Croatia's Dalmatian Coast

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Naturetrek Tour Report 10 - 17 April 2019

Calandra Lark

Bunch-flowered Narcissus

Great Peacock Moth Four-spotted Orchid

Report and images by Paul Tout

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Croatia's Dalmatian Coast

Tour participants: Paul Tout (leader) with 8 Naturetrek clients

Day 1 Wednesday 10th April

Gatwick to Split, transfer to Vrana The group arrived at Split Airport in Croatia’s second city on their flight from Gatwick just a few minutes behind schedule in the late afternoon. Croatia is a horseshoe-shaped country of 4.1 million people and 57,000 km2 which borders (clockwise) Montenegro, the Adriatic, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Slovenia, Hungary, and Serbia. Upon arrival, just before 5pm, and having got through the passport control we met up with Paul Tout, our tour leader.

Loading our luggage into the minibuses, we set off towards Vrana, about a 70 minute drive away along the motorway towards the city of Zadar and at 18:30 we arrived at our hotel, the Maškovića Han, a converted 17th century Turkish caravanserai, the most north-western in the Ottoman Empire and a sort of fortified motel for travelling merchants. It is considered the most striking surviving piece of Ottoman architecture in Europe and was originally built as a retirement palace for Jusuf Mašković, an Ottoman vizier and admiral who had taken the surrender of Venetian forces at the end of the siege of Crete. Showing mercy on the Venetian troops and allowing them to sail away without their weapons, for his pains he was later executed by Sultan Ibrahim on 21st January 21 1646!

Day 2 Thursday 11th April

Island of Pag: Veliko Blato, Malo Blato and Fortica After breakfast at 8am, we met up outside the hotel at 9am, before embarking on our first full day. Normally the first day would be one spent orientating ourselves in the area around the hotel which is extremely rich in wildlife. Today, however, the local weather forecast was rather poor with cold and rain forecast so Paul decided to bring forward Friday’s programme with the visit to Pag about one hour away up the motorway and over the Pag Bridge, stopping on the way for a substantial 2kg piece of paski sir, Pag sheeps’ cheese considered the best in Croatia. Pag is much drier than the mainland and we were able to avoid the worst of the rain with just a few spots at various times during the day.

Our first stop was a small area of wetland backing on to an area of saltmarsh close to the southern end of the island. Here the marshy area grades from salty to freshwater and often attracts a large number of migrant birds. Things did not look too promising at first but slowly the birds present began to reveal themselves. The lagoon held several duck species including Shoveler, Wigeon and Teal as well as waders such as Spotted and Common Redshank, Grey Plover and Wood Sandpiper while the vegetation and pools bordering the lagoon held a Blue- headed Wagtail and a there was a brief view of Little Bittern for some lucky observers. The other side of the road and further from the saltmarsh the water regime is evidently fresher and the close-cropped turf was greener but much drier than in previous springs although a pair of Lapwing was going about its displays and the ubiquitous Corn Buntings were in song everywhere. Single migrating Marsh and Hen Harriers flew through, the latter showing the heavy build, pale plumage and broad white rump of a “ringtail” which we were able to contrast with those of the confusion species Montagu’s Harrier later in the day.

From here we moved on to Veliko Blato, a large shallow lake and an Important Bird Area protected under the

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

EU’s Natura2000 programme. This site is a magnet for both migrants and breeding birds in the harsh, dry, rocky landscape of Pag and we were not disappointed. As we walked down towards the lake some local shepherds were gathering up lambs, it being just before Easter (!) and the flock had attracted a large gathering of about 20 Yellow Wagtails of a range of races (flava, cinereocapilla and feldegg) as well as one of the few White Wagtails of the trip, together with a lone (and very early) Whinchat. The edge of the lake held a flock of at least eight Little Ringed Plovers and a Hoopoe delighted everyone with a close fly-by. Marsh Harriers, Purple and Grey Herons and Great Egrets, Pygmy and Great Cormorants flew up and down over the extensive reedbeds while a single Spoonbill emerged from the marsh and flew over our heads.

Moving along the lake edge towards a small plantation of Maritime Pines (one of the few true woods on Pag) we spotted a single Little Owl on the roof of one of the many makeshift stables dotted about the landscape and had good views through the telescope. We heard the odd call of Stone Curlew from amongst the stony pastures which are dominated by Branched Asphodel (Asphodelus ramosus) - utterly inedible and poisonous to all but the hordes of red and white Mirid plant bugs, probably of the species Capsodes infuscatus. A few butterflies were also seen including many Wall Browns and a strange, dwarf Clouded Yellow, about the size of a Gatekeeper and probably affected by the winter drought as it was not the only dwarf butterfly seen during the week.

Paul popped back to collect the van while the group waited at a promising spot on the lake shore that yielded several interesting birds including Eurasian Curlew, Avocet and Greenshank. Lunch was a picnic by the lake accompanied by Coots, Yellow-legged Gulls and several Mute Swans but when one of the participants pointed out a dark brown butterfly fluttering low over the rocky ground Paul was after it like a shot. Soon, as the sun came out, there were several on the wing - Dalmatian Ringlet! This is a very rare endemic subspecies, ssp. dalmata of Protoerebia afra, (recently renamed Protoerebia phegea dalmata), a largely Asian species first described from Croatia by the French lepidopterist Jean Baptiste Godart in 1824. It was once considered extremely rare but more than 60 new colonies have been identified in recent years by Croatian entomologists.

After a brief, wheel-spinningly muddy and rather unproductive diversion alongside the lake, about which the less said the better, we moved on to the nearby Malo Blato, a rather different type of wetland in which seawater has invaded the 4.5 km2 polje, a broad flat area of eroded-out bedrock and replaced with deep soil set and within limestone geology. The area closest the sea is very salty, with short, saltmarsh vegetation but further inland there are extensive beds of sedge and rush that support as many as a dozen pairs of Montagu’s Harriers. We saw five or six birds, both males and females which showed well, both perched and in flight although their usual displays were subdued as a result of the strong wind and overcast, drizzly conditions.

Moving on in a circular fashion and heading back towards the bridge we stopped at a splendid meadow almost completely covered with Bunch-flowered Narcissus (Narcissus tazetta). These spring-flowering daffodils are widespread where sandy meadows occur in Dalmatia and although their heady scent did not fill the air on this breezy day, the spectacle was notable. Paul spotted a single bird on the water in the bay alongside the road and it proved to be a Black-throated Diver in its summer plumage. It was soon joined by a second in its dowdy winter garb.

Our final stop which was just for the view was at Fortica, just below the bridge. Here the ruins of a Venetian fort remain that once guarded the channel between Pag and the mainland from Ottoman raiders whose most

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northerly “push” in the 17th century brought their Empire to “Saddislam” (“the wall of Islam”) 25km to the south-east. Fortiza means “little fort” in Venetian.

Back across the bridge, we headed directly to the hotel along the main motorway

Day 3 Friday 12th April

Vransko Jezero / Lake Vrana: Vrana, boardwalk and Kamenjak panoramic viewpoint After dodging the wind and rain of the previous day with our trip to Pag, today we were forced to “take it on the chin” close to the hotel on what would prove the worst day in weather terms. Setting off across the field behind the hotel we made our way to the main Ornithogical Reserve through the village of Vrana, but not before checking out a singing male Blue Rock Thrush on the ruins of the Templar castle close by. The first interesting birds on the walk were a Hoopoe, a calling Wryneck (which did not show) and several Crested Larks, all in the village.

Moving out of the village, in spite of the blustery conditions we were treated to close fly-bys of both male Montagu’s Harrier and Hobby and on into the scrubland bordering the lake we began to encounter some of the typical breeding birds including Sardinian and Subalpine Warbler as well as several Linnets and a Serin in song in the dense Mediterranean scrub of Phillyrea, Prickly Juniper, Lentisk and Myrtle. Close to the lake we heard a migrant Lesser Whitethroat (a mountain species around the Mediterranean) and a Nightingale.

From here we headed to the boardwalk on the northern shore of the lake but by now conditions were very difficult, with intermittent (but thankfully light) squally showers and a strong north-easterly geostrophic wind coming over the Velebit mountain chain and here called a ‘burja’ from the Russian buryan and the Venetian Italian bora and typical of the Eastern Adriatic, sometimes reaching 200 kph but thankfully not today. Water levels in the lake were very low for the time of year after the very dry winter and sadly most of the normally-flooded meadows were completely dry. Plans are underway to construct a sluice on the drainage canal at the southern end of the lake, preventing seawater ingression during high tides and reducing outputs at times of low rainfall to ensure this does not happen again.

Birds included hundreds of Barn Swallows over the lake, joined by a few Alpine and a single Common Swift. On the sandy shore of the nearby campsite about 40 Black-winged Stilts and a few Northern Shovelers huddled to await the passing of the storm. Out on the water several pairs of Great Crested Grebes and small groups of Coot were joined by the odd Pygmy Cormorant. Herons were still active, however and Grey and Purple Herons were seen, together with Little and Great Egrets.

At this point we headed off looking for somewhere relatively sheltered for lunch and went to the Kamenjak, or panoramic viewpoint overlooking the lake to make the most of very clear conditions. On our arrival we set out the lunch on the refuge’s tables with the permission of the staff (thank you!) and out of the wind. A Short-toed Eagle seemed unworried by the gale, effortlessly holding position, its head into the wind.

After lunch we walked along the interpretative path providing lots of information on the lake, its vegetation and wildife. In addition to the wide range of Mediterranean flora, perhaps the star of the show were a couple of Wild Tulips (Tulipa sylvestris) in flower, emerging from the scree. Paul had no idea that the species occurred this far

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

north on this side of the Adriatic and there appear to be no records of this plant on the reserve and it seems it was recorded for the first time in Croatia only in 2012 in Istria by Dr. R.K Rottensteiner who confirmed from photographs that our plants were of the subspecies australis! Paul now wonders whether someone actually planted a bulb of this species as it seems impossibile that such a spectacular plant could remain unobserved in that context!

The walk down from the viewpoint did not reveal any of the hoped-for Four-spotted Orchids (Orchis quadripunctata) as the site where Paul had found them in 2018 had been used to extend the car-park! We did however find a single very dark Green-winged Orchid (O. morio) and some fine stands of Matted Globularia (Globularia cordifolia) and a very prostrate form of Common Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum).

Day 4 Saturday 13th April

Krka National Park: Drniš grassland and Skradinski Buk falls Today we headed south along the motorway towards the Krka River National Park, famous for the powerful Skradinski Buk waterfalls, but our first stop was the open grasslands just outside the park and close to the town of Drniš. These were once well-maintained by local shepherds but rapid depopulation means that fewer animals can now spread out across larger areas and the previously open nature of the habitat is now becoming covered with Prickly Juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus). This is not a problem for much of the flora yet as there is plenty of space between the bushes but it is affecting certain bird species that require open spaces and a good all-round view.

A pair of Short-toed Eagles moved through as we walked from the van across the grassland and it wasn’t long before we reached a site where Paul has seen our target species the previous year. Here there they were, three or four Calandra Larks chasing each other. They breed only here in Croatia and stopping alongside the road, the sun behind us we were treated to excellent views in spite of the wind, the species’ strange bat-like display flight reminiscent of Little Ringed Plover, the black underwing and the song delivered from a bush, and the bird’s raised tail were all easily observed.

A Hoopoe crossed our path as we made our way across the road but little was added to the list apart from the opportunity to taste some Wild Spiny Asparagus (Asparagus acutifolius) raw! Making our way back to the van we encountered some strange rosettes of very broad furry leaves that we were unable to identify. Photographs were taken of these and a showy, scented Thrift-like plant growing across the grassland. The former proved to be Silver Sage (Salvia argentata), only added to the National Park’s plant list a few years ago and Tuberous Valerian (Valeriana tubersosa), a circum-Mediterranean species but found only in Central Dalmatia in Croatia.

After teas and coffees in a local bar with some colourful local characters interested in our appearance in such an isolated spot we moved on to the National Park itself for an early lunch in the large gravel car-park filled with coaches and other vehicles, although there were lots of Chaffinches, Goldfinches and Serins in the Aleppo Pines providing shade and these dropped down now and then to feed on weeds and dropped crumbs.

Having paid the entrance tickets we elected to save the bus for the journey back and made our way down the steep path alongside the road, adding Rustyback Fern (Asplenium ceterach) and Ivy-leaved Cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium) to the plant list. As we made our way down to the falls themselves both Nightingale and Cetti’s

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Warbler were in full voice from the damp woodland dominated by Narrow-leaved Ash (Fraxinus angustifolius) alongside the road.

The falls were the real spectacle, however and it had rained heavily in the mountains 48 hours earlier so they were in full spate. Birds proved difficult to see in the thick woods and difficult to hear over the roar of the water but we managed to add Grey Wagtail, Common Sandpiper and the only Great Spotted Woodpecker of the trip. The sunny, sheltered position and the abundance of willows meant the very worn Camberwell Beauty spotted sunning itself shouldn’t have come as a surprise but it did. Other interesting butterflies added included a single Nettle-tree and two Cleopatras amidst the myriad Brimstones.

The walk around the falls is quite a long one, about 90 minutes along boardwalks and steps, so by the time we got back to the bus it was time to make our way back to the hotel and a short rest before another lovely dinner in the beautiful hotel restaurant.

Day 5 Sunday 14th April

Lake Vrana / Vransko Jezero – scrubland above the lake, northern canal and fishing port Today the weather had cleared sufficiently for us to engage in another local walk so we set off along a good path running through the edge of the Ornithological Reserve above the lake. While we did get quite good views of Short-toed Eagle hunting over the scrubland it was cold and windy, so a potential prey species for the eagle, a beautifully-marked Leopard Snake (Zamenis situla) slithering across the track for all to see was something of a surprise. This is a true Mediterranean species and gets no further north in Croatia than Istria. There were of course some plants to see too including large stands of the beautiful Cretan Anchusa (Anchusa cretica) while the first Hairy Rockroses (Cistus x incanus) were just coming into flower but the high winds took their toll and we were grateful to wander back to the van when the time came.

By now, as often happens, the burja wind had begun to drop towards midday and the sun had come out so Plan B involved a walk along the main entrance canal feeding the lake. At the road bridge a small Acrocephalus warbler in song from the thick of a reedbed suggested a very early Reed Warbler (with a noisy Great Reed Warbler alongside for comparison) but both the early date and the characteristic descending Nightingale-like “dee-dee-dee” section of the song firmly indicated a late Moustached Warbler. Almost the entire Hungarian population of this species winters at Lake Vrana to the extent that Hungarian bird-ringers carry out regular camps at the site to recapture their own birds on the wintering grounds! Not much else of any importance was added apart from a group of about 30 Garganey in one of the back-channels and a calling Quail together with some large stands of Summer Snowflake (Lecojum aestivum). As we got back to the van Paul spotted a Cuckoo perched in a roadside Sallow directly behind it. It was not calling and frankly looked utterly exhausted. It had evidently just arrived.

For lunch we made our way to the small fishing port at Prosika where a canal through the limestone, blasted out by the Venetians in the 1770s and was used to lower the lake and bring large areas of fertile farmland north-west of Vrana into cultivation. This idyllic spot, with tables and shade trees, was perfect for a picnic and on the walk along the canal afterwards we added some interesting plants including Early Spider Orchid, Illyrian Iris and the leaves of the strange Pitch Trefoil (Bituminaria bituminosa).

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Getting back to the hotel a little early, most of the group accompanied Paul on a short walk behind the lake along the route he had done in late afternoon a couple of days previously following the no-show of the Four- spotted Orchids (O. quadripunctata). Here, unencumbered by car-parks we added several dozen fine specimens plus half-a-dozen pale yellow Few-flowed orchids (Dactylorhiza pauciflora) and a single very early Three-toothed Orchid (O. tridentata). Two more specimens of Dalmatian Ringlet were seen and several plants of the pretty yellow pea Argyrolobium zanonii (no common name). A single Rock Partridge was heard calling and some lucky members of the group saw it as it flew by and disappeared.

Day 6 Monday 15th April

Paklenica National Park: Veliko Rujno and Mala Paklenica After a local day yesterday, today we moved a little further afield to the Paklenica National Park, just under an hour from the hotel along the motorway. In Paul’s opinion the main canyon is best avoided as it is full of tourists and rock-climbers at this time of year, rather claustrophobic and slippery underfoot, polished by the steps of thousands of boots and offers little that more accessible nearby areas do not have.

Our first port-of-call involved a steep uphill drive to Veliko Rujno at about 900m above sea level. Paul stopped the van on the way up to examine a dead “snake” on the road, thinking it might be a Horn-nosed Viper but it proved to be an Ophisaurus, a sort of giant Slow-worm half-a-metre long and found from Istria south-eastwards and down through the Balkans and the Middle East.

A few lucky people in the front had views of Rock Partridge and Rock Thrush as we drove up the excellent road. But on arrival the area proved disappointing. Not least because it was very cold, the bora was howling a gale and much of the area’s spruce forest appeared to have been devastated by wind-throw and subsequently cleared. What was more it was still late winter up here with Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas) still in flower, a shrub that had bloomed in mid-February on the coast further north. A few species were added to the list including the Woodlark, Raven, Mistle Thrush, Common Buzzard (inexplicably rare here) and Robin but we soon began our gradual descent towards the coast, taking advantage of the “advancing spring” as we went.

A short stop at one spot yielded an all-too-brief Orphean Warbler in song, while those who had dipped on Rock Partridge on the way up were more than compensated by excellent views of a pair nimbly hopping from rock-to- rock through the sparse scrub before zipping away on whirring wings to the other side of the little valley.

Parking our van about halfway down we began to make our way on foot downhill along the road through sparse forests of downy oak and isolated abandoned farmsteads set in small poljes amidst the startling Karst limestone scenery of pinnacles, cliffs and rockfaces shaped and moulded by millions of years of rain, weather and crustal movements.

We were now well-sheltered from the north-easterly and various butterflies were on the wing including Scarce Swallowtail, Orangetip and Southern Festoon together with our second dwarf butterfly of the week, a Queen-of- Spain Fritillary but not much larger than a Small Copper! Birds were few and far between but we did add a pair of Alpine Choughs. Oddly, here in Dalmatia they descend to the coast. As we dropped down towards our lunch spot, set amongst cliffs and hollows, a newly-arrived Nightingale burst into full song, providing views for some people. On the cliffs above there were cushions of the Adriatic endemic, the Window Bellflower (Campanula

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fenestrellata) but not yet in flower. The loud, ringing calls of Western Rock Nuthatch were heard but they did not reveal themselves to us and as we continued our way down towards the coast what looked like a female Northern Wheatear crossed the road.

Our final stop was a taste of the Paklenica Canyon in the form of a smaller lateral canyon to the south, the Mala Paklenica. By now it was hot and several further butterfly species were added including Green Hairstreak, Mallow Skipper and Little Blue while there were enormous numbers of Egyptian Locusts along the path but there was almost silence on the bird front, with just singing Subalpine Warblers, the chirp of House Martins feeding above the Aleppo Pines and the occasional ringing peal from a distant Western Rock Nuthatch so we called it a day, making it back to the hotel just before 5 p.m.

Day 7 Tuesday 16th April

Zrmanja River nr. Bilišane. Visit to Lake Vrana – Vransko Jezero reedbed after dark This was our last full day in Dalmatia and the weather was sufficiently fine for us to visit the only site on the trip which even Paul had never visited but it proved very interesting indeed. This was the Zrmanja River near Bilišane about 40km from the hotel, a powerful river that rises on the Velebit chain and flows into the Adriatic after a short (69 km) but unruly tumble down to the sea.

Heading off the main road from Obrovac and downhill we passed through scrubland with cows on the road, dropping lower towards the main dam on the river before heading upstream beside amazing-looking watermeadows covered in Summer Snowflake (Lecojum aestivum), that will definitely merit further investigation before arriving at a prosperous looking village on the river and one of the tourist centres for rafting on the river. We were before Easter however and everything was fairly quiet with only business owners readying things for the following weekend.

The river, with a splendid rickety metal bridge, was magnificent, about 25 metres wide, about two metres deep, fast-flowing and smooth, its water perfectly clear. It transpires that the fish we saw, evidently a species of chub, were of an endemic species, the Neretva River Chub (Squalius svallize) and restricted to the central western Balkans. We could hear the Zrmanja falls just downstream but first chose to explore a series of riverside meadows upstream. There were several butterflies to chase including the second Camberwell Beauty of the trip, a Large Tortoiseshell and several Southern Festoons. Green-winged Orchids remained inexplicably rare on the trip (grazed off?) and just one plant was seen. An excellent picnic site presented itself, a riverside bar with tables, umbrellas and sun-loungers but not in use so we shamelessly took advantage of the facilities to the amusement of the (probable) owner who was setting up furniture in time for the weekend.

After lunch we walked along the road bordering the river, adding several interesting birds including migrant Wood Warbler and Willow Warbler but the most interesting thing noted was a harsh, repetitive and buzzy tit-like song that Paul confirmed was a Sombre Tit. Although we got very close and had brief glimpses of the bird in flight, showing a dirty-grey chest, it did not want to leave cover and eventually ceased singing altogether. All very frustrating!

The walk continued along the road beside beautiful riverside meadows, with Barn Swallows, a Nightingale, Cirl Buntings and nice stands of heavily-scented Ivy-leaved Cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium). We found Small Copper

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

and yet another Dalmatian Ringlet on screes beside the road until it was time to return towards the van, encountering a Black-eared Wheatear where we had seen the Sombre Tit. There was just time to walk round to a point just below the waterfall for a look. They certainly were not up to the Skradin Buk falls but quite spectacular nevertheless.

Making our way back from Bilišane, Paul took a quick detour to assess the access to the watermeadows we had passed. In quick succession we passed three different male Black-eared Wheatears along the route, the second, third and fourth of the trip. Perhaps these were newly-arrived and we hadn’t seen them elsewhere because we were too early but Bilišane is evidently a hotspot for this species.

Heading east along the river, we stopped at Kaštel Žegarski which proved less attractive for our purposes but where we parked the van next to the river was a beautiful abandoned watermill complete with its channels, four sets of wooden gears, four wooden funnels, wheels and grinding-stones. Although it had evidently been inactive for some time there was no information on the ownership or any other sign of interest in its slow decay at a beautiful spot beside the river near a rafting centre and hostel.

Our last stop was at Obrovac on our way back to the hotel. It added little to the visit but overall the Zrmanja River had been a fascinating day, a superb addition to the itinerary and well worth developing further.

In the evening a small “coalition of the willing” was formed after dark to attempt to hear some crakes near the lake but the weather was rather cold. What was probably a Barn Owl was heard to scream once in alarm from the vicinity of the Ringing Station we had visited on Day 5 (where we had seen ample evidence of whitewash droppings) but we heard little else of note.

Day 8 Wednesday 17th April

Split, lunch near Trogir and transfer to the airport. We packed our things and said thank you to the staff of the Maškovića Han hotel which had proved such an excellent base for our trip and made our way to Split, just over an hour away along the motorway. Parking in downtown Split, close to the ferry-port and just below the walls of Diocletian’s Roman palace, we had a couple of hours to explore the city’s many archaeological treasures before it was time to head towards the airport.

There was just time for a picnic lunch beside the sea close to the town of Trogir before the very short journey to the airport to catch our flight. All in all and in spite of five days made difficult by low temperatures for the time of year and high winds we all agreed that the new Dalmatian coast holiday itinerary had proved excellent and well worth the trip.

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Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (✓=recorded but not counted; H = heard only; LO = Leader Only) April Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 1 Mute Swan Cygnus olor ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 Garganey Spatula querquedula ✓ ✓ 3 Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata ✓ ✓ 4 Eurasian Wigeon Mareca penelope ✓ 5 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca ✓ 7 Common Pochard Aythya ferina ✓ 8 Rock Partridge Alectoris graeca ✓ ✓ 9 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix H 10 Common Pheasant - I Phasianus colchicus ✓ ✓ 11 Black-throated Diver Gavia arctica ✓ 12 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis H ✓ ✓ 13 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 14 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia ✓ 15 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus ✓ 16 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax ✓ ✓ 17 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 18 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 19 Great Egret Ardea alba ✓ ✓ ✓ 20 Little Egret Egretta garzetta ✓ ✓ ✓ 21 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 22 Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmaeus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 23 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus ✓ ✓ ✓ 24 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus LO 25 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 26 Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus ✓ 27 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus ✓ ✓ 28 Common Buzzard Circus cyaneus ✓ ✓ 29 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus ✓ ✓ 30 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 31 Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus H 32 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus ✓ ✓ 33 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta ✓ 34 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus ✓ 35 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola ✓ 36 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius ✓ 37 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata ✓ 38 Ruff Calidris pugnax ✓ 39 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos ✓ 40 Common Redshank Tringa totanus ✓ 41 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola ✓ 42 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus ✓ 43 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia ✓ 44 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 45 Feral Pigeon Columba livia livia ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 46 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 47 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus ✓

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

April Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 48 Western Barn Owl Tyto alba H 49 Little Owl Athene noctua ✓ 50 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 51 Common Swift Apus apus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 52 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 53 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla H 54 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major ✓ 55 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 56 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo ✓ 57 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius ✓ 58 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica ✓ 59 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus ✓ 60 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 61 Northern Raven Corvus corax ✓ ✓ 62 Sombre Tit Parus lugrubris ✓ 63 Great Tit Parus major ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 64 Woodlark Lullula arborea ✓ ✓ 65 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis ✓ 66 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra ✓ 67 Crested Lark Galerida cristata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 68 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 69 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 70 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti ✓ H H H 71 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix ✓ 72 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus H ✓ 73 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita ✓ ✓ 74 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus ✓ ✓ 75 Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon H 76 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla ✓ ✓ ✓ H ✓ ✓ 77 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca H 78 Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris ✓ 79 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans H ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 80 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala ✓ ✓ 81 Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer H 82 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 83 Common Blackbird Turdus merula ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 84 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus ✓ 85 European Robin Erithacus rubecula ✓ 86 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos H H H ✓ ✓ 87 Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis ✓ 88 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 89 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra ✓ 90 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe ✓ 91 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica ✓ 92 House Sparrow Passer domesticus balearoibericus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 93 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 94 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 95 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava ✓ 96 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava cinereocapilla ✓ 97 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg ✓ ✓ ✓ 98 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea ✓

10 © Naturetrek April 19

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

April Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 99 White Wagtail Motacilla alba ✓ 100 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis ✓ 101 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 102 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 103 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 104 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 105 European Serin Serinus serinus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 106 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 107 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus ✓ H ✓ 108 Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus ✓

Mammals (D = Dead; S = Signs of) 1 Western Hedgehog Erinaceus europaeus D 2 European Mole Talpa europaea S 3 Stone (Beech) Marten Martes foina S 4 Wild Boar Sus scrofa S S 5 Large bat species ✓

Reptiles & Amphibians 1 Green Toad Bufo viridis H H 2 Marsh Frog Rana ridibunda ✓ H 3 European Green Lizard Lacerta viridis LO 4 Dalmatian Wall Lizard Podarcis melisellensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 5 Ophisaurus Pseudopus apodus D 6 Leopard Snake Zamenis situla ✓

Fish (E = Endemic to R. Zrmanja & R. Krka) 1 Zrmanja River Chub (E) Squalius zrmanjae ✓

Butterflies (D = Dwarf Form; L = Larva) 1 Southern Festoon Zerynthia polyxena ✓ ✓ 2 Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 3 Swallowtail Papilio machaon ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 4 Large White Pieris brassicae ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 5 Small White Pieris rapae ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 Green-veined White Pieris napi ✓ ✓ ✓ 7 Orange Tip Anthocharis cardamines ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea ✓D ✓ ✓ ✓ 9 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 10 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra ✓ 11 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi ✓ ✓ 12 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas ✓ 13 Little Blue Cupido minimus ✓ 14 Blue sp. ✓ 15 Peacock Butterfly Inachis io ✓ 16 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloros ✓ 17 Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa ✓ ✓ 18 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta ✓ 19 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui ✓ ✓

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

April Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 20 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia ✓D 21 Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia L 22 Nettle-tree Libythea celtis ✓ ✓ 23 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria aegeria ✓ ✓ 24 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus ✓ 25 Dalmatian Ringlet Proterebia afra dalmata ✓ ✓ ✓ 26 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 27 Large Wall Brown Lasiommata maera ✓

Macro Moths 1 Speckled Yellow Pseudopanthera macularia ✓ 2 Great Peacock Moth Saturnia pyri ✓ ✓ 3 Flame Brocade Trigonophora flammea ✓ 4 Banded Tiger Arctia festiva ✓ 5 Cream-spot Tiger Arctia villica ✓

Other Invertebrates: 1 Common Blue Damselfly Enallagma cyathigerum ✓ 2 Egyptian Grasshopper Anacrida aegyptium ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 3 Large Marsh Grasshopper Stethophyma grossum ✓ 4 Field Cricket Gryllus campestris H 5 a Praying Mantis O = very small mantis sp. ootheca ✓ 6 Fire Bug Pyrrhicoris apterus ✓ 7 Hornet Vespa crabro ✓ 8 Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea ✓ ✓ 9 7-Spot Ladybird Coccinella septempunctata ✓ 10 Rose Chafer Cetonia aurata ✓ 11 Millipede Megaphyllum sp. ✓ ✓ ✓

Plants (* = Endemic or limited distribution; [] = Introduced or escape)

Please Note: Nomenclature contained within this list follows the taxonomic amendments, based on DNA analysis, made by the Royal Botanic gardens Kew and the Missouri Botanic Gardens, and following The Plant List, an internationally accepted list of vascular plant families, published and maintained by the two institutions. Scientific name Common name Location

PTERIDOPHYTES FERNS & ALLIES

Calamophytes Horsetails

Equisetaceae Horsetail Family Equisetum arvense Field Horsetail Farmland at Lake Vrana

Leptosporangiate Ferns True Ferns

Aspleniaceae Spleenwort family Asplenium officinarum Rustyback Fern Pag Island Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Krka NP (waterfalls)

12 © Naturetrek April 19

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

GYMNOSPERMS CONIFERS

Cupressaceae Juniper Family Juniperus communis Juniper Paklenica Juniperus oxycedrus Prickly Juniper Pag Island Juniperus phoenicius Phoenician Juniper Paklenica

Pinaceae Pine Family Picea abies Norway spruce Paklenica Pinus nigra Black Pine Paklenica Pinus halapensis Aleppo Pine Paklenica Pinus pinaster Maritime Pine Pag Island

ANGIOSPERMS FLOWERING PLANTS

Pre-Dicots Primitive Angiosperms

Aristolochiaceae Birthwort Family Aristolochia rotunda Round-leaved Birthwort Zrmanje River

Eudicots True Dicotyledons

Adoxaceae Moschatel Family Sambucus ebulus Danewort or Dwarf Elder Vrana Sambucus nigra Elder Vrana

Anacardiaceae Sumach Family Pistachia terebinthus Turpentine Tree Vrana scrubland Pistachia lentiscus Mastic Tree Vrana scrubland

Apiaceae Carrot Family Tordylium apulum Masterwort Vrana

Apocynaceae Periwinkle Family Vinca minor Lesser Periwinkle Vrana

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix Ivy Vrana

Betulaceae Birch Family Carpinus orientalis Eastern Hornbeam Krka National Park

Boraginaceae Forget-me-not Family Anchusa cretica Cretan Anchusa Throughout Buglossoides (Lithospermum) Purple Gromwell Vrana farmland - Kamenjak purpurocaerulea Echium vulgare Viper's-bugloss Throughout Echium plantagineum Purple Viper's-bugloss By the bridge at Trogir Pulmonaria angustifolia Narrow-leaved Lungwort Paklenica Pulmonaria officinalis Common lungwort Paklenica

Brassicaceae Cabbage Family Alyssum saxatile Golden Alyssum Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Arabis glabra Tower Mustard Krka National Park

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family Campanula fenestrellata Adriatic Bellflower Paklenica Campanula pyramidalis Pyramidal Bellflower Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Cannabaceae Cannabis Family Humulus lupulus Hop Throughout

Capparaceae Caper Family Capparis spinosa Caper Bush Vrana - hotel

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Dipsacus fullonum Teasel Throughout Valeriana tuberosa Tuberous Valerian Drnis grasslands

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Silene vulgaris Bladder Campion Krka National Park Petrorhagia saxifraga Tunic Flower nif = not in flower

Celastraceae Spindle Family Euonymus europaeus Spindle Krka National Park

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Cistus x incanus Pink Cistus Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Helianthemum oelandicum Hoary Rock-rose Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Helianthemum nummularium Rock-rose Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Compositae (Asteraceae) Daisy Family Bellis perennis Daisy Throughout Crepis rubra Pink Hawkweed Throughout Tragopogon porrifolium Leek-leaved Goat's-beard Zrmanje River

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Convolvulus cantabricus Pink Convolvulus Zrmanje River

Cornaceae Dogwood Family Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Paklenica Cornus sanguinea Dogwood Paklenica

Crassulaceae Stonecrop family Sedum ochroleucum European stonecrop Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Cucurbitaceae White Bryony Family Bryonia dioica White Bryony Zrmanje River

Ephedraceae Ephedra fragilis Joint Pine Krka National Park

Ericaceae Heather Family Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree Vrana scrubland

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia characias subsp. characias Large Mediterranean Spurge Throughout Euphorbia cyparissias Cypress Spurge Throughout Euphorbia dulcis Sweet Spurge Vrana scrubland Euphorbia fragifera Strawberry Spurge Vrana scrubland Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge Throughout Broad-leaved Glaucous Euphorbia myrsinites Vrana scrubland Spurge Euphorbia spinosa Spiny Spurge Vrana scrubland

Fagaceae Beech Family Quercus ilex Holm Oak Vrana scrubland Quercus petraea Sessile Oak Along road journey nr. Obrovac Quercus pubescens Downy Oak Vrana scrubland

Fumariaceae Fumitory Family Pseudofumaria alba White Corydalis Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Common Ramping- Fumaria muraria Vrana fumitory Fumaria officinalis Common Fumitory Vrana

Geraniaceae Crane’s-bill Family Geranium molle Dovesfoot Cranesbill Vrana Geranium purpureum Little-Robin Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Globulariaceae Globularia Family Globularia cordifolia Matted Globularia Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Lauraceae Laurus nobilis Bay Tree Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Lamiaceae Deadnettle Family Ajuga chamaepitys Ground Pine Vrana scrubland Ajuga reptans Bugle Vrana farmland - Kamenjak Lamium maculatum Spotted Dead-nettle Throughout Marrubium vulgare White Hoarehound nif = not in flower Salvia argentea Silver Sage Drnis grasslands, nif = not in flower Salvia officinalis Common Sage Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Salvia pratensis Meadow Clary Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Satureja montana Winter Savory Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Thymus sp. a Thyme Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Leguminosae (Fabaceae) Pea Family Anthyllis vulneraria agg. Kidney-vetch Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Argyrolobium zanonii Vrana scrubland Astragalus glycyphyllus Wild Liquorice Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Astragalus spruneri Spruner's Wild Liquorice Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Bituminaria bituminosa Pitch trefoil In gravel along Vrana exit canal. Nif [Cercis siliquastrum] Judas Tree Along road journey nr. Obrovac Chamacytisus hirsutus Hairy Broom Zrmanje River Genista sylvestris ssp. dalmatica Dalmatian Broom Island of Pag Hippocrepis comosa Horseshoe Vetch Island of Pag Hippocrepis emerus (Coronilla emerus) Shrubby Scopion-vetch Island of Pag Lathyrus cicera Red Pea Island of Pag

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Lotus corniculatus Bird's-foot-trefoil Island of Pag Medicago sativa subsp. sativa Lucerne Island of Pag False Acacia/Black [Robinia pseudoacacia] Along road journey nr. Obrovac Locust

Linaceae Flax Family Linum bienne Pale Flax Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Loranthaceae Mistletoe Family Along road journey nr. Obrovac, on Sessile Loranthus europaeus a Mistletoe Oak

Malvaceae Mallow Family Lavatera maritima Tree Mallow Island of Pag Malva sylvestris Common Mallow Vrana

Moraceae Mulberry Family [Broussonetia papyrifera] Paper Mulberry Vrana Ficus carica Fig Vrana

Myrtaceae Myrtle Family Myrtus communis Common Myrtle Vrana scrubland

Oleaceae Olive Family Fraxinus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Ash Krka NP Ligustrum vulgare Wild Privet Vrana scrubland Olea europea Wild Olive Vrana scrubland Phillyrea latifolia Broad-leaved Phillyrea Vrana scrubland

Oxalidaceae Wood-sorrel Family [Oxalis articulata] Pink Oxalis Along roadsides

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Chelidonium majus Greater Celandine Vrana Papaver rhoeas Common Poppy Vrana

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Vrana Veronica austriaca a "spiked" speedwell Veronica chamaedrys Germander Speedwell Vrana

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala nicaeensis Nicean Milkwort Vrana scrubland

Primulaceae Primrose Family Cyclamen hederifolium Ivy-leaved Cyclamen Paklenica Primula veris subsp. Columnae Cowslip Paklenica

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Anemone hortensis broad-leaved anemone Paklenica Clematis flammula Fragrant Virgin's Bower Vrana scrubland Ficaria verna Lesser Celandine Paklenica - Veliko Rujno

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Resedaceae Mignonette Family Reseda lutea Mignonette Throughout Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Paliurus spina-christi Christ's-thorn Vrana scrubland Rhamnus saxatilis Rock Buckthorn Vrana scrubland

Rosaceae Rose Family Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Vrana scrubland Prunus mahaleb St. Lucie’s Cherry Vrana scrubland Prunus spinosa Blackthorn Vrana Rosa canina agg. Dog Rose Vrana Rubus fruticosus Bramble Vrana Sanguisorba minor Salad Burnet Vrana

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Galium aparine Cleavers Vrana Galium cruciata Crosswort Vrana

Salicaceae Willow Family Populus alba White Poplar Lake Vrana Populus nigra Black Poplar Lake Vrana Salix alba White Willow Lake Vrana

Santalaceae Sandalwood Family Osyris alba - Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak Viscum album Common mistletoe Along road journey nr. Zadar

Sapindaceae Maple Family Acer campestre Field Maple Paklenica Acer monspessulanum Montpelier Maple Along road journey nr. Zadar

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Scrophularia canina French or Dog Figwort Obrovac - car park

Simaroubaceae Tree of Heaven family [Ailanthus altissima] Tree of Heaven Along road journey throughout

Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family Tamarix gallica Tamarisk Lake Vrana

Tiliaceae Lime Family Tilia cordata Small-leaved Lime Along road journey throughout

Ulmaceae Elm Family Celtis australis Southern Nettle Tree Krka NP Ulmus glabra Wych Elm Krka NP Ulmus minor Field Elm Throughout

Urticaceae Nettle Family Parietaria officinalis Pellitory-of-the-Wall Krka NP

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Monocots Monocotyledons

Amaryllidaceae Daffodil Family Leucojum aestivum Summer Snowflake Lake Vrana Narcissus poeticus var. radiiflorus Poet's Narcissus Paklenica Narcissus tazzetta Tazzetta Narcissus island of Pag Tulipa sylvestris Wild Tulip Vrana scrubland - Kamenjak

Araceae Arum Family Arum italicum subsp. italicum Italian Lords and Ladies Zemanje River

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family Asparagus acutifolius Spiny Wild Asparagus Throughout Leopoldia (Muscari) comosum Tassel Hyacinth Krka NP Small-flowered Grape Muscari parviflorum Paklenica - Veliko Rujno Hyacinth Ornithogalum comosum Star-of-Bethlehem Throughout Ornithogalum umbellatum Umbellate Star-of-Bethlehem Vrana farmland - Kamenjak Ruscus aculeatus Butcher's-broom Krka NP

Asphodelaceae Asphodel Family Asphodelus fistulosus Hollow Asphodel Throughout, roadssides Asphodeline lutea Yellow Asphodel Krka NP, roadside Asphodelus ramosus Branched Asphodel Pag Island

Cyperaceae Sedge Family Bolboschoenus maritimus Sea Club-rush Pag Island

Dioscoreaceae Black Bryony Family Dioscorea (Tamus) communis Black Bryony Pag Island

Iridaceae Iris Family Iris illyricus Illyrian Iris Krka NP

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Anacamptis morio Green-winged Orchid Vrana farmland - Kamenjak Dactylorhiza pauciflora Few-flowered Orchid Vrana scrubland Ophrys sphegodes subsp. sphegodes Early Spider Orchid Vrana scrubland Orchis quadripunctata Four-spotted Orchid Vrana scrubland

Poaceae Grass Family Arundo donax Giant Reed Pag Island Phragmites australis Common Reed Lake Vrana

Smilacaceae Greenbrier Family Smilax aspera Smilax Vrana scrubland

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