This Issue Mont Blanc – 3 Routes to the Summit Expedition Report – Makalu 8,463M Prize Draw – Win Scarpa Boots! Tech & Spec – Ski Selection
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Issue 2 Expeditions & Courses 2012 CLIMB/ TREK/SKI This Issue Mont Blanc – 3 routes to the summit Expedition report – Makalu 8,463m Prize draw – win Scarpa boots! Tech & Spec – Ski selection Winter Mountaineering course, Scotland, 2011. Alex Ekins. www.jagged-globe.co.uk IN BRIEF / Around the globe in 2012 Welcome to our winter newsletter. We’ve included a selection of reports, technical advice and updates about Jagged Globe Climb, Trek and Ski expeditions and courses. 2011 saw us involved in some special projects, like the 737 Challenge and an expedition to Makalu, the world’s 5th highest mountain. In 2012 we will continue to FLES E CE AND broaden our range of skiing and trekking trips, as WATERPROOF well as remaining focussed on our core JACKETS TO AfRICA Our latest order of 200 fleeces and 200 mountaineering. We are also organising more tailor- waterproof jackets has just arrived. made trips, for those who prefer to travel with These will be sent out to Moshi, to be distributed amongst porters working friends in smaller groups and want to go ‘self-led’. on Kilimanjaro. Look out for porters wearing our new gear on Africa’s highest mountain from January. Please call 0845 345 8848 if you would like to discuss any of our Climb, Trek or Ski adventures, or visit jagged-globe.co.uk for more info and booking. CLIMB / with us TKRE / with us SKI / with us P WRIZE DRA / SCOTLAND HM I ALAYAS EUROPE WA IN A P IR OF Where: Glencoe Where: Nepal Where: Austria and Greece SCARPA BOOTS! When: January to March When: May and October/November When: February Book a Jagged Globe, CLIMB, TREK or SKI trip before 29 February 2012 and 92% of Scottish WinterC ourses Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes. We are offering an additional Ski we will automatically enter you into a participants gave our Instructors Silvretta departure on Sunday 26 prize draw to win one of the following: top marks! This is the best Everest trek out there. February to Sunday 4 March 2012. It includes crossings of the Renjo La, – Book CLIMB (Win Scarpa Of the 63 feedback forms we received Cho La and Kongma La, with ascents This Introductory level tour is superb Phantom 6000) from 2011 Scottish Winter Courses of Gokyo Ri, Kala Pattar and Chukkung value at £865 joining in Galtür, participants, when asked “Please grade Ri. This packed itinerary supersedes Austria. Fly to Innsbruck from where – Book TREK (Win Scarpa SL) the quality of the instruction overall”, and is a day longer than our High the excellent public transport system – Book SKI (Win Scarpa 58 people graded the instruction ‘5’ Passes to Everest trek. At the time will get you to Galtür. We stay in top Maestrale/Gea) (Excellent), 4 people graded it ‘4’ (Good) of print there are just a few places quality mountain huts and will target There are three pairs of boots up for and 1 person graded it ‘3’ (Average). remaining on our May departure. anything up to six 3,000m peaks. grabs, with a winner drawn from each Join our Instructor team in Scotland The new Macedonia Ski Discovery category. So if you book a SKI course this winter! Dates: Thu 3 May – Sun 27 May ’12, tour (Sat 11 – Sun 19 Feb ‘12, £1,575 and a CLIMB course, you will be Thu 11 Oct – Sun 4 Nov ‘12 from Skopje) is suitable for adventurous “The course personnel were among the entered into two prize draws. ski mountaineers. The team will most inspiring group of individuals I’ve Price: £2,495 from London convene in Athens. Please visit The winner will be announced in the ever met. Exceptionally down to earth www.jagged-globe.co.uk for April issue of our E-mail Newsletter, and modest about their considerable more details and booking. ‘Jagged Globe News’. You can register achievements. We would have followed for Jagged Globe News at them all up Everest if they had asked, they instilled that much confidence. jagged-globe.co.uk/news/ The more technical aspects of the course email.html were conveyed and managed in an engaging and easy to follow manner, never once did I feel intimidated by learning new skills. Assertive when they needed to be, we also had a good laugh.” SC, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011 For dates and prices see page 16. Taking bookings now for 2012 F ollow us on Twitter Become a fan on Facebook www.jagged-globe.co.uk www.twitter.com/jaggedglobe www.facebook.com/jaggedglobe 02 PEOPLE / Iain Peter Iain Peter just below the summit of Everest in spring 2007 Iain has been an IFMGA Guide for 30 years and was the CEO at Plas Y Brenin for 10 years. He’s also a co-author of the classic “The Handbook of Climbing”. In 2012 Iain is leading our Alpamayo (9 June – 1 July, £3,595 from London), Huascaran (16 Jun – 11 Jul, £3,525 from London) and Ama Dablam (3 Nov – 2 Dec, £4,495 from London) expeditions. 01 PEOPLE / Pasang Sherpa 27-year old Pasang is one of only a few IFMGA-qualified Sherpas, who also instructs for the Nepal Mountain Guiding Federation (NMGF). He has worked for Jagged Globe on 8,000m peaks since 2003 and has made eleven 8,000m ascents with us, including eight Everest summits. More recently, he has led Jagged Globe teams on trekking peaks in the Khumbu. “Pasang is a born trip leader” (RH, Everest Base Camp and Island Peak, October 2011). 02 03 01 Mont Blanc. Jonathan Griffith. 02 Nubra. Steve Findlay. 03 Manaslu Circuit. Klaudia Klausz. 04 Evening turns on Mt Triad, West Coast Glaciers, NZ. Jim Blyth. 04 LOCATIONS / Around the globe in 2012 Scotland Calling We’re looking forward O ur base We’re incredibly lucky to be based to three months of at the Ballachulish Hotel. It’s in a winter walking, great location, with quick access to Glencoe, Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and mountaineering and the Mamores. There’s a fantastic climbing as our Scottish atmosphere in the hotel, with teams arriving back off the hill each evening Winter Courses for tea and biscuits to regale each commence on 15 other with their stories. In February 2012 we will have 30+ people in the January. We’re hotel during some of the busier weeks, passionate about the so expect to meet some interesting 01 people and dip into a diverse range Scottish mountains and of experiences. A word from our Course Director Last year’s feedback what they can offer us. Ed Chard is in charge of our staff in We had some superb feedback from Which course? Scotland and the overall delivery of winter 2011. In particular, our Instructors really shone: Scotland is the perfect It’s simple really. If you’re a keen our programme: winter playground for summer hill walker and want to venture “All the staff are getting ready for a new “The quality of instruction made the into the mountains in winter, then our learning new skills, season in Scotland. Most have had a busy course for me. All three Instructors were Introductory Winter Mountaineering summer season rock climbing and superb. They were also a model in how preparing for an course is the best place to start. mountaineering but are sharpening axes to work as a team under clear leadership. For aspiring climbers who want to get expedition or simply in readiness for some winter action as we I was probably the one who struggled onto graded routes which need to be speak. Last year we had a total mix of most with the course and I was given enjoying the action! We pitched, the intermediate level Winter weather, some stunning days and some tremendous help in a very unpatronising course is the way to go. go out in all weathers, Mountaineering pretty ugly ones as well. We met some top way. When I was struggling with a Snow and Ice Climbing is just that. Two folk who were really up for the challenge descent I was helped by Alex and didn’t which means you get to tools, on routes graded Scottish III – V. that Scottish winter mountaineering feel I was holding up the whole group, We also offer an IntroductoryLong experience everything brings. Our aim is to push people – gently, which would have increased pressure Weekend for hill walkers. sometimes perhaps a little bit further on me. The team got it just right in giving from raging blizzards than they might imagine. I think that our me enough challenge but not to the Instructors are amongst the best in the point where I felt unhappy. Their to blue sky days. All Private Guiding business. People always come away really encouragement was superb. I learnt Increasingly, we are asked if we can great preparation for feeling like they’ve progressed, pushed a tremendous amount and loved the arrange private guiding. This is and most importantly, had a good time. way the instructors combined sharing a Himalayan adventure normally at a 1:2 or 1:1 ratio, depending We have a superb team ethos amongst technical skills with a sense of love on what you want to achieve. It might or for future winter our Instructors and I like to think that this and respect for the mountains. I also be a day focussing on advanced rope shows in the way they interact with our appreciated the time given by Sam, adventures, under techniques, or crevasse rescue, course participants.” Alex and Andy Chapman to helping following on from your course, or you your own leadership.