STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21

UNIT CONTENT PAGE Nr

I GARDENS 02

II PROPAGATION TECHNIQUES 13

III COMPONENTS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENS 26

IV VEGETABLE GARDEN & KITCHEN GARDEN 37

V INDOOR GARDENING 46

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UNIT - I GARDEN

A garden is a planned space, usually outdoors, set aside for the display, cultivation, or enjoyment of plants and other forms of nature.

Gardens may exhibit structural enhancements including statuary, follies, pergoals, trellises, stumperies, dry creek beds and water features such as fountains, ponds (with or without fish), waterfalls or creeks. Some gardens are for ornamental purposes only, while some gardens also produce food crops, sometimes in separate areas, or sometimes intermixed with the ornamental plants.

Gardening is the activity of growing and maintaining the garden. This work is done by professional gardener.

TYPES OF GARDENS: i. Formal Garden ii. Informal Garden i. Formal Garden The gardens of Greece and Rome assured an emotional security though their formal style. The Persian, Moorish gardens of Spain and Mughal gardens were also of the same kind and were strictly formal, symmetrical and geometrical resembling a carpet. The Italian renaissance garden was having intricate geometric designs, sheared trees, trimmed hedges and edges to create formality. The impact of formalism influenced the French and British gardens also in the form of parterre, the much divided flower beds.

The key features of formal design 1. The design is stiff as everything is done in a straight and narrow way. 2. If there is a plant on the left hand side of a straight road, a similar plant must be planted at the opposite place on the right hand side i.e., mirror image of each other. 3. The plan is symmetrical with square, rectangular and roads cut at right angles. 4. It has a sort of enclosure or boundary. 5. Flower beds are arranged in geometric designs. 6. The arrangement of trees and shrubs is necessarily geometrical and kept in shape by trimming and training.

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7. Other features like fountains, water pools, cascades etc. are used for further attraction.

Demerits 1. Formal gardens have no ‘secrets’ and the element of surprise is lost. 2. However, attractive focal points at terminal and intersecting points of paths and roads are provided to make the formal garden effective. 3. Present day home gardens are laid out in formal design only at the frontage.

Informal style 1. The idea behind this design is to imitate nature. 2. Hindu, Buddhist and Japanese gardens lay no emphasis on formality. 3. Woodlands (vanams) and running water (streams and rivers) was the main feature around 4. which the garden was created in natural way. 5. Brindavan of Lord Krishna was woodland. 6. Every temple was provided with irregular shaped lotus tanks. (Latter on such tanks were given masonry boundary either rectangular or square). 7. Japanese developed a naturalistic style of gardening. It is in Japanese garden that the asymmetric balance has been perfected. 8. The impact of industrial climate drove the British to opt for natural gardens later. 9. The further man is isolated from nature (due to industrial revolution) the deep is thelonging to go back to nature. 10. The industrialized cities have become concrete jungles with no flavour and aroma of nature. To avert this, the concept of natural gardens was given impetus. 11. Nature’s projection of mountains, oceans, rivers and lakes on a larger canvas of earth’s surface is informal with all its grandeur. Such grandeur is mimicked in informal gardens.

Key features of informal style / natural style 1. This style reflects naturalistic effect of total view and represents natural beauty. 2. It is contrast to formal style. 3. Plan is asymmetrical according to the land available for making the garden. 4. Smooth curvaceous outlines are more appropriate. 5. Water bodies are more irregular in shape. 6. Features such as hillocks, waterfalls, lakes, islands, cascades, rocks, shola and rustic hutments are provided to create rural effect. 7. Plants are appropriately grouped and they are not trimmed, so as to avoid geometrical arrangements.

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English garden English gardens are the most beautiful gardens among all European gardens.

The reasons are that the UK enjoys the typical grassland climate with well distributed rainfall which is favourable for the growth of herbaceous perennials. Since they were ruling many countries, valuable plant collection was possible from diverseareas.

The key features of British gardens in India are: a. Lawn b. Rockery and c. Herbaceous border a. Lawn: Grass lawn is a principal feature of English garden. A lawn can be of any shape and it may be plain or undulating. It can be laid by seed, turfing or plastering. b. Rockery: It is the second important feature of an English garden. There are various types of rockeries. a. Cold weather rockery of annuals like Alyssum, Calendula, Candytuft, Dianthus, Ageratum, Gaillardia, Verbena, Zinnia. b. Rockery of succulents for dry areas. c. Rockery of ferns in humid areas. c. Herbaceous border: Flower beds or borders are characteristic feature of a British garden. The height of the plant, time, duration and overall colour scheme are taken into consideration.

It is usually designed in three rows with tall and dwarf ones on the sides and the medium ones in the middle.

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Mughal gardens  The great Mughal Emperor Babur had high aesthetic sense and was fond of gardens.  Garden of Panipet and Aram bagh garden at Agra are still maintained.  Mughal gardens are synonymous of formal style of gardening.

Broadly Mughal gardens can be categorized into two: i. Pleasure gardens of kings and queens ii. Tomb garden.

The former gardens were made with the sole purpose of pleasure of king and Queen and family members whereas the latter gardens were attached to tombs of king or queen for giving peace to soul.

General features of Mughal gardens Gardens are formal in style; symmetrically designed in rectangular or square plots.

The garden area is divided into four plots by water channels. These four channels represent four rivers of life. The running water provides coolness and freshness to the garden. Reflection of sky and trees provide unique beauty to the eye. The four plots are planted with trees, shrubs, etc., The axis is straight and central and sometimes represented by trees line. The water pool created in the centre with over flowing water serves as central specimen. Fountains, cascades are linked to central pool to create scenic beauty. Example: Taj Garden

Terraces:

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Terraces are components to maintain the proportion of land for extended view irrespective of topography of the area 7, 8 or 12 terraces symbolize 7 planets, 8 paradise and 12 zodiacal signs.

Running water (Nahars): i. Water is the life and soul of Mughal garden. ii. The idea of constructing canals and tanks to keep the water brimming to the level of paths on either side was borrowed from Persians. iii. Water channels were paved with tiles of brilliant blue color to reflect the sky and give impression of depth.

Site and design: i. A perennial river, the slope of a hill and river banks were the places selected for this purpose. ii. A typical Mughal garden is square or rectangle in shape.

High protecting wall: i. Mughal gardens are protected by a high strong wall. The top of the wall is adorned with serrated battlements. ii. The presence of high wall was for protection against enemy and hot winds of summer. Entrance: i. Entrance is generally tall and gorgeous. ii. Doors are huge and strong wooden structure studded with heavy iron nails and spikes. iii. Heavy gates are provided to protect the kings and gardens from enemy attack.

Baradari: i. It is a canopied building with twelve open doors i.e., three in each direction. ii. From baradari, one can sit and enjoy the fresh breeze and watch dark clouds and birds in the sky. iii. The masonry pillars of baradari were painted with designs of flowers in vases and the floor was furnished with thick carpets and cushions.

Scented flowers: i. The flowers in Mughal gardens are mostly scented in nature and highly colourful.

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ii. The colourful effects are created by massing mixed coloured annuals. Mixed colours have been preferred rather than mono, complementary colours.

Symbolism in Mughal gardens i. Water: Source of life ii. Eight divisions: Eight divisions of Quran iii. Alternate planting of cypress and flowering trees: immortality and renewal of life. iv. White flowering Bauhinia alba: Youth and life.

Japanese garden

Japanese gardens style is ‘nature in miniature’ which enables them to meditate, be in harmony with nature even while they are busy with daily routine. Japanese garden designs were based on their respective ideas of heaven. One most admirable feature of the Japanese garden is that while other major styles of gardening of the world changed radically or fallen into disfavour, the Japanese continued the same style for centuries but still remained popular. This can be attributed to the special relation of the Japanese gardens to nature. A most important teaching of the Japanese garden is possibly that “unless a garden has an air of peace it is not worth a place visiting. It should be a place where the mind finds rest and relaxation.

Forms or types of Japanese gardens A Japanese garden may either be in the form of a large public park or a small family garden. The Japanese gardens are further classified based on positions, shape, and purpose.

The important types are: i. Hill garden ii. Flat garden iii. Tea garden

Hill garden: a. The main features of hill garden are hills, streams and ponds along with other features.

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b. This style is known in Japanese as‘Tsukiyama-niwa or Tsukiyama- sansui’, meaning hills and water.

The features of the hill garden are described below. i. Ornamental water, ii. Islands, Hills and hillocks and Stones iii. Trees

Japanese Tea Gardens In Japanese culture, the tea ceremony has gained the status of national ceremony and has been intricately woven with life style. Tea garden is nature recreated in miniature in front of the house. The present day Japanese tea garden is sectioned into three areas viz., sotoroji (outer section) machi (middle section) and uchiroji (inner section)

Flat gardens Flat gardens lack ups and down and are devoid of hills, streams and ponds. They are created for confined places and are secondary in importance. Mostly ‘Moore’ type gardens are developed to create scenic beauty, other adornments like stones, wells, water basins, trees, etc. are used. Water current of an ocean effect is produced by covering the land surface with pure sand. The rocks or pebbles are so arranged that they give an effect of diversion or rush or water.

Some typical trees of Japanese gardens are: Evergreen trees: Pines, different species of Abies, Cryptomeriajaponica, Podocarpusacrophylla and Juniperuschinensis

Deciduous trees: Maples (Acer species), Poplars (Populus sp.)Mulbery, (Morusalba), and Salix babylonica (willow)

Flowering trees: The most commonly used plants are different Prunus species, besides Magnolia grandiflora and others.

Shrubs: Aucuba japonica, Azaleas,Gardenia florida, Nandinadomestica, Camellia, Lagestroemiaindica, Rhododendrons.

Bamboos play a special role in the Japanese gardens: The striking patterns of shadow cast by the arching bamboos against paved path, fences, and patios look beautiful. A paved path in the entrance garden bordered by bamboos simulates a grove. The Japanese use more flowers like chrysanthemums, asters (e.g., Aster fastigiatus,A. glehnii,A. microcephalus),carnation, different lilies, irises, lotuses, peonies, and orchids. Among the vines, (Clematis, Lonicera japonica, Ipomoea hederacea (Syn. Pharbitisheadeacea), Ipomoea purpurea (Syn. Pharbitispurpurea), Trachelosermumjasminoides, and Wisteriasinensis are often used.

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BASIC PRINCIPLES OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING Landscaping is an aesthetic branch of Horticulture, which deals with planting of ornamental plants in such a way that it creates a picturesque effect.

Landscape gardening can also be defined as the beautification of a tract of land having a house or other object of interest on it. It is done with a view to create a natural scene by the planting of lawns, trees, shrubs flowering annuals, climbers, creepers, etc.

Further, landscape gardening is both an art and science of the establishment of a ground in such a way that it gives an effect of a natural landscape. It can also be defined as “improving of total living environment for the people”. There are certain basic gardening principles that a gardener should follow to achieve a garden that is pleasing to the senses and provides a pleasant outdoor living space.

These principles are discussed in this chapter. Balance The balance in landscape design is visual equilibrium of different garden elements. Balance can be created in a garden either formal or informal by grouping the components, structures and plants equally on both sides of the imaginary central axis. It is a striking feature in a formal garden. The exact duplication of what is on right on the left imposes a balance. The balance should be colourwise, texture wise and shape wise. Trees as an avenue on one side will not make a balance. Care should be bestowed to create balance in colour and texture.

Proportion Proportion refers to the share of the different parts or components to the whole. It is the relation of the component with other in magnitude.In a landscape garden, the space and area provided for a lawn, paths, borders, trees, buildings etc. should be in right proportion and not equal in proportion.

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Unity Though diverse structures, plants and features are used to create a landscape, there should be a unity among each component and all the components with main building.

Perspective Any object situated at a distance will look small compared to the one of the same size kept close to the vision. Eg. Rail road converges at distance.

Prospect Prospect is the view of a scenery, natural or manmade, through an opening such as window or a gap in the foliage of trees. It is the ‘camera view’ of any scenery. Such prospects can be created in landscape gardening by adopting suitable proportion and unity.

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Restraint Overuse of any component including grouping of plants in a particular location masks the scenic beauty. If all the features whether natural or artificial are kept within bounds or used with restraint, best results can be achieved.

Rhythm Rhythm is measured as cyclic repetition of an object, effect and event. In a garden, rhythm can be infused through cleverly repeated colours and shape, topiaries and hedges etc.

Harmony Harmony is the pleasing effect obtained due to appropriate arrangement and collation of the various garden features. It is the overall effect of various features styles, colours and structures in the total landscape. Every part of the landscape should synchronize into the other and all the components into the whole. No individual component should project itself beyond its expected limit.

Skyline Garden meets the sky in its vertical dimension. Planning a garden should include planning for a skyline also. A peak of a mountain, gigantic trees, an old monumental building, temple towers etc., if available, naturally can be woven into the background design to add beauty to the skyline of trees.

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UNIT - II PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS

Propagation by stem cuttings is the most commonly used method to propagate many woody ornamental plants. Stem cuttings of many favourite shrubs are quite easy to root. A greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by stem cuttings; however, maintaining high humidity around the cutting is critical. If rooting only a few cuttings, you can use a flower pot. Maintain high humidity by covering the pot with a bottomless milk jug or by placing the pot into a clear plastic bag. Cuttings can also be placed in plastic trays covered with clear plastic stretched over a wire frame. Trays must have holes in the bottoms for drainage. The plastic will help keep the humidity high and reduce water loss from the cuttings.

Types of Stem Cuttings The four main types of stem cuttings are  Herbaceous  Softwood  Semi-hardwood  Hardwood

SoftwoodCuttings Softwood cuttings can be used to propagate a wide range of perennials and deciduous shrubs, as well as some trees, in spring and early summer. Material is taken from the soft and flexible young shoot tips, which root readily.

Softwood cuttings are mostly used for propagating hardy and tender perennials suchas Anthemis, Aubrieta, Argyranthemum, Bidens,Osteospermum, Penstemon, Pe largonium, Petunia and Verbena.

This technique can also be used for a wide range of mainly deciduous shrubs, suchas Buddleja, Fuchsia, Hydrangea, Lavatera, Perovskia as well as for some trees, such as Betula, deciduous magnolia and some maples.

Softwood cuttings have the highest rooting potential of any stem cutting and often provide the best chance of rooting species that are difficult to propagate.

Most softwood cuttings are taken in spring and early summer, from the tender new growth of the season. If potted by mid-summer they will develop sufficient roots to survive the winter, otherwise pot up in the following spring.

Cuttings from young plants root more easily; heavily pruning older plants can stimulate new growth that will root quicker than the old growth.

Soft plant material loses moisture rapidly, so care needs to be taken to prevent wilting.

Procedure: i. Collect material early in the day when it is full of water (turgid) ii. Collect non-flowering shoots, as they will root more readily

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iii. Remove up to 10cm (4inch) of shoot, cutting off the material neatly above a bud on the parent plant iv. Place the cuttings material in a clean plastic bag with a label. Store the bag of material in the fridge if you cannot prepare the cuttings immediately

Preparing nodal softwood cuttings Most softwood cuttings are nodal, i.e. cut at the bottom just below the leaf joint or node, where there is a concentration of hormones to stimulate root production. Using a sharp knife trim below a node to make a cutting about 5-10cm (2-4inch) long. Remove the lower leaves, pinch out the soft tip and dip the base of the cutting in hormone rooting powder or liquid. Make a hole for the cutting in aa container of cuttings compost using a dibber (a clean blunt stick) and insert the base of the cutting with the first pair of leaves just above the level of the compost. Label the pot and water it from above to settle the compost Place the pot in a closed propagator case with bottom heat of 18-24C (64-75F). Covering with a plastic bag and placing somewhere warm will suffice if no other equipment is available, but remove the bag to ventilate the cutting at least twice a week for 10 minutes. Commercial nurseries use mist units to provide constant humidity.

Cuttings should be placed in good light but not direct, scorching sunlight. Covering with fleece will help diffuse bright sunlight.

Ensure the compost is moist until the cuttings are well-rooted which takes about 6 to 10 weeks Once rooted, harden off the cuttings for about two weeks and pot them on individually. Covering with fleece or gradually increasing the ventilation of plastic bags or propagators will allow the soft leaves to develop a robust water-proof cuticle so that they can survive in lower humidity environments

Remove any dead, rotting, dying or diseased material at least weekly

Some hard to root plants such as Rhododendron respond well to wounding, removing a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem and then dipping the wound in hormone rooting compound. Others, such as Acer palmatum, Cotinus, Lonicera, Jasminum and Sambucus can be removed from the parent plant with a heel, pulling off the stem with a ‘tail’ of bark from the previous season’s growth. The heel is then dipped in hormone rooting compound.

Preparing basal softwood cuttings These are similar to nodal cuttings except they are taken from clusters of young shoots at the base of herbaceous plants in spring. This technique is suitable for Aster, Chrysanthemum, Delphinium, Lupinus, Phlox and Salvia.

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Select sturdy shoots 7-10cm (3-4in) high with the leaves just unfolding. Using a sharp knife remove them as close to the base as possible, including part of the woody basal tissue. Then treat as nodal cuttings.

Greenwood cuttings These are taken a little later in the season than softwood cuttings, usually from late spring to mid-summer.

They are similar to softwood cuttings except the base of the stem is firmer as it has had longer to mature.

Prepare greenwood cuttings as you would softwood cuttings, but make them a bit longer, generally 7.5-12.5cm (3-5in) long.

This technique is suitable for berry fruits, Ceanothus, Forsythia and Philadelphus.

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Layering Layering is the development of roots on a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant. The stem or branch that develops adventitious roots while still attached to the parent plant is called a layer.

In these methods, the rooting of layers takes place in the ground media or in pots containing rooting media. Different kinds of ground layering are as follows.

Simple layering: It consists of bending down a shoot and burying a part of it in the soil sothat the tip is in air. The buried portion is wounded by a single stroke upwards on the undersideof theshoot to be buried. The layered branch is held firmly in position by pegs and large stones on the surface of the soil above the bending. Roots are formed at the buried portion where the cut has beenmade. The bent portion is completely covered with soil. Ex: Rose, Jasmine, etc.

Air layering; This method is also known as Chinese layering, pot layerage, gootee, marcottage or cir- cumposition. In this method, the roots are induced to form on the aerial part of the plant wherethestem is girdled or slit at an upward angle.

Girdling consists of removal of a strip of bark of 2.5 to 3 cm wide around the stem. Scraping the exposed surface to ensure complete removal of phloem and cambium is desirable to retard healing.

The injured portion is enclosed with rooting medium like Sphagnum moss or Vermiculite which is maintained continuously moist by wrapping with polythene sheets. The polythene sheets permit gaseous exchange but are impervious to water. The roots are formed on the upper portion of the cut end of the ring. When the stem or shoot has produced a good root system, a first cut is given half way through the stem just below the point of rooting. Next cut is given 15 days later and the rooted stem removed. As the root system is small when compared to the shoot system, the rooted layer is planted in pots to produce more roots before planting in the field.

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Budding This is a grafting technique in which a single bud from the desired scion is used rather than an entire scion containing many buds. It is an art of inserting a bud on the root stock in such a way that both will unite and continue to grow as a single individual plant. Shield or ‘T’ Buddingor ‘ ’ Budding: In the root stock, a transverse or horizontal cut of 1 to 1.5cm length is made first. Below or above this cut a vertical⊥ cut of 2.5 to 3 cm length is made and connected to the horizontal cut. Two flaps of the bark should be opened with help of knife (ivory edge).

The cuts are given in the stock at the height of 5 to 25cm above the soil in a smooth bark surface. In thescion, 1.25cm above the bud, a slanting cut is made and 2.5cm long bud is taken in the shape of a shield.

Insert the bud by pushing it downward under the two flaps of bark (Horizontal cut of stock and scion should be even).Then budded portion is covered with plastic tape or adhesive tape.

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Grafting It is an art of inserting a part of one plant into another plant by exposing the actively growing tissue so that they will unite and continue their growth as one plant. Scion is the upper part of the graft and from which stem and branches will grow into a plant. Root stock is the lower part of the graft and this forms the root system of the grafted plant. Root stock is also called as stock or under stock.

ApproachGrafting or Inarching In this method rootstock are raised in pots. Then they are brought near the mother plant. Here scion remains in mother plant.

One year old seedlings of pencil thickness are selected. Above ground level at 15 to 20cm height in rootstock, 5 to 8cm long slice of bark with wood is removed.

This cut should be smooth and it tapers gently towards the tip and bottom. Same type of cut is made on scion and the two cuts are placed face to face and tied firmly with banana fiber and then with twine over it. i. After that union is covered with a mixture of cow dung and mud in equal parts. ii. After 6-8 weeks top of rootstock is removed above graft union and base of scion below the graft union. First half cut is given and another half cut is given after an interval of 10 days.

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Pruning Pruning is the proper and judicious removal of plant parts such as shoots, spurs, leaves, roots or nipping away of terminal parts etc. to correct or maintain tree structure and increase its usefulness. It is done to a. make the plant more productive and bear quality fruits, b. increase longevity of the tree, c. make it into manageable shape d. to get maximum returns from the orchard. e. Pruning is a dwarfing process and can be used to maintain any desired tree size. f. Removal of a branch removes not only stored carbohydrates but reduces the potential leaf surface as well. g. Pruning increases fruit size, nitrogen per growing point and stimulates growth near the cut. Excessive pruning reduces fruitfulness especially with young vigorous trees that may already be developing too much vegetative growth. h. Large cuts results in excessive stimulation of sprouts near the cut, while well distributed small cuts spreads the stimulus better over the entire tree.

The severity, kind and amount of pruning to be done on a tree depend on the i. age, ii. existing framework, iii. condition of bark and wood, iv. Growth characteristics v. Fruiting habit of the variety vi. Whether tree is permanent or filler

Pruning is most often done during the winter, commonly referred to as dormant pruning.

Principle of Pruning To admit more sunlight, remove unproductive branches which are producing few or no fruits and also to keep the plant in its proper vigour, vitality and to obtain optimum yields of good quality fruits

Types of Pruning i. Thinning out ii. Heading Back iii. Bulk Pruning iv. Thin wood Pruning i. Thinning out: When a shoot is entirely removed from the point of its origin and no re-growth is allowed to occur from the cut ends. ii. Heading back: When the terminal portion of branch/shoot is removed and it encourages lateral growth from the remaining shoot. iv. Thin wood pruning: refers to the removal of slow growing, weak, under hanging branches or shoots which are either not fruiting or producing fruits of low quality.

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Bench Cut - removes vigorous, upright shoots back to side branches that are relatively flat and outward growing.

Garden Implements: A garden tool is any one of many tools made for gardening and overlaps with the range of tools made for agriculture and horticulture. Garden tools can be divided into hand tools and power tools.

Digging Digging is one of gardening’s most basic tasks. Ever since man gave up using his hands in favor of picking up a stick to help him dig, the tools people use to turn and move soil have become more diverse in their design and specialized in their uses. Knowing the range of digging tools available and what each of them is designed to do will help you choose the right digging tool for the job.

Shovels and Spades A shovel, with its rounded edge and body, is better for moving material from one place to another, though you can certainly use it for digging in soft soil. The square edge of a spade allows you to cut into the soil by pushing down on its back edge with your foot, pulling back the handle like a lever and then turning over the dirt.

Trowels Basically a miniature shovel, a trowel is a hand-sized tool that’s perfect for smaller digging tasks. You can use it to make short seed furrows, dig holes for small plants, remove weeds with shallow roots or plant bulbs. They typically have a pointed end that’s geared for cutting, and some even measure.

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Garden or Spading Forks Garden forks are primarily used to till and aerate the soil. They are especially useful for breaking up heavy clay soil. Not to be confused with a pitchfork, which has slender, round tines for moving straw, a spading fork has flat or square tines that are very strong. The best have at least four tines and a strong D-shaped handle. Buy the sturdiest one you can afford for long- lasting value.

Pick and Mattock This tool is intended for serious digging in hard, packed soil. Often called a pickax, it has a two-sided metal head that's perpendicular to the handle. The pointed pick side is used to break through the soil, while the wide blade of the mattock side is used to chop into the ground. The curved shaped of the head allows the tool be used as a lever to lift up the soil or pry out rocks.

Hoes Usually thought of more as a weeding tool, the perpendicular metal blade of a hoe makes it ideal for digging out rows of soil or forming trenches. Hoes are available with a variety of blade shapes. Pointed, heart-shaped hoe blades are best for digging long furrows. Hoes with square blades are good for loosening soil and digging out weeds by their roots. And triangular hoes can break up heavy, compacted soil as well as fit into tight spots for light digging.

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Pruning shears Pruning not only helps keep your landscaping beautiful, but it’s also necessary to promote tree growth and health. In order to do your best pruning, you’ll need the right tools to get it all done.

Pruning shears (or pruners, clippers or secateurs) These are probably the most-used tool when it comes to pruning shrubs, flowers, vines and small growth on trees. Pruning shears are hand-held and can cut branches and twigs up to ¾ of an inch thick. There are three basic types of pruning shears: anvil, bypasse, and ratchets. A bypass is the most popular of the three and acts like scissors. It is good for growing stems. Anvil pruners feature a straight blade that uses a splitting action. They work well for dry branches and stems. Ratchet pruners are similar to anvil pruners, but they feature a mechanism that cuts in stages. Ratchet pruners are good for those who don’t want to strain their wrists.

Loppers Great for branches up to 2 ½ inches thick and are especially useful for pruning fruit trees, nut trees, and vines. This tool is really similar to a pair of hand shears but the blades are thicker and the handle is much longer. Loppers also come in anvil, bypass and ratchet styles.

Pruning Saws Next in the pruning tool lineup is a pruning saw which is capable of taking on branches from 1 ½ to 5 inches in diameter and are available in many different styles.

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4. Hedge Shears Hedge shears are great if you have hedges, small shrubs, evergreens, or deadheading perennials. They can be used on any hedge shrub and cut branches up to 2 ¼ inches thick.

5. Pole Pruner To reach dead wood in trees or for light pruning, a pole pruner (tree pruner) is a must-have. Pole pruners can generally be used on any tree and can cut through branches up to 1 ¼ inch in diameter. The best part is that most pole pruners can reach 8 feet or more, eliminating the need for a ladder in many cases. It’s also important to note that there are electric pole pruners.

Garden rake The farmers and professional landscapers use mechanically powered tools to prepare the soil, home gardeners with smaller plots of land can easily do the same with simple garden rake. Unlike a leaf rake, a garden rake is made of rigid metal with a straight bow set with 3-inch teeth. Raking the soil is usually done before planting the seeds. Rakes are also used to press the seeds into the soil after they have been sown.

 Slip on your gardening gloves to protect your hands. Use a spade to turn over the top 12 inches of soil.  Break up large chunks of earth with the rake. Smash them with the flat side of the rake.

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 Remove any large rocks, sticks and other debris that may interfere with seed germination and growth.  Rake the soil so that the surface of the plot is smooth and level. Start in one corner and work your way across the plot. This loosens the earth, which makes it easier for seeds to germinate and grow.  Sow the seeds according to the directions on the package. Most grass, wildflower and annual seeds only require being sown at a depth of about 1/4 inch.  Scatter the seeds on top of the soil, and then gently run the rake across the top of the seeds. Then, use the back of the spade to carefully press the seeds into the earth.

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UNIT - III COMPONENTS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDEN Hedges: A fence or boundary formed by closely growing bushes or shrubs. i.Classification of Hedges ii.Growing of Hedges iii.Maintenance

When shrub is planted on boundary for fencing, it is called as hedge. It may be ornamental or protective or both. Hedges also become an important feature of formal layout to serve various functions as screening of the area, out buildings, tennis courts, vegetable gardens, hiding of unwanted places, etc. All the shrubs cannot be planted for making an ideal hedge due to different nature of growth. Only some selected shrubs are used for making an effective hedge.

For selecting an ideal shrub for a hedge, it should have following characteristics: i. It should have thick texture and quick growth. ii. It should stand trimming to shape. iii. It should be easily propagated through seeds or cuttings. iv. It should withstand drought conditions. v. It should not attract reptiles or other animals. i. Classification of Hedges: Hedges are planted to protect the area to avoid the trespassing by man or animals or to beautify the boundary of different.

Therefore, according to purpose, hedge can be classified as: 1. Tall protective hedges: The height is about 1-3 m and growth is very dense along with thorns. The plants that can be selected are: Inga dulcis, Acacia fernesiana, Carrisacarandus, Bougainuillea sp., etc.

2. Dwarf protective hedges: Dwarf shrub grows about 1 m and have thorns and are protective in nature e.g. Euphorbia bojori, Opuntia sp., Agave sp., Pedilanthus sp., etc.

3. Tall ornamental hedges: Shrubs grow 1-3 m tall and have attractive foliage. Plants produce colourful flowers also e.g. Lawsonia alba,Durantaplumieri, Dodoneauiscosa, Casuarinaequisetifolia, Murrayapanniculata, Theuetiaperuviana, Hibiscus rosasinensis, Stenolobium starts, Hamelia patens etc.

4. Dwarf ornamental hedges: Height of dwarf hedge is about 1 m and plants are very attractive e.g. Acalypha sp., clerodendroninerme, Thunbergiaerecta, Daedalacanthusneruosus, Lantana sp., etc. ii. Growing of Hedges: Preparation of soil: Hedge plants can be grown in various kinds of soil. For better growth of plants soil should be deep, well drained and fertile. If the soil is not so good, it should be changed up to

Page 24 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 the upper 45 cm profile with fertile garden soil. Hedges are planted in the garden for various purposes and persist for many years.

Therefore, planning and preparation of ground should be done carefully. For making a good growth of hedge, a trench about 60-75 cm deep and 30-60 cm wide should be dug up and left exposed for a fortnight or so before planting, in order to destroy harmful microflora and insects by scorching sun. Then it should be refilled with soil and sufficient amount of well rotten farmyard manure.

Planting time: The most suitable time of planting hedge is rainy season. In the beginning of monsoon weather conditions are hot and humid. Therefore, during August, when temperature cools down, planting can be done safely. Planting can also be done during February-March depending upon the availability of regular supply of water and planting material.

Planting method: Rooted cuttings or seeds are planted. The distance of planting for tall hedge should be about 60-90 cm and for dwarf hedge it should be about 20-30 cm. The planting should be done by triangular system so that it makes a good dense hedge.

iii. Maintenance of Hedges: Irrigation: Water requirement of hedges depends upon season and soil types. During rainy season generally no irrigation is required except during drought conditions. During winter season, watering is required once in 10-15 days and at weekly intervals during summer season. In light soil more frequent watering is requiring than in heavy soils.

Weeding: Weeds should not be allowed to grow to compete with hedge plants specially in early stages and hence weeds should be removed as they make their appearance.

Trimming:

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When the hedge plants attain a height of 15 cm they should be topped back to 10 cm height with the garden shears. This will result into production of several side growths on each plant. If such topping is not done and plants are allowed to grow unchecked, hedges will not be dense and look untidy. Topping is done many times till desired height is achieved.

Later on hedges can be trimmed to get different shapes. The fop of hedges can be kept flat, wavy, blocks of square or any shape. The frequency of trimming depends upon season and type of plants. In rainy reason frequent trimming is required because plants make faster growth than winter or summer season. Faster growing plants need frequent trimming than the slow growing ones.

Edges When low growing perennial plants are grown on the border of plots or beds, they are called as edge plant or an edge. These plants hardly grow up to 20-30 cm. Like hedges, they also become a part of formal or informal landscape designs. In garden, edges are also planted around rockery, big trees, alongside walks, pathways and to divide the area.

Their culture is similar to that of hedges. The edge plants are usually propagated through terminal cutting during rainy season and stand against trimming. There are only few plants suitable for making perennial edge e.g. Eupatorium cannabium, Justicea sp., Iresinelindenii and Alternantheraamoena and A. versicolour.

Flower beds Flower beds can be made directly on the roof. This can be achieved by placing the soil between the outer wall or the parapet and a wall built on the inner side with the help of moisture-proof wood shuttering stones, or bricks.

The width of such boxes will vary according to the available space, the nature of the plants to be grown, and other factors. Such beds directly constructed on the roof surface are not preferred always, as they are of permanent nature and may also damage the roof.

Alternatively, the best method will be to arrange a series of containers holding soil, such as boxes, pots troughs, tubs, etc.,

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These are placed over wedges or bricks to leave a clear gap between them and the roof for proper drainage and passage of air.

Perennial Flower Bed for Summer-long Blooms A flower bed filled with perennials is just the thing for blooms that last the entire summer then return year after year. Try a bed with a serpentine border dominated by pink begonias edged with smaller white begonias. Break up the pink and add height with discreet plantings of boxwood, miscanthus grass, barberries, day lilies and tall, orange canna lilies.

Combining Tulips with Annuals and Perennials Space your flowers out so that the tulips stand taller than your shorter, low-growing annuals and perennials. Your tulips will return for several years when winters are cold, but may not survive when grown in warmer, moist climates.

Side Yard Plant, Flower, and Herb Garden It’s perfectly acceptable to mix ornamental flowers with herbs, as long as they can be planted together. Try chives and different species of basil along with hosta lilies, heuchera, hen and chicks and ornamental grasses. Strategically placed round cobbles give the bed a certain gravitas. Their hard, rough brown surfaces go well with the soft green of plants and herbs.

Flower Bed with Clay Pots When it comes to convenience, nothing beats flowers planted in clay pots half-buried in a bed of gravel. Bulbs do fantastically well with this scheme, including these party-colored tulips. Other flowers that sprout from bulbs or corms that would do well here are daffodils, members of the allium family such as onions and garlic and crocus.

Arches The arches are inside the garden and are often connecting the areas. They vary in sizes and shapes and designs. They are generally at the starting or end of paths. Generally climbers and twinners are grown so that they climb on arches framework. Thus the purpose is to support climbing plants.

Garden arches have been important landscape elements for centuries. Over time they have been fashioned from materials including wood, stone, metal, plastic — or even trees or shrubs trained, tied and clipped into arching configurations. Arches can fulfill several important landscape functions: supporting plants, serving as garden focal points, and framing desirable views. A sequence of arches can be used to delineate a garden walkway. The choice of style and

Page 27 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 material depends on the purpose of the arch as well as the overall style of the garden or landscape.

Focal Points In the 18th century, arches and other architectural features were occasionally used as "eye catchers" or focal points, sometimes even standing alone in artificially created "wilderness" landscapes. A simple garden arch made of wood or metal can also be the focal point of a modern cottage-type garden, especially when the arch is positioned at the end of a path or walkway. Often arches used in this way support climbing roses or other vines.

Frames Arches also make excellent frames, drawing the eye to another part of the garden or to the landscape beyond. This is especially effective if the view being framed is dramatic -- mountains, the ocean or significant structures in the distance. Used this way, the arch creates a "borrowed landscape," making whatever is framed into an integral part of a specific garden or landscape space.

Plant Selection The plant choice should be governed by the situation (sun or shade), the style of the garden and the size of the arch. Large vines like wisteria need extremely solid, heavy arches to support their significant weight. Smaller arches can support climbing roses, clematis and other climbing shrubs, perennials and annuals. Whether or not they support climbing plants, arches can also be flanked by hedges of box, privet or other dense shrubs.

Rockery Rock Garden: Rocks and soils are arranged such a fashion that conditions is created for the growth of different plants.In nature, rocks may be getting covered with different colored moss and if soil collected in cracks and crevices of rocks, plants grow there naturally.

Selection of site: It is easy to create rock garden where natural rocks are available nearby. But large rock garden should be situated in a place where there will fit with the other gardenfeatures. Apart from this corners, middle part of informal garden, under large trees are better places for creating rock garden.

Characteristics of rocks:

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The rocks should be of local origin, porous and have a weathered look. Stones having diameter of 60cm or more should be selected. As well as the rock plants growing in rocks itself.

Construction procedure a. First plan of the rock garden should be prepared on paper b. Selected site should be marked out by using bars and pegs. c. The base should be filled with sufficient quantity of broken bricks, small stones and sand for proper drainage. d. Form the mound of required height by filling sufficient quantity of soil, the mound should be allowed to settle for some time and formed by beating. e. Create the steps, place the stones on the mound, the stone should be placed in a slightly slanting position gently leaning backwards, so that rain water and during watering, it flows towards the plant roots. f. Sufficient number of pockets is created between stones for growing plants. While placing rocks side by side, they should be placed as close as possible otherwise soil will be washed away. Gaps between two stones should be covered with concrete. Concrete should be restricted to minimum. g. Add garden soils up to a depth of 30cm. Mix together equal parts of sand and FYM. h. Position the plants along with the pots so that one can see how they look and can move them around easily if necessary. i. Use a trowel to take out a hole a little larger than root ball, plant is at correct depth, then tight loose soil around the roots and firms it well. j. Finish off rockery by covering the surface by small pebbles, which increases the beauty and prevents soil erosion.

Maintenance Weeding: Periodical weeding is necessary to remove the weeds, which are competing with plants. In addition to this all dried and dead leaves should be removed from the branches of the plants.

Stalking: Stalking is necessary for newly planted tall plants to prevent the physical damages and to obtain the straight growth. Watering: Regular watering is necessary to keep the plants healthy and attractive. Watering should be done at least once in three days. Drip system of irrigation may also be adopted.

Replacement of soil: Rockery plants need replacing of soil at least every 2-3 years as the soil become sour and infertile.

Manuring: Plants may be top dressed every year with compost consisting of a good garden soil, sand and fine leaf mould in equal proportion to the top few centimeters of soil is scraped out and in its place new compost is filled in along with a little quantity (125g) bone meal depending upon the plants. Periodically rock plants should be fed with liquid manure also.

Suitable plants

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Annuals: Crossandra, Cuphea, Euphorbia . Zinnia, Phlox,Verbena. Shrubs: Duranta, Juniferous, Lantana sellowiana Cacti and Succulents: Adiantum, Pony tail plant, Opontia, Cerus, Mumalaria, Agave Ferns: Nephrolepsis, Polypodium and Adiantumetc. Shade plants: Imparatiens sultaniana, Pedilanthe stithymaloides, Vincea rosea etc.

Lawn a. A lawn is an area where grass is grown as a green carpet for a landscape and is the basic feature of any garden. b. It serves to enhance the beauty of the garden, be it larger or smaller. Proper lawn maintenance plays a crucial part in any landscape design. c. A beautiful well maintained lawn can make the entire landscape look good, whereas a lawn that is not maintained can completely ruin it's beauty. d. The lawn not only harmonizes with a decor of the drawing room, but also sets of a suitable background for a specimen tree or a shrub, as well as for colourful beds and borders. e. The position of the lawn largely depends upon the layout of the garden in relation to the house. In general lawn should be wide open with access to direct sunshine, especially in front of a rockery and a water pool.

Site and Soil After choosing the site, the next important factor for consideration is the size and shape of the lawn. The preparation of site includes digging, levelling and enriching the soil with organic manures or by amending with fertile soil. If the soil is very heavy, coarse sand may be added by removing subsoil to a depth of 20 cm. The ideal soil pH should be 5.0 to 5.6. If it is very acidic 500 g/m2 lime should be added and to clayey loam or alkaline soil gypsum of the same quantity may be added. Provision of drainage for excess rain water should be made if the ground is not sloppy.

Levelling The site should be thoroughly levelled with spade, pebbles and weeds are hand picked. The soil is rolled with a roller. Weeds especially nut grass should not be allowed to grow and should be removed with roots for at least 2 to 3 times.

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Methods of lawn making 1. Seeding The most popular grass suitable for seeding is "Doob" grass (Cynodondactylon). It has the fast spreading mat forming habit, radially forms roots at the nodes, the foliage is dark green, narrow with parallel vines. A lawn from seed is thought of only when grass roots are not available. About 30 kg of seed is required for planting one hectare. The soil should be reduced to fine tilth and given a light rolling. The site should be divided into suitable small squares or rectangles, the seeds are mixed with double the quantity of finely sieved soil and should be rolled again and watered liberally with rose can. The seeds take four to five weeks for germination. Care should be taken not to flood the site. For the first few times, the grasses are cut with a scythe. Lawn mower may be used for easy maintenance and for its spreading.

2. Turfing The turfs are nothing but pieces of earth with compact grasses on them. These turfs should be cut uniformly in squares from a place where the grass is short, compact and free from weeds. These turfs should be placed on the prepared ground site, side by side and beaten down flat with a turf beater. The cavities in between should be filled with fine soil. The entire turfed area should be rolled and watered liberally. This is the most expensive way of lawn making.

3. Turf plastering The doob grass can be procured in large quantities free from weeds and chopped properly into small bits of 5-7 cm long. Two baskets of chopped grass pieces should be mixed well with one basket each of garden soil and fresh cow dung and a shovel full of wood ash with required quantity of water to form a thick pasty substance. This mixture is then spread uniformly on the surface of a previously wetted perfectly levelled ground to a thickness of at least 2.5cm and watering should be done with a rose can. The next day, ground should be rolled and the grass should be allowed to spread. The grass will shoot up in a fortnight. To start with, cut with a scythe and after three months, use the lawn mower.

4. Dibbling roots This is the cheapest but time consuming method. Small pieces of grass roots should be dibbled 10 – 15 cm apart in a levelled ground when it is wet after rain. The roots spread and

Page 31 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 grow underground in the course of six months making a fairly compact lawn by frequent mowing, rolling and watering.

After Care: It includes rolling, mowing, watering and restoration of patchy places, which should be done regularly.

Fertilizing the lawn thrice a year is adequate to maintain rich greenness. Application of urea or ammonium sulphate at the rate of 1 kg / 50 sq. m during February - March, June - July and October - November is quite beneficial. At times well decomposed compost at 10 kg / 10 sq. m area will be sufficient as top dressing. Weeds should be removed as soon as they appear, otherwise they spread, seed multiply and overpower the grass. Fill the gaps with grass roots and fine soil. In the absence of rain, watering is done regularly at weekly intervals.

A mower should not be employed until a firm green sword has been formed. The grass is first cut with sickle and the surface is then rolled. Heavy roller should be used frequently but not when the ground is either too wet or dry.

Mowing should be done at brief intervals and never allow to produce seed stalks. Avoid cutting the grass too short as this can damage the grass, inhibit a deeper root system from setting up and give rise to weeds. Different grasses have different heights at which they can grow best, so make sure you enquire about this from the vendor or your landscaping company. The ideal height of most grasses is 3 to 4 inches. Removing more than one-third of the grass leaf in a single cutting is not recommended. Mow only on dry grass and not when the grass is wet. Make sure you mower's blade is a new and sharp before starting a fresh moving session. To ensure smoothness make sure you change the mower's oil once or twice during mowing season.

Once in a year rake the lawn before rain and top dress with rich mixture of decomposed manure and soil. This will accelerate the grass with new vigorous growth.

The best time to water the lawn would be during the early hours of morning. Watering during this time will allow the water to reach the roots without evaporating. Mid afternoons may lead to water getting evaporated soon and watering at night times can give rise to the possibilities of diseases. While watering, care should be taken to spread the water homogeneously across the lawn without over flooding or missing certain areas/spots. If the lawn is placed on heavy slopes make sure that the water does not run-off. Several applications of water would be necessary for such surfaces to ensure adequate penetration.

5. Astro Turf It is a synthetic lawn popularly used in developed countries in roof gardens as well as in play grounds. It dispenses the normal maintenance usually required for normal lawns. Constant sprinkling of water is one of the prime requisite to bind the synthetic fibre to provide a surface akin to a lawn carpet. A spacious lawn though beautiful will often be monotonous. So, to break the monotony, some beautiful tree or shrub is recommended as single specimen in the lawn.

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Topiary

Topiary is the art of shaping plants into extraordinary forms, but that doesn’t mean creating a topiary must be complicated.

Start with the right plant and you’ll have to trim only a few leaves to design an eye- catching topiary standard, or “lollipop.”

Most topiaries are perennial plants trimmed and shaped over several years, but fast- growing annuals can also be trimmed into a stylish standard. In just a few weeks, a standard can take shape and hold its good looks all summer.

The key is to choose a plant with a naturally strong central stem and attractive foliage— such as an upright coleus with splashy colors—and add sturdy support as it grows. Regular care and feeding, along with an occasional pinch or snip, will keep your standard looking snappy. The plant should be amenable for repeated pruning and also flexible with more vegetative growth. Example: For hills –Cupressusmacrocarpa, Pinuspatul; for plains -Casuarina sp., Caesalphiniacoriari, Bougainvillea sp., Clerodendron sp.

Make your own topiary with shrubs Choose the plant It’s easiest to start a shrub topiary with a small juvenile shrub that can be molded as it grows, but you can accomplish an outdoor topiary effect with mature plants as well.

Frame or no frame If you are new to topiary, you’ll want to put topiary forms over the shrubs you choose to sculpt.

Training and pruning When creating a shrub outdoor topiary, you have to take things slowly. Envision how you want your final topiary to look and trim off no more than 3 inches in working towards that

Page 33 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 shape. If you are working on growing a small shrub, prune 1 inch off in areas where you need to fill in. Pruning will encourage additional, bushier growth. If you’re working on shaping a large shrub, take no more than 3 inches off in areas where you wish to cut back.

Training and pruning again We repeated this step because you will need to repeat this step a lot. Train and prune the shrub a little more about every three months during active growth.

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UNIT - IV VEGETABLE GARDENING Types Vegetable farming can be classified into various types depending on the acreage cultivated, method of cultivation and purpose of vegetable production. Based upon these facts, vegetable cultivation is divided into the following types of gardens. In-ground Gardens

Start small with an in-ground garden or raised beds; it is easy to "bite off more than you can chew." A good starter size for a vegetable garden is 50-75 square feet. Expand when you are ready. Start an in-ground garden by preparing the soil.

Larger areas allow gardeners to choose traditional row gardening or gardening in beds. While a row garden is easier to manage with a tractor for planting, harvesting, and other garden chores, planting in a bed makes better use of available space. Using beds allows for several rows to be planted closer together, shading weed seeds and preventing them from growing later in the season. Beds may require a bit more labour to plant initially. But when planted correctly, beds can reduce the need for weeding later in the season. You can also incorporate vegetables in your ornamental beds.

Plants:Cabbage,Corn, Beets, Pumpkins, Watermelon, Squash, Tomatoes, Peppers, Potatoes and Eggplant

Raised Beds Raised beds are improved areas of soil elevated above ground level and often surrounded and contained with boards or other rigid materials. Learn about constructing raised beds.

A variety of materials can be used to construct raised beds, but do not use materials that might leach chemicals into the soil, such as old railroad ties. Soil in raised beds will heat up more quickly in the spring and stay warm longer into the fall. Vegetables in raised beds will require more frequent irrigation than those in an in-ground garden. When planned and planted properly, one 4-foot by 8-foot raised bed may supply a good portion of the produce for one or two people. The addition of trellises provides vertical gardening and increases the space available to vining plants like cucumbers and beans.

Plants: Rhubarb, Asparagus, Beans, Broccoli, Brussels,Pumpkins, Spinach

Container Gardening Container gardening is a simple and fun way to grow edible crops in just about any situation. Even if you have an in-ground vegetable garden you may find it desirable to have containers of herbs and salad greens near the kitchen door. Many vegetables can be grown in containers that are deep enough to support their root systems. Containers may range from as small as a 12-inch flowerpot to a half whisky barrel. The bigger the container, the easier it is to be successful. The larger the mature plant, the larger the container needs to be. Vegetables that do well in containers include beans, beets, carrots, collards, cucumbers, eggplants, garlic, kale, leeks, lettuces, mustard greens, peas, peppers, potatoes, spinach, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Mix and match vegetables in one container for extended beauty and harvest. Containers require more frequent irrigation than

Page 35 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 gardens, especially as the plants grow and require more water. A drip irrigation system connected to a timer is a great addition to a container garden.

Plants: Tomatoes, Potatoes, Cucumbers, Carrots, Peppers, Green onions, Turnips, Green beans, Lettuce, Squash

Community Gardens Our community gardens page has information on existing community gardens and how to start a community garden.Even if you live in an apartment, you can still try your hand at horticulture with a window box garden.

Plants: Tomatoes, carrots, and tubers, build or buy a deeper box. Spices such as oregano, basil, and chive

Truck garden: Truck gardens are usually established in rural areas for supplying a few vegetable crops to a distant market. Here cultivation of a few specialized crops is done on an extensive scale in large area under ideal soil and climatic conditions. Relatively cheap labour and land, mechanical cultivation and high yield result in low production cost in a truck garden.

Plants: Cabbage, Corn, Beets, Pumpkins, Watermelon, Asparagus, Beans, Broccoli

Kitchen garden Kitchen garden is the growing of fruits and vegetables at the backyard of house by using kitchen waste water.

Kitchen garden or home garden or nutrition garden is primarily intended for continuous supply of fresh vegetables for family use.

A number of vegetables are grown in available land for getting a variety of vegetables.

Family members do most of works. Area of garden, lay out, crops selected etc. depend on availability and nature of land.

In rural area, land will not be a limiting factor and scientifically laid out garden can be established.

In urban areas, land is a limiting factor and very often crops are raised in limited available area or in terraces of buildings.

Cultivation of crops in pots or in cement bags is also feasible in cities.

Advantages of Kitchen garden: i. Supply fresh fruits and vegetables high in nutritive value. ii. Supply fruits and vegetables free from toxic chemicals. iii. Help to save expenditure on purchase of vegetables. iv. Vegetables harvested from home garden taste better than those purchased from market. v. Effective utilization of kitchen waste water and kitchen waste materials.

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vi. Exercise to the body and mind.

Site selection: i. Backyard of house ii. Preferably open areas with plenty of sunlight near the water source

Size and shape of vegetable garden depends on Availability of land Number of persons in family and Spare time available for its care Nearly five cents of land (200 m2) is sufficient to provide vegetables throughout year for a family consisting of five members A rectangular garden is preferred than a square plot or a long strip of land. Layout of Kitchen garden

i. Fence – Barbed wire fence or live fence with agathi ii. Perennial crops (Mango, Sapota, Acid lime, Amla, Morniga) should be planted at the peripheral areas of kitchen garden (avoid shading) iii. One or two compost pits may be provided on one corner iv. Fences on all sides should be trained with Cucurbitaceous vegetables (Bottle gourd, Bitter gourd and Snake gourd) v. Some vegetables are direct sown – (Amaranthus, Bottle gourd, Bitter gourd and Snake gourd) vi. Some vegetables are nursery transplanted (Tomato, Brinjal, Chillies, Onion) vii. Divide the area into equal sized plots for raising annual vegetable crops viii. As intensive and continuous cropping is done in a kitchen garden. ix. Fertility and texture of soil may be maintained by applying adequate quantities of organic manures frequently. x. Ridges and furrows are formed in each plots. xi. Season of planting: June – July, September – October

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xii. Bee-hive may be provided for ensuring adequate pollination of crops besides obtaining honey. xiii. Pick and destroy the larvae found on fruits and vegetables and then spray Neem oil @ 4 ml/liter of water or Neem Seed Kernel Extract @ 3 %. xiv. Avoid spraying of toxic chemicals.

Layout of kitchen garden

Methodofplanting : Spacing for crops Tomato, Brinjal and Chillies : 60 x 60 cm Cow pea : 60 x 45 cm Bitter gourd : 2 x 2 meter Onion : 15 x 10 cm Tapioca : 60 x 60 cm Yam : 60 x 60 cm Initially irrigate the plots and transplant the seedling at the required spacing and irrigate on the third day of planting. Direct planting dibble 2-3 seeds/hill and irrigate sufficiently and also irrigate on the third day of sowing after germination thin 2 seedling.

Maintenance of Kitchen garden  Grow the plants on the fence by training  Dump all the kitchen waste in the manure pits and maintain in wet condition Irrigation: As and when necessary

Manures and Fertilizers:  Apply the decomposed kitchen waste to all the crops  Complex fertilizers @ 5 gram/plant at 30, 60 and 90 day of planting

Weeding: As and when necessary

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Harvest: When there is a colour change from green to yellow or orange

Plat Protection  Pick and destroy the larvae found on fruits and vegetables and then spray  Avoid spraying of toxic chemicals.

Organic method of plant protection  Neem oil  Neem seed kernel extract  Panchakavya

Implements used in kitchen garden  Spade  Pick Axe  Hoe  Hand sprayer  Rode can  Rose  Secature

Perennials Perennial, any plant that persists for several years, usually with new herbaceous growth from a part that survives from season to season. Trees and shrubs are perennial, as are some herbaceous flowers and vegetative ground covers. Perennials have only a limited flowering period, but, with maintenance throughout the growing season, they provide a leafy presence and shape to the garden landscape. Popular flowering perennials include bellflowers, chrysanthemums, columbines, larkspurs, hollyhocks, phlox, pinks, poppies, and primroses.

Herbaceous perennials Herbaceous perennials are those perennial plants with soft succulent stems (as compared to shrubs which have woody stems). They are propagated by seeds, cuttings, offset and slips. They are useful as herbaceous or mixed borders or for pot culture.

The following are the examples for herbaceous perennials. Chrysanthemum: Flowers are single or double available in attractive colours. Perennial species include C. frutescens and C. maximum and its varieties. Propagated easily by suckers.

Solidago:Popularly known as 'golden rods' producing erect feathery rod-like trusses crowded with pretty golden yellow flowers. They are suitable for mass planting in beds and borders in and adjoining lawn. They are raised by suckers.

Gerbera: Stemless perennial herbs with radical stalked leaves, flower heads are solitary, large and sterile with varying colours. Propagation by division of clumps or from seed.

Gazaniasplendens:Perennial plant about 20 cm high, with pointed leaves with silver, and bearing beautiful daisy like flowers, in yellow orange shades; useful in beds, borders for edging and carpet bedding and on rockeries, propagated by seed or suckers.

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Perstemon: It has a large erect spikes of tubular, open-mouthed, gloxinia - like flowers, which are available in several shades of colours, a good bedding plant, propagated by seeds, cuttings or division.

Pelargoniums: It is commonly known as geraniums, a popular herbaceous perennial pot plants grown for the beauty of their flowers which are borne in large trusses propagated by cuttings or from seed.

Pandals: Vegetable cultivation on pandals is technological improvement for vegetable crops like Ridge gourd, Bitter gourd, Bottle gourd, Sponge gourd and Coccinia.

Previously pendal cultivation was restricted to Grapes cultivation only. Now a day, It is being used in semi-urban areas for cultivation of high value gourd crops. The pandal is established by using cement pillars or stone pillars having hight of 10 ft and 20-25 cm girth. At the spacing of 15 x 15 mt distance 30 x 45 cms pits is dugged to erect pillars. Approximately 195-200 pillars is required for establishment of one acre pendal for cultivation. Approximately 1.5 ft of pillar is kept in the pit and covered with concrete mixture. Remaining 8.5 ft of pillar will be above the ground. Training and pruning practices are followed to facilitate growth on the pendal resulting in higher yield as compared to open field cultivations.

Fence The Spruce defines a living fence as a fence “made of multiple plants rooted to the ground at a close interval.” It is kept attractive and dense through regular pruning and, of course, constant plant care. It is a great project for anyone who has extensive gardening experience and land big enough to be divided by a living fence.

Living fences are more commonly known as hedgerows and have been around for centuries here in the UK. They are made from various plants, like beech trees and ocotillo, and are longer lasting than wooden fences. Plus, they help control erosion and are very effective wind blockers.

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Growing a Living Fence The first thing you will need to create a living fence is patience because plants, after all, need some time to fully grow. That being said, here are the steps on how to grow a living fence:

1. Choose the right plant. The right plant is one that has proven capable of growing in the area. This should be the number one consideration. The key here is taking some time to study each plant, and select the best one that will suit your land and your skills as a gardener.

2. Plant them close enough to each other. Planting them in close proximity to one another means their branches and leaves will interlock densely to ensure that there are no noticeable gaps in the living fence.

3. Take care of the plants. This represents the true nitty-gritty of creating a living fence, as there will be a need to cultivate the soil with fertiliser every once in a while, water the plants often, and protect them from extreme weather and other harmful elements.

4. Train the plants. This means laying out the branches of the plants so that they naturally grow wide and outward. This encourages the interlocking or crisscross pattern to take place later on when the branches start getting longer and stronger.

5. Prune. Regular pruning removes dead and overgrown branches. But just as important, it stimulates growth. The more the plants grow, the denser the leaves and branches of the hedgerows will be.

Seasonal vegetables crops Plants can be classified by the temperatures which produce optimum growth. The two broadest categories of plants based on temperature are cool-season and warm-season crops.

Knowing these classifications can be useful in producing and managing crops. As the terms imply, warm-season crops grow optimally in higher temperatures than cool- season crops. In Pennsylvania, warm-season crops generally are transplanted into the garden, and may be grown on plastic mulch, rather than direct seeded. This is because the growing season when the temperature is 'warm' enough for these crops to be planted in the garden is often too short for the plants to mature from seed. Cool-season

Page 41 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 crops can often be planted and produced in two growing seasons, in early spring (often prior to the last frost) and in the early fall. They must be planted early enough in the spring to reach maturity before temperatures are too warm and the seeds require cool temperatures to germinate in the fall. Warm-season crops are produced in one growing season that begins after the last spring frost.

Water and fertilizer requirements are also dependent on whether the crop is a cool-season or warm-season crop. Cool-season crops have root systems that are generally shallower than warm-season crops. This means that cool-season plants may need to be watered and fertilized more often. The plants have limited access to water because the root zone is small. Warm-season crops tend to have deeper root systems. They also need to be watered and fertilized often as higher temperatures lead to quicker water loss through plant uptake and evaporation.

In general cool-season crops are root crops and salad greens. Warm-season crops are typically fruits. See the Vegetable Planting and Transplanting Guide for additional growing information on select plants.

Cool Season Vegetables: Artichoke, Asparagus, Beet, Bok Choi, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Chive, Cabbage, Cardoon, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chard, Chicory, Chinese Cabbage, Cress, Daikon, Dandelion, Endive, Escarole, Fava Bean (English Broadbean), Florence Fennel, Garlic, Horse-radish, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard, Onion, Pak Choi, Parsley, Parsnips, Pea (English, Snow, Snap), Radicchio, Radish, Rhubarb, Rutabaga, Salsify, Scallions (Bunching), Shallot, Spinach, Swiss Chard, Turnip, Watercress.

Warm Season Vegetables: Bean (Lima, Snap), Chayote, Corn, Cowpea (Southern Pea), Cucumber, Eggplant, Muskmelon, Okra, Pepper (Bell, Hot), Pumpkin, Soybean (Edible), Squash, Sweet Potato, Tomato, Watermelon.

Compost pit Composting is beneficial to homeowners for several reasons. It allows for the recycling of kitchen scraps and the creation of a natural fertilizer for garden plants and vegetables. Compost pits offer a simple and free alternative to purchasing or building a compost bin, as they are made right in the ground within your backyard.

Procedure: Locate a spot in your yard that receives a lot of direct sunlight to help keep your compost pit above 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not place the compost pit too close to your house, as it may emit an unpleasant smell as it decomposes.

Dig a hole in the ground with a garden shovel that is 2 to 3 feet deep by 3 feet wide.

Line the hole with masonry lining or pack in the sides and bottom of the hole as well as you can, or you risk the sides crumbling down into your pit.

Layer the ingredients in the compost pile. Start with organic materials, such as kitchen scraps, shredded newspaper, coffee grounds, egg shells, grass clippings or fallen leaves. Then

Page 42 of 54 STUDY MATERIAL FOR B.SC MICROBIOLOGY GARDENING AND GARDEN MANAGEMENT SEMESTER -III, ACADEMIC YEAR 2020-21 add a layer of fertilizer, such as horse, cow or chicken manure. Add a layer of soil and repeat the layers in order. Stop when your compost reaches 1 foot above the compost pit. Water the compost pit until the ingredients are soaked. According to Iowa State University, compost needs moisture content between 40 and 60 percent to multiply the beneficial microbes that are within the pile.

Turn the ingredients in the compost pit once per week with a shovel to provide proper aeration. Add water at this time to keep the pile moist.

Use the compost once it becomes brown and crumbly and has an earthy smell to it.

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UNIT - V INDOOR GARDENING Indoor gardening is nothing more than the act of growing plants indoors. This might be at a residential home, within a business location like an office building or restaurant, or any other enclosed area. There are multiple types of indoor gardening, including container gardening, hydroponic gardening, controlled environment agriculture, vertical farms, and more.

Importance of indoor gardening i. Indoor plants need not necessarily be confined to the living room alone. Bed room, kitchen, staircases, patios and other locations can be decorated with suitable plants. ii. House plants are not restricted to residential houses only. There is a tremendous scope in the use of these plants in beautifying offices, hotels, hospitals and almost all public buildings. iii. In the modern concept and practice of indoor gardening, the scope of growing plants has been extended to many areas in and around the house including balcony, verandah, terraces, patios. iv. Almost all types of plants are being used as indoor plants depending on the environment, particularly light and temperature. v. Indoor gardening is never out of seasons. vi. The pleasure and thrill of growing indoor plants are immense. vii. Indoor gardening brings an intimate and natural association of the man and the plants and enlivens the indoor environment. viii. It is a matter of joy to many especially those living in cities where they don’t have enough space for garden and gardening. For them a well maintained single ornamental plant itself makes a garden. ix. Indoor plants are now commercially used inside the homes, offices, shops, banks, hotels, restaurants, clubs, hospitals, universities, colleges and schools. x. Indoor plants form an integral part of decoration in a home or any building. xi. They add charm to the architectural beauty of the house and compliment the

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interior setting.

Principles and Maintenance Moisture: The moisture of the plant is related to hydration of the soil which is achieved by simply watering the plant. Here, you must take care not to commit the mistake of overwatering or under watering. Use the finger dip method to check moisture before watering. Watering a plant by the calendar is not recommended. The watering requirement varies from plant to plant like for instance, succulents or xerophytes require very less frequent watering like once in a week.

Light: This is another major factor required for plant photosynthesis. This can be achieved by two methods:

Natural Sunlight like placing your plants in your balcony or near a window or under indirect bright light in a bright spot in your home.

Grow Lights This is obviously an artificial source of light for plant photosynthesis. These plant grow lights are actually substitutes for sunlight and present day technology provides great quality LED grow lights emitting the electromagnetic spectrum appropriate for photosynthesis. You can grow any plant including vegetables and even flowering and fruiting plants under led grow lights. We will discuss this in another detailed episode on grow lights – like choosing the right intensity, right bulb, rightcolor and so on.

Soil: For house plants to thrive successfully indoors, special care needs to be taken of the kind of soil they are planted in. the soil used for houseplants is different from the natural soil that plants usually thrive in outdoors. We will discuss in detail about the indoor plant potting mix recipes in our next episode.

Fertilizers: Natural outdoor grown plants receive nutrients from the ground soil. However, potted plants have to be feeded regularly to meet the plant requirements and sustain growth and yield. This includes the Major NPK elements – Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potasssium as well as trace elements required for proper plant performance. Nitrogen provides the plant with its green and leafy growth, Phosphorus is essential for flowering or fruiting plants. And, potassium is essential for strong roots and increased nutrient uptake. We always prefer organic fertilizers like vermicompost, decomposed cow dung, bone meal, neem cake powder and stuff like that for our indoor as well as outdoor gardening. We always say “No to Chemicals”.

Containers: Choosing the right container for indoor gardening is not so much important except using the right size for a particular plant. You can use plastic, cement, ceramic or even wooden containers for indoor planting. Plastic is commonly used as its relatively cheaper and light weight. Make sure you have drainage holes and cover the holes with a mesh at the bottom and also use a plate under the container.

Other factors:

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Other important factors like Humidity, Temperature, air circulation, Plant support are also important factors to take care in indoor gardening. Variations in these factors can be responsible for leaf drying, leaf drop, fungus and many other problems.

Care and Maintenance Some people bring plants home and get them into the ground but failtofollow through with any maintenance.

Although plants vary on the amount of care they require, most of the plant requires a particular amount of water weekly, fertilizer and many need pruning in order to maintain their appearance & health.

The knockout rose is a good example of a plant that does not require extensive pruning for its health but does for its shape. However, it is imperative that pruning is done correctly so as not to injure the plant.

Hanging Basket A hanging basket is a suspended container used for growing decorative plants. Typically they are hung from buildings, where garden space is at a premium, and from street furniture for environmental enhancement.

To grow plants in hanging baskets take the following steps. Container. Use any type of container that will hold at least 2 quarts of growing media by volume. Containers with less volume tend to dry out rapidly.

Containers can be metal framed and lined with moss. Use bleach bottles that are available commercially, gallon-sized milk containers, or redwood containers.

Be sure to provide drainage holes in the container. Use a nail to drive holes that are three-eighths of an inch in diameter, spaced 3 inches apart near the bottom of the container.

Tie a cord or hemp bag around the container to make it into a hanging basket. Hanging baskets are also available with self-adhering saucers.

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Thus, one can grow and water plants anywhere while preventing water drippings on furnishings.

Growing media. Bagged growing media is available in most variety and garden stores. These usually contain fertilizers in slow-release form.

To make your own general-purpose mix use the following formula: To 2 parts of sandy loam soil add 1 part coarse sphagnum peat moss and 1 part coarse aggregate (vermiculite, perlite, or washed cinders). To each bushel of mix add 4 ounces of pulverized dolomitic Umestone, 4 ounces of 20 percent superphosphate, and 2 ounces of 5-10-5 fertilizer.

Mix thoroughly and add just enough water to crumble the media in large masses; do not add so much water the media becomes soggy.

Drainage. Line the bottom 2 inches of the container with coarse aggregate. Shield the drainage holes with coffee filters to hold the growing media in place until the new root system meshes into a solid mass. Pack the aggregate loosely to leave air pockets that will permit easy drainage of water out of the container. Cover the top of the aggregate with a half-inch layer of aggregate that has been finely crushed; this will prevent the growing media from plugging up the drainage holes.

Fertilizer. Fill container to within 1 inch of the top with water-moistened growing media. Mix in 1 tablespoon of a coated, slow-release 14-14- 14 fertilizer per 6-inch container.

The volume of a 6-inch container is equal to 2 quarts of mix. This concentration of fertilizer should last for about 3 months; plan to add a second tablespoon on the surface about 2-1/ 2 months after planting. Continue to fertilize at regular intervals throughout the life of the plant.

Planting. Hold the potted plant on its side with one hand protecting the plant. Tap the plant gently until the soil ball and plant falls out. Remove the network of roots on bottom of soil ball. Dig a hole in which the soil ball fits perfectly. The growing media of the soil ball and of the new container should be on the same level. Firm the soil ball and growing media to insure a good flow of water and the knitting of the root system.

Location Plants, like petunias, that require at least 6 hours daily of direct sunlight should be placed in areas where they will be shaded for part of the day.

They can be placed near a porch, in a window, or close to the entrance of your home. (Petunias grown in too much shade develop long, poorly-branched shoots with few if any flowers; petunias are adapted to bright, sunny situations where they develop stout, highlybranched shoots with abundant flowering and fruiting.)

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Watering When you water the plant, continue to add water until all areas of the growing media are thoroughly moistened and excess water begins to drip from the drainage holes.

This volume of water will be adequate if sufficient air space above the growing media and the top of the container has been provided. Note how much water has been added and apply the same volume next time.

Acclimatization. To promote abundant flowering and to prolong the flowering time, the plant must be acclimatized or "trained to survive" in its location.

This is accomplished by watering frequency and controlled fertilizer levels.

Grooming To preserve the appearance of the plant pick off yellowing or damaged leaves and flowers. As the plant develops, remove some branches to prevent crowding and to promote the development of new flowering shoots.

Terrariums A Terrarium is an arrangement of plants together in one container, often with other things like rocks, stones or miniature figures and items.

Sometimes the goal of a terrarium is justto create a pleasing arrangement of plants and other times the goal is to create a miniatureworld.

Terrarium planting is a specialized part of home gardening, but an interesting one. Agreat many woodland plants which prosper in their natural environments fail to grow at all in the house due to the lack of moisture in the air.

Terrariums provide this humid atmosphere andallow you to bring the forest plants home. The theory behind the terrarium is that in a closedcontainer the moisture which the plants take up through their roots and transpire through theirleaves is condensed and eventually returns to the soil again, keeping the plants watered and atthe same time keepingthe air within the container at a point below saturation.

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MaterialsRequired Fine gravel or coarse sand, charcoal chips,synthetic fabric (nylon) or screen to act as a soil separatorand potting mix appropriate to theplants used.

Containers to use Any glass container can serve as a terrarium, providedthat it is transparent. You can recycle a large glass jar, a fish bowl or an old aquarium.

Alternatively, there are some very attractive containers made of wood and glass or plasticavailable on the market.

Terrariums do not require drain holes so, unlike other plantingcontainers, holes are not necessary at the bottom of the container.

Soil mixes/ additives

Use clean, sterilized peat moss based soilless mix with vermiculite or perlite to enablethe soil to hold moisture and oxygen.

There should be an initial layer of gravel for drainage (onepart gravel to two parts soilless mix). Add charcoal to absorb odour (one tablespoon per cup ofdrainage).

Use sand in a desert terrarium. Sand should be bagged, washed and free of salts. Leaf mold can be used for woodland soilmixes but should be sterilized. Limestone can be used, especially for desert terrariums.

Watering, ventilation and sun When your plants are all in position, the soil should be well watered. If you can do this in the kitchen sink or in the bathtub where you can give it a thorough wetting and then allow the excess to drain out, so much the better.

Lighting i. It is important that the plants receive bright, indirect or dappled light. ii. While direct sun willusually cook or sunburn the plants, too much shade will cause stringy growth and poorcolouration.

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iii. Different plants have different needs, but a good starting place is to use fourfluorescent tubes for a tank that is 12-14 inches wide. Location i. Location of the terrarium will play a part, too. If it will be in a sunny place, succulentsmay work best. ii. A succulent is a water retaining plant that does well in arid conditions (e.g., jade plant, Christmas cactus, sedum). iii. If the terrarium will have a lot of shade and moisture, in abathroom for instance, then ferns and mosses will most likely be a good choice. Maintenance Any dead leaves or rotting plants in your plant terrarium should be removed promptly with tweezers before the problem spreads to other plants. If a fungus seems to be spreadingfrom a plant through the growing medium, remove a portion of the medium in the infected areaand replace it. Apply a general fungicide to reduce spread of the disease. General maintenance required like Moisture,balance,Plant growth, Temperature, Light

Advantages of using terrariums i. Ideal environment for plants that require constant moist soil and or atmosphere. ii. Plants grow slowly and evenly. iii. An interesting alternative to using pots when space is limited. iv. Easily moveable. v. Good for miniature specialty gardens. vi. Safe around children and pets. vii. Fun to make

Bottle garden A bottle garden refers to a glass or plastic container that is used to grow plants. Not unlike terrariums, bottle gardens have a fairly narrow opening, which means the plants are not exposed to the outside environment. According to botanists, the oldest bottle garden in the world was first created in 1960. The key is to combine small plants that enjoy similar growing conditions – combining plants that like shady, damp conditions, or drought-tolerant succulents with cacti. You can plant in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants that enjoy drier conditions.

Materials: Vintage glass bottle, Horticultural grit, Peat free houseplant compost, Moss, (from the lawn), Plants

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Procedure: Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that like low light and humidity.

Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.

Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

Plants: Maidenhair fern (Adiantumraddianum), Golden polypody (Phlebodiumaureum), Hares foot fern (Humatatyermannii), Mind-your-own-business (Soleiroliasoleirolii), Centella (Centellaasiatica)

Bonsai Bonsai is an art of growing and training of a plant to a miniature form having a natural look of old age.

Origin: It was originated from china, but it was called as the Japanese art. It involves techniques of extreme dwarfing. The optimum size of bonsai may be only 30 to 60 cm in height, but miniature sizes of below 25 cm have also been preferred.Bonsai of minimum 10 years old are period, but of 100 and even 200 years of age are available and are highly valued as ‘venerable’ specimens. Steps: i. Bonsai requires special types of containers. They should be usually shallow with 5 to 7.5 cm deep (except for cascade type of bonsai for which deep pots can be used).

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ii. Round, hexagonal or square shaped containers with 25 to 30 cm diameters are preferred. Containers with specific colours like mosaic, sky blue, terra cotta, grey or jungle green are well suited for bonsai culture. iii. Plants adaptable for extreme dwarfing like juniper. pine, elm, maple, cypress are suitable materials for bonsai culture. iv. But in tropical places like India, the tree species like Manilkhara, Sapota, Bassia, Tamarind and Ficus spp. and shrubs like West Indian cherry are well suited. v. Trunk and branches may be bent, forced and tied by coiling them with heavy wire. vi. This wire is removed after several months when training to shape has been accomplished.

Styles: The bonsai plants may be trained to different shapes like twisted trunk, upright, S- shaped, semi-cascade, cascade, slanting or any other formal shape. i. Planting of both tips and roots is usually done at planting time and periodically pinching the tip and removing the excess side shoots are essential to maintain the general outline of design. ii. Annually, the plants are either repotted or lifted from the pot, root pruned and reset. iii. The bonsai plant is fed sparingly of week fertilizer solution containing major and minor nutrients. Sometimes extracts of oil cakes may be also added. Similarly, the plant is given only minimum requirements of moisture. iv. It is advisable to water twice a day to plants kept in shallow containers and once a day to plants kept in deeper pots. v. Selection of hardened woody plants that have been subjected to adverse conditions is a good starting point. vi. Such kind of planting materials may be collected from rock crevices of from the walls of any buildings. vii. Old seedlings kept in containers form any nursery or cutting, grafted plants or layers may be also utilized in bonsai culture.

Agro techniques for Bonsai  Propagation  Season  Potting and reputing  After care  Container  Planting media

Propagation Through seeds, cuttings, layering or grafting Seeds: Pines and Junifers Cuttings:Ficus, Pomegranate, Mulberry and Bougainvilleas Layers: Jasmine, Ixora, Bougainvilleas and Pomegranate Grafts: Mango, Sapota, Citrus

Season 1. July – August

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2. February – March Best time is before opening of the buds

Potting and repotting  1/3 of the roots can be trimmed  Long tap roots are to trimmed  Excessive branches are to thinned out  Balanced nutrition and adequate watering is must  Potting is not advisable during winter or hot months  Repotting is done after 2-3 years After care Pinching - Once or twice Pruning - For its shape Training - Desirable shape It is achieved through copper wire or polythene tape. It is to be removed once the shape is attained.

Containers  Mostly terracotta or ceramic  Small in size  Square/round/rectangle/oval in shape  Preferred is oval / rectangle  In round / square the plant is to be in the centre.  In others placed in the sides of the containers.

Planting Media Media consists of Loam soil 2 parts Leaf mould 1 parts Coarse sand little Media can be covered with moss and one or two pebbles can be placed to give a natural look.

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