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Coastal Processes and Longshore Sediment Transport Along Krui Coast, Pesisir Barat of Lampung
ICOSITER 2018 Proceeding Journal of Science and Applicative Technology Coastal Processes and Longshore Sediment Transport along Krui Coast, Pesisir Barat of Lampung Trika Agnestasia Tarigan 1, Nanda Nurisman 1 1 Ocean Engineering Department, Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung Abstract. Longshore sediment transport is one of the main factors influencing coastal geomorphology along the Krui Coast, Pesisir Barat of Lampung. Longshore sediment transport is closely related to the longshore current that is generated when waves break obliquely to the coast. The growth of waves depends upon wind velocity, the duration of the wind, and the distance over which the wind blow called fetch. The daily data of wind speed and direction are forecast from European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). This study examines for predicting longshore sediment transport rate using empirical method. The wave height and period were calculated using Shore Protection Manual (SPM) 1984 method and the longshore sediment transport estimation based on the CERC formula, which also includes the wave period, beach slope, sediment grain size, and breaking waves type. Based on the use CERC formula it is known that from the Southeast direction (Qlst(1) ) the sediment transport discharge is 2.394 m3/s, in 1 (one) year the amount of sediment transport reaches 75,495,718 m3/s. 3 Whereas from the northwest direction of (Qlst(2)) the sediment transport debit is 2.472 m /s, in 1 (one) year the amount of sediment transport reaches 77,951,925 m3/s. 1. Introduction The geographical condition of Krui Coast which is directly adjacent to the Indian Ocean makes this area get a direct influence from the physical parameters of the sea, which is the wave. -
Wintertime Coastal Upwelling in Lake Geneva: an Efficient Transport
RESEARCH ARTICLE Wintertime Coastal Upwelling in Lake Geneva: An 10.1029/2020JC016095 Efficient Transport Process for Deepwater Key Points: • Coastal upwelling during winter in a Renewal in a Large, Deep Lake large deep lake was investigated by Rafael S. Reiss1 , U. Lemmin1, A. A. Cimatoribus1 , and D. A. Barry1 field observations, 3‐D numerical modeling, and particle tracking 1Ecological Engineering Laboratory (ECOL), Faculty of Architecture, Civil and Environmental Engineering (ENAC), • Upwelled water masses originating from the deep hypolimnion spend Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), Lausanne, Switzerland up to 5 days near the surface before descending back into that layer • Wintertime coastal upwelling is an Abstract Combining field measurements, 3‐D numerical modeling, and Lagrangian particle tracking, fi ef cient yet overlooked process for we investigated wind‐driven, Ekman‐type coastal upwelling during the weakly stratified winter period deepwater renewal in large deep lakes with favorable wind conditions 2017/2018 in Lake Geneva, Western Europe's largest lake (max. depth 309 m). Strong alongshore wind stress, persistent for more than 7 days, led to tilting and surfacing of the thermocline (initial depth Supporting Information: 75–100 m). Observed nearshore temperatures dropped by 1°C and remained low for 10 days, with the lowest • Supporting Information S1 temperatures corresponding to those of hypolimnetic waters originating from 200 m depth. Nearshore • Movie S1 current measurements at 30 m depth revealed dominant alongshore currents in the entire water column − (maximum current speed 25 cm s 1) with episodic upslope transport of cold hypolimnetic waters in the fi ‐ Correspondence to: lowest 10 m mainly during the rst 3 days. -
Coastal Dynamics 2017 Paper No. 156 513 How Tides and Waves
Coastal Dynamics 2017 Paper No. 156 How Tides and Waves Enhance Aeolian Sediment Transport at The Sand Motor Mega-nourishment , 1,2 1 1 Bas Hoonhout1 2, Arjen Luijendijk , Rufus Velhorst , Sierd de Vries and Dano Roelvink3 Abstract Expanding knowledge concerning the close entanglement between subtidal and subaerial processes in coastal environments initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples separate model cores for subtidal morphodynamics related to waves and currents and storms and aeolian sediment transport. The Windsurf framework bridges three gaps in our ability to model long-term coastal morphodynamics: differences in time scales, land/water boundary and differences in meshes. The Windsurf framework is applied to the Sand Motor mega-nourishment. The Sand Motor is virtually permanently exposed to tides, waves and wind and is consequently highly dynamic. In order to understand the complex morphological behavior of the Sand Motor, it is vital to take both subtidal and subaerial processes into account. The ultimate aim of this study is to identify governing processes in aeolian sediment transport estimates in coastal environments and improve the accuracy of long-term coastal morphodynamic modeling. At the Sand Motor beach armoring occurs on the dry beach. In contrast to the dry beach, no armor layer can be established in the intertidal zone due to periodic flooding. Consequently, during low tide non-armored intertidal beaches are susceptible for wind erosion and, although moist, may provide a larger aeolian sediment supply than the vast dry beach areas. -
Intro to Tidal Theory
Introduction to Tidal Theory Ruth Farre (BSc. Cert. Nat. Sci.) South African Navy Hydrographic Office, Private Bag X1, Tokai, 7966 1. INTRODUCTION Tides: The periodic vertical movement of water on the Earth’s Surface (Admiralty Manual of Navigation) Tides are very often neglected or taken for granted, “they are just the sea advancing and retreating once or twice a day.” The Ancient Greeks and Romans weren’t particularly concerned with the tides at all, since in the Mediterranean they are almost imperceptible. It was this ignorance of tides that led to the loss of Caesar’s war galleys on the English shores, he failed to pull them up high enough to avoid the returning tide. In the beginning tides were explained by all sorts of legends. One ascribed the tides to the breathing cycle of a giant whale. In the late 10 th century, the Arabs had already begun to relate the timing of the tides to the cycles of the moon. However a scientific explanation for the tidal phenomenon had to wait for Sir Isaac Newton and his universal theory of gravitation which was published in 1687. He described in his “ Principia Mathematica ” how the tides arose from the gravitational attraction of the moon and the sun on the earth. He also showed why there are two tides for each lunar transit, the reason why spring and neap tides occurred, why diurnal tides are largest when the moon was furthest from the plane of the equator and why the equinoxial tides are larger in general than those at the solstices. -
Evolution of Spectra for Mechanical and Wind Waves in a Large Tank
V. Polnikov, F. Qiao, H. Ma, and S. Jiang EVOLUTION OF SPECTRA FOR MECHANICAL AND WIND WAVES IN A LARGE TANK Vladislav Polnikov1†1, Fangli Qiao2, 3, Hongyu Ma2, and Shumin Jiang2 1A.M. Obukhov Institute of Atmospheric Physics of RAS, Moscow, Russia 2First Institute of Oceanography of MNR, Qingdao, China 3Laboratory for Regional Oceanography and Numerical Modeling, Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology, Qingdao, China (Received xx; revised xx; accepted xx) Empirical spectra for mechanical and wind waves measured in a large tank of the First Institute of Oceanography of China are presented. Analysis for the first and the second type of waves is done separately. It is shown that, in the case of mechanical waves with a steepness more than 0.2, the frequency spectra of waves evolve to ones with the tail decay S() f f 4.2 0.1 , whilst the shape of spectra at large fetches is self-similar. Numerical solutions of the four-wave kinetic equation, written in the fetch-limited version, result in the same spectra. This allows treating the empirical observations for mechanical waves as the natural evolution of free nonlinear surface waves. In the case of wind waves, the wave spectra evolve to ones with the tail decay S() f f 4.0 0.05 at fetches X greater than 8 meters, under any applied winds. The well-known 3/2 Toba’s “three-second relation”, HT p , between the mean wave height, H, and the peak period, Tp, is well fulfilled. Though, the intensities of spectra tails do not follow the Toba’s ratio, 4 24p S()() f gu* f , rather they better correspond to the ratio S()(/)() f u** Xg gu f with p = 1/3. -
99 UPWELLING in the GULF of GUINEA Results of a Mathematical
99 UPWELLING IN THE GULF OF GUINEA Results of a mathematical model 2 2 6 5 0 A. BAH Mécanique des Fluides géophysiques, Université de Liège, Liège (Belgium) ABSTRACT A numerical simulation of the oceanic response of an x-y-t two-layer model on the 3-plane to an increase of the wind stress is discussed in the case of the tro pical Atlantic Ocean. It is shown first that the method of mass transport is more suitable for the present study than the method of mean velocity, especially in the case of non-linearity. The results indicate that upwelling in the oceanic equatorial region is due to the eastward propagating equatorially trapped Kelvin wave, and that in the coastal region upwelling is due to the westward propagating reflected Rossby waves and to the poleward propagating Kelvin wave. The amplification due to non- linearity can be about 25 % in a month. The role of the non-rectilinear coast is clearly shown by the coastal upwelling which is more intense east than west of the three main capes of the Gulf of Guinea; furthermore, by day 90 after the wind's onset, the maximum of upwelling is located east of Cape Three Points, in good agree ment with observations. INTRODUCTION When they cross over the Gulf of Guinea, monsoonal winds take up humidity and subsequently discharge it over the African Continent in the form of precipitation (Fig. 1). The upwelling observed during the northern hemisphere summer along the coast of the Gulf of Guinea can reduce oceanic evaporation, and thereby affect the rainfall pattern in the SAHEL region. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Coastal Risk Assessment for Ebeye
Coastal Risk Assesment for Ebeye Technical report | Coastal Risk Assessment for Ebeye Technical report Alessio Giardino Kees Nederhoff Matthijs Gawehn Ellen Quataert Alex Capel 1230829-001 © Deltares, 2017, B De tores Title Coastal Risk Assessment for Ebeye Client Project Reference Pages The World Bank 1230829-001 1230829-00 1-ZKS-OOO1 142 Keywords Coastal hazards, coastal risks, extreme waves, storm surges, coastal erosion, typhoons, tsunami's, engineering solutions, small islands, low-elevation islands, coral reefs Summary The Republic of the Marshall Islands consists of an atoll archipelago located in the central Pacific, stretching approximately 1,130 km north to south and 1,300 km east to west. The archipelago consists of 29 atolls and 5 reef platforms arranged in a double chain of islands. The atolls and reef platforms are host to approximately 1,225 reef islands, which are characterised as low-lying with a mean elevation of 2 m above mean sea leveL Many of the islands are inhabited, though over 74% of the 53,000 population (2011 census) is concentrated on the atolls of Majuro and Kwajalein The limited land size of these islands and the low-lying topographic elevation makes these islands prone to natural hazards and climate change. As generally observed, small islands have low adaptive capacity, and the adaptation costs are high relative to the gross domestic product (GDP). The focus of this study is on the two islands of Ebeye and Majuro, respectively located on the Ralik Island Chain and the Ratak Island Chain, which host the two largest population centres of the archipelago. -
Third International Workshop on Sustainable Land Use Planning 2000
SEAVITT NORDENSON Landscape Research Record No. 4 STRUCTURES OF COASTAL RESILIENCE: DESIGN STRATEGIES FOR STORM RISK REDUCTION AT JAMAICA BAY, NEW YORK SEAVITT NORDENSON, CATHERINE The City College of New York, Spitzer School of Architecture, Program in Landscape Architecture, [email protected] 1 ABSTRACT This proposal for enhancing coastal resiliency at Jamaica Bay, New York consists of strategic design recommendations for the Rockaway Peninsula, the central marsh islands, and Back Bay communities. These recommendations, developed in a progressive academic research laboratory with the support of USACE, embrace the vast scale of Jamaica Bay as an asset for exploring USACE’s new focus on developing nature-based features as viable coastal storm risk reduction techniques. The Jamaica Bay resiliency plan includes three strategies developed through field research and modeling, both physical and digital. The first strategy addresses water quality and the reduction of back-bay flooding via a series of over wash plains, tidal inlets, and flushing tunnels at the Rockaway Peninsula and Floyd Bennett Field. The second strategy develops enhanced verges at Robert Moses’ Belt Parkway and elevates of coastal edges at vulnerable back-bay communities, managing flood risk with a layered system of marsh terraces, berms, and sunken attenuation forests. The third strategy develops novel techniques of bay nourishment and marsh island restoration through maximizing the efficacy of minimal quantities of dredged material. This “island motor / atoll terrace” would align with local cycles of maintenance dredging. Dredged material from maintenance dredging may be beneficially reused to nourish the Rockaways’ coastal beaches, enhance the bay’s marsh islands, and create living shorelines at the back-bay perimeter. -
Oceanography 200, Spring 2008 Armbrust/Strickland Study Guide Exam 1
Oceanography 200, Spring 2008 Armbrust/Strickland Study Guide Exam 1 Geography of Earth & Oceans Latitude & longitude Properties of Water Structure of water molecule: polarity, hydrogen bonds, effects on water as a solvent and on freezing Latent heat of fusion & vaporization & physical explanation Effects of latent heat on heat transport between ocean & atmosphere & within atmosphere Definition of density, density of ice vs. water Physical meaning of temperature & heat Heat capacity of water & why water requires a lot of heat gain or loss to change temperature Effects of heating & cooling on density of water, and physical explanation Difference in albedo of ice/snow vs. water, and effects on Earth temperature Properties of Seawater Definitions of salinity, conservative & non-conservative seawater constituents, density (sigma-t) Average ocean salinity & how it is measured 3 technology systems for monitoring ocean salinity and other properties 6 most abundant constituents of seawater & Principle of Constant Proportions Effects of freezing on seawater Effects of temperature & salinity on density, T-S diagram Processes that increase & decrease salinity & temperature and where they occur Generalized depth profiles of temperature, salinity, density & ocean stratification & stability Generalized depth profiles of O2 & CO2 and processes determining these profiles Forms of dissolved inorganic carbon in seawater and their buffering effect on pH of seawater Water Properties and Climate Change 2 main causes of global sea level rise, 2 main causes of local sea level rise Physical properties of water that affect sea level rise Icebergs & sea ice: Differences in sources, and effects of freezing & melting on sea level How heat content of upper ocean & Arctic sea ice extent have changed since about 1970s Invasion of fossil fuel CO2 in the oceans and effects on pH The Sea Floor & Plate Tectonics General differences in rock type & density of oceanic vs. -
Oceanography Lecture 12
Because, OF ALL THE ICE!!! Oceanography Lecture 12 How do you know there’s an Ice Age? i. The Ocean/Atmosphere coupling ii.Surface Ocean Circulation Global Circulation Patterns: Atmosphere-Ocean “coupling” 3) Atmosphere-Ocean “coupling” Atmosphere – Transfer of moisture to the Low latitudes: Oceans atmosphere (heat released in higher latitudes High latitudes: Atmosphere as water condenses!) Atmosphere-Ocean “coupling” In summary Latitudinal Differences in Energy Atmosphere – Transfer of moisture to the atmosphere: Hurricanes! www.weather.com Amount of solar radiation received annually at the Earth’s surface Latitudinal Differences in Salinity Latitudinal Differences in Density Structure of the Oceans Heavy Light T has a much greater impact than S on Density! Atmospheric – Wind patterns Atmospheric – Wind patterns January January Westerlies Easterlies Easterlies Westerlies High/Low Pressure systems: Heat capacity! High/Low Pressure systems: Wind generation Wind drag Zonal Wind Flow Wind is moving air Air molecules drag water molecules across sea surface (remember waves generation?): frictional drag Westerlies If winds are prolonged, the frictional drag generates a current Easterlies Only a small fraction of the wind energy is transferred to Easterlies the water surface Westerlies Any wind blowing in a regular pattern? High/Low Pressure systems: Wind generation by flow from High to Low pressure systems (+ Coriolis effect) 1) Ekman Spiral 1) Ekman Spiral Once the surface film of water molecules is set in motion, they exert a Spiraling current in which speed and direction change with frictional drag on the water molecules immediately beneath them, depth: getting these to move as well. Net transport (average of all transport) is 90° to right Motion is transferred downward into the water column (North Hemisphere) or left (Southern Hemisphere) of the ! Speed diminishes with depth (friction) generating wind. -
Tidal and Wind-Driven Currents from Oscr
FEATURE TIDAL AND WIND-DRIVEN CURRENTS FROM OSCR By David Prandle TWO IMPORTANTASPECTS of tidal currents are (1) be seen by comparing calculations of M, tidal vor- their temporal coherence and (2) their constancy ticity distributions <OV/OX- c?U/OY> from OSCR (over centuries). The first rigorous evaluation of an measurements with corresponding model calcula- Ocean Surface Current Radar (OSCR) system ex- tions (Prandle 1987). ploited these characteristics using sequential de- Tidal Residuals ployments of the one available unit with subse- The propagation of tidal energy from the quent combination of radial components to ocean into shelf seas produces an attendant net construct tidal ellipses (Prandle and Ryder 1985). residual current Uo of 0.5(OUD)cos 0 (0, oscil- Specifications for Tidal Mapping lating current amplitude; c, elevation amplitude: The Rayleigh criterion for separation of closely D, water depth: O, phase difference between lJ spaced constituents in tidal analysis suggests ob- and {). In U.K. waters Uo is typically 0-3 cm s ' servational periods exceeding the related beat fre- compared with 0 of 40-100 cm s ', thus conven- • . enhanced reso- quency, this dictates 15 d of observations to sepa- tional current meters often fail to resolve U~,. lution of the instru- rate the two largest constituents M~ and St. For Moreover, numerical models that accurately sim- tidal elevations this criterion is often relaxed: ulate M z may not resolve U,, with the same accu- mentation reveals however, while elevations show a noise:tidal sig- racy. Year-long deployments of OSCR, in the finer scale dynamical nal ratio of 0(0.1-0.2), the same ratio for currents Dover Straits (Prandle et al., 1993) and the North is 0(0.5).