6783 Greece 2010 Crete 134-147 21/11/09 12:20 Page 134 Greece | Crete Almirida Crete archaeology, and flora and fauna as Crete is a place apart – not Recommended Reading Crete Information yet largely unthreatened and you have just another Greek island, The Landscapes Series Getting to Crete a country worth a visit. These pocket-sized guides contain Tuesday Day flight Gatwick or more like a separate country. But the most striking aspect of this walks of all grades, car tours and Manchester to Chania. Then by coach picnic suggestions. Choose from or taxi – see resort description. Crete lies on the same land is its people. Shaped by Landscapes of Western Crete or For flight details see page 173. centuries of struggle against Eastern Crete. They cost £14 per book latitude as Tunisia with the Multi-Centre Options oppression, they are as rugged as the (incl. p&p) from: Most resorts can be mixed – suggest same baking hot summers; Sunflower Books (dept. SV), P.O. Box North with South coast, or Paleochora mountains, fiercely independent, and 115, Exeter EX2 6YU. passionately loyal to Crete and one with Loutro. East and West Crete can but here pleasantly tempered be combined if you self -transfer i.e. by by breezes from the sea. another. Read ‘Zorba the Greek’ for a hire car. For multi-centre detaiIs see marvellous evocation of the people to celebrate!) or just to drink raki at page 6. and the place – or any other of the coffee shop, you never know. Seek Car Hire The land is infinitely varied – Kazantakis’ novels. out a Minoan palace, a mountain See page 8 for details. mountain ranges rise up to 8,000 plateau, a Byzantine monastery. Turn Representative feet, Europe’s deepest gorge winds for It is a good idea to hire a car and Based in NW Crete (Chania, Panormos) southwards into the high, wild twelve miles through rock walls at explore. You needn’t go far, because and SW Crete (Paleochora). hinterland for the essence of an times 1,000 feet high, and countless the holiday trade is confined largely to Early Booking Offers ancient legend-haunted land. For departures before 14/7 and 24/8 beaches lead to a clear blue sea. Add the four main towns and the coast. Any working village will reward your onwards, if booked by 28/2. (Note: to these high alpine meadows, well Quite unlike any other island Crete is excludes 1 wk holidays departing watered plains and valleys, a rich effort – perhaps with an invitation to a for travellers as well as for tourists. It 24/08) celebration (there’s always something is an experience not to be missed. AEOLOS, AFRODITE, ILIANA, IDILI, PHILOXENIA, MIMAYIA • 2 wks for the price of 1 • £40 per person off 1 week GEORGE, ANCHRIS Kolymbari CHANIA Falasarna Kalives • £40 per person off Maleme Almirida Panormos Kastelli HERAKLION Rethymnon Vai For conditions see page 7. Samaria Georgoupolis Gorge Knossos Aghios Sitia Nikolaos Mochlos Mt Idi Chora Paleochora Istron Loutro Sfakion Plakias Zakros Elafonissi Zaros Island Makriyialos SOUTH COAST FERRY Aghia Galini Ierapetra Myrtos Phaestos 134 | Sunvil Holidays 6783 Greece 2010 Crete 134-147 22/11/09 09:52 Page 135 Greece | Crete Chania Loutro Our chosen areas... North West Coast North Coast South West Coast Chania • Kalives • Panormos Paleochora • Loutro Almirida Transfer time 2 hours Transfer time 90 minutes (Paleochora) to 2 hours (Loutro) Transfer time 20 mins (Chania), 45 20 minutes drive beyond historic mins (Kalives), 1 hour (Almirida) Rethymnon, the atmospheric village of The spectacular south-west coast Panormos has everything we look for – encapsulates the best of Crete – dizzy Formerly the capital of the island, Chania two good sandy beaches, a photogenic mountain scenery, a sparkling sea and is the main town in the west and has a Paleochora harbour (with church above and tavernas some fine beaches. In fact a winding drive strong Venetian flavour, particularly to each side) and, above all, a true Greek through the mountains is the only way in 100!), you can only reach Loutro on foot or around its immense harbour, lined with village atmosphere. Yet, remarkably for to Paleochora other than by sea. by boat – there are no roads and no cars! restaurants. Behind, a maze of narrow such a pretty place, foreign tourism here is lanes and crumbling Venetian facades There are plenty of restaurants and cafés Guarded by steep mountains, Loutro is set still low-key and there is only one hotel. conceal more restaurants, small shops above the sea or in the main street. In the in a sheltered bay. Half-a-dozen waterfront and atmospheric cafés. Panormos has some ten tavernas and a summer evenings there is a positively restaurants serve an amazing variety of selection of small shops in the narrow cosmopolitan atmosphere, as both roads dishes, and there are a couple of café-bars A half-hour drive east of Chania, streets leading down to the harbour and are sealed to traffic. and small shops. Canoes can be rented to neighbouring Kalives and Almirida are at beach. For bright lights Rethymnon can be explore nearby sea caves and beaches, the entrance to Souda Bay (the largest The main beach is of fine golden sand and reached by frequent local bus. A fun trip is and a small boat runs to others. Of course natural harbour in the Aegean), the White stretches for nearly a kilometre – it affords by the ‘road-train’ which starts in this is superb walking country and the Mountains behind forming a majestic superb swimming. Inland offers wonderful Panormos and runs to villages in the hills hotel is happy to give further information. backdrop. Both enjoy fine sandy beaches walking – try Agia Irini gorge as an behind. and beautiful rolling countryside. alternative to popular Samaria. Much of the time Loutro is peaceful, but it does get busy at weekends and in the high Kalives has retained its village Panormos transfer note: Panormos Boats run to the foot of Samaria (and on transfers are combined with Kalives/Almirida. season. For a complete break in an idyllic atmosphere and boasts two long sandy to Loutro), to ancient Lissos, remote Private taxi transfers can be quoted for and setting, you could do no better. Elafonissi island, or simply for spotting beaches, one to either side. Centred are expected to cost c.£100 per taxi one way. around a tree-shaded square, housing a dolphins. During high summer Paleochora Loutro transfer note: Includes 20 mins. by couple of cafés and the handsome can be windy. In the early season, there is ferry (unescorted, tickets provided) and there will be a short wait at Chora Sfakion church, Kalives has authentic local the bonus of countless wild flowers up in harbour. You will need to carry your baggage tavernas and small shops which cater for the hills. the short distance to the jetty, on/off the most needs. Unrealistically pretty and quite tiny (pop. boat and to the hotel (1 minute). Life in the burgeoning small resort of Almirida revolves around the beach and the half-dozen tavernas over the sea. The area has developed in the past few years; but this does mean that the village now has better facilities, including several café-bars, a bakery and two minimarkets. Last summer windsurfers, catamarans and sea-kayaks could be rented. From both Almirida and Kalives bicycles can be hired, excursions operate (via Kalives), there is a bus to Chania and taxis are available – for further exploration a car is a good idea. Kalives Panormos Real Greece | 135 6783 Greece 2010 Crete 134-147 21/11/09 12:20 Page 136 Greece | Crete | North West Coast Kalives Beach Hotel Kalives Afrodite Apartments Kalives ■ 3 Star ■ Bed & Breakfast or Half Board ■ Air Conditioning ■ Self Catering ■ Studios for 2/3 ■ Apartments for 2/4 ■ Swimming Pool ■ Family Units for up to 6 and 8 ■ Air Conditioning ■ Swimming Pool ■ Early Booking Offer This popular hotel was fully refurbished These good value and spacious to a high modern standard in 2008 and apartments have the benefit of a very nice remains the only one in Kalives. It enjoys swimming pool set in the garden to the a very good location, central yet virtually rear. They are just back from the main road on the beach, and has a small river which leads to Kalives, a 10-15 minute walk running to one side. from the village and only a 3 minute walk The hotel has two buildings, separated by from the fine western sandy beach. a small road leading to the beach, and They comprise eight 1-bedroom comprises 150 rooms in total. All are on apartments and two studios, either on the upper floors, served by a lift and well building also has a pool, larger (c. 160 sq the upper ground or top floor and all with connecting door as a Family Unit. appointed. They have modern m, depth 0.8m-3m) and to the side. air-conditioning (local charge). The two Furnishings throughout Afrodite are comfortable furnishings, tv, fridge, studios are twin-bedded with a corner Other facilities available at a local charge comfortable and of good quality. An iron seasonal air-conditioning, telephone and kitchenette (cooking rings, fridge), include wi-fi access from the lobby, and ironing board can be provided at no ensuite shower/wc (some have a bath shower room with wc, and balcony. There laptop rental, a fitness room, sauna and cost, and use of a washing machine for a too). All our rooms possess river or side is a sofa-bed for a child.