Pilgrim in the Florentine Countryside Routes

Home , Abbadia a Isola, Baccanella, Borgo San Lorenzo, Castelfiorentino, Castellina Scalo, Empoli

Edited by Renato Stopani TUSCANY Pilgrim in the Florentine countryside routes

www.vieromee.it

Pilgrim

€ 14,00 routes in the Florentine countryside Edited by Renato Stopani

TUSCANY in the Florentine countryside Pilgrim routes in the Florentine countryside Edited by Renato Stopani

Texts by Renato Stopani, Alessandra Cavallini, Claudio Fagarazzi Graphic project, pagination, image processing Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva Illustrations Massimo Tosi Photos courtesy of Renato Stopani, Massimo Tosi, Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, Andrea Dini, Apt Arezzo, Apt Siena, Giuditta Marsili and Leonardo Tarchiani

With the contribution of Project partners Tuscan Region Municipality of Florence Province of Florence University of Florence Province of Arezzo Istituto Geografico Militare Province of Siena Archdiocese of Florence Diocese of Siena Diocese of Arezzo Diocese of Fiesole

In collaboration with the Municipalities of: Arezzo Loro Ciuffenna Bagno a Ripoli Montelupo Fiorentino Barberino del Mugello Monteriggioni Barberino Val d’Elsa Montevarchi Borgo San Lorenzo Pelago Campi Bisenzio Pian di Scò Castelfiorentino Poggibonsi Castelfranco di Sopra Pontassieve Castellina in Chianti Radda in Chianti Castelnuovo Berardenga Reggello Certaldo Rignano sull’Arno Colle Val d’Elsa San Casciano Val di Pesa Empoli San Giovanni Valdarno Fiesole San Piero a Sieve Figline Valdarno Scarperia Firenzuola Sesto Fiorentino Greve in Chianti Signa Impruneta Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Incisa Valdarno Terranuova Bracciolini Lastra a Signa Vaglia Laterina

Scientific committee Claudio Leonardi, Antonio Paolucci, Fabrizio Porcinai, Renato Stopani Supervision Antonio Gherdovich Coordination Marcella Antonini General Organization Alessandra Cavallini Scientific coordination Renato Stopani, Claudio Fagarazzi On-site research and survey Giuditta Marsili, Leonardo Tarchiani Operational management Silvia Zonnedda, Simona Pozzoli Press Office Letter@ Comunicazione Integrata Graphic project and image, website and digital media Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva English translation English Workshop - Firenze TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction P. 8 How to Use the Guide >> 10 Useful Information >> 12 Definitions and Directional Signs >> 13

THE HISTORY Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network >> 17 The Ten Main Roads of the Florentine Republic >> 19 Pilgrim Routes in the Florentine Countryside >> 20 1200: Florence, an Important Stop on the Way to Rome >> 22 The Rise of Hospices in the City of Florence >> 23

FLORENCE, THE URBAN TOUR >> 25

THE VIA SANESE Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena >> 41

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina >> 48 Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi >> 54 Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio >> 58 Leg 3, Alternative route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio >> 62 Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti >> 64 6 Leg 4, Alternative route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta >> 68 Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena) >> 74

THE VIA PISANA and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa >> 81

Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa >> 88 Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli >> 94 Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino >> 100 Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo >> 106 Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Oliveto Castle >> 110 Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi >> 112 Legs 4 / 5, Alternative route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi >> 118 Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni >> 122 Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza del Campo (Siena) >> 126 THE VIA BOLOGNESE The Pilgrim Route to Rome in the 13th Century P. 135 Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello) >> 142 Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario >> 150 Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata >> 154 Leg 3, Local Itineraries: Lake Bilancino – Cafaggiolo – Scarperia >> 158 Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola >> 164 Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio >> 170 Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass >> 174 Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata >> 178

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA The Itinerary to Loreto >> 185

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi >> 192 Local Itinerary: Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina >> 198 Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno >> 204 Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi >> 212 Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina >> 218 Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 222

THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI 7 Via Sancti Petri >> 229

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve >> 236 Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana >> 242 Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò >> 246 Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna >> 250 Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina >> 254 Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 258 Introduction

Walking around the Florentine countryside, along the ancient pilgrim roads to Rome is to relive the experience of a “slow” journey, rich with the stories of people and places, art and history, nature and tradition, reflection and spirituality. This is the aim of the project to promote these pilgrim roads to Rome. Six itineraries that leave from Florence and intersect the Via Fran- cigena, the Via dell’Alpe di Serra and other main religious thoroughfares of the past. The Florentine countryside – a term that describes the dioceses of Florence and Fiesole, an area controlled by the city of Flor- ence as far back as the 13th century – was an integral part of the network of pilgrim roads that profoundly marked all of Tuscany during the course of the Middle Ages. The Via Francigena – the quintessential via peregrinalis – did not pass through Florence as it crossed the westernmost part of Tus- cany. Nevertheless, Florence was connected to this thoroughfare through roads that intersected it in the Val d’Elsa or Siena. Thus, some important roads in the Florentine Republic became pilgrim routes in all respects. Later, Florence – given also its growing importance as an economic and political “power” – acquired an increasingly greater role in the flow of pilgrims heading to Rome. Already at the time of the first Jubilees, in fact, the majority of pilgrims from all over Europe who went to Rome passed through Florence. From that time on, the city increasingly attracted wayfarers of the Via Fran- cigena: all the main roads and routes, that radiated from the city, were covered by romei, or pilgrims going to Rome; therefore numerous hospices and other accommodation facilities were built in the city, which are still visible in part today amidst the modern 8 buildings.

After careful historical research that retraced the routes in the region, here are the itineraries, reborn to be offered anew to today’s wayfarers: the Via Sanese which connects Florence and Siena, from where, returning to the Via Francigena, one continued to Rome; the Via Pisana, one followed as far as Empoli, and the Fran- cigena Nova in the lower Val d’Elsa; the Strada dei Sette Ponti (or Road of the Seven Bridges) and the Via Vecchia Aretina, going along opposite sides of the upper Valdarno and both used to link up with the so-called Via dell’Alpe di Serra near Arezzo; the Via Vecchia Bolognese, the Bologna-Florence thoroughfare that began to gain importance in the 13th century as it began to replace the Via Francigena as the preferred route to Rome; an urban itinerary, inside the city of Florence lined with ancient hospices on the road that led from Porta San Gallo to Porta San Pier Gattolino (the current Porta Romana), crossing through the oldest part of the city, then over the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio. All the suburban itineraries radiate out from Florence, starting from the gates of the city’s 14th-century walls. The pilgrim of today can travel again on these ancient roads, following the suggestions and rich historical material in this guide. With its 560 km. of routes based on a system of foot and bike paths, the guide – with abundant historical insights and pilgrimage accounts – opens the door to the discovery of sometimes little known corners in the area of Florence and its surround- ings. In addition to the guide, the project of the pilgrim roads to Rome has also created the web site www.vieromee.it that inte- grates, expands, and updates useful information on the pilgrim routes. Multimedia, an information exchange, and maps can be found on the site, with the possibility of downloading tracks for traditional GPS. In addition, the site may also be visited using GPS-equipped cell phones, thus enabling online consultation of the routes. Like the principal historical itineraries, the ancient pilgrim roads to Rome are also identified by a logo that is meant to accompany the pilgrim along the itineraries: the symbol of a “benedictory hand”, the sign of good fortune once exchanged by wayfarers as they traveled towards the destination of their pilgrimage. The ancient pilgrim roads to Rome – a project sponsored by the Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze in collaboration with the Tus- can Region, the provinces and tourism offices of Arezzo, Flor- ence and Siena, the municipalities of the areas concerned, the University of Florence, the Istituto Geografico Militare, and the Archdiocese of Florence – represent an alternative cultural and tourist offering that responds to an ever-growing demand of in- formed and attentive visitors who practice a form of sustainable tourism that respects the environment.

Have a good trip! How to Use the Guide

After a short historical introduction, an overview of the itineraries is given with specific information on distance, elevation gain, and the overall level of difficulty.

Two maps illustrate each itinerary: one is for walking routes and one for biking routes. Maps are not drawn to scale.

A complete and exhaustive list of the accommodation facilities in each place is available on the www.vieromee.it internet site.

The itineraries are broken into legs; each leg corresponds to the distance that can be covered either on foot or by bicycle in one day, keeping in mind the length and types of terrain.

The technical description for each leg of the walks contains traveling times, a description, and a list of possible difficulties as well as pointing out some places to see and information on public transport. The “navigator”, under the description of each stage, shows the course of the itinerary, indicating the specific waypoint.

The description of each leg illustrates the most important historical and artistic resources from the pilgrims’ point of view. The text is supplemented with boxes, describing in-depth particularly interesting monuments and places, interspersed throughout the text.

For each itinerary, information is provided on: accommodation facilities, events and fairs, and tourist information offices. The information on accommodation facilities was collected in 10 2009 from the APT, the local tourist boards for the provinces of Florence, Siena, and Arezzo.

The references on religious accommodations were provided by the Archdiocese of Florence and the Diocese of Fiesole. It must be added that the parishes listed are willing to offer a spiritual and pastoral hospitality to pilgrims in possession of a pilgrim credential card (normally released by a religious organization). For the three main cities (Florence, Siena, and Arezzo), only hostels and holiday houses were chosen; whereas for all the other legs of the itinerary, other types of accommodation facilities have been listed, whose approximate price does not exceed 50 Euros per person per night. The accommodation facilities indicated for each leg were chosen from among those within an hour’s walk from the stopping point for that stage. LEGEND

WALKING Itinerary

CITY TOUR VIA SANESE VIA PISANA AND FRANCIGENA NOVA VIA BOLOGNESE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Via Francigena Stretch connecting to the Via Francigena

BIKING Itinerary

BUS route

Places with BUS SERVICE (for information and schedules, visit the following sites: www.sita-on-line.it; www.sena.it; www.trainspa.it; www.acv.it; www.etruriamobilita.it; www.amvbus.it)

Places with RAILWAY SERVICE

Beginning and end of an itinerary or a leg

Stops along the route and junctions for alternative itineraries

Centers of historico-artistic interest Religious buildings Pilgrim hostels and accommodation facilities 11 Places of natural interest Castles/towers/ancient villages

VISIT THE SITE www.vieromee.it

Further notes on the itineraries and historico-artistic resources Information on the towns and villages, places of interest and events Images taken along the route and of the countryside Detailed maps and description of the routes Audio-guide and GPS files Updates on accommodation facilities and tourist information Useful information

Retracing the historical route, the itineraries of the pilgrim roads to Rome cross numerous dirt roads and paths. Neverthe- less, the itinerary sometimes follows roads where the presence of motor vehicles may expose hikers or bikers to risks. The rule of the road illustrates the behavior to be followed while traveling on urban and suburban roads intended to guar- antee the safety of pilgrims. Along the paths, particular attention must be paid to the directional signs so as not to lose track of the route indicated. In addition, when crossing through natural areas, it is important to remember the following: do not damage vegetation or disturb animals; avoid making unnecessary noise; do not leave behind trash of any kind; do not light fires; camp only in designated areas; use only the public rights of way when crossing private fenced areas. In many rural areas, fences are used to keep wild animals out of cultivated areas. On private property, close gates once you have passed. For cyclists, bring a small repair kit. Bike tourists must give way to those traveling on foot. Before beginning legs located outside of cities and towns, always be sure to check the weather forecasts.

TRAFFIC CODE, D. LGS. 30/4/92 No. 285

Pedestrians must walk on pavements, footpaths and other areas designated for their use. If these facilities are not available or are obstructed, closed, or inadequate, pedestrians 12 must walk along the side of the road facing oncoming vehicles so as to minimize as much as possible the obstruction of traffic. Outside of towns, pedestrians must walk against traffic on two-way roads and on the right side of the road in the same direction as vehicular traffic on one-way thoroughfares. From half an hour after sunset until a half- hour before sunrise, pedestrians must walk in single file when traveling outside cities and towns on roadways without public lighting. Pedestrians crossing the roadway must use pedestrian crossings, underpasses, and over- passes. Where these do not exist, or are more than 100 meters from the crossing point, pedestrians may only cross perpendicular to the road, and try to avoid situations that may endanger themselves or others. Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing intersections on the diagonal; they must use the crosswalks, where they exist, to traverse squares, even if they are more than 100 meters away. Pedestrians are prohibited from stopping or lingering on the roadway, except in cases of necessity; they are likewise prohibited from stopping in groups on sidewalks, shoulders, or crosswalks, where they may obstruct the normal passage of other pedestrians. Where no crosswalk is available, pedestrians must give precedence to drivers. Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing the road before buses, trolley buses, and trams that are at a bus stop. The use of skateboards, roller skates/blades or other similar forms of transportation is prohibited on the roadway. Games, workouts, and sporting events are not authorized. The use of skateboards, roller skates/blades or other similar forms of transportation is prohibited in pedestrian-only areas as they may create situations dangerous to others. Pedestrians are also advised to carry a reflective vest to be worn at night on roadways outside inhabited areas where no public lighting is available. Definitions and directional signs

Travel time is the amount of time needed by an average hiker to walk the distance, not considering possible stops along the way.

Total elevation gain is the sum of all the climbs of a leg or an itinerary.

The degree of difficulty, based on the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) ratings for Liguria, Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta, uses the following categories: T = for day-tourists, E = hikers of all levels, EE = for experienced hikers; EEA = for experienced hikers, with equipment.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY FOR THE ITINERARIES

T = for day-tourists - Itineraries of rather short duration on clearly marked lanes, mule- tracks or easy paths that are well-marked and do not present problems of orientation. They require a certain acquaintance with mountain environments and an adequate physical conditioning.

E = hikers of all levels - Itineraries on paths or tracks, usually marked, across various types of terrain (meadows, taluses, or scree). The walks can be short stretches on flat or slightly uneven ground with leftover snow, where there is a slight risk of injury from falling. The routes may sometimes cross open country that, however, is clearly and adequately marked. Steep hillsides may be encountered; exposed sections will have either barriers or cables available for protection. There may sometimes be unexposed passages over rock, or short, easy stretches equipped with safeguards (steps, walkways or cables) that do not require the use of specific equipment (e.g., slings, snap-hooks, etc.) A good sense of direction is required together with a certain amount of experience and knowledge of mountainous terrain, as well as suitable training for hiking, footwear, and equipment. This type of route constitutes the majority of the hiking trails in the Italian mountains.

EE = for experienced hikers - These itineraries are generally marked but require the abil- 13 ity to hike on specific types of terrain. Paths or tracks over impassable and treacherous terrain (steep, possibly slippery slopes of grass or scree and talus). Varied terrain (scree, small, gently sloping snowfields, open slopes without landmarks, etc.). Rocky stretches with minor technical obstacles (safeguarded trails, via ferratas of lesser difficulty). They require: general experience in and familiarity with a mountain environment; a sure step and a head for heights; adequate equipment, gear, and physical preparation. In addition, on the safeguarded routes, it is necessary to know how to use personal safety equipment (snap-hooks, belaying devices, slings, and short ropes).

EEA = for experienced hikers, with gear. The directional signs contain the logo of the pilgrim roads to Rome and comply with the rule of the road, Tuscan Regional Hik- ing (RET) regulations, and those used on CAI trails.

In addition to the signs along the itinerary, in the cities and towns and along the legs of the hike, along the Traffic Code roads of the route the pilgrim will find:

arrows in cities and townsVia Romea

Via Romea

arrowVia on ViainterurbanRomea Romea streets and roads

Via Romea

and along paths and roads not governed by the rule of the road:

CAI directional signs

14 VR

simple CAI trail markers

733 VIA ROMEA

RET arrows ROMEA TUSCANIA h 0.45

Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30 Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30 211 Meta Intemedia 0. 40 211 Meta Intemedia 0. 40 Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10 Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10

Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30 Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30 Meta Intemedia 0. 40 211 Meta Intemedia 0. 40 211 Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10 Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10 Pilgrims along the route

15 Along one of the stone-paved routes

16 THE HISTORY

Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network

In Canto XXIII of Inferno, responding to the two Gaudenti brothers who have asked Dante where he is from, Dante says, “…l’ fui nato e cresciuto sovra ‘l bel fiume d’Arno alla gran villa” (…Born was I, and grew up, In the great town on the fair river of Arno”). The expression used by the poet, gran villa, great 17 town, is indeed quite appropriate for describing the city of his birth: at the beginning of the 14th century, Florence was one of the great metropolises of the West, besides being one of the most important international economic “centers”, with few equals in terms of size and number of inhabitants.

During the 13th century, Florentines had considerably developed a far-reaching commerce, from which a new and more substantial source of wealth was derived: the loan of money. The large accumulations of capital produced were the basis for considerable urban growth as well as the great architectural achievements of that period. Furthermore the Florentines were fully aware of the importance of their city and the economic power it had at- tained. For example, it is significant that in a plaque, still in place, that recalls a minor event such as the 1243 reconstruction of the Parish Church of Santi Simone e Giuda, in the popular quarter formed around the “Parlagio”, the city was defined as the main one in the West: ”…de florentina (civitate) pre qualibet urbe latina” (1). 18

Above: Map of the main road network of the Republic of Florence / Below: A view of Florence Florentine Republic: quote below(2)andare thetenmainroads androutes ofthe a listofthemainroads that ledoff from Florence whichwe most likelydatestobefore theendof13 1322-1325 and politicalsubordination to theformer. Anextractfrom the district, anindexofthelatter’s increasingly greater economic city, basedondirect connectionswiththevariousareas inthe tryside ledtoatraffic systemwith roads radiatingout from the SanctumDonatumdePoci quamiturinVallem Arni(3) del Podestà rei”, asstatedinthe sameChapterCI,BookV of theStatuto Romanam Curiam” , thelatteraroadque utilissimaest “publice bonsi, and then continued “versus civitatem Senarumet versus Middle Ages.Thiswas,forexample, theroute thatledto Poggi- artery inItalywithtraffic from alloverthecontinentduring Francigena,themain continued untiltheymetupwith theVia that of Pisa,ortheothers,bothnorth andsouthoftheArno, ennines towards Bolognaoroftheroad thatledtotheport of theroad thatafterSanPiero aSieveheadedacross theAp- the cityinasupra-regional road network.Suchwasthecase Besides, mostofthetenmainroads androutes passedthrough mercantie deferenturutplurimumincivitatemFlorentie”(4). veniat strataspublicas,etmaximeillamperquamvictualia et which says,“…etcumpulcrumutilitatireipublicebenecon - well inChapterCI,BookVofthe1325StatutodelPodestà and efficient, itsimportancetothecity’s economyisdescribed that was,ofcourse,Florence. Theroad systemwasfunctional birth toaroad networkthat radiated outfrom thefocal point ing aseriesoflinkstothemaintownsincountryside,gave As canbedetermined, the polarizing power ofthecity, byfavor SanctiFrediani PetriGattolino manumetincipitaBurgoSanctiPetriMaioris niametversusGallianumSanctamAgatham ultraponticellumdeRicorboli Again inthe13 Republic theFlorentine TenThe MainRoads of

Strata perquamituradSanctumPetrumdeSieve,versusBono- Strata perquamituradSanctumCassianum,PodiumBoniççiet Via etstrataquesummitaportaseuBurgoSanctiNiccholaiper Strata perquamiturPratumetincipitaponteseuBurgoSanctiPauli Strata perquamiturPisasquesummituraportaseuBurgo Strata deGiogholisquesummituraportaseuBurgoSancti Strata perquamituradPontemdeSieveetvaditversusDeco- Strata deSextoperquamiturPratum Strata deChiantiquesummitinitiumapilastroubiestcrux Statuto delCapitanoPopolo,from achapterthat (5). th century, theattractionofFlorence onitscoun- th century, contains - 19 www.vieromee.it Pilgrims’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside 20 www.vieromee.it Pilgrims’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside from Germanic areas (8). best way, toreach City, theEternal atleastforpilgrims coming Rome oftheMiddle Ages–wasdefinedasthe meliorvia,orthe nales Stadenses–considered themostcomprehensive guideto was anotherpopularroute toRomeforpilgrimsthatinthe An- important stopontheso-called Viadell’AlpediSerra;thislatter namesofthesetworoads –arrivedinArezzo,the modern an the weredarno alsotiedtothepilgrimages toRome.Infact,both The routes passingalongtheoppositesidesofupperVal- there Francigenainthemid-Valdelsa joinedtheVia (7). ultimate destination:Rome–insteadheadedtoPoggibonsi,and route –more properly calledastradaromana,becauseofits and the Valdelsa, reaching Francigena in Siena. The other the Via ridge ofthehills acting asawatershedbetweentheVal diPesa so-called ad SanctumCassianumthatsplitintotworoutes. Thefirst,the Francigena waschieflythestrataperquamitur totheVia Arno For thosewantingtogoRome,theconnectionsouthof FrancigenainthelowerValdelsa.who chosetojointheVia quently, thestrataperquamiturPisas wasusedevenbythose becauseofthesiltingupportLuni.Conse- in Leghorn the 12 However, one couldalsoreach Compostela by sea,and,after ing thestrataperquamiturPratum(6). Francigena inLucca,whichtheyreached from Florence following the15thcentury, tellusthattwoofthemjoinedtheVia Florentine pilgrimswhotraveled toSantiagodeComposteladur example, theitinerarymemoirsfrom different yearsleftbythree Francigena, thebackboneofItalianpilgrimageroutes. For roads androutes inthecountrysidethatconnectedtoVia byusingthosemain tiago deCompostela),begantheirjourney the three peregrinationesmaiores (toRome,JerusalemandSan- But there were alsomanyFlorentines who,undertakingoneof Apennines. routes Francigenatocross otherthanthatof the Via overthe early 13 those –evermore numerous, asweshallsee,beginninginthe As regards theformer, thecityhadbecomeatransitpointfor European wayfarers. were also used by many Florentines thus enlarging the flow of passing through thecityontheirwaytoRome;sameroads far-reaching developments,thatthepilgrimsarrivedinFlorence It wasprecisely ontheseandotherroads whose routes ledto Countryside Routes intheFlorentine Pilgrim Via Vecchia AretinaandtheStradadeiSettePonti – touse th th century, mostembarkations occurred inPisaandlater, century–whomadethepilgrimagetoRomefollowing Via Sanese,woundbeyondSanCascianooverthe - Moreover, beginning in the late Middle Ages, the Via Vecchia Aretina would also become the first part of the itinerary used by Florentines to reach another very popular pilgrimage destination, one that would see significant growth during the Counter- Reformation period: the Holy House of Loreto (9). It was no coincidence that the great Spedale del Bigallo hospice complex was built along this route to serve the pilgrims.

As can be seen, even if only marginally affected by the route of the Via Francigena, which unfolded in the south-western limits of the countryside, along the Val d’Elsa, this area that in the Middle Ages constituted the Florentine countryside was crossed by routes that were an integral part of the “system” of pilgrimage routes. The reason being that Florence, like all large cities in Western Christendom, from at least the 12th century onward contributed abundantly to supplying the flood of pilgrims heading towards the main loca sacra of Christianity (and the abundance of documentary evidence would suffice to attest it).

Furthermore, along the roads in the countryside around Florence traveled by these pious wayfarers departing from the city were many minor pilgrimage destinations also much frequented by Florentines. We refer here to the sanctuaries where miraculous sacred images of the Madonna were worshiped, places such as Impruneta, the Madonna del Sasso in Lobaco or the parish church in Cercina, to name but a few. Or those places whose holiness was derived from the existence of the tomb or relics of a local saint, like the sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino in Panzano, the oratory of Beato Gherardo in Villamagna, the Church of the Beata Giulia in Signa, and the sanctuary of Santa Verdiana in Castelfiorentino.

Fresco by Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Welcoming the Pilgrims. Oratory of Buonomini di San Martino 1200: Florence, an important stop on the way to Rome

Florence’s association with pilgrimages became even more pro- nounced in the 13th century when, as mentioned above, the city became an obligatory stop for the majority of those who were making the pilgrimage to Rome. Over the course of that century, in fact, it might be said that the Via Francigena was “abducted” by the city on the Arno. Indeed, the preferred route to Rome was no longer the ancient road that had developed in the late Middle Ages – crossing the Apennines at the Monte Bardone Pass, then heading towards Lucca, until finally reaching Siena through the Val d’Elsa – but rather on the road that connected Bologna directly to Florence through the Apennine passes of the Mugello (first, the Osteria Bruciata Pass, later the Giogo Pass near Scarperia), and then continued towards Siena using roads that had previously connected the city of Florence with the Via Francigena at Poggibonsi or Siena (10).

The new route to Rome would also be the main traffic conduit between the Po River valley and peninsular Italy, along which moved massive flows of people, goods and money, attracted by Florence’s economic and financial power, which reached its zenith right in the 13th century as evidenced by the mintage in 1252 of the gold coin (the florin), which joined the silver one, minted as early as 1235.

View of Florence from the Villa Bardini garden

22 During the13 regia romanawithinthecitywalls. Porta Romana)continuingwhathadbythenbecomethestrada route from PortaSanGallotoPietro Gattolino(now A particularconcentrationofhospiceswasfoundalongthecity gates andthestretches of roads justoutsideofthesegates(11). throughout thecity, butespeciallyintheareas closesttothecity well asinworksofcharity, thepilgrimhospiceswere distributed of Florentine spirituality, expressed in purely religious forms as Reconstruction oftheSanGiovanniEvangelistaHospiceinFlorence hospices between the 13 pilgrimage road systemisseeninthefoundationofmanypilgrim Evidence ofthenewandimportantrole playedbythecityin Florence Hospices inthe City of Pilgrim Rise of The and Poggibonsionthetworoutes toRome(12). Pietramala ontheroad toBologna, andSanCasciano,Castellina the mainstoppingpoints:Tagliaferro, Scarperia,Firenzuola, and were alsobuilt,themost important ofwhichwere locatedat and hostelsthusdottedtheroutes andmanypilgrimhospices and charitable facilities as a result of the increased traffic. Inns Romana) experiencedaconsequentbuild-upofaccommodation Francigena (theViaSaneseandthe cient links to theVia the road thatledthrough theMugellotoBolognaandan- stood outwere thecountryside’s mainroads androutes. Both Florence thenusedprimarily bypilgrimstoRome,theonesthat the Florentine countryside. Of thestreets thatradiatedoutfrom tem –atleastasregarded theroute toRome–alsoaffected th century, any changes inthepilgrimageroad sys- th and 14 th centuries. A typical example 23 www.vieromee.it Pilgrims’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside Notes

(1) The plaque, in fact, is found on the facade of the Church of San Simone, in the small square of the same name that opens near Via Torta, the city street whose curvilinear progression traces the perimeter of the ancient amphithe- ater of Florentia, whose remains in the Middle Ages were called Parlagio.

(2) Cf. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto del Capitano del Popolo degli anni 1322-1325, vol.I, Libro IV, Capitolo VIII, p.175, Firenze 1921.

(3) It is the road that connected Florence and Arezzo and corresponds to the current Via Vecchia Aretina.

(4) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto del Podestà dell’anno 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, p.428, Firenze 1921.

(5) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto del Podestà del 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, ibidem, Firenze 1921.

(6) Cfr. R. Stopani, Il “camino” italiano per Santiago de Compostela. Le fonti itinerarie di età medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 2001, pp. 51-72 and pp.73-86. In both the memoirs, the pilgrimage, beyond Lucca, continued following the route of the Via Francigena crossing the Alps through the Moncenisio Pass. The pilgrim who wrote the third 15th-century memoir (pp. 90-105) from Flo- rence instead reached Bologna; he continued along the Via Emilia as far as Borgo San Donnino and there joined the Via Francigena, also crossing the Alps through the Moncenisio Pass.

(7) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena in Toscana. Storia di una strada medievale, Salimbeni, Firenze, pp. 61-64.

(8) Cfr. Annales Stadenses auctore Alberto, in Monumenta Germaniae Histo- rica”, Scriptores, vol. XVI, pp. 335-341, Hannoverae 1858.

(9) The numerous itinerary memoirs of the pilgrimage to Loreto refer primarily to the 16th-17th centuries. Let us recall for its completeness the Libro della Compagnia della Santissima Trinità, del 1577, (National Central Library of 24 Florence, Ms. Magl. Cl. XIII, cod.78), and Il pellegrinaggio alla Santa Casa di Loreto in A Roma per il Giubileo del 1575 con la Confraternita della Santis- sima Trinità, Le Lettere, Firenze 2000, pp. 91-112, published by R. Stopani.

(10) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena all’epoca dei primi Giubilei. La strada cambia itinerario e diviene via regia romana in La via Francigena. Storia di una strada medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 1998, pp.138-149.

(11) Cfr. R. Stopani (edited by), Firenze e i primi Giubilei. Un momento di storia fiorentina della solidarietà, Centro Studi Romei, Firenze 1999, pp. 22-29.

(12) Cfr. AA.VV., Percorsi e valichi dell’Appennino fra storia e leggenda. Futa, Osteria Bruciata, Giogo, Firenze 1985, pp. 85-108 e R. Stopani, Le vie del Giubileo. Guida, storia, percorsi, Erremme, Roma 1996, pp. 41-102. 1st Itinerary

FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR

25 At the beginning of the 14th century, in his Cronica (Libro XI, Capitolo XCIV) Giovanni Villani - with legitimate pride in his city - wrote that in Florence there were “thirty hospices with more than one thousand beds to accommodate the poor and the infirm”. In fact, the city had a system of charitable institutions that, along- side the modest facilities offering a few beds to foreigners passing through and to the needy, envisaged the large spedali, or hospices, considered an expression and symbol of the city since they had been erected with the participation of all the population “ad utilitatem animarum et decorum civitatis”. From the 13th century on, because of the massive flows of people and goods caused by the network of business relations that radiated from Florence, the bulk of traffic heading into the Italian peninsula from the north converged in the new trans-Apennine passes of the Mug- ello. Then there was the pilgrim traffic to Rome, as the city on the Arno had become a requisite stopping point for all those who were going ad limina Beati Petri. Hence the need for adequate accommodation and charitable facilities to meet the needs of all those (pilgrims or travelers) who passed through the city. 1st Itinerary FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR

Porta San Gallo 1 2 3 4

7 8 9 10

26 13

15 14 16

Porta San Pietro Gattolino

Portal architrave of San Giovanni Battista della Calza HOSPICES ALONG THE URBAN TOUR

1 2 3 4

Former hospice Church of San Giovannino Convent of Sant’Agata Mantellate Conservatory of Bonifazio dei Cavalieri

5 6 7 8

Former hospice Hospice Church of Gesù Pellegrino Oratory of San Tommaso of San Matteo of Santa Maria Nuova

9 10 11 12

Compagnia dei Former hospice of Santo Oratory Former hospice of Bigallo Buonomini di San Martino Sepolcro al Ponte Vecchio of San Sebastiano dei Bini

13 14 15 16

Former hospice of Former hospice Former hospice of Spirito Church of San Giovanni San Niccolò, or della Buca of San Pier Novello Santo, or Piccione Battista alla Calza 27

WALKING ITINERARY

Starting point: Porta San Gallo (Florence) (coming from Via Bolognese) End point: Porta San Pietro Gattolino (Florence) (entering Via Romana or Via Sanese) Level of difficulty: easy Elevation gain: none Distance: 5 km Travel time: 1 h 30’ 28 www.vieromee.it 1st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR Via SanGallo.Intheforeground,churchofhospiceMantellate of thecity, namelythe“villages”outside12 Florence, tendingtobelocatedinthenewlydevelopedareas Porta Romana). at thePonteVecchio, toPortaSanPietro Gattolino (nowadays, Porta SanGallointheoldestpartofcity, across theArno ticular concentration of hospices along the route that ran from Florence toBolognaandRome, respectively. There wasapar continuation insidethecitywallsofroads thatconnected artery across thecitywas themostimportant–natural gates thatmarkedthestartofmainroads. Thenorth-south The hospices insidethecitywere foundinthoseareas nearthe vigorous, andtowayfarers”. [always open]tothegreatandlowly, theinfirmand Signoria couldrightlystatethatthecitykept“thedoorofmercy ing expression intheconstruction ofcharitablefacilities.The populace andwhichfavored the“spiritualityofdeeds”,find- was linkedtoasortof“civicreligiosity” foundinalllevelsofthe along theroads radiating intothecountryside.Theirgrowth early decadesofthe14 Erected mainlyoverthecourseof13 mercy alwaysThe opendoorof role in the 13 th -century development of the urban structure of th century, thehospicesplayedakey th centuryorinthe th -century walls -

IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS

Accommodation in the city The main Florentine hospital structures were in oldest part of the city and, beginning in the 15th century, they became increasingly specialized as they assumed different functions: the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, founded in 1286, became the largest hospital in the city; the hospice of San Matteo, established in the 14th century by the moneychanger Lemmo Balducci; the hospice of the Innocenti, established as a shelter for abandoned children; and the hospice of Bonifazio, named after its founder, Messer Bonifazio Lupi.

Besides the north-south route, many hospices were in the areas of the city along roads leading to the other gates. From Porta al Prato and the nearby Porta Faenza (the latter’s remains being incorporated in one of the bastions of the Fortezza da Basso), heavily traveled roads branched off towards Pistoia, Prato and other towns in the Florentine valley. Near these gates, famous hospitals were established whose buildings – renovated and enlarged several times over the years – can still be seen: the hospice of San Giovanni di Dio on Borgo Ognissanti, the hospice of the Scala on Via della Scala, the hospice of the Convalescenti in Piazza Santa Maria Novella, the Templar hospice of San Jacopo in Campo Corbolini on Via Faenza, and the hospice of Sant’An- tonio (the current “Cenacolo di Fuligno”).

Near Porta San Frediano, the beginning of the strata per quam itur Pisas, heavily trafficked because of the goods going to Pisa, the natural outlet to the sea of Florence, was the structure known as the hospice of Buonamico while going towards Porta alla Croce, at the head of the strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve was another hospice run by the Templars, situated prope 29 ecclesiam Sanctae Crucis: the church of Santa Maria della Cro- ce al Tempio, which still overlooks Via dei Malcontenti.

Hospice of the Innocenti The urban tour being recommended is the same as the one pilgrims once followed upon arriving in Florence from Via Bo- lognese. They entered the city through Porta San Gallo and proceeded towards Porta San Pietro Gattolino, where the road joined either Via Romana or Via Sanese, both of which led to Siena and then on to Rome. The greatest number of pilgrim hospices was concentrated along this route – often modest structures with only a few beds as well as important charitable institutions of the city.

In front of Porta San Gallo, just outside the walls, was the pilgrim hospice that had given its name to the gate and the street that began there. For more than three centuries, it was one of the largest hospices in Florence, founded in 1218 by Guidalot- to Voltodellorco to serve the poor, the needy and pilgrims. The eight-building complex however was completely demolished during the 16th century for defensive reasons at the time of the siege of Florence.

Entering the city, along Via San Gallo, the pilgrims immediately found, in the following order, the hospices of Santa Caterina de’ Talani, San Gherardo and Sant’Onofrio. Two convents later rose on the sites of these hospices. The first was that of the Mantellate 2 , which became a boarding school in the 18th century; its church, from the 17th century, houses paintings by Stradano and Jacopo Vignali; the other was the Convent of Sant’Agata 1 (now part of the Military Hospital), its late 16th- century church contains a beautiful painting by Alessandro Allori depicting the Wedding in Cana and two frescoes by Giovanni Bizzelli (the Martyrdom and Burial of Saint Agatha).

30 The hospice of San Matteo on Piazza San Marco, nowadays the Academy of Fine Arts Monaco. ThehospiceofGesùPellegrino andSt.John,attributedtoLorenzoand aCrucifixwithMary works ofacertainvalue,includingNativitybyBicci di Lorenzo Fine Arts)facingthesquare. This cumented inthe early12 where one of theoldesthospicesinFlorence oncestood.Firstdo- dei Ginori–wearriveinPiazzaSanLorenzoname changingtoVia San Gallo and continuing on – with the street’s to Via Returning loggia ofthe degliArazzieri,weenterPiazzaSanMarco,onto Via withthe From from SanGallo thehospiceofGesùPellegrino,turning Via spice ofBonifazio The pilgrimsthenfoundthemselvesinfront ofthemajesticho- church popularlyknownas SanGiovanninodeiCavalieri no. Theformerwasfoundonthespotwhere todaystandsthe such as was connectedtothehospiceofBonifazio,followedbyothers A littlefurtheronwasthehospiceofBroccardi, which function untilitssuppression. nically ill,andfinallyamentalhospice,continuingtoservethis (1736), itbecameaconservatory, thenahospiceforthechro- history, thehospice ofBonifaziohadmanydifferent uses:first me theMonasteryofCeppo).Overcourseitslong viously mentionedChurch ofSant’Agata (itsubsequentlybeca- the SanDionisiohospicewhichwassituatedinfront ofthepre- later, SanGallo,like itincorporatedotherhospicesfoundonVia nes, thehospicesoriginallyhad34beds.Considerablyenlarged Lupi, themarchese ofSoragna,valiantcaptaintheFlorenti- face thestreet today. Builtbetween1377and1387byBonifazio Lorenzo, androse near oneofthegatesin“old townwalls”. the church thatpresumably usedthebuildingsofhospice. and haversack;itissetinawalloneofthebuildingsbeside the hospice depicts the figure of apilgrim complete with staff all thosewhowanttoenter”).Thecarved-stonecoat-of-arms of TRARE” PIEVANO ARLOTTOFECEFARE PERSÉECHICIVUOLEEN- there isaninscriptionhehimself wrote: “QUESTA SEPOLTURA IL ne ofArlotto,aparishpriestfamousforhishumor, onwhich of Malta, established there. The 16 Giovanni diGerusalemme,whichwere affiliated withtheOrder at theendof17 it wasclosedinthe16 church –restored inthe16 the hospiceofCompagniaDeiPretoni, ofwhichonlythe were predominantly used toreceive thepoor andthesick. the maincharitableinstitutions inFlorence withsixtybeds that and waslaterrunbytheMoney Changers’Guild.Itwasoneof by therichmerchant GuglielmoBalducci,knownasLemmo, San GiovanniBattista Decollato and (“Father Arlottohadthistombmadeforhimselfand hospice th ofSanMatteo 3 century. Insidethe church isthetombsto- th , whoseloggias–redone in1787–still centurywhenthehospitalnunsofSan th century, itwasneartheBasilicadiSan th century–remains, wasabolished hospice th -century church contains 6

(today, theAcademyof was founded in 1385 wasfoundedin1385 5 , alsoknownas Gesù Pellegri- 4 : 31 www.vieromee.it 1st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR 32 www.vieromee.it 1st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR also maintainedtheoriginal16 was alsoresponsible forthe premises ofthehospicethathas who features still intact. It was builton a designbySantidi Tito, the 15 that could accommodate more than 600 patients at the end of has maintained its majestic, late medieval cruciform structure tions totheoriginalbuildingsovercenturies,hospital for the sick. Despite the continuous overlapping of new addi- political figure, itwas established specifically to treat and care ce. Founded in 1285 by the merchant Folco Portinari, a leading still working,calledarch-hospital,forbothitssizeandimportan- hospice ofSantaMariaNuova Bufalini,untilwereach deiPucciandthen,Via dei Gori,Via the Taking a detour from Piazza San Lorenzo, we continue on Via Thomas Aquinas families. Adjoiningthehospicewasachurch dedicatedtoSt. templanti, whose members were the scions of nobleFlorentine taken in and fed for several days by the Compagnia dei Con- to house pilgrims to Rome who had crossed the Alps, that were Santi Cini,aDominicanfriarandclosefriendofSaintPhilipNeri, left to reach della Pergola. It was founded by gidio turning Via grini Oltramontani,onegotthere Sant’E- continuing along Via Not farfrom SantaMariaNuova wasthehospiceofPelle- by BernardoBuontalenti. Bigallo fact thatsince1425itwasalso theseatofCompagniadel today looks,afterthesick.The loggiatakesitsnamefrom the ancient andgloriousFlorentine institutionthatlooked,and still tury, wastheseatofArchconfraternity of Misericordia, the at thebaseof building,whichisdominated byafloorwith marble arches, filledwithsculptures motifs,are andornamental Via Vecchia Aretina,from which itsnamewasderived.Two large city andthecountryside,including thehospiceofBigallo,on 14 deiCalzaioliisthe ofVia On PiazzadelDuomoatthecorner the largerSantaMariadelFiore. Chapter oftheCathedralandlaterdemolishedtomakeway for sta hospital institutions:theofSanGiovanniEvangeli - of SantaReparata,there oncerose anotherofthecity’s ancient between thebaptisteryandfaçadeoforiginalCathedral riuolo, continuinguntilwearriveinPiazzadelDuomo.Here, dell’O- FolcoPortinari andthenrightintoVia leftintoVia turn Standing again before the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, we layout, includingalarge,classical-stylefireplace inpietraserena. to theearly17 ter altered. Thefaçadewith theelegantcolonnadedatesback Sant’Egidio (SanGilio),builtonLorenzo diBicci’s designandla- th -century (reconstruction onpage21).Itwasfoundedin1040bythe th century. Inaddition, there stillistheancientchurch of 9 , which oversaw various charitable institutes in the Loggia delBigallo,which,untilthelate16 th century;itwasbuiltbyGiulioParigionadesign 8 , itsoriginal,lateRenaissancearchitectural th -century structuralandroom 7 , Florence’s mainhospital, th cen- elegant trefoil double-lancet windows. There is a small museum inside with mostly 14th-15th century works, including a detached fresco from 1342, that displays the oldest view of Florence.

We now take Via dei Calzaioli, turning immediately left into Via delle Oche and then right into Via Santa Elisabetta where we continue into Via dei Cerchi. About halfway along the street, we turn to the left where we find the Piazzetta of San Martino del Vescovo, on which stands, in addition to the House of Dante and the Torre della Castagna, the Oratory of the Compagnia dei Buonomini di San Martino 10 , a small hospice linked to an ancient Florentine confraternity. On the walls of the small single- nave oratory is a fresco cycle painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio in the 15th century that depicts the Works of Mercy. In one of the scenes two pilgrims holding staffs are received; two bonomini, good men, give money to a servant to prepare a bed for them – seen in the background – and something to eat and drink.

Returning to Via dei Cerchi, we go to the end of the street and arrive in Piazza della Signoria. We enter the Uffizi loggia, off of which we take Via Lambertesca until it meets Via Por Santa Maria, the street that leads us to the Ponte Vecchio. After crossing the bridge, in the platea in capite pontis we find the two hospices of San Miniato and of Santo Sepolcro 11 . Both ancient hospices date back to the 11th century. The latter, that belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, still retains its 13th-century façade, with a Jerusalem cross carved on a marble plaque with the old street number.

We then take Borgo San Jacopo, Via Toscanella, and then Sdruc- ciolo dei Pitti – two narrow streets sided by tall buildings characteristic of the old Florence – until we come to Piazza Pitti. At 33

18th -century drawing of the loggia of the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova the end of the square, we find the beginning of Via Romana that leads to the gate of the same name, the Porta Romana. In the Middle Ages, the street was dotted with hospices. The first one encountered was the hospice of Sant’Antonio, built in 1316, then the 13th-century hospice of San Sebastiano de’ Bini 12 connected to the prestigious Roman institution of Santo Spiri- to in Sassia, as still indicated by the double cross carved into a 14th-century architrave in the wall of the façade of the 15th-16th- century oratory that rose where the hospice had been.

Just beyond was the hospice of San Niccolò dei Fantoni 13 known as the Buca from the name of the tavern near which it had been built. A stone coat of arms with the insignia of the Compagnia del Bigallo, from which the hospice depended, is found in the wall of the building later erected in its place. It also houses a mid-15th-century detached fresco depicting the Ma- donna with Child between Two Angels.

Continuing on, almost in front of the Annalena gate, the entrance to the Boboli gardens, was the small hospice of San Pier Novello 14 , founded by Piero di Cione Ridolfi in about the mid- 14th century. It was popularly called the hospice of the Chioccio- la, only a dilapidated architrave remains of it, carved with the inscription: “HOSPITIUM NOBILIS RODULPH… FAMILIAE”.

Then there was the hospice of San Lorenzo and, after the church of San Pietro Gattolino, the hospice of Madonna San- ta Maria e dello Spirito Santo 15 , belonging to the Laudesi, commonly called Il Piccione or dove, because of the symbol of the Holy Spirit carved on the door lintel, with the inscription “HOSPITALE S.MARIE DE LAUDIBUS”.

View of the Ponte Vecchio friend ofPetrarch. Pietro inGattolino),founded bySennuccioDelBenewhowasa meo adSanctumPetrumCattuarium(thatlaterbecameSan because itwasdestroyed – wasafinalhospice:SanBartolo- Somewhere nearPortaRomana –theexactlocationuncertain Franciabigio. the conventrefectory isa 1514 paintingoftheLastSupperby attributed toLorenzo MonacoandapanelbyEmpoli,whilein ce structures, hasa14 or stocking.Thechurch, whichpresumably reused thehospi- long stocking-likehoodgaverisetotheirnicknameofcalza, Jerusalem; it later became a convent of Jesuati monks whose modation structures (e.g.,hostels, inns)fortravelersandpilgrims. closer tothecitywasalsodottedwithhospicesandotheraccom civitatem SenarumetversusRomanamCuriam,whosestretch Beyond thegatewasbeginningofstrataquaiturversus At theendofstreet wasthehospice tista dellaCalza Detail ofthePalazzoVecchio withtheUffizi inthebackground 16 , originally of theKnightsSt.John th -century portallintel;insideisacrucifix

of SanGiovanniBat- - 35 www.vieromee.it 1st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR ACCOMMODATION FACILITIES IN FLORENCE

Archi Rossi Gallo D’oro Via Faenza, 94r Via Cavour, 104 50123 Florence 50129 Florence Tel: 055 290804 - Fax: 055 2302121 Tel: 055 5522964 - Fax: 055 5534823 [email protected] [email protected] www.hostelarchirossi.com www.ostellogallodoro.com

Casa del SS. Rosario Hostel A Fi 9 Via G. Monaco, 24 Via Ricasoli, 9 50144 Florence 50122 Florence Tel: 055 321171 - Fax: 055 3217337 Tel: 055 2398665 - Fax: 055 2645447 [email protected] Casa Don Secchiaroli www.academyhostels.com Via Borghini, 23/25 50133 Florence Istituto Alfa Nuova Tel: 055 578100 - Fax: 055 589339 Via E. Poggi, 6 [email protected] 50129 Florence www.casadonsecchiaroli.it Tel: 055 472883 - 055 476280 Fax: 055 488437 Casa Madonna del Rosario Via Capo di Mondo, 44 Istituto del Sacro Cuore 50136 Florence Viale Michelangelo, 27 Tel: 055 679621 - Fax: 055 677133 50125 Florence [email protected] Tel: 055 6811872 - Fax: 055 6811388 www.madonnadelrosario.it [email protected] www.sacrocuore.com Casa per ferie San Marco Via Venezia, 18b Istituto Salesiano dell’Immacolata 50121 Florence - Tel: 055 579603 Via del Ghirlandaio, 40 www.italianroom.it 50121 Florence Tel: 055 62300 Casa Regina del Santo Rosario Fax: 055 6230282 Via G. Giusti, 35 - 50124 Florence www.salesianiFlorence.it Tel: 055 2477636 - Fax: 055 2269149 Istituto San Francesco di Sales Casa Santo Nome di Gesù Viale L. Ariosto, 13 Piazza del Carmine, 21 50124 Florence 36 50124 Florence Tel: 055 224190 Tel: 055 213856 - Fax: 055 281835 [email protected] Istituto San Giovanni Battista www.fmmFlorence.it Via di Ripoli, 82 50126 Florence Conservatorio S. Maria degli Angeli Tel: 055 6802394 - Fax: 055 6815228 Via della Colonna, 34 [email protected] 50121 Florence Tel: 055 2478051 - Fax: 055 2480985 Istituto San Gregorio [email protected] Via Francesco Bonaini, 9a www.conservatorioangeli.it 50134 Florence Tel: 055 480955 C.S.D. Istituto Gould Fax: 055 475832 Via dei Serragli, 49 50124 Florence Istituto Santa Chiara Tel: 055 212576 - Fax: 055 280274 Via Borgognissanti, 56 [email protected] 50123 Florence www.istitutogould.it Tel: 055 215915

Deltachi Istituto Suore Oblate Spirito Santo Via Silvio Spaventa, 4 Via Nazionale, 8 50129 Florence 50123 Florence Tel: 055 5001392 - Fax: 055 5001392 Tel: 055 2398202 [email protected] - www.deltachi.it Fax: 055 2398129 Istituto Suore Rave di S. Elisabetta Viale Michelangelo, 46 Pensionato Pio X 50125 Florence Via dei Serragli, 106 Tel: 055 6811884 - Fax: 055 6811884 50123 Florence [email protected] Tel: 055 225044 Fax: 055 225044 Madonna Divina Provvidenza Via S. Biagio a Petriolo, 33 Pensionato S. Filippo Neri 50145 Florence Via dell’ Anguillara, 25 Tel: 055 317263 - Fax: 055 317263 50122 Florence [email protected] Tel: 055 215701 Fax: 055 215701 Monaco 34 [email protected] Via Guido Monaco, 34 www.oratoriosanfilippo.it 50144 Florence Tel: 055321018 Plus Ostello Florence [email protected] Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 15/17 www.ciaohostel.com 50129 Florence Tel: 055 4628934 New Ostel Fax: 055 4628934 Via I. Peri, 3 [email protected] 50144 Florence www.plusflorence.com Tel e Fax: 0555272220 [email protected] Pr. I. M.S.C. Alfa Nuova www.newostel.com Via E. Poggi, 6 50129 Florence Ostello 7 Santi Tel: 055 472883 Viale dei Mille, 11 Fax: 055 488437 50131 Florence Tel: 055 5048452 Suore Oblate dell’Assunzione Fax: 055 5057085 Via Borgo Pinti, 15 [email protected] 50121 Florence www.7santi.com Tel: 0552480582 Fax: 0552346291 Ostello Centrale Via Faenza, 46/r Villa Agape 50123 Florence Via Torre del Gallo, 8/10 37 Tel: 055 268481 50125 Florence Fax: 055 268481 Tel: 055 220044 Fax: 055 2337012 Ostello Il Kantiere Via del Cavallaccio, 1/Q Villa I Cancelli 50142 Florence Via Incontri, 21 Tel: 055 7331270 50124 Florence [email protected] Tel: 055 4226001 www.kantiereFlorence.it Fax: 055 4226037 [email protected] Ostello Santa Monaca Via Santa Monaca, 6 Villa Maria SS. Assunta 50124 Florence Via delle Forbici, 38 Tel: 055 268338 - 055 2396704 50133 Florence Fax: 055 280185 Tel: 055 577690 [email protected] Fax: 055 570156 www.ostello.it Youth Residence Florence 2000 Ostello Villa Camerata Viale R. Sanzio, 16 Viale A. Righi, 2/4 50124 Florence 50137 Florence Tel: 055 2335558 Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300 Fax: 055 2306392 [email protected] [email protected] www.ostelloFlorence.it www.cheap-hotel-florence.com INFORMATION

TOURIST INFORMATION Bike rentals

APT Florence Alinari Tourist Information Office Bicycles and scooters for hire Via Cavour, 1r Via Guelfa, 85r Tel: 055290832 - 055290833 Tel: 055 280500 [email protected] www.alinarirental.com Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m. Florence by bike Sundays and holidays 8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m. Bicycles and scooters for hire www.Florenceturismo.it Via S.Zanobi, 120/122r Tel. e Fax: 055 488992 Other APT offices in Florence www.florencebybike.it Via Manzoni 16 Tel: 055 23320 Rent Way Aeroporto “A. Vespucci” P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r Tel: 055 315874 50122 - Florence Tel: 055 2398890 Municipality of Florence Cell: 333 9619820 Tourist Information Office www.rentway.it Piazza Stazione [email protected] Tel: 055 212245 turismo3@comune.fi.it

Municipality of Florence Tourist Information Office Borgo S. Croce 29r Tel: 055 2340444 - 055 2264524 [email protected]

Events and fairs

• Bacco Artigiano (26 September) • Benedizione del vino (September) • Capodanno toscano (29 March) 38 • Festival of Magi (6 January) • Festa della Rificolona (7 September) • Feast of San Lorenzo (10 August) • Feast of Santa Reparata (7 - 8 October) • Feast of Sant’Anna (26 July) • La Fiorita (23 May) • Ricordo di Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici (18 February) • Scoppio del Carro (12 April) • Torneo del Calcio Storico (24 June) View ofPalazzoVecchio fromViadeiCerchi 39 www.vieromee.it 1st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR The City of Florence Welcoming the Poor and the Needy, “Libro del Biadaiolo”

40 2nd Itinerary

THE VIA SANESE 41 Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena

For connections to Siena (and then to Rome) among the main roads in their own countryside, Florentines preferred to use the road known as Sanctus Donatus in Pocis, or the Via Sanese as its ultimate destination was Siena. It was the shortest route to Siena, where it joined the Via Francigena and, not coincidentally, was also used by pilgrims on their way to Rome after passing through Florence, as seen from the pilgrims’ memoirs. Significantly, however, it is along this road that one finds the oldest documented bridge in Florence: the Ponte della Sambuca also called Roma- gliano (or Romagnano), mentioned as early as the 12th century, which demonstrates the importance and age of the road. 2nd Itinerary THE VIA SANESE Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena

Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Sant’Andrea in Percussina

Monteﬁridolﬁ

San Donato in Poggio

Castellina in Chianti

Uopini

Piazza Duomo (Siena)

THE ITINERARY

Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence) End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena) Elevation gain:

600

500

400

300

200

100

00 WALKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 83.3 Distance (alternative routes): km 23.4 Level of technical difficulty: T-E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze Distance: km 15.6 Page 48 Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi Waypoints: San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle Distance: km 14 Page 54 Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca Distance: km 15.5 Page 58 Leg 3, Alternative Route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio Waypoints: Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa Distance: km 8.9 Page 62 Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti Waypoints: Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto Distance: km 17.2 Page 64 Leg 4, Alternative Route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta Waypoints: Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosio, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli, Distance: km 14.5 Page 68 Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena) Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km) Distance: km 21 Page 74 43 Uopini - Piazza Duomo (Siena) Distance: km 7.2

The route alternates stretches on secondary asphalt roads and dirt roads. The path is well marked and presents no orientation difficulties. From the village of San Donato in Poggio, the route is basically a hike on forest roads and trails. The two alternative routes are also hikes. The legs can be easily walked. There are no particular problems with finding water or other refreshments, except on the two alternative routes. The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent climbs. The scenery is exceptionally beautiful with historical and cultural elements typical of the rural Tuscan economy. Two alternative routes are suggested. The first is more panoramic, the second goes to Sant’Eufrosino, a local pilgrimage destination. Note: The route joins the Via Francigena in Siena. There are many gates along the farm roads that keep the wildlife away from the crops. Do not leave the gates open, once having passed through. To cover the most urbanized and heavily trafficked areas, we recommend going the final 7.2-km stretch between Uopini and Siena by bus. 2nd Itinerary THE VIA SANESE Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena

Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Monteﬁridolﬁ

Castellina in Chianti

Piazza Duomo (Siena)

View of the countryside south of Florence BIKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 90,5 Distance (alternative routes): km 23,4 Level of technical difficulty: T-C Level of physical difficulty: Medium List of itinerary legs: Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Montefiridolfi Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze, Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle Distance: km 29,6 Page 48 Leg 2: Montefiridolfi – Castellina in Chianti Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca, San Donato in Poggio, Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto Distance: km 32,7 Page 58 Leg 3: Castellina in Chianti – Siena Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km), Uopini Distance: km 28,2 Page 74 Leg 2 / 3, Alternative Route: (A) Badia a Passignano – Panzano (B) Panzano – Pietrafitta Waypoints: (A) Rignana, Fornace, Pitracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino (B) Lucarelli Distance: km 23,4 Page 62

45 Montefiridolfi Panzano Badia a Passignano Pietrafitta Pietracupa Piazza Duomo (Siena)

6.6 km 8.9 km 10.0 km 4.5 km 33.2 km Time: 30’ Time: 1h00’ Time: 1h15’ Time: 45’ Time: 2h40’

The main itinerary, in the stretch between S.Donato in Poggio and Querciagrossa, and the “Leg 2 and 3” alternative route are demanding and suitable for bicyclists of medium technical skill. The “Leg 2 and 3” route may have an alternative stop in Panzano. The itinerary unwinds on secondary asphalt and on dirt roads, it is well- marked and does not present any problems of orientation. There are no particular problems with finding water or other refreshments, unlike along the two alternative routes. The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent changes in elevation and steep climbs. The scenery is exceptionally beautiful due to historico-cultural elements typical of Tuscan agriculture. Note: The course requires good physical conditioning because of the many climbs. Almost 45% of the route can be covered using racing bikes while the remaining 55% has gravel and beaten earth road beds and are suitable for mountain or city- bikes with sturdy tires. The final stretch from Fonterutoli to Casalino is characterized by the presence of hawthorn with the consequent high risk of punctures. 46 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE Along theViaSaneseafterFonterutoli the crossing pointsintheMugello insteadoftheCisaPass,mak Apennine crossing forBologna, pilgrimstoRomebeganfavor Until at least the end of the 12 ing Florence astoppingpoint ontheroad toRome. located alongtheway. the largertowns(Tavarnelle, Barberino,Poggibonsi,andStaggia) the intense traffic that characterizes some sections, especially in less suitedtoourideaofcreatingroute, analternative becauseof In fact, the former Romana road, now State Road 2, is ernization. Florence inthe13 of pilgrimageroads Francigenawas“abducted”by whenthe Via Both routes playedanincreasingly importantrole inthesystem longer route, towards Siena. the Val d’ElsaatPoggibonsi,andthencontinuedwithaslightly Francigena,inthemiddleof came tobeknown.ItjoinedtheVia the Florentine countryside,thatoftheStradaRegiaRomana,asit ley floorofthePesa),followed route ofanothermain road in The road in the first partof the itinerary (from Florence to theval Sanese Road andRomana Road the ancientroad thathas survived 18 recommend walkingitineraries whichsometimesfollowexactly guide, wehavefavored the “ViaSanese”becauseitallowsusto FrancigenainTuscany. sectionoftheVia with thesouthern Inthis Sanese RoadandtheRomanaRoad),servedtoconnectFlorence th centuryas,withthedevelopmentofatrans- th century, the two routes (the th - and19 th -century mod - - - The Ancient Way

In the Middle Ages, the common course of the two roads started at Porta San Pietro Gattolino (now Porta Romana), climbing the hill of San Gaggio where once stood the Hospice of San Gi- uliano a Colombaia, founded in 1363 near the ancient “Fonte di Colombaia”. The route then headed towards Galluzzo where there was another hospice, Santa Maria di Malavolta, following though a different route than that of state road 2, (today the Via del Podestà), on which the hospice of Santa Lucia a Mas- sapagana once stood.

The road then proceeded towards Tavarnuzze whose name car- ries on the memory of the inn for travelers once found there. Soon after, it crossed the Greve River at the foot of Castle of Montebuoni to climb again to San Casciano. Then it descended into the Val di Pesa where in Ponte Nuovo it split into two routes: the Sanese road, that crossed the Pesa at Sambuca, reached the watershed line between the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa, and arrived in Siena from a path along the ridge, and the Via Romana that went up the hills that divide the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa and it then ran along the bottom of the Valdelsa and of its tributary Staggia, and also reached Siena after having joined the Via Francigena at Poggibonsi.

View of San Donato in Poggio

47 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 1: PORTA SAN MINIATO (FLORENCE) SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA

Starting point of LEG 1 Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Poggio Imperiale

La Fonte

Galluzzo Riccio

Botta Pozzolatico

Tavarnuzze Colleramole Riboia

Pescina Meccoli

Bagnolo 48 Impruneta LEG 1 to Sant’Andrea Monteﬁridolﬁ in Percussina see page 54

Farmhouse in the Val di Pesa WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 440 Distance: km 15.6 Travel time: 5h05’

This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads. There are quite challenging climbs. There are no problems or possible difficulties in identifying the route. The leg has innumerable panoramic vantage points. Note: This leg requires being in good physical condition. There are many fountains and refreshments available in the towns and villages along the route. At the end of this leg in S. Andrea in Percussina, you can proceed to S. Casciano V. Pesa (3.5 km), which offers a greater number of accommodation facilities.

Transport: Florence Sant’Andrea in Percussina To be seen: Church of San Felice a Ema Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico Basilica di S. Maria dell’Impruneta (5 km from Tavarnuzze) The Machiavelli House – Sant’Andrea in Percussina – San Casciano Val di Pesa

LEGS

The Miraculous Image of Impruneta Beyond the legends that flourished around its recovery, it is certain that the attraction of the miraculous image of the Virgin, kept in the parish church of Impruneta, quickly spread from the countryside to the city, instilling in Florentines a special devotion to the sacred image. Such that, as Repetti wrote (in Dizionario geografico fisico storico della Toscana 1832-43, vol. II, p. 574), “... oftentimes the Florentine government in cases of war or mis- fortunes like the plague, a long drought or persistent rains, had recourse to the miraculous image of Our Lady of Impruneta, whose venerable tabernacle, with a grand escort, a great mul- titude, and extreme devotion was brought in a procession to Florence”. The importance of the ancient parish church also grew, and it was renovated and expanded several times beginning in the 15th century, until it assumed its current aspect as a large sanctuary- basilica, complete with a large colonnade in front so as to receive the ever increasing number of pilgrims who flocked there. As the fame of this sacred image grew, so did the wealth of the Impruneta parish church, that was enriched with buildings, rooms and works of art. (Many of the latter are now kept in the Museum of the Treasure of Santa Maria of Impruneta). Confirming the constant flow of pilgrims who went to the basilica, was the establishment of a preceptory of Jerusalem (the so-called Commenda) whose task was to give hospitality to those who came on pilgrimage to Impruneta, sometimes from places quite far away.

The Madonna of Impruneta 50 was stillusedinthe19 road thatslopessharply(henceitsname).Moreover, thisroad turesque dell’ErtaCanina,anold,stone-paved footpathupVia stretch del Monte alleCroci, ofVia wecontinuealongthepic- renovated inthe18 tiful Gherardo Silvani,atthebeginning ofwhichwefindthebeau- the landscapetypicalofhillsFlorence –wecometoVia Imperiale inacountrysidedottedwithvillasandfarmhouses– SuorMariaCeleste.Walkingand Via Poggio behindtheVilla Torre GuglielmoRighini delPiandeiGiullari,Via delGallo,Via by highwallswithtracesofantiquegraffiti;Via della wepassby distance, ourroute continues alongcharacteristicstreets sided Galileoandtraveledasmall Viale intothemodern Having turned the horsesberested. distance traveledfrom Florence (aquarter-mile) andurgingthat voke divine protection for travelers in addition to indicating the a streetneartheendofoursteepclimb,which in- tabernacle evidenced bythesimplelinesofverseengravedatbase ning sectionofthe14 dini andreachable from Belvedere theVia -flankedbya remai- itinerary from Bar theSanMiniatocitygate-nearVilla To avoidtheusualproblems oftraffic, wesuggeststartingour its miraculousimageoftheMadonna. on whichstandstheSanctuary-BasilicaofSantaMaria,with Florentine valleypathsthatclimbtheslopesofImprunetahill especially inFlorence. Infact,wefindinPozzolaticooneofthe place of pilgrimage yet one of considerable local importance, the suggested itinerary includes our first detour to visit a minor racter, which isespeciallyevidentinthemassivebelltower. Here, Stephen, haspartiallyretained itsoriginalRomanesquecha- small villageofPozzolatico,whosechurch, dedicated toSaint VecchiaThen, takingtheVia diPozzolatico,wearriveinthe Romanesque Church of San FeliceaEma,completely

Time: 1h30’ Porta San Miniato (Florence) 4.8 km

Church of San Felice a Ema Time: 45’ 2.1 km th century. th -century walls.So,aftercoveringashort th

Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico centurytogoSienaandRome,as Time: 40’ 2.4 km

Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose Time: 50’ 2.8 km

Poggio di Montebuoni Time: 1h20’ 3.5 km

Sant’Andrea in Percussina - 51 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1 52 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1 ing beenremoved from theoffice ofchancellortheRepublic. retiro ofNiccolòMachiavelliwhenheretired tothevillaafterhav of gin theroad thatgoestoSan Casciano,passingthrough thevillage road to Rome and to Siena since, past Ponte degli Scopeti, we be From here onwards, ourroute retraces agoodpartofthemedieval te degliScopeti,anancientcrossing pointovertheGreve River. downhill onasteepfootpathuntilwereach stateroad 2,atPon- which has been documented as early as 1095. Then, we walk buoni), runbytheVallombrosans from theMontescalariAbbey, and where there wasalsoahospice(theHospitaledeMonte- Montebuoni Hill,where theBuondelmontecastle oncestood lowing thepathofmedievalroad thatwentupthesteep than followtheGreve River, likethestateroad, wesuggestfol- the villageofTavarnuzze where weintersectstateroad 2.Rather shaped bythe work ofman.Thenwebegintodescend towards the landscape of the hills surrounding Florence which have been ing amuchlesstrafficked sidestreet. Here, wecanstilladmire wards theRomanesquechurch ofSanLorenzo alle Rose,us- toPozzolatico to resumeReturning ourjourney, weproceed to- The hillsoftheVal diPesa Sant’Andrea inPercussina , famousforhavingbeenthebuen

Time: 1h30’ Porta San Miniato (Florence) 4.8 km

Church of San Felice a Ema Time: 45’ 2.1 km

Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico Time: 40’ 2.4 km

Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose Time: 50’ 2.8 km

Poggio di Montebuoni Time: 1h20’ 3.5 km

Sant’Andrea in Percussina - - IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS

Step by step This first part of the route is thus described in the Book of Memories of the Florentine Company of the Holy Sacrament that went on pilgrimage to Rome in the Holy Year of 1575: “…we went towards the Gate (San Pietro Gattolini) always a great number as far as the Gate and San Gaggio inside and along the streets. As we were still arriving near the gate we met a company near the gate that accompanied us lovingly as far as San Gaggio and then we went on our Holy Pilgrim- age cheerfully with God’s name and we came to the Church of Santo Andrea above mentioned, at midday we were invited with greatest charity to refresh ourselves and sit at a table with 4 priests always speaking of spiritual things and then we left, singing ever more psalms”.

Farm road near San Casciano Val di Pesa

53 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 2: SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA MONTEFIRIDOLFI

Sant’Andrea Continuing of LEG 1 in Percussina see page 48

Falciani

Montecapri

Le Querce

La Bruscola

Molinaccio

San Casciano

Crespeccioli

Canciulle

Bibbione Castle

Calzaiolo Mocale

Loggetta 54 Bargino

Monteﬁridolﬁ

The Parish Church of Santa Cecilia a Decimo WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 210 Distance: km 14 Travel time: 3h55’

This leg is mainly on secondary asphalt roads, with a stretch of dirt road between San Casciano and Calzaiolo. There are steep climbs. There are no problems with orientation or unclear identification of the route. Many panoramic points over the Chianti hills are found along this leg. Note: The length of this leg is limited with little elevation gain and does not require specific physical training. There is a tough, approximately 1-km climb after Calzaiolo. Water is available in the villages and towns.

Transport: Sant’Andrea in Percussina Montefiridolfi To be seen: Museo d’Arte Sacra – San Casciano Val di Pesa Montefiridolfi Castle

LEGS

The Inns of the Machiavelli Family An important place-name, Spedaletto derives its name from the existence of a hospice known to have been located here beginning in the 14th century, whose patrons were the Machiavelli family. In addition to this charitable structure for poor travelers and pilgrims, the Machiavelli family ran a series of inns on the stretch of road between Florence and San Casciano. In fact, the 1427 Florentine Cadastral records show that a number of properties belonged to various branches of the family: one inn just outside the city walls at Porta San Pietro Gattolino; another in Sant’Andrea in Percussina (standing beside the 13th-century manor house of the Florentine Secretary, called, not surprisingly, the Albergaccio), and a third was located in castro Sancti Chasciani.

The Albergaccio, the Machiavelli House, Sant’Andrea in Percussina

56 Villa LaLoggiaandMontefiridolfi. Villa lefthereturn togoupBibbioneCastle,thencontinueon lowing thePesaRivercourseuntilwereach MontediSassi.We We continueforjust over akilometeralongthe state road fol- still preserved, togetherwiththe church annexedtoit. in 1139,whosestructures – despitenumerous renovations – are zaiolo, together with his wife Carina had founded a hospice here its nametothefactthatGiovanni,sonofPietro, knownasCal- River valleyfloor, whichis reached atCalzaiolo.Thetownowes keeping to its left, our itinerary continues down into the Pesa Along aseparateroute that runsparalleltostateroad 2and zo, aHospitaledomineMateandonekeptbytheDominicans. ries, including:theHospiceofSantaCristina,thatSanLoren- to manyhospicesbetweenthelate13 a stoppingpoint,thetownwashomenotonlytoinnsbutalso streets thatintersect,forminganX.Becauseofitsimportanceas flected intheoldestpartoftown,thatliesalongtwomain Pesa andtheVal re diGreve, theoriginsofSanCascianoare Built at an intersection with a cross road connecting the Val di lines thesidesofroad. no, wecomeacross Spedaletto,atypicalelongatedvillagethat Proceeding pastSant’Andrea inPercussina towards SanCascia- Bibbione Castle

Sant’Andrea in Percussina Time: 10’ 0.7 km

Spedaletto Time: 45’ 2.9 km

San Casciano Time: 1h 4 km

Calzaiolo th andtheearly14 Time: 1h 2.6 km

Bibbione Castle Time: 1h 3.8 km th Montefiridolfi centu- - 57 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 2 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 3: MONTEFIRIDOLFI SAN DONATO IN POGGIO

Startin point of LEG 2 Monteﬁridolﬁ

Vignano

Acquaviva

Monte Lodoli

Fabbrio

Badia a Passignano

Sambuca

Il Poggiolino San Giustino Casetto

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

Fermignano San Donato 58 LEG 2 to in Poggio Castellina in Chianti see page 64

The Sambuca Bridge (Mappe di Popoli e Strade dei Capitani di Parte Guelfa, 1585) WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 260 Distance: km 15.5 Travel time: 4h45’

The leg covers both asphalt side roads and dirt roads. No problems with orientation or possible unclear identification of the route, even when on dirt roads. The climbs are not particularly demanding. The itinerary includes panoramic views of the Chianti hills.

Note: This leg covers a limited distance with reasonable elevation gain. There is a 3-km stretch of dirt road between Santa Maria a Macerata and Badia a Passignano. From Badia a Passignano, you can take an alternative route through Rignana and Fornace that leads to S. Donato in Poggio. Instead, care must be taken on the main itinerary because of the motor traffic on a 4-km stretch along the Via Chiantigiana between Sambuca and Castellina in Chianti. Water is available in the villages and towns.

Transport: Monteridolfi San Donato in Poggio To be seen: Abbey of Passignano Bridge of Romagliano in Sambuca Val di Pesa Village of San Donato in Poggio Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato S. Andrea in Percussina Montefiridolfi S. Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti S. Andrea in Percussina Montefiridolfi S. Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti Siena 60 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 3 Parish ChurchofSanDonatoinPoggio the ancientBridgeofRamagliano,documentedsincemid-12 eval areas. Headinginsteadtowards thevalleyfloor, where themedi in Poggioonahillyroute thatpassesmainlythrough wooded From the Abbey ofPassignano,wecangodirectly toSan Donato the Vallombrosan order. tion asitholdsthebodyofSaintJohnGualbert,founder reach theAbbeyofPassignano,anotherpilgrimagedestina After Monteridolfi,wepassSantaMariaMaceratauntil stantially intactitsmedievalurbanlayout. San Lazzaro, documentedsince theendof13 been neartheBridgeofRamagliano.There wasthenaHospiceof by themonksfrom theAbbey ofPassignano,whichseemstohave regarding tothelatter, there hadbeenahospicerunsince1123 hostels aswellcharitableinstitutionstobefound.Inparticular, century. Asusually happenedatrivercrossings, there were innsand just outsidetheancientwallsofcastlethathasretained sub Poggio, passingbefore thehomonymous parishchurch, located to theancientViaSanese,andsoonbringsusSanDonatoin the Val diPesa.Theroute onwhichwewalkis adirect successor steep slopetoreach theridge ofhillsseparatingtheValdelsa and developed alongtheroad where itrose, westarttoclimbavery Passing through alltheoldtown ofSambuca,whoseurbanlayout Hospice ofSanNicola,commonlyknownasilChiesino.

Montefiridolfi Via Sanesepassed,wereach Sambuca, avillagebuiltnear Time: 2h 6.6 km

Abbey of Passignano Time: 1h10’ 4.3 km

Sambuca Time:1h35’ th 4.6 km century, and the

San Donato in Poggio th - - -

LAND OF SAINTS

The Relics of Saint John Gualbert in Passignano Probably founded by the Lombards, the Benedictine Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo a Passignano was offered around the mid-11th century by the lords who had its patronage to Saint John Gualbert who had founded some years earlier in Vallombrosa a new monastic congregation actively engaged in reforming the Church. The saint restored the monastery and established a small community there, which was led by his disciple Leto. And it was in Passignano itself that in 1073 the saint ended his earthly days; therefore the monastery, custodian of the remains of the founder of the Vallom- brosan congregation, came to occupy a prestigious position within the order itself, and became a pilgrimage destination, also benefit- ing from its proximity to the Via Sanese, one of the pilgrims’ routes to Rome. Thanks to numerous donations obtained as a result of the monks’ fervor, the Abbey of Passignano came to possess many landed properties. The monastery grew to the current majestic complex with buildings from various eras (including a hospice for pilgrims and travelers), encircled within 14th-century walls. The Romanesque-style church was enlarged and modernized in the late Renaissance: it contains the precious reliquary-bust of Saint John Gualbert, the work of 15th-century Florentine goldsmiths; it is made of embossed and chiseled silver with a base consisting of 20 small cuspated aedicules, decorated with scenes in fine enamel that illustrate the saint’s miracles and stories from his life.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS 61 San Donato in Poggio and the Parish Church The church has its original architectural features, and is indeed one of the most artistically perfect Romanesque buildings in the Florentine countryside because of the elegant facing of its walls with courses of white limestone, recalling the marmoreal bril- liance of the main Romanesque churches in Florence. San Donato was one of the main stopping points along the Via Sanese: in “Sainct Donast est le commencement de la Seigneu- rie des Florentins”, wrote an anonymous Frenchman on his way to Rome in 1480, one of the many pilgrims who stopped there. Inside the castle, there is evidence that a hospice dedicated to Saint Luke once existed, as well as a Hospitale Communis, which housed the poor of Christ and the hospitalers. 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

Leg 3, Alternative Route: BADIA A PASSIGNANO SAN DONATO IN POGGIO

Starting point of LEG 3 Alternative Route Monteﬁridolﬁ

Vignano

Acquaviva

Monte Lodoli

Fabbrio

Badia a Passignano

Sambuca

Il Poggiolino San Giustino Casetto Rignana MAIN ITINERARY ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Fornace Fermignano

LEG 2/3, Alternative route to San Donato Pieve a Panzano in Poggio Pietracupa see page 68

View of the Abbey of Passignano WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 330 Distance: km 8,9 Travel time: 3h

The alternative route for leg 3 starts in Badia a Passignano after traveling 6.6 km from Montefiridolfi. From the Abbey, the alternative route joins the road for Poggio al Vento, which we follow for about 2 km. In this stretch, we find a steep climb that goes from Borro di Rimaggio to the fork for Casa Poggio al Vento. After passing the crossroads, we continue on the left for about 800 meters to the small bridge over the Fosso Casasilia. We continue along the dirt road that follows the crest of the hills as far as San- ta Maria a Rignana, and then, past Rignana, we come to another crossroads after about 1 km. We turn right and descend to the Pesa River as far as the little bridge in Fornace. This is the beginning of a demanding, uphill climb, more than 2 km long, that brings us to Pietracupa. We then pass near the ruins of the village of Fornace until reaching the edge of a wood. Keeping to the left on the uphill dirt road, we pass through the villages of Casalino and Podere Ripoli. Here we find a dirt road on the right that leads us to Montecchio farm and the entrance to La Papessa holiday farm. From there, we reach an asphalt road that we follow for a few hundred metres as far as the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pietracupa. The route has many panoramic viewpoints over the Val di Pesa. This leg is entirely on forest roads with no orientation problems. The climbs are of medium difficulty.

63 Montefiridolfi Abbey of Passignano San Donato in Poggio

6,6 km 8,9 km Time: 2h Time: 3h 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 4: SAN DONATO IN POGGIO CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI

Continuing of LEG 2 San Donato see page 58 in Poggio Pietracupa

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Il Leccio

San Silvestro

Caselline Santa Maria Grignano

La Valle

San Damè Protine Pietraﬁtta Faggeto Gualdolino

Sassocupo Cavallari

Monastero di Sotto

Sommavilla

Cellole 64 Castellina in Chianti

Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto. Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 615 Distance: km 17.2 Travel time: 5h55’

After the initial 2.5 km along an asphalt road, the route continues on dirt roads and trails. There are many forks along these forest roads, so special attention must be paid to the signs. The route then unwinds almost exclusively in forests where oak species prevail. There are steep climbs, of which the most difficult is definitely the one that goes from Cerchiaio to Pietrafitta. Note: This leg requires good physical training. Water is available only in the villages and towns.

Transport: San Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti To be seen: Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose Village and fortress of Castellina in Chianti Archeological Museum of the Sienese Chianti – Castellina in Chianti

LEGS

66 Parte Guelfa. (inns, hostels). Michael andoffered variousformsofcommercial hospitality way, CastellinahadaHospitalepauperumdedicatedtoSaint Castellina inChianti 19 tures still remain in addition to the parish church, renovated in the far as intersects theChiantistateroad. We continueonadirtroad as proceed towards Pietrafittaonasteeplyslopingdirt road that practically intact.We continue totheCerchiaia millandthen manesque church with an apse whose original characteristics are farmhouses. To thesideoflatterisasmallsingle-naveRo- into theVal diPesa,passingbytheSanSilvestro and Protine road behindandtakethe local road totheleftthatgoesdown Just beyondtheHospiceofSanGiorgio,weleaveprovincial umented asearlythe12 ginning attheendof16 pilgrimage destinationbutofconsiderablelocalimportancebe zano, istheOratoryofMadonnaPietracupa,alesser d’Elsa. Justoutsidethecastle,atforkwithroad toPan 76 thatoffers sweepingviewsoverboththeVal diPesaandVal cient From San Donato in Poggio, our itinerary, that retraces the an road: itistheancientHospiceofSanGiorgioall’Eroso , doc church witharectangular hallbutnoapsethatoverlooksthe Shortly after, inSanGiorgioalleRose,there isaRomanesque Martino andthentoCastellinaafteronlyfivehundred meters. holiday farm.From here, wecontinueacross dirtroads uptoSan the formerresidence of theVallombrosan monks,nowusedasa cross awoodedarea toheadtowards theMonastero diSotto, the 16 road incorporatestheremains thatwasnotedin ofatavern, ning ofthe15 public, retains themightydefensiveworksbuiltatbegin- th century. We keeponasfartheCasanuovafarmhouse,then Time: 45’ Via SanesecontinuesalongthepanoramicProvincial Road

2.4 km San Donato in Poggio Pietrafitta, anancientChianticastle,ofwhichsomestruc th -century

Ancient Hospice of San Giorgio all’Eroso Time: 30’ th 1.4 km century. Animportantstoppingpointalongthe Mappe diPopolieStradeoftheCapitani

San Silvestro Time: 1h50’ , anancientoutpostoftheFlorentine Re- 5.7 km th century. The farmhouseacross the Protine th century. Time: 1h15’ 2.7 km

Pietrafitta Time: 1h 3.2 km

Monastero di Sotto Time: 35’ 1.8 km

Castellina in Chianti - - - - - 67 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: SAN DONATO IN POGGIO PIETRAFITTA

Starting point of LEG 2/3, Alternative route B

Panzano Continuing of LEG 2/3, Alternative route A see page 62 San Donato Sicelle in Poggio Pieve a Panzano Pietracupa Sant’Eufrosino

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Il Leccio Lucarelli

Caselline Santa Maria Grignano MAIN ITINERARY

La Valle

San Damè Pietraﬁtta Faggeto Gualdolino

Sassocupo Cavallari Monastero di Sotto 68 Sommavilla

Cellole LEG 2/3, Alternative route B to Siena Castellina in Chianti see page 62

Landscape along the itinerary WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 580 Distance: km 14.5 Travel time: 5h10’

This leg is 50% on asphalt roads and 50% on gravel and grass roads. Again, in this case, there are no orientation problems or difficulties in identifying the route. This is a very demanding leg that requires proper physical training. There is a variety of sometimes very steep climbs, with a total elevation gain of 710 m. On top of that, it is over 19 km long.

Transport: San Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti To be seen: Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino Parish Church of San Leolino – Panzano

Note: Those who are doing the bike itinerary and are coming from Mon- tefiridolfi, will stop in Panzano, then onward to Siena with a very challenging new leg.

69 San Donato in Poggio Pietrafitta Castellina in Chianti

14,5 km 5 km Time: 5h10’ Time: 1h35’ DEVOTION

Pietracupa and the Miraculous Image of the Madonna Along the Via Sanese there was a road tabernacle dedicated to the Virgin, with the frescoed image painted there, set on a large limestone block. At the end of the 16th century, the story spread that this image performed miracles. The local people began to make pilgrimages there and, as a result, bequests and donations grew to the point that the construction of a true sanctuary was carried out to house the tabernacle and the fresco. In 1596, the oldest part of the building was built: a church hall whose architectural features reflected the classical canons of 16th-century Man- nerism. During the 17th century, with the further growth in popular devotion and, consequently, in pilgrimages, the church was expanded with the addition of three chapels in the presbytery. At the same time, to meet the needs of the ever more numerous lay companies that went there, a large arcade that surrounds the building on three sides was built, giving it the typical aspect of a church that was a pilgrimage destination. (L. BIADI, Memorie storiche del piviere di San Pietro in Bossolo, Florence 1848).

Oratory of the Madonna of Pietracupa

70 Interior oftheParishChurchSanLeolino with theoriginalstyleinearly20 small villageofSicelle,withitsparishchurch rebuilt consistent Along theway we findtheturreted Valle manorhouse,thenthe takes ustoCastellinainChiantiandthenrejoins theViaSanese. of Sant’Eufrosinoroute,. Thisalternative thoughlonger, also – alsointhiscaseofmostlylocalimportance,theSanctuary tle, withanothernearbyholyplaceapilgrimagedestination runs across thewholevalleyindirection ofPanzanoCas - slope toward thebottomofVal diPesaalongapaththat breaks off from theViaSanesewindsthrough thehillsthat The road thatattheSanctuaryofMadonnaPietracupa and thenclimbuptotheSanctuaryofSant’Eufrosino. left to crossthe Castagnoli farmhouse, we turn the Pesa River th century. Upon reaching 71 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE 72 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Stone-paved roadalongtheroute also portrayingtheMadonnaandSaints,alate14 with SaintsPeterandPaul,apolyptychbyMariottodiNardo ing attributedtoMeliore, depictingtheMadonnaEnthroned contains ancient and precious artworks, including a panel paint- three aislesthatare separatedbyaseriesofarches onpillars.It tych oftheSieneseschool,anda15 es andarriveinPietrafitta. Castellina. We continuepast theScovoandCasucciafarmhous- River againandstartclimbinganewtheslopesofhillsbelow hamlet ofLucarelli, onstateroad 222.Here wecross thePesa the Le Masse and Castagnoli farmhouses and leads to the small The ancient Chianti dirt road runs behind the church. It passes cuspated panelpainting. Recorded asaruralchurch asearlythe10 the shortroad thatleadstothechurch branchesoff. farmhouse andreaching thestateroad 222inFerruzzi where Church diMezzo ofSanLeolinoaPanzano,passingtheVia Leaving Sant’Eufrosino, we go on in the direction of the Parish spite thefaçadehavingbeenrenovated inthe16 olino haspreserved itsoriginalRomanesquestructures inside de- th -century Florentine school th century, SanLe- th century. Ithas th centurytrip- DEVOTION

The Water of Saint Eufrosino What distinguishes the church of Sant’Eufrosino from the other minor loca sacra (holy places) on our routes is its considerable antiquity. The cult of Saint Eufrosino, in fact, dates back to the early Middle Ages and most likely relates to the effort to evangelize the Lombard Arians on the part of eastern missionaries sent to Tuscia from Rome beginning in the 620s. As early as about the 8th century, an oratory was erected on the site where one of them, known for his charity, was buried, as confirmed by the remains of a richly carved chancel screen recently brought to light during church restoration work. Today the church displays the simple and aus- tere forms resulting from a radical, 15th-century reconstruction, with a wide and uncluttered nave and a small external arcade for pilgrims. The pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino was largely because of a belief in the saint’s thaumaturgic virtues associated with the miraculous water from the little well placed inside a small chapel located next to the church, and from a small fountain inside a nearby aedicule. When ill, people from the surrounding areas came to bathe or dip their limbs in the water of Saint Eufrosino. The water was also thought to have galactophorus qualities if ingested, thus present- ing a solution to one of the most distressing problems of peasant societies of the past (R. STOPANI, Un Santuario altomedievale nel Chianti. L’oratorio di Sant’Eufrosino a Panzano, Centro di Studi Chiantigiani “Clante”, Florence 1997).

Small fountain of Sant’Eufrosino

73 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE

LEG 5: CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI UOPINI (SIENA)

Starting point of Continuing of LEG 2/3, LEG 3 Alternative route B Castellina in Chianti see page 68

Il Mandorlo

Cagnano di Sopra Il Trebbio

Tramonti Fonterutoli

Caggio

Bellosguardo Pietralta

Gallozzole

Querciagrossa

Gaggiola

Santa Chiara Ripa Poggiarello Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 km)

Santa Fortunata 74

Uopini

Tognazza

Acquaviva

Piazza Duomo (Siena)

View along the route WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km) Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 320 Distance: km 21 Travel time: 6h 05’

This leg takes place almost exclusively on gravel roads and on trails. The route is readily identifiable and there are no difficulties or problems of orientation. This leg is particularly demanding for the distance to be covered. It spreads over a hilly environment of great beauty and fascination with valleys and hills characterized by alternating cultivated fields and hardwood groves. Some of the land crossed belongs to farmers who also raise Cinta Senese pigs. Note: For hikers, Uopini is considered the end of this leg. From here public transport can be used to reach the town of Siena (lines 036, 527, 528, 573, 596, or visit website http://www.sienamobilita.it/).

Transport: Castellina in Chianti Fonterutoli Siena

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato S. Andrea in Percussina Montefiridolfi S. Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti S. Andrea in Percussina Montefiridolfi S. Donato in Poggio Castellina in Chianti Siena 76 www.vieromee.it 2nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 5 Osteria diFonteRutiliisshownonthe16 village itsname. Capitani diParteGuelfa,depictingalsothespringthatgave Camollia where we enterSiena through the14 From here, thebustakesusuptomajesticoutergateof which offered eightplacestopilgrims. could countontheassistancegiveninUopiniathospicethere, that haspreserved intactits originalRomanesquefeatures. One reaching thecity:small village ofUopini,withitssmallchurch near. Ouritinerary comes across a finalstoppingpoint before highway andtherailwaycometoMolinuzzo.Sienaisnow Basciano andPalazzetto.We cross undertheFlorence-Siena towards Sienaalongdirtroads, pasttheMolinodelloStaggia, At MolinodiQuercegrossa, wecross thestateroad andproceed Sienese castle. Molino di Quercegrossa, the townthatgrew onthesiteof andCasalinowereach Sornano the farmhouses ofSornanino, Using backroads thatrunparallel withthestateroad, wepassthe Sienese Statutes. castle thathousedtheHospiceofSanJacoporecorded inthe1349 farm, notonthestateroad, and thenontoQuercegrossa, aSienese Then we encounter the village of Then we encounterthe village of stopping pointsalongtheroad, aswellreaching Siena. tive route, itenablesgoingtoallthemanyplacesthatwere once survived andrunparalleltothestateroad. Usefulasanalterna Long stretches ofthemedievalroute –nowacountryroad –have the ancientViaSaneseasfarSiena. Beyond Castellina,stateroad 222basicallyfollowstheroute of our journey ends. our journey hospice ofSantaMariadellaScalainfront ofthecathedral us into the Via del Capitanothatleads diCittà,wefindtotheright and Via deiMontanini,Banchi diSopra diCamollia,Via Following Via Time: 25’

1.7 km Castellina in Chianti Piazza del Duomo. Before the old building of the

Time: 1h45’ Godenano 5.4 km

Fonterutoli Time: 1h15’ 5 km

Casalino Time: 1h15’ 4.5 km Frassi, where now is a holiday Fonterutoli

La Staggia Time: 35’ 1.4 km th

Basciano centurymapsofthe where the tavern Time: 50’ 3 km th

Uopini -century walls.

Piazza Duomo (Siena) - Torre del Mangia, Piazza del Campo in Siena

77 ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION

Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano San Donato in Poggio Art B&B Azienda Agricola Conio Via della Volta, 6 Via Sinigogola, 1 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa San Donato in Poggio Tel: 055 8290372 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Fax: 055 8294149 Tel: 055 8072055 - 055 8072822 [email protected] Fax: 055 8072822 www.bbart.eu www.aziendaagricolaconio.it

Di Chiara Michela Affittacamere B&B Palazzo Malaspina Via Volterrana, 287 Via del Giglio, 35 Chiesanuova San Donato in Poggio 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Tel: 055 827209 Tel: 055 8072946 www.palazzomalaspina.it La Fonte del Machiavelli B&B Via Scopeti, 54 Fattoria la Ripa Sant’ Andrea in Percussina Strada Provinciale per Castellina, 27 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa San Donato in Poggio Tel: 055 8249598 - Fax: 055 8249598 50021 Barberino Valdelsa [email protected] Tel: 055 8072948 www.lafontedelmachiavelli.com [email protected] www.laripa.it Massanera Agriturismo Via Faltignano, 76 Il Glicine Affittacamere Chiesanuova Via de’ Baluardi, 5a 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa San Donato in Poggio Tel: 055 8242360 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Fax: 055 8242441 Tel: 055 8071604 - Fax: 055 8071604 [email protected] [email protected] www.massanera.com La Papessa Affittacamere Parrocchia San Casciano Via Montecchio, 4 Via Guarucci, 8 San Donato in Poggio 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Tel: 055 820218 Tel: 055 8072363

78 Montefiridolfi Pietracupa Affittacamere Il Convento di Bini Cristina Affittacamere Via Madonna di Pietracupa, 31 Via Collina, 11 San Donato in Poggio Montefiridolfi 50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa Tel: 055 8072400 - Fax: 055 8072142 Tel: 0558244449 [email protected] www.locandapietracupa.com Petigliolo Affittacamere Via Petigliolo, 19/a Castellina in Chianti Montefiridolfi Castello Fonterutoli B&B 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa Via Ottone III, 5 Tel: 055 8244029 Loc. Fonterutoli 53011 Castellina in Chianti Sant’Angello Affittacamere Tel. 0577 741385 Via Collina, 56 Montefiridolfi Podere Monastero Affittacamere 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa Monastero, 37 Tel: 333 8001684 53011 Castellina in Chianti Tel: 0577 740436 Villa S. Andrea Affittacamere Via di Fabbrica Tatini Andrea Affittacamere Montefiridolfi San Martino, 28 50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa 53011 Castellina in Chianti Tel: 055 8249033 Tel: 0577 740534 Cell: 329 8113124 Tel. 055 2313729 [email protected] www.proimpruneta.rdt.it www.casatatini.com Comune di Impruneta (urp): Tel: 055 2036430 / 428 Villa Cristina Affittacamere Via Fiorentina, 34 UPT San Casciano 53011 Castellina in Chianti Public library Tel: 0577 741166 - Fax: 0577 742936 of San Casciano in Val di Pesa [email protected] Via Roma, 37 - 50026 San Casciano www.villacristina.it in Val di Pesa (Florence) Tel: 055 8256380 Siena Fax: 055 8229920 Accoglienza Santa Luisa www.comune.san-casciano-val-di-pesa.fi.it Via San Girolamo, 8 53011 Siena Pro Loco Tavarnelle in Val di Pesa Tel: 0577 284377 Piazza Matteotti 50020 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence) Alma Domus Santuario Santa Caterina Tel: 055 8077832 Via Camporegio, 31 Fax: 055 8077832 53011 Siena www.prolocotavarnelle.it Tel: 0577 44177 - Fax: 0577 47601 Tourist information Panzano in Chianti Caritas Affittacamere Via Le Ginestre, 9 Via della Diana, 4 50020 Panzano in Chianti (Florence) 53011 Siena Tel: 055 0940024 Tel: 0577 280643 www.panzanoinchianti.com [email protected] www.caritas-siena.org Pro Loco San Donato in Poggio Via del Giglio, 47 Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi 50020 San Donato In Poggio, P.za A. Manzoni, 8 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence) 53011 Siena Tel: 0558072338 Tel: 0577 222633 www.sandonatoinpoggio.it

Casa per ferie Istituto Maria de’ Gori Pro Loco Radda in Chianti Via dei Servi, 31 Piazza Castello, 2 53011 Siena 53017 Radda in Chianti (SI) 79 Tel: 0577 221076 Tel: 0577 838003 Fax: 0577 221298 Fax: 0577 738062 www.comune.radda-in-chianti.si.it Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto Via del Lecceto, 6 Proloco Castellina in Chianti 53011 Siena Via Ferruccio, 40 Tel: 0577 349393 53011 Castellina In Chianti (SI) Tel: 0577 741392 - 0577 741393 Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio www.chiantistorico.com/it/contact/castellina.php Via Fiorentina, 89 53011 Siena Library of Castellina in Chianti Tel: 0577 52212 Via Pietro Nenni, 26 [email protected] 53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI) www.ostelloguidoriccio.com Tel: 0577 740201 Fax: 0577 742355 Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII www.castellinainchianti.com Via Montarioso, 35 53011 Siena APT Siena Tel: 0577 587011 Piazza del Campo 56 53100 Siena (Si) TOURIST INFORMATION Tel: 0577 280551 - 0577 42209 Fax: 0577 270676 - 0577 28104 Impruneta Associazione Pro Loco [email protected] Piazza Garibaldi www.terresiena.it Tourist information office Siena Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte Piazza Rosselli - 53100 Siena (SI) Feast of San Michele Arcangelo Tel. 0577 270600 (last Sunday of September) www.comune.siena.it Castellina in Chianti Rental Feast of the Patron Saint, San Fausto Alinari (third Sunday of September) Bike and scooter rental Castelnuovo Berardenga Via Guelfa, 85r - 50129 - Florence Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Giusto Tel: 055 280500 and Clemente (5 June) www.alinarirental.com Good Friday Procession, Stations of the Cross in costume (Easter) Florence by bike Bike and scooter rental Greve in Chianti Via San Zanobi, 120/122r Festival of Rificolona (7 September) 50129 - Florence Tel. e Fax: 055 488 992 Greve in Chianti Loc. Panzano www.florencebybike.it Festival of “Stagion Bona”, historical re-enactment (April) Rent Way Feast of Sante Marie and fair P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r (15 August) 50122 - Florence Impruneta Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820 Feast of the Patron Saint, San Luca www.rentway.it (18 October) [email protected] Monteriggioni Ciclosport di Porciatti Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint, Via Trento, 82 Maria Vergine (8 September) 53036 - Poggibonsi (SI) Festa dei Rioni and Torneo del Barilotto Tel: 0577 938507 (September)

Ciclofficina di Bettini Radda in Chianti Via Redipuglia, 17/19 Festa del Perdono 53036 - Poggibonsi (SI) (beginning of September) Tel: 0577 936881 Feast of the Patron Saint, San Niccolò (29 September) Furgoncin 80 San Casciano Val di Pesa Via Cassia Nord Festa della Battitura (28 June) 53035 - Castellina Scalo, Monteriggioni (SI) Festival of Rificolona (7 September) Tel: 0577 305015 Feast of the Patron Saint, San Casciano (13 August) Centro bici Viale Toselli, 110 San Donato in Poggio 53100 Siena Borgo incantato (end of June) Tel: 0577 282550 Feast of San Donato (7 August) Corpus Domini Procession with flowers DF Motor (14 June) Via dei Gazzani, 16 53100 Siena Siena Tel: 0577 288387 Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May) Palio della Madonna di Provenzano DF Bike (2 July) Via massetana romana, 54 Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August) 53100 Siena Santa Lucia (13 December) Tel: 0577 271905 Sant’Ansano (1 December)

Events and Fairs Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Barberino Val d’Elsa Pentecost Festival (May, June) Feast of Beato Davanzato Borgo Incantato (June) (first Sunday in July) Festa della Battitura (July) Feast of San Bartolomeo (24 August) Feast of Santa Lucia 3rd ITINERARY

THE VIA PISANA 81 and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa

The strata per quam itur Pisas represented a predominantly commercial artery for medieval Florence. Together with the Arno - at that time an inland waterway – it served to channel the flow of traffic from the larger towns in the lower Valdarno district, and that to the port of Pisa. Yet the road was also used by pilgrims going to Pisa – and later, to Leghorn – for embarkation to San- tiago de Compostela, also because it could be used as a link to the Via Francigena, the quintessential via peregrinalis, whose route was intersected southwest of Empoli, near the confluence of the Elsa into the Arno River. 3rd ITINERARY

THE VIA PISANA and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa

Porta San Frediano (Florence) Lastra a Signa

Empoli

Castelﬁorentino

Certaldo

Poggibonsi

Monteriggioni

Piazza Duomo (Siena)

THE ITINERARY

Starting Point: Porta San Frediano (Florence) End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena) Elevation gain:

350 Castle of the Chiocciola Castle of the Villa

300 Ancient village of Cerbaia

250 Junction S. Martino, Casale - Lazzaro detour 200 Hermitage of Lecceto Junction S. Martino Maiano, Casale - Lazzaro detour

150 (landscape) Il Torrino

100 S. Martino Maiano, Casale - Lazzaro detour Detour to Castle of Oliveto Church of Sant’Ippolito Le Piagge Railway Station 50 Renai Park 00 WALKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 135.9 Distance (local itinerary): km 4.8 Distance (alternative route): km 12.9 Level of technical difficulty: T-E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station, Renai Park, Signa Distance: km 15.5 - Page 88 Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli Waypoints: Villa Caruso, Hermitage of Lecceto, Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana Distance: km 21.9 - Page 94 Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino Waypoints: Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere Distance: km 21 - Page 100 Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano Distance: km 15.1 - Page 106 Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Castello di Oliveto Distance: km 4.8 - Page 110 Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi Waypoints: Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bascinano, San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano Distance: km 20.9 - Page 112 Legs 4 / 5, Alternative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118 Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove Distance: km 21 - Page 122 83 Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza Duomo (Siena) Waypoints: Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce Distance: km 20.5 - Page 126

After passing through Cascine Park in Florence, our route goes on along the shared-use path that leads to Renai Park in Signa. We continue along the hills in the western end of Chianti, staying on the right bank of the Elsa River. The landscape of inestimable beauty offers views over rural panoramas that are characterized by 19th-century farms with vineyards, olive groves, woods, and cultivated fields. The tour unwinds on dirt and asphalt roads and alternates between tourist-style and hiking stretches. In rural areas, there may be orientation problems due to insufficient signage and place-name information. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the route runs parallel to the Via Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, and Acquaviva.

Note: The legs are easily practicable on foot or by bicycle but are demanding because of their length, the climbs and the few points with water and refreshments. Good physical training is required. The road bed is either asphalt (55%), or with gravel and grass (45%). 3rd ITINERARY

THE VIA PISANA and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa

Porta San Frediano (Florence)

Hermitage of Lecceto

Castelﬁorentino

Poggibonsi

Piazza Duomo (Siena)

View of the Val d’Elsa countryside BIKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 135.9 Distance (alternative route): km 12.9 Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC Level of physical difficulty: Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Hermitage of Lecceto Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station, Renai Park, Signa, Lastra a Signa, Villa Caruso

Distance: km 21.1 - Page 88 Leg 2: Hermitage of Lecceto – Castelfiorentino Waypoints: Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana, Empoli, Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere Distance: km 37.3 - Page 94 Leg 3: Castelfiorentino – Poggibonsi Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano, Certaldo, Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano, San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano Distance: km 36 - Page 106 Leg 3, Alterative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118 Leg 4: Poggibonsi – Piazza Duomo (Siena) Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove, Monteriggioni, Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce Distance: km 41.5 - Page 122

Some sections follow asphalt roads and bike paths, others are suitable for bicyclists of average technical capacity, along dirt roads with slightly rough or uneven road beds (cattle tracks, cart roads, etc.) and smooth, well-beaten trails. Almost all legs have steep climbs. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the route runs parallel to the Via Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, and then in Acquaviva. 85 Note: The tourist-style bike route is not particularly difficult, other than the need for adequate physical training related to the climbs and the length of the legs. Little-used asphalt roads account for 55% of the route and are suitable also for racing bikes; the remaining 45% have gravel and beaten earth road beds and are suitable for either mountain or city bikes.

The Arno at the Ponte della Vittoria, Florence 86 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA Malmantile, Monslupus,andPonturmus. in the Innkeepers’ Guild that private hospitatores were also found Gangalandi, aboveall.Yet itisclearfrom the1334Statutoof through whichtheroad passed–inEmpoli,LastraaSignaand accommodation structures thatconcentrated inthemaintowns In additiontothesecharitableorganizationswere commercial Annunciate plebis. the three hospicesisdocumented: theDomuspauperumhospitalis, Along theArnoatIndiano especially inEmpoliwhere, inthe14 lupo, the della Tagliata and a hospice run by the Dominicans in Monte- fered hospitalitytopilgrims were theHospice and thatoftheparishchurch inSigna.Otherinstitutionsthatof- stratam publicam” in Gangalandi, the Weavers’ Guild; a hospice set founded in1411byorder oftheFlorentine consulsoftheSilk along, there were: thehospiceofSant’AntonioinLastraaSigna, pice PontisdeGrieveandtheHospiceCasellina).Continuing hospice oftheCappone),PonteaGreve, andCasellina (theHos- Hospices were alsofoundin “burgoSanctiFridiani”,Legnaia(the at theroute’s beginninginFlorence near PortaSanFrediano. Mariae deVerzaria iuxtastratamquaiturFlorentiaPisasright the road wasusedbypilgrims,withahospiceinpopuloSanctae way toPisaissufficient todemonstratethatintheMiddleAges The existenceofafullrangehospitalityfacilities along the WayHospitality Along The Lignaria, Scandicci,PonsadGrevem,PlanusSeptimi,Ugnanus, Hospice EcclesiaeSanctiAugustiniandthe Hospice Sancti Leonardi de Cerbaiola in Cerbaiola, and “prope fossatum Rimagii et prope th hospice of SanFrancesco, century, the existenceof Virginis Mariesive Societas The Via Quinctia

The medieval route of the Via Pisana followed the general out- lines of the Via Quinctia, the Roman road to Pisa. While the 1752 discovery of a milestone near Montelupo, whose inscription – T.QUINTIUS. T.F. / FLAMINIUS / COS / PISAS X – allowed the road to be identified, nothing remains of the characteristic Roman road bed, erased by centuries of history, and especially by the Arno as it flooded and changed course. In turn, the modern road follows the directional axis of the medieval road to Pisa whose course, however, was probably characterized by passing nearer the foothills thus further away from the course of the Arno. Over time, there were corrections, adjust- ments, and modifications to its course. In fact, the 1322-1325 Statuto del Capitano del Popolo talks of a “stratam novam et car- rarecciam confectam a Ponte de Signe ad Pontem Pese de Monte Lupo” (Liber IV Capitulus X).

However, the string of villages – many with the typically elongated urban structure of the “street-villages” – leaves no doubt about the general correspondence between the modern and the medieval course of a road that, as Repetti states, was still in the 19th century “the most utilized of all the post roads, both for goods and transport that pass, over it and for its comfort, breadth and excel- lent maintenance, as well as the frequency of the villages, hamlets and towns that it crosses” (E.REPETTI, Dizionario geografico fisico storico della Toscana, Florence 1832-1843, vol. V, p.570).

87 Certaldo Alto seen from the hills to the North 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 1: PORTA SAN FREDIANO (Florence) LASTRA A SIGNA

San Martino Le Piagge Railway Station San Donnino Piazzaletto dell’Indiano

Starting point Signa of LEG 11

Renai Park Ponte alla Vittoria

Lastra a Signa Porta San Frediano (Florence)

LEG 1 to Hermitage of Lecceto see page 94

Mill near Renai WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station, Renai Park, Signa Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 30 Distance: km 15,5 Travel time: 4h

Entirely on the plain, this leg is a tourist-style route that goes along narrow asphalt roads and shared-use paths. It is well marked and does not present any orientation problems. The tourist-style route begins from Porta San Frediano, crosses Cascine Park in Florence, and continues on the shared-use path that goes from Florence to Renai Park in Signa. The last part passes through the towns of Signa and Lastra a Signa. Note: The route requires a minimum of physical training. Asphalt roads account for 55% of the itinerary, with the remaining 45% gravel and dirt roads, making it suitable for either a mountain or a city bike.

Transport: Florence Lastra a Signa To be seen: Renai Park in Signa Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in Signa 15th-century town walls in Lastra a Signa San Martino in Gangalandi

LEGS

Santa Maria in Mantignano and San Salvatore in Settimo The construction of a bike path on the left side of the river is under consideration. It would run from the Cascine over the Ponte dell’Indiano, and could be used to visit places of particular historical and artistic interest. One such example is in Mantignano with the ancient Church of Santa Maria, formerly a Benedictine convent of women. Documented as early as 1082, the church – currently a parish church – has retained the original Romanesque structure virtually intact. It has a single nave with an apse and protruding transept. But of special interest, near the ancient Via Pisana, is the Abbey of San Salvatore in Settimo, a very important church in the religious history of Florence. According to tradition, the abbey was founded in the early 11th century by Lotario of the Cadolingi counts and, like all Ben- edictine foundations, offered hospitality. The hospitium peregrinorum sive pauperum dates back to 1096 and was built on land donated to the monastery by the Carolingian Count Ughiccione. In 1060 the abbey of Settimo passed to the Vallombrosan Order and was the scene of the miraculous event related to Peter Igneous, the monk who passed the “trial by fire” (hence his name), demonstrating the truth of the allegations of simony that Saint John Gualbert had addressed to the bishop of Florence, Pietro Mezzabarba. In 1236 the Cister- cians replaced the Vallombrosans and remained until the Leopoldine suppression in 1782. We owe them the reorganization of the great abbey complex that, in addition to the church, includes a series of monastic buildings gathered around two cloisters and with the whole enclosed by 14th- and 15th-century fortifications. Today the church retains the layout that was the result of a 13th-century reconstruction carried out by the Cistercians that incorporated the structures of the existing 11th-century building, still visible in some of the walls and in the left apse. It consists of three aisles with wooden trusses, but the 90 choir is the result of a 15th-century renovation. Below the presbytery is the vaulted crypt with columns, another remnant of the 11th-century building. We should also note that the sepulcher of the countesses Gasdia and Cilla dates back to the original building; the sepulcher is a chest inlaid with white and serpentine marble, with a fronton and the inscription anno 1096. Also of great importance are the large 15th- century cloister and the large, three-aisled chapter room with cross vaulted ceilings rising from columns. The entire complex is currently undergoing significant renovations and improvements.

The Fortifications of the Abbey of Settimo the historicalandterritorialevidencelinkedtoroad isfound. wherePisana ranalongtheleftsideofArno obviouslyall This pathisrecommended, althoughtheancientroute oftheVia on therightsideofriveruntilreaching RenaiParkinSigna. diSanBiagioaPetroio.take Via Abikepathstartshere thatruns WashingtonViale untilwereach thePiazzalettodell’Indianoand We gothrough Lincoln andthenon CascineParkalongViale ful naturalsetting. outskirtsofthecitywhileremainingthe western inaverybeauti- thusavoiding Park, whichrunsalongtherightbankofArno, Weof thePonteallaVittoria. cross thebridgeand enter Cascine Frediano thatcontinuesasfarPiazzaTaddeo Gaddiinfront SantaRosanearPortaSan A bikepathgoesalongLungarno road thatretraces theancientViaPisana. cle traffic thatcharacterizesthemodern Tosco-Romagnola state Pisana, webranchoff ontopaths avoid theintense vehi- While ouritineraryessentiallyfollowsthatofthemedievalVia Detail oftheporch,HospiceS.Antonio,LastraaSigna

Porta San Frediano (Florence) Time: 15’ 0.9 km

Cascine Park Time: 2h45’ 11 km

Renai Park Time: 15’ 0.9 km

Signa Time: 30’ 1.8 km

Church of San Martino a Gangalandi Time: 15’ 0.9 km

Lastra a Signa 91 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1 92 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1 Weavers’ Guildappearsonthelintelofa15 travelers andpilgrimswere housed.Acoat-of-armsfortheSilk with cross vaultedceilingsthatlookontotheloggiaare where work inLastraaSignaisdocumented.Thethree largerooms by Brunelleschi,whoseactivityforthetownwallrestoration already Renaissancevisionthatmakesusthinkitisanearlywork elements are gothicizing,theproportions andspacesshowan serena octagonalcolumns with foliagecapitals.Evenifindividual seven arches whichare partiallywalledupandrisefrom pietra cient centerhaspreserved theearly15 Just beyondGangalandiliesLastraaSigna,whosemostan- a GangalandiandLastraSigna. road, but in the opposite direction so as to reach At PonteaSigna,wecontinueforshortstretch onthestate Tower”, whichisstillstandingandoverlookstheroad. bridge thatwasguarded by amedievalfortificationcalled“the back to1217.Ahospice,documentedin1258,stoodnearthe over thecenturiesandwhoseearliesthistoricalreference dates thathasbeendestroyedthe bridgeoverArno severaltimes just beyondthebridgeonStateRoad.Itsnamederivesfrom We crossatSigna; thesmallvillageofPonteaSignais theArno pulpit inmarbleslabsinlaidwithgeometricdesigns. a large15 great interest, insidethewallsisHospiceofSant’Antonio, the so-called“PortonediBaccio”,toppedbyahightower. Of that enclosedthe“terra”,orcity, including themaingateway, church, attributabletothe 12 of SanLorenzo, Signa’s earlyparishchurch; itisasingle-nave cular pillarsmadeofstoneashlars.NotfarawayistheOratory San GiovanniBattista,withthree wideaislesdivided bycir village ofthecastle–islate-RomanesqueParishChurch of Maria alCastello.Inthelowerpartoftown–ancient turreted remnants ofthedefensivewallsthatencircled it,including the maintained thelayoutofmedievalcastleaswellsome whose slope overlooks the river, the oldest part of Signa has andgoesdirectlyof theArno toSigna.Setatthetopofahill As wehavesaid,thebikepathcontinuesalongrightbank guild’s role inbuildingthehospice. in oneofthelargerooms onthefirstfloor, remindingusofthe

Porta San Frediano Time: 15’ 0.9 km (Florence) Porta diSanMiniatoandthenearbyChurch ofSanta th -century buildinghaving,atitsbase,aloggiawith Cascine Park Time: 2h45’ 11 km

Renai Park Time: 15’ 0.9 km th centuryandcontainsacoeval

Signa Time: 30’ 1.8 km th -century fortifications

Church of San Martino th a Gangalandi -century fireplace Time: 15’ 0.9 km San Martino

Lastra a Signa - A LAND OF SAINTS

Blessed Giovanna of Signa The rural church of Signa was also called the “parish church of the Blessed Soul” and, in the Middle Ages, it attracted a considerable flow of pilgrims, mostly from the surrounding area. In fact, in a 15th-century wooden chest painted by Pietro da Gambassi, the church housed the body of the Blessed Giovanna of Signa, a pious woman from the 14th century. Her intense ascetic virtues and the miracles wrought during her life were the basis of the particular devotion for this blessed woman immediately following her death. Already in the first half of the 15th century, the walls of the church’s apse were frescoed with Episodes from the Life of the Blessed Giovanna by a painter from Neri di Bicci’s circle, the so-called “Master of Signa”. The growth in the number of pilgrims, attracted by the miraculous virtues attributed to the blessed woman, must also have led to the creation of the hospice of Santi Gualberto and Onofrio adjoining the church and documented as early as 1376.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Church of San Martino a Gangalandi Recorded in the early 12th century as the suffragan of the Signa parish church, the church of Gangalandi – not by chance named after Saint Martin, the patron saint of travelers – obtained the privilege of having a baptismal font in 1278, a consequence of the collapse of the bridge over the Arno that had made communication difficult with the mother church across the river. For this reason, the building was enlarged, its construction dating to the years between the 13th and 14th centuries, with the exception of the elegant décor in the apse with pietra serena pilasters and cornices, which is traditionally attributed to Leon Battista 93 Alberti. On the façade is a large colonnade, inside of which was a late medieval fresco representing St. Christopher; a clear reference to the assistance given to pilgrims, that was later detached and placed inside the church. Moreover, a hospice existed in Gangalandi prope stratam publicam and, not unexpectedly, the art works kept in the church refer to acts of charity towards travelers. A fragment of a 14th-century fresco shows Saint Martin on horseback whereas he is depicted giving his cloak to a poor man in the frescoes by Bicci di Lorenzo that decorate the walls of the internal tempietto that serves as a baptistery.

Detail of the frescoes in the Church of San Martino a Gangalandi 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA LEG 2: LASTRA A SIGNA EMPOLI

Continuing of LEG 1 see page 88

Lastra a Signa

Villa Caruso Bellosguardo Starting point of LEG 2 La Falterona Hermitage of Lecceto Malmantile Torre della Badia

LEG 2 to Montelupo Castelﬁorentino Gavignano see page 100 Turbone FIbbiana

Turbone Empoli Church of Sant’Ippolito

94 The Town Walls of Lastra a Signa WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Villa Caruso, Monastery of Lecceto, Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 170 Distance: km 21.9 Travel time: 5h55’

This tourist-style leg goes primarily along dirt roads, in the stretch between Lastra a Signa and S. Ippolito, whereas the final part is exclusively along asphalt roads. The route is well-marked and does not offer any problems of orientation. The initial climb towards the Monastery of Lecceto and the overall distance of this section require suitable physical training. Note: There is very little shade along this leg except for the wooded stretch between Lastra a Signa and Malmantile. Water and refreshments can be found in the towns and villages along the way. Particular attention should be paid by those on foot along the provincial and regional roadways between Sant’Ippolito and Montelupo and between Cortenuova and the center of Empoli.

Transport: Lastra a Signa Lecceto/Malmantile Empoli To be seen: Villa Caruso Bellosguardo Hermitage of Lecceto Castle of Malmantile Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana House of Pontormo – at Pontormo, near Empoli

LEGS

Montelupo, The Land of Ceramics Located near the confluence of the Pesa into the River Arno, Mon- telupo was one of the main centers encountered on the course of the Via Pisana: not by chance were there two hospices as well as numerous accommodation facilities (inns and hostels). It is famous still today for the artistic pottery and the ceramics industry that have existed here since the Middle Ages, and, as a result, is now the seat of an important museum of ceramics. Its parish church is dedicated to St. John the Evangelist and was founded in 1326 on the site of a hospice dedicated to St. Nicholas. Currently, however, the church shows the results of a radical 18th-century renovation. The town of Montelupo is dominated by the ruins of the Floren- tine castle built in the 13th century to oppose the Pistoiese one of Capraia facing it from across the Arno. One of the fort’s towers was used as the bell-tower of the castle church of San Lorenzo, a building from the 13th-14th centuries, renovated during the Re- naissance.

Church of San Lorenzo a Montelupo

96 the corbelsinpietraserena that supported theparapetwalks. brasures, above which some of the brackets still remain, namely that dividesthetown.Alongperimeterofwallsare em- at thetwogatesinshortersides,endsofroad and in the middle of the long sides, the walls open the corners Reconstruction ofthewallsMalmantile beginning ofthe15 served remarkably intactthe entire boundarywallbuiltatthe A little further onisthecastle of Malmantile,which has pre- the supportofFilippoStrozzi. dedicated toSaintsPhilipandJames,establishedin1473with Pace familyin1343,thentheDominicanConventofLecceto, melite monastery founded on a villa given to the order by the Del route, we find the hills that divide the lower Valdarno from the Val di Pesa. On this Via Pisana;itstartsnearPonteaSignaandwindsthrough the gest usingprovincial roadtothemodern No.72asanalternative To continuetowards MontelupoafterLastraaSigna,wesug-

Time: 40’ Lastra a Signa 2 km

Time: 1h20’ Church of Santa Maria delle Selve 4.6 km Church of Santa Maria delle Selve, a Car th century. Arectangular planwithtowersat

Castle of Malmantile

Time: 2h10’ Church of San Pietro in Selve 8.4 km

Montelupo Time: 10’ 0.7 km

Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana Time: 1h15’ 5 km Church of San Michele Arcangelo a Pontorme Time: 20’ 1.2 km

Empoli - 97 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2 98 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2 nesses there. there aswelltheotheraccommodationstructures andbusi- tine countryside,asseenbythethree hospicesthatwere located We reach Empoli,themainstoponViaPisanainFloren- documented from 1334. hospice dedicatedtoSaintMarywasattachedthechurch and manesque façadepreserves tracesoftheoriginalbrickwork;a significant. DedicatedtoSaintMichaeltheArchangel, theRo- with aparishchurch, with the oneinPontormebeingespecially villages (Fibbiana, TinaiaCortenuovaandPontorme),each Tosco-Romagnola stateroad andpassesthrough aseriesofsmall direction trackthatrunsparalleltothe ofEmpolionaninternal medieval towerthatoverlookstheriver. Thenweheadinthe the smallvillageofTorre, whosenamederivesfrom thelate we reachenti. Then, following along the left bank of the Arno, giana, built by Ferdinand I and designed by Bernardo Buontal- continuestowards ofAmbroOur journey theMediceanVilla - Montelupo toCerbaia. secondary road totheleft oftheprovincial road thatconnects Turbone River, atributaryofthePesa,andthenuseaninternal Along adirtroad wecome tothepedestrianbridgeover ends inasemi-circular apse. esque buildingwithasinglenaveandprotruding transeptthat the ancientmatrixchurch ofMontelupo, abeautifulRoman- come totheParishChurch ofSant’Ippolito andCassiano, Gello, sloping down to the valley floor ofthe PesaRiver.Villa We rightontoadirtroadand thenturn thatcrosses Scopicciand to Malmantile, we retraceReturning our steps for 200 meters other reference totheheavenlyprotection oftravelers!). coes depictingsomesaints,includingaSaintChristopher(an- in Selve,onwhosefaçadeare preserved the14 Just beyondMalmantile,wecometotheChurch ofSanPietro

Time: 40’ Lastra a Signa 2 km

Time: 1h20’ Church of Santa Maria delle Selve 4.6 km

Castle of Malmantile

Time: 2h10’ Church of San Pietro in Selve 8.4 km

Montelupo Time: 10’ 0.7 km

Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana Time: 1h15’ 5 km Church of San Michele Arcangelo a Pontorme th Time: 20’ -century fres- 1.2 km

Empoli VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Churches of Empoli Before entering the historic center, we find the 17th-century Church of the Madonna del Pozzo, an unusual octagonal tabernacle preceded by a small nave and surrounded outside by a loggia. The building was erected on the spot where formerly there had stood a tabernacle; miraculously unscathed in a fire, it was for this reason that it also became a pilgrimage destination, albeit in a strictly local sense. It was located outside the 15th-century walls that enclosed the medieval village, and remains of the walls are still visible in several parts of the city. Inside the walls were the Gothic Church of Santo Stefano, part of a convent of Augustinian friars, and the ancient Parish Church of Sant’Andrea. Romane- sque features of the latter remain only on the lower part of the façade. (The upper part was rebuilt in the 18th-century when the church was radically altered to create a single large nave). The five harmonious arches in green and white marble on the surviving section of the façade clearly recall the façade of San Miniato al Monte in Florence and are the only example in all the countryside of the decorative practice of covering buildings with marble in- lays, typical of the Florentine Romanesque style.

The Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea in Empoli

99 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 3: EMPOLI CASTELFIORENTINO

Empoli Continuing of LEG 2 see page 94

Cerbaiola Pozzale Corniola

Casino di Monterbero Il Torrino Montemagnoli Monterappoli Santa Domitilla

Bellosguardo Sant’Andrea

Camposano

Belvedere

Castelnuovo D’Elsa Cafaggio

Cambiano

100 Castelﬁorentino

View of Castelfiorentino on an 18th-century cadastral map WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere Level of technical difficulty: T-E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 180 Distance: km 21 Travel time: 5h40’ This leg is a tourist-style hike: half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There can be problems of orientation on some of the rural stretches that lack references to place-names. The hilly stretch is characterized by panoramic views on the Val d’Elsa. Note: The route is half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There are few points where water or refreshments are available. You must be in good physical condition for the walk. Monterappoli is the first point that connects with the Via Francigena that, passing through Pogni and Mulin Novo, connects us to “Sigeric’s route” in Baccanella. It is also possible to reach the Via Francigena from Castel- fiorentino through a junction that heads south from Viale dei Profeti. Past the bridge over the Scolmatore canal, we turn right and stay on Viale dei Profeti. Once past Palazzina, we come again to the Via Francigena. Transport: Empoli Castelfiorentino To be seen: Church of San Leonardo in Cerbaiola Church of Santi Simone and Giuda a Corniola Panorama of the Val d’Elsa from Il Torrino Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Monterappoli Panorama from Bellosguardo Panorama from Belvedere Sanctuary of Santa Verdiana and the Museum of Sacred Art – Castelfiorentino

101

LEGS

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Monterappoli The original characteristics of this brick building have been preserved almost intact. It has a large single nave that ends in a semicircular apse and is enriched by external wall decorations (in- tertwined arches, bull’s eye windows, small embedded windows, the central part of the façade jutting out) that highlight the in- volvement of workers from the Po River valley as confirmed by the inscription on the portal lintel that refers to its craftsman, MAG- ISTER BONSERI EX GENTE LOMBARDA, as well as the year of its construction (1165). A series of architectural ceramics – only a few remain – set at the top of the façade refer to an ornamental practice that undoubtedly arrived by way of Pisa. The door lintel also displays a carved benedictory Dextera Domini, or Hand of God, a clear sign of the charitable function that the parish church must have had for pilgrims.

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Monterappoli

102 whose beautiful17 , whichwasthesiteofaCarmeliteconvent, Giuda aCorniola A littlefartheron,wereach theChurch ofSantiSimonee of Maltafrom the16 The benedictoryDexteraDomini,parishchurchofSanGiovanniBattistainMonterappoli Guidi countsinthe12 ardo diCerbaiola,aformerpilgrims’hospicefoundedbythe suburb of Pratovecchio. We come to the dential districtofQuartiere Carrarainthedirection oftheEmpoli Leaving thehistoricalcenterofEmpoli,wemoveintoresi- to SaintJohntheEvangelist. building inbrick.Notfarfrom itistheparishchurch dedicated whose parish church has traces of the original Romanesque village ofMonterappoli,theancientcastleGuidicounts, back upthecourseofElsa.Alongway, wecometothe than thatofthestateroad 429inthevalleybelow, whichgoes tween the Valdelsa and the Val d’Orme – a more route internal along theridgeoflowhills–thatserveaswatershedbe- supplanted thisimportantmedievalarteryandwhichfollows we come to the roadAfter Corniola, that is considered to have cigena thatranalongtherightbankofElsaRiver. the mostrecent ofthevarious routes Fran- constitutingtheVia In Empoli, we leave the

Time: 1h10’ Empoli 4.3 km th

Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola -century cloisterremains. th Time: 25’ century until theNapoleonic suppression. th 1.4 km century, andthatbelongedtotheOrder Via Pisana behind to head south to join

Church of Santi Simone e Giuda a Corniola Time: 1h10’ 3.5 km

Monterappoli Church of San Leon- Time: 10’ 0.7 km

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista Time: 2h45’ 11.1 km

Castelfiorentino 103 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3 104 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3 Church ofSantaVerdiana inCastelfiorentino oirs, startingfrom the12 Francigena,unfailinglyrecalled“new” Via inthepilgrims’mem dere –wereach Castelfiorentino, thestoppingpointon the waywecomeacross names likeBellosguardo andBelve of reference. Across thebeautifulVal d’Elsacountryside–along centuries-old holm-oakalongtheroad isaclearandobviouspoint small OrmicelloRivervalleyandthenclimbuptoMonteravoli:a Continuing ontherighthandofElsa,wedescendinto there havingoncebeenastopping place. place-name makesclearitsrelation totheroad asitderived from hills asfarBaccanella,oncealongtheancientroute whose Elsa atMolinNovo.We thengobackuptowards the ridgeof ley where the river runs parallel to state road 429, and cross the the leftbankofElsaRiver. Infact,wegodownintotheval- Francigenathatrunsthrougholdest partoftheVia thehillson Monterappoli represents thefirstopportunity to linkupwiththe

Time: 1h10’ Empoli 4.3 km

Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola Time: 25’ 1.4 km

Church of Santi Simone e Giuda a Corniola th Time: 1h10’ century. 3.5 km

Monterappoli Time: 10’ 0.7 km

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista Time: 2h45’ 11.1 km

Castelfiorentino - - VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Castelfiorentino: An Important Crossroads Built at the intersection of the Via Francigena and the Via Volter- rana at the point where the latter crossed the Elsa River, Castelf- iorentino was a crossroads of primary importance in the Middle Ages: 14th-century sources speak of the existence of two hospices in the castle (the Hospitale Sancte Crucis and the Hospitale Spiri- tus Sancti), besides the inns, naturally. In the highest area of the oldest part of the town stretching downward on the southern slope of a hill towards the Elsa, a part of the brick walls that surrounded the town has been preserved, together with two churches: the Parish Church of Sant’Ippolito and the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo. Both buildings are among the most significant examples of the large group of Romanesque, brick buildings with a single nave (as we have previously seen in Monterappoli). They were built by workers from Lombardy who were active in lower Valdelsa in the second half of the 12th century. Two other important religious buildings are found outside the ancient walls, on the “Plain of Elsa”: the Gothic church of San Francesco, previously annexed to the homonymous monastery, and the Sanctuary of Santa Verdiana, a simple and pleasing 18th-century Baroque building dedicated to the saint of Castelfiorentino whose body is preserved there.

LAND OF SAINTS

The Hermitage of Santa Verdiana The Sanctuary was a pilgrimage destination especially – but not exclusively – for the populace of the Val d’Elsa because of their 105 special devotion to the saint, represented in many of the paintings collected in the Museum of Sacred Art annexed to the church. From Castelfiorentino, Verdiana degli Attavanti (1178-1242) lived the last thirty-four years of her life in the company of two snakes, in a cell of the hermitage in front of the Oratory of Sant’Antonio Abate, just outside the city’s walls. After her death, Verdiana was buried under the altar of the hermitage where she had lived for so long and over which a church was later erected in her honor. It is not known with certainty when her sanctification was pro- claimed, however it must have happened in the second half of the 13th century, if mention of an “Ecclesia Sanctae Verdianae de Castro florentino” is already made in the early 14th century and if, in the last novella of the fifth day of the Decameron, Boccaccio recalls her as a saint with this expression: “... an old woman who showed like Saint Verdiana, that giveth the serpents to eat”. We also know that during her life, with “quibusdam dominabus” of Castelfiorentino, Saint Verdiana went on a pilgrimage to Santi- ago de Compostela (O. POGNI, Vita di Santa Verdiana d’incognito autore, Empoli 1936). 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 4: CASTELFIORENTINO CERTALDO

Passignano Villa of Cabbiavoli Starting point of LEG 3 Voltignano

Poggio al Cielo Bagnolo Castelﬁorentino Oliveto Castle ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

LOCAL Pian Grande ITINERARY

Belvedere

San Giorsole Ponzano

Fraille

Quercitella

Certaldo LEG 3 to Poggibonsi 106 see page 112

View of the Val d’Elsa countryside WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Villa di Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano Level of technical difficulty: T-E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 160 Distance: km 15.1 Travel time: 4h15’

A tourist-style hike on dirt and asphalt roads. There may be orientation problems in some of the rural stretches where place- name references are missing. The route is characterized by stupendous views of the Val d’Elsa. Note: When the main route enters the road to Lucardo, after 500 m. we find a detour on the right to go on the Local Itinerary, for Castle of Oliveto (Via di Monte Oliveto). In addition, after about 2 km from this detour, we come to the intersection in Piangrande to the Alternative Route that leads to San Martino a Maiano and San Lazzaro, with a stop in Casale. Otherwise, we continue on to Certaldo. The Via Francigena can be reached from Certaldo by another connecting road. There are few points with water and refreshments.

Transport: Castelfiorentino Certaldo To be seen: Castle of Oliveto House of Boccaccio - Certaldo Museum of Sacred Art - Certaldo Museum of the Palazzo Pretorio - Certaldo Canonica Park - Certaldo

107

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Frediano Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Lastra a Signa Empoli Castealfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Siena VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Certaldo Certaldo rose as a castle of the Alberti counts in order to control passage along the Via Francigena. It witnessed a rapid development between the 12th and 13th centuries, thanks to this road that ran at the foot of the hill on which the village rose. Its original urban plan as well as its architectural and environmental characteristics has been preserved almost intact. Following the contours of the hill, the town walls from the 13th and 14th centuries still encircle the medieval town, which is divided longitudinally by a broad street that leads towards the 15th-century Palazzo del Vicario, located on the highest point where the Alberti Castle once stood. A particularly distinctive feature of Certaldo is the use of the locally made red brick in all the castle buildings, including the two churches found here: the rectory of Santi Michele e Jacopo and the Church of San Tommaso. Both have a single-nave, Romanesque plan; a surviving ceramic basin with Arabic epigraphic characters on the cusp of the façade of San Tommaso demonstrates the relationship between Certaldo and Pisa, one apparently favored by the road network. The presence in the castle of a rectory is also significant: the small communities of priests who lived together (i.e. the canons) were devoted to providing hospitality, confirmed in Certaldo, moreover, at the beginning of the 14th century by the existence of two hospices, both dedicated to the Madonna. It must also be re- membered that the rectory kept the remains of the Blessed Giulia Della Rena, whose flow of local pilgrims added to that of the pious travelers going along the Via Francigena to Rome.

Reconstruction of the Praetorian Palace in Certaldo

108 Glimpse ofCertaldo out inthedistance. profile ofCertaldo,thebirthplace ofGiovanniBoccaccio,stands descends tothebottomofElsaValley, whilethemedieval short detour, the15 the low, intensely cultivated hills dotted with farmhouses, we find throughthe left side of state road a landscape of 429. Winding Francigenabutonalongerroute“new” Via thatunwindson After Castelfiorentino, ouritinerarycontinuesfollowingthe turreted ofCabbiavoli,then,witha , RenaissanceVilla

Castelfiorentino Time: 1h10’ 3.6 km th -century castleofOliveto.Theroad then

Villa of Cabbiavoli Time: 50’ 3.2 km

Turreted Manor House of Oliveto Time: 2h15’ 8.3 km

Certaldo 109 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 4 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 4, LOCAL ITINERARY: OLIVETO CASTLE

Passignano Villa of Cabbiavoli

Voltignano

Via Pian Grande Poggio al Cielo Bagnolo Castelﬁorentino Oliveto Castle ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

LOCAL ITINERARY

Petrazzi

Belvedere

MAIN ITINERARY

San Giorsole Ponzano

Fraille

Quercitella

Certaldo

110

WALKING ITINERARY

Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 120 Distance: km 4.8 Travel time: 1h35’

The local itinerary begins at the crossroads of Via Lucardese and Via Pian Gran- de and, for the most part, goes along the dirt roads that lead to Oliveto Castle and, completing a circle in the park of the farm, takes us back to our starting point. It is a hilly route characterized by vantage points over the Val d’Elsa along easily walkable dirt roads. Oliveto Castle

111 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 5: CERTALDO POGGIBONSI

Continuing of LEG 3 ALTERNATIVE see page 106 ROUTE Montignano Santa Maria a Collina Podere San Luigi Santa Maria a Bagnano

Tre Colli San Michele a Semifonte Le Case di Sciano Certaldo Barberino Val d’Elsa Petrognano

Ferrale Pastine

Fonterofoli Sant’Appiano

Ellerone Le Grillaie

Gavignano

112 Poggibonsi

The fertile Val d’Elsa countryside in spring WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano, San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 310 Distance: km 20.9 Travel time: 5h Continuing of LEG 3 ALTERNATIVE see page 106 ROUTE Montignano A tourist-style leg mainly on asphalt roads. There are no problems of orientation Santa Maria a Collina Podere San Luigi or with markings for the itinerary. It is a hilly walk with many panoramic points, Santa Maria a Bagnano from which several places of interest can be visited.

Tre Colli Those who take the alternative route for Casale, return to the main itinerary at San Michele a Semifonte Podere San Luigi. This leg requires good physical training for the walk. Le Case di Sciano Certaldo Barberino Val d’Elsa Transport: Petrognano Certaldo Poggibonsi Ferrale Pastine To be seen: Semifonte Fonterofoli Sant’Appiano Parish Church of Sant’Appiano Fortress of Poggio Imperiale - Poggibonsi Sanctuary of Romituzzo - Poggibonsi

Ellerone Le Grillaie

Gavignano

Poggibonsi 113

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Frediano Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Siena 114 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5 Santa MariainBagnano,whichthere wasa13 mid-Val d’Elsa.Alongtheway, we findfirstofalltheChurch of di SanDonninothatcrosses thehillsonrightsideof From Sciano,wethustakeanancientroute, theso-called Via with historyandart,despiteitsgreater distance. tion andallowsustovisitanumberofVal d’Elsalocationsrich state road 429, we suggest a route that goes in the same direc- Francigena Nova(Poggibonsi)andtoavoidtheheavilytrafficked As weleaveCertaldotoreach thenextstoppingpointonVia Saint Nicholas,whichisalsorecorded asearlythelate13 Sant’Appiano, where againthere wasahospice,namedfor Proceeding along,wereach theancientParishChurch of spedale pauperum),whichisdocumentedasearly1286. Petrognano there wasahospitalitystructure forpilgrims(the also incorporatesapre-existing turreted manorhouse.Alsoin into farmhouses,aswellthefarm-villaofsamenamethat century. 13 Near the chapel, in the village of duces Brunelleschi’s domeofSantaMariadelFiore ina1:8ratio. whichexactlyrepronino” –basedonadesignbySantidiTito, - San Michele a Semifonte–also called the“Cupolaof San Don- it, howeveranoctagonalchapelwaserected onitssitein1597, stood, destroyed in1202by theFlorentines. Nothingremains of we reach theplacewhere theAlberticastleofSemifonteonce ria chance thattheexistenceofahospiceinBagnano(SantaMa- totheroutealternative alongthevalleyflooranditisnotby ling howeverwasalsousedbypilgrimsinmedievaltimesasan in theCertaldoMuseumofSacred Art.Theroad weare trave- Madonna andChildbytheso-called“MasterofBagnano”,now th de Albagnano)wasdocumentedin1322.Continuingalong,

Time: 1h25’ Certaldo -century tower-houses have been preserved, later converted 8.7 km

Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano Time: 35’ 1.7 km

Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte Time: 25’ 1.3 km

Petrognano Petrognano, a number of Time: 1h 3.5 km

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano Time: 1h35’ 5.7 km th

Poggibonsi -century th

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Parish Church of Sant’Appiano The three-aisle church has preserved some of the original Lom- bardizing proto-Romanesque structures, later integrated during the Romanesque period. In front of the façade of the church are four cruciform pillars: these are the remains of a 12th-century octagonal building topped by a small conical dome, clearly built in imitation of the Holy Sepulcher. The capitals carved with motifs that evoke the Eastern Judeo-Christian symbolism and, above all, its iconography and the central plan served to make the small building a sort of reproduction of the Jerusalem model.

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano

115 VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Poggibonsi Poggibonsi was called Marturi before the mid-12th century construction of the castle of Podium Bonitii (that would give its name to the town). It was an important road junction in the Middle Ages as it was the point where the Via Francigena converged with a series of routes leading to the main cities in Tuscany. Because of its importance for the control of the road network, the regional potentates of the time contested it until 1270 when Florence took it over permanently, destroying the castle (which stood where the Medici fortress of Poggio Imperiale is found today) and relocating the town to the plain. Recent archaeological excavations have un- earthed some traces of Podium Bonitii, adding to the sole surviving monument: the so-called Fountain of the Fairies, a large public fountain set on six ogival double-arches. After the castle’s destruc- tion in 1270, the Franciscan, Gothic Basilica of San Lucchese was built that, together with its convent, is located on the high ground facing the castle, whereas nothing remains of the ancient abbey of San Michele a Marturi, a royal monastery probably founded by the Lombards and whose vestiges were re-used to make the 19th century neo-Gothic castle of Badia.

HOSPITALITY

The main stopping point of the Via Francigena in the Val d’Elsa Several accounts confirm the importance of Marturi-Podium

116 Bonitii as a stopping point along the Via Francigena. We need only recall the many inns mentioned in 14th-century sources and the at least four tavernari that appear to have been there in 1221. Also the presence all around Poggibonsi along the streets that converged there of seven canonical churches is important (we have already mentioned how hospitality was among the canons’ tasks). In some of the rectories, moreover, pilgrimage references and symbols are evident: Jerusalem-style crosses (in Cedda and Casaglia), the figures of the Magi, the first pilgrims in the story of salvation (Talciona), and a roadside cross (Cedda). In the 14th century, there were four hospices in Poggibonsi, and two mansions of the Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem, both of which were just outside the village. The one called Santa Croce was at Torri, above Poggibonsi (a tall, 13th-century brick tower still indicates the site), and the other, on the Via Francigena towards Siena, was the mansion of San Giovanni Battista al Ponte, so named because it was located near the crossing of the Staggia River. The latter has retained the original layout of the premises that are distributed around an inner courtyard, on which also the Romanesque church with an apsidal nave opens. The FountainoftheFairiesinPoggibonsi early 14 Maryandfirst hospice, alsonamedfortheVirgin recorded inthe of thevillageisChurch ofSantaMaria,nearwhichwasa Gothic that once stood there. At the foot of the castle stands the neo- king the Elsa plain and preserves some remains ofthefortifications dolingi countsofFucecchio.Itrisesonatuffaceous hillockoverloo Shortly after, wearriveatLinariCastle,whoselords were theCa went alonghalfwayuphillontheleftofElsa and theoriginalone–evenolderthanonhillthat in theVal d’Elsa,bothofthe“new”route onthe floorofthevalley Francigena center ofthetown,mainstoppingplaceVia reconnect withstateroad 429,whichleadsdirectly tothehistorical The nextstretch ofouritinerary leadsustoPoggibonsi,where we Parish Church ofSantoStefano,whileinthehigherpart th

Time: 1h25’ Certaldo century. 8.7 km

Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano Time: 35’ 1.7 km

Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte Time: 25’ 1.3 km

Petrognano Time: 1h 3.5 km

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano . Time: 1h35’ 5.7 km

Poggibonsi - - 117 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: PIAN GRANDE PODERE SAN LUIGI

Inizio VARIANTE “Tappa 4 / 5” Villa di Cabbiavoli

Voltignano

Poggio al Cielo Bagnolo San Martino a Maiano Castelﬁorentino Castello di Oliveto

Pian Grande VARIANTE Belvedere Casale San Lazzaro Ponzano San Giorsole

Fraille Podere San Luigi ITINERARIO Santa Maria a Bagnano PRINCIPALE Tre Colli San Michele a Semifonte Certaldo Le Case di Sciano Barberino Val d’Elsa Petrognano

Ferrale Pastine

Sant’Appiano

Ellerone Le Grillaie

Gavignano

118 Poggibonsi

Traditional agricultural landscape in Valdelsa WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro Level of technical difficulty: T-E Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 190 Distance: km 12,9 Travel time: 3h50’

A tourist-hiking tour on dirt and asphalt roads. The itinerary markings may be unclear because of the lack of place-names and directional signage. 2 km after the turnoff for Oliveto Castle, near Pian Grande, we can leave the main itinerary for an alternative one that leads us to the unspoiled landscape of the Borro di Casale Valley, characterized by olive-groves, cultivated fields, and woods. This is a small, mostly dirt road along the ridge that leads us to San Martino a Maiano. We turn right 2.6 km after San Martino a Maiano towards Casale to see the pinnacles of eroded clay that characterize the “gullies of Ca- sale”. Here we can stop for a break. From Casale, we go back north for about 800 m and take the road to the right for San Gaudenzio a Ruballa. We continue as far as Betto, where we get on an asphalt road heading south. After 500 meters, we turn left and go down towards San Lazzaro. After 1.2 km, we reach an asphalt road and turn left, continuing for about 300 m. We then take the dirt road on the right. Always keeping to the left, after a few hundred meters we return to the main itinerary at Podere San Luigi.

Transport: Castelfiorentino Casale To be seen: Oliveto Castle Gullies at Casale Church of Santa Maria a Casale

119 Castelfiorentino Pian Grande Casale Podere San Luigi Poggibonsi

9.2 km 5.9 km 7 km 13.3 km Time: 2h30’ Time: 1h50’ Time: 2h Time: 4h 120 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE Parish ChurchofSanLazzaro between the11 Romanesque architectural features, presumably from theyears the finestmedieval churches inthe Val d’Elsa,still withitsoriginal the nearby church of San Lazzaro a Lucardo. The latter is one of Maiano andSantaMariaaCasalebothformerlysuffragans of Oliveto, wefindinsuccession,twochurches: SanMartinoa Along this route, whichbeginsa mile afterthe short detourto also admire thepicturesque Casalelandscapewithitsgullies. the town,wecometo outskirtsofthemodern along thesouthern routeFollowing analternative thatalsogoestoCertaldo,but ers asbeingfrom thePoRiver valley. offsets in the series of arches) that allow us to identify the work- origin (smallbarrel-vaulted arches crowning theapse,pilasters, and hasanumberoftechnicaldecorativemotifsLombard divided by a succession of arches rising from simple square pillars parish church ofSanLazzaro aLucardo, where wecan th and12 th centuries.Itconsistsofthree aisles, Near Casale

121 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 6: POGGIBONSI MONTERIGGIONI

Poggibonsi

Starting point og LEG 4

Tresto

Sassa

Castagneto

Megognano Poggiarello

Lecchi

Pini

Staggia

Fontana

LEG 4 to Siena see page 126

La Pineta Serﬁgnano Monteriggioni Casone

Acquaviva junction with the Francigena 122 Strove Certino di Sopra

Badia a Isola WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with the Francigena, Strove Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 390 Distance: km 21 Travel time: 5h25’

Tourist-style leg that mainly covers dirt and asphalt roads and does not present particular orientation problems. Note: In Acquaviva, the itinerary joins the Via Francigena and continues along it passing through Strove and Abbadia a Isola as far as Monteriggioni. Water and refreshments can be found in the villages along the route.

Transport: Poggibonsi Monteriggioni To be seen: Staggia Fortress Castle of Monteriggioni Badia a Isola

123

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Frediano Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Siena 124 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 6 14 state ofSiena,Staggiahaspreserved almost the fullcircuit of the Florentine walledcity, orterramurata,ontheborder withthe Staggia Castle,where weagaincross theriver. Animportant villages ofMegognanoandLecchi,thencontinuingto the mansionofSanGiovanniBattistaalPonte),reaching the tially goesalongtherightsideofStaggiaRiver(crossed at FrancigenaatBadiaaIsola.Thisroutehilly trackoftheVia ini- From continues and connects to the Poggibonsi, our journey 12 church wasrenovated inaRomanesquestylearound themid- sion thatcharacterizedthearea duringtheMiddleAges.The the factthatitrose atthe edgesofthewideswampydepres- gia, theabbeyofSanSalvatore aIsola tookitsnamefrom Founded in1001asafamilymonasterybythelords ofStag- dedication, theheavenlyprotection ofpilgrims. parish church, dedicated to Saint Martin, again recalls, with its ing through thesmallvillage ofStrove, where theRomanesque Siena. Infact,BadiaaIsolaisquitenear:wereach itafterpass- From here, Francigenadirections, followingtheVia wecometo San Luigi. and ing first,thesmallRomanesquechurches ofSanSilvestro The route goesfrom Staggiaalongtheflatvalleybottom, reach- tune hadbeencreated inFrance. the Franzesi,apowerfulFlorentine merchant familywhosefor castle, whichwere subsequently transformedandintegratedby ing withthefortress. Thelatter reused thestructures ofafeudal Volterran derivation. very low relief decorations that recall a pre-Romanesque style of (beginning withthetwinportals,nowpartlyclosed)andornate, however, European also displaysnoticeablenorthern influences and columns,reflecting atypicallyLombard layout.Thebuilding, Inside, itisdividedintothree fasciapillars aisleswithalternating th th century, becoming alargebuildingwithbasilicanplan. - and15 Poggibonsi of Sant’AntonioaiLaghiandthen,IlCasoneVilla Time: 1h40’ 8 km th -century fortificationsthatenclosedthetownend-

Castle of Staggia Church of San Silvestro Time: 45’ 2.4 km

Church of Sant’Antonio ai Laghi Time: 1h10’ 4 km

Strove Time: 1h50’ 6.6 km

Monteriggioni - Near the abbey on the top of a hill overlooking the Via Fran- cigena, the Sienese erected the castle of Monteriggioni in the second decade of the 13th century whose declared purpose was to control traffic on this important artery. The almost circular walls, with fourteen tall, quadrilateral towers that connect the parapet walk, make Monteriggioni one of Tuscany’s most picturesque medieval fortified structures, which suggested to Dante the similarity (Inferno XXXI vv.40-41): “Because as on its circular parapets / Montereggione crowns itself with towers.” Beyond Monteriggioni, the Via Francigena continued towards Siena, following different routes: one now is essentially followed by the “Cassia” state road; the other two routes ran along the left of the Staggia River.

One of the two access gates in Monteriggioni

125 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA

LEG 7: MONTERIGGIONI PIAZZA DUOMO (SIENA)

Continuing of LEG 4 see page 122 Monteriggioni

Petraglia

Gallinaio

Bracciano

Fioreta Borgo Cerbaia

Castagnoli

Castle of the Chiocciola Villa San Martino Poggetto

Fungaia

Cannuccio Fabbrica

Le Querce Casalino Casciano Piazza Duomo (Siena)

126

Monteriggioni WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Borgo di Cerbaia, Castle of the Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 170 Distance: km 20.5 Travel time: 5h55’

A tourist-style leg that follows either asphalt or natural road beds. Thanks to the signs for the Via Francigena, there are no problems finding the route. It is partially shaded by broad-leaved trees. There are few places for water and refreshments. The panoramas are extremely beautiful. Note: The itinerary corresponds to the Via Francigena of Sigeric. The distance covered in this leg requires a certain physical training for the walk.

Transport: Monteriggioni Siena To be seen: Castle of the Chiocciola Piazza Duomo – Siena

127

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Frediano Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Lastra a Signa Empoli Castelfiorentino Certaldo Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Siena Leaving Monteriggioni, we walk south on the Via Francigena of Sigeric along the dirt roads of the Montagnola Senese. This is a series of ridges characterized by the widespread presence of holm-oak woods and the occasional chestnut and beech tree. The area is distinguished by a high concentration of parish churches, villas, monasteries, and castles, something difficult to find elsewhere.

We thus head south to Cerbaia, a now abandoned medieval village. We cross some woods to reach the Castle of the Chioc- ciola. This is a fortification that was built as an outpost of the Republic of Siena, its function was to control the transit of pilgrims arriving from the north along the Via Francigena to Siena as well as to protect Siena from its enemy, Florence. The castle is made up of two buildings: a large crenellated keep and a high cylindrical battlemented tower that ends with a sentry box. The presence inside the tower of a large spiral staircase, precisely the shape of a snail, gave the fortification its name. We then pass through La Villa and descend towards the valley of Pian del Lago, where we take Montemaggio provincial road 101 to the right. Then we continue until Osteriaccia and, before the road enters the woods, we turn left onto a dirt road that leads to Casalino. We cross the road of Pian del Lago, and go on back streets to Convento Vecchio. Here, the place-name refers to the old Char- terhouse of Belriguardo, built in 1340; it was later abandoned by the Carthusians in 1635 because of the unwholesomeness of the rooms.

Continuing east, we cross the ring road to arrive in Acqua Calda on the outskirts of Siena, and then continue to the historical center. From Porta Camollia, the northern entrance into Siena, the Via Francigena enters through the walls. From here, it is easy 128 to find directions to the hospice of Santa Maria della Scala in Piazza Duomo. Casalino Ancient village of Cerbaia Castle of the Villa Le Querce Castle of the Chiocciola Monteriggioni Piazza Duomo (Siena)

4.4 km 1.5 km 0.5 km 6.3 km 2.3 km 5.5 km Time: 1h15’ Time: 25’ Time: 10’ Time: 1h40’ Time: 45’ Time: 1h40’ Above: HospiceofSantaMariadellaScala/Below:Frescoes,hospice 129 www.vieromee.it 3rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 7 130

The city of Siena (from the “Libro del Biadaiolo”, Laurentian Library, Florence)

HOSPITALITY

The Hospices in Siena In Siena, pilgrims could find hospitality in the many inns found in the city, or in the equally numerous religious or secular hospices, among which the “Xenodochium hospitalis et de Canonica Sanctae Mariae” (later Santa Maria della Scala) stood out. It had branches throughout the Sienese territory, especially along the route of the Via Francigena. In front of the cathedral in Piazza Duomo is a large complex of mostly medieval buildings that was the hospital of La Scala and is now a museum. ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION

Lastra a Signa Empoli Rooms Affittacamere Parrocchia San Simone e Giuda Via Guardiana, 9 Via di Corniola, 75 50055 Lastra a Signa Corniola Tel: 055 8722985 50053 Empoli [email protected] Tel: parroco 0571 924658 Cell: 3286689734 Valdirose Affittacamere Via Val di Rose, 37 Queen Zenobia Affittacamere 50055 Lastra a Signa Via Rozzalupi, 21 Tel: 055 8724608 50053 Empoli Fax: 055 8724608 Tel: 0571 72646 [email protected] [email protected] www.valdirose.com www.queenzenobia.it

Viallani Enrico Agriturismo Scarselli Affittacamere Via L. da Vinci, 47/49 - Calcinaia Via Meucci, 2 50055 Lastra a Signa 50053 Empol Tel: 055 8723629 - Fax: 055 8723594 Tel: 0571 960090 [email protected] [email protected] www.agriturismocupoli.it www.scarselliaffittacamere.it

Villa Toscana Affittacamere Castelfiorentino Via di Calcinaia, 105 Il Grande Prato Ostello 50055 Lastra a Signa Via Renai, 11 Tel: 055 8723149 50051 Castelfiorentino Fax: 055 8723149 Tel: 0571 61744 [email protected] Fax: 0571 635875 www.florencehouserental.com [email protected] www.grandeprato.it Zantedeschi Giovanna Affittacamere Via Erta, 27 La casa di Cecchina Affittacamere 50055 Lastra a Signa Via dei Praticelli, 1 Tel: 055 702165 50051 Castelfiorentino Tel: 0571 633408 Lecceto [email protected] Casa le Tuje B&B 131 Via del Fantone, 2 La Castellina Affittacamere Malmantile Via San Lorenzo, 8 50055 Lastra a Signa 50051 Castelfiorentino Tel: 055 8729113 Tel: 0571 64786 [email protected] 0571 684910 www.casaletuje.it Monastero di S. Benedetto Tenuta San Vito Agriturismo Via delle Monache, 17 Via San Vito, 59 50051 Castelfiorentino Malmantile Tel: 0571 631489 50056 Montelupo Fiorentino Tel: 0571 51411 Parrocchia Santa Maria della Marca Fax: 0571 51405 Piazza A Grandi, 38 [email protected] 50051 Castelfiorentino www.san-vito.com Tel: parish priest 0571 634210

Villa Saulina Agriturismo Tagliaferri Grazia Affittacamere Via Maremmana, 11 Via di Cambiano Alto, 12 Malmantile Cambiano 50055 Lastra a Signa 50051 Castelfiorentino Tel: 055 8729511 Tel: 0571 672324 Fax: 055 878065 Fax: 0571 672115 [email protected] www.villasaulina.it Casale MSN Relais Fattoria Bacio Ostello Agriturismo di Fonti Via del Pino, 703 Via S.Martino, 35/46 50052 Certaldo San Martino a Maiano 50052 Certaldo Parrocchia S. Tommaso Apostolo Tel: 0571 669439 - Fax: 0571 669437 Via XX Settembre, 6 www.agricoladifonti.it 50052 Certaldo Tel: parish priest 0571 668054 Agriturismo Tenuta di Sticciano Via di Sticciano, 207 Poggibonsi Fiano Agriturismo La Moraia 50052 Certaldo Talciona, 37 Tel: 0571 669032 53036 Poggibonsi Fax: 0571 669422 www.tenutadisticciano.it B&B Antico Podere Il Bugnolo Canonica, 5 Agriturismo Villa Il Bacìo 53036 Poggibonsi Via del Pino, 703 Il Bacìo Borgo di Talciona Affittacamere 50052 Certaldo Talciona, 18 Tel: 055 609409 53036 Poggibonsi Fax: 055 609409 Tel: 0577 989087 - 347 1987331 www.fattoriabacio.com [email protected] 1.9km North-East of Casale Casa ai Carfini Affittacamere Chiesa di San Gaudenzio a Ruballa Strolla, 5 Via del Pino 53036 Poggibonsi 50052 Certaldo Tel: 347 3217165 Tel: Parrocchia S. Donato a Lucardo, from [email protected] which the church depends 0571 669125 www.casaaicarfini.com a 1,5km a Nord-Est di Casale Garden House B&B Orneto, 6 Chiesa San Martino a Maiano Via S.Martino 53036 Poggibonsi Maiano Tel: 0577 988005 - 347 6151070 50052 Certaldo Migliorni Fernanda Affittacamere 132 Tel: parish priest Don Elio Agostini Piazza Calatafimi, 9 0571 668054 53036 Poggibonsi Tel: 0577 938671 Villa La Poggiolaia Casa Vacanza 0577 980206 Via del Pino Il Bacìo, Sammozzano Poggioagrilli Casa Vacanza 50052 Certaldo Poggiagrilli, 23 Tel: 0571 669695 Gavignano [email protected] 53036 Poggibonsi www.poggiolaia.it [email protected] Apartments 2.9 km North-East of Casale www.poggiagrilli.it

Certaldo Santuario Francescano Casa Chianti Ostello di San Lucchese Casenuove, 77 Via San Lucchese Fiano 53036 Poggibonsi 50052 Certaldo Tel: 0577 936219 0577 930577 Fattoria Bassetto Ostello www.sanlucchese.org Via delle Città, 4 50052 Certaldo Santuario Romituzzo Via Burresi, 17 Il Pianigiano B&B 53036 Poggibonsi Via Piano di Sotto, 89 Tel: 0577 938071 50052 Certaldo www.romituzzo.it Monteriggioni Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio Casa del Clero Sant’Ansano Via Fiorentina, 89 - 53011 Siena Via Montarioso, 35 Tel: 0577 52212 53035 Monteriggioni [email protected] Tel: 0577 596078 www.ostelloguidoriccio.com Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII Casa per ferie S. Maria Assunta Via Montarioso, 35 - 53011 Siena Castello di Monteriggioni Tel: 0577 587011 Piazza Roma, 23 53035 Monteriggioni TOURIST INFORMATION Tel: 0577 304214 Cell: 335 6651581 APT Florence [email protected] Tourist Information Office www.monteriggioniturismo.it Via Cavour 1r Tel: 055 290832 - 055 290833 Parrocchia di Cristo Re [email protected] Piazza Cristo Re, 1 Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30 53035 Monteriggioni a.m.-6.30 p.m., Sundays and holidays Tel: 0577 304214 - Cell: 335 6651581 8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m. [email protected] www.Florenceturismo.it Tourist Information Office Lastra a Signa Villa Montarioso Kiosk in Piazza Stazione Via Montarioso, 35 Via L. Cadorna, 1- 50055 Lastra a Signa 53035 Monteriggioni Tel: 055 8725770 Fax: 055 8727933 Siena [email protected] Accoglienza Santa Luisa Via San Girolamo, 8 UPT Montelupo Fiorentino 53011 Siena via Baccio Sinibaldi, 43 Tel: 0577 284377 Tel: 0571 518993 Fax: 0571 911421 Alma Domus [email protected] Santuario Santa Caterina Via Camporegio, 31 “Le Terre del Rinascimento” 53011 Siena Intermunicipal Tourist Information Office Tel: 0577 44177 Via della Torre, 11 Fax: 0577 47601 50050 Vinci (Florence) Tel 0571 568012 - Fax 0571 567930 133 Caritas Affittacamere www.terredelrinascimento.it Via della Diana, 4 [email protected] 53011 Siena Tourist and Culture Office Municipality Tel: 0577 280643 of Empoli [email protected] P.zza Farinata degli Uberti www.caritas-siena.org 50053 Empoli (Florence) Tel 0571 757729 - Fax 0571757740 Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi [email protected] P.za A. Manzoni, 8 Hours: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thurs- 53011 Siena days and Fridays 9 a.m.-12 p.m.; Tues- Tel: 0577 222633 days and Thursdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.

Casa per ferie Istituto U.R.P. Information Point Municipality Maria de’ Gori of Empoli Via dei Servi, 31 Via G. del Papa 41 53011 Siena 50053 Empoli (Florence) Tel: 0577 221076 Tel 0571 757622 - Fax 055 0571 980033 Fax: 0577 221298 www.comune.empoli.fi.it www.empolese-valdelsa.it Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto [email protected] Via del Lecceto, 6 Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.- 53011 Siena 1.30 p.m./2.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.; Tel: 0577 349393 Saturdays 8 a.m.-1.30 p.m. Tourist Information Office Municipality Castelfiorentino of Castelfiorentino Feast of the Patron Saint, Santa Verdi- c/o Stazione FFSS - Via Ridolfi, 1 ana (first week of June) 50051 Castelfiorentino (Florence) Palio dei Rioni (third Sunday of June) Tel e Fax 0571 629049 www.comune.castelfiorentino.fi.it Certaldo Feast of the Beata Giulia [email protected] (first Sunday of September) Winter hours (from mid-October to 1 April): Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso Every day 10 a.m.-12 p.m./4 p.m.-6 p.m. (3 July) Summer hours: every day 9 a.m.-12.30 p.m./3.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m. Certaldo, Parco di Canonica Tourist Information Office of Certaldo Festa degli arcieri (1 May) Piazza Masini, c/o Stazione FFSS Empoli (In the premises of the former goods yard) Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea 50051 Certaldo (Florence) (30 November) Tel: 0571 656721 - Fax: 0571 627531 Celebration for Corpus Domini www.comune.certaldo.fi.it (14 June) [email protected] Volo del ciuco (June) Hours (from the week before Easter until Festa della Stagione Bona (April) mid-October): 9 a.m.-1 p.m./3.30 p.m.-7 p.m.; (from mid-October to 31 Decem- Lastra a Signa ber): 10 a.m.-12 p.m./3.30 p.m.-5.30 p.m. Feast of Sant’Anna (July) Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino Pro Loco Certaldo (11 November) Via Boccaccio 16 50052 Certaldo (Florence) Lastra a Signa, Loc. Malmantile Tel. 0571 652730 Medieval Festival in Malmantile (May) www.prolococertaldo.it [email protected] Montelupo Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni Summer hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30 Evangelista (27 December) p.m.-7 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings Winter hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30 Montelupo, Loc.Turbone p.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings Bosco in festa (last weekend of October) Tourist Information Poggibonsi Piazza Mazzini, 6 Montespertoli 134 Tel: 0577 935113 - Fax: 0577 982509 Festival of Rificolona (7 September) www.terresiena.it Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea [email protected] (30 November) Itinerant Via Crucis (Easter) Tourist Information Office of Monteriggioni Monteriggioni P.za Roma, 23 Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint, Tel: 0577 304834 - 0577 573213 Maria Vergine (8 September) Fax: 0577304834 Festa dei Rioni e Torneo del Barilotto skype: ufficioturisticomonteriggioni (settembre) [email protected]

APT Siena Poggibonsi Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lucchese Piazza del Campo 56 (28 April) Tel: 0577 280551 - Fax 0577:270676 [email protected] Siena Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May) Events and fairs Palio della Madonna di Provenzano Barberino Val d’Elsa (2 July) Feast of the Patron Saint, San Bartolomeo Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August) (24 August) Santa Lucia (13 December) Barberino Medievale (end of May) Sant’Ansano (1 December) Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte Feast of San Michele Arcangelo (last Sunday in September) 4TH ITINERARY

THE VIA BOLOGNESE the pilgrim route to Rome 135 in the 13th century

Until at least the end of the 12th century, the importance of the road connecting Florence and Bologna that crossed the Mugello was probably modest. The main artery used for going to and from the Po River Valley continued to be the Via Francigena, as evidenced by documentary sources that inevitably mention the route through the Apennine pass of Monte Bardone (Cisa). Yet, as mentioned previously, in the 13th century Florence got hold of the main communication axis with Padania, the Po valley, imposing one of the roads that connected with Bologna as a route over the Apen- nines. Originally, this road was used to reach the upper Santerno valley and only later was it extended to Bologna. Beyond San Piero a Sieve, the road passed through the parishes of Sant’Agata and Cornacchiaia, using the pass in the Mugello known as the Osteria Bruciata, which was later replaced by the Giogo Pass. 4TH ITINERARY THE VIA BOLOGNESE the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13th century

Covigliaio

Firenzuola Futa Pass

Sant’Agata

Sanctuary of Monte Senario

Ceppeto (Monte Morello)

Porta San Gallo (Florence)

136

THE ITINERARY

Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence) End point: Sant’Agata Elevation gain:

1200 Futa Pass Osteria Bruciata Pass 1000 Osteria Bruciata Pass 800 Sanctuary of Monte Senario Buonsollazzo Abbey 600 Trebbio Castle Trebbio

400 Parish Church of Cercina

200 Stibbert Museum Horticultural Garden Porta San Gallo (Florence) 00 WALKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 108.7 Distance (local itineraries): km 16.9 Level of physical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello) Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra, Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi, Parish Church of Cercina Distance: km 15.6 - Page 142 Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario Waypoints: Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno, Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano Distance: km 15 - Page 150 Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve, Gabbiano Distance: km 23 - Page 154 Leg 3 Local Itineraries: Lake of Bilancino – Castle of Cafaggiolo Distance: km 8.5 - Page 158 Scarperia Distance: km 8.4 - Page 158 Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia Distance: km 17.5 - Page 164 Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala Distance: km 13.8 - Page 170 Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass Waypoints: Cà degli Arrighi Distance: km 10.4 - Page 174 Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata 137 Waypoints: Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio Distance: km 13.4 - Page 178

The tour takes place mostly on trails , dirt and gravel roads (55%), and asphalt secondary roads (45%). There are particularly demanding hilly legs (Ceppeto – Monte Senario; Sant’Agata – Firenzuola, Firenzuola – Covigliaio). The route unwinds amidst landscapes of great beauty, with native broadleaf and conifer woods that were planted at the start of the last century. We cross two natural sites of Community Importance: Monte Morello and the Firenzuola Basin. Attention must be paid along the short sections that go along provincial and/or local roads, and the rules of the road Code regarding pedestrian movement on out-of-town roads must be followed Note: Undertaking this itinerary requires orientation skills, experience, and knowledge of mountainous terrain and adequate physical training for the walk, as well as appropriate footwear and equipment. The hiking stretches follow CAI trails almost exclusively, and so they are usually marked; the only exception is between Covigliaio and Passeggere. Water is available in the villages and fountains along the route. From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia Romagna through the Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or continue our journey in a southerly direction that takes us back to Sant’Agata. 4TH ITINERARY THE VIA BOLOGNESE the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13th century

Firenzuola Futa Pass

Sant’Agata

Sanctuary of Monte Senario

Porta San Gallo (Florence)

138

Hospice of San Gallo and the beginning of the Via Bolognese in the Catena Map BIKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 108.7 Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy List of legs: Leg 1: From Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra, Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi, Parish Church of Cercina, Ceppeto, Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno, Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano Distance: km 30.6 Page 142 Leg 2: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve, Gabbiano Distance: km 23 Page 154 Leg 3: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia Distance: km 17.5 Page 164 Leg 4: Firenzuola – Futa Pass Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala, Covigliaio, Cà degli Arrighi Distance: km 24.2 Page 170 Leg 5: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata Waypoints: Passo dell’Osteri Bruciata, Riarsiccio Distance: km 13.4 Page 178

The route alternates between asphalt and gravel roads, with slightly bumpy and irregular stretches for average cyclists (MC class). Except for the section between Passeggere and Covigliaio, the path is usually well-marked and identifiable. The landscape is extremely picturesque, and is characterized by both the typical central Apennine mountain ecosystems, with oak and chestnut forests and 139 planted pine groves, and by the farmed hills of the Mugello valley and the mountain pastures of the Firenzuola basin. Note: The course presents technical difficulties in some parts and requires good physical training. The more technically demanding stretches are found in Leg 5, from the Futa Pass to Osteria Bruciata, and near Camporomano (shortly after the Abbey of Buonsollazzo), above all, for the limited width of the path. Ori- entation problems may arise along Leg 5 between Covigliaio and Passeggere because of the absence of CAI signage. The course is physically very demanding because of the presence of some major climbs (the Monte Senario, Firenzuola, and Futa Pass legs). It is preferable to use a very sturdy mountain- or city-bike on this route. The stretches suitable for racing bikes are only those around Florence and those on the Mugello plain. There are no particular problems associated with the availability of water as there are fountains and towns along the way. From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia Romagna through the Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or to proceed on our journey, which takes us back in a southerly direction to Sant’Agata. 140 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE View withTrebbio Castle,SanPieroaSieve Records Office ofFlorence, Chapters, reg.32 c.71r.) que vadatversusFlorentiametrecteBononiam”(Public qua etperquamterramFirenzuolesitessedebeatunavia the occasionoffoundationFirenzuola, itwasstated,“in two the newroad thatdirectly connected,viatheGiogoPass, crushed around themid-14 old struggleagainsttheseMugellolandownerswhowere finally Scarperia andFirenzuola must beseeninthecontextofage- Apennines. Thefoundationofthetwoterrenuoveortowns possessions were distributedonbothsidesoftheTuscan-Emilian with thepowerfulfeudalhouseofUbaldinifamily, whose rebuilding ofroad sections–couldnotavoidcreating conflicts public toincrease theroute’s efficiency –bridgeconstruction, The successionofmeasures undertakenbytheFlorentine Re- A DisputedRoute terrenuove mentionedabovewasopened.Significantly, on th century–thesameyearsinwhich A Road Towards Europe

The new road connection would become the important transit conduit between northern and central Italy, increasingly used by merchants and travelers but especially by pilgrims going to Rome. The latter, especially those arriving in Italy from the countries of Central Europe, crossed the Alps and arrived in the Po River Valley. From there, they took up the Via Emilia, proceeding to Bologna and then took the road to Florence. Then following the roads to the south that linked the city on the Arno to the Via Francigena (the Strada Sanese and the Via Romana), pilgrims going to Rome rejoined the ancient route to Rome in Siena or Poggibonsi. But the road that connected Florence and Bologna was often also the route used by those Florentine pilgrims who wanted to visit the other two destinations of peregrinationes maiores: Santiago de Compostela and Jerusalem. In their memoirs some Jacobean pilgrims who began their long walk from Florence, indeed described the route across the Apennines leading to Bo- logna from where they reached Borgo San Donnino via the Via Emilia whence the Via Francigena was taken up. And also those who were going to the Holy Land passed by Bologna in order to reach Venice, the city that had become the customary embarca- tion point for the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the 14th century.

Hospice of the Ruota, on the old Via Bolognese

141 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

LEG 1: PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence) CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO)

Continuing of LEG 1 Sanctuary of Monte Senario Ceppeto see page 150 (Monte Morello) Park at Villa Demidoff

Fondi Il Carretello

Pieve di Cercina

Montorsoli

Montorsoli Piazza-Canonica di Cercina Il Casale

Trespiano

Piazza di Careggi

Santa Marta La Pietra

142 Park at the Stibbert Museum Horticultural Garden Starting point of LEG 1 Porta San Gallo (Firenze)

A section along the route WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra, Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi, Parish Church of Cercina Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 560 Distance: km 15.6 Travel time: 5h20’

This leg goes along asphalt and stone-paved roads in an area around Florence. It is a well-marked route that does not present orientation problems. Note: Attention must be paid to road traffic on the stretches of narrow roads encountered. This leg becomes physically demanding at the park of the Stibbert Museum when the climb to Ceppeto starts.

Transport: Florence Montorsoli To be seen: Horticultural Garden Park at Villa La Pietra Park at Villa Demidoff

143

LEGS

The Community of Pellegrino “Pellegrino” was a village located outside the 14th-century walls of Flor- ence that extended on the right of the Via Bolognese just outside Porta San Gallo. It took its name from the existence of numerous accommodation structures there for pilgrims to Rome coming from the north who stopped in Florence on their way. With the early 19th-century administrative reforms, the whole Pellegrino area and the surrounding villages of Careggi, Montughi, Novoli and others were merged into a single Community, which took the name of Pellegrino da Careggi. Later eliminated during the period when Florence was the capital, the community was incorporated into the municipality of Florence. Topo- nymic evidence of its existence remains in the name of a minor road that branches off from the Via Bolognese, called Via del Pellegrino.

Coat-of-arms of the Hospice of Gesù Pellegrino

144 Bolognese atLaPietra whose nameislinkedtothepresence of Montughi,whichtakesusbacktotheVia bert, becomingVia Stib- Emanuele II.Afterashortstretch, rightintoVia weturn the street Trieste, as far as Via Vittorio whichleads us into Via panoramic viewofthecitycanbeenjoyed.We continuealong TrentoOn theothersideofparkisVia , from whichasuperb Toscana, establishedin1852bytheAccademiadeiGeorgofili. from sub-tropical countriesstudiedbytheSocietàdiOrticoltura The HorticulturalGardenofFlorence admire thelarge19 the street andentertheHorticulturalGarden where wecan the pedestrianbridgethere XXSettembre. togetVia We cross Paolo Toscanelli Miltonandcrossing toViale theMugnoneon near the ancient route. From the square, we suggest taking Via whole area ofthecity, ourroute beginsfrom PiazzadellaLibertà, In order togetaround thetraffic problems thatcharacterizethis letti andSpedaluzzoare located. of Saint James of Altopascio) and where today the Santa MariadelSuffragio (linkedtothemansionofOrder the pilgrims’ transit. There were hospices along whichawholesuccessionofbuildingsandplacesrecall also calledSanGallo.Theinitialstretch isbynowacitystreet, The medievalViaBolognesestartedfrom thecitygatethatwas of the1529siegeFlorence. that hadoncestoodthere, andwhichwasdestroyed atthe time Gallo whichtookitsnamefrom theimportantFlorentine hospice azza dellaLibertà,formerlyknownbythenameofPiazzaSan Bolognese is Pi- along the Via The starting point of our journey Time: 10’ 0.5 km Porta San Gallo (Florence)

Time: 40’ Horticultural Garden 1.5 km Stibbert Museum and Park th Time: 15’ 0.9 km -century hothousethatsheltered theplants

La Pietra Time: 2h 6.5 km

Montorsoli Time: 1h05’ 3.5 km Parish Church of Cercina near theChurch of Time: 25’ 1.1 km Castiglioni Villas Spal- Villas Time: 45’ 1.6 km

Oratory of Sant’Iacopo a Ceppeto 145 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1 146 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1 The ParkatVillaLaPietra La Pietra,therewitha15 isalargetabernacle a milestonethatindicatedthefirstmilefrom PortaSanGallo.In we reach Castiglioni,where there isavillabuilton13 From theCercina parishchurch, wefollowasecondaryroad until ancient and precious wooden statue of the Madonna kept there. destination inthepastbecauseofpopularvenerationforan Church ofSant’Andrea inCercina, whichwasapilgrimage Canonica di Cercina and come to the Romanesque Parish start toclimbthehillyslopesofMonteMorello. We passthrough lina thatrunstotherightofstream ofthesamenameand that leadsustoPiazzadiCareggi. From here, Terzol wetakeVia - road 65, and enter a secondary road della Pietra) on the left (Via the ancientroute ofViaBolognese thattodayfollowsthestate To avoidthedangersrelated totraffic, weabandonatLaPietra ing withasinglerectangular nave. find thehospiceofRuota,asmalllate-Romanesquebuild- that were alittlefurtheron,inthevillageofLaLastrawhere we two pilgrims’hospices that depictstheMadonnaenthroned surrounded by saintsand of Via deiColliAlti. of Via Oratory of San Jacopo a Ceppeto after traveling a short stretch dei ColliAltipassingneartheforest station.We nowreach the suffragan oftheparishchurch. We thencontinuetowards Via ry towerhouse,andachurch dedicatedtoSt.Michael,formerly Time: 10’ 0.5 km Porta San Gallo (Florence)

Time: 40’ Horticultural Garden 1.5 km Stibbert Museum and Park Time: 15’ 0.9 km dedicated toSt.NicholasandStJerome

La Pietra Time: 2h 6.5 km

Montorsoli Time: 1h05’ 3.5 km Parish Church of Cercina Time: 25’ th 1.1 km

Castiglioni -century fresco Time: 45’ 1.6 km th -centu- Oratory of Sant’Iacopo a Ceppeto DEVOTION

Cercina, A Place Chosen by Mary According to tradition, it was believed that the image of the Ma- donna of Cercina was left at the church by a cardinal heading to France in 1285. An ancient account recounts that the sacred image (a 13th-century, polychrome wooden statue), was loaded on a mule, along with other household goods, and that once it had arrived in the parish of Cercina “on the road that leads to Bolo- gna, at Montorsoli, the mule stopped as if riveted [to the spot], in such a way that even the violence of all the carters could not move it… the cardinal and his whole court followed the mule in astonishment, until it stopped at the church” (V. FINESCHI, Notizie istoriche riguardanti l’antica e miracolosa figura di Maria Vergine situata nella chiesa di Sant’Andrea a Cercina, Firenze 1795, p.62). The site was recognized as the one chosen by Mary as her shelter and “as soon as [the statue was] unloaded, the mule fell to the ground as if in the act of worship”. From that time on, there was such an uninterrupted pilgrimage to the wooden statue of the Madonna that in 1435 a high prelate (Cardinal Lodovico di Varam- bona) issued a Breve conceding special indulgences to all visitors.

The Parish Church of Cercina

147 VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Park at Villa Demidoff Along the Via Bolognese pilgrim route, climbing towards Monte Morello, we reach Via dei Colli Alti, next to the forest station. From here, we turn right and go east on Via dei Colli Alti. After 3 km, we come to the village of Pratolino where we can visit the historical park of Villa Demidoff. In 1568 Francesco I de’ Medici acquired the Pratolino holding and charged Buontalenti with the task of making it a residence for his second wife Bianca Cappello. The villa was located in the middle of a 40-hectare park in which there were complex water jets with automata, water tricks, and monumental fountains embellished by the presence of ancient statues, mother of pearl, semi-precious stones and marbles. Of these, only the statue of the Colossus of the Apennines by Giam- bologna remains, immersed in the park where a rich and varied flora can be enjoyed. The park offers numerous cultural and mu- sical activities, including RURALIA, an event in May that evokes an agricultural fair from the last century.

The Colossus of the Apennines by Giambologna, the park at Villa Demidoff

148 View towardsCercinafromCastiglione 149 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

LEG 2: CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO) SANTUARIO DEL MONTE SENARIO

Sanctuary Carzola di Sotto of Monte Via Bolognese Il Trebbio Senario

Causelle Bivigliano

Marcherello

Viliani

Ferraglia Paterno

Le Case

Pratello Fontebuona

Pescina Monte Morello

Park at Villa Demidoff Ceppeto 150 Continuing of LEG 1 see page 142

View of the Mugello countryside WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno, Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Difficult Climb: m 700 Distance: km 15 Travel time: 5h15’

This leg goes along on both small asphalt roads and on forest roads with a gravel road bed. The path is well-marked also within the Monte Morello reserve. The leg proceeds within the Monte Morello Site of Community Importance (SCI), through a landscape characterized by turkey and downy oak woods planted at the beginning of last century. In the distance, the woods of Arizona cypress, Atlas cedar, and Austrian, Corsican, and Turkish pine are also visible, which were planted during the same period. Picturesque waterfalls are present a short distance from the village of Paterno. Note: This is one of the most challenging legs, from a physical point of view, along the route. Attention should be paid to road traffic along the provincial and regional roads.

Transport: Monte Senario To be seen: Park at Villa Demidoff Monte Morello, Site of Community Importance Convent of Monte Senario

151

LEGS

Monte Morello A Site of Community Importance (SCI), Monte Morello covers over 4000 hectares. Of scenic and recreational significance, the remaining open areas play a strategic role in providing nesting and wintering places for endangered bird species. Today the mountain enjoys a rich fauna composed of wild boar, fox, deer, hare, roe deer, pheasant and other animals – vipers are not un- common – with a thick vegetation of pine, oak, cypress and silver fir. Of importance is also the presence of such amphibians as the Spectacled Salamander. There are numerous water springs (Seppi, Ciliegio, etc.), although some have disappeared or their capacity has been reduced because of the excavations carried out under the mountain for the high-speed trains. In addition, there has been the gradual desiccation of many black pine woods, an effect of the climatic trends in recent years coupled with the ex- ponential spread of bark beetles, the vectors of blue stain fungus (Leptographium sp.) that have led to their foliage turning red until completely dehydrated. Monte Morello remains the Florentines’ “mountain” as they go there to walk, hike and picnic in the summer or to look for mush- rooms and wild asparagus.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

The Convent of Monte Senario 152 At the top of Monte Senario is the convent of the Order of the Servants of Mary. The Servite congregation came into existence here in 1233, on the initiative of seven noble Florentines (the “seven founding brothers”) who retreated to the mount in prayer. From their coenobitic experience, the Servants of Mary – as the followers of the new order were called – were born and they had considerable success in 13th-century Tuscan and Italian socie- ty. The original convent grew over the years and was completely rebuilt in the late 16th century at the behest of Grand Duke Fer- dinando I. Subsequently, it was further modified until it assumed its current shape. Along the quiet paths scattered about the thick pine forest surrounding the monastery and covering the summit of Monte Senario are numerous signs of the order’s religious history, all within walking distance. There are the cells, caves and chapels dedicated to various saints and blessed souls belonging to the Servite congregation. From the panoramic terrace that surrounds the church and the monastic premises, we can enjoy a magnificent view over the Arno valley and the Mugello. Convent ofMonteSenario a foot path begins that leads to the sanctuary of the same name. Bivigliano, whichstretches atthefootofMonteSenario,where through thevillageofSommavillauntilwearrivein southerly direction. Then,wetaketheroad ontheleft andpass come tothestateroad thatwefollowforashortstretch ina We goes tothesmallvillageofPaterno. continueandwesoon path that leads us – passing through Pescina – to the road that From theOratoryofSanJacopoinCeppeto,wefollowaCAI

Oratory of Sant’Iacopo

Time: 1h20’ a Ceppeto 4.7 km

Paterno Time: 50’ 2.6 km

Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese Time: 1h50’ 4.8 km

Bivigliano Time: 1h15’ 2.9 km

Sanctuary of Monte Senario 153 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

LEG 3: SANCTUARY OF MONTE SENARIO SANT’AGATA

Sant’Agata

Cafaccio

Santa Maria Gabbiano LOCAL ITINERARY Scarperia

Mogognano

LOCAL ITINERARY Lake Bilancino Castle of Cafaggiolo

San Piero a Sieve

Castle of Trebbio Ischieti

Campomigliaio Tagliaferro

Abbey of Buonsollazzo

Vaglia 154 Il Trebbio Sanctuary Starting point of Monte of LEG 2 Senario

Towards the Mugello WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Castle of Trebbio, San Piero a Sieve, Gabbiano Level of technical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 290 Distance: km 23 Travel time: 6h25’

The route on dirt roads and paths is well-marked, except near Camporomano, shortly after Buonsollazzo Abbey, where the CAI signs affixed to tree trunks are missing. This leg requires orientation skills and good physical training. Note: Once in Trebbio, you can take the local route for Lake Bilancino and Castle of Cafaggiolo or remain on the main road and take the dirt track to the right following the CAI 19 signs as far as Ischieti, which is found at the end of the first local itinerary. Once in San Piero a Sieve, however, you can turn right in Via Calimara from Piazza della Colonna, and take the second local itinerary that leads to Scarperia. After the Abbey of Buonsollazzo, heading down towards Camporomano, cyclists are advised to proceed on foot to avoid falls.

Transport: Monte Senario Scarperia Sant’Agata To be seen: Castle of Trebbio Medicean Fortress of San Martino – San Piero a Sieve Convent of Bosco ai Frati

155

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata Firenzuola Covigliaio Futa Pass Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata Firenzuola Covigliaio Futa Pass Sant’Agata 156 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2 the 18 congregation andthentotheTrappist monks,towhomweowe him totheChristianlife.TheabbeylaterpassedaCistercian Toscana, in the place where he had the vision that converted to havebeenbuiltbefore theyear1000byMarchese Ugodi ary andwepassbytheAbbeyofBuonsollazzo,whichissaid From thesanctuaryofMonteSenario, we continue our itiner the roof,countries. asinthehallenkirchennorthern by tallcircular pillarsthatdirectly supportthewoodenframeof beautiful Romanesque church with a nave and two aisles divided of Gabbiano andreturntothemainitinerarythatleadsvillage ai Fratiwithitswoodencrucifixfrom theschoolofDonatello)and 16 the home oftheMedici.We continue onasfarIschietiskirting Uccellare andSpugnole,leadsto Trebbio, theancestral Castle We cross theViaBologneseandtakeroad that,by wayof dedicated toSaintLawrence, recorded since1221. having manyinnsandhostelsinadditiontoapilgrims’hospice come tothestateroad atTagliaferro , avillageremembered as After passingtheabbey, wecontinuealongthepathuntil the 14 Then from Scarperiawepass through Magognano(nearwhichis Firenzuola Valley. andtheSanterno Osteria BruciataPassand,albeitviaalongerroute, alsoreaches ceded thatoftheGiogoPassandcrossed theApenninesat instead, broadly corresponds to the road to Bologna, which pre - the Northandwere headed toRome.Theroute thatwesuggest, road whichforcenturieswould channelpilgrimswhocamefrom by theFlorentine Republic in 1332precisely becauseofthenew ley andreached Firenzuola , theother“terranuova”founded Val503 followsthesamecourse)wentdownintoSanterno - Beyond theGiogoPass,newroad (thepresent stateroad Scarperia. biano-Sant’Agata or by way of the local itinerary that leads to Leaving thetownofSanPiero, wecancontinuebywayofGab- San Piero aSieve. th Sant’Agata, builtaround thehomonymousparishchurch, a centurybyGrandDukeCosimoI,onthehilloverlooking Sanctuary of Monte Senario Fortress ofSanMartino , builtinthesecondhalfof Time: 55’ 3.6 km th th Bosco -century FranciscanconventofSanBonaventurainBosco -century layoutofthecomplex.

Buonsollazzo Abbey Time: 1h05’ 4.3 km

Tagliaferro Time: 1h 2.7 km

Castle of Trebbio Time: 45’ 2.8 km

Fortress of San Martino Time: 15’

1 km San Piero a Sieve Time: 2h25’ 8.6 km

Sant’Agata - VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

San Piero a Sieve San Piero a Sieve was the first major town encountered on this road. An ancient market town recorded as early as the 12th century, San Piero rose at the point where the road crossed the Sieve River and, like all river-crossing settlements, had many commercial (inns, hotels) and charitable accommodation structures. Among the latter were the hospice of San Piero a Sieve, which is first recorded in 1184 and the hospice of San Jacopo a Novoli, documented in 1335. The first is now the oratory of the brotherhood placed before the Parish Church of San Piero a Sieve on whose counter-façade is an inscription that refers to the reconstruction of the hospice carried out in 1275 by a Magister Panicia commissioned by Gianibuonus.

IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS

Notes along the Via Bolognese An anonymous Florentine pilgrim, who went on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 1477, thus describes the first part of the Via Bolognese: “...at first we left Florence, a beautiful and noble City, well populated and full of artists; the first waypoint is five miles away in Ucciellatoio. Outside the aforementioned City, there is an inn called the Ucciellatoio. From there, one reaches Vaglia, which has many houses and two inns. San Piero a Sieve, many houses and three inns”.

157

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Castle of Trebbio Built around the mid-15th century by Michelozzo at the behest of Cosimo de’ Medici, mainly for agricultural purposes, it was used as a hunting residence by the Medici. A 15th-century Medici coat- of-arms is visible at one of the entrances and there is an ancient well in the courtyard. The current garden is the result of several modifications: the only element remaining from the Renaissance is the grape-vine pergola. A recent garden – partly formal, with boxwood and roses, and partly informal, with various species of trees and shrubs and a rock garden – surrounds the castle and, in turn, is surrounded by thick rows of cypress. 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

Leg 3, Local Itineraries: LAKE BILANCINO CAFAGGIOLO SCARPERIA

Sant’Agata

Cafaccio

Santa Maria Gabbiano Scarperia

Mogognano

LOCAL Lake Bilancino Castle of Cafaggiolo ITINERARY

LOCAL ITINERARY San Piero a Sieve

Castle of Trebbio Ischieti Casenuove

Campomigliaio Tagliaferro

MAIN ITINERARY

Abbey of Buonsollazzo

Vaglia Sanctuary 158 Il Trebbio of Monte Senario

Castle of Cafaggiolo, San Piero a Sieve WALKING ITINERARY

Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Descent: m 160 Distance: km 8.5 Travel time: 2h05’

The itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part on asphalt roads. The route is well marked. The tour begins in Trebbio and then heads northwards towards San Giovanni. Take the right fork a little after a tabernacle at the curve. Continue on Via Treb- bio until it intersects with the asphalted Via San Giovanni in Petroio. We take the right branch of Via San Giovanni in Petroio and we continue until the junction with Via G. Nencini. We then head east along the lake, passing through a tunnel with a bike path until we reach Futa state road 65. We turn right towards Cafaggiolo. Then we proceed on SR (regional road) 65 towards San Piero a Sieve until we reach Via Ischieti where we take up the main itinerary again.

To be seen: Lake Bilancino The exterior of the castle of Cafaggiolo

Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 60 Distance: km 8.4 Travel time: 2h15’ 159 Also this itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part on asphalt roads with a well-marked route. The local itinerary to Scarperia starts from San Piero a Sieve heading north along SP (provincial road) 503. After the bridge over the Sieve River, we turn right along SP 551 which we follow for about 700 m. Then we turn left into Via di Fagna, continuing until we come to the homonymous church. From there, we continue, heading north as far as the junction with SP 503. Turn right and enter the village of Scarperia. At the crossroads with Via dell’Azzurro, turn left and go in the direction of Mogognano, skirting the Golf Club dei Medici as far as the intersection with Via di Gabbiano where we go north to re-join the main itinerary.

Transport: Scarperia San Piero a Sieve To be seen: Parish Church of Fagna Village of Scarperia Palazzo dei Vicari, Museum of Cutting Tools (Scarperia) TH 160 4 ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries www.vieromee.it Modern pilgrimsalongtheway NATURE AND LANDSCAPE

Lake Bilancino The itinerary from Trebbio Castle heads northwest, passing from Lake Bilancino near the beaches of Nebbiaia and Sodera, to then reconnect with the main itinerary in front of Villa Cafaggiolo. Lake Bilancino is a reservoir of over five square kilometers with about a 30-km perimeter, formed by a dam whose purpose is to reduce the risk of flooding (especially for Florence) and to ensure a supply of drinking water for the valley. The reservoir also produces electricity. Additionally, in the broad area surrounding the lake, tourism has been promoted thanks to the recreational activities offered by the lake, bathing establishment services, sailing, ca- noeing, windsurfing, hiking, and hospitality (restaurants, hotels, and camping sites).

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Cafaggiolo After passing near Lake Bilancino in the direction of San Piero a Sieve, we come to the Medicean villa or castle of Cafaggiolo, which is among those most closely tied to the history of the Med- ici family. It was a favorite of Lorenzo the Magnificent who went there to hunt and it is where he composed the poem “Nencia da Barberino”, dedicated to a young peasant woman from the area. The building had belonged to the family since the middle of the 14th century, and was renovated after 1428 by Michelozzo who had been commissioned by Cosimo the Elder. In 1864 it was sold to the Borghese princes who made radical changes to it. 161

Castello di Cafaggiolo VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Scarperia Scarperia’s original name was Castel Santo Barnaba; it was one of the first“terrenuove” , or new cities, created by the Florentine Republic at the beginning of the 14th century so as to overcome the last feudal resistance in the Mugello and, at the same time, to impose the new route of the Via per Bologna that passed through the Giogo Pass. Inside this “terranuova” several inns were built– a good twelve were counted at the end of the 14th century – and two hospices at the border of the town (the hospice of Sopra and the hospice of Sotto) as well as that of the Compagnia della Vergine.

Palazzo Pretorio in Scarperia

162 Centuries-old chestnuttree 163 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

Leg 4: SANT’AGATA FIRENZUOLA

Firenzuola

Cornacchiaia

Cerro

Pian de Grilli Roncopiano

Osteria Bruciata Pass

Riarsiccio

Marcoiano

164

Campisano

Sant’Agata Starting point of LEG 3

A stretch along the way WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia Level of technical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy Climb: m 670 Distance: km 17.5 Travel time: 5h45’

The leg goes along dirt roads and trails. The itinerary is generally well-marked, although in some places, the presence of multiple signs may make orientation difficult. The first part of the leg is characterized by a landscape of mixed broadleaf woods that continue as far as the beech tree-lined meadows of the Osteria Bruciata Pass. We continue along the ridges in the beech and chestnut woods that alternate with gullies and shrubby areas dominated by broom and juniper. Note: The leg requires good physical training, especially as regards climbs. There is a short detour from the main itinerary near Faeto (Parish church of Cornacchiaia) to visit the small village of Cornacchiaia.

Transport: Scarperia Firenzuola Sant’Agata Cornacchiaia To be seen: Osteria Bruciata Pass Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista Decollato a Cornacchiaia Firenzuola Basin, Site of Community Importance Fiorenzuola Fortress Firenzuola Museum of Pietra Serena

165

LEGS

The Firenzuola Basin The Firenzuola Basin is one of the most important areas at a regional level for the conservation of many endangered species of birds linked to the traditional agricultural environments (the Orto- lan Bunting, Tawny Pipit, and Quail). Many species of birds of prey hunt in this area and some of them nest nearby. There are some watercourses with low shrubs along the banks mainly consisting of Hippophae rhamnoides, sub-species fluviatilis, which are home to native fish species typical of unpolluted environments. Of note among the mammals are the wolf, the wild boar, and the red squirrel, while among invertebrates, the Callimorpha quadripunc- taria Moth. This is an area based upon traditional agriculture and rearing of sheep, whose preservation is dependent on the promotion of adequate land management plans and policies.

Firenzuola Basin

166 the architectural structure oftheparishchurch ofSant’Agata. Church ofSanGiovanni Battista,whichnotbychancerecalls grew uparound aruralchurch too:theRomanesqueParish town of towards Valley, thebottomof Santerno passingthrough the can movement.Aftercrossing thepass,CAItrailcontinues nello de’Galli, two influential figures, both related to the Francis- road toFlorencebyBerlinghiero diGirolamo andhispartnerMan - nothing remains ofittoday, itwasbuiltin1221onthepublic stood the hospice of begins thattakesustotheOsteriaBruciataPass,nearwhich Fromtake theroad Sant’Agata,we whereMontepoli to aCAItrail Parish ChurchofSant’Agata

Sant’Agata , which , which Faeto andarrivingin the village of Cornacchiaia Time: 3h30’ 8.6 km . Although San Niccolò a Fontemanzina. Although Osteria Bruciata Pass San Niccolò in Fontemanzina Time: 1h 4 km

Cornacchiaia Time: 1h15’ 4.9 km

Firenzuola 167 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4 168 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4 modest, accommodationstructures couldbefound. in allthevillagesonroad toBolognawhere some, albeit pauperum were inpropeterramdeFirenzuola–asmore orless Other charitablestructures adhospitalitatemetreceptionem Parish ChurchofSanGiovanniBattistainCornacchiaia the Firenzuola, a village that was full of inns and hostels and had From proceeding wereach Cornacchiaia, alongtheSanterno, two hospices Sant’Agata Time: 3h30’ 8.6 km of

Osteria Bruciata Pass San Giacomo and of San Francesco. San Niccolò in Fontemanzina Time: 1h 4 km

Cornacchiaia Time: 1h15’ 4.9 km

Firenzuola Porta Bolognese in Firenzuola

169 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

Leg 5: FIRENZUOLA COVIGLIAIO

Pietramala

La Castellaccia

La Sela

La Badia

Pagliana Le Valli Covigliaio

LEG 4 to Futa Pass Cagliabati see page 174

Riccianico Firenzuola Starting point of LEG 4

Sassiglioni Capanna

170

A stretch along the itinerary WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala Level of technical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 600 Distance: km 13.8 Travel time: 5h

The leg goes along dirt roads and paths. The route is well marked. Note: Although not long, in this leg there are climbs that require good physical training. In Pietramala, it is possible to join up again with the paths that lead to Emilia Romagna, or to continue along our itinerary towards the Futa Pass.

Transport: Firenzuola Pietramala

171

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Leg 7 Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata Firenzuola Covigliaio Futa Pass Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata Firenzuola Covigliaio Futa Pass Sant’Agata TH 172 4 ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 5 www.vieromee.it CAI signalongtheroute ney. Ittherefore takesustoCovigliaio,avillageonstateroad 65. along adifferent route from theoneusedonoutward jour Instead, ouritinerarytakesusbacktoSant’AgatadiMugello,but Predamale (Pietramala)”. Florenciam aterraSanctiRofilli(SaintRuffillo)usqueadterram tis magistrisComunisBononie“(1289)as“strataperquamitur centuries, theroute isthe oneidentifiedinthe“Liberdestra- towards then goesdownintothevalleyofSavenariverandheads Beyond Pietramala,theroad continuestowards RadicosaPass, documented since1256. the existenceofahospicededicatedtoSanLorenzo hasbeen nificant!), we reach thestate road inPietramala,aplacewhere Boschetto andBaccanella(theplacenameofthelatterissig- small pilgrims’hospice.Thenpassingthrough thevillagesof route,an internal itreaches LeValli, previously thesiteofa Our route avoidsstateroad 503andfrom Firenzuola, along

Firenzuola Bologna. Havingremained almost unchangedfor Time: 1h50’ 4.3 km

Le Valli Time: 1h30’ 4.5 km

Pietramala Time: 1h40’ 5 km

Covigliaio - VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Pietramala The border between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal States was near Pietramala: the “terra” of Pietramala was the border customs seat and a stopping point for travelers. All 18th- and 19th-century guides for travelers mention the pseu- do-volcanic phenomena in the area, particularly the emissions of methane and the gush of oil. The first are described as follows: “Just a half mile from Pietramala ... a small, active Volcano is seen. A clear flame rises from the surface of the earth that spans a space of 12 to 15 feet on all sides. When the weather is rainy, or threatening to storm, the flame becomes more active”. Regarding the oil, it is said that “It is also to be observed, half a league away from Pietramala, a cold water spring, called Acqua Baja, which ignites if one approaches with a torch” (“Itinerario Italiano che contiene la descrizione dei viaggi per le strade più frequentate”, Firenze 1807, pp.21 and 22).

A stretch along the crest of the Apennines

173 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

Leg 6 COVIGLIAIO FUTA PASS

Cà di Patisci

Cà degli Arrighi Covigliaio

Belvedere Casellina Continuing of LEG 4 Fratte see page 170

Selva

Traversa

L’Erede

Monteritroni

174 Futa Pass

Stretch along the itinerary WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Cà degli Arrighi Level of technical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult Climb: m 440 Distance: km 10.4 Travel time: 3h45’

This leg goes exclusively on trails. The route is well marked, with the exception of the stretch between Covigliaio and Passaggeri where good orientation skills are necessary and of which a particular description is given. This leg starts with a steep climb on a dirt road towards Colle di Covigliaio. After about 500 m., we leave the road to enter a field where we easily go over a small fence. We continue climbing until we reach CAI Bo 019 and the CAI-Bo917- Sentiero degli Dei or trail of the Gods. At just over 1000 meters a.s.l., we have two alternative routes. The first heads south and is easier and less tiring; it is reached by turning left and following the signs for the SOFT11 route. The second goes north and is reached by turning right (CAI Bo 019/ Sentiero degli Dei CAI Bo-917 trails) but is not well-marked. The latter descends to the Savena river and then climbs again towards Passeggeri-Ca’ degli Arrighi. Note: Although it is not a long leg, the climbs require proper physical training.

Transport: Pietramala (also towards Emilia Romagna) Futa Pass To be seen: Roman stone-paving Futa Pass The Gothic Line – Futa Pass

175

LEGS

Via Flaminia Minor Approximately 3 kms north of the Futa Pass, a long, straight stretch of a perfectly preserved stone-paved Roman road has been brought to light. Located at the foot of Monte Poggione, it is related to the road called by scholars Flaminia Minor or Flaminia Militare, a road that was opened in 187 B.C. by Consul Flaminius to connect Bononia [Bologna] with Arretium [Arezzo], presumably passing by Fiesole. The find is part of a series of archeological discoveries that have allowed the ancient road’s route to be reconstructed; it is to be considered, somewhat, the forerunner of the medieval road that connected Florence and Bologna, although its route was, at least to some extent, different, even if they both ran beyond the Apen- nine ridge into the Savena Valley.

Roman paving of the Via Flaminia Minor

176 Signs alongtheroute route through BarberinodiMugello. by abandoningtheScarperia-Firenzuola direction infavorof the timesandforcedin modern achangeontheroute toBologna Pass, thepassinApenninesthatreplaced theGiogoPass From thesmalltownofCovigliaio,weheadtowards theFuta

Covigliaio Time: 1h45’ 4.7 km

Cà degli Arrighi Time: 2h 5.7 km

Futa Pass 177 www.vieromee.it 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 6 4TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE

Leg 7 Futa Pass SANT’AGATA

Starting point of LEG5

Futa Pass

Roncopiano

Osteria Bruciata Pass

Castello

Riarsiccio

Marcoiano

Campisano

Sant’Agata 178

Signs along the route WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio Level of technical difficulty: E Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult Climb: m 375 Distance: km 13.4 Travel time: 4h15’

The leg goes almost exclusively along trails and partly on dirt roads. The route is well identified thanks to CAI signs. Note: The stretch from the Osteria Bruciata Pass to Sant’Agata retraces back- wards the route of Leg 4. We follow a short section of SP 116 in a southerly direction and then get on the CAI path 00/GEA. We walk for about 5 km in the direction of the Osteria Bruciata Pass, crossing Monte Gazzaro and going past the junction for Paracchia. From the Osteria Bruciata Pass, we head south, following the signs for the CAI paths 46A and SoFT 13 in the direction of Monte Linari and Monte Alto. After approximately 3.5 km along the ridge, we begin the descent towards Montepoli and Sant’Agata.

Transport: Futa Pass Scarperia Sant’Agata

179

LEGS

Futa Pass Time: 1h45’ 4.8 km

Osteria Bruciata Pass Time: 1h 2.8 km th -century road to Bologna that

Riarsiccio Sant’Agata retraces, Time: 1h30’ 5.8 km

Sant’Agata HOSPITALITY

Osteria Bruciata From a geographical point of view, the best place to cross the Apennine ridge between Sant’Agata and Cornacchiaia is the Os- teria Bruciata Pass. It is obvious that the original road between Bologna and Florence, that naturally was not a carriageable road, passed from there. Already at the time of the first Jubilee, in fact, a Bolognese “provision “ from 19 October 1300 described the road as rundown and with evidence of frequent landslides (“full of gullies and very devastated”), for which the City of Bologna set out to perform road restoration works that would facilitate the passage of pilgrims. It is thanks to Daniele Sterpos’s discovery of a 1585 document that we have a sketch which depicts a small hospice – abandoned but still standing – situated with a road passing in front, right at the pass (D. Sterpos, Comunicazioni stradali attraverso i tempi. Bologna-Firenze, Novara 1961, p.44).

Towards Osteria Bruciata

181 ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION

Ceppeto Monte Morello Il Colle B&B Casa Fontecchio B&B Via Montaccianico, 52 Via delle Palaie, 13 Sant’Agata Ceppeto 50038 Scarperia 50019 Sesto Fiorentino Tel: 055 8406752 Tel: 055495137 Fax: 055 8406752 Fax: 055495137 Cell: 333 4507718 Cell: 3382991304 [email protected]

Meini Roberta Affittacamere Parrocchia Sant’Agata Viale Pescetti, 9 Piazza della Libertà, 1 Ceppeto Sant’Agata 50019 Sesto Fiorentino 50038 Scarperia Tel: 055 402066 - Fax: 055 402066 Tel: parish priest 055 8406926

Montemorello Albergo Pieve S. Agata Foresteria della Canonica Via Miramonti, 40 – 42 Via della Pieve, 3 Ceppeto Sant’Agata 50019 Sesto Fiorentino 50038 Scarperia Tel: 055 402064 Tel: 055 8406926 Monte Senario Cornacchiaia Campeggio Poggio degli Uccellini Azienda agrituristico/venatoria Rovignale Via Poggio Uccellini, 1050 Via Castro Rovignale, 492/A Bivigliano Campiglia 50030 Vaglia 50033 Firenzuola Tel: 055 406725 - Fax: 055 406725 Tel: 055 8149297 [email protected] Cell. 3332429344 www.poggiouccellini.it 0.9 km from Faeto - Cornacchiaia One hour distance on foot from Monte Senario Le Tarelle Agriturismo Casa di Spritualità Suore Serve di Maria Via Castro Futa, 699/A Addolorata Roncopiano Via della Fittaccia, 153 50033 Firenzuola Tel: 055 813523 - Fax: 055813523 Bivigliano Cell: 339 1586047 50030 Vaglia [email protected] 182 Tel: 055 406718 A half-hour walk Firenzuola Convento di Monte Senario Albergo Acconci Via di Monte Senario, 34 Piazza Agnolo, 18 Bivigliano 50033 Firenzuola 50030 Vaglia Tel. 055 819053 - Fax 055 8199203 Tel: parish priest 055 406441 [email protected] 055 406442 www.acconci.it

La Bruna Albergo Albergo Berti Via della Fittaccia, 5 Via Traversa, 351 Bivigliano 50033 Firenzuola 50030 Vaglia Tel: 055815265 - 055815270 Tel: 055 406614 Fax: 055 815270 [email protected] Albergo Iolanda Sant’Agata di Mugello Via Imolese, 16 Agriturismo Catelaccio 50033 Firenzuola Via Montepoli, 11/E Tel: 055 819020 Sant’Agata 50038 Scarperia B&B Il Nuovo Cacciatori Tel: 055 8406624 Piazza Agnolo, 5 Cell. 338 2842883 - Fax: 055 8406624 50033 Firenzuola [email protected] Tel: 055 8109009 - Fax: 055 8109009 Pietramala - Covigliaio APT Municipality of Barberino del Mugello Albergo Montefreddi Tourist Information Office Via Montefreddi Via del Lago, 33 Pietramala - Cà di Barba Loc. I Boschi 50031 50033 Firenzuola Barberino del Mugello Tel: 347 9925090 Near the A1 motoway www.montefreddi.it Barberino di Mugello exit Tel and Fax: 055 8420106 B&B La vecchia scuola www.comune.barberino-di-mugello.fi.it Loc. Covigliaio - Cerretino, 7 – Pietramala www.mugellotoscana.it 50033 Firenzuola [email protected] Tel: 055 812251 Hours: every day 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Cell: 335 7068546 Fax: 055 812251 Borgo San Lorenzo [email protected] Tourist Information Office Villa Pecori Giraldi at Hotel Ristorante Gualtieri Museo della Manifattura Chini Via Nazionale, 81 - Pietramala Piazzale Lavacchini 1 - 50032 50033 Firenzuola Tel: 055 8456230 - 055 84527186 Fax: 055 8456230 - 055 8456288 La Casetta Agriturismo www.mugellotoscana.it Covigliaio - Pietramala www.villapecori.it 50033 Firenzuola [email protected] Tel: 055 812038 [email protected] Fax: 055 8154914 Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m. 4.5 km South-West of Pietramala Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3 p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m. Futa Pass Campeggio La Futa Tourist Information Office Via Bruscoli, 889/H - Futa Pass Comunità Montana Mugello 50033 Firenzuola Via P. Togliatti 45 Tel: 328 9248746 - Cell: 333 1148501 Sede operativa at Fax: 055 815297 Villa Pecori Giraldi - 50032 [email protected] Tel: 055 84527185-6 www.campinglafuta.it Fax: 055 8456288 Futa Pass Albergo www.mugellotoscana.it [email protected] Via San Jacopo a Castro, 57 - La Futa 183 50033 Firenzuola Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Tel: 055 815255 Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3 www.passodellafuta.it p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.

TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist Information Office Municipality of Vaglia U.R.P. Municipality of San Piero a Sieve At the ticket office of Villa Demidoff Piazzetta del Comune, 1 Pratolino - Vaglia 50037 San Piero a Sieve (Florence) Tel: 055 409784 Tel: 055 8487536 - Fax: 055 848432 [email protected] www.mugellotoscana.it Opening: 15 July - 15 September www.comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi.it Thursdays and Fridays: 4 p.m.-6 p.m.; [email protected] Saturdays and Sundays: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Hours: from Monday to Saturday 9 a.m.- 1 p.m.; Thursday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3 Firenzuola p.m.-6 p.m Palazzo ex Pretura Piazza Agnolo, 15 Town hall of Firenzuola 50033 Firenzuola (Florence) Tourist information At the Library and at the Pro Loco (support) Piazza Don Stefano Casini, 1 [email protected] 50054 Firenzuola (Florence) Tel: 055 8199434/5 - 055 8199007 Tel: 055 8199460 Fax: 055 819366 www.firenzuolaturismo.it Winter hours: Mondays 2 p.m.-4 p.m. [email protected] and Saturdays 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Summer hours: Monday - Thursday 10 Firenzuola a.m.-12 p.m. / 3 p.m.-5 p.m.; Saturdays Dal Bosco e dalla Pietra (October) and Sundays 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni Battista (24 June) Tourist Information Office of the Municipality of Firenzuola San Piero a Sieve Via SS. Annunziata, 4 Feast of the Patron Saints, San Pietro 50033 Firenzuola (Florence) and Paolo (June) Tel: 055 8199459 Palio della Fortezza (last week-end in Fax: 055 8109856 May or first in June) www.firenzuolaturismo.it [email protected] Scarperia Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30 Feast of Diotto a.m.-12.30 p.m.; Mondays and Thursdays (first week in September) also 3 p.m.-5 p.m. Feast of the Patron Saints, Jacopo and Filippo (3 May) At the Library of the Municipality Infiorata (24 May) of San Piero a Sieve Piazza Medici - 50037 Scarperia Sant’Agata di Mugello Tel: 055 8487528 Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Agata Fax: 055 848432 (1 February) [email protected] Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 3 Sesto Fiorentino p.m.-7 p.m.; Thursdays 9 a.m.-12 p.m./3 Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; 1st (11 November) and 3rd Mondays of each month 3 p.m.- 10 p.m. Sesto Fiorentino Chiesa di Cercina Feast of Sant’Antonio abate and bless- Pro Loco Scarperia ing of animals (18 January) Palazzo dei Vicari Piazza dei Vicari, 1 50038 Scarperia (Florence) Tel: 055 8468165 Fax: 055 8468862 www.prolocoscarperia.com www.mugellotoscana.it [email protected] 184 Hours (from 25 May to 14 September): From Monday to Friday 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays also 15 p.m.-7.30 p.m.; Saturdays and Sun- days 10 a.m.-1 p.m./3 p.m.-7.30 p.m.; (from 15 September to 24 May): From Wednesday to Sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays 3 p.m.-6.30 p.m.

Events and fairs Barberino di Mugello Canta’ Maggio (May) Feast of the Patron Saint , San Silvestro (31 December)

Borgo San Lorenzo Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo (10 August)

Fiesole Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo (6 July) Feast of San Francesco (first Sunday in October) 5TH ITINERARY

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA 185 The itinerary to Loreto

The Via dell’Alpe di Serra was a pilgrim route to Rome that had been known since the early Middle Ages and one that was considered preferable even to the Via Francigena by a documentary source like the Annales Stadenses from the mid-13th century. The route started from the Via Emilia, with tracks fanning out between Bologna and Forlì, it reached Bagno di Romagna going up the Bidente Valley and then crossed the Apennines at the Alpe di Serra Pass – from which its name is derived – today abandoned in favor of the Mandrioli Pass. It then unwound in the Casentino basin, running parallel to the initial course of the Arno and then reached Arezzo to continue on to Rome, crossing the Val di Chi- ana and afterwards, the Val Tiberina. 5TH ITINERARY

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA The itinerary to Loreto

Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Troghi

Figline Valdarno

Montevarchi Laterina Quarata

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

186

THE ITINERARY

Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence) End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Elevation gain:

400 350 300 Montincello - junction with Setteponti road 250 Junction with SP1 Bandella Reserve 200 dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve Valle 150 100 Junction with detour to Via dell’Albereta Junction with detour to Via Porta San Miniato (Florence) dell’Albereta Detour to Via 50 00 WALKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 78.9 Distance (local itinerary): km 14.9 Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina Distance: km 13.7 Page 192 Leg 1, Local Itineraries: Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna Waypoints: Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo, Poggio Terra Bianca, Arco del Camicia Distance: km 14.9 Page 198 Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina Waypoints: Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia Distance: km 10.3 Page 198 Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno Waypoints: Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno Distance: km17.5 Page 204 Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno Distance: km 17.6 Page 212 Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina Waypoints: Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli Distance: km 18.6 Page 218 Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) 187 Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano Distance: km 11.5 Page 222 Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Distance: km 5.5

This tourist-style itinerary unwinds primarily on asphalt roads and partially on dirt ones. The route is very clearly marked and presents no orientation difficulties. Only the first leg has a significant climb (370 m), whereas there are no significant differences in elevation in the others. Once past Bagno a Ripoli, the landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as S. Donato in Collina. Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter deciduous woods outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated by cultivated fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation predominate near the path until returning to the wooded areas of the Valle dell’Inferno and Ban- della Nature Reserve. Note: The route is characterized by lightly trafficked asphalt roads (70%), while the remainder is characterized by gravel and dirt road beds (30%). On foot, attention must be paid along those parts of the provincial and regional roads that lack sidewalks where the rules of the road must be respected. There are no problems with finding water. The last leg of the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) coincides with the final leg of the Setteponti itinerary and includes a short stretch by bus (from Quarata to Arezzo). 5TH ITINERARY

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA The itinerary to Loreto

Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Figline Valdarno

Laterina

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

188

View of the Valdarno countryside BIKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 84.4 Level of technical difficulty: TC Level of physical difficulty: Easy List of legs: Leg 1: From Porta San Miniato – Figline Valdarno Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina, Troghi, Le Valli, Palaz- zolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno - Distance: Km 31.2 Page 192 Leg 2: Figline Valdarno – Laterina Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno, Montevarchi, Levane, Bandella Reserve, Mon- tincello (junction with Setteponti road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve Distance: km 36.2 Page 212 Leg 3: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata Distance: km 17 Page 222

The tourist-style bike route is on asphalt and dirt roads. The dirt roads have smooth, compacted road beds, suitable for vehicles. The first leg is more demanding with a 370-m. climb that leads up to Troghi. Once past the town of Bagno a Ripoli, the landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as S. Donato in Collina. Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter deciduous woods outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated by cultivated fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation predominate near the path until reaching the wooded Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella nature reserve. Note: There are a couple of legs along the route with moderately demanding climbs for which an appropriate physical training is recommended. The route is characterized by asphalt roads with little traffic (70%) and thus suitable for racing bikes, the remaining 30% is characterized by gravel and dirt, largely the Valdarno shared-use path, and therefore suitable for mountain and city bikes. The last leg (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds to the final leg of the Setteponti itinerary. Attention must be paid to vehicle traffic in the last stretch between Quarata and Arezzo. 189

The Ripoli abbey in an 18th-century drawing 190 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA The ShellsofSaintJames feudal resistance andtake full control oftheterritory. “terrenuove”, CastelSanGiovanni,soastodefeattheremaining early 14 around markets(as,forexample, FiglineandMontevarchi). Inthe unexpectedly, largecentersrose alongthisroad anddeveloped erated abundanttraffic in thedirection oftheleadingcity. Not Florentine countryside–considered thecity’s granary–thatgen the upperValdarno. Thiswasaparticularlyfertilearea ofthe for connections between Florence and Arezzo as itran through was nolongerthefavored route toRome.Itwasusedmainly to serveitsfunction,evenifithadonlylocalimportanceas In theMiddleAges,route oftheRomanroad continued plain toarriveinFlorence. and, oncebeyondthe easy SanDonatopass,crossed the Ripoli through theUpperValdarno, keepingtotheleftofArno, Cassia,andthatunwound developed followingtheRomanVia cholai perquamiturinVallem Arni”.Itwasaroute thathad indicated inthe14 even bypilgrimsstartingfrom Florence, whotraveledontheroad The from theupperValdarno. coming from thepopulousneighboringvalleysandprimarily location, apointofconvergencefortheroads usedbypilgrims zo, notonlyanimportantstoppingplacebutalso,becauseofits The firstcityencountered aftercrossing theApennines wasArez Convergence Routes Pilgrim for Arezzo: APoint of the Via dell’Alpe di Serra asa road to Rome must have been used “via etstrataquesummituraportaseuBurgoSanctiNic th century, the Florentine Republic founded one of its first th -century Statuto delCapitanoPopoloas - - - The Ancient Accommodation and Charitable Structures

Evidence of the concentration of travelers is confirmed by the numerous accommodation and charitable structures that dotted the road, concentrating in the main towns and villages. In the 14th century, a number of hostels and inns are documented along the itinerary, in Incisa, Figline, Tartigliese, San Giovanni and Mon- tevarchi, that had no equal in all the Florentine countryside. It was the same as regards hospices, which mainly served pilgrims. The registers of papal tithes from the end of the 13th century, that recorded only some of the many hospices that were found along the way, mention : the Hospice of Plano Alberti, located at the point where the “terranuova” of San Giovanni would soon rise, the Hospice of Ancisa and the Hospice of Avanella (Levanella). Yet we know from other sources that the hospices were much more numerous, especially in San Giovanni and In- cisa, not to mention in Troghi (Sant’Antonio alle Staffe), La Gine- stra (Sant’Angelo), and, above all, in Montevarchi and Figline. In addition, there was the large one that rose in L’Apparita, near Florence: the hospice of Fonteviva or Bigallo, first documented in 1214, as well as a whole series of small hospices that dotted the initial stretch of road between Florence and Bagno a Ripoli.

Towards the Sanctuary of Loreto

Between the 15th and 16th centuries, another important place of pilgrimage was added to the traditional peregrinationes of West- ern Christianity, the Sanctuary of Loreto, with a significant increase in the transit of pilgrims through the upper Valdarno. The road to Arezzo, in fact, became the starting route for all those who wished 191 to travel from Florence to visit the Holy House in Loreto. Abundant documents – mostly from the 16th and 17th centuries – tell us about the route, with pilgrims stopping in the Florentine Valdarno, in Palazzolo or Troghi, then in Figline, Levanella and finally in Ponte a Buriano. The route went to Cortona through the Val di Chiana, and then headed towards Foligno, traveling by way of Perugia and Assisi. After crossing the Col Fiorito Pass, it continued in the Chienti valley, reaching Recanati and finally arriving in Loreto.

Along the way 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

Leg 1: PORTA SAN MINIATO (Florence) TROGHI

Porta San Miniato (Florence)

Candeli Villamagna

Starting point of LEG 1 Incontro

Belvedere Bagno a Ripoli

Santa Caterina San Frediano Bigallo

Ponte Ema

Antella Osteria Nuova

LOCAL ITINERARY San Donato in Collina

Troghi

LEG 1 to Figline Valdarno see page 204

192

View of Florence from L’Apparita WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 370 Distance: km 13.7 Travel time: 4h15’

This tourist-style leg follows mostly asphalt and partly dirt roads (along the Albereta bike path). It is clearly marked and does not present any difficulties or orientation problems. The stretch from Bagno a Ripoli to San Donato in Collina is demanding with 370-m. elevation gain. Immediately after Bagno Porta San Miniato (Florence) a Ripoli, the route follows SP1, which offers fine views over the city and the typical hilly landscape. Candeli Villamagna Note: Water and refreshments are available along this leg at many points in the Starting point villages outside of Florence. In the city, we advise pedestrians to take the alter- of LEG 1 native route on the Varlungo inside the Albereta Park. The road leads us to the Incontro Antique Hospice of Bigallo, where an intermediate stopover can be made, and Belvedere from which two day-long itineraries can be followed to discover the historical Bagno a Ripoli and architectural heritage in the hills of Bagno a Ripoli.

Santa Caterina San Frediano Bigallo Transport:

Ponte Ema Florence

Antella Osteria Nuova San Donato in Collina Troghi

LOCAL ITINERARY San Donato in Collina To be seen: Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli Troghi Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli

LEG 1 to Hospice of Bigallo Figline Valdarno View of Florence from “L’Apparita” see page 204

193

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Arezzo The route that begins our itinerary starts from Porta San Mini- ato. From here we go along a stretch of Via San Miniato and enter Via San Niccolò that then leads us to the point where the medieval road began: the current Piazza Poggi, dominated by the turreted Porta San Niccolo, the only city gate in Florence’s 13th-century walls that has maintained its original elevation. From Piazza Poggi, we take Via della Fornace until it connects to Via Ser Ventura Monachi. This runs into Via dei Bastioni and then intersects the 19th- century Viale Michelangelo.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

Bagno a Ripoli The Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli has kept its original Romanesque look; it has a basilican plan with three aisles sepa- rated by square pillars and by two recycled marble columns at the presbytery. A semicircular apse ends the building, which is covered with the traditional wooden trusses. Next to the church is a simple Romanesque bell tower while the elegant portico, that rests against the façade, is ascribable to the 14th century and is set on octagonal pillars. The parish church by now merges with the first houses of Bagno a Ripoli, a modern-looking town whose considerable antiquity is, nevertheless, confirmed by the archaeological site located between Via della Nave and the new Piazza della Pace. There are remains of buildings from the Imperial age (1st-4th centuries A.D.), perhaps thermae, and a large cistern in opus reticula- tum. Rising on the ancient Via Cassia, Bagno a Ripoli is the successor to the ancient town of Ripulae, whose name derived from the river banks (ripae) that prevented the Arno from flooding the plain.

194 The parish church of Ripoli of SanPietro aRipoli. Roma,andwefindtheParishChurchchanges andbecomesVia The road thenentersthetownofBagnoaRipoli,here itsname can alsoreach theancientVallombrosan abbey. della BadiaaRipoli,we dellaLameandthenonVia going onVia From delBisarno. here, Riverandgoesasfar Via the Arno dell’Albereta.Via Thisisapedestrian-onlystreet thatrunsalong PoggioBracciolini,whereRavenna bywayofVia wecanenter routeAn alternative startingfrom diRipoliarrivesinPiazza Via to thecloister:“hospeserametsuscepistismevenitebenedicti”. as ahospitium,testifiedbyaninscriptiononthedoorleading Because ofitslocationonanimportantartery, theabbeyserved a smallloggiaonthefront thatwasaddedatalaterperiod. church hasasinglenavewith acryptunderthepresbytery and structed inthe14 in front oftheChiesadiSantaMariaaRicorboli,firstcon- We cross thestreet C.Marsuppinithatpasses andgoalongVia esque architectural features as well as a 14 marked byagreat simplicity, haspreserved itsoriginalRoman- the diRipoli,alittleafterSpedaluzzo,wefind Continuing alongVia were inBandinoandSpedaluzzo, andaninninAlbergaccio. diRipoli82,otherhospices landi InstitutestandstodayatVia also bythetowns’verynames:ahospicewaswhere theGua- stretch, their existence confirmed notonlyby documentsbut dation andcharitablestructures would havebeenfoundinthis Bianco, locatedalongtheroute. Inthepast,firstaccommo- del Merlo Rusciano and Villa villas, as can still be seen withVilla in whatwere oncetheFlorentine suburbs,dottedwithelegant diRipolionwhichwecontinue.Weintersection withVia are We continuepastthechurch Coluccio Salutatiuntilthe onVia awaited them. the Madonna to ask for heavenly protection along the trip that of greatto venerationbypilgrimsandtravelers,whowouldturn Refuge byamasterfrom theschoolofGiotto(1335),anobject years ofthelastcentury. Insideistheso-calledMadonnaof Vallombrosan AbbeyofSanBartolomeodi Ripoli,that,

Time: 50’ Porta San Miniato (Florence) 3.5 km

Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli Time: 15’ th 1 km century, butcompletelyrebuilt intheearly

Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli Time: 15’ 1 km

Bagno a Ripoli Time: 1h10’ 3 km

Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo th Time: 1h20’ -century cloister. The 3.7 km

San Donato in Collina Time: 25’ 1.5 km

Troghi 195 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1 196 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1 Croce rises.Builtinthesecondhalfof13 stretch untilwereach Varliano where theOratoryofSanta Podestà, wefollowtheViaVecchia Aretinaonasteepdownhill Back toBagnoaRipoliandpassingtheancientTabernacle ofthe viaggio allaSantaCasabyCanonGiuseppeAntonioScarlatti. ping placeafterthepass,ismentionedin1726Relazionedel connect totheprovincial road. AninninTroghi, thefirststop- a picturesque and there bridge that also has a tabernacle we the ancientstonepaving.We cometoTroghi aftercrossing over main route alongwhichwe findsome remaining stretches of chia Aretina–ameaningfulnamebutthatoncewasthe From SanDonato,wetake thenowsecondaryroad ofViaVec- joining theprovincial road justbefore thetown. proceeds inthedirection ofthepass(andtown)SanDonato, work, haspreservedTheroad theaedicule ofatabernacle. then ture datingback to 1293 that, together with the original brick- , astruc- then becomesadirtone,thatleadstoPonteVicelli to LeQuattro. Here Vie weinitiallytakean asphaltroad that point where thewayfarer couldseeFlorence), andthencomes L’Apparita (a place-name originatingfrom its being the first Leaving the hospice behind, ouritinerary passes quickly through point forthetwolocalitineraries. cent provincial road, wentupsteeplyuntilitreached themagnifi- After aflatstretch, themedieval road, inLaFonte,unlike today’s covered withregular coursesofsandstoneashlars. into three bayscovered withribbedcross vaults,andafaçade church hasRomanesque-Gothicfeatures: asinglenave divided hospice ofFontevivaordelBigallo,whichisthestarting

Time: 50’ Porta San Miniato (Florence) 3.5 km

Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli Time: 15’ 1 km

Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli Time: 15’ 1 km

Bagno a Ripoli Time: 1h10’ 3 km

Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo Time: 1h20’ 3.7 km th

San Donato in Collina century, thelittle Time: 25’ 1.5 km

Troghi VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Church of San Donato in Collina Though modernized, the church has kept the high, cuspidate bell tower whose architectural features still reflect the Romanesque tradition. There was a hospice – also named for Saint Donatus – attached to the church that served travelers’ needs, recorded since 1341.

HOSPITALITY

The Ancient Hospice of Bigallo Built in the first half of the 13th century by Dioticidiede di Bonagui- da del Dado, a rich citizen of Florence, the hospice was the seat of the Compagnia Maggiore dei Capitani di Santa Maria della Fede, later known as the Bigallo from its location. It carried out charitable work, caring for pilgrims and poor travelers as well as the sick that were given shelter in the thirty beds of the hospice. Later it was converted into a monastery in the 16th century, and then used for civil purposes after the Napoleonic suppression. Now the partly restored hospice has just recently returned to play its ancient role as a hostel for travelers. The complex consists of several buildings from different periods, with the oldest parts ascribable to the 13th century. Of note is the large hall with the lacunar ceil- ing that served as the refectory and the ancient kitchen with its large fireplace.

Reconstruction of the antique hospice of the Bigallo

197 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES: BIGALLO - INCONTRO - VILLAMAGNA BIGALLO - ANTELLA - SANTA CATERINA

Villamagna LOCAL ITINERARY San Gherardo

Rimaggio Incontro

Belvedere Bagno a Ripoli

San Fredinando Santa Caterina Bigallo MAIN Querceto ITINERARY

Antella Osteria Nuova

Il Colto Casanuova

Reto 198

Hospice of the Bigallo WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo, Poggio Terra Bianca, Arco del Camicia Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 580 Distance: km 14.9 Travel time: 5h15’

The local itinerary, leading to the Convent of Incontro, is characterized by the typical landscape of the Florentine hills, with terraced olive groves and mixed woods of downy, turkey and holm oaks and scattered groups of cypress in some areas.

To be seen: Church of Santo Stefano a Paterno Convent of Incontro Villamagna Oratory of Beato Gherardo LOCAL ITINERARY San Gherardo Parish Church of Villamagna

Rimaggio Incontro

Belvedere Bagno a Ripoli List of waypoints: Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia San Fredinando Santa Caterina Level of technical difficulty: T Bigallo Level of physical difficulty: Easy MAIN Querceto ITINERARY Climb: m 200

Antella Osteria Nuova Distance: km 10.3

Il Colto Casanuova Travel time: 3h10’

Reto This local south itinerary unwinds in an area characterized by a rural landscape dominated by olive cultivation. The route therefore crosses traditional and spe- 199 cialized olive groves interspersed with the rows of cypresses typical of Tuscany. Approaching Antella, the itinerary also runs for a short stretch on a footpath along the S. Giorgio River.

To be seen: Parish Church of Santa Maria dell’Antella Frescoes in the Oratory of Santa Caterina 200 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES Interior oftheparishchurchVillamagna there isalate13 that leadstotheChurch,inwhich ofSantoStefanoaPaterno Arco di Terzano”, del Camicia and take “Via the road to the right ing towards Florence, after a few hundred meters, we arrive at The the villages of of SanGherardo, where aCAItrailbeginsthatwilltakeusto From theparishchurch wereturn tothechurch ofVillamagna, in Villamagna. and Domninus,paintedbyFrancescoGranacciwhowasborn Angels andSaintsaMadonnaChildwithGerard by MariottodiNardo andChildwith that portraystheVirgin there are somepaintingsandfrescoes, includingatriptych by arches setonsimplepillars andwithahighbelltower. Inside, served itsoriginalRomanesquefeatures: three aislesseparated Parish Church, whichhaspre ofSan DonninoaVillamagna - Leaving theOratoryofSanGherardo, wequicklycometothe destination. object ofgreat localveneration and,atonetime,apilgrimage an oratorynamedforBeatoGherardo , asaintwhowasthe lamagna; shortlybefore arrivingatthe church, wecometo We descendIncontro Hilltowards theParishChurch- ofVil Port Maurice. – istheFranciscanconventfoundedin1716bySaintLeonard of where atthetop–withabeautifulviewofFlorentine valley Gaddi. Thenwecontinue on adirtroad thatclimbsIncontro Hill where westarted. Vecchiajoining theVia Aretina, notfarfrom Arco delCamicia first itineraryproceeds inthearea- northofBigallo.Return , Vizzano th -century paintedCrucifixattributedtoGaddo Podere Radda,andRimaggino until LAND OF SAINTS

The Blessed Gerard and His Oratory Born around 1174 on a farm in the Villamagna countryside, the Blessed Gerard is thought to have died in 1258, or perhaps in 1269. Because of his peasant origins, he was nicknamed the saint with clogs. The fame of his holiness and rumor of the miracles worked by him spread quickly after his death. He was especially recognized for his ability to free the countryside from such adverse weather conditions as hail, drought, and excessive rainfall. An ancient Vita or life of the saint recounts that, after his death, as the people of Villamagna wished “to take some Relics of Him (…) there was the risk that the Holy body itself would not even decompose; therefore it was rightly decided to put it, as it was done, in a coffin, and place it on top of an oak tree, until a church was built on the site of his hermitage” (M. BROCCHI, Vita di San Gherardo di Villamagna, Lucca 1750, p.22). Probably built in the second half of the 13th century, the Oratory of San Gherardo has a single nave that still reflects the Romanesque architectural tradition. Inside is the stone sarcophagus that holds the body of the blessed man, and serves as the base for the altar mensa; on the walls are traces of frescoes depicting scenes from the life of the holy man.

Oratory of Beato Gherardo

201 202 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES 16 medieval manorhouses,oftentransformedandexpandedinthe Always on dirt roads, we go through a countryside dotted with Caterina, acharmingjewelofartandarchitecture. the CasaPoggioaiGrilliuntilwereach theOratoryofSanta Leaving Antella, we goalong a secondary road that passes by Antella thatarose around theParishChurch ofSantaMaria. We continue towards Osteria Nuova and arrive in the town of Child with Saint John as a Child attributed to Domenico Puligo. Country roadlinedwithtrees Quiricus andJudithcontainsa16 ward thevillageofRuballa,whosechurch isdedicatedtoSaints erary. Adirtroad branchesoff from Bigalloandproceeds to- To discoverthearea south ofBigallo, wefollowasecond - itin Via VecchiaVia Aretina thatwereach in“Arco delCamicia” . merly belonged to the Alberti family. Then we come again to the th and17 th centuries, such as Villa “LeTavernucole” centuries,suchasVilla thatfor th -century Madonnaand - VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Parish Church of Santa Maria all’Antella A Romanesque church with a single rectangular nave, it was later enlarged at the presbytery and restored with some stylistically consistent additions at the beginning of the 20th century. Inside there are several 16th- and 17th-century paintings, including an Assumption of the Virgin by Domenico Passignano.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Oratory of Santa Caterina Built by the Alberti family beginning in 1354, the Oratory of Santa Caterina is named for the proto-Christian martyr whose life and martyrdom are told in an evocative cycle of frescoes, recently restored by the Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli. It is the work of three masters of the 14th century: Spinello Aretino, Pietro Nelli, and the so-called “Master of Barberino”. The church, whose 14th-century features are completely intact, has a single nave covered with wooden trusses and a small, square apse at the end.

Frescoes of Saint Catherine

203 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

Leg 2: TROGHI FIGLINE VALDARNO

Continuing of LEG 1 see page 192

Troghi Frassine

Piano di Fontana

Le Valli

Palazzolo Fornacette

Pietramala

Ciliegi Cerchiaia

Incisa in Val d’Arno

Le Fornaci

La Torricella

204

Figline Valdarno

Reconstruction of Francesco Petrarch’s house, Incisa in Valdarno WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 60 Distance: km 17.5 Travel time: 4h55’

A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads (80%) and partly on dirt ones (20%), with a well-marked route that does not present any orientation problems. The section from Troghi to Incisa in Val d’Arno is characterized by a descent towards the Valdarno with some panoramic points. Note: The path is shaded along the stretch between Palazzolo and Incisa in Val d’Arno, and water and refreshments are available in the villages and towns along the route.

Transport: Figline Troghi To be seen: Castle of Incisa House where Francesco Petrarch was born Parish Church of San Vito in Loppiano (panoramic viewpoint) Franciscan Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio Museum of Sacred Art in Figline Valdarno Church of San Francesco in Figline Valdarno

205

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Arezzo 206 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2 Road alongtheitinerary San QuiricoallaFelce,achurch recorded asearlythe13 leave theprovincial road forashorterroute thattakesusto farm-villa of“LaChiocciola”.ArrivinginLuna”,weagain ring tothecharitablestructure thatonceexistedthere), thenthe ing firstthrough Spedaletto(anotherplace-nameclearlyrefer Leaving cated toSaintMaryofLoreto. and reaches Palazzolo,whosechurch isnotby chance dedi- a secondary road that passes through the Fattoria dei Bagnani In LeValli, wereturntotheprovincial road; shortlyafter, wetake public andalsooffer accommodation intheadjoiningrooms. been restored by its present owners who have opened it to the exhibits vaguelyneoclassicalforms.Abandonedforyears,ithas century. Thebuildinghasundergonemanyalterationsandnow

Time: 1h30’ Troghi 5.8 km Troghi, wegoalongastretch ofprovincial road pass- Time: 35’ 2.1 km Palazzolo

Castle of Incisa Time: 25’ 1.4 km

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano Time: 25’ 1.3 km

Franciscan Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio Time: 2h 6.9 km

Figline Valdarno th -

Above: old stone paving along the route / Below: Fattoria La Chiocciola in Spedaletto

207 IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS

Palazzolo in Pilgrims’ Memoirs Palazzolo was probably a stopping point on the Roman Via Cassia since ancient times, as seems to be indicated by its place-name, derived from palatium, a term used in the late Imperial Age to indicate the posts along the routes served by the cursus publicus. Pilgrimage memoirs mention Palazzolo as a stopping point for those who left from Florence. The brothers of the Florentine Con- gregation of the Holy Trinity stopped there in 1577, and paid 10 scudi, 6 soldi, and 8 denari to “Benedetto, host (...) for breakfast made at said inn”. While Canon Joseph Antonio Scarlatti noted in his 1726 Relazione that he “finally stopped at half past three in Palazzolo, the inn of the lord Marchese Corsini”.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio Originally a small monastery of nuns dedicated to aiding travelers and pilgrims, it later passed in 1510 to the Franciscans, who continued their charitable work. The single-nave church was built in the first half of the 16th century, and, at the end of that century, was given an imposing arcade to accommodate pilgrims. It was subsequently remodeled in a late Baroque style.

Reconstruction of the Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio

208 Petrarch inwhichthepoetspenthisfirstsevenyears. with medievalremnants, includingthefamilyhomeofFrancesco Church ofSanBiagiosurviveaswellsomeotherbuildings Incisa, where theremains ofitswallsandtheRomanesque Quirico diMontelfiandCampogiano–leadstotheCastleof Burchio where wetaketheroad that–passingthrough San Beyond Palazzolo, we continue on the provincial road as far as Ruins ofIncisaCastle

Time: 1h30’ Troghi 5.8 km Time: 35’ 2.1 km Palazzolo

Castle of Incisa Time: 25’ 1.4 km

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano Time: 25’ 1.3 km

Franciscan Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio Time: 2h 6.9 km

Figline Valdarno 209 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2 210 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2 Arcade oftheancientSerristorihospiceinFiglineValdarno tabernacle witha15 tabernacle in 1570nearabrickbridge(andhenceitsname).Onitstood is thesanctuarychurch ofSantaMariadiPonterosso , erected We reach Figlinewhere,outskirtsofthetown, onthenorthern then gotowards Poggiolino. provincial road, wefollowastretch asfarMassadiIncisato recorded sincethebeginningof14 stands, ciscan ConventofSantiCosmaeDamianoalVivaio castle. We arriveinthetownfrom thesouth,where theFran- town ofIncisathatgrewatthefoot upalongtheArno, The road from theChurch continuestowards ofSanVito the has largelypreserved itsoriginalRomanesquelayout. church hasthree aislesand,despitethealterationsover time,it inLoppiano,firstdocumentedthe11 San Vito A road leads from the castle to the ancient modation andcharitablestructures there confirms.Inthe14 road toLoreto, asthedocumentedconcentrationofaccom- In theMiddleAges,Figlinewasamajorstoppingpointon plan choirdefinedbyastonearch withafloralmotif. istics oftheRenaissanceminorarchitecture withaquadrangular- and moved inside the oratory. The church reflects the character school ofPerugino;thoughttobemiraculous,itwasdetached the Virginis, SantoSpirito,Societaspresbiterum,andfinallythatof of theCross;thenthere were thehospicesofSocietasMariae pice ofSanLorenzo,aDominicanone,andonetheCompany century, there were a good seven hospices in Figline: the Time: 1h30’ Troghi Commune. 5.8 km Time: 35’ 2.1 km Palazzolo th -century imageoftheMadonnafrom the

Castle of Incisa Time: 25’ 1.4 km

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano Time: 25’ 1.3 km th Franciscan Convent of Santi century. Back onthe Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio Parish Church of Time: 2h 6.9 km th century. The

Figline Valdarno Hos- th -

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Walled Town of Figline In the Middle Ages, Figline was one of the most populous centers in the Florentine countryside, home to a market whose prices served as the standard for all of the upper Valdarno. Testifying to the city’s importance is the circuit of 14th-century walls, still largely intact, that enclosed the town, not to mention the civil buildings in the historical center, with many elegant, important ones like the Casa Grande Serristori with its 15th-century double- colonnaded courtyard. Also remarkable are the 13th-century Col- legiate Church and the Gothic Church of San Francesco, built at the end of the 13th century and which reflects the simplicity typical of Franciscan architecture. Overlooking the ancient market square is the loggia of the Serristori Hospice, an important Figline institution that dates from the 15th century.

IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS

Figline, An Important Stopping Point Also pilgrimage memoirs invariably mention Figline as a stopping point. In 1577 members of the Florentine Confraternity of the Holy Trinity stopped there and spent the night at a cost of 41 scudi, “paid to Domenico di Bartolomeo Biagiotti, innkeeper of Figline, for having given dinner to 30 of us from the Company”. As did Canon Giuseppe Antonio Scarlatti, who wrote in his previously mentioned Relazione, “... passing the plain of La Fonte, the Arcade of the ancient Serristori hospice in Figline Valdarno castle of Incisa, the Franciscan fathers of Vivaio, and the monastery of the Vallombrosan fathers of the Madonna del Ponte Rosso, we came to the town of Figline, five miles from Palazzolo, and 211 leaving the said town, we stopped at one in the night at the inn of La Stella, not very far from it, having recited the Holy Rosary while on the road. This inn is of the Lord Duke Salviati, who also owns the beautiful villa of San Cerbone, which is on a hill above”.

Figline on the map of “Popoli e strade” of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa (1585) 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

Leg 3: FIGLINE VALDARNO MONTEVARCHI

Starting point of LEG 2

Figline Valdarno

Carresi

Badiola

Restone

Porcellino

Badiola

San Giovanni Valdarno

Terranuova Bracciolini Convent of San Francesco a Montecarlo

LEG 2 to 212 Laterina see page 218 Ricasoli Montevarchi

Detail of Figline town walls WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 10 Distance: km 17.6 Travel time: 4h30’

This is a tourist-style leg that, for over half of its length, follows the dirt shared- use path of the Valdarno and then enters the towns of San Giovanni Valdarno and Montevarchi. The route is therefore well-marked and presents no difficulties or problems of orientation. Note: The itinerary offers little shade; water and refreshments are available in the three towns along the route. It is flat and its length is not particularly demanding, no special physical training is needed.

Transport: Figline Valdarno San Giovanni Valdarno Montevarchi To be seen: Convent of San Francesco a Montecarlo Palazzo d’Arnolfo in San Giovanni Valdarno Museum of the basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno Church of San Giovanni Battista in San Giovanni Valdarno Church of San Lorenzo Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo in Montevarchi Montevarchi Museum of Sacred Art

213

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Arezzo VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The “Terranuova” of Castel San Giovanni The resolution of the Florentine Signoria to erect in Valdarno the walled town of Castel San Giovanni dates to 1299. “Arnolfo made the design for it...” thus, Vasari recalls the event leading to the creation of a town with a regular urban plan, set on the Via Aretina and with an orthogonal grid road network. A large part of the town’s fortification system has disappeared, unlike the urban layout that has survived largely intact, with the main building of the “terranuova”, represented by the turreted Palazzo Pretorio, also attributed to Arnolfo. The visual and functional center of San Giovanni, the Palazzo Pretorio is located in the center of the square on which are also found the town’s main religious buildings: the 17th-century Ba- silica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista and the Gothic Church of San Lorenzo, with its peculiar two-aisle plan.

DEVOTION

The Miracle of the Milk Castel San Giovanni was itself a destination for pilgrims, although mostly of local importance, owing to the great veneration towards a picture of the Madonna which was linked to a miraculous event dating back to 1478. In that year, following the plague that had raged in and decimated the Valdarno area, an elderly woman, Monna Tancia dei Bianchi Bonavista, found herself having to look after her grandson without help, as they were the only survivors in their family. Unable to find a wet-nurse to replace the 214 boy’s dead mother, the woman went to pray at the San Lorenzo town gate, above which there was a fresco depicting the Virgin nursing: Monna Tancia sensed within herself the vital flow that would allow her to feed the baby with her own milk. Later, a repetition of miraculous events first led to the construction of a large tabernacle and then, because of the increased number of those making pilgrimages to the sacred image, to the building of a church that made up the oldest core of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno tion facilities. more modestly than in Figline, a concentration of accommoda- stopping pointontheancientroad toArezzo andhad, although San GiovanniValdarno. Thelatterwasonceanimportant forthe few kilometersthat divide thetownofFigline fromArno From Figlineyoutakethefootpaththatfollowscourseof Palazzo d’ArnolfoinSanGiovanniValdarno

Figline Valdarno Time: 2h45’ 10.7 km

San Giovanni Valdarno Time: 1h45’ 6.9 km

Montevarchi 215 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3 216 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3 Collegiate ChurchofSanLorenzoinMontevarchi to thetravelersandpilgrimswhostoppedthere. The13 modation (hospices,inns,hostels)thattheValdarno area offered to Spedaluzzo, theplace-nameofasmallvillageatentrance On theprovincial road, whosecourse is parallel to ours,wefind bank oftheArno. tinuing towalkontheshared-use paththatrunsalongtheleft the nextwaypointonouritinerary, is short andcovered bycon- The distancebetweenSanGiovanniValdarno andMontevarchi, tevarchi, aswellahospiceofSant’Antonio. nis Mariaeperegrinationis, a HospitaleSancti Michaelis de Mon- 14 th Figline Valdarno Montevarchi, whichconfirmedthemanyformsofaccom- -century sources speakofthe existenceofaHospitaleVirgi- Time: 2h45’ 10.7 km

San Giovanni Valdarno Time: 1h45’ 6.9 km

Montevarchi th - and DEVOTION

The Pilgrimage of the Mothers Pilgrims were also able to increase their religious fervor in Monte- varchi, with the opportunity offered by the relic of the Holy Milk kept in the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, also in this case a destination of local pilgrimages. Around the precious relic, donated to the people of Montevarchi by Count Guido Guerra V, a pious congregation formed that was named after Saint Mary of the Milk, later becoming the Compagnia del Latte, which contributed to the cult being established in the Valdarno area where, not by chance, the iconography of the suckling Madonna would spread. Hence, women who had recently given birth made the pilgrimage to the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo to pray for an abundance of milk.

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS

The Ancient Market Town Originally the market of the castrum de Monteguarchi set on the top of a hill northwest of the current town, Montevarchi was acquired by Florence in the mid-13th century. It was one of the main towns in the Florentine countryside in terms of urban population and size and was therefore equipped with a system of fortifications of which few traces remain, except for the massive keep reinfor- cing the defenses at the Porta Fiorentina. The still clearly visible 13th-14th-century structure of the town is based on two longitudi- nal road axes running parallel to each other and the large central square, with the Palazzo Pretorio and the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, the most important church in Montevarchi renovated on th th several occasions: first, in the 17 century and again in the 18 217 century. The clear influence of Florentine cultural models is plainly visible in other important buildings of the town: the late-Renaissan- ce Oratory of the Madonna del Giglio, the 16th-century Palazzo Alamanni, and the 18th-century church of Sant’Andrea a Cennano.

Sanctuary Church of Santa Maria del Giglio in Montevarchi 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

Leg 4: MONTEVARCHI LATERINA

Continuing of LEG 2 see page 212

Monticello ((junction with Setteponti road)

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Laterina Montevarchi Levanella Reserve Bandella Reserve

Montalto Podere Stefanelli Levane

Bucine

218

Bandella Reserve WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 150 Distance: km 18.6 Travel time: 5h15’

This tourist-style leg runs along both dirt and asphalt roads. The route is well- marked, and poses no difficulties or problems of orientation. This leg is characterized by some panoramic points on the Arno Valley and the passage across areas of natural interest. Note: The route begins on the dirt road of a shared-use path that goes from Montevarchi, along the bank of the Dogana River, and leads then to the SR69 Continuing of LEG 2 road near Levanella. From here, after about a 2.5 km stretch on the SR69 road, see page 212 it continues northward crossing the Arno and arriving in Monticello. After the bridge on Lake Levane, we climb again through the oak woods to reconnect with the historical Via Vecchia Aretina at Ponte Romito, which we follow for 2.8 Monticello km until reaching Laterina. In this section, pedestrians are advised to comply ((junction with Setteponti road) with the rules of the road. On this leg, local restaurants and water fountains Valle dell’Inferno are available. and Bandella Laterina Montevarchi Levanella Reserve Transport: Bandella Reserve Montevarchi Laterina Montalto Podere Stefanelli Levane Ponticino Levane Bucine Monticello To be seen: Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Natural Reserve Monticello Visitor Center Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina) 219 Walk along the ancient castle walls, with panorama of the Lower Valdarno (Laterina) Parish Church of San Giovanni Galatrona and Tower (Montevarchi - Mercatale bus and then 1 kilometer on foot)

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Arezzo Parish Church of San Giovanni a Galatrona

220 View fromMonticello til reaching Laterina. From Montincello,wecontinue east,stillonsecondaryroads un- hydroelectric plantoftheLevane dam. on footorbyboatwithinthenaturalarea aswellvisitstothe water courses,andthewood.You canalsobookguidedtours the majorecologicalsystemsofnaturalreserve: wetlands, Reserve is located. Here you can find and get information on the visitorcenterofValle andBandellaNature dell’Inferno Wethe Arno. then reach the small village of Valle andBandellaNature dell’Inferno Reserve,where wecross northandtakeadirtroadvane, thenturn thatleadstothe we goalongashortstretch of state road No.69asfarLe- Here, RiverasfarthevillageofCaseVillanuzza. the Arno Our itinerarybeyondMontevarchi usesabikepaththatfollows one atnightinthecityofArezzo”. past thebridgeatBurianoandQuarratawearrivedhalf Knight BindoPeruzzi(...)at9p.m.,weleftfromthatvillaand at aquarterpasttwoinMonsoglio,thebeautifulvillaofSir stage is,bytheMalafrascaforestandbelowLaterina,wearrived Montevarchi at10amandpassingbyLevanewherethepost- Antonio Scarlatti:“Themorningof9Septemberwestartedfrom described inthe18 The successive course of the road to Arezzo is thus succinctly

Montevarchi Time: 1h45’ 7 km

Levane th -century Time: 35’ 1.8 km

Valle dell’Inferno Relazione bythecanonGiuseppe and Bandella Nature Reserve Time: 45’ 2.4 km

Monticello: Monticello, where Nature Reserve Visitor Center Time: 2h10’ 7.4 km

Laterina 221 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 4 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA

Leg 5: LATERINA QUARATA (AREZZO)

Le Fornaci Starting point Le Casacce of LEG 3

Cincelli

Ponte a Buriano P. Mongibello Rondine Laterina Junction Patrignone with SP1 Quarata

Montione Pratantico

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

222

Buriano Bridge WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 170 Distance: km 11.5 Travel time: 3h15’

A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads. We find stretches of dirt roads shortly after Laterina and at the detour that leads from the Vecchia Aretina to Rondine. The route is well marked; it poses no difficulties or problems of orientation. Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti provincial road, we find the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km. Here it is recommended that people traveling on foot continue as far as Ripa Quarata and then take the bus to Arezzo (www.etruriamobilita.it). This leg is the same as the last one of the Setteponti itinerary.

Transport: Laterina Ponte a Buriano Quarata Arezzo To be seen: Village of Rondine Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve Buriano Bridge Arezzo

223

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Porta San Miniato Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Troghi Figline Valdarno Montevarchi Laterina Arezzo 224 www.vieromee.it 5TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 5 formed bytheancienttributaryofTiber. Chiana, butthat,inmedievaltimes,facedthevastmarshyarea on thehighground ofthe hillsthattodaydominatetheVal di route quitesimilartothat of theUmbro-Casentino SS-71road, Past Arezzo, theroad thatwenttoRomemusthavefolloweda city supplementedbythoselocatedintheimmediatevicinity. sit andsortingofpilgrims:hencethenumerous hospices In theMiddle Ages, Arezzo playedan important role inthe tran- chief townofArezzo. can takethebusandskiplaststretch before enteringthe are nowatthegatesofArezzo . From thetownofQuarata, we Apse oftheparishchurchArezzo riano bridgethathaspreserved its14 distance and then again cross over the imposing the Arno Sette Ponti provincial road, which we take. We travel a short right towards thesmallvillageofRondine,nearwhichruns . HereNatural ReserveuntilwecometoLaFornacina turn Monsoglio Farm;weskirtalongthePonteBurianoandPenna After Laterina and continuing towards Arezzo, we findthe

Laterina Time: 1h45’ 5.8 km

Rondine Time: 50’ 3.2 km

Ponte a Buriano Time: 40’ 2.5 km th Quarata -century structures. We

Piazza Grande (Arezzo) of the Bu- The Arno from the Buriano Bridge

225 ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION

Bagno a Ripoli Vialla Il Puccetto Affittacamere Ostello Antico Spedale del Bigallo Via Poggio alla Croce, 42 Via del Bigallo e Apparita 50063 Figline Valdarno Osteria Nuova Tel: 055 9500065 - Fax: 055 9500087 50012 Bagno a Ripoli [email protected] - www.ilpuccetto.it Tel: 055 630907 [email protected] - www.bigallo.it Montevarchi Comunità Nuovi Orizzonti Parrocchia S. Maria a Quarto Via Pestello, 7 - 52026 Montevarchi Via di Quarto, 7 - 50012 Bagno a Ripoli Tel: 055 984819 Tel: 055 696454 - 055 630080 [email protected] Parish priest’s mobile phone: 338 6726373 www.nuoviorizzonti-onlus.com

Troghi Podere Gruccia Affittacamere Agriturismo Villa Torre a Cona Via Burzagli, 273 Via Torre a Cona, 49 52025 Montevarchi San Donato in Collina Tel: 055 9850472 - Cell: 339 6263956 50067 Rignano sull’Arno [email protected] Tel: 055 699000 - Fax: 055 699877 www.poderegruccia.it [email protected] www.villatorreacona.com Podere Luisa Affittacamere Via Rendola, 69 Campeggio Il Poggetto 52025 Montevarchi Via il Poggetto, 143-144 - Troghi Tel: 055 9707334 50067 Rignano sull’Arno [email protected] - www.podereluisa.it Tel: 055 8307323 - Fax: 055 8307323 [email protected] Viallaggio Paradiso Affittacamere www.campingilpoggetto.com Via Chiantigiana 52025 Montevarchi Figline Valdarno Tel: 338 3237591 Campeggio Norcenni [email protected] Via Norcenni, 7 www.villaggioparadiso.it 50063 Figline Valdarno Tel: 055 915141 - Fax: 055 9151402 Laterina [email protected] Fattoria Isola Agriturismo www.ecvavanze.it Via Aretina, 70 - 52020 Laterina Tel: 0575 894785 226 Leon d’Oro di Prozzo Vittorio Affittacamere Via Vittorio Locchi, 7 Il Poggerello Agriturismo 50063 Figline Valdarno Via Penna, 14 - 52020 Laterina Tel: 055 951922 - Fax: 055 951922 Tel: 335 6839009 [email protected] www.leondorotoscana.it Il Torricino Affittacamere Via Valdascione, 1 - 52020 Laterina Monastero della Santa Croce Tel: 0575 89219 Via S. Croce 4 50063 Figline Valdarno Toscana Verde Agriturismo Tel: 055 953176 Via Penna, 2 - 52020 Laterina Tel.: 0575 89571 - Fax: 0575 895750 Podere la Casellina Agriturismo [email protected] Via Poggio alla Croce, 60 www.toscanaverde.com La Casellina 50063 Figline Valdarno Arezzo Tel: 055 9500070 Foresteria San Pier Piccolo [email protected] Via Bicchieraia, 32 - 52100 Arezzo www.poderelacasellina.it Tel: 0575 324219 - Fax: 0575 324219 www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it Valdarno Affittacamere Via Petrarca, 61 Fraternità San Lorenzo 50063 Figline Valdarno Pomaio - 52100 Arezzo Tel: 055 953137 - Fax: 055 953149 Tel: 0575 793811 Il Pascione Casa vacanze Tourist Information Office Rignano Via Setteponti, 40 - 52100 Arezzo at Tourist Information Office Municipality Tel: 0575 356128 - Cell: 334 9557291 of Incisa Val d’Arno www.ilpascione.it URP Municipality of Rignano I Pratacci Foresteria Piazza della Repubblica, 1 Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci 50067 Rignano sull’Arno (Florence) 52100 Arezzo Tel: 055 8347802 - Fax: 055 8348787 Tel: 0575 383338 www.comune.rignano-sullarno.fi.it Cell: 335 7505504 [email protected] www.foresteriarezzo.com Hours: from Monday to Friday 8.30 a.m.- 12.30 p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays also 3 Ostello Villa Severi p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m. -11 a.m. Via F. Redi, 13 - 52100 Arezzo Tel: 0575 299047 Tourist Office Municipality of San Giovanni Valdarno TOURIST INFORMATION Piazza Masaccio, 12 52027 San Giovanni Valdarno URP Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli Tel: 055 9126251 Piazza della Vittoria, 1 Fax: 055 9121796 50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it Tel: 055 6390222 - Fax: 055 6390267 [email protected] www.comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it [email protected] Tourist Information Office Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.-1 (Pro Loco San Giovanni) p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays 2.30 p.m.- Piazza Cavour, 3 6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m. 52027 San Giovanni Val d’Arno (Florence) Tel: 055 943748 Tourist Information Office Fax: 055 9121123 Municipality of Incisa Val d’Arno www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it/proloco.asp (Also for the municipalities of Figline Val- [email protected] darno, Reggello and Rignano sull’Arno) A1 motorway at the Incisa exit in I Ciliegi Tourist Information Office Montevarchi 50064 Incisa Val d’Arno (Florence) Piazza Varchi, 5 - 52025 Montevarchi (AR) Tel and Fax: 055 863129 Tel: 055 9108247 [email protected] www.comune.montevarchi.ar.it Hours (from 17 June to 17 October): [email protected] From Monday to Saturday 227 10 a.m.–12 p.m./2.30 p.m.–6.30 p.m. Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini Closed on Sundays and holidays. Tel: 055 9194705 www.comune.terranuova-bracciolini.ar.it/ Pro-Loco Incisa Val d’Arno Tourist Information Point Piazza Garibaldi, 8 Terranuova Bracciolini 50064 Incisa Val d’Arno Tel: 055 9738828 Tel: 055 8334061 www.terraospitale.it [email protected] [email protected]

Tourist Information Office Figline Valdarno APT of Arezzo at Tourist Information Office Municipality Piazza Risorgimento, 116 - 52100 Arezzo (AR) of Incisa Val d’Arno Tel: 0575239523 www.apt.arezzo.it Associazione Pro Loco Marsilio Ficino [email protected] Piazza San Francesco, 16 50063 Figline Valdarno (Florence) Infopoint of Arezzo Tel: 055 951569 - Fax: 055 953112 Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo (AR) [email protected] Tel: 0575 377829 www.prolocofigline.it www.apt.arezzo.it Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 9 a.m.-12.30 p.m. - Summer hours (May UIT (Tourist Information Office) of Arezzo -September): from Monday to Saturday 9 Piazza della Repubblica, 28 a.m.-12.30 p.m./ 4 p.m.-6.30 p.m. (only 52100 Arezzo (AR) from Monday to Friday) Tel: 0575 377678 www.apt.arezzo.it Bagno a Ripoli [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro and Paolo (29 June) Bike rental Palio delle Contrade and Giostra della Alinari Stella (September) Bike and scooter rental Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500 Bagno a Ripoli - Grassina www.alinarirental.com Re-enactment of the Passion of Christ (Good Friday) Rent Way P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r Bucine 50122 - Florence Feast of the Patron Saint, San Salvatore Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820 (third Sunday of September) www.rentway.it - [email protected] Figline Valdarno Florence by bike Cantamaggio (end of May) Bike and scooter rental Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo Via San Zanobi, 120/122r (6 July) Tel. e Fax: 055 488992 Festa del perdono and Palio di San Rocco www.florencebybike.it (first Sunday of September) B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental) Incisa Valdarno Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4 Festa del Perdono, Palio dei renaioli e 50126 Florence delle lavandaie (the Friday and Tuesday Tel: 348 2644190 nearest to the third Sunday of September) www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Alessandro [email protected] (6 April) Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental) Via del Carota, 3 Laterina 50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923 and Cassiano (18 August) www.lecivetteresort.it Nativity Scenes in Laterina (December) [email protected] Laterina Ponticino Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental) Palio della rana (last Sunday in June) Via Montelfi, 1 50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence) Montevarchi 228 Tel: 055 8335143 Festa del Perdono, Gioco del pozzo www.agriturismobellavista.com (first week in September) [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo (10 August) Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental) Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi Pontassieve 52027 - San Giovanni Valdarno (AR) Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804 Arcangelo (29 September) Cell: 335 1250857 www.agriturismovalleverde.com Rignano sull’Arno [email protected] Festa del Perdono (September) Feast of the Patron Saint, San Leolino Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental) (12 November) Via Poggetto, 143 50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence) San Giovanni Valdarno Tel: 055 8327323 Festa del Perdono www.campingilpoggetto.com (first Sunday after 13 September) [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni (24 June) Events and fairs Rificolona (7 September) Arezzo Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato Terranova Bracciolini (7 August) Festa del Perdono (September) Giostra del Saracino Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio (June and September) (13 June) 6TH ITINERARY

THE STRADA 229 DEI SETTE PONTI Via Sancti Petri

The strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve was of notable importance for Florence because, besides connecting the city with the towns on the right side of the upper Valdarno - where the road going to Arezzo, the so-called Via dei Sette Ponti, ran - it also connected, in Pontassieve, with the easternmost of the routes crossing the Apennines in the Florentine countryside: the road leading to Forli by way of Dicomano, San Godenzo, and the Alpe di San Benedetto. Because of this, in the 14th- century list of main roads and routes contained in the Statuto del Capitano del Popolo, it is also defined as the road that vadit versus Decomanum. 6TH ITINERARY THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI Via Sancti Petri

Porta San Gallo Pontassieve (Florence)

Pieve a Pitiana

Pian di Scò

Loro Ciuffenna

Quarata Laterina

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

230

THE ITINERARY

Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence) End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Elevation gain:

500 450 400

350 San Giovenale (CAI trail) 300 250 Junction with SP1 200 dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve Valle 150

100 Porta San Gallo (Florence) 50 00 WALKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 106,5 Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve Waypoints: Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci Distance: km 20.9 Page 236 Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini Distance: km 17.6 Page 242 Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò Waypoints: San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello, San Giovenale (CAI trail) Distance: km 18 Page 246 Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna Distance: km 19.2 Page 250 Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina Waypoints: Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli Distance: km 19.3 Page 254 Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano Distance: km 11.5 Page 258 Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Distance: km 5.5

The tour takes place mainly on asphalt secondary roads, and partially on grass 231 and gravel paths. The route is well-marked; there are no problems of orientation. The hilly and piedmont area through which the route passes means that some legs (the Porta San Gallo-Pontassieve one and the Pontassieve-Pieve a Pitiana one) have substantial differences in elevation. This route unwinds in the hills of the Florentine Valdarno and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge. The landscape is of great beauty with hills characterized by vineyards and olive groves, as well as unique geomorphologic formations such as the Balze, or Gul- lies, of the Valdarno. Note: This tourist-like route is very simple from a technical point of view, although some legs are rather demanding from a physical one. 85% of the route goes along secondary asphalt roads with the remaining 15% on gravel and grass paths. There are no particular problems associated with the availability of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The route is well-marked and easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial road SP1, or the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two alternative routes are offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. It is recommended, however, that those walking along the route pay particular attention to complying with the rules of the road. The last stop on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds with the final leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary and a short stretch of it (from Quarata to Arezzo) is to be covered by bus. 6TH ITINERARY THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI Via Sancti Petri

Porta San Gallo Pontassieve (Florence)

Pian di Scò

Laterina

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

232

View of Florence BIKING ITINERARY

Distance (route): km 112 Level of technical difficulty: TC Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy List of legs: Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve Waypoints: piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci Distance: km 20.9 Page 236 Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pian di Scò Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini, Pieve a Pitiana, San Do- nato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello, San Giovenale (CAI trail)) Distance: km 35.6 Page 242 Leg 3: Pian di Scò – Laterina Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna, Loro Ciuffenna, Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli Distance: km 38.5 Page 250 Leg 4: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo) Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata Distance: km 17 Page 258

A bike tour itinerary, mostly on asphalt roads with some sections on slightly rough and uneven gravel roads (level of technical difficulty, MC) for bikers with average technical ability. This route unwinds in the hills of the Florentine Val- darno and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge. The landscape is of great beauty characterized by vineyards and olive groves, as well as unique geomorphologic formations such as the Balze, or Gullies, of the Valdarno. Note: The course presents no particular technical difficulties, but requires good physical training because of the presence of steep climbs, especially on the leg from Florence to Pontassieve and the successive one that goes from Pontassieve to Pieve a Pitiana. 85% of the itinerary is also suitable for racing bikes, whereas 233 in bumpy and uneven gravel stretches, it is necessary to use mountain bikes or robust city bikes. There are no particular problems associated with the availability of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The track is well-marked and easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial road SP1, also referred to as the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two alternative routes are offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. The last leg on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds with the final part of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.

Landscape along the route 234 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI Ancient roadtoSettignano to Rome. the Casentinoandhaddecidedadvantageofleadingdirectly dell’Alpe diSerra,aroute toRomethatcrossed theApenninesin goods, butnotsomanypilgrims,whopreferred insteadtheVia a waythatoverthecenturiessawpassageoftravelersand Apennines and led to Romagna via the Alpe di San Benedetto, bey ofSanGodenzo.Thiswastheroute whichcrossed overthe tributary asfarDicomano,thencontinuingtowards theAb- a route totherightfollowed thelowercourseofArno’s main After crossing theSieveRiver, ontheMedicibridgebuiltin1555, Pontassieve). ish church, locatedshortly before Sant’AngelodiSieve(namely, and LeSieci)whosechurches were suffragan totheRemolepar road were villages(Terenzano, Compiobbi,SanDonatoaTorri, Alongthe that expandedlengthwise,closelyfollowingtheArno. lages thatwere partofthe parish were indeedlocatedinanarea developed alongthisroute. Itwas nocoincidencethenifthevil- River. Thesuburban parishofSanGiovanniBattistaaRemole Burgo SanctiPetriMaioris)andproceeded parallel to theArno The road startedfrom thecitysuburbofSanPierMaggiore (a the substantialremnants ofitsancient defensesystem. military strongholds oftheFlorentine state,asstillattested by transformed intotheterrasivecastriSanctiAngeli,oneof flows into the Arno, in the second half of the 14 flows into the Arno, formed nearthebridgethatcrossed theSieveRiverjustbefore it Pontassieve wasthenamajorcrossroads; from thesimplevillage Stronghold Pontassieve: andMilitary aCrossroads th century it was - The Via dei Sette Ponti (namely, the Road of the Seven Bridges)

Near Pontassieve was also the Via dei Sette Ponti. Probably of Etruscan origin, this road was especially busy in the central part of the Middle Ages, not only because of the connections between Florence and the emerging centers in the surrounding countryside scattered on the slopes of Pratomagno but, to some extent, also as a route to Rome that, from Arezzo, offered the opportunity of following the Via dell’Alpe di Serra, an important alternative to the Via Francigena. It is no coincidence, therefore, that a document from the end of the 10th century recalls the Via dei Sette Ponti as via Sancti Petri, i.e., a route used by pilgrims going to Rome. The road unwound along the Pratomagno foothills and was dotted by a significant array of rural churches (the close relationship between parish churches and the road network has been ascer- tained): San Pietro a Pitiana, San Pietro a Cascia, Santa Maria a Scò, San Pietro a Gropina, and San Giustino Valdarno. As a whole, these churches are the most important examples of Ro- manesque religious architecture in the Valdarno region. Past the parish church of San Giustino, near Castiglion Fibocchi, and before arriving in Arezzo, the road crossed the Arno on the majestic Buriano bridge, which has preserved its powerful medieval structure with seven wide arches.

Parish Church of Gropina

235 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 1: PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence) PONTASSIEVE

Starting point of LEG 1 Castelnuovo Il Mulinaccio Le Falle Pievecchia Calcinaia San Martino Montebeni Piazza Edison a Quona Settignano Magnale Le Sieci Compiobbi Porta San Gallo La Valle PontassieveRosano San Jacopo al Girone

236

Landscape along the route WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 480 Distance: km 20.9 Travel time: 6h30’ This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads that run along the hills of the Florentine Valdarno. The route is thus readily identifiable and there are no orientation problems or difficulties in finding it. The leg crosses through hills characterized by alternating olive groves and vineyards, with scattered farm houses and historic villas. The route offers views of scenic interest (the hills between Settignano and Compiobbi and between Sieci and San Martino a Quona). Note: The leg is fairly physically demanding as there are many variations in al- titude and because of the distance of this leg. In Pontassieve, one can continue by train to Contea in the municipality of Dicomano, (19 min) to stay at the Convent of San Detole.

Transport: Florence Settignano Compiobbi Le Sieci Pontassieve To be seen: Church of San Martino a Mensola Panorama of Florence from Piazza Desiderio da Settignano Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista a Remole Detour ( from Sieci) to the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso

237

LEGS

238 Church ofSanMartinoaMensola of Settignano. di Settignanothat,linedbywalls,leadstothepicturesque village that gives the place its name, we take the so-called dieval church richinprecious paintings.Aftercrossing theriver that stretches atthefootof theSettignanohill,withitsearlyme- first toCoverciano andthento Ponte aMensola,thevillage Next weproceed GabrieleD’Annunziothatleadsus alongVia BenedettodaMaiano. delCantonewhichthenbecomesVia Via Lungol’Affrico;Righi asfarthebeginningofVia here wetake Augusto path takes us to Piazza Edison. Then we go along Viale AlessandroHere intoViale Volta weturn where anotherbike using the Le Cure railway underpass, we reach Piazza delle Cure. DonMinzoni.Then, Piazza dellaLibertàthatrunsalongViale To reach thesuburbsofFlorence, wetakethebikepathfrom Time: 1h10’

4.5 km Porta San Gallo (Florence)

Time: 40’ Ponte a Mensola 1.1 km

Settignano Time: 10’ 0.6 km

Time: 1h Terenzano 3.4 km

Time: 1h15’ Compiobbi 4 km

Parish Church of San Giovanni

Time: 1h25’ Battista a Remole - Le Sieci 3.8 km

Church of San Martino a Quona Time: 50’ 3.5 km Via Vecchia

Pontassieve 239 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1 240 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1 Along theArnonearPontassieve well asapilgrims’hospicededicatedtoSaintMary. 13 of Terenzano, with its Romanesque church and the remains of traveling through a hilly area and coming to the small village From Settignano,wetaketheCAItrailtoreach Compiobbi, that inthe14 derived from itsbeingaregional crossroads. Itisnocoincidence large walled town of theFlorentine republic whose importance a Quona,from where, shortly after, we come to Pontassieve, a Remole Farmandthenonward tothe Church ofSanMartino to Le Sieci, we leave the state roadReturning to climb to the age whichhadyetaconsiderablelocalimportance. Oratory oftheMadonnadelSasso,alesserplacepilgrim- via MolindelPianoandpast the parishchurch ofLobaco, tothe the riverfrom whichthesmall townderiveditsnameandleads, From LeSieci,aroad branchesoff thatgoesupthecourseof manesque Sieci; here leads us to the Ro- a pedestrian path along the Arno following itforashortdistanceasfarthesmalltownofLe San DonatoaTorri andthenreturntothestateroadEllera, in toPontassieve,fromthe Arno Compiobbiwegouptowards To avoidheavilytrafficked StateRoad67thatrunsalongside th Time: 1h10’ -centurytower-houses. 4.5 km Porta San Gallo (Florence) Parish Church ofSanGiovanni BattistaaRemole.

Time: 40’ Ponte a Mensola 1.1 km th century, Pontassieve hadseveralinnkeepersas

Settignano Time: 10’ 0.6 km

Time: 1h Terenzano 3.4 km

Time: 1h15’ Compiobbi 4 km

Parish Church of San Giovanni

Time: 1h25’ Battista a Remole - Le Sieci 3.8 km

Church of San Martino a Quona Time: 50’ 3.5 km

Pontassieve DEVOTION

The Madonna Appearing to Two Young Shepherdesses On the location where the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso now stands there was originally a tabernacle, known as the Her- mit’s. Beginning in the 11th century, its veneration so intensified that it became necessary to build a small oratory. Here, tradition has it, the Madonna appeared to two young shepherdesses in 1484. The request for a larger church in which to dispense graces to those deserving them was expressed by the Madonna herself and confirmed in a grand appearance to the entire congregation gathered in prayer on 22 August, 1485. This was the origin of the sanctuary’s current complex, consisting of two main buildings: the lower oratory (or Chapel of the Apparitions) and the upper oratory (or New Church); the latter, a larger building with a Greek-cross plan, was renovated in the Baroque period. Other buildings were added over the centuries to meet the needs of the growing number of pilgrims who flocked to the sanctuary: a portico, the chaplain’s house, the rooms of the companies, and a slaughterhouse. The latter was the place where animals were sacrificed in rites of propitiation and of thanksgiving in May and during harvests.

Drawing of the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso

241 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 2: PONTASSIEVE PIEVE A PITIANA

Risalpiano

La Fornace Starting point Diacceto of LEG 2 San Francesco Ferrano

Monsecco Pelago Certina

Pontassieve Le Palaie Corte

Paterno

Tosi Pagiano

Poggio al Secolo Masseto

Donnini LEG 2 to 242 Pian di Scò Pieve a Pitiana see page 246

The Medicean Bridge in Pontassieve WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Medium Climb: m 630 Distance: km 17.6 Travel time: 5h40’

75% of this leg is along asphalt roads with the remaining 25% on farm car- troads. There are thus no problems in identifying the route. This leg follows narrow dirt tracks amidst vineyards of remarkable beauty. Note: This leg is technically simple but physically challenging, due to significant elevation gain variations. The route follows some parts of the Via dei Sette Ponti, where particular attention must be paid to motor vehicles and the rules of the road must be observed.

Transport: Pontassieve Diacceto Pelago Paterno Pieve a Pitiana To be seen: Nipozzano Castle, wine cellar and vineyards Village of Pelago San Martino a Pagiano Parish Church of San Pietro a Pitiana

243

LEGS

244 Parish ChurchofPitiana 16 After crossing theSieveRiveratPontassieveoverancient with onenaveandtwoaisles. which preserves tracesof theoriginalRomanesquestructure route toarriveattheParishChurch ofSanPietro aPitiana, reach inDonnini.We continue on theancientandwinding We goupinthedirection oftheSettePontiRoad,whichwe at amedievalbridgethatcrosses diSant’Ellero theVicano River. that leads to the siteofaVallombrosan grange,andthenasecondary route From Pelago,wetaketheroad,avillagethatwas toPaterno way ofPalaieVecchie. lel ofthestateroad, leadingtoDiaccetoandthenPelagoby suburb ofPontassieve,andtakeasecondaryroad, from aparal- th -century bridge,wepassthesmalltownofSanFrancesco,a Pontassieve Time: 1h20’ 4.4 km San Martino a Pagiano, a small village that rose

Nipozzano castle Time: 1h25’ 4.1 km

Pelago Time: 55’ 2.7 km

Paterno Time: 1h40’ 5.2 km

Donnini Time: 20’ 1.2 km

Pieve a Pitiana 245 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 2 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 3: PIEVE A PITIANA PIAN DI SCO’

Continuing of LEG 2 see page 242 Pieve a Pitiana Trana I Fali

Trebbiali San Donato in Fronzano I Sorbi

La Fabbrica

La Corte Parish Church of Sant’Agata

Poggio Giubbiani Cancelli

Reggello

Cascia

Borgo a Cascia Tallini

San Giovenale (CAI trail)

Casa Biondo Ferraia

246

Pian di Scò

Ancient bridge over the Resco River in Pian di Scò WALKING ITINERARY

Elenco: San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello, San Giovenale (CAI trail) Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 250 Distance: km 18 Travel time: 5h05’

The leg goes mainly along the Via dei Setteponti and only partly along CAI trails. Therefore the route is easily identified without problems of orientation. This leg is not particularly challenging. Note: Along the SP1 road, pay attention to the traffic and follow the rules of the road regarding pedestrians traveling on out-of-town roads. To join up with the CAI trail that starts from San Giovenale, we cross the stone bridge and turn right; then, turn right under the bridge after about 30 m.

Transport: Pieve a Pitiana Pian di Scò To be seen: Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia, Reggello Parish Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli Abbey of Vallombrosa ( Reggello)

247

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Pieve a Pitiana Porta San Gallo Pontassieve Pian di Scò Loro Ciuffenna Laterina Pian di Scò Pontassieve pieve a Pitiana Loro Ciuffenna Laterina Arezzo 248 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 3 Parish ChurchofSantaMaria the 15 to St.John,foundinthemarketsquare, wasdocumentedin Reggello, avillagewhere theexistenceofahospicededicated through community intheMiddleAges.We continuealongaswepass esque take thesecondaryroad totheright,whichleadsRoman- along, wearriveinSanDonatoFronzano. Shortlyafterwe Leaving the parish church of San Pietro a Pitiana and continuing of themainRomanesquebuildingsinValdarno. Scò, builtaround theParishChurch ofSantaMaria , another the Resco Rivers. Thetrail then brings us tothevillage of Pian di medieval bridgesthatcross, respectively, theBorro Pilanoand In first recorded inthe14 buildings of the Valdarno. A hospice was annexed to it and was San Pietro aCascia,oneofthemostimportantRomanesque Continuing pastReggello,wecometotheParishChurch of San Giovenale,wetaketheCAItrailalongwhichare two

Time: 1h50’ Pieve a Pitiana th Church ofSant’AgatainArfoli,theseatacanonical 6.5 km century. Cancelli where weagaintakeuptheSettepontiroadin

Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli Time: 1h15’ 4.3 km th centuryasadormentorioplebisCascie.

Reggello Time: 20’ 1.5 km

Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia Time: 1h40’ 5.7 km

Pian di Scò NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

The Abbey of Vallombrosa Shortly before arriving in Reggello, a road on the left goes up the slopes of Pratomagno and, near the ridge, reaches Vallombrosa, one of the destinations on the alternative roads of our itinerary. It was precisely in Vallombrosa that Saint John Gualbert retired in 1036; he was the founder of the reformed Benedictine order which took its name from this location. The first monastic community of the new congregation was established here and, between the 11th and 13th centuries, it spread in Tuscany and in most of north-central Italy. The impressive architectural complex of the abbey stands against the backdrop of a mountainous landscape; it is the result of sub- sequent reconstructions and expansions that occurred over the centuries and which essentially ended in the first half of the 17th century with the work of Gherardo Silvani, the architect also re- sponsible for the Baroque-style renovation of the abbey church. The hub of the Vallombrosan congregation, the abbey, is full of memories related to Benedictine spirituality as well as works of art mostly from the 17th and 18th centuries. The forest of Vallombrosa that frames the abbey is a further reason in favor of the alternative route that we are suggesting.

Abbey of Vallombrosa

249 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 4: PIAN DI SCÒ LORO CIUFFENNA

Starting point of LEG 3

Pian di Scò

Pulicciano

Faellina

Caspri Castelfranco di Sopra

Certignano LEG 3 to Laterina Piantravigne HISTORICAL ITINERARY see page 254

Treggia Persignano Loro Ciuffenna

Poggitazzi

Montemarciano

Villa Rioﬁ Poderino Penna

250

Pernina

Soffena Abbey in Castelfranco di Sopra WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 230 Distance: km 19.2 Travel time: 5h 20’

This tourist-style leg initially goes along the ancient Setteponti road which we later leave to follow an alternative route immediately after Certignano, heading southwest towards Piantravigne. We then go south again towards Penna to then head north towards Loro Ciuffenna. This leg is characterized by the many panoramic points over the agricultural landscape of the upper Valdarno and its characteristic pinnacles of eroded clay typical of the Valdarno Gullies. The stretch winds in the foothills with some elevation gains. The route presents no particular technical difficulties. Note: The water supply is provided by the refreshment structures that exist along the route. This leg is more appropriate for cycling than hiking.

Transport: Pian di Scò Castelfranco di Sopra Loro Ciuffenna To be seen: Village of Castelfranco di Sopra Village of Loro Ciuffenna Clay gullies of Piantravigne

251

LEGS

252 Stone-paved roadalongtheway over whichtheSettePontiroadcrosses theCiuffenna River. portant markettown,ithasretained apicturesque medievalbridge Then wecometothevillageofLoro Ciuffenna ; previously anim- congregation. San Salvatore aSoffena that belonged to the Vallombrosan most intact. Not far from the town is the 13 original urbanplanandfortificationshavebeenpreserved al- va” foundedbytheFlorentines intheearly14 road, untilwecometoCastelfrancodiSoprathe“terranuo- After PiandiScò,wecontinuetowindalongtheSettePonti

Time: 1h Pian di Scò 4.1 km Time: 25’

1.6 km Castelfranco di Sopra

Certignano Time: 15’ 0.8 km

Piantravigne Time: 50’ 3.3 km

Villa Riofi Time: 1h35’ 5.7 km th -century Penna th century, whose Time: 1h15 3.7 km Abbey of

Loro Ciuffenna 253 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 4 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 5: LORO CIUFFENNA LATERINA

Loro Ciuffenna

Continuing of LEG 3

Gropina see page 250

Penna

Paterna San Giustino

La Casaccia Traiana

Cicogna Campogialli Ricastelli HISTORICAL ITINERARY

Castiglion Fibocchi

Monticello Laterina

Casanuova Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve

Montalto Podere Stefanelli 254

View of Loro Ciuffenna WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 100

Loro Ciuffenna Distance: km 19.3 Travel time: 5h15’ Continuing of LEG 3

Gropina see page 250 This is a tourist-style leg that goes mainly along narrow and winding asphalt roads. Some stretches of dirt road are encountered near the village of Gropina, in the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve as well as in the stretch between Laterina and the provincial road. The leg offers panoramic points on the Val- Penna darno. There are therefore no orientation difficulties or problems in identifying the route. The route does not have technical difficulties. Paterna San Giustino Note: After a short initial climb, this leg descends to the small village of Gropina. We continue along the SP1 in a southerly direction and after about 2 km, we La Casaccia Traiana leave the historical route to continue downhill to Monticello. After the bridge over Lake Levane, we climb through the oak woods to re-join the historic Via Cicogna Vecchia Aretina in Ponte Romito. We continue to follow it for 2.8 km before Campogialli reaching Laterina. Along the leg, there are restaurants, bars and fountains that Ricastelli HISTORICAL ITINERARY provide water.

Transport: Castiglion Fibocchi Monticello Loro Ciuffenna Monticello Laterina Laterina To be seen:

Casanuova Monumental Parish Church of Gropina Valle dell’Inferno Visitor Center, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve - Monticello and Bandella Nature Reserve Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve

Montalto Podere Stefanelli Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina) Walk along the ancient castle walls with a panorama of the lower Valdarno 255

LEGS

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3 Leg 4 Leg 5 Leg 6 Porta San Gallo Pontassieve pieve a Pitiana Pian di Scò Loro Ciuffenna Laterina Pontassieve pieve a Pitiana Pian di Scò Loro Ciuffenna Laterina Arezzo 256 www.vieromee.it 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 5 Parish ChurchofSanGiustino Laterina, weretrace theroute ofLeg5the cello and theValle and BandellaReserve. Beyond dell’Inferno Our route insteadheadsfor Laterina,passingCicogna,Monti- almost intactitsoriginalRomanesquecharacteristics. ymous village of follow thehistoricroute alongtheSettepontiroadandvisit After Gropina, continuingontheslopesofPratomagno,wecan ings intheTuscan countryside. unquestionably oneofthemostimportantRomanesquebuild- deur ofitslayoutandthecomplexiconographycapitals–is Church ofSanPietro aGropina, achurch that–forthegran- Not farfrom Loro Ciuffenna standsthemonumentalParish arrive inArezzo (showninthefollowing pages).

Time: 40’ Loro Ciuffenna 1.8 km parish church withabasilicaplanthathasmaintained San Giustino Valdarno, in which we find the homon - Time: 1h20’

5.3 km Parish Church of San Pietro a Gropina Time: 1h15’

4.8 km Cicogna

Monticello Time: 30’ 1.8 km

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve Time: 1h 3.8 km

Podere Stefanelli th Time: 30’ itineraryto 1.8 km

Laterina Above: Parish Church of Gropina / Below: Stone-paved road along the way

257 6TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI

Leg 6: LATERINA QUARATA (AREZZO)

HISTORICAL ITINERARY

Castiglion Fibocchi

Godiola Junction with SP1

Ponte a Buriano Rondine Quarata Patrignone Laterina Monte Sopra Rondine

Indicatore Pratai

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)

258

The Arno along the route WALKING ITINERARY

List of waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano Level of technical difficulty: T Level of physical difficulty: Easy Climb: m 170 Distance: km 11.5 Travel time: 3h15’

Tourist-style leg that proceeds mainly on asphalt roads. Some dirt sections are encountered shortly after Laterina and at the detour from the Via Vecchia Aret- ina that leads to Rondine. The route is well marked and poses no difficulties or orientation problems. Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti provincial road, we come to the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km. From this point people traveling on foot are advised to proceed to Arezzo by bus (www.etruriamobilita.it). This leg corresponds to the last leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.

Transport: Laterina Ponte a Buriano Quarata Arezzo To be seen: Village of Rondine Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve Ponte a Buriano Arezzo

259

LEGS

The Via dell’Alpe di Serra From the 13th century on, the Via dell’Alpe di Serra was especially busy owing to the increased importance of traffic from central Europe. Documentary sources from the 13th century consider it one of the main pilgrim routes to Rome, and indeed indicate it as the best route (the “melior via”), especially for pilgrims and travelers from the Germanic world. The Annales Stadenses (mid-13th century), considered the most comprehensive guide to Rome of the Middle Ages, besides suggesting it to pilgrims to Rome, show the succession of stopping places between Bologna and Rome, which permits us to broadly reconstruct the route. After passing Forlì and Bagno di Romagna, the road climbed the Apennines, and crossed them at the Alpe di Serra pass. It then descended to the Casentino, reaching first, Subbiano and then, Arezzo. Then it continued to Cortona, Città della Pieve, and Orvieto. From the latter, one could reach nearby Montefiascone where the Via Fran- cigena leading to Rome passed.

View of Poppi and the Casentino

260 ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION

Florence Settignano B&B Guardalaluna Ostello di Florence Via Marconi, 109 - Poggio Bonetti, 5 Viale Augusto Righi, 2/4 52026 Pian di Sco’ 50137 Florence Tel: 055 9631006 Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300 Fax: 0559631006 [email protected] www.guardalaluna.com

Villa Morghen Parrocchia S.Maria Assunta Via Feliceto, 8 a Pian di Scò 50135 Settignano 52026 Pian di Sco’ Tel: 055 697362 Tel: 055 960133 www.villamorghen.com Loro Ciuffenna Pontassieve Affittacamere Il Torricino Albergo I Villini Via Valdascione, 1 Viale Diaz, 28 52020 Laterina 50065 Pontassieve Tel: 0575 89219 Tel: 055 8368140 - Fax: 055 8368140 [email protected] Agriturismo Fattoria Isola www.ivillini.it Via Aretina, 70 52020 Laterina Convento di Sandetole Tel: 0575 894785 Via A. Cecchini, 46 50060 Contea - Dicomano Agriturismo Il Mulinaccio Tel: 055 8389789 - Fax: 055 8389514 Mulinaccio, 64 Cell: 335 7747903 52024 Loro Ciuffenna [email protected] Tel: 055 9139278 www.sandetole.it www.mulinaccio.com

Parrocchia San Giovanni Gualberto Agriturismo Il Poggerello Via Algeri, 5 Via Penna, 14 50065 Pontassieve 52020 Laterina Tel: 055 8368150 Cell: 335 6839009 parroco 055 8313356 Agriturismo Toscana Verde Podere Palazzuolo Via Penna, 2 Via di Gricigliano, 47 52020 Laterina 261 Le Falle - Sieci Tel: 0575 89571 50065 Pontassieve Fax: 0575 895750 Tel: 055 8309812 [email protected] [email protected] www.toscanaverde.com www.poderepalazzuolo.it Ostello Orma di lupo Pieve a Pitiana via Vin de Nuvoli - la Trappola Pieve di Pitiana 52024 Loro Ciuffenna 50066 Reggello www.ormadilupo.it Tel: 055 860039 Arezzo Villa Pitiana Agriturismo Affittacamere Camera Caffè Via Provinciale per Tosi, 7 Via Guido Monaco, 92 50060 Donnini 52100 Arezzo Tel: 055 860259 - Fax: 055 860326 Cell: 347 0324405 - 392 5911326 [email protected] [email protected] www.villapitiana.com www.cameracaffe.net

Pian di Scò Casa vacanze Il Pascione Agriturismo Fattoria Gravanella Via Setteponti, 40 Strada Provinciale 7 ponti, 59 52100 Arezzo 52026 Pian di Sco’ Tel: 0575 356128 Cell: 328 1542424 - Fax: 055 960053 Cell: 334 9557291 [email protected] www.ilpascione.it Foresteria I Pratacci Ufficio Turismo Castelfranco di Sopra Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci c/o Biblioteca “Aldo Merlini” 52100 Arezzo Piazza Livio Sati, 2 Tel: 0575 383338 52020 Castelfranco di Sopra (Arezzo) Fax: 0575 324219 Tel: 055 9149392 Cell: 335 7505504 www.comune.castelfranco-di-sopra.ar.it/ www.foresteriarezzo.com [email protected]

Foresteria San Pier Piccolo Loro Ciuffenna UIT Via Bicchieraia, 32 (Tourist Information Office) 52100 Arezzo Piazza Matteotti, 7 Tel: 0575 324219 52024 Loro Ciuffenna (Arezzo) www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it Tel: 0559170136 www.comune.loro-ciuffenna.ar.it Fraternità San Lorenzo [email protected] Pomaio 52100 Arezzo Pro Loco Loro Ciufenna Tel: 0575 793811 piazza Garibaldi, 52024 - Loro Ciuffenna Ostello Villa Severi Tel: 055 9172771 Via F. Redi, 13 52100 Arezzo Laterina Tourist Information Office Tel: 0575 299047 Tel: 0575 880120 - Fax: 0575 894626 [email protected] TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist Information, Pontassieve PIT (Tourist information Point) Municipality of Castiglion Fibocchi Via Tanzini, 30 Tel: 0575 47484 50065 Pontassieve (Florence) www.comune.castiglionfibocchi.ar.it Tel: 0558360232 www.Florenceturismo.it UPT San Giovanni Valdarno [email protected] Piazza Cavour, 3 Tel: 055 943748 - Tel. e Fax: 055 9121123 Tourist information, Municipality of Pela- [email protected] go Viale Rimembranza, 9 50060 Pelago (Florence) Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini Tel: 055 8326236 Tel: 0559194705 262 Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays: Tourist Information Point 8.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m. Terranuova Bracciolini www.comune.pelago.fi.it Tel: 055 9738828 [email protected] www.terraospitale.it [email protected] Reggello PIT (Tourist information Point) Piazza IV Novembre, 3 APT di Arezzo 50066 Reggello (Florence) Piazza Risorgimento, 116 Tel: 0558669368 52100 Arezzo www.comune.reggello.fi.it Tel: 0575239523 www.Florenceturismo.it www.apt.arezzo.it [email protected] [email protected] Fiesole UIT (Tourist Information Office) Via Portigiani, 3 Infopoint di Arezzo 50014 Fiesole (Florence) Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo Tel: 055 598720 Tel: 0575377829 www.Florenceturismo.it www.apt.arezzo.it [email protected] Arezzo UIT (Tourist Information Office) Municipality of Pian di Scò Piazza della Repubblica, 28 Piazza del Municipio, 3 52100 Arezzo 52026 Pian di Sco’ (Arezzo) Tel: 0575 377678 Tel: 055 9631290 www.apt.arezzo.it www.comune.pian-di-sco.ar.it [email protected] Bike Rentals Events and fairs Mille e una bici Service sponsored by the City of Florence Arezzo in collaboration with Florence Parcheggi Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato s.p.a. providing affordable bicycle rentals (7 August) in Florence at 8 locations. Giostra del Saracino Tel: 055 5001994 (June and September)

Alinari Castelfranco di Sopra Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso Bike and scooter rental (3 July) Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500 www.alinarirental.com Castiglion Fibocchi Feast of the Madonna del Rosario Florence by bike (October) Bike and scooter rental Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro e Via S. Zanobi, 120/122r Paolo (29 June) Tel. e Fax: 055 488992 www.florencebybike.it Fiesole Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo Rent Way (6 July) P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r San Francesco Fair 50122 - Florence (first Sunday of October) Tel: 0552398890 - Cell: 3339619820 www.rentway.it Laterina [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito e Cassiano (18 August) B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental) Nativity scenes in Laterina (December) Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4 50126 Florence Laterina Ponticino Cell: 348 2644190 Palio della rana (Last Sunday in June) www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com [email protected] Loro Ciuffenna Festa del Perdono (September) Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental) Via del Carota, 3 Loro Ciuffenna San Giustino 50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) Festa del Perdono (July) Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923 Pelago www.lecivetteresort.it 263 Feast of the Patron Saint, San Clemente [email protected] (23 November) Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental) Pian di Scò Via Montelfi, 1 Festa del Perdono (4-8 August) 50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence) Feast of the Assumption (15 August) Tel: 055 8335143 www.agriturismobellavista.com Pontassieve [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele Arcangelo (29 September) Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental) San Lorenzo Fair (10 August) Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi Palio della Botte (September) 52027 San Giovanni Valdarno (Arezzo) Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804 Reggello Cell: 335 1250857 Rificolona (7 September) www.agriturismovalleverde.com Feast of the Patron Saint, San Jacopo, [email protected] (25 July)

Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental) Vaggio, near Reggello Via Poggetto, 143 Festa del Perdono in Vaggio (July) 50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence) Tel: 055 8327323 Terranova Bracciolini www.campingilpoggetto.com Festa del Perdono (25-29 September) [email protected] Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio (13 June)

Edited by Renato Stopani TUSCANY Pilgrim in the Florentine countryside routes

www.vieromee.it

Pilgrim

€ 14,00 routes in the Florentine countryside Edited by Renato Stopani

TUSCANY