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N PLAYGROUNDATURE’S A place of mystery that has long nourished the imagination of naturalists and travellers alike, the island of Borneo cannot fail to captivate with its incredible array of flora and fauna, writes Nick Garbutt 66 WILD TRAVEL WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM DESTINATION BORNEO REGIONAL GUIDE ew places conjure images of darkness and mystery like the island of Borneo. Charles Darwin once described it as “one great wild untidy luxuriant hothouse made by nature for herself”, which is an incredibly apt description given the wealth and variety of fauna and flora on the island. There are mammals, lizards, snakes and frogs that ‘fly’, fish that ‘walk’ on mud, monkeys that dive and swim, plants that eat insects and flowers the size of dustbin lids. Borneo may not have the reputation and glamorous image of other top wildlife destinations around the world, but it offers the ecotourist a wealth of opportunities to experience the thrill of the island’s forests and the Fremarkable species that live there. Far left: orangutan offspring are weaned at four, sometimes later. Left: descending Mt. Kinabalu. Below: a mossy tree frog SABAH Essential Borneo WHO: SARAH WIGHT, Without question Sabah has some of the richest, visitors go to enjoy its biological riches. As DIVE WORLdwIDE WHERE: LAYANG LAYANG, most diverse and best developed parks and many as 6,000 plant species occur on the SabaH reserves in Borneo. This is not coincidence, but mountain, including over 1,000 different There are a number of rather a consequence of the towering presence of orchids and more than one third of all the world-class dive sites in Mount Kinabalu, the roof of Borneo. From its islands’ pitcher plants (genus Nepenthes). Sabah, but the small summit at 4,095 metres all the way down through There are also more than 600 species of island of Sipadan is the tracts of rainforest to pristine coral-fringed off- butterflies, and over 320 species of birds. most famous. It sits atop a 650 shore islands, there are different habitats each metre abyss in the Celebes Sea and supporting a tremendous array of intriguing MAPPED OUT this deep water brings large species. This, coupled with relatively easy access, Well-maintained trails close to the Park HQ offer pelagic species such as manta and good infrastructure and quality tourist facilities, ample opportunity to explore, with the open areas eagle rays, scalloped hammerhead make Sabah the obvious first choice for visitors. and forest edges good places for bird watching. sharks and numerous turtles. However, I prefer the hidden gem Situated within two hours drive of the state After dark these trails can also be explored for of Layang Layang (Swallows Reef), capital Kota Kinabalu, Kinabalu Park is often the reptiles, frogs and invertebrates, including the lying 300km north-west of Kota first place many visitors experience. The mountain beautiful endemic Kinabalu forest gecko. Kinabalu and open from March to rises like a citadel from the lowlands of north For those who climb the mountain, the summit August. Vast walls of coral provide Borneo and has captured imaginations for trail is also good for bird watching as well as a home for a huge array of species, centuries. It is a high altitude ‘island’ surrounded mammals like the mountain tree shrews and including larger ones such as by lowland ‘seas’ of forest and this isolation has led mountain ground squirrels that often scavenge the barracuda, big eye trevally and to the evolution of some unusual endemic species. scraps from climbers’ picnics. The majority of Pacific green and hawksbill turtles. Today, climbing the mountain is hugely popular pitcher plants flourish between 2,000 and 3,300 Those seeking the thrill of diving and is achievable by most in two days and one metres, with species such as Nepenthes tentaculata, with sharks won’t be disappointed: overnight on the mountain. On most days, the N. villosa and N. kinabaluensis close to the trail. scalloped hammerhead, grey reef, leopard, silvertip and thresher numbers reaching the summit approach 50 to 100: After a night at the rest house at Panar Laban, at sharks have all been encountered. over 30,000 now climb the mountain annually. But 3,270 metres, the trek to the top begins in the early www.diveworldwide.com © ALAMY, NICK GARBUTT © ALAMY, the park has so much more to offer and most hours. The granite plateau is bare and bleak and WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM WILD TRAVEL 67 Sabah’s longest river forms a flood plain ecosystem of almost unparalleled richness stretches through piles of boulders towards the opportunity to watch by torchlight turtles that people, wildlife, eco-tourism and forest summit pyramid of Low’s Peak. The final excavating their nests and laying their clutches industries can thrive and support one another. scramble to the top is fulfilling and and observe the hatchlings being released. For that real ‘into the heart of Borneo’ breathtaking. Reached at dawn, sunrise on the Further to the east lies Lower Kinabatangan experience, there is no place like Danum summit of Borneo is a sight never forgotten. Wildlife Sanctuary, one of Borneo’s most Valley, arguably Borneo’s premier wildlife From Kinabalu most visitors head across to diverse and rewarding wildlife areas. It can be location. Situated within an enormous forest the east side of Sabah to Sandakan and visit reached either by road or boat from Sandakan. concession, over 400 square km have been set the world renowned Sepilok Orang Utan aside as a reserve. Borneo Rainforest Lodge Sanctuary. Since opening in 1964, over 100 RIVER ADVENTURE lies at its heart, some 80km off the main road individuals have been returned to their forest The Kinabatangan is Sabah’s longest river and from Lahad Datu. Located on the banks of the home. Visitors enjoy close encounters at its lower reaches form a flood plain ecosystem Danum River among a swathe of pristine feeding time, when individuals not fully of almost unparalleled richness. There are forest, it offers access to a network of well laid capable of self-sufficiency return for a meal. tracts of riparian forest, stranded ox-bow out trails that follow the course of the river While here it is also worth visiting the lakes, nipah swamp and mangroves, all of and forest interior. These allow easy access adjacent Rainforest Discovery Centre on the which support such varied wildlife as and provide ample opportunity to discover edge of the reserve, which has a canopy orangutans, proboscis monkeys, Bornean some of the forest’s amazing biodiversity. walkway and also offers night walks on pygmy elephants and a vast array of birds, Within a stone’s throw of the lodge it is Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. reptiles and amphibians. possible to encounter wild orangutans, red leaf Also accessible from Sandakan is Selingan The villages of Sukau and Bilit, some 80 to monkeys and Bornean gibbons. Bird watching Island, a tiny patch of sand off the north east 100km up river from the coast, are centres for is also excellent; open areas around the lodge coast, which is part of the Turtle Islands wildlife tourism, with a number of comfortable and along trails offer chances to see mixed Marine Park. Along with two neighbouring lodges. The experiences here are among the feeding flocks and, if there is a fruiting tree islands, it is one the region’s major sea turtle most memorable in Borneo, as the wildlife has noisy rhinoceros hornbills are conspicuous. breeding sites. Throughout the year, and become accustomed to boat traffic. Early mornings are the best time to enjoy particularly between April and October, large But this is far from being a pristine the extra dimension offered by the fabulous numbers of green turtles and, to a lesser wilderness. Perhaps as much as 90 per cent of canopy walkway. From the treetops there is a extent, hawksbill turtles, come ashore on most the forest has already been cleared to make spectacular alternative perspective, where mist nights to lay their eggs. Wardens patrol the way for palm oil plantations and other crops. hangs in the valley and clings to the crowns of beaches and collect all the eggs for incubation. The conservation vision is to create corridors trees, with only the tallest standing proud Each night newly hatched baby turtles are also where natural forests along the river are above the white cloak. After dark, night walks released back into the sea. Visitors have the maintained and fragments re-connected, so and vehicle rides offer a window into the © NICK GARBUTT 68 WILD TRAVEL WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM DESTINATION BORNEO REGIONAL GUIDE Clockwise from far left: dawn breaks on the river; leopard cats are only the size of domestic cats; Danum Valley’s canopy walkway; pygmy elephant young and its mother; the striking western tarsier CONFLICT OF INTERESTS How the shrinking habitat of the Bornean pygmy elephant is affecting their right to roam The recent establishment of The Lower Kinabatangan is Such persecution is forcing the Bornean pygmy elephant as now a mosaic of fragmented the elephants into increasingly a distinct lineage has forest blocks and narrow narrow corridors. In the past, dramatically elevated their interlinking corridors following herds of more than 15 animals importance in conservation the course of the river, which is were rare, but gatherings terms because they constitute surrounded primarily by palm exceeding 60 elephants are what is termed an oil plantations and local being encountered in some ‘evolutionary significant unit’. villages, where crops such as areas today. The Lower secretive world of the forest’s nocturnal This has happened at a time bananas, tapioca, papaya and Kinabatangan Wildlife creatures – greater mouse deer, giant flying when shrinking available sweet potatoes are grown.

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