B UDAPEST THE B UDAPEST T IMES The National Theatre by night

Vigadó tér

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EXPLORE BY PUBLIC T RANSPORT – PART 1 A view to die for, and thousands did

While we’ve had fun over the last month showing our readers how best to “Explore Budapest by Metro”, the city has even more to o#er and even more ways to get there! In a special, four-part supplementary series, The Budapest Times looks at how best to “Explore Budapest by Public Transport”.

Suggested Route: Jászai Mari tér-Szalay utca-Kossuth Lajos tér-Széchenyi tér-Eötvös tér- !"#$&'_)*+W)-!./&01&'_)*2 4W5&'_)*67)W)7/&'_)*8:4W";c$

Sites to See: Hungarian Parliament, Széchenyi Chain Bridge, “ on the Bank” monument, , Vigadó Concert Hall, Váci utca, Central Market Hall, Gellért Hill, Gellért Thermal Baths, Zwack Museum of Unicum, of Arts, National Theatre.

LEE REANEY and fro. In fact, the trams carry nearly ter way to begin our series than with a 275,000 more people than the metro – look at Budapest’s Tram #2? every single day. That’s enough to qual- hile the sys- ify as ’s second-largest city! A few things you never knew tem, with its UNESCO-rec- While there are more than 30 lines about the trams… Wognised Millennium Line, that cover more than 150 kilometres seems to get much of the publicity, it is of our capital, there may be none more The fame of the Millennium Line really the iconic yellow trams, the ones iconic, none more lovely than Tram #2 metro – the second oldest in the world that chug up and down the scenic city- – a tourist site unto itself. So what bet- – does indeed mean the tram network scape like lazy, lemon-drop lemmings, is too often overlooked. This is despite that really lend the city its classic, old- the fact the system holds several sig- That’s a lot: The Budapest tram network world charm. nificant records, such as the busi- carries 275,000 more passengers than But the Budapest tram system is est tram line in Europe (with a tram the Budapest metro system – every more than just charismatic carriages running every 60 seconds during rush designed to add a certain “je ne sais day. That’s more people than Hungary’s hour) and the longest tram carriage in quoi” atmosphere to the city; they act second-largest city, Debrecen. the world (the articulated carriages are as integral arteries moving locals to up to 53 metres long). 

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Established in 1866 with a horse- considered to be among the most scenic drawn line between Újpest-Varoskapu tram routes in all of the world. Here are Where’s Guinness?: The Budapest tram along Váci utca to Kalvin tér – near a couple of pointers before the tour be- network is the busiest in Europe and fea- parallel to the Tram Line #2 that we gins: (1) Be sure to pick up an all-day tures the longest carriages in the world. are featuring today – the city’s tram ticket so that you can jump on and off at system has grown to among the world’s your leisure. For more on transit fares, largest with 33 different lines cover- see Part One of our Explore Budapest by We recommend getting out here and ing 156 kilometres. The system at one Metro series; (2) Try to find a seat on the taking a tour inside Parliament (HUF point had grown as large as 83 sepa- side of the tram nearer to the Danube. 2000-5200), but be sure to also check rate lines, but with the completion of You’ll find the best views from there; out the highlights of Kossuth Lajos tér, metro lines two, three and four – which (3) A one-way trip, without jumping off including its statuesque Ethnograph- were featured in previous articles in to see any sites, runs about 25 minutes. ic Museum, the memorial to the 1956 this series – the reliance on trams has You’ll probably want to do the return trip Hungarian Revolution and the Kos- lessened and the network tapered to though, to get back to central Pest; and suth Memorial to the Regent-President its current size. (4) The trip offers spectacular panoram- of the Kingdom of Hungary during the The system is once again growing in ic views of with its Castle District, 1848 Revolution, after whom the cen- popularity and necessity and there are and the Danube and its stately bridges. tral square is named. plans for continued expansion. So now We recommend taking a ride both Either walk over to the Kossuth La- that you know a little about its history, during the day and at night, as the jos tér tram stop, on the south side of why not head on over to Jászai Mari difference in views will be worth your Parliament, or get back on at Szalay tér to begin what National Geographic effort. If you have enough time only for utca for the short journey winding all has called the most beautiful tram ride one ride, we suggest jumping on a little around the square. Head to the next in Europe. before sunset, which makes the view stop, located at Széchenyi tér. On the along the majestic Danube among the way, muse on the “Shoes on the Dan- Nowhere better: In National Geographic‘s finest in all of Europe. ube Bank” monument that honours ranking of the world’s most scenic tram The tour begins at Jászai Mari tér, a Jews killed in World War II. The series rides, Budapest’s Tram #2 was rated the cosy little area near . of bronze shoes represents the story of Jews shot at the edge of the Danube best in Europe and #7 in the world. The bridge itself is a worthwhile visit (see our tour of Metro Line Three for so that their bodies would be carried more) and you can reach the tram stop away by the fast-flowing river. The Line #2 – The most beautiful taking a short 10-minute walk from spot also offers among the best sight- tram line in Europe Nyugati railway station metro stop. lines of the 13th-century World Herit- Get comfortable and get your camera age District (Metro Line Along with Amsterdam, Berlin and ready for some wonderful pictures as Two article). Lisbon, Budapest’s Tram Line #2 is the tram chugs its way south along the From Széchenyi tér you’ll be able to Danube to Szalay grab some wonderful shots of one of utca, on the north the symbols of the Hungarian capital, side of one of Buda- the Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge, pest’s most photo- Metro Line Two article). graphed sites – the majestic, neo-Gothic The promenade route Hungarian Parlia- ment building (Met- Before you leave, be sure to marvel at ro Line Two article). the opulence of one of Budapest’s finest

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examples of architecture at tér (see Metro Line Four). Located at Bartók National Concert Hall, Ludwig Mu- , at the rear of Széche- the base of the photo-friendly Liberty seum and Festival Theatre. The concert nyi tér, and then hop back on the tram Bridge, you’ll want to get off here and hall is notable for its pipe organ – one of the to head to Eötvös tér. This is where the check out the Central Market Hall. largest in Europe – that features over 6500 Danube (or Duna) Promenade begins. Among the most popular tourist venues different wooden, tin and reed pipes; while Popular among locals and tourists alike, in Budapest, this is the perfect place to you can find paintings from some of Hun- you’ll be just as likely to see beautiful, taste authentic and to gary’s finest artists, as well as Picasso and bright Budapesters out for a jog as you will pick up something for your loved ones. Yoko Ono, at the Ludwig Museum. scores of tourists fighting for the best pic- If the mood strikes you, head across tures of the Chain Bridge and Buda Castle. the bridge for a hike up Gellért Hill. There are a few worthwhile sites to see Light it up: Each year for Christmas, the

here, including the über-cool (and very city decorates Tram #2 in over 35,000 Name that bridge: The scenic Dan- inexpensive) Cave Church. The view fluorescent lights for a truly decorative ube tour takes you by six of Buda- from the summit offers maybe the best yuletide ride. pest’s 14 bridges. How many of them panoramic view you can find of Pest. can you name? After the hike, we recommend taking a Next door to the Palace of Arts is dip at the Gellért Thermal Baths across Budapest’s National Theatre. With its This wide pedestrian promenade has the street. One of the most famous spas roots dating back to 1837, the unique ample benches for sitting, some of the in a city known for its famous spas, the design of the new theatre, opened here most famous cafés and restaurants in Gellért offers several pools both inside and in 2002, features a spiralling pyramid the city, and several delightful statues, out and is most noted for its wonderful Art next to an ultra-trendy park that pays including one of István Széchenyi – after Nouveau glass-roofed main gallery. homage to the Hungarian drama and whom the famous Chain Bridge is named When you’ve finished relaxing, head film industry. – and one of William Shakespeare. back across the bridge and jump on the This completes your tour of Tram We recommend walking up to the next tram headed towards Boráros tér. This Line #2, but if you still have the time stop, Vigadó tér, where you will find an- )'2%3#+2,&' "#&'#'( #4&) #25#6 ' 57#897": 3#7)# or energy we recommend tacking on one other enchanting statue, this one of the your link to the Grand Boulevard. The icon- of four tours: (1) head back on Tram #2 Little Princess. Near to the little lady ic thoroughfare that encircles central Pest to Vörösmarty tér, which will lead you is the Vigadó Concert Hall, the popular that will be covered in next week’s article. to the Metro Line One tour; (2) jump home to prestigious balls, concerts and For anyone who is interested in Hun- on Tram #1 and take the 25-minute the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble. This garian history, a quirky museum or is ride to Ferenc Puskas Stadium to be- imposing Art Nouveau building is fondly just plain thirsty, we recommend taking gin the Metro Line Two tour; (3) jump known as “The Place for Merriment”. the 10-minute walk over to the Zwack on the HÉV suburban railway – locat- You are now near the heart of central Museum of Unicum to learn about the ed next to the tram stop – to Ráckeve. Pest, Vörösmarty tér (Metro Line One ar- national shot (see last month’s article). Located roughly 50 kilometres south of ticle), home to among the most renowned Why do we call this the viaduct route? Budapest, the site offers a wonderful cafés, restaurants and shopping in conti- Because the tram is running along a bridge 15th-century monastery (the Serbian nental Europe. From here you can walk between the river embankment and prom- Kovin Monastery), a stately Baroque down Váci utca (see Metro Line Three), enade that is known as a viaduct. The castle (Savoy Castle) and popular hik- the famed pedestrian-only street that structure itself dates back to 1900. ing trails; or (4) head back on Tram #2 to features top-end shopping and kitschy After whetting your thirst at the mu- Boráros tér or Jászai Mari tér, at either souvenir stores alike, or you can get back seum, jump back on the metro and head of which you can transfer to Trams #4 on the tram and head towards Március 15 down to the final stop on the Tram #2 or #6. Be sure to check out next week’s tér (15th of March Square). [Note: there tour – Közvágóhíd. Located near one issue for your guide to that route. is no platform for the southbound trains of the newest at Vigadó ter. You’ll need to wait on the bridges in Buda- northbound platform and cross the tracks pest, the Rákóczi when the southbound train stops.] Bridge, this stop The views of the 290-metre Elizabeth will take you to Bridge are pleasant, especially with the city’s Palace of the 140-metre high Gellért Hill and its Arts – one of the in the background. capital’s foremost centres of culture. The viaduct route The award - w i n n i n g No matter whether you take the 10,000-square- pedestrian route via Váci utca or the metre building was tram route via Március 15 tér, you’ll designed in 2005 !"# $%# &'# '( # )&* # %+&, # # . 0W*# and is home to the

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