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Old Calabria Old Calabria Norman Douglas Old Calabria Table of Contents Old Calabria..............................................................................................................................................................1 Norman Douglas............................................................................................................................................1 I. SARACEN LUCERA.................................................................................................................................2 II. MANFRED'S TOWN................................................................................................................................6 III. THE ANGEL OF MANFREDONIA.....................................................................................................10 IV. CAVE−WORSHIP................................................................................................................................13 V. LAND OF HORACE..............................................................................................................................17 VI. AT VENOSA.........................................................................................................................................21 VII. THE BANDUSIAN FOUNT...............................................................................................................23 VIII. TILLERS OF THE SOIL....................................................................................................................26 IX. MOVING SOUTHWARDS..................................................................................................................35 X. THE FLYING MONK............................................................................................................................40 XI. BY THE INLAND SEA........................................................................................................................43 XII. MOLLE TARENTUM.........................................................................................................................50 XIII. INTO THE JUNGLE..........................................................................................................................54 XIV. DRAGONS.........................................................................................................................................56 XV. BYZANTINISM..................................................................................................................................59 XVI. REPOSING AT CASTROVILLARI..................................................................................................66 XVII. OLD MORANO................................................................................................................................72 XVIII. AFRICAN INTRUDERS.................................................................................................................75 XIX. UPLANDS OF POLLINO..................................................................................................................80 XX. A MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL................................................................................................................84 XXI. MILTON IN CALABRIA..................................................................................................................90 XXII. THE GREEK SILA......................................................................................................................98 XXIII. ALBANIANS AND THEIR COLLEGE.......................................................................................103 XXIV. AN ALBANIAN SEER.................................................................................................................107 XXV. SCRAMBLING TO LONGOBUCCO............................................................................................110 XXVI. AMONG THE BRUTTIANS........................................................................................................115 XXVII. CALABRIAN BRIGANDAGE....................................................................................................120 XXVIII. THE GREATER SILA................................................................................................................122 XXIX. CHAOS..........................................................................................................................................129 XXX. THE SKIRTS OF MONTALTO.....................................................................................................136 XXXI. SOUTHERN SAINTLINESS........................................................................................................140 XXXII. ASPROMONTE, THE CLOUD−GATHERER...........................................................................152 XXXIII. MUSOLINO AND THE LAW...................................................................................................156 XXXIV. MALARIA..................................................................................................................................159 XXXV. CAULONIA TO SERRA.............................................................................................................163 XXXVI. MEMORIES OF GISSING.........................................................................................................167 XXXVII. COTRONE.................................................................................................................................171 XXXVIII. THE SAGE OF CROTON.......................................................................................................175 XXXIX. MIDDAY AT PETELIA.............................................................................................................178 XL. THE COLUMN..................................................................................................................................179 i Old Calabria Norman Douglas This page copyright © 2003 Blackmask Online. http://www.blackmask.com • I. SARACEN LUCERA • II. MANFRED'S TOWN • III. THE ANGEL OF MANFREDONIA • IV. CAVE−WORSHIP • V. LAND OF HORACE • VI. AT VENOSA • VII. THE BANDUSIAN FOUNT • VIII. TILLERS OF THE SOIL • IX. MOVING SOUTHWARDS • X. THE FLYING MONK • XI. BY THE INLAND SEA • XII. MOLLE TARENTUM • XIII. INTO THE JUNGLE • XIV. DRAGONS • XV. BYZANTINISM • XVI. REPOSING AT CASTROVILLARI • XVII. OLD MORANO • XVIII. AFRICAN INTRUDERS • XIX. UPLANDS OF POLLINO • XX. A MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL • XXI. MILTON IN CALABRIA • XXII. THE GREEK SILA • XXIII. ALBANIANS AND THEIR COLLEGE • XXIV. AN ALBANIAN SEER • XXV. SCRAMBLING TO LONGOBUCCO • XXVI. AMONG THE BRUTTIANS • XXVII. CALABRIAN BRIGANDAGE • XXVIII. THE GREATER SILA • XXIX. CHAOS • XXX. THE SKIRTS OF MONTALTO • XXXI. SOUTHERN SAINTLINESS • XXXII. ASPROMONTE, THE CLOUD−GATHERER • XXXIII. MUSOLINO AND THE LAW • XXXIV. MALARIA • XXXV. CAULONIA TO SERRA • XXXVI. MEMORIES OF GISSING • XXXVII. COTRONE • XXXVIII. THE SAGE OF CROTON • XXXIX. MIDDAY AT PETELIA • XL. THE COLUMN Old Calabria 1 Old Calabria Etext by Eric Eldred I. SARACEN LUCERA I find it hard to sum up in one word the character of Lucerathe effect it produces on the mind; one sees so many towns that the freshness of their images becomes blurred. The houses are low but not undignified; the streets regular and clean; there is electric light and somewhat indifferent accommodation for travellers; an infinity of barbers and chemists. Nothing remarkable in all this. Yet the character is there, if one could but seize upon it, since every place has its genius. Perhaps it lies in a certain feeling of aloofness that never leaves one here. We are on a hilla mere wave of ground; a kind of spur, rather, rising up from, the southquite an absurd little hill, but sufficiently high to dominate the wide Apulian plain. And the nakedness of the land stimulates this aerial sense. There are some trees in the Belvedere or public garden that lies on the highest part of the spur and affords a fine view north and eastwards. But the greater part were only planted a few years ago, and those stretches of brown earth, those half−finished walks and straggling pigmy shrubs, give the place a crude and embryonic appearance. One thinks that the designers might have done more in the way of variety; there are no conifers excepting a few cryptomerias and yews which will all be dead in a couple of years, and as for those yuccas, beloved of Italian municipalities, they will have grown more dyspeptic−looking than ever. None the less, the garden will be a pleasant spot when the ilex shall have grown higher; even now it is the favourite evening walk of the citizens. Altogether, these public parks, which are now being planted all over south Italy, testify to renascent taste; they and the burial−places are often the only spots where the deafened and light−bedazzled stranger may find a little green content; the content, respectively, of L'Allegro and Il Penseroso. So the cemetery of Lucera, with its ordered walks drowned in the shade of cypressroses and gleaming marble monuments in betweenis a charming retreat, not only for the dead. The Belvedere, however, is not my promenade. My promenade lies yonder, on the other side of the valley, where the grave old Suabian castle sits on its emerald slope. It does not frown; it reposes firmly, with an air of tranquil and assured domination; it has found its place, as an Italian observed to me. Long before Frederick Barbarossa made it the centre of his southern dominions, long before the Romans
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