Issue 2

Expeditions & Courses 2012 CLIMB/ TREK/SKI

This Issue Mont Blanc – 3 routes to the summit Expedition report – Makalu 8,463m Prize draw – win Scarpa boots! Tech & Spec – Ski selection

Winter Mountaineering course, Scotland, 2011. Alex Ekins. www.jagged-globe.co.uk in brief / Around the globe in 2012

Welcome to our winter newsletter. We’ve included a selection of reports, technical advice and updates about Jagged Globe Climb, Trek and Ski expeditions and courses. 2011 saw us involved in some special projects, like the 737 Challenge and an expedition to Makalu, the world’s 5th highest mountain. In 2012 we will continue to Fles e ce and broaden our range of skiing and trekking trips, as Waterproof well as remaining focussed on our core jackets to Africa Our latest order of 200 fleeces and 200 mountaineering. We are also organising more tailor- waterproof jackets has just arrived. made trips, for those who prefer to travel with These will be sent out to Moshi, to be distributed amongst porters working friends in smaller groups and want to go ‘self-led’. on Kilimanjaro. Look out for porters wearing our new gear on Africa’s highest mountain from January. Please call 0845 345 8848 if you would like to discuss any of our Climb, Trek or Ski adventures, or visit jagged-globe.co.uk for more info and booking.

CLIMB / with us TKRE / with us SKI / with us P WRIZE DRA /

Scotland Hm i alayas Europe Wa in a p ir of Where: Glencoe Where: Nepal Where: Austria and Greece Scarpa boots! When: January to March When: May and October/November When: February Book a Jagged Globe, CLIMB, TREK or SKI trip before 29 February 2012 and 92% of Scottish WinterC ourses Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes. We are offering an additional Ski we will automatically enter you into a participants gave our Instructors Silvretta departure on Sunday 26 prize draw to win one of the following: top marks! This is the best Everest trek out there. February to Sunday 4 March 2012. It includes crossings of the Renjo La, – Book CLIMB (Win Scarpa Of the 63 feedback forms we received Cho La and Kongma La, with ascents This Introductory level tour is superb Phantom 6000) from 2011 Scottish Winter Courses of Gokyo Ri, Kala Pattar and Chukkung value at £865 joining in Galtür, participants, when asked “Please grade Ri. This packed itinerary supersedes Austria. Fly to Innsbruck from where – Book TREK (Win Scarpa SL) the quality of the instruction overall”, and is a day longer than our High the excellent public transport system – Book SKI (Win Scarpa 58 people graded the instruction ‘5’ Passes to Everest trek. At the time will get you to Galtür. We stay in top Maestrale/Gea) (Excellent), 4 people graded it ‘4’ (Good) of print there are just a few places quality mountain huts and will target There are three pairs of boots up for and 1 person graded it ‘3’ (Average). remaining on our May departure. anything up to six 3,000m peaks. grabs, with a winner drawn from each Join our Instructor team in Scotland The new Macedonia Ski Discovery category. So if you book a SKI course this winter! Dates: Thu 3 May – Sun 27 May ’12, tour (Sat 11 – Sun 19 Feb ‘12, £1,575 and a CLIMB course, you will be Thu 11 Oct – Sun 4 Nov ‘12 from Skopje) is suitable for adventurous “The course personnel were among the entered into two prize draws. ski mountaineers. The team will most inspiring group of individuals I’ve Price: £2,495 from London convene in Athens. Please visit The winner will be announced in the ever met. Exceptionally down to earth www.jagged-globe.co.uk for April issue of our E-mail Newsletter, and modest about their considerable more details and booking. ‘Jagged Globe News’. You can register achievements. We would have followed for Jagged Globe News at them all up Everest if they had asked, they instilled that much confidence. jagged-globe.co.uk/news/ The more technical aspects of the course email.html were conveyed and managed in an engaging and easy to follow manner, never once did I feel intimidated by learning new skills. Assertive when they needed to be, we also had a good laugh.”

SC, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011

For dates and prices see page 16.

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02 PEOPLE / Iain Peter

Iain Peter just below the summit of Everest in spring 2007 Iain has been an IFMGA Guide for 30 years and was the CEO at Plas Y Brenin for 10 years. He’s also a co-author of the classic “The Handbook of Climbing”. In 2012 Iain is leading our Alpamayo (9 June – 1 July, £3,595 from London), Huascaran (16 Jun – 11 Jul, £3,525 from London) and Ama Dablam (3 Nov – 2 Dec, £4,495 from London) expeditions.

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PEOPLE / Pasang Sherpa

27-year old Pasang is one of only a few IFMGA-qualified Sherpas, who also instructs for the Nepal Mountain Guiding Federation (NMGF). He has worked for Jagged Globe on 8,000m peaks since 2003 and has made eleven 8,000m ascents with us, including eight Everest summits. More recently, he has led Jagged Globe teams on trekking peaks in the Khumbu. “Pasang is a born trip leader” (RH, Everest Base Camp and Island Peak, October 2011).

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01 Mont Blanc. Jonathan Griffith. 02 Nubra. Steve Findlay. 03 Manaslu Circuit. Klaudia Klausz. 04 Evening turns on Mt Triad, West Coast Glaciers, NZ. Jim Blyth. 04 LOCATIONS / Around the globe in 2012 Scotland Calling

We’re looking forward O ur base We’re incredibly lucky to be based to three months of at the Ballachulish Hotel. It’s in a winter walking, great location, with quick access to Glencoe, Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and mountaineering and the Mamores. There’s a fantastic climbing as our Scottish atmosphere in the hotel, with teams arriving back off the hill each evening Winter Courses for tea and biscuits to regale each commence on 15 other with their stories. In February 2012 we will have 30+ people in the January. We’re hotel during some of the busier weeks, passionate about the so expect to meet some interesting 01 people and dip into a diverse range Scottish mountains and of experiences. A word from our Course Director Last year’s feedback what they can offer us. Ed Chard is in charge of our staff in We had some superb feedback from Which course? Scotland and the overall delivery of winter 2011. In particular, our Instructors really shone: Scotland is the perfect It’s simple really. If you’re a keen our programme: winter playground for summer hill walker and want to venture “All the staff are getting ready for a new “The quality of instruction made the into the mountains in winter, then our learning new skills, season in Scotland. Most have had a busy course for me. All three Instructors were Introductory Winter Mountaineering summer season rock climbing and superb. They were also a model in how preparing for an course is the best place to start. mountaineering but are sharpening axes to work as a team under clear leadership. For aspiring climbers who want to get expedition or simply in readiness for some winter action as we I was probably the one who struggled onto graded routes which need to be speak. Last year we had a total mix of most with the course and I was given enjoying the action! We pitched, the intermediate level Winter weather, some stunning days and some tremendous help in a very unpatronising course is the way to go. go out in all weathers, Mountaineering pretty ugly ones as well. We met some top way. When I was struggling with a Snow and Ice Climbing is just that. Two folk who were really up for the challenge descent I was helped by Alex and didn’t which means you get to tools, on routes graded Scottish III – V. that Scottish winter mountaineering feel I was holding up the whole group, We also offer an IntroductoryLong experience everything brings. Our aim is to push people – gently, which would have increased pressure Weekend for hill walkers. sometimes perhaps a little bit further on me. The team got it just right in giving from raging blizzards than they might imagine. I think that our me enough challenge but not to the Instructors are amongst the best in the point where I felt unhappy. Their to blue sky days. All Private Guiding business. People always come away really encouragement was superb. I learnt Increasingly, we are asked if we can great preparation for feeling like they’ve progressed, pushed a tremendous amount and loved the arrange private guiding. This is and most importantly, had a good time. way the instructors combined sharing a Himalayan adventure normally at a 1:2 or 1:1 ratio, depending We have a superb team ethos amongst technical skills with a sense of love on what you want to achieve. It might or for future winter our Instructors and I like to think that this and respect for the mountains. I also be a day focussing on advanced rope shows in the way they interact with our appreciated the time given by Sam, adventures, under techniques, or crevasse rescue, course participants.” Alex and Andy Chapman to helping following on from your course, or you your own leadership. my husband and I make decisions could have a specific route in mind. about a planned October expedition.” Beware though, as you need to be open-minded about what you might CH, Introductory Winter climb, as ultimately, the conditions Mountaineering 2011 will dictate which routes are ‘in’. Contact us now to arrange private guiding, as at the time of publication, availability is limited. We will quote a price based on the Instructor, all their fees and full-board accommodation at the Ballachulish Hotel.

01 Ledge Route. Alex Ekins. 02 Moving on steeper ground, Ben Nevis. Alex Ekins. 02

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In 2011, we organised expeditions to three of the 8,000ers world’s 14 peaks above 8,000m – Makalu (5th highest), Cho Oyu 3 out of 3 in 2011! (6th highest) and Everest.

Success 115% success rate — It’s not Cho Oyu until Lhotse 2012 and on Makalu 23 out of 20 summit! the fat lady sings! Dhaulagiri 2013

Summit height: 2011 was one of our best ever Summit height: Dhaulagiri – ‘The White Mountain’. ▲ 8,481 metres (27,825 ft) Everest years. ▲ 8,201 m (26,906 ft) We will attempt the North East Ridge, the line of the first ascent. Whilst we send teams to Cho Oyu 10 climbers, plus 8 Sherpas and 2 Finally, in the post-monsoon season, we and Everest every year, Makalu is not leaders made up the Jagged Globe sent a team of eight climbers to Cho Oyu, We are always looking for the ‘next commonly attempted by a ‘professionally Everest expedition, which began at the led by Operations Manager, Matt Parkes. thing’, so building on the success of our organised’ team and still sees relatively end of March. Less than two months Makalu expedition, we are organising few attempts. later they had all stood on the summit, The team experienced very unsettled expeditions to Lhotse this coming some of them twice! Team members weather and frequent snowfall spring, and in 2013, we will attempt We chose to climb in the spring season Richard Parks and Steve Williams had throughout their time in base camp. Dhaulagiri via the North East Ridge. and sent a team of six, led by Robert arrived in base camp later than the rest After one particularly large dump of Adele Pennington is leading the Lhotse Anderson. All bar one of the six of the of the team, as they were skiing the snow, it looked like they would be expedition and Robert Anderson will climbers had been above 8,000m final degree to the Geographic North coming home empty handed and we lead the Dhaulagiri team. If you are before and two had previously Pole, as part of the ‘737 Challenge’, until half-expected to next hear from them interested in joining either of these attempted Makalu. On 17 May, Robert, early April. This meant that the summit after an early arrival back in expeditions, please get in touch. Adele Pennington and James Nevile had to be attempted in two waves, both Kathmandu. It was a similar story to sneaked up to the summit in a fleeting of which saw success for all involved Makalu, where instinct on the leader’s Lhotse dates: 3 Apr – 1 Jun ’12 weather window, together with four and meant that three of our amazing part, rather than a reliance on weather Price: £16,695 from London of our Sherpas. An account of their Sherpas summited on both the 16 and forecasting, put the team in a good ascent, written by Robert, can be read 25 May. position at just the right time. Almost on page 6. to their surprise, four members, plus Everest dates: Sat 24 Mar – Sun 3 Jun Matt and four Sherpas, climbed from ’12, Sat 30 Mar – Sun 2 Jun ’13. Camp 2 to the summit on 1 October in absolutely perfect conditions. Price: US$54,000 from Kathmandu 03 Thundu Sherpa and Cian O’Brolchain on the summit Cho Oyo dates: 1 Sep – 14 Oct ‘12 of Cho Oyu, 1 October 2011. Matt Parkes. Price: £11,695 from London

05 LOCATIONS / Around the globe in 2011

Summit height: ▲ 8,481 metres (27,825 ft) MAKALU Extract from Robert Anderson’s expedition report

We rounded the Stupa at Base Camp, We curved through the snow and rocks. Above, the route loomed, “Bunter and I had been burning juniper clearing our lungs, climbed up into the orange granite looked frightening, huge, intimidating. prayer flags framing the peak, morning cliffs. Lunch came and went. The time Snow, then seracs, crossing over into on Everest the year breezes and Sherpa chants in our ears, it would have taken me to go from Camp more snow rising steeply up. Then an before. There we were fresh coffee on our breath. Our muscles II to Camp III on Everest came and went. indistinct couloir leading off left and were as oxygenated and efficient as if Makalu just doesn’t have well-placed up to a ridge that just went on and on standing on the tallest we had been setting off for a marathon camps. Base Camp to Camp II, long, steeply into the clouds. The summit, peak in the world and at sea level. Acclimatising and sleeping hard, hits you the next day. Then Camp it had to be up there somewhere. high had all been preparation for this. II to Camp III, steep snow, ice, rock cliffs, Jim and James curled up in the tent a bit like Ed Hillary, Serious, dangerous, but mentally just finally a snow slope, early lunch, then next door, Adele and I snuggled into who would visit Makalu ‘prep’. Now there was nothing between up the snow ridge, then into a bigger our own rapidly shrinking tent, as the us and the top, only fears, known and cliff band. Climbing up through 7,000 sides picked up the blowing snow and twice, we looked out unknown, talked and un-talked about metres and into steep terraces. Right, caved in upon us. and saw Makalu and (always the scary ones). But we were hmm, Camp should be there, left, going, high, or as high as we could. hmmm, should be there, right, almost A long afternoon, trying to eat, trying thought “that is really Bunter was in Base Camp, he was there, with the cliff extending up into to sleep, trying to lie still, giving up on all that. Long underwear, socks, fleeces, the most beautiful manning the camp, he was being the sky and an hour later you get to the encouraging and he was monitoring Makalu La and step into Tibet. At least down, masks, balaclavas. Then peak – we really should the weather. The rest of us were off. it is another country, Tibet, without any harnesses, hoods, crampons, oxygen masks. We were so layered up that go climb that”. passport control. Then, oh yes, not quite Up to Camp II was hard, it was long, it there, another 20 minutes over to moving seemed improbable. 9:30pm. was 900 vertical meters after all, and Camp III, in a blizzard, a mist, a wind Let’s go climbing. more importantly, you were then tired that kicks you along and into the out and had to sleep higher than it is flapping tents. Sleep, but too high, good to sleep. Then get up earlier than just exhaustion and some soup. The The summit is fun. I think 4:30am. I don’t like to Sherpas are with us, we like that, we The moon was a day off full and cast remember, it still hurts me. But this feel at home with them. “The higher shadows over the snow, dancing was Makalu; it was four days of going I go the better I feel” I tell my team. And climbers climbing through up every day, of no slips, no slides, no for some reason I do. Higher, better, moonbeams. We were so swaddled being lazy. I’d said at Base Camp “the faster, floating up with the clouds. up that we needed the oxygen just to mountain won’t adapt to us, we must move. There were no ropes; just snow, adapt to it.” So we did, pain be gone. We are walking towards Camp IV the a slope and air fogging our vision until We arrived at Camp II with the sun next day. “This is the most amazing we entered the seracs and a thin line dipping into Nepal. Mark was coughing, thing I have seen” says James. He showed us the way through. Crevasse his ribs were in pain, he had climbed all mirrors our feelings, escaping the lower hopping in the dark, an ice cliff or two day, but turned for the descent. Staying mountain, climbing into the cloud and to scale to keep us awake, then breaking high and feeling bad is no place to be. snow the previous day, waking to a out onto another interminable snow Our Sirdar Passang turned and dawn of orange, then blue, where the slope cut by crevasses and we roped wandered down into the shadowed mountain and life below had faded. up in groups of three. We’d chopped afternoon with him. High altitude is not We were in Tibet; climbing through the rope up into bits, so it was short and where you hesitate. You go up, if you feel Shangri-La. Everest was over our surprisingly useful when James stuck bad, you go down, immediately. It is not shoulder, looking back it rose and a leg in a crevasse. The Sherpas laughed easy, it is not fun. But it is necessary. hovered just behind us. Lhotse then and we carried on. We’d grown fond of curving around into Everest, all black the rope, it was aquamarine, looping Out of Camp II we had on down suits; rock and cloud and snow falling off over the white snow it glowed in the Makalu is a cold mountain, very cold. the highest mountain in the world. dark when our headlamps touched it. If the down in our suits could have, it When we were little we all wanted to Aquamarine is a friendly colour. would have flown right out of them. grow up and be mountain climbers and We were heading up into the cliffs and climb the highest mountains in the We turned left, an indistinct bit of steep I stopped to talk to Ron. The coughs and world. It was a good place to be. Camp IV snow led up into even steeper rocks. respiratory challenges we’d all faced was a rocky promontory piled high with We paused to get a fixed rope in and the had never left him. “I’m going down” boulders, each rock beautiful, carved by sunrise started, so indistinct at first to said Ron. With Ron’s experience, he wind; orange, pink, white, black. We be a lie. We were well around on the knew what to do, but it was still so hard, pitched the tent together as it billowed North West side of the mountain so so very hard, to see someone so fit and and flapped and tried to run away from there would be light, but sun would be strong have to turn around with only a us, tying it to those oh so helpful big a long time coming. The cold seemed to short-term ailment.

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be ignoring our down suits and came James, Adele and I climbed on. We changed our oxygen to the last High on the ridge the straight through onto our skin and from Somewhere around here Adele had bottle. Keep moving, keep climbing – there straight through inside of us. turned around a year ago. Now she felt we kept going up until we could go no mood changed, the The far horizon of Tibet went from fine. When you have been up high a lot further. The route led across soft snow wind rose, snow, or was black to a thin line of light, a shimmer. you have to know how people feel, from with ice underneath, then out to the Then Everest began to catch the light, their movements, from where they put cliff edge, crampon points hitting rock it just parts of clouds soaking in the sunrise, bit-by-bit, ever their feet and their hands, and how they under snow and placed again ever so assaulted us, roaring so slowly. Soon it seemed to steam balance. Adele was fine. James who gently. Then we turned left and the slightly to life, the sun pushing it into hadn’t been anywhere near this high pyramid was just a point on a ridge and in and out of Tibet. the morning and it joined this higher before was fine, moving confidently. the real summit was up, up and away, world we were living in. Unlike Adele and I, he didn’t know how knife-edged across a slope of unstable hard altitude really gets, so he just kept snow, with our front points sticking in The rope led up into the French Couloir, climbing, thinking at some point it and our heels hanging out in the wind. which I’d always imagined as a distinct might be fun. There was that final little steep bit every steep couloir. It was steep enough to be peak deserves, that last bit of steep fun, but it soon turned into rocks as we We moved off the ridge and into a scrambling, then we stepped up on wove through and then finally climbed shallow couloir that led back right and high, a perfect pointed crown with pure out onto the ridge above. Old fixed ropes up to a snowy ridge walking along the white granite rising up below us and led in spider fashion over the cliffs, but crest of the world. Clouds blew over us, pure white ice in a perfect cone forming were frayed to the point of shoestrings the wind roared, but gently and we the top. The wind roared in a constant and discontinuous. We sheathed our climbed out above the clouds and into blast and held us all up there. jumars and simply climbed. Solid rock, the sun. There were no ropes here snow, ice underneath, how nice to be either, just crampons, ice axes and Adele and James came up; the Sherpas really climbing as we passed through plenty of breathing. Intuition worked gathered round, Dawa, Lhakpa, Nema 8,000 metres. its magic to climb a bit higher. Ahead and Furnuru. Prayer flags fluttered and of us the summit pyramid reared. I’d smiles expanded beyond the sides of High on the ridge the mood changed, seen pictures of it, but they didn’t show our oxygen masks. It was 11am, 14 the wind rose, snow, or was it just parts the 4,000 metre drop back down to the hours after leaving Camp IV; we were of clouds assaulted us, roaring in and valley, just the steep and winding route on top of Makalu. out of Tibet. up and around the pinnacle. We were part way up, but below was what 01 Dawa Sherpa on the Jim paused, “maybe I should go down?” summit ridge of Makalu. created the effect, the earth falling Up high it is all about listening to Robert Anderson. away and disappearing into cloud yourself and interpreting it correctly. 02 Robert Anderson at the and mist so far below, it was no longer summit. Dawa Sherpa. The top was perhaps just visible, but I a part of us. 03 Makalu. Matt Parkes. thought it could be four hours. “Not for me” and Jim set off down with Lhakpa.

07 tpri reports / 2011

Trip Reports

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Nubra First Ascents – R upshu and Th arpu Chuli – Island P aTAgonia – MORE first ascents Lungser Kangri — Peak, but without Fitzroy and Paine planned for 2012! improved itinerary the crowds

We organised two expeditions to our This was another new trip for us That’s how expedition leader, Terry Moore Our new trip to Patagonia is a hit, ‘secret’ valley in the Nubra Region this in summer 2011 on which we sent described the headwall and ridge on with trekkers venturing to Argentina past summer. two teams. Tharpu Chuli (also known as ‘Tent Peak’), and Chile during November, December a 5,663m peak which we climbed for the and January. Steve Findlay led one of our teams in Both groups really enjoyed the trek first time last autumn. 2011 and was really impressed with and the whole experience of visiting This is a ‘best of’ style 16-day trip, the potential for new routes in this area. such a remote and undeveloped part The summit ridge is a little longer and which visits Cerro Torre, Torres del In fact, following on from the success of Ladakh. For next year we’ve tweaked therefore more strenuous than Island Paine, the Perito Merino Glacier and of his group on a previously unclimbed the approach trek to give more Peak, but the character of the mountain Glacier Grey. There’s some rough 5,900m peak, which they named Singh flexibility. As river crossings are an is very similar. It’s in a superb location, walking and you need to kit yourself Kangri, Steve intends to return next integral part of trekking in this area right opposite Machhupuchare in the out for all weathers, but we stay in summer. He has already earmarked and it’s best to get them out of the way Annapurna Sanctuary. Terry’s team comfortable fixed campsites and use two more peaks to attempt. Having before lunch, we want to allow more had excellent weather – the photos hotels when in the towns. We’re also improved the acclimatisation profile time to complete this section of the of dawn breaking over the Himalayas offering a 2-day extension to this trip, and added two days to the itinerary trip, depending on the river levels. on their summit day are truly mouth- for those who want to visit Ushuaia to allow more climbing time, we are On Lungser Kangri itself, the first team watering! For 2012, we’ve extended and Tierra del Fuego. Look out for dates confident that more first ascents will were unlucky to have a dump of snow, the trip by a day, though it still fits for the 2012/13 season on our website, follow in 2012. If you would like to join so they couldn’t attempt the summit. within 3 weeks. We have a spare jagged-globe.co.uk, very soon. Steve and have previous altitude and Our second team, a private group from summit day and a slightly more climbing experience to Alpine PD. Japan, were successful in topping out, relaxed journey out of the mountains. Scottish II, we recommend that you reporting stunning views from 6,662m. For Scottish grade II climbers, this is book now, as places are limited. This really is a superb but demanding a fabulous expedition. trek, which is suitable for fit walkers, Dates: Thu 16 Aug – Sun 9 Sep ‘12 who have trekked at altitude before. You Dates: Sun 22 Apr – Sat 12 May ‘12, need to wear crampons on summit day, Sun 21 Oct – Sat 10 Nov ‘12, Sun 28 Price: £3,195 from London but similar to Mount Ararat in Turkey, Oct – Sat 17 Nov ‘12 this is classed as a non-technical trek. Price: £2,695 from London 01 Lungser Kangri and the shores of Tso Moriri. Sun 29 Jul – Sat 18 Aug ‘12 Dates: Steve Findlay. 02 The summit ridge of Tharpu Price: £2,695 from London Chuli. Stuart Long. 03 Torres del Paine, Patagonia. Laura Hart.

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08 ucomigp n / 2012

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Mnou t Ararat – Putha Hiunchuli Kyajo Ri (6,186m) – Tiloadea r-m trips a two-week trek to (7,246m) – a technically a stunning line on a Turkey’s fabled summit easy 7,000er in Nepal beautiful Khumbu peak

This is a new trek for us, though we Putha Hiunchuli is the western most peak Kyajo Ri is sandwiched between the We can organise most of our expeditions, have attempted the mountain relatively of the Dhaulagiri Range, first climbed in Thame and Gokyo valleys, on a ridgeline treks, ski tours or courses on a private recently on skis (bad weather thwarted 1954 by the legendary Jimmy Roberts. north of Namche Bazaar. Mixed rock basis for groups of friends, families, this attempt). and a sinuous snow crest lead to a clubs, charities and military teams. The team will fly to Kathmandu and pointy summit. In summer 2012 we have the option trek for over a week to base camp, This gives you the advantage of having of two dates, in July and August, with which is located at c4,900m. From We fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and complete control over your trip, without places on the August trek already filling here we expect to use three camps on trek in via Gokyo and the Renjo La, as having the administrative headache of up. We have opted to run a two-week the mountain, with the highest at part of our acclimatisation. Base camp the organisation. Depending on the trip trip, so that we could visit the Taurus 6,600m. The route is technically easy, at 4,500m is sited in the hidden and your own experience, you may or Mountains, a geologically interesting but with long distances between hanging valley of Kyajo Drangka, which may not need a Jagged Globe leader. range and home to local herders who camps, you can expect it to be very is accessed via the village of Mende. For example, if you are a seasoned graze their flocks during the summer. hard work. Mountaineers with previous Two camps are used above base camp: trekker who would like to complete a By trekking to 3,723m on Elmer Peak, experience on 6,000m peaks graded Camp 1 at 5,300m and a high camp on trek in Nepal or India, we can arrange we should arrive at Mount Ararat 2B could consider this climb if they a col at 5,700m. From here, the route this with one of our local guides on a (5,137m) nicely acclimatised. The are looking for a full-blown expedition to the summit is obvious and involves ‘self-led’ basis. ascent itself usually involves using experience. Please contact us if you slopes up to 50 – 55 degrees, climbed crampons, though it’s not steep and would like to register your interest at Scottish Grade II. Though we aim Please contact us for a quote. is classed as a ‘walking’ peak. as more details will be available in to fix the summit slopes, team February. members need previous experience Dates: Sat 7 Jul – Sat 21 Jul ‘12, at Scottish II/III to join this expedition. Sat 25 Aug – Sat 8 Sep ‘12 Grade: 2D (see jagged-globe.co.uk for It is a steeper, more sustained and an explanation of our grading system). committing climb than Island Peak Price: £1,695 from London or Lobuje East, for example. Adele Dates: Thu 4 Oct – Sun 11 Nov ’12 Pennington, who climbed Kyajo Ri in Price: TBC autumn 2011 will lead our 2012 expedition.

01 Mount Ararat. Bekir Donmez. Grade: 3B 02 Richard Graham on summit day, Kyajo Ri. Dates: Thu 16 Oct – Sun 11 Nov ‘12 Adele Pennington. 03 High on Putha Price: TBC Hiunchuli. Lind.

09 fco us / Mont Blanc

W Chamonix

Cable Car 1035m to 3842m (20 mins approx)

Aiguille du Midi 3842m

Cosmiques Hut 3613m

The Bosses Ridge. Tomaz Jakofcic. The Grand Couloir. Simon Buck. Mont Blanc’s Goûter Route. Stuart Hall.

R2

Nid D’Aigle 2372m R1 Le Grd Couloir Mont Blanc du Tacul 4187m Goûter Hut 3817m Tête-Rousse Hut 3167m

Col Maudit Aiguille du Goûter 4035m 3863m Col du Mont Maudit 4345m R2

Mont Maudit 4347m R1 Dôme du Goûter 4304m

Vallot Hut 4362m R3 Col de la Brenva 4369m

Bosses Ridge 4513m

Piton des Italiens 4002m

Col des Aig. Grises 3810m MONT BLANC Summit 4808m

Gonelle Hut 3071m

R3

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10 W Chamonix In summer 2012, we are offering

Cable Car 1035m to 3842m three routes on (20 mins approx) Western Europe’s MONT highest mountain. Aiguille du Midi 3842m

Summit height: Cosmiques Hut 3613m BLANC ▲ 4,808m (15,774ft)

R1 R2 R3 The The North-East Ridge The Aiguilles R2 Goûter Route from the Col du Midi Grises Route (PD) (PD+/AD-) (PD+)

The Goûter Route (PD) is the most popular This route starts from the Cosmiques The Gonella Hut on the Italian side of Nid D’Aigle ascent route on Mont Blanc and is the Hut, which is reached by taking the Cable Mont Blanc re-opened in summer 2011, 2372m most assured way to the summit. Car from the centre of Chamonix to the with the Aiguilles Grises route seeing R1 Aiguille du Midi. ascents in excellent conditions during Le Grd Couloir Mont Blanc du Tacul 4187m It is also the most frequently in Goûter Hut July and early August. 3817m condition. We begin by taking the From the hut, the route weaves its way Tête-Rousse Hut Tramway du Mont Blanc to Nid D’Aigle up the North West Face of Mont Blanc Though not overly technical, it’s a 3167m from where we walk for three hours to du Tacul. The slopes of Mont Blanc du massive 1,760m of ascent from the hut Col Maudit the Tête-Rousse Hut. We usually spend Tacul are threatened by serac fall, as to the summit and crevassing on the Aiguille du Goûter 4035m 3863m Col du Mont Maudit the night here, or occasionally at the well as being prone to avalanche after glacier that leads to the Col des Aiguille 4345m higher Goûter Hut. Departing the hut fresh snow. It normally takes a couple Grises can prove problematic. Once the R2 in the early hours of the morning, we of hours to reach the shoulder of Mont mixed ridge to the Piton des Italians quickly cross the infamous ‘Grand Blanc du Tacul at c4,000m, from where has been ascended, the route continues Couloir’ (which is exposed to stonefall) Col Maudit is crossed to begin up the narrow Arête de Bionnassay to Mont Maudit 4347m and climb snow and rock to reach the ascending the Northern slopes of Mont join the Goûter Route at the Dôme du R1 Dôme du Goûter Goûter Hut. Moderately-angled snow Maudit. Often the crux of the route is Goûter. We aim to ascend the Aiguilles 4304m slopes lead to the Dôme du Goûter, the exit onto the Col du Mont Maudit at Grises route and descend via the Goûter which leads to the Bosses Ridge and 4,400m, which can be icy. From here we Route. Vallot Hut eventually, the exposed summit ridge. traverse steep slopes under the summit 4362m R3 Col de la Brenva It is normal to take 8 hours to climb of Mont Maudit to arrive at the Col de 4369m Courses from the Tête-Rousse Hut. Descent is Brenva (4,369m) between 4 and 5 Bosses Ridge via the same route, sleeping at either hours after leaving the hut. It’s another Mont Blanc Italian Route 4513m the Goûter or Tête-Rousse huts. couple of hours across the upper slopes Piton des Italiens of Mont Blanc, which are followed to the 4002m Who is it for? Courses summit. We descend via the Goûter Route. This is a far less frequented route than Col des Aig. Grises Mont Blanc Summit / Alpine either the Goûter Route or the The 3810m MONT BLANC Introduction Mont Blanc Extension / Courses North-East Ridge from the Col du Midi. Summit 4808m Haute Route Mont Blanc Extension You need previous Alpine experience Mont Blanc Traverse / 4,000ers on routes of PD+ and you need be very Who is it for? Mont Blanc Extension fit. We will acclimatise on Gran Paradiso and Tresenta, meaning we Our Mont Blanc Summit week is Who is it for? spend most of the week in Italy. designed for those with previous Alpine experience or British winter The Mont Blanc Traverse is suitable See page 16 for dates hillwalking experience. For example, for those with at least a week of and prices. if you have completed an Alpine previous Alpine mountaineering Gonelle Hut 3071m Introduction course or an Introductory experience. If you have climbed other Long Weekend course in Scotland, 4,000m peaks in the Alps, then you you could consider our Mont Blanc could consider this route. If you have no Summit course. However, if you have previous Alpine climbing experience, R3 never used crampons and an ice axe, we recommend attempting Mont Blanc we recommend that you join our Alpine either as a 3-day extension to one of Introduction course, followed by the our week-long courses, or via the Goûter three-day Mont Blanc Extension. You Route on our Mont Blanc Summit can also do a three-day Mont Blanc course (if you have crampon and ice axe extension to our Haute Route trek. experience gained in the UK). We also attempt the North-East Ridge from the Col du Midi on our 4,000ers Mont Blanc Extension course.

11 LOCATIONS / The Alps

Summer Independence Alpine Courses Day

NEW NWE

Alpine Orientation New Course: Tom Hutton finds the Day – Tideswell, Ecrins Alpinism. skills and confidence Peak District. to go it alone.

Saturday 26 May 2012 This new course for 2012 visits the A ll at once it came together That’s whereP elle came in (Register now) quiet Ecrins Massif in the Southern I edged my way along the narrow crest Pelle was the head guide on the Jagged French Alps. Our aim is to climb mixed keeping my eyes firmly planted on the Globe Alpine Techniques course. We are organising a familiarisation routes and snowy summits, with the figure at the other end of the rope and And when he asked me what my goals day in the Peak District for those who aim of attempting the Dôme de Neige doing my absolute best to ignore the were for the 6 day course, I told him in have never been to the Alps before, to des Ecrins (4,015m), if conditions allow. monumental drop on both sides. Part no uncertain terms: I wanted to get rid make sure you know what to expect. The programme will be flexible and has of me wanted to stop and bathe in the of him. I wanted autonomy; this was If you have questions about any aspect been put together by one of our regular exposure – the likes of which I’d never Independence Day. of the Alps, and are booked on a Jagged Guides, Greg Sauget, who grew up in the experienced before. But this was no Globe course, you are welcome to join. area. This is a suitable follow-on course place to start losing it and if I’m honest, The course turned out to be near Alpine Guide, Roger Mear, IFMGA will for those who have completed the this was always a possibility. perfect: I was climbing HS/VS and run the day and will give an overview Alpine Techniques, Saas 4,000ers, Scottish III in winter; I knew a clove- of the Alps. He will talk about weather Zermatt 4,000ers or Oberland 4,000ers We continued; placing each foot with hitch from an Italian hitch and I had conditions, route choice, mountain courses. The routes attempted will be the kind of precision I’d normally a decent amount of mountain nous huts, as well as basic navigation and in the PD/PD+ range. A superb week associate with rock climbing and the picked up from years of hillwalking ropework. for those looking for something a little whole time mulling over the old adage (and a bit of ski touring). I just needed different! about falling into France and jumping to sharpen these skills up a bit and The day is based in Tideswell, in the into Italy – it seemed an unlikely way bring them to the bigger, scarier part Peak District. The cost of the day does Dates: Sat 7 Jul – Sat 14 Jul ‘12 to get out of trouble but I was pretty of the Alps, where speed and efficiency not include accommodation or travel. Sat 4 Aug – Sat 11 Aug ‘12 confident we wouldn’t need to find out. are tested to the limit. I’d also need a Details of the venue and advice Sat 18 Aug – Sat 25 Aug ‘12 much better understanding of the bits on accommodation and travel And then suddenly it was over; I could we don’t get here, like glaciers and arrangements is available upon Price: £1,395 (From Briancon) put my feet more or less where I wanted crevasses. booking your Alpine Course. to again and I no longer felt a need to hold my breath. Al turned around and Price: £50 we grinned at each other. We’d done it: The week split neatly into our first real Alpine classic. rock and mixed The rock days gave myself and my Sooner or later, the Alps will capture fellow course mates a chance to fine the imagination of most climbers. tune our rope work: belaying and tying We can push our grades on the crags off, lowering and abseiling, stance and mountains of the UK. And we can management – almost everything we transpose some of these skills to did came under the spotlight and was include Scottisgh winter and all its improved upon. Speed was always the wonderful, freezing facets. But no 01 On the crux of the priority. Cosmiques Arête. matter how much we ignore the big, Tomaz Jakofcic. scary peaks on the other side of the We climbed sport and trad routes in 02 Traversing the Aiguilles du Entreves. Tomaz Jakofcic. channel, they will keep calling us. the Aiguille Rouges: I pushed my grade with the reassurance of solid bolts, Eventually I succumbed. At first ski something I’m not used to; and Dave touring, something I’ve always enjoyed, placed his own runners for the first became peak bagging – no big deal. time – a daunting experience for most Then I wanted to get out in summer but he made it look easy. and was happy ticking off the summits without the skis. Before long it wasn’t We then left the rock shoes in the hotel even the tops that drew me, I just for a day and traversed the Aiguilles du wanted to climb the routes. I was loving Crochues in big boots. This felt more it: the more I did the more I wanted to like the true alpine experience: a do. But all this was done under the jagged, pinnacled, knife-edge ridge watchful eye of a guide – great as it freed with techie cruxes, easy scrambling my mind to really enjoy the experience, sections and even the odd abseil. I felt but also somehow restricting – I’m not in my element – my Snowdonia roots THE a great follower. proved a good grounding.

Eventually I realised that to truly We took in the summit – the views over develop as a climber I needed to drop the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Mont ALPS the guide. Blanc massif were absolutely mind

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12 “We took in the summit – the views over the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Mont Blanc massif were absolutely mind blowing – and then dropped onto a snowy slope that led sweetly down to the uber-scenic, ever-popular, Lac Blanc. A cold beer was almost obligatory”.

01 He was wonderfully supportive on quite pleased with myself as I swung the crux, which I found a lot harder between gendarmes on the enjoyable than I was expecting. It really is quite final stretch. something pushing your front points into 2 little holes and then pushing up And then it was all over so early – on them. another one of those things you learn about the Alps (well, on the shorter From the lift station, we took the routes anyway). Yet the conditions traversing cable car over the plateau seldom make another route possible. to Hellbronner on the Italian side. So it was with mixed emotions that A short walk led to the Torino Hut – I set off back to the hut – elation at our base for the night. Tomaz gave us the success of the climb, but some interesting lessons on crevasse disappointment that the trip, which rescue on the sunny terrace and then had been truly brilliant, was over. later in the evening, we did a session on navigation. And that was exactly how Al and I felt just two months later as we set off back We also took the time to step outside down to the Conscrits Hut from the and gaze at and photograph the awesome Domes de Miage. We had alpenglow on the impressive southern enjoyed a classic Alpine day on a classic face of Mont Blanc. Alpine route – our first real biggie. And yet it was barely mid-morning. We sat The two guides also ran through basic on a rock and enjoyed the sunshine – hut etiquette, which was useful for the this time tomorrow we’d be on our way others who’d not used one before. Final home. word was about getting up and getting moving in the morning. Something we We’d certainly had the full Alpine actually managed well. experience: summits and failure in the Aiguille Rouges – everyone needs Our final objective was a traverse of to know when to back off. A magical the Aiguille d’Entreves – a modest bivi by Lac Blanc – one of those things crest of granite that shares a col with you have to do before you die. We’d 02 the far more impressive Tour Ronde. managed to dodge some serious Seen from the hut, it looked little more stonefall beneath the Aiguille du than an outcrop with the summit of Chamois – nothing can prepare you blowing – and then dropped onto a a wonder world of blue and white just Mont Blanc towering over 1km above it. for the violence of giant cannonballs snowy slope that led sweetly down above the half way station. We geared- But up close, it looked every bit as hurtling down the mountainside at to the uber-scenic, ever-popular, up nervously and roped-up to descend intimidating as the other ridges we’d that speed; and I’d gone in a crevasse Lac Blanc. A cold beer was almost the narrow arête onto the glacier. I was traversed and I set off with more than up to my waist on the Tré la Tête – obligatory. now paired with a second guide: Tomaz just a little intrepidation. that’s something I could definitely live Jakofcic – a modest, quiet-spoken without ever happening again. Wednesday was to be our first mixed Slovenian with an impressive Alpine I shouldn’t have worried. Despite the day but the fickle Chamonix weather and Greater Ranges CV. incredible positions – high above the We’d seen sunrises and sunsets, had other ideas so we dug out the rock Toula Glacier – and the impressive moons and brochen spectres, and shoes and chalk bags again and trooped Tomaz and I became a rope team – neighbours, which included the Dent eagles and ibex. And we’d even south through the Mont Blanc tunnel, fantastic from a learning perspective du Geant as well as the Tour Ronde and managed to stick to the odd guidebook to the Corma di Machaby. Here we but slightly daunting having such an Mont Blanc, the climbing was time! enjoyed some 9 pitches of pristine experienced second as we started up enthralling but never too difficult. granite on Diretta al Banano (5c) – the Cosmiques Arete. We moved A wicked wind whipped in from the But what mattered most to me was a truly memorable climb that was together well – and I was grateful for north at about half distance, and this that for the first time, we’d done it completed just minutes before the any tips and advice my partner could made life pretty tough on the sections completely by ourselves. Thanks to storm caught us up – well-judged Pelle. give me as we continued. But it did that followed the windward side. Pelle, Tomaz and the Alpine feel rather over the top at times as I Techniques course, I’d finally found Thursday dawned disappointing too meticulously practiced every bit of The crux wasn’t unlike the Cosmiques the confidence to go it alone. but the Meteo assured us the weather the safety system on a climber that – a strenuous mantle made all the more was fine above the cloud so we went for could have done the route blindfolded strenuous by the altitude. But I I’ve already started planning it. Sure enough, the Aiguille du Midi and on crutches. managed this one a little better than next year’s trip… cable car broke through the grey into the previous day’s attempt and felt

13 GAE R / Essentials

T RICKS & TIPS / 3 Ski Mountaineering Essentials

Jagged Globe’s Ski 3. Woolen underwear. TECH Mountaineering Course Perhaps I shouldn’t mention this in polite company but we ski tourers Director, Jim Blyth used to smell. Badly. A week or more IFMGA has these tips. in the same polypro was not a good thing. It never felt good next to the 1. big mittens. skin either. A huge thank you to I don’t know whether it’s due to Icebreaker for re-inventing the & SPEC many seasons ice climbing and wheel and giving us wonderfully exposure to the cold, or just getting comfortable, almost odourless older, but I get painfully cold hands thermal underwear. The garments GAE R / Trekking boots on early morning starts and when don’t last nearly as long (but then skiing at altitude. Unless the day is polypro is indestructible) but definitely going to be a warm one, I that’s a small price to pay. Many H ow light is too light? A 3-4 season boot with more rigidity never leave without my big Black manufacturers provide us with A bendy fabric trekking gives you increased security on this Diamond mittens. They are worth these garments and the range and terrain. When choosing a boot, try on every penny and change my day choice is now as confusing as with boot is great for low-angled as many as possible to find something each time I put them on. Add a pair most items of outdoor gear. Before walking, but most Jagged comfortable. Ideally, have them fitted of chemical hand warmers and I’m buying a thermal top, make sure with a specialist insole. Overall, the ready for a long, cold one. the back is long enough. I still see Globe treks involve rough message is not to go too light! On some too many garments cut too short ground, with some steep of our more challenging treks where 2. Lightweight down jacket. leading to a cold and uncomfortable crampons might be used, you need I’ve been advocating this bit of kit lower back. sections of loose scree. a 4-season ‘B1’ rated boot, such as for years. The last thing into my Scarpa’s classic ‘SL’. Our Trek rucksack and the first out. Every Dossiers give advice specific to each time I stop, on it goes. I used to carry trek, but if in doubt, call us! a sleeveless down vest but face fabrics have become so much lighter and jacket design so much better that I now enjoy the benefit of sleeves. I don’t need a down hood though as my hooded fleece looks after my head. Synthetic jackets mean you can now be warm in climates where down is less suitable (i.e. where it can get wet).

GAE R / Solar Chargers T RICKS & TIPS / Construction of snow anchors

We are often asked to A 7-watt solar charger is fine for most In hard snow you can Buried Axe Belay recommend a portable camera batteries, portable MP3 players back the bucket seat up – The depth of the buried axe depends and mobile phones. You need a 12-watt on the quality of the snow solar charger for charging video solar panel. We like the with a buried axe belay. – A sling is tightened onto the ice axe cameras and laptops (a set up with a foldable panels by Select shaft with a clove hitch at the portable universal battery is required balance point on the shaft Solar, as they’re robust, for charging laptops). – Do not disturb the snow in front compact and reliable. Select Solar are offering a10% of the axe discount to Jagged Globe customers. – Always use in conjunction with Just insert the code JAGGED when a bucket seat. ordering on-line at

www.selectsolar.co.uk

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14 GAE R / Ski selection

BASI Coach and Jagged H orses for courses Where to start? Rocker – Technological breakthrough 90mm (give or take a mm or two) is or Marketing Hype? Globe Off Piste Skiing First off, accept that whatever ski you my current starting point when looking The industry buzz-word over the last choose will be a compromise. A fat Course Director, Simon at skis for all-round off piste and ski couple of years has been ‘Rocker’. Put freeride ski will not perform as well on touring use. Any skinnier than this and simply, rocker describes a section of Christy, gives the lowdown hard snow as a narrower ski (despite we lose float and ‘recoverability’ in soft the ski that bends gradually upwards, what many will say), but it will be heaps on choosing the right skis snow. Any wider than this and we start either at the front (and before you ask, of fun on big powder days and in for general off piste skiing. to encounter the challenges mentioned yes – my skis have always bent up at chopped up snow. A super-light, skinny above. the front too...!), back, or the whole way Whilst there are no rando-race ski will not be particularly along. By reducing the edge contact ‘floaty’ in the soft stuff, but it will save absolutes when it comes length rocker can make it much easier energy when skinning uphill and be 2. radius to steer skis round a turn and (at the to choosing skis, Simon easier to edge on firm snow. At some The radius of a ski describes the size tip), also assists with getting the skis point we have to decide where our has 17 years of ski teaching of circle a ski will track around if tilted planing higher in/on the snow. experience, so hopefully priorities lie. onto its edge and allowed to slide along The counterpoint to this is that reduced this article should provide this. Generally speaking, a radius below The numbers 17/18m would be considered very edge length = reduced potential grip some useful pointers. ‘turny’ or ‘carvy’, with anything over both while skiing downhill as well as How can we narrow down our choice of 25m being considered quite straight. skinning back up again. The most common question I field ski? Every model of skis will have some before ski courses is what skis to use. A very carvy ski, while being great fun numbers associated with it: Length, Weight – light is right, right? Width (normally 3 measurements – on the piste, is not necessarily the ideal The answer is of course longer than choice off the beaten track. The greater tip, waist and tail) and Radius. For those of an uphill persuasion, the proverbial piece of string, but I the difference between tip and waist, shaving grams off kit can become an will try to shed some light on how to The starting point for me is always the more unpredictable and twitchy obsession, but a word of warning – the select a suitable ski from the dozens waist width. This has been creeping up the ski will be. In heavier or crusty snow lighter the ski, the less solid it will be. of models on offer. over the years. In the late 1990s 80mm this ‘hooky’ feeling is amplified and In the last year I have seen 3 carbon was deemed fat, these days waists of can combine with the weird sensation skis break under not particularly hard 120mm+ are not uncommon and an of the tip staying afloat and foot use – caveat emptor! 80mm waist would be considered disappearing into the depths. biased towards piste skiing! My personal preference would always Also in tight, concave gullies, or on be to go for a solid ‘downhill’-oriented steep icy skin tracks a short radius ski ski, as the excess grams can easily be will give an uncomfortable feeling of 1. Width shed in other areas (bindings, personal contact at the tip and tail, while the Wider-waisted skis give the kit, personal etc). following benefits: foot bounces around on fresh air.

More float in powder. This not only At the other end of the scale, a long Suggestions feels great, but it also gives us lots of radius ski will need more proactive leeway. If we do get slightly out of shape, steering to make tight turns and if left For skiers on our Off Piste Introduction or have a ‘moment’ where all our weight to its own devices will carve long (very) or Introduction to Ski Mountaineering ends up on one ski, there is room for and fast (very) arcs. This is great if you courses, I would suggest looking for a recovery, where a skinny ski would want to do 50mph down a big Alaskan ski with around 90mm at the waist, disappear down into the depths, face, less so if you are looking to make with a turn radius of about 18/20m normally followed by our head! Wider neat ‘Wedeln’ turns to match the 50 (check out Salomon Lord, Fischer skis tend to smooth out inconsistencies Swiss tracks already farming a slope. Watea 88, Scott Mission or Crusair, in the snow, giving a more predictable Trab Stelvio Light, Movement Source). When selecting skis for working with ride, particularly in chopped up or clients on off piste coaching courses, For more advanced courses you may variable snow; they are less ‘twitchy’ I look for a ski with radius between 18 want to go bigger and fatter for more and tend to be easier to slide around and 22m. downhill fun, or you may wish to a turn smoothly. optimise the weight/fun ratio by

But... sticking on a ‘narrower’ ski. 3. length Wide skis tend to have a ‘sideways’ This can really only be chosen through feel, which can be disconcerting at first. experience. Bear in mind that the You have to work very hard to keep shorter the ski, the smaller the surface the skis on edge and the wider the ski, area (hence less float), though generally the longer the lever arm trying to pull with a wider ski we can afford to lose a the ski flat. few centimeters of length, as the extra width will compensate. The cat among Also, if you are skinning uphill, the the pigeons is ‘Rocker’, as this can make skin track may simply be too narrow a ski feel ‘long’ or ‘short’... and the wider stance can be uncomfortable. If the snow is firm, even with ski-crampons a wide ski can feel very insecure on steeper traverses and skin tracks.

Finally, a wider ski is necessarily going to be slightly heavier than a narrower ski, as it uses more material.

15 D aTE and prices / Need to know?

Ma ont Bl nc Sottisc h Off PiSTE Alpine Ski Winter Courses Skiing Mountaineering

Mont Blanc Summit Introductory Winter At the time of publication, the following Introductory Ski Mountaineering Sat 9 Jun – Sat 16 Jun ‘12 Mountaineering, Winter European Courses and Tours still have Sat 3 Mar – Sat 10 Mar ‘12 Sat 16 Jun – Sat 23 Jun ‘12 Mountaineering and Snow places available on them: (With Andy Owen and Jim Kerr) and Ice Climbing: Sat 23 Jun – Sat 30 Jun ‘12 Sat 17 Mar – Sat 24 Mar ‘12 OffP iste Introduction Sat 7 Jul – Sat 14 Jul ‘12 Sun 15 Jan – Fri 20 Jan ‘12 (With Andy Owen) (Andermatt) Sat 4 Aug – Sat 11 Aug ‘12 Sun 22 Jan – Fri 27 Jan ‘12 (The 3 Valleys) Sat 14 Apr – Sat 21 Apr ‘12 Sat 1 Sep – Sat 8 Sep ‘12 Sun 29 Jan – Fri 3 Feb ‘12 Sat 21 Jan – Sat 28 Jan ‘12 (With Andy Owen) Sat 8 Sep – Sat 15 Sep ‘12 Sun 5 Feb – Fri 10 Feb ‘12 Sat 25 Feb – Sat 3 Mar ‘12 Sat 15 Sep – Sat 22 Sep ‘12 Sun 12 Feb – Fri 17 Feb ‘12 Prices: £895 (From Chamonix), Price: £775 Sun 19 Feb – Fri 24 Feb ‘12 £995 (From Andermatt) Price: £1,795 Sun 26 Feb – Fri 2 Mar ‘12 (From Brides-les-Bains, apartment joining in Chamonix accommodation. With Neil Milne BASI) Sun 4 Mar – Fri 9 Mar ‘12 Haute Route Sun 11 Mar – Fri 16 Mar ‘12 Mont Blanc Traverse OffP iste Improvers (Tignes) Sat 31 Mar – Sun 8 Apr ‘12 Sun 18 Mar – Fri 23 Mar ‘12 (With Andy Owen) Sat 16 Jun – Sat 23 Jun ‘12 Sun 25 Mar – Fri 30 Mar ‘12 Sat 28 Jan – Sat 4 Feb ‘12 Sat 23 Jun – Sat 30 Jun ‘12 Sat 21 Apr – Sun 29 Apr ‘12 Price: £1,255 (With Andy Owen) Sat 7 Jul – Sat 14 Jul ‘12 Introductory Long Weekend Sat 21 Jul – Sat 28 Jul ‘12 (From Tignes Val Claret, half-board Fri 20 Jan – Mon 23 Jan ‘12 hotel accommodation plus 6-day lift Price: £1,195 (From Chamonix) Sat 18 Aug – Sat 25 Aug ‘12 Fri 27 Jan – Mon 30 Jan ‘12 Sat 1 Sep – Sat 8 Sep ‘12 pass, With Simon Christy BASI) Fri 3 Feb – Mon 6 Feb ‘12 Queyras Ski Tour Fri 10 Feb – Mon 13 Feb ‘12 Price: £1,795 OffP iste Perfection (La Grave) Sat 24 Mar – Sat 31 Mar ‘12 Fri 17 Feb – Mon 20 Feb ‘12 joining in Chamonix Sat 4 Feb – Sat 11 Feb ’12 (With Andy Owen) Fri 24 Feb – Mon 27 Feb ‘12 (From Bourg d’Oisans, half-board Fri 2 Mar – Mon 5 Mar ‘12 Price: £950 (From Briancon) Mont Blanc Italian Route accommodation. With Simon Christy Fri 9 Mar – Mon 12 Mar ‘12 Sat 14 Jul – Sat 21 Jul ‘12 BASI and Jim Kerr IFMGA) Fri 16 Mar – Mon 19 Mar ‘12 Ski Silvretta Sat 28 Jul – Sat 4 Aug ‘12 Fri 23 Mar – Mon 26 Mar ‘12 Sun 26 Feb – Sun 4 Mar ‘12 Sat 11 Aug – Sat 18 Aug ‘12 (With Jim Blyth) Prices: Introductory Winter Price: £1,795 Mountaineering (£655), (From Galtür) joining in Chamonix Price: £865 Winter Mountaineering (£765), Introductory Long Weekend (£395) Ski Chamonix Day Tours Mont Blanc Extensions and Snow and Ice Climbing . (£895) Sat 28 Jan – Sat 4 Feb ‘12 Our 3-day Mont Blanc Extensions (With Jim Blyth) run every week Saturday – Wednesday and Wednesday – Saturday from 23 Price: £995 (From Chamonix) June to 22 September 2012. We also offer 3-day Mont Blanc extensions to Oberland Ski Tour + Mont Blanc our Haute Route glaciated trek. These Wed 16 May – Wed 23 May ‘12 run Wednesday – Saturday and also (Oberland, with Jim Blyth) cost £995. Please note that the 3-day extension Wed 23 May – Sat 26 May ‘12 can only be booked together with (Mont Blanc, with Jim Blyth) a preceding course. Prices: £1,395 from Brig (Oberland), Price: £995 £850 from Chamonix (Mont Blanc)

P lease visit our website for more information about exotic ski expeditions further afield in 2012, including Armenia J agged Globe and Georgia, Argentina, Chile The Foundry Studios, and Antarctica! 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield, S3 8EN, United Kingdom T. 0845 345 8848 W. jagged-globe.co.uk

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