Four Headwaters Trail Through the St Gotthard Massif

Home , Furka Pass, Gotthard Pass, Nufenen Pass, Reuss (river)

A hike to the headwaters of the Rivers Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhone. Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gotthard Massif Lak e Grim - r Lake Göscheneralp sel e e i La n Göschenen ke O c Sidelen be o a raar Source of the l h Hut SAC R G

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Grimsel Pass Lake 5 Tiefenbach Tote Andermatt

- otthard Oberalp Pass orn-G B) Furk Matterh y (MG a mo Railwa Furka Pass (st unt Oberwald eam ain ake ra s L lp ilw e bera a ct O Gletsch y) io ne n l Realp Ulrichen ho e Hospental R n ) n s tu s e Münster e r s p Headwaters 4 a x B E B - - l GB) r B of the Rhine ne hn (M a e hi rd-Ba k e d R ha i d n S ott Obergesteln r r -G c r l orn u s n a erh F a a e att l s u h h Lake Toma M G u t t n ( t t e t n d o o u R a t G G o Tschamut y r a Vermigel Sedrun w l i Maighels Lake a Hut SAC r Hut SAC Headwaters Lucendro s of the lp Gotthard Pass a 2 1 N Nufenen Pass Gotthard-Reuss e Lake Val Maighels k a Piansecco Sella L Hut SAC Lucendro Pass Maighels Pass

Lake Gries Cruina 3 Ti Headwaters cin Bedretto o Villa Airolo of the Ticino All’Acqua Ronco Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 Reproduced by permission of swisstopo (BA120056) 2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m Village 2500 m 2500 m INFORMATION ABOUT DAY HIKES Stages5 can also be 4 5 6 7 2 3 Platinum sponsors: 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 3e_500cmyk_LT_feb10 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 2 Source of the 4 Source of 1 7 House/Hut1 4 the Rhone STAGESthe Rhine 1- 5 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 8 done as day hikes 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m Food 1750 m 1750 m 3 EFFORT Distance: 85 km/Time: about 32 hrs./ GETTING THERE/AWAY Starting and end 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 8 Ascent:hrs./min. 1/50 > 6,161 2/50 > m/Descent: 4/05 > 5/20 > 5,932 m pointshrs./min. 1/19 > are 2/40 > serviced 4/24 > 5/15 by > buses or trains hrs./min. Accommodation 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30Dr. > 5/50 Christoph > 7/30 > Blocher, hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 > DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly hiking on MAPS Switzerland national map 1:50,000, Bus former Federal Councilor marked trails (SAC rating: T2/T3) No. 5001 “Gotthard”. Excerpts reduced Train START Oberalp Pass 15 percent (see pages 10, 16, 22, 28, 34). Shopping Support from: FINISH Hotel Belvédère INFOrmation www.four-headwaters-trail.ch

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2015 m 1996 m 1982 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1355 m 1368 m 1757 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Ri di Ri di Piansecco Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Ober- Ober- Gletsch Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Pass Sella Pass Lucendro Pass Cavanna Bedretto Hut SAC Cruina road gesteln wald (steam railway) Pass Belvédère

2500 m 2250 m Source of the Source of 2000 m Source of Headwaters of the Rhine Gotthard-Reuss the Ticino the Rhone 1750 m 1500 m 5 hrs. 20 min. 14.4 km > 5 hrs. 15 min. 12.8 km > 7 hrs. 30 min. 20.6 km > 7 hrs. 19.8 km > 7 hrs.15 min. 17 km > Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5

through the StGottard Massif Four Headwaters Trail Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gotthard Massif Foundation Massif Gotthard St the Trail through Headwaters Four by Edited Rhone. and Ticino Reuss, Rhine, Rivers the of headwaters to the A hike Table of Contents

5 Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gotthard Massif 7 Off to the headwaters! 8 From the Oberalp Pass to the Source of the Rhine Stage 1: Oberalp Pass – Lake Toma (Source of the Rhine) – Maighel Pass – Vermigel Hut 14 From the Vermigel Hut to the Gotthard Pass Stage 2: Vermigel Hut – Sella Pass – Piz Giübin – Lake Sella – Gotthard Pass 20 From the Gotthard Pass to the Source of the Reuss Stage 3: Gotthard Pass – Lake Lucendro – Source of the Reuss – Lucendro Pass – Piansecco Hut All rights reserved © 2012 Four Headwaters Trail Foundation, Altdorf 26 From the Piansecco Hut to the headwaters of the Ticino Stage 4: Piansecco Hut – Headwaters of CONTENT MAP AND TRAIL DESCRIPTIONS the Ticino – Nufenen Pass – Obergesteln Josef Arnold-Luzzani, Schattdorf 32 From the Upper Goms to the Source of the Rhone Stage 5: Obergesteln – Gletsch – Furka Pass – DESIGN AND LAYOUT Rhone Glacier (source of the Rhone) – Hotel Belvédère Armin Furrer, Furrer Graphic Design, Lucerne 38 Rivers and Paths Shape Development The Gotthard Region – A cultural overview EDITORIAL AND PRODUCTION Edith Jörg, pr-work jörg, Lucerne 52 Rich Diversity of Plants and Animals A natural history journey in five stages Translation 60 How Mountains Grow and Recede Tim Neville, www.timneville.net A five-stage hike through geological history production and distribution 70 Reservoirs of Water Power Gamma Druck + Verlag AG, Medien-Atelier, Altdorf Harnessing water in the St Gotthard Massif 76 Practical Information 1st edition 2012 79 Appendix, bibliography and credits Printed in Switzerland ISBN: 978-3-906200-49-1 80 Acknowledgements Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gottard Massif

The Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers all begin in the Gotthard region and that gave Paul Dubacher from Seed- orf the idea for the Four Headwaters Paul Dubacher, Trail. He’s something of a specialist founder and project when it comes to hiking trails and was leader of the Four instrumental, for example, in forming Headwaters Trail routes like the “Swiss Path” around Lake Lucerne and the “Railway Trails” of the Gotthard region. In 2009 Dubacher got to work once and highlights the central role that wa- again. That same year the Four Head- ter has played for man, animals and waters Trail Foundation was founded plants. with well-known people from the four cantons that make up the Gotthard re- Things to know about the Gotthard gion (see page 78). The inauguration The hiking guidebook to the Four followed in 2012. Headwaters Trail includes trail descrip- For more information please visit tions as well as fascinating background www.four-headwaters-trail.ch. information on the region’s cultural history, flora and fauna, geological phe- Mountain hiking in five stages nomena, climate change and the har- The Four Headwaters Trail is a family- nessing of water for hydropower. friendly trek of about 85 km through In this way a hiker can make sense the alpine country where the Rhine, of and learn more about the area. The Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers begin. It best bits of background information is broken up into five segments, each of will become apparent: How have hu- which with starting and end points that mans throughout the ages impacted the are serviced by public transport. Gotthard region; why mountains are Hiking through portions of cantons never at ease; which plants are worth a Uri, Graubünden, Ticino and Valais closer look; and how important is it to takes you through unique landscapes turn the region’s water into power.

4 5 Off to the headwaters!

Water and springs have a magical pow- Hiking lends wings to thoughts er of attraction. Springing discretely Glaciers have held stores of water for from the depths and flowing eventually millennia and have become a symbol into the sea, water lends itself to a for security, hope and confidence. By cross-cultural metaphor for the fate of contrast their disappearance triggers a us all: The lively, happy-go-lucky brook fear of the future, but fear and hardship of youth matures into the wide ship- also foster human ingenuity. From that bearing current of adulthood before has sprung an environmentally friendly fading away into the infinity of the sea. and sustainable art of engineering. Water is a magical power: People Water as a creative power have harnessed its force with mills and Springs are a reflection of the times: In turned it into electricity. Water is a moments of uncertainty the call to re- splendid artist: Its power has formed turn to our roots and where it all began marvelous, often bizarre and savage rings loudly. In times of heady opti- landscapes, as well as fields that nour- mism it’s easy to forget origins and tra- ish people, plants and animals. dition. Springs are places of power, pu- When you head to the four headwa- rity and life. They were even the places ters of the Gotthard massif, maybe where children came from, according keep this thoughts in mind. Over hills to some old folk tales. and down the dales, let yourself sepa- Water has the two faces of Janus: It rate real everyday problems from those can destroy with a flood and spawn life that are imagined. He who wanders with a refreshing rain. Water shortages sifts through his thoughts to find gold spark wars or create laws founded in nuggets of insight here and there. Your peace. The Code of Hammurabi (1850 body isn’t just the better for it. Your BC) includes stipulations over water mind is, too. Now off to the source! rights. Josef Arnold-Luzzani, Schattdorf

6 7 stage 1 From the Oberalp Pass to the Source of the Rhine

The first stage leads from the Oberalp The stage in four sections Pass, past the source of the Rhine at Lake Toma and concludes at the Vermigel Hut. The Maighel Pass marks the highest point of this section of the hike where the idyllic Lake Portgeren invites visitors to linger.

The Matterhorn-Gotthard Railway (MGB) runs to the top of the 2044-meter-high The young Rhine flows toward Tschamut. Oberalp Pass from canton Graubünden from the east or from Andermatt in the Ursern Valley from the west. It’s possible to reach the pass on foot from Göschenen, Andermatt, Sedrun or Tschamut (see map overview, page 1). Get your bearings at the yellow hiking sign and head out on the trail toward Lake Toma. The source of the Rhine at Lake Toma. A worthy goal – the idyllic Lake Toma. Those who prefer a longer, more sporty variation to reach the lake can INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 1 follow the signs to the Pazolastock EFFORT Distance: 14.5 km/Time: 5 hrs. 20 min./Ascent: 1100m/Descent: 1100 m DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T1/T2). (2740 m). After a short, sloping section 1 START AND FINISH Start at the Oberalp Pass. Finish at the Vermigel Hut. along the pass road a path climbs Route Oberalp Pass (2044 m) – Lake Toma (2345 m) – Maighel Valley – gently across the flanks of the Pazolas- Maighel Pass (2421 m) – Alp Portgeren – Vermigel Hut (2042 m) tock. The imposing wall of the dammed PROVISIONS Maighel and Vermigel SAC huts (during hiking season). Curnera reservoir is visible for a short ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 1 Vermigel Hut, reservations recommended, Tel. 041-887-17-73 or while to the south. At a fork in the trail Lake Urlaun in the Maighel Valley. 062-534-00-35, [email protected]. Maighel Hut (about halfway through first stage): 2 Reservations: 081-949-15-51, [email protected]. at Trutg (2056 m) a path winds up- GETTING THERE Train to the Oberalp Pass from Andermatt (Uri) or Disentis Sedrun (Graubünden). wards along a gravel road to the RETURN FOR DAY HIKES Walk to Andermatt from the Vermigel Hut (2.5 hrs.). Train and bus Maighel Hut 6 . The hut, at 2310 meters, connections available in Andermatt. is run by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) MAPS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all five stages). and offers room and board. But to com- See page 10 for map excerpts of stage 1 (reduced 15 percent). plete this section of the hike continue INFORMATION www.four-headwaters-trail.ch; Tourist Info Uri: www.uri.info; to climb southwesterly for about 300 Andermatt-Urserntal Tourismus GmbH: www.andermatt.ch; Graubünden Tourism: www.graubuenden.ch; Leventina Tourism: www.leventinaturismo.ch; meters up some switchbacks through The Vermigel Hut, the first day’s goal. Tessin Tourism: www.ticino.ch; Train and bus connections: www.sbb.ch steep pastures that become increasingly

8 9 FROM THE OBERALP PASS TO THE SOURCE OF THE RHINE stage 1

littered with large boulders and natural stone steps. Up here the invasive nois- THE “REAL” SOURCE OF THE RHINE es of civilization – namely motorcycle The source of a river is generally considered traffi c on the nearby pass road – fade to be the highest or farthest point (along the into silence. river) from its mouth. In the high mountains After this fi rst, steep ascent the bril- many nameless streams from various direc- tions all converge in a small lake, which is liant waters of a mountain lake tucked why the word “headwaters” is often used. in a basin at the foot of the Badus begin Lake Toma was dubbed the source of the to gleam: The Lai da Tuma or Lake To- Rhine by Placidus A. Spescha (1752-1833), ma (2345 m), the source of the Rhine 3 . a Benedictine father and a naturalist who made the fi rst ascent of the Badus. If you go 1 The lake’s Rhaeto-Romansh name re- calls the lake’s features: it’s located be- by the point farthest from the Rhine’s outlet, the Medelser Rhine would actually be the hind a Tuma or hill – so Lake Hill, if river’s source since it fl ows through both you will. the Cadlimo and Medel valleys and is a good Those who have the time, strength 5 km longer than the Toma Rhine. and will can opt to do an additional 2 loop either along the lake or over the summit on the right to the Badus Hut through a narrow, steep trough down

3 (2503 m) at the foot of the Pazolastock. toward Tschamut through the Plaun A refreshing plunge from a protruding Verdastch. (To read more on the name boulder at the back of the lake into the “Tschamut” and early settlements in the

4 chilly pool is only recommended for valley please see page 42.) Be careful the hardiest of hikers. crossing the stream: snow can last well

6 After taking in a pleasant panoramic into summer here. 5 view of the upper Surselva and Calmot, Following a newly built path that re- behind which loom the Oberalpstock, places the rough descent to the dusty Tödi and other imposing peaks, two road leading to the Maighel Hut, the small steps is all you need to cross the trail leads to a sunny saddle (2358 m) 4 young Anterior Rhine which rumbles above Lake Urlaun. The path then in- Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 8 S TA G E 1 > Distance 14.5 km > Time 5 hrs. 20 min. > Ascent 1100 m > Descent 1100 m 1 2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3 7 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of Source of 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhone the Rhine 8 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6

1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 >

From the Oberalp Pass to the Source of the Rhine stage 1

places peat has formed over the centu- THE WAY OF THE RHINE ries. (For more on the flora and fauna After a long, 1,230-km journey the Rhine see page 53). flows into the North Sea near Rotterdam, At the “Piogn Crap” (roughly trans- Europe’s largest port. Along the way, many lated as “Bridge by the Rock”), behold a tributaries transform the feisty little stream at Lake Toma into a wide river that has become magnificent masterpiece of nature: a the most heavily used waterway in Europe. several-meter-deep gorge, narrow at the At Reichenau/Tamis the Anterior and Hinter top, carved by centuries of water flow- Rhine join together to form the so-called Al- ing down from the Maighel Glacier and pine Rhine, which flows into Lake Constance. the Bornengo Pass. It is so narrow at Shy marmots are always around. From there it becomes the High Rhine until the top that one is almost lured into Basel, with the Aare River flowing into it at Koblenz. After Basel, the river is known as leaping over it. Later the trail crosses the Upper Rhine, which runs to Bingen, Ger- the terminal moraine that the eastern many, and is joined by the Neckar and Main Maighel Glacier left behind after its last rivers along the way. From there the river be- advance around 1850. comes the Middle Rhine until Bonn, a stretch Soon the trail arrives at another fork joined by the Lahn and Mosel rivers that at Plaunca Portgera (2374 m) and climbs flows around the mythical Loreley cliff near St Goarshausen. Finally the wide and placid to the right up to the Maighel Pass Lower Rhine begins after Bonn, flowing (2421 m) 7 , where the idyllic Lake through the north German lowlands and Portgeren twinkles. North American forming the Rhine-Meuse Delta at the Ger- lake trout, brown trout as well as rain- Lake Toma, or Lai da Tuma in Rhaeto-Romansh, at the Scheuchzers cottongrass, base of Piz Badus, means “lake behind the hill.” a common wetland plant. man-Dutch border. It then eases through a bow trout make this a popular place for large natural region to spill into the North Sea anglers. The view spreads to the north near Rotterdam. with the Portgerenstock, to the south- Graubünden” was developed and has the tranquil Unteralp Valley for a good west over the slopes of the Alp Wilden- been used as the official dialect since 2.5 hours to reach Andermatt. Watch for tersects the access road just mentioned matten and up to the Piz Giübin near 2001. On the way from the Oberalp chamois on the eastern slopes of the (2263 m) 5 . A few meters beyond the the Sella Pass. The Maighel Pass marks Pass to the Maighel Pass, one can learn Gafallengrat and the Gurschenstöckli, intersection a trail branches off to the the end of canton Graubünden and the a few words of Sursilvan: plaunca particularly during mornings and eve- right toward Lolen Pass (Pass Tagliola, Rhaeto-Romansh-speaking regions. (slope or flank), piogn (catwalk-like nings. On the right you’ll probably see 2399 m), and a bit further to the south, Traditionally five dialects of Rhaeto- bridges often running along the sides marmots with their shrill whistles. To a spur trail heads toward the manmade Romansh are spoken and written in of cliffs), trutg (mountain path), crap avoid bike and vehicular traffic, you can Curnera reservoir. canton Graubünden of southeast Swit- (rock or crag). cross the Unteralp Reuss near Heu- Stay on the access road that soon zerland: Sursilvan (in the Anterior The route then zig-zags along a path plangg and wander through lonely ends with a well-beaten, often mucky Rhine region), Sutsilvan (in portions of (that’s also an official mountain bike meadows, passing a rest area, to reach path that leads into the wide, flat area the Hinter Rhine region), Surmiran (in trail) over alpine meadows, past ponds the center of Andermatt directly. Save a of the Maighel Valley and its many tad- the Upper Engadine and Albula val- and down to a bridge over the Unteralp little energy for a visit to the Mariahilf pole-choked ponds. The valley boasts leys), Puter (in the Upper Engadine) Reuss river (1978 m). A short but steep Chapel above the village. After a hard the typical flora and fauna of a wetland and Vallader (in the Lower Engadine). climb brings you to the goal for the winter in 1720 the priest is said to have with cottongrass, sedges and yellow-or- In order to create consistency out of day, the Vermigel Hut (2042 m) 8 . attached a picture of the Virgin Mary to ange blossoming saxifrage. The moors the truly different dialects for bureau- which can sleep 40 people. a tree. The townspeople started to put are green in summer and spring, yel- cratic matters, a standard dialect called DAY HIKING This section can be done as a their faith in this small wayside shrine low and brown in autumn. In a few “Rumantsch Grishun” or “Romansh of day hike by wandering down through and in 1724 build a chapel there.

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