the pe- Céline, Yves Saint Laurent, for example, second quarter, showing a 16.4 revenue introduced the brand in the Middle East, riod, the company purchased venues in are much bigger than three or four years growth in the first half at constant exchange for example. “We cannot put a date, the Old Bond Street in London and in Saint ago, now they are reasonably dimen- rates, though the ongoing weakness of the label is still growing, its ready-to-wear for Petersburg, Russia. sioned and the level of competition has yen meant that euro revenues actually fell. example is growing more than Prada’s, As of July 31, the group’s positive net increased. Part of our competitors have Japan accounted for 9 percent of sales. and apparel is much more difficult, so financial position stood at 195.6 million pushed on smaller brands. Nobody is The group is investing in retailing in the we pursue with confidence, investing in euros, or $254.3 million, compared with 82.5 standing still, but the market is growing.” region, too, and opened “a very important stores, more communication, and other million euros, or $106.4 million, last year. WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 9 WWD.COM DENIM Tahari Forms Greywire Denim Venture

men’s initially, jeans silhouettes collections with style counts vary- is using Denim & Supply.” By ARNOLD J. KARR in women’s include a skinny, boot ing based upon the season,” he Tahari said he sought to cre- Michael cut, straight leg, flare and boy- said. “The Duncan men’s jean is ate a brand that both existing and Press ELIE TAHARI has found his friend. In men’s, the assortment one of our best sellers, but casu- prospective Tahari customers designated denim guru. includes relaxed, slim boot cut alwear is not what people think “could feel belonged to them.” The entrepreneurial chair- and a tapered straight leg. of when they think of the Elie The line avails itself of plenty man of the firm that bears his Speaking at the Coterie show Tahari Collection. Elie Tahari of other corporate resources, name has brought on market Tuesday as he previewed the line has a larger focus on outerwear, however, with operations, mar- veteran Michael Press to head for retailers, Press positioned the luxurious fabrics and modern, so- keting, promotion and sourcing a new denim venture, dubbed Tahari sensibility and the denim phisticated silhouettes. already well in place at the $500 Greywire, as president. Greywire category as a natural match. “For the past 20 years, I’ve million parent company. “ Yo u is slated for a spring launch and “Elie is a man who can outfit a wanted to expand into denim with don’t get to build a new brand will include about 20 styles of woman in a $5,000 dress and still a larger assortment, and this is why with these kinds of resources women’s and men’s jeans com- look at putting her into a $140 pair Michael and I created Greywire. very often,” Press said. plemented by jackets, knit and of jeans with exactly the same We wanted a separate brand that In keeping with the cor- woven tops, pants and shorts. passion,” he said. “I’ve worked focused on denim,” he said. porate sensibility, branding Press’ résumé includes start- with people who just don’t have Press said he found Tahari touches are subtle and include up and management posts at the same passion when they take open to suggestion as the concept a selvage rear belt or waistband of the line unfolded and there loop, a simple linear “gray wire” vice president of merchandising was consensus on the need for a on the back pocket and rivets and head of department store separate brand name. “At least and buttons bearing the brand. sales. Distribution is being di- now, there’s no Tahari mention on Following Coterie, the divi- rected at better department and the collection. Outside of Ralph sion will settle into a new show- specialty stores, and Press ex- Lauren, very few companies have room, separate from the parent’s pects to build international dis- been able to take the corporate corporate quarters, at 510 Fifth tribution — in Canada, Europe brand and use it to market jeans,” Avenue in New York. Press’ brain and Asia — from the outset, al- he said. “And now, Ralph Lauren trust includes Melissa Freeman, though there are currently no plans to add Greywire to the as- sortments of Tahari’s network of stores in the U.S. and abroad. Items from the Referred to by the company as new Greywire a “partner” in the venture, Press collection. declined to discuss the specifics of his arrangement, except to say some of the major premium and the product to a lower price. And it had “really nice structure.” He upscale denim brands of the last with the onslaught of the H&Ms also declined to project sales for 20 years, including Diesel, Polo and the Topshops of the world, the inaugural collection. Jeans, AG Adriano Goldschmied, price has become an issue but it “Especially when you’re start- Paige Denim and Earnest Sewn. can’t ever be a justification for a ing out, it’s the quality of the dis- He was most recently presi- product that is anything but over- tribution, not the quantity, that dent of textiles at Elizabeth and whelmingly strong. People don’t matters,” he said, adding that James following a stint as presi- want to have to spend $250 to get he’s prepared to respond to any dent of Vintage Revolution. something great. We’re aiming for resistance he encounters from Greywire seeks to fill what attainable luxury here.” reluctant buyers. appears to be the growing space Responding to questions via “The two things you often between the premium market, e-mail during a trip out of the hear from the stores are, ‘I don’t generally carrying retail prices of country, Tahari noted that his ex- need another jean line,’ and ‘I $200 and above, and more moder- isting collections included denim have that covered.’ But if ev- ately priced jeans selling at under but simply didn’t make a strong eryone isn’t walking out of the $100, with basic and fashion enough statement in the category. store with a stuffed shopping ERICKSEN KYLE pieces in the $118 to $180 retail “We have always had an ele- bag, maybe you do need another range. Expected to sell at about ment or pieces of denim in the jean line and maybe you don’t

a two-to-one ratio of women’s to Elie Tahari women’s and men’s PHOTOS BY have everything covered.”

BEAUTY BEAT particular. Following the call, and the skin- and body-care cat- Scannavini said Sally Hansen egory accounted for the remain- has no plans to “downsize” the ing 15 percent. Scannavini Unveils Coty Growth Plan launch of Triple Shine based on Scannavini said the company retailers’ recent spate of de-stock- is making progress on putting and reminded analysts of the sales rose 19 percent for the 52- ing. He emphasized that nail care Philosophy back on the growth By MOLLY PRIOR company’s past track record. “We week period ended May 19, com- is still a “hot category” and that track. In fiscal 2013, the brand have delivered sustained revenue pared with gains of 24.8 percent he hopes the recent falloff was expanded to several Anglo-Saxon NEW YORK — Coty Inc.’s growth and margin expansion for full-year 2012, according to “more of a blip than a trend.” countries, including the U.K. Michele Scannavini kicked off over the last 10 years,” he said. SymphonyIRI Group. The com- The company said that de- and the Netherlands, Belgium the beauty firm’s first earnings For the fourth quarter ended pany said the mass-market nail- stocking by U.S. mass retailers, and Luxembourg. It’s also rolled call as a public company with a June 30, net losses attribut- care category declined 2.5 per- as well as macroeconomic con- out to Singapore, South Korea plan for the future. able to Coty narrowed to $62.3 cent in July, prompting retailers ditions in Europe, could some- and Hong Kong to test how the Coty, which narrowed net loss- million, or 16 cents a diluted to quickly cut inventory prior to what hamper net revenue in the whimsical skin-care brands es in the fourth quarter, has a six- share, compared with a net loss the back-to-school selling season. first quarter of fiscal 2014. plays in Asia. He noted that the pronged plan intended to drive of $357.3 million, or a 95 cents a Scannavini said, “I was not Turning to the year ended brand’s new leadership team — profitable growth, Coty chief ex- share, in the same quarter a year expecting nail to grow at 20 per- June 30, net income attributable which includes Marc Rey, presi- ecutive officer Scannavini told ago. Adjusted net income, which cent for years to come.…It was to Coty was $168 million, or 42 dent of Coty Prestige U.S. and analysts Tuesday. excludes nonrecurring items, in- bound to slow down, but nobody cents a diluted share, compared regional vice president of Coty The plan includes maximiz- cluding Coty’s share-based com- expected such a drastic drop.” with a loss of $324.4 million, or Prestige North America, and ing the growth potential of Coty’s pensation expenses when it was Scannavini, noting that its Sally 87 cents a share, in the prior Jill Scalamandre, senior vice 10 power brands with “superior a private company, was $9.9 mil- Hansen brand was hit hardest by year. Adjusted net income for president of Philosophy and Coty innovation;” strengthening the lion, or 3 cents a share. the about-face by retailers, said, the year was $323.2 million, or Prestige Skin Care — brings a company’s position in fragrance Net revenues for the three- “When you are the leader in the 82 cents a share. strong understanding of the glob- and color cosmetics, while ex- month period gained 3.9 percent category, you are the one who pays Net revenue was $4.65 billion, al skin-care market. The compa- panding its skin- and body-care to $1.06 billion, compared with the most in terms of de-stocking.” up 0.9 percent from $4.61 billion. ny is relocating Philosophy’s com- business; growing its emerging- $1.02 billion. He forecasted that over time the By category, fragrances gained mercial and marketing teams and markets business to account By category, during the quar- nail-care category — where two 2 percent to $2.49 billion, and research and development func- for one-third of Coty’s revenues ter fragrances gained 6 percent of Coty’s 10 “power brands” play, color cosmetics increased 3 per- tions from Phoenix, where they within five years, up from one- to $490.4 million, color cosmet- namely Sally Hansen and OPI — cent to $1.47 billion, while skin are currently based, to New York fourth currently; leveraging ics was flat at $385.1 million, and may grow more in line with the and body care declined 5 percent and Morris Plains, N.J., where its multidistribution strategy skin and body care increased 6 total color cosmetics category at a to $689.9 million. Scannavini Coty operates an R&D facility. to cover all price points; con- percent to $183.3 million. rate of 3 to 4 percent. said that for the year, fragrances Scannavini said Philosophy tinuing to grow margin through Coty said its color business Citing the entrance of a host accounted for 54 percent of the began introducing the first prod- supply-chain productivity, and was impacted by an abrupt slow- of new brands and heightened in- business, driven by brands such ucts for its new innovation pro- generating sustainable and prof- down in nail-care sales — which vestment in the category, he said, as Marc Jacobs, which grew at a gram in the second half. itable growth through improved had been humming along at a ro- “We are focused on innovation double-digit rate for the fourth During the call he told ana- earnings and capital reduction. bust double-digit clip for the past that can put us one step ahead,” year in a row; color cosmetics ac- lysts, “Innovation is the engine He referred to fiscal 2013 as several years — in June and July. and named the upcoming Sally counted for 31 percent, boosted that will continue to differenti- “another positive year for Coty,” In the mass market, nail polish Hansen launch Triple Shine in by Rimmel’s double-digit growth, ate us and drive our growth.” 10 WWD wednesday, september 18, 2013

be more agenda-setting than since July, when Stengel informed business and turmoil in the small-budget musical film about MeMo pad that,” she said. Nelson he was a candidate for management ranks. In the first artist Jean Cocteau, set in Paris On the other hand, Time has a position in the administration quarter, Joe Ripp, the fifth chief in the Twenties, while Dombasle FIRST LADY: Nancy Gibbs was also recently been criticized and stepped back from his executive officer in three years, directed it. The movie will be named managing editor of for not being ahead of the regular duties. She has been the will take Time Inc. public. released on Oct. 2 in France. Time magazine Tuesday, revelations from former National heir apparent since 2011, when Nelson said the pressures In the issue is a 20-page series succeeding Richard Stengel, who Security Agency contractor she was named deputy managing facing Time Inc. as a company shot by Lagerfeld, who was also was nominated on the same Edward Snowden, the biggest editor. In naming her to the are no different from those in interviewed. “Karl loves the day for a post in the Obama national security story of the post, Nelson emphasized Gibbs’ front of the entire industry. period and knows a lot about it. administration at the State year. Barton Gellman, a contributing digital credentials — she oversaw “Nobody is immune from It was the beginning of Cubism, Department. Gibbs becomes the editor at large at Time, instead the magazine’s transition into pressure,” she said. “It’s just the the Russian ballets and so forth,” first woman to hold the post in broke a series of Snowden stories a digital newsroom and played business we work in. If you’re said Darré, who worked with the magazine’s 90-year history as in the Washington Post, where he a leading role in the relaunch not ready for a lot of change, and Lagerfeld for 10 years at Fendi. Time Inc. also has its first female also has a nonexclusive contract. of its mobile site. Nelson also a lot of challenge, you shouldn’t Pierre Bergé, who is the executor editor in chief, Martha Nelson. underscored the new demands be in our industry. Is it more of Cocteau’s estate, is the subject Gibbs’ first order of business, facing “brand editors.” from Time than anybody else? I of a separate profile in the issue. she said in an interview following “Time as a brand remains don’t think so.” — ERIk MAzA The issue, which counts 377 her appointment, is a relaunch powerful, but it has to be pages including 100 advertising of Time.com in November that powerful and relevant in every COVER STORY: karl Lagerfeld shot pages, is set to hit newsstands she said prepares it to fight off platform,” Nelson said. “As a the gatefold cover of L’Officiel’s on Friday priced at 4.50 euros, the competition. In the context Web site, can we do more? And October issue, which features or $6 at current exchange. of describing the new site, can we do better? That’s where cast members from the film The October issue is the last which is led by Edward Felsenthal, [Gibbs] and [Felsenthal] have “Opium,” including Farida khelfa, one with Daphné Hézard as editor formerly of The Daily Beast, already begun to work.” Audrey Marnay, Marisa Berenson in chief. Hézard recently left to Gibbs also mounted a defense Gibbs said her role is and Arielle Dombasle. join Harper’s Bazaar France as of the relevance of the weekly. different from her predecessors Vincent Darré, the fashion fashion and lifestyle editor. The As managing editor, she faces in that she is going to be designer-turned-interiors-maven French version of the magazine parallel pressures to grow online devoting more time to efforts who was tapped earlier this is expected to launch between traffic without diminishing online, which include, in year to be “curator” of L’Officiel, March and June. the print product, which still addition to the site relaunch, a was the artistic director of the — LAURE GUILBAULT delivers the lion’s share of the new video unit, because more magazine’s revenues. of her audience is digital. “It’s true that part of Time. “In one sense, we’ve been com includes just higher volume liberated. The frustration we and velocity of news. But it’s Nancy Gibbs is Time magazine’s first always had in my day, especially exactly because there’s so much female managing editor. with a story moving under your information out there that the feet, is that we only got one cover of Time is more powerful. Gibbs said the magazine chance a week to capture it,” she There are fewer places for has covered Snowden even said. “The Web was liberating in any kind of broad national if Gellman felt a daily was a the sense we could just be faster. conversation — we’ve been better fit to break news. By and large, even the old-school splintered into so many news “I would say stay tuned,” writers were increasingly excited silos. If anything, the power of she said, referring to future when they realized not every the cover of Time has increased stories from Gellman. “We still story had to be the perfectly as the media landscape has have a good relationship with honed Time cover story that you atomized,” she said. [Gellman]. He has said that worked on for weeks.” agerfeld Gibbs pointed to an what he had was more of a Gibbs is coming to the l interview on ABC News’ “This newspaper story. He is still very job at a sensitive moment Karl Week” where President Obama much part of our family.” for the company, still the was asked about Time’s most Gibbs, 53, who started at the largest magazine publisher

recent cover on the failure of magazine in the late Eighties, has in the country, but humbled photo by Wall Street reform. “You can’t been informally leading Time by declines in its traditional The gatefold cover of L’Officiel’s October issue.

love to have a collaboration with them and pay proper homage to Gianni.” Nakash Family Buys Versace Mansion A protracted legal dispute with Loftin, who claimed the Nakash note was invalid, Donald Trump, at a bankruptcy auc- Versace bought the mansion in 1992 had left the property in bankruptcy and put By ARNOLD J. KARR tion held in Miami Tuesday. The deal for less than $3 million and put about $33 the fate of the mansion in the court’s hands. requires approval from the bankruptcy million into it. The Versace family sold “We’ve waited a long time for this day,” THE FAMILY behind Jordache court, which will consider the matter at the edifice, which dates back to Peter said Nakash, son of Jordache cofounder Enterprises appears to have finally a hearing this morning. Loftin, for $19 million in 2000. Joe Nakash. “This is a very delicate prop- prevailed in its quest to purchase Casa VM includes members of the Nakash Steven Nakash, who supervises mar- erty and a very special property. People Casuarina, the Miami Beach mansion- and Gindi families and controls the Victor keting at Jordache and oversees the take more pictures in front of it than they turned-hotel where designer Gianni Hotel next door to the mansion. VM held a family’s insurable assets worldwide, do the White House because they can’t get Versace lived for five years before being $25 million note on the property. Although told WWD, “The home was created long in. We want people to be able to enter and killed there in 1997. the opulent 23,000-square-foot mansion, lo- before the Versace family had it, but it’s see it. A lot of different concepts are on Through its investment vehicle VM cated at 1116 Ocean Drive in South Beach, Versace that made it famous. We’re look- the table. Right now, we’re talking about a South Beach LLC, the Nakash fam- had been listed for $125 million before the ing into using the Versace name and in- hotel and a hotel only, but we’re a creative ily acquired the mansion for $41.5 mil- price was lowered to $100 million, bidding tend to speak to the family and see what bunch and we’re throwing around ideas lion, beating out a $41 million bid from at the auction started at $25 million. they have to say about that. We would for a magnificent retail concept.” Valentino Accessories Get Spotlight in New Book sion — an armless doll hung by the neck an introductory essay that draws links By MILES SOCHA from the handle of a black leather bag between contemporary art and Valentino — to Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s day in the accessories, such as a “soft” light switch PARIS — Bunches of flowers, rather than life of a suburban nudist in stilettos, the by Claes Oldenburg and a glossy hobo. i

limbs, poke out of lace boots. A studded 300 or so accessories pictured are far re- In an interview, Piccioli and Chiuri K ra

handbag and a clutch shield the inti- moved from their usual context of run- mused on how bags and shoes have accrued a mate parts of a woman, apparently not so ways and fashion seasons. Ye t Chiuri ar- both business and creative importance. skilled at strip poker. gued that diCorcia’s images in particular, “We started with accessories more

These are among images in with their heightened sense of modern than 20 years ago, when accessories were Nobuyoshi “Valentino: Objects of Couture,” a new life, speak to the fact that accessories, not so fashion,” recalled Piccioli, who tome in which cutting-edge photog- like clothes, reflect what’s going on in to- worked beside Chiuri at Fendi before raphers and artists were given carte day’s world. moving over to Valentino. photo by blanche to capture the accessories out- “There’s a moment when everyone When the duo took over couture and An image from the book. put of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo wants one accessory,” she said. “I think ready-to-wear at the Roman house, they Piccioli, who joined the Roman house in accessories give that sense of time.” decided to apply a high-fashion ap- are represented, including Petale leather 1999 to do bags and shoes, rising to be- Douglas Gordon, Luisa Lambri, Duane proach, expressing the essence of the bags sprouting giant roses and Rockstud come creative directors in 2008. Michals and Amsterdam-based duo brand without logos or other common shoes with the same spikes that stud the Chiuri said of the 200-page Rizzoli Scheltens & Abbenes were also invited codes. “We understood the couture is spine of the book. book, which Valentino plans to launch Oct. to interpret bags and shoes from across about details, and it’s the same with ac- The company has frequently touted 1 at a cocktail party during Paris Fashion 13 years of Valentino collections, while cessories,” Chiuri related. its high growth potential for accesso- Week: “It’s another point of view.” David Bailey took a portrait of Piccioli While the contributors were free to ries, which currently represent about Indeed. and Chiuri, both dressed in black suits. choose from a broad selection of the ar- 45 percent of the business, versus 30 From Nobuyoshi Araki’s ghoulish vi- Art curator Francesco Bonami wrote chive, several of the duo’s “greatest hits” percent in 2009.

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for health-related initiatives. “Garment The T- shirts will sell for $25, with workers in the third world are among all proceeds going toward creating the most affected by these diseases.” sustainable education in Uganda. FASHION SCOOPS Other party guests included Laura Bailey, — SHARON EDELSON Poppy Delevingne, Sienna Miller, L’Wren Scott, Georgia May Jagger, Jodie and Jemma Kidd, GREAT SCOT: Pringle of Scotland packed LOOKING FOR PAROLE?: Sentenced to 26 Elizabeth McGovern, Tallulah Harlech, Emilia its new Mayfair boutique in London years in prison for arranging her ex- Wickstead and Stella McCartney. The latter to bursting Monday night with guests husband Maurizio Gucci’s murder in two could be on Firth’s designer list for including Tallulah Harlech, Quentin Jones, 1995, Patrizia Reggiani could perhaps soon the next collection, she said. — JULIA NEEL Polly Morgan, Yasmin Sewell, Gemma be a free woman — sort of. After 16 years Arterton, Jade Parfitt, Zandra Rhodes and behind bars, the term would officially SUPPER CLUB: “Sunday is the new Friday,” Pringle ambassador Tilda Swinton. The expire in three years, given Reggiani’s declared Alexandra Shulman, editor in chief latter designed two wrap dresses as good conduct in prison. A Milan judge of British Vogue, as she hosted a dinner part of Pringle’s capsule Princess is evaluating the request of Reggiani’s party at London’s Balthazar restaurant to Grace Collection. lawyer, who has asked for the sentence mark London Fashion Week, welcoming After the store-opening party, to be suspended, allowing Reggiani to guests including Victoria Beckham, Manolo Swinton quickly changed into the work as a consultant for Italian costume Blahnik, Richard Nicoll, Alexa Chung, Sienna black version of her Tilda dress and jewelry and accessories firm Bozart, Miller, Matthew Williamson, Portia Freeman headed to The Connaught hotel, where according to media reports. and Daphne Guinness, who revealed she she hosted an intimate dinner with a It would represent a change of mind was turning her attention to making an Scottish inflected menu that climaxed for Reggiani, who two years ago showed album. Sophie Dahl said when she’s not with brown-sugar shortbread with fresh no interest in the “semifreedom” she looking after her six-month old baby with was eligible for by Italian law, which musician Jamie Cullen, is pecking away at required holding down a part-time job. A Pamela a novel. “An historical murder At the time, Reggiani said: “No, thank Love design mystery,” she specified. you. I’ve never worked in my life.” It is for Liberty Blahnik said he would skip FOR MORE SCOOPS, SEE no secret that Reggiani, often referred to United. dinner and head off to bed. “I’m as the “black widow” or the “dark lady,” not spring chicken you know,” WWD.com has always been fond of designer frocks he declared. and precious baubles. — LUISA ZARGANI of bracelets, rings and pendants for — STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER the brand for fall. She will reimagine FINE TIME: Parisian jeweler Aurélie some of her namesake brand’s greatest T-SHIRTS FOR GOOD: The Cotton On Bidermann, most famously known for her hits — including the Aeternum ring, cuff Foundation + Global Citizen at Free oft-imitated macramé and chain jewelry, and pendant; the Inlay Cage, and the & the Brave at the Paramount Hotel is stepping it up a notch with the launch bestselling Talon cuff — out of recycled in Manhattan, a pop-up shop, is a of a fine jewelry line. Bidermann, who gunmetal, brass, bullet casings, stainless collaboration between Cotton On often references nature in her work, was and blackened steel and 14-karat gold. Foundation and the Global Poverty inspired by the exoticism of India with Each piece will bear the serial number Project. The organizations’ aim is to gain the use of hammered gold and rubies; of an illegal gun that the venture has the support of the fashion industry to end the colors of Greece, and the handiwork taken out of circulation, and 25 percent extreme poverty. Opening today, the pop of metalsmiths in the medieval period as of profits from the partnership will fund up is timed to launch in advance of the seen in her tsavorite-covered Scarab cuff. programs in communities across the Global Citizen Festival, a Sept. 28 concert The collection will be sold exclusively in U.S. to reduce gun violence. in Central Park with Stevie Wonder, Alicia the U.S. at Barneys New York across the The Liberty United x Pamela Love Keys, John Mayer and Kings of Leon. country and The Webster in Miami. collection, which starts at $85, will bow The temporary shop at Free & The designer, who has been creating this fall at pamelalovenyc.com and the Brave will offer the latest from her jewelry for 10 years, felt now was the libertyunited.com. — KRISTI GARCED Australian retailer Cotton On along right time to delve into fine with a full with the limited-edition Global Citizen collection. “I wanted to challenge myself GOOD CAUSE: Livia Firth, Natalie Massenet T-shirts designed celebrities such as the to try something new and thought this and Anna Wintour joined forces at Kings of Leon and Hugh Jackman, a board was the perfect time. It was extremely London’s historic Apsley House, the member of the Global Poverty Project. Tallulah important that this collection maintain home of the first Duke of Wellington, Jackman worked on the design of Harlech the DNA of the brand that I have been to raise awareness for the Global his T-shirt with his wife, Deborra-Lee TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY building for the past decade,” she noted Fund — an international financing Furness. “Deborra-Lee and I saw this strawberries and ice cream. Swinton For instance, the “bell bracelet” was institution dedicated to raising funds as an opportunity to use creativity marveled that she had been afforded formerly issued in all gold but is now to prevent and treat AIDS, malaria and to help further the movement to end unprecedented access to the Monaco covered in green tsavorites, blue and tuberculosis — and to launch Firth’s extreme poverty,” Jackman told WWD. Palace archives to research her pink sapphires, tea-colored diamonds Green Carpet Challenge collection. “Fashion has long inspired people. designs: “What a wonderful sandbox and tourmalines. The collection, which Firth, wife of actor Colin Firth, And through this collaboration with to play in. We pulled dreamscapes out has 40 pieces, ranges in price from $3,000 enlisted five British brands to create Cotton On Foundation, we hope to of it,” she enthused. Her main point to $75,000 and will be available starting dresses designed to meet social and inspire consumers everywhere to of reference, though, came from her in November. — ROXANNE ROBINSON environmental benchmarks developed support creative means of amplifying favorite Grace Kelly movie: “A robe she the message that we can end extreme wears coming out of the pool in ‘High poverty in our lifetime.” Society.’” — S.H.

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Anna Wintour with David COMMERCIAL and Victoria Beckham. REAL ESTATE

SALES I am an exp’d, aggressive salesperson, seeking position with mfg. of Jr., FOR LOVE AND PEACE: The multitasking by the GCC. Christopher Bailey for Jr+.Missy, Kids. 917-359-3741 social entrepreneur Peter Thum — who Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem Showrooms & Lofts in the past founded Ethos Water and Moralioglu, Roland Mouret and Victoria BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fonderie 47 — launched accessories Beckham each created two dresses for ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 label Liberty United with a big mission: the initiative — one gown and one to recycle illegal guns from American cocktail each — which will be sold cities and call upon artists to fashion on Net-a-porter from today. For every the metal materials into jewelry. The dress sold, Net-a-porter will make a brand, which launched in June with a 20 percent donation to Red, which capsule collection by Giles & Brother’s channels funds to help prevent the Philip Crangi, was created with the goal spread of AIDS from mother to child of funding programs to reduce gun through the Global Fund. violence in America. “This partnership is a natural one,” Next up in the guest designer role said Firth, who is more known for (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] is Pamela Love, who has designed a line her eco-awareness campaigns than 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 WWD.COM Luxe Brands Split Over E-commerce GPS Styles {Continued from page one} who teaches the master class online, described the luxury “Marketing of luxury Products,” Upgraded sector as “black and white,” di- such extreme exclusivity could vided into brands that have fully be part of a carefully constructed embraced e-commerce, and marketing strategy. By Rachel StRugatz those that prefer to maintain no “Some brands say, ‘We are selling presence online at all. so exclusive that we don’t wish NeW YORK — Fashion gPS the monobrand sites main- to sell online. Period.’ It might is about to give its gPS Styles tained by Yoox, including work,” Pucci-Sisti Maisonrouge software an upgrade — mak- armani, Dolce & gabbana, said. “take tom Ford’s first ing a virtual showroom a real- Brunello cucinelli, Maison fashion show [in September ity for potential clients. Martin Margiela, Roberto 2010, where no photos were al- today, the pioneer of cavalli, Jil Sander, Bally, lowed]. he suddenly got more digital fashion week invites Moschino, emilio Pucci, press than anyone else. By mak- will unveil gPS Styles 2.0 Valentino and Marni, made up ing a stand [in this way], it’s also in partnership with KcD — 30 percent of the Web operator’s a marketing strategy.” a B2B tool for media and overall business last year. She believes that in the “very press to request samples even though he is clearly a Some brands, such as Chanel, have largely foregone e-commerce… long term,” all brands will have or images directly from a big supporter, and beneficiary, an e-commerce presence in brand’s digital showroom. of e-commerce, Marchetti said some shape or form, but unlike through October, gPS Styles he “really respects brands with Yoox’s Marchetti, Pucci-Sisti 2.0 will function through a clear, well-defined strategy,” Maisonrouge is confident that lux- the Radar site at radar.fash- even if it’s one that means not ury brands can successfully take a iongps.com, with full func- selling online, like céline. “shades of gray” stance online. tionality on the mobile app “Don’t get in the middle “they might decide to selec- launching next month. — like different shades of tively put certain things and not gray. the middle is not clear,” others — look at hermès and Marchetti said of brands that Vuitton,” she said, adding that say they don’t “believe in e-com- even if e-commerce isn’t in the merce” but then wind up exper- immediate future, she recom- imenting or just selling select mends all brands experience at items online. “If you’re going to least a piece of the online space do it, you do everything. whether it’s on their own site or “We’re at the very beginning via any of the social platforms. of the story” he said. “the po- carolina herrera, although tential is much bigger; the fu- …while others, such as Gucci, sell everything online, including dog accessories. very active on Facebook, Pinterest ture is more important than the digital, if you want to keep en- oscardelarenta.com, which was and Instagram, still does not have present,” he said, noting that if gaging the consumer and keep relaunched last fall. e-commerce on the brand’s digital a luxury brand right now has positioning your brand and Many designers focus their flagship at carolinaherrera.com. 2 percent to 3 percent e-com- molding your business, you have online efforts on their accesso- the company is not opposed to merce turnover, the goal should to do it. there is no barrier, and ries businesses. louis Vuitton’s it, but has preferred to focus on be to increase that to between 5 the future is there, and you have digital flagship only sells acces- wholesale partnerships with re- percent and 10 percent. “In five to define what a luxury brand sories and Proenza Schouler re- tailers like Neiman Marcus and years’ time we can answer the experience is online.” cently redesigned its site, which Saks Fifth avenue. Product images from the Athena question about preserving in- e-commerce’s market share focuses on accessories. “[We] support all areas of Procopiou Gallery on the KCD tegrity, but right now there is no is still small — Forrester esti- But there are also very suc- digital communications for London virtual showroom via risk of dilution.” mates more than 90 percent of cessful brands that have fore- carolina herrera starting with radar.fashiongps.com. luxury powerhouse Kering, all luxury transactions are still gone e-commerce entirely, most the many ways to communicate for one, believes in the all-in ap- made in a store — but because notably chanel and céline. online through to e-commerce,” eddie Mullon, founder proach to e-commerce, having the channel is growing so rap- Neither appears to be suffering. said caroline Brown, president and chief executive officer entered into a joint venture with idly, Barbieri said any company apparel and accessories from of carolina herrera. “We view of Fashion gPS, said the Yo o x in June. that wants to develop a solid, French house céline are not our e-commerce relationship software allows clients to Nearly all of Kering’s luxury global business must sell online. available via celine.com or bar- with our wholesale partners just control their showrooms brands sell online, including “ Yo u must do it even to sup- neys.com, and if a consumer tries as we would another meaning- online. users will be able gucci, Bottega Veneta, Stella port your physical distribution. to search for the brand on the ful location in their network. In to manage both digital con- Mccartney and Saint laurent. It’s not one channel against the department store’s site, a mes- fact, what we have found is that tent and physical samples (Boucheron and girard- other, they are very intercon- sage pops up notifying them that the online business enhances through the system. Perregaux are the exceptions). nected,” Barbieri said, noting product is only available at physi- the bricks and mortar and vice “It’s becoming a digital gucci.com, for instance, sells that omnichannel promotion cal Barneys New York locations. versa.” that rationale might asset-management tool as the apparel for men and women, is especially important in the chanel is the most posted-about eventually push the company to fashion industry moves into handbags, shoes, jewelry and high-end sector. brand on Instagram — there its own e-commerce site. the digital world,” Mullon said. even dog accessories. More and more brands are are millions of images with the In the end, it might come “It was a platform to search “e-commerce is something increasingly jumping into the hashtag #chanel, despite the fact down to dollars and cents. product [the original gPS that we have to do or we have e-commerce pool with both feet. that the brand doesn’t have an of- “a brand could survive with- Styles] — but it wasn’t con- to define how to do it,” said Narciso Rodriguez and Victoria ficial presence on the platform. out e-commerce,” said tony necting to a community. Yo u Federico Barbieri, senior vice Beckham unveiled e-commerce chanel’s e-commerce reach is King, founder of digital agency couldn’t request a sample.” president of e-business at destinations carrying their full strictly limited to cosmetics. King & Partners that most re- earlier this year, the sev- Kering. “I can’t understand why range of products earlier this For Ketty Pucci-Sisti cently worked on Monique en-year-old company rolled the industry has been hesitant year. Oscar de la Renta also Maisonrouge, adjunct professor lhuillier’s Web site. “But it’s a out its Fashion gPS Radar or shy about jumping into it. In sells a broad array of goods at at the columbia Business School massive missed opportunity.” Pro service — which linked users to runway images and digital assets following an event. gPS Radar was origi- nally introduced in 2011 as a Doonan Divulges State of Industry at 92Y Talk tool for users to RSVP, check it gets people excited about the for their spring collections. in and see seating for events, By ROSeMaRY FeItelBeRg general idea about fashion and looking at designers over- and it now boasts more than maybe they go shopping. ” all, Doonan also spoke highly 13,000 users. For the spring WIcKeDlY DeScRIPtIVe in thom Browne’s show earned of Martin Margiela, azzedine 2014 season so far, there have rehashing the high and lows of major praise from Doonan alaïa, Romeo gigli and been more than 500,000 gal- his memoir “asylum” Monday — “It’s good to have that in christian lacroix. Recalling lery views on gPS Radar, and night at 92Y in Manhattan, Simon america” — while Proenza how alber elbaz once trans- in September alone, 50 per- Doonan also detailed the fashion Schouler’s Jack Mccollough formed some flip-flop-wearing cent of the 4,000 images fa- world’s current state of mind. and lazaro hernandez went to los angeles models with coca- vorited on the platform were Wrapping up his talk with “a whole other level of sophisti- cola-stained teeth into exis- shared via social mediums. Fern Mallis, Doonan, Barneys cation” this season. their debut tentialist Sorbonne students as for gPS Samples, which New York’s creative ambassador “created a problem in a way be- circa 1968 for a lanvin event at has tracked more than 15 mil- at large, said, “Fashion week cause their first collection was Barneys, Doonan said, “that’s lion samples in the past five has gone to this mad Mardi bought and sold at Barneys, so a what fashion is supposed to years, Mullon explained that gras, whirligig, hook-line-and- lot of kids think now that that’s do, make you more interesting, the service is a back-end tool sideshow, [that] you don’t quite the model for how to succeed. glamorous and substantive.” for agencies and clients — know why people are there. the real model is being able Barneys’ former creative di- whereas Styles 2.0 is a front- sen K People have lost sight of the fact to schlep for somebody else for rector said, “Buyers are like the end software for users to re- ric e

that it is in fact a trade show. 15 years and then decide if you great unsung heroes of fashion. quest samples. KcD will work What we’re seeing are clothes want to open your own compa- I don’t know why designers put a with the new platform exclu- Simon Kyle that will be available — maybe ny,” said Doonan. buyer in the third row and some sively until a wide launch of Doonan — if a buyer buys them four, five Maria cornejo and Victoria blogger who is still in diapers the software, set for January, in

Photo by or six months from now. I guess Bartlett were also singled out practically in the first row.” time for pre-fall collections.

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