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Coastal Processes & Terrain

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Coastal Processes & Terrain Coastal Processes & Terrain Part II The sea heaves up, hangs loaded o'er the land, Breaks there, and buries its tumultuous strength. — Robert Browning Hamilton 1 Coastal Landforms • Depositional Landforms Animation (Coastal Stabilization Structures) – Beaches • Most widespread marine dispositional feature on land – Mostly sand deposits • Extent ? – Inland margin (storm wave deposits) Sea Level – Seaward margin (neap tide line) ? 2 • Components of the beach environment 3 – Spit and related features • Spit: Linear strand of marine sediments attached to shore • Formation usually involves longshore current transport • Related features Types of spits and the longshore current. 4 • Idealized drawings of formation of spit and related features Bay (3) Baymouth bar (2) Hook Land (1) Simple spit Ocean 5 • Tombolo formation Land Ocean Small island, sea stack 6 • Photographs of spits and related features Spit at Cape Henlopen, Delaware 7 Tombolo and Mont Saint Michel on the northwest coast of France. 8 – Barrier Islands • Coastal islands, parallel to the mainland shore • Complex origins – Pleistocene sediments washed toward mainland – Longshore transport and spit segmentation Bay Land Ocean 9 • Lagoon formation – Landward side of barrier island, protected from large waves – Low energy environment, fine mud deposits (tidal flats) 10 – Human Alteration of Coastal Sediment Budgets • Beach starvation (unintentionally shrinking beaches) – Dam construction on rivers reduces sediment discharge into oceans, starving nearby beaches of sand Old debris dam in Santa Ynez Mountains, near Santa Barbara, CA 11 • Beach nourishment (re-building beaches) – Adding sand to beaches by dredging and pumping sand from off-shore A slurry of sand and water is pumped on shore and the sand is spread onto the beach of Rehoboth Beach, DE 12 • Beach preservation (maintaining beaches) – Build structures that modify longshore transport and wave action in order to keep sand on beaches – Jetty – Groin 13 • Shorelines of Submergence – Ria Shorelines • Hilly or mountainous areas – flooded valleys become estuaries Chesapeake Bay 14 – Fjorded Coasts • Fjord – glacial trough that is inundated by the sea 15 – Wave-cut Cliffs and Platforms – Marine Terraces Near Fort Ross, CA 16 • Coral Coasts – Coral Polyps • Reef-building varieties, warm tropical waters 17 – Shallow-water Platforms • Australia’s Great Barrier Reef 18 – Sinking Islands • Three types of reefs Fringing Barrier Sea Level Atoll 19 20 Part of the fringing reef on the island of Moorea, French Polynesia. 21 Summary • The principal forces shaping coastlines are changes in sea level, tides, waves, currents, stream outflow, ice push and organic secretions. • Waves cause erosion as they constantly crash onto the shore. • Waves and longshore currents transport sediments along a coast. 22 • Landforms along coastlines include beaches, wave-cut benches, wave-built terraces and barrier islands and their lagoons, spits, fjords and coral reefs. 23 .
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