Wild Travel June 2013 Borneo

N playgroundature’s

A place of mystery that has long nourished the imagination of naturalists and travellers alike, the island of Borneo cannot fail to captivate with its incredible array of flora and fauna, writes Nick Garbutt

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ew places conjure images of darkness and mystery like the island of Borneo. Charles Darwin once described it as “one great wild untidy luxuriant hothouse made by nature for herself”, which is an incredibly apt description given the wealth and variety of fauna and flora on the island. There are mammals, lizards, snakes and frogs that ‘fly’, fish that ‘walk’ on mud, monkeys that dive and swim, plants that eat insects and flowers the size of dustbin lids. Borneo may not have the reputation and glamorous image of other top wildlife destinations around the world, but it offers the ecotourist a wealth of opportunities to experience the thrill of the island’s forests and the Fremarkable species that live there.

Far left: orangutan offspring are weaned at four, sometimes later. Left: descending Mt. Kinabalu. Below: a mossy tree frog

SABAH Essential Borneo Who: Sarah Wight, Without question Sabah has some of the richest, visitors go to enjoy its biological riches. As Dive Worldwide Where: LAYANG LAYANG, most diverse and best developed parks and many as 6,000 plant species occur on the Sabah reserves in Borneo. This is not coincidence, but mountain, including over 1,000 different There are a number of rather a consequence of the towering presence of orchids and more than one third of all the world-class dive sites in Mount Kinabalu, the roof of Borneo. From its islands’ pitcher plants (genus Nepenthes). Sabah, but the small summit at 4,095 metres all the way down through There are also more than 600 species of island of Sipadan is the tracts of rainforest to pristine coral-fringed off- butterflies, and over 320 species of birds. most famous. It sits atop a 650 shore islands, there are different habitats each metre abyss in the Celebes Sea and supporting a tremendous array of intriguing MAPPED OUT this deep water brings large species. This, coupled with relatively easy access, Well-maintained trails close to the Park HQ offer pelagic species such as manta and good infrastructure and quality tourist facilities, ample opportunity to explore, with the open areas eagle rays, scalloped hammerhead make Sabah the obvious first choice for visitors. and forest edges good places for bird watching. sharks and numerous turtles. However, I prefer the hidden gem Situated within two hours drive of the state After dark these trails can also be explored for of Layang Layang (Swallows Reef), capital Kota Kinabalu, Kinabalu Park is often the reptiles, frogs and invertebrates, including the lying 300km north-west of Kota first place many visitors experience. The mountain beautiful endemic Kinabalu forest gecko. Kinabalu and open from March to rises like a citadel from the lowlands of north For those who climb the mountain, the summit August. Vast walls of coral provide Borneo and has captured imaginations for trail is also good for bird watching as well as a home for a huge array of species, centuries. It is a high altitude ‘island’ surrounded mammals like the mountain tree shrews and including larger ones such as by lowland ‘seas’ of forest and this isolation has led mountain ground squirrels that often scavenge the barracuda, big eye trevally and to the evolution of some unusual endemic species. scraps from climbers’ picnics. The majority of Pacific green and hawksbill turtles. Today, climbing the mountain is hugely popular pitcher plants flourish between 2,000 and 3,300 Those seeking the thrill of diving and is achievable by most in two days and one metres, with species such as Nepenthes tentaculata, with sharks won’t be disappointed: overnight on the mountain. On most days, the N. villosa and N. kinabaluensis close to the trail. scalloped hammerhead, grey reef, leopard, silvertip and thresher numbers reaching the summit approach 50 to 100: After a night at the rest house at Panar Laban, at sharks have all been encountered. over 30,000 now climb the mountain annually. But 3,270 metres, the trek to the top begins in the early www.diveworldwide.com

WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 67 Sabah’s longest river forms a flood plain ecosystem of almost unparalleled richness

stretches through piles of boulders towards the opportunity to watch by torchlight turtles that people, wildlife, eco-tourism and forest summit pyramid of Low’s Peak. The final excavating their nests and laying their clutches industries can thrive and support one another. scramble to the top is fulfilling and and observe the hatchlings being released. For that real ‘into the heart of Borneo’ breathtaking. Reached at dawn, sunrise on the Further to the east lies Lower Kinabatangan experience, there is no place like Danum summit of Borneo is a sight never forgotten. Wildlife Sanctuary, one of Borneo’s most Valley, arguably Borneo’s premier wildlife From Kinabalu most visitors head across to diverse and rewarding wildlife areas. It can be location. Situated within an enormous forest the east side of Sabah to Sandakan and visit reached either by road or boat from Sandakan. concession, over 400 square km have been set the world renowned Sepilok Orang Utan aside as a reserve. Borneo Rainforest Lodge Sanctuary. Since opening in 1964, over 100 river ADVENTURE lies at its heart, some 80km off the main road individuals have been returned to their forest The Kinabatangan is Sabah’s longest river and from Lahad Datu. Located on the banks of the home. Visitors enjoy close encounters at its lower reaches form a flood plain ecosystem Danum River among a swathe of pristine feeding time, when individuals not fully of almost unparalleled richness. There are forest, it offers access to a network of well laid capable of self-sufficiency return for a meal. tracts of riparian forest, stranded ox-bow out trails that follow the course of the river While here it is also worth visiting the lakes, nipah swamp and mangroves, all of and forest interior. These allow easy access adjacent Rainforest Discovery Centre on the which support such varied wildlife as and provide ample opportunity to discover edge of the reserve, which has a canopy orangutans, proboscis monkeys, Bornean some of the forest’s amazing biodiversity. walkway and also offers night walks on pygmy elephants and a vast array of birds, Within a stone’s throw of the lodge it is Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. reptiles and amphibians. possible to encounter wild orangutans, red leaf Also accessible from Sandakan is Selingan The villages of Sukau and Bilit, some 80 to monkeys and Bornean gibbons. Bird watching Island, a tiny patch of sand off the north east 100km up river from the coast, are centres for is also excellent; open areas around the lodge coast, which is part of the Turtle Islands wildlife tourism, with a number of comfortable and along trails offer chances to see mixed Marine Park. Along with two neighbouring lodges. The experiences here are among the feeding flocks and, if there is a fruiting tree islands, it is one the region’s major sea turtle most memorable in Borneo, as the wildlife has noisy rhinoceros hornbills are conspicuous. breeding sites. Throughout the year, and become accustomed to boat traffic. Early mornings are the best time to enjoy particularly between April and October, large But this is far from being a pristine the extra dimension offered by the fabulous numbers of green turtles and, to a lesser wilderness. Perhaps as much as 90 per cent of canopy walkway. From the treetops there is a extent, hawksbill turtles, come ashore on most the forest has already been cleared to make spectacular alternative perspective, where mist nights to lay their eggs. Wardens patrol the way for palm oil plantations and other crops. hangs in the valley and clings to the crowns of beaches and collect all the eggs for incubation. The conservation vision is to create corridors trees, with only the tallest standing proud Each night newly hatched baby turtles are also where natural forests along the river are above the white cloak. After dark, night walks

released back into the sea. Visitors have the maintained and fragments re-connected, so and vehicle rides offer a window into the © NICK GARBUTT

68 WILD TRAVEL WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM DESTINATION BORNEO REGIONAL GUIDE

Clockwise from far left: dawn breaks on the river; leopard cats are only the size of domestic cats; Danum Valley’s canopy walkway; pygmy elephant young and its mother; the striking western tarsier

Conflict of interests How the shrinking habitat of the Bornean pygmy elephant is affecting their right to roam

The recent establishment of The Lower Kinabatangan is Such persecution is forcing the Bornean pygmy elephant as now a mosaic of fragmented the elephants into increasingly a distinct lineage has forest blocks and narrow narrow corridors. In the past, dramatically elevated their interlinking corridors following herds of more than 15 animals importance in conservation the course of the river, which is were rare, but gatherings terms because they constitute surrounded primarily by palm exceeding 60 elephants are what is termed an oil plantations and local being encountered in some ‘evolutionary significant unit’. villages, where crops such as areas today. The Lower secretive world of the forest’s nocturnal This has happened at a time bananas, tapioca, papaya and Kinabatangan Wildlife creatures – greater mouse deer, giant flying when shrinking available sweet potatoes are grown. This Sanctuary currently covers an squirrels and culugo are often seen. There is habitat is bringing them into has resulted in the blocking of area of 26,000 hectares. also a reasonable chance of seeing both slow more conflict with humans. traditional elephant migration However, estimates suggest loris and western tarsiers. Current estimates suggest routes, forcing the elephants forest clearance is continuing: Two hours east of Lahad Datu is Tabin the total number of elephants to pass through plantations between 2000 and 2005 Wildlife Reserve. Less well-known than in Borneo is around 1,600, where they eat the young perhaps 20 per cent of Danum, it is most notable as the last major which are concentrated in an palms and are harried by remaining forests in the area stronghold of the Sumatran rhinoceros on area stretching from Sebuku plantation owners. The have gone. To better Borneo, and there are also significant Sembakung in north east elephants also raid crops close understand the movements of numbers of Bornean pygmy elephants and Kalimantan, through to Maliau, to local villages, where they are elephants in the region, staff tembadau (wild cattle), although these Danum, Deramakot, often encouraged to move on from the Sabah Wildlife animals primarily inhabit the core area that Kinabatangan and Tabin on the with the use of fire crackers. Department and WWF’s Asian is inaccessible to visitors. The peripheral eastern side of Sabah. The Worse are instances of Rhino and Elephant Strategy areas do support plenty of other wildlife and Lower Kinabatangan Wildlife direct persecution. Snares (AREAS) have now radio even in areas where forest adjoins Sanctuary holds one of the have caused horrific injuries to collared some individuals and plantations there is much to see. largest single populations some individuals and there are able to track their The nocturnal drives can be rewarding, as (perhaps 150 to 200 elephants) have also been reports of local movements. It is hoped this Tabin is perhaps the best place to see some and regular interaction with people killing elephants for work will identify those of the island’s elusive carnivores, especially the people of the area their ivory, skin and meat in remaining areas of forest that leopard cats and, for the very fortunate, highlights the problem. Lower Kinabatangan and Tabin. are critical to the elephants. clouded leopards.

WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 69 Essential Borneo Sarawak Who: Nicki Hollamby, Audley Travel Borneo Sarawak has an extensive network of parks and can sometimes be seen foraging on the mud flats Specialist Where: Gunung Mulu, reserves, some of which are relatively easy to in the mangroves at low tide. Long-tailed Sarawak access. While they do not generally offer wildlife macaques and silvered langurs are also easily While Sabah enjoys watching comparable in quality and diversity to seen. Other mammals that are seen on night more of the limelight, those in Sabah (Sarawak has suffered walks from time-to-time include colugos, slow Sarawak has just as much to deforestation and hunting to a far greater degree), loris, pangolins and mouse deer. offer the wildlife enthusiast. there are still some superb locations here. A trip to Gunung Mulu National Bako National Park offers an intoxicating blooming lovely Park offers one of Borneo’s true mixture of stunning coastal scenery, teeming With such a variety of habitats, the park’s flora is wilderness experiences. There are forests and abundant wildlife. This, in rich and diverse. In the heath forest large few places that match such an combination with its proximity to Kuching and numbers of pitcher plants can be seen with large incredible combination of habitats easy access, make it arguably Sarawak’s premier colonies and clusters of Nepenthes ampullaria and Mulu has something for everyone, including giant caves wildlife location for the first-time visitor. growing on the ground, and also larger aerial with ceilings encrusted with tens Situated on a peninsula jutting into the South species such as Nepenthes rafflesiana and of thousands of swiftlet nests. At China Sea, it is relatively small, yet extremely Nepenthes gracilis. dusk, wait at Deer Cave and watch diverse, with rocky coasts, secluded beaches, Situated in the far north of the state, close to an estimated three million wrinkle- mangrove forest, dipterocarp forest, peat-swamp Brunei, is Gunung Mulu, Sarawak’s largest lipped bats emerge to feed. forest and heath forest (kerangas). There is a national park (52,865 hectares). An area The true adventurer should trek up network of trails through most parts of the park, dominated by peaks, the park’s major claim to Mount Api to view the Pinnacles. that allow the visitor to experience the best that fame actually lies beneath: one of the largest The hill forest ecosystem here is each of these various habitats has to offer. Many limestone cave systems in the world. home to an incredible diversity of of the trails through forested areas are boardwalks. The scale of these caves is bewildering. They birdlife: listen out for the Bako is one of the best places to see proboscis include the world’s largest cave passage (Deer distinctive whistle of a mountain serpent eagle hunting prey. monkeys and they are regularly encountered in Cave), the world’s largest natural chamber www.audleytravel.com the mangrove forests, as well as swamp forest (Sarawak Chamber, capable of housing 47 jumbo and also on the edge of dipterocarp forest. They jets) and the longest cave in South East Asia

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Clockwise from left: the bat-infested Deer Cave, Gunung Mulu National Park; a Wallace’s frog gliding down from the canopy; rafflesia flower in bloom; aerial pitcher plant; silver langur with an infant of two weeks or less; a proboscis monkeyforages for food at low tide

(Clearwater Cave, 108km in length). To date over 300km of underground cave passages have been surveyed and this is thought to represent only 30 to 40 per cent of the full FLIGHTS OF extent. Visiting the mouth of Deer Cave at dusk is an amazing spectacle, as in excess of three million bats pour out of the entrance. Mulu also offers much more than simply FANTASY wildlife; there is rock climbing, jungle trekking, kayaking, mountain biking, and the Why is Borneo home opportunity to interact with fascinating local to so many flying and people, including Iban, Berawan and Penan, gliding animals? Sarawak’s last nomadic tribe. Rafflesia are one of the iconic species from The forests of Borneo harbour degree of uniformity, with a majority would be much better Borneo and Gunung Gading National Park a greater diversity of flying closed canopy at a consistent described as ‘gliders’ as they on Sarawak’s south west coast is one of the and gliding animals than any height, those in Borneo appear are able to traverse large gaps few places you might see this amazing flower other, with flying squirrels, more random, with no and cover considerable that can be over 70cm in diameter. flying frogs, flying snakes, discernable uniform canopy distances in the air, but always There is a network of boardwalks through flying lizards, flying geckos height and the presence of a constrained by gravity: they the accessible areas of forest where the and the bizarre colugo or large number of trees leap from high and land lower rafflesia grow. If there are blooms deeper flying lemur. But is this simply protruding way above the down. The colugo or flying into the forest park staff may be able to a coincidence or a quirk of canopy (so-called emergents). lemur, the flying squirrels and escort visitors. Before travelling, check with evolutionary fate? Furthermore, the rainforests the flying lizards (Draco sp.) the parks department to see whether any of Recent advances in of Africa and the New World are the prime examples of the flowers are in bloom. technology have allowed are criss-crossed with vines this. Flying geckos, flying scientists to begin exploring and lianas that are far less frogs and flying snakes are the rainforest canopy – evident in Borneo. less sophisticated. Their mode considered by many the last Evolving the ability to ‘fly’ of aviation would be better great frontier on land – for the solves the problems these described as a controlled fall first time. From such lofty differences present perfectly; or ‘parachute’. All species vantages, perspectives change if there is no way to walk have flaps of skin or other dramatically. Comparisons, across, just climb up and glide methods of dramatically between the great rainforests across the gap in the forest. increasing their surface area of Africa and the Amazon and Of course the term ‘flying’ to provide air resistance. This those in Borneo (and other that is applied to all the slows their descent and also parts of South East Asia) have different groups in Borneo is allows horizontal movement revealed some surprising not strictly accurate: bats and during the fall, with a degree differences. While those in birds are the only vertebrates of control and Africa and the Amazon show a with true powered flight. The manoeuvrability. © XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX © NICK GARBUTT, ALAMY © NICK GARBUTT,

WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 71 DESTINATION BORNEO REGIONAL GUIDE

Clockwise from below: agile gibbons sing in the morning to establish territory; Camp Leakey, Tanjung Puting NP, the very rare clouded leopard; an egret as the moon rises

Kalimantan Essential Borneo Who: Cat Gibbons, Access to the wildlife hotspots of Kalimantan prohibited the reintroduction of orangutans Project Coordinator, The Orangutan Foundation (part of Indonesia) is more difficult than into areas currently supporting wild Where: Tanjung Puting visiting locations in Malaysian Borneo. populations and the releases in to Tanjung National Park, Kalimantan Firstly because getting to Kalimantan itself is Puting stopped. The park nonetheless Tanjung Puting National Park less straightforward than getting to Sarawak supports a thriving population of wild and offers a window into the past. or Sabah (or Brunei), and secondly, because previously released animals and currently Accessible only by boat, the infrastructure within Kalimantan is much has around 500 orangutans. journey follows the Sekonyer River, less developed and travel can therefore be Lying just inland from the south coast, the where kingfishers flash by and more time consuming. park can be found on a peninsula proboscis monkeys chatter in the Without doubt the most famous location surrounded by the Java Sea. It officially trees. It hasn’t changed in centuries. is Camp Leakey within Tanjung Puting covers 3,040 square km of lowland Then there are the orangutans. National Park, which initially gained dipterocarp and peat swamp forest, with The park’s population is one of the largest remaining and they serve renown as the site for the long-term nipa palm and mangroves around the coast. as icons for the park. However orangutan research carried out by Dr. Biruté It is the largest protected forest in Central since the mid-1990s the area has Galdikas. From informal beginnings in 1971, Kalimantan and one of the largest protected become increasingly threatened by this later became one of the island’s areas of tropical heath forest and peat illegal logging, agricultural foremost rehabilitation centres. Its success swamp forest in South East Asia. encroachment and fires. at releasing rehabilitated orangutans The area supports much more besides For those wanting to enjoy the brought its problems though, as tourist orangutans. There are good populations of experience and get involved, the numbers increased dramatically. Ironically, proboscis monkeys, agile gibbons and Orangutan Foundation offers tours this influx undermined the rehabilitation silvered langurs. Clouded leopards, various and volunteer programmes, where process and increased the risk of introducing civets, sun bears, and wild cattle or banteng involvement and contributions serious human diseases to the rehabilitated have also been recorded, as have several really make a difference. Tanjung Puting is certainly a natural orangutans, who then potentially could species of hornbill and a great diversity of wonder not to be missed. transmit disease to the wild population. In bird life, especially waterfowl, egrets, herons www.orangutan.org.uk

WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 73 Left: the Wagler’s pit viper is active at night, remaining coiled in a tree by day. Below: the canopy walkway, Ulu Temburong NP

Brunei Less well-known than its larger neighbours, The lowland dipterocarp forest is dominated Brunei has only recently begun to develop its by giant trees, and one of the highlights is an ecotourism potential. Because of the wealth impressive canopy tower and walkway, generated from its oil and gas reserves, Brunei suspended 50 metres above the forest floor. has not needed to exploit its forests and Tiger orchids and other epiphytes can be seen logging has been only a minor issue. This, clinging to nearby branches and birds such as combined with a small population and bushy crested hornbills and black and yellow reduced pressure on the environment, means broadbills are common. Bornean gibbons are around 75 per cent of the State’s forests generally heard each morning. remain intact. Correspondingly, Brunei still Common reptiles include the strikingly has natural areas of significance and parks coloured Wagler’s pit viper, five-lined flying where an excellent appreciation of wildlife can lizard Draco and the bent-toed gecko. be gained. Relatively good infrastructure and Amphibian life is rich and varied too. Over accommodation makes travelling easier. 400 species of butterfly have been seen in the Ulu Temburong National Park (formerly park, including Rajah Brooke’s birdwing. the Batu Apoi Forest Reserve) located in the Ulu Temburong is two hours travel from the easternmost corner of Brunei is the only capital of Bandar Seri Begawan. Ulu Ulu locality that has so far been significantly Lodge provides good quality accommodation developed for tourism. and arranges all activities.

Borneo has a typically equatorial rain every day although rarely for very holidays; it is also a renowned diving, climate, so it is hot and very humid all long periods. Hence the better period to golf and honeymoon destination, hence When year round. Temperatures rarely drop visit is between April and October. the summer months being the busiest. below 20°C and can rise to over 30°C. However, the climate remains National parks that are in close to go As such, the island can be visited at unpredictable and the possibility of proximity to towns and cities, for anytime of the year. However, by downpours exists any time but these are instance Kinabalu Park and Bako, also Time your visit to definition, rainforest areas have a wet often brief. tend to get very busy with locals at climate and there are two definable Late June until mid-August tends to weekends, so mid-week tends to be avoid the rains seasons. The wet season traditionally be the busiest time for tourism. Sabah in quieter and potentially more productive (and the crowds)

runs from November to March and it can particular is not only popular for wildlife and enjoyable. SUPERSTOCK ALAMY, © NICK GARBUTT,

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The best of the island’s wildlife to ONES TO WATCH look out for during a visit

Bornean pygmy Orangutans elephant Pongo pygmaeus Elephas maximus borneensis Perhaps more than any other animal the orangutan Borneo’s elephants are now classified as is synonymous with Borneo. Hold the inquisitive an endemic subspecies, the Bornean gaze of an infant and the narrowness of 15 million Pygmy Elephant. As implied, they are the years of evolutionary separation is only too smallest of all elephants, weighing around apparent. But unlike ourselves they are solitary half that of their counterparts from the creatures leading reclusive lives and foraging Indian Subcontinent. Other peculiarities alone over large areas of forest. Only adult females include long tails and straight tusks (only with young do not travel alone. Indeed, other than possessed by males). It is quite probable when males and females come together to breed, the that these features are adaptations to only time orangutans see other orangutans is when two their dense forest environment (having or more congregate in a large tree laden with ripe fruit. See page 92 straight tusks is a feature they share with Their diet is dominated by fruit, for which they have a huge for our guide to Borneo’s other forest elephants in Africa). appetite; around half the day is spent feeding. must-see They are confined to areas in the north Females give birth to a single offspring every seven to eight years primates east, primarily in Sabah and also just into and these do not become completely independent until at least seven the north east corner of Kalimantan, and sometime ten years. This is the slowest breeding rate of any where they are found in lowland terrestrial mammal and is a major reason why orangutan populations recover so slowly. dipterocarp and riverine forest and occasionally entering swamp and nipah Spotting tip: forest to forage. They also venture into Orangutans can be surprisingly quiet. Listen for leaf rustling and branches cracking in plantations (coconut, cocoa and palm oil) the canopy. Or look for a fruiting wild fig, which is likely to attract orangutans along with and gardens where they raid crops and other animals. cause considerable damage (see box).

Rhinoceros hornbill Buceros rhinoceros Boldly marked and conspicuous, no group of birds epitomises Borneo’s forests more than hornbills. Their large size, extravagant bills and loud calls make them instantly recognisable. The largest and arguably most spectacular species is the rhinoceros hornbill. It is the national bird and the emblem of Sarawak. The species’ duet calls Reticulated python are one of the characteristic sounds of the Python reticulatus rainforest, where the lower pitched The reticulated python is another one of resonant honk of the male is complemented Borneo’s record breakers as it is widely by the higher pitched note of the female. regarded as the world’s longest snake, These calls build together in tandem and although it is common through much of South reach a crescendo as the pair take flight; East Asia, Indonesia and the Philippines. the rush of air over the birds’ wings Stories of giant snakes are the subject of producing an audible ‘whoosh’. considerable exaggeration. In reality, accurately measuring a wild snake is Spotting tip: virtually impossible. Reticulated Pythons Their calls are regularly exceed 6.5m and there are generally authentic reports of snakes reaching 9-10m. heard They occur throughout lowland areas and before are often found close to water. Smaller they are seen, but snakes spend the day coiled in the canopy; it’s then easier to larger snakes tend to rest in hollow trees or pinpoint where they under logs near the ground. are in the canopy. Spotting tip: Herds cover huge ranges Fruiting trees are up and down the river and can be easily Spotting tip: often irresistible and missed. It is better to spend several They are often found near lodges, adjacent can attract several days on the Kinabatangan River to to villages and even in palm oil plantations. birds. increase the chances of success.

WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 75 impress a potential mate. frequently call. to his ‘dancing ground’ and will forest trails. If active a male will return for obviously cleared areas on the Spotting tip: consenting to mate. grounds of several males before pleased and may visit the dancing is looking. However, she is not easily feathered finery into which the female ‘eyes’ or ocelli that form a bank of spectacularly marked with lines of feathers on the males’ wings are rustling noise. The long secondary waggles his very long tail to produce a remains hidden behind the wings, but curved funnel. At the same time he draws them into a circle that creates a thrusts his wings wide open, inverts and circles until he is very close. He then around the female in ever-decreasing extravagant display begins by walking perform. If a female wanders onto the create a clear stage on which he can leaves, twigs and debris are removed to is tended with great delicacy - all dancing ground in a small clearing. This breeding season they maintain a the defining sounds of Borneo’s forests. explosive cry – “kow wow” – is one of heard than seen. Its distinctive, great argus pheasant is more often Although a large bird (up to 2m), the Argusianus argus pheasant G REGIONAL GUIDE DESTINATION BORNEO 76 Few birds try as hard as the male to r

WILD TRAVEL eat

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f and pin point their location. faint eye-shine. Or listen for calls and try floor with a torch and it is possible to see Spotting tip: body and short hind legs it is only capable unable to leap long distances. With a stout this large species is not very agile and is of fallen leaves. imperceptibly into the forest floor’s carpet have evolved sublime camouflage to blend surpass the Bornean horned frog. Adults When it comes to deception, few creatures Megophrys nasuta B systematically searching likely areas. it is possible to catch their eye-shine in a torch beam,lumps so on it the is trunksalways of worthtrees that look a little odd. WhenSpotting active aftertip: dark, against a tree trunk or hanging upside-down beneath a branch.dusk and dawn and after nightfall. The day is usually spent resting tight far more graceful air and can execute glides in excesshops. However, of 70 metres. with their wing membranes outstretched,cumbersome they climbers take and on tenda to move up trunks in clumsy,stretches rabbit-like between their limbs and behind to the tip ofbark the thattail, they they are are very difficult to spot. Because ofon theand membraneclimb up trunks,that so effective is their camouflagetrees against at thedusk that is your first inkling of the animal. Although they rest ‘skin wings’. order of mammals called the flier (they glide) nor a lemur, but belongs to a distinctThe colugo or Sunda flying lemur is neither a true Galeopterus variegatus C of ‘bunny-hops’, so instead relies on its fully active only at night. camouflage to avoid being predated. dusk sounds in lowland forests. They are D of the characteristic late afternoon or concealed beneath large leaves, fallen ly It is often the unlikely shadowy-shape of a colugo gliding between two To avoid the likelihood of predation by raptors, they are active around o honks, often before heavy rain, are one logs or rocks. Their loud resonant o uring the day they tend to lay low, lug r in nean g l o

At night, scour the forest R e o esting animals are fiendishly difficult to spot, but look for U

mur r Su ho nlike many other frogs, r ne n d d D a ermoptera, which literally means f

r o g bi epitomised by the famous markings down their outer edges. of iridescent yellow-green spear-shaped heads and wings of jet black with a series spectacular than females, with scarlet associated with streams. low montane forests and is generally birdwing. This is a species of lowland and lepidoptera world. 180mm, these are the leviathans of the birdwings. Attaining wingspans of up to the most celebrated group being the Borneo is famous for its butterflies, with Trogonoptera brookiana minerals may also be close to the surface. sandy bars on the edges of streams where newly formed forest pools (after rain) or Spotting tip: Ra They are also exquisitely beautiful, as rd j ah win Br

Keep an eye out around g ooke M ’ R ales are more s ajah Brooke’s