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www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Norwegian Cruising Guide 2 Bodø to Narvik with Lofoten

Map based on C-MAP cartography, See Detail Below Not for navigation. Tjeldøya Liland 68° 30’ N

Borgvær Tjelsundet Ramsundet Ofot orden Hinnøya Skjomen orden Narvik Lødingen Kjeldebotn Botnøya (NE) Skarstad Ballangen Raftsundet Korsnes HamsundpollenTannøyvågen Beits orden (SE) Vallebukta Leknes and Teppkilen Leknessjøen Bjørnvågen Austvågøya Straumhamn Tranøy Svolvær Tys orden Sildpollen Vestvågøya Dalsvær Lofoten Islands Henningsvær Ste ordbotn Sør-Skjomen Kjerk orden Sommarselvågen or Hallarvika Stamsund Skutvika Æsøya Presteidvika TrollvikaSkarsvåg Kjøpsvik Sund FlakstadøyaStraumøyaBallstad Hamarøya Nus ord Hakvåg Kjerrvika Kunna Oksøysundet TømmervikaØrnes 68°N Hamnøya Reine Røtnesvågen 7 Moskenes Ankersvågen MoskenesøyaSørvågen TørrisnesetBogen Refsvika Å Buvågen Røssøya Hellemobotn Vest orden Trolløya/Brennøya Nordskot 8 Nordland Værøy

Helnessund

Røst Kjerringøy 67° 30’ N Vedøya Indre VettøysundetHjelløya Skomvær Kjelbotn Sandvika Vågøysundet Coastal Danger Areas Helligvær #7 Winds: NW-NE, Current/Tide: N-NE OsholmenBodø current generally, Depth: In general, <200m. #8 Winds: SW-W, Current/Tide: Ebb, Depth: 300-450m.

12° E 14° E 16° E

Map based on C-MAP cartography, Not for navigation. Hinnøya Ingelsorden Vestpollen

Slåtøya/Bukkøya Tengelorden

Laukvik or Laukvika

Grundorden

Trollorden

Austnesorden Raftsundet Hegstadosen

Kvannkjosen Digermulen

Fløtningsviken Oﬀersøya

Svellingen Austvågøya Ulvågen Risvær Steinsøya Store Molla Gullvika Svolvær Brettesnes

Kabelvåg ØrsvågNyvågar or Storvågen Skrova Vest orden Henningsvær

Tømmervik Skarsvåg Oksøysundet If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and ©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed you will be supporting future editions. Røssøya without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10. Rotnesvågen www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Bogen

Nordskot

Indre Vettøysundet

Hjelløya Norwegian Cruising Guide 3

Charts This area includes Lofoten—the chain of islands separated from the main- Overview at 1:350,000: land by the Vestfjord—long consideredthe destination for mariners cruis- Chart 311. A nice luxury: ing north Norway due to its stunning mountain scenery and snug anchor- Charts 319 and 320 at ages. However, equally worth visiting are the spectacular remote anchor- 1:200,000 and Charts 227 ages, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, of the inshore islands and and 229 at 1:100,000. The the narrow fjord systems on the mainland side of the Vestfjord. This cre- recommended detailed ates a dilemma for the sailor with limited cruising time, though it is worth coverage at 1:50,000: Charts noting that the distances are relatively short in this area. For example, the 65 to 77. Also recommended whole length of Lofoten is only about 120 miles and the width of the at 1:80,000: Chart 230. Vestfjord ranges from 10 to 40 miles. Chart 461 for Narvik, Chart If you are not going any further north than Lofoten, you may wish to 462 for Svolvær and Chart consider following the order of harbours and anchorages in this chapter 476 for Bodø starting in Bodø and traveling in a counter-clockwise direction around the Havneguiden (HG) Vestfjord, making detours in to the Tysfjord and the Ofotfjord, and up the Vol. 4: Bergen - Kirkenes Raftsund—a channel that leads out of the Vestfjord to the north—to visit Counties the famous Trollfjord. Continuing on to the north through the Raftsund, Nordland you could turn west and stop in Laukvik to see the midnight sun before re-entering the Vestfjord through any number of channels further to the south. Or you could retrace your path through the Raftsund, and then sail south down the chain of islands, crisscrossing to the Atlantic side if time allows and you are so inclined, until Skomvær where you can make passage directly to one of the offshore islands around the Arctic Circle, such This spectacular mountain scene as Myken or Træna, or to the Holandsfjord. appears when approaching the An option for those of you passing through Lofoten on your way fur- narrow but deep Svartsund, ther north is to make landfall at Skomvær and then work your way north westbound for the Trollford, along the chain of islands, exiting the Vestfjord through the Raftsund with taken from the Raftsund. a stop at the Trollfjord. On your way back south, you can reenter the Vestfjord through the Tjeldsund (further east than the Raftsund) and then explore the fjords and islands on the mainland side of the Vestfjord from there.

Vestfjorden, partitioned from the Atlantic by Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Lofoten, is the world’s richest cod ground, and this determines a great deal of the character of the area. Lofotfisket (the Lofoten fishery), with hundreds of moderate sized fishing boats following the cod as they leave the Barents Sea to spawn in the Vestfjord from January to April, is a major economic as well as cultural and social force. There is also a huge herring fishery during the fall. The outer villages have a rich history and unique character shaped by this means of existence, which was, until recently, a very harsh one. However, during the summer months, the fishing is at a low level, leaving plenty of berthing room for cruising boats.

Tides and Tidal Streams: The greatest spring tides in this area are just over 3 m. HW is 1.5 hours after Bergen. Tidal streams in the Nappstraum, Gimsøystraum and Raftsund peak at 4 knots, flowing north between 2.5 hours before and 3.5 hours after HW. In the narrows of the Raftsund, the Dried cod (stockfish) baled and north-flowing stream can reach 7 knots with a strong wind. As with tide- ready for shipping to market. races more common in UK waters, the Moskenstraum (the inspiration for Jules Verne’s Maelstrom) can be dangerous with strong wind against tide,

If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and ©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed you will be supporting future editions. without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10. www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Norwegian Cruising Guide 4

and it is a good idea to avoid the lumpiness in the area between Røst and Værøy by staying a bit to the southeast. The rock-strewn north approaches of the Gimsøystraum are notoriously dangerous with a strong north wind against the tide.

A calm evening scene at Røst, a working harbour that typifies this area where fishing is still an important part of life.

Chapter Organization: The harbours below are listed fromBodø (covered in the last chapter) N and then counter clockwise to the S tip of Lofoten. To assist in planning, here is a list of those harbours we consider to be the most outstanding. Since we like to hike, many of our choices are based on good walking/hiking in the vicinity: Hamsundpollen, Ørnes, Hellemobotn, Skjomenfjorden, Digermulen, Gullvika, Skrova, Henningsvær, Straumøya, Reine and Røst. Bodø to Hamarøya

Helligvær (SE Vokkøya) 67°25.6’ N, 13°59’ E This is a small isolated village in one ofBodø ’s outlying skerries. Note sev- Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Last Visited: 2005 eral overhead cables, some charted and some added since chart publica- Chart: 65 tion. HG: Vol. 4: Helligvær Anchorages, Moorings: There are quays and pontoons. The charted anchorage on the 10 m sounding is forbidden duetoa water pipe between the islands. One contributor managed to anchor between the islands at the 9 m sounding just E of the anchor symbol on the chart but found the holding poor and would only recommend this as a fair weather anchorage. There are a quay and pontoons at NW Sørværøya, with fuel, P.O. and shop.

Osholmen (SW Landegode) 67°24’ N, 14°15.6’ E The three high peaks of Landegode serve as a landmark which can be seen Last Visited: 2006 from anywhere in the Vestfjord. Chart: 65 HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Approaches: Entry is from the W or N through small islets, and it is worth Landegode, Sør exploring a bit before deciding where to drop the hook since there are a number of possible anchoring spots.

Anchorages, Moorings: This wild and beautiful anchorage has several beaches and many eagles—John Armitage once counted 12 in an hour.

Sandvika (SE Landegode) 67°23.1’ N, 14°18.5’ E There are nice beaches and a park area ashore. Last Visited: 2007 Chart: 65 Anchorages, Moorings: Though one contributor reported difficulty -get HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under ting the anchor to set in 16 m depth, another reported good holding in 13 Landegode, Sør m depth in a mix of sand and mud. There is good swinging room and good all around protection from Landegode and a number of small islands and reefs.

Things To Do: It is a lovely walk across to the sand beaches on the W side of the island.

Kjelbotn (NE Landegode) 67°25.4’ N, 14°23.5’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This anchorage is often used but is reported to be Last Visited: 1996 unsafe at times due to gusts and uncertain holding; there are other options Chart: 65 around the island.

Vågøysundet 67°22.15’ N, 14°33.2’ E Note that there is a charted overhead cable with 15 m clearance at the S Last Visited: 2007 end of the Vågøysund. Chart: 65 Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 14 m depth in sand with good holding. This anchorage is sheltered from all wind directions except for a narrow sector from the NNE.

Kjerringøy 67°31.3’ N, 14°45.6’ E A stone breakwater has been added at the N entrance to the harbour, im- Last Visited: 2009 proving protection in N winds, and the harbour has been dredged to a

Chart: 66 minimum depth of 3 m. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten HG: Vol. 4: Kjerringøy Approaches: Approach from the N, passing E of the isolated breakwater and through the mole opening.

Anchorages, Moorings: The visitors’ pontoon is to port as you enter the harbour, by the fuel pump. Berth on the NE side of the pontoon; the inside fingerberths are private. The charge is 120kr/24hrs. The charted anchorage just S of Kjerringøy has been obstructed with two submerged water pipes, which are not shown on older charts.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available on the pontoon. Diesel is available with a credit card.

For The Crew: There is a new service building with toilets, showers, laundry facilities and a TV room. The supermarket is located just behind the harbour on the way to the museum.

Things To Do: This is a notable 19th century trading port, the grounds serving as a tourist museum with a café. There is a new hotel with a bar over-

looking the harbour. Talk to the hotel manager about activities in the area. Apparently there is a sea eagle’s nest on one of the nearby islands that he can point out.

Hjelløya (Karlsøvær) 67°32.75’ N, 14°39.1’ E All Karlsøvær and Slovær, just to the N, is a Bird and Nature Reserve, with Last Visited: 1996 a Bird Protection Area extended out to 2 km. Between April 15 and July 15 Chart: 6 you may approach the shore but not land.

Anchorages, Moorings: The anchorage lies off Kjerringøy in a small, pretty, secluded channel with a sandy bottom. You will need to use two anchors.

Indre Vettøysundet 67°40.6’ N, 14°43.7’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This is an especially scenic wild anchorage, well Last Visited: 1996 sheltered, with wooded hills and eagles. There is good swinging room in 4 Chart: 66 to 5 m depth with a sand bottom off the S-most beach.

Helnessund 67°43.9’ N, 14°46.2’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There is a charted anchorage in the sound but the Last Visited: 2007 swinging area is limited, there is a submerged cable, and the sound is used Chart: 66 by ferries. The visitors’ pontoons are only suitable for small boats but it HG: Vol. 4: Helnessund may be possible to tie up to a boat on one of the quays.

For The Boat: There is a fuel station in the village near the quay and an ac- tive boat yard with slip that might be of assistance in an emergency.

For The Crew: There is a good shop in the village.

Things To Do: The trail up to the community hut, Skarbua (alt 650 m), be- gins with a walk of about 6 km along the road that runs E through Leines and then, about 1 km past Leines, turns right up a valley road. Look for the Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten signed path to Skarbua. The path then climbs up through thinning low trees to a grassy ridge over which is the very well-equipped community hut. The tourist office inBodø carries maps for this part of Steigen Kommune. If you are interested in swimming, there are some nice beaches in Helnessund.

Nordskot (Grøtøya) 67°50.2’ N, 14°47.3’ E In the 2nd Edition of the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this anchorage was Last Visited: 2009 referred to as Grøtøya. Chart: 67 (inset) The island of Grøtøya nestles in an archipelago below dramatic peaks, HG: Vol. 4: Nordskot on a complex but well-marked channel, which is much easier to navigate than it looks on the chart. Note that the cables over the NW entrance are now posted as having 23 m clearance, not 25 m as on the chart. After much puzzling and increasingly bizarre suggestions on our part, we were told that the breakwater between the moored boats and the beach at the Nordskot anchorage is for keeping ice off the boats in the spring ice breakup.

Approaches: Note that the varde at 67°51.3’ N, 14°47.3’ E has crumbled, making the approach from the N more difficult.

Anchorages, Moorings: A half mile across the sound to the SE from Naustholmen, the small bay off the village Nordskot provides an excellent scenic anchorage, sheltered except from the N, in 9.1 m charted depth, with good holding in firm sand. The substantial pontoon by the shop is available for visiting boats; however, it is exposed to N winds. The charge is 100kr/24hrs. There are 4 blue mooring buoys, with yellow pick ups, marked Guest Buoy; further details not known. There are several pleasant tiny sandy channels for anchorage Sof Grøtøya, notably near Andersøya at 67°49’ N, 14°44’ E.

For The Boat: Fuel is available from the shop during opening hours. Water and electricity are available on the pontoon.

For The Crew: There is a small well-stocked grocery store by the ferry pier Looking northeast across the and toilets and showers are available during shop opening hours. harbour at Nordskot from the hill on Grøtøya. Things To Do: At the SE side of Naustholmen lies a notable historic trading centre with a museum (closed in 2007). There is a small floating dock for access to the museum. There are fine views from the hilltop path and nature walks on Naustholmen. This is a good place to observe the midnight sun from your boat as there are no obstructing hills. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Looking east over the anchorage at Trolløya/Brennøya.

Trolløya/Brennøya 67°56.8’ N, 14°53’ E Approaches: You can approach from the N or the S as charted. Last Visited: 2006 Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 3 to 5 m depth in sand. As swinging room is limited, you will either need to use 2 anchors or run lines to the shore.

Røssøya (SW Engeløya) 67°55.1’ N, 14°56’ E This is a small harbour in the skerries. Last Visited: 2009 Charts: 67, 68 Anchorages, Moorings: Visitors can moor alongside the pontoon inside HG: Vol. 4: Røssøya the mole, marked Gjesteplasser. The charge is 150kr/24hrs. There are numerous anchoring possibilities in the sandy-bottomed waters among the nearby skerries. In fair weather it is pleasant to anchor between Flatøya and lille Flatøya, 3.7 miles to the W, and explore the abandoned lighthouse facility.

For The Crew: There are toilets and showers available.

Things To Do: You can rent bicycles to visit the historical sites in the area: ȘȘ Steigen Kirke (a church from the Middle Ages) and the Steigen Museum are located on the SW side of Engeløya. ȘȘ The Løvøy Old Commercial Center has guided tours including a nature walk, located on Løvøy, just to the W of Røssøya. For more information on sites in the area, see www.steigen.kommune. no (in Norwegian only).

Tørrisneset 67°54.05’ N, 15°06.2’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There is good swing room and holding in 12 m Last Visited: 2006 depth in this large bay. Chart: 68

Bogen (Flagsundet) 67°54’ N, 15°11.6’ E Approaches: If approaching from the W, turn S just E of the bridge (Den Last Visited: 2009 Norske Los reports a vertical clearance of 25 m, though a local ferry captain Chart: 68 reported it as 23 m) between the mainland and Engeløya. Pass E of the HG: Vol. 4: Bogen i Steigen beacon (G Fl lt) and W of the red buoy. There is 5 m depth in the approaches. (Note that the beacon and buoy are not primarily intended as markers Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten to Bogen harbour, hence the colour scheme appears to be the wrong way around for the approach.) If approaching from the E, stay in deep water N along Oterodden.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are two pontoons: ȘȘ Smaller visiting boats may moor at the end of the outer pontoon where there is 5 m depth, or enquire about vacant finger berths. There is limited space for manoeuvering inside the first pontoon. ȘȘ Larger boats may moor alongside the old ferry jetty, where it is deep on both sides but with limited room for manoeuvring on the inside. The charge is 70kr/night. There is an honesty box on the wall of the Bogenes Båtforening clubhouse. The large dock with tyres is used by the express boat.

For The Boat: There is water on the pontoon and electricity is available upon request.

For The Crew: Groceries are available up the road. Toilets and showers are available at the pontoon.

Things To Do: For an idea of how SW winter gales funnel fierce gusts down over the village, have a look at the way the old wooden church is construct- ed: The roof on the SW wall is firmly attached to the ground with solid rod tie bars! They occasionally have live music in the pub in the old butchery on the docks, open weekends only.

Ankersvågen (SE Engeløya) 67°55’ N, 15°14.5’ E This peaceful anchorage is located in pastoral surroundings with bell-be- Last Visited: 2007 decked sheep tinkling their way over the grassy slopes. Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor well into the cove in 14 m depth with good swinging room and good shelter in this very spacious anchorage.

Looking west over S/V Drott II anchored at Trollvika, with Engeløya in the background (next page). Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Røtnesvågen (NE Engeløya) 67°56’ N, 15°16’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding in this anchorage open to Last Visited: 2003 the NE but otherwise sheltered. Chart: 68

Hakvåg (NE Engeløya) 67°56.65’ N, 15°14.6’ E While Hakvåg may not have the beauty of the anchorages on Lundøya and Last Visited: 2009 Hamarøya, it is accessible in all weather conditions; however, the increas- Chart: 68 ing number of private moorings make this a less desirable anchorage than previously.

Approaches: From Skagstadsundet, pass W of the perch on Oddskjæret and E of the next perch. Both perches have pointers. When passing through the narrow final part of the approach, keep to the S. You will find deeper water there than the charted 2 m.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 7 to 8 m depth N in the bay and E of the permanent moorings. The holding is good but the moorings are encroach- ing on the anchoring space; you will probably need to run lines ashore.

Trollvika (SW Lundøya) 67°58.5’ N, 15°10.7’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This anchorage in stunning surroundings is shel- Last Visited: 2008 tered from the north and east. Chart: 68

Skarsvåg (SW Lundøya) 67°58.1’ N, 15°12.5’ E Note the 12 m high overhead cable at the head of the anchorage. Last Visited: 1996 Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: This is a quiet and very pleasant wild anchorage HG: Vol. 4: Skarsvåg in 7 m depth, sand bottom, well sheltered. Two anchors, or lines ashore, might be required with changing wind direction. The cove charted as an anchorage S of Alsvikskjær, 0.8 miles WNW, is an attractive wild anchorage in 5 to 10 m depth, sand bottom, well sheltered except from the SSW.

Oksøysundet (SE Lundøya) 67°58’ N, 15°18’ E Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the E entrance to the Oksøysund. There Last Visited: 2003 is good holding in settled weather. Keep a good watch for fish farm cables. Chart: 68 From offshore, looking southwest at Tranøya Lighthouse and the mountains of Hamarøya. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Hamarøya Note that although Hamarøya is called an island (øya), it is actually a pen- insula.

Skutvika (SW Hamarøya) 68°01’ N, 15°20.5’ E Skutvika is a major ferry port. Last Visited: 2009 Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: There is a visitors’ pontoon inside the mole har- HG: Vol. 4: Skutvik bour, between the RoRo and the fast ferry berths (2 mustard-coloured buildings). The pontoon is exposed to winds from the S and the cost is 50kr/24hrs.

It is also possible to anchor in good depth inside the moles, N of the inner green spar buoy.

For The Boat: The Statoil bunkering point is on the pontoon by the conspicuous three-story warehouse building. Electricity is available on the pontoon for a charge of 50kr/day.

Things To Do: You can take a bus to the Knut Hamsun Visitor Centre at Oppeid, on the E side of Hamarøya.

S/V Drott II anchored at Dalsvær, looking west, with Lofoten in the far right background.

Dalsvær 68°04.5’ N, 15°19.5’ E This is a very scenic anchorage, nested between two high steep mountains. Last Visited: 2008 The surrounding terrain would suggest that it is subject to heavy gusting in Chart: 68 strong winds.

Approaches: Approaching this anchorage would not be advisable in strong

SW to W winds as the approaches are very narrow. There is a charted 3 Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten m bar at the entrance to the anchorage. The deepest point on the bar is halfway between the first of the two inner beacons and the small island to its W.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 9 m depth with good holding in mud and sand in the pool by the second of the two inner beacons.

Straumhamn (NW Hamarøya) 68°06.4’ N, 15°22.6’ E Nestled in a small fjord at the foot of Hamarøya’s crags are three picture- Last Visited: 2003 book anchorages, each unique. Note that strong unexpected fall-winds Chart: 68 may be experienced here at times. HG: Vol. 4: Straumhamn Approaches: Passing through the narrow entrance, keep to port to avoid the charted 2 m rock which will probably be visible in the clear water.

Anchorages, Moorings: These delightful choices unfold: ȘȘ To starboard just inside the narrow entrance lies a tiny cove edged with a white sand beach, with not quite sufficient depth to allow sheltering

as deeply into the cove as you might like, but sufficient for most summer weather, using shore lines and an anchor. ȘȘ A bit farther into the fjord there is a fine anchorage between a tiny rocky island and the nearby shore, with mooring bolts on each and a sandy shoal area nearby for an anchor if desired. ȘȘ Continuing further in at well over half-tide and sounding carefully, crossing the sandy shoal brings you into a small deep pool ideal for an anchor on the shoal and lines ashore to trees. A small cascade empties into this pool, and a short portage with the dinghy brings you to a beautiful freshwater lake at the foot of the mountains. Looking east over a sailboat laced into the entrance of the tiny cove at Straumhamn, just to starboard on entry into the fjord. The pool Things To Do: There is a nice hike on a small path described under the Straumhamn entry as a third possible anchorage, that starts at the beach on the other side of the is in the centre right of the photograph, behind the small hill, with the lake and passes S of Hamarøyskaftet to Sandheia fresh water lake at the foot of the large mountain. Entry into the fjord is (alt 375 m) with a beautiful view of the lake and to the left of the picture. Lofoten.

Bjørnvågen (NW Hamarøya) 68°08’ N, 15°24.4’ E Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 15 m depth with good holding in good Last Visited: 2007 shelter. Note that Den Norske Los reports poor holding in this anchorage. Chart: 68 Looking south-southeast towards the bottom of the bay at Hamsundpollen. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Hamsundpollen (N Hamarøya) 68°07’ N, 15°31’ E This is a pretty inland bay with an interesting entrance between islets. Last Visited: 2008 Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: Hamsundpollen is an excellent all-weather har- HG: Vol. 4: Hamsundpollen bour with many places to anchor. The holding is very good in hard clay. You can anchor in the 5 m deep pool near the end of the bay, row ashore, and then it is only a short walk to the museum in Hamsund.

Things To Do: Visit the home and museum of Nordland’s notable novelist, Knut Hamsun (Nobel Prize, 1920).

Tranøy 68°11’ N, 15°40.5’ E Tranøy is an old pilot station and trading post. Still a pilot station, Tranøy Last Visited: 2009 now attracts visitors because of its unique scenery, galleries, and links to Chart: 68 the author Knut Hamsun. Hamsun, who received the Nobel Literature HG: Vol. 4: Tranøy Prize in 1920, worked in the local shop as a young man and his time on Hamarøya is said to be reflected in some of his books. Though his work continues to be widely read and much-loved, many Norwegians have an ambivalent relationship to him due to his affiliation with the occupying forces during WWII.

Approaches: Approach from the N, passing E of Svartskjæret light, then head W for the harbour. Pass N of the wavebreaker, which has a white light on its N end.

Anchorages, Moorings: Moor alongside the pontoons or to the wharf with vertical wooden slats. The charge is 100kr/24hrs. The harbour is open to winds from SE through NE.

Looking east over the pontoons For The Crew: All amenities are available in the season in an old whaling at Tranøy. ship onshore.

Things To Do: There is a pleasant walk to the picturesque lighthouse two miles W, which is reached by a long board walk. Or you can walk to the pilot look out station for panoramic views of the Lofoten island chain and Vestfjorden. There are several art galleries to visit and a pub in the whaling ship at Tranøy. A visitors’ centre opened at Oppeid, 15 kms from Tranøy, in the summer of 2009, for the 150th anniversary of Knut Hamsun’s birth. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Looking north from the visitors’ pontoon at Tranøy, which runs parallel to the wooden dock shown in the photo. It may also be possible to tie up alongside the wooden wharf shown here.

Sommarselvågen 68°10.05’ N, 15°43.0’ E Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 15 m depth in the centre of the bay in Last Visited: 2007 good shelter and holding. There is a pontoon that welcomes visiting boats; Chart: 68 however, the gate was locked when one contributor visited, requiring some scrambling to get to land.

Things To Do: There is pleasant walking in the area.

Presteidvika (N Litleøy) 68°6.5’ N, 15°38.5’ E Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor N of Litleøy in 10 m depth where there is Last Visited: 2003 good holding and shelter except in E winds. Chart: 68 Things To Do: There are nice walks N of the anchorage.

Hamarøya to Tysfjorden

Tannøyvågen (E Tannøy) 68°09.3’ N, 15°45.5’ E The farmhouses surrounding the anchorage are now used only in the sum- Last Visited: 2006 mer. Chart: 68 Anchorages, Moorings: This is a very sheltered anchorage with good holding. As the swinging room is limited, lines ashore are required.

Things To Do: Behind the farm to the SW there is a trail through the woods that leads to a small old water mill which has been nicely rebuilt. Tysfjorden At the E end of the Vestfjord, the six fingers of the Tysfjord penetrate far into the rugged mountains almost to Sweden. All of the branches would be considered scenic anywhere and several are outstanding even in this area of superlatives. We spent two weeks here in early October. The mountains towering directly out of the fjord, with their lower slopes carpeted with trees dressed in the riotous colours of fall, and their peaks dusted with snow, all bathed in the long golden light of autumn, were truly breathtak- ing—hard on our supply of film too. All of the islands and river outlets in the Tysfjord are part of the Bekkensholm National Park. In late October the outer Tysfjord and outer Ofotfjord (north of the Tysfjord) are visited by spekkhoggere (orca/killer whales), which follow the herring in from the Atlantic. Unfortunately, a Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten decrease in the amount of herring in recent years has meant a concomitant decrease in the number of orcas that are coming into the fjord. The harbours and anchorages below are listed starting from the S and Fall colours in the Tysfjord. working counter-clockwise around the arms of the fjord.

Korsnes (NW Tysfjorden) 68°15.1’ N, 16°03.7’ E Anchorages, Moorings: To the W at the entrance to the Tysfjord, Korsnes Last Visited: 1996 is a small very sheltered mole harbour with several pontoons and quays. Charts: 69, 230 Use the S pontoon as there is an overhead cable at the N. HG: Vol. 4: Korsnes Things To Do: One km S is a short trail leading to one of Norway’s notable areas of rock carvings.

Botnøya (NE) (NW Beitsfjorden) 68°12’ N, 16°05’ E This is a pleasant harbour with access to the remainder of the Tysfjord. Last Visited: 2007 Charts: 68, 230 Approaches: There are leading marks in the approach to the anchorage. HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Storjorda

Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor off the NE side of Botnøya with very good holding. We do not recommend the charted anchorage at Storvika, 1 nm to the S, as it is too deep further out and if you go into shal- lower depths, there is an uncharted submerged pipe at 5 m depth and a number of old ropes running along the bottom. It may be possible to go alongside pontoons in Storjorda, .5 nm SW.

For The Crew: There are shops, phones and a P.O. within 2 km to the W.

Things To Do: There is an interesting walk across a ridge to Tiltsvika.

Beitsfjorden (SE) 68°11.5’ N, 16°06.5’ E Approaches: Give the rocks and the small island to port a wide berth on Last Visited: 2007 entering the anchorage. Charts: 68, 230 Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding in 5 to 8 m depth with good swing room. You could run lines to trees on shore if you wished.

Hellemobotn (Hellemofjorden) 67°49.1’ N, 16°30.1’ E This is a small summer Last Visited: 2003 community and the Chart: 230 (inset) start of one of the most spectacular hikes we have ever been on. Looking northwest out the Hellemofjord from a short way Anchorages, Moor along the walk to Sweden from ings: Beware, the un- Hellemobotn. The anchorage at derwater cables are Nordbukta is behind the cliff in not where they are the right background. charted, at least on older charts, and in

fact lie across the only Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten spot shallow enough for anchoring. It is possible to take a ferry from Kjøpsvik to Hellemobotn in summer. We found that the best bet off- season was to anchor at Nordbukta, to the NW, and take the dinghy for the three-mile ride to Hellemobotn.

Things To Do: The 8.5 km (each way) hike from Hellemobotn to the border with Sweden was the most stunning of our two years in Norway, although fairly challenging. After completing this hike you can wow your non-Nor- wegian friends by stating that you crossed Norway on foot. There is also a spectacular waterfall to visit. For more information visit the Hellemobotn web site at http://home.c2i.net/ktjihkko/index2.htm.

Tømmervika (NE Hellemofjorden) 67°59.1’ N, 16°16.6 E Anchorages, Moorings: Tømmervika is a pretty anchorage open to the Last Visited: 2007 NW but with good holding in sand in 10 to 14 m depth. Chart: 230 (inset) The mountain scenery around Indre Musken, 67°53’ N, 16°13’ E, is su- HG: Vol. 4: Tømmervika perb but there is no protected anchorage there.

Kjerrvika (Grunnfjorden) 68°00.4’ N, 16°20.1’ E Grunnfjorden is pleasantly scenic. Last Visited: 2007 Chart: 230 (inset) Anchorages, Moorings: Kjerrvika is a pleasant anchorage with swinging HG: Vol. 4: Kjerrvika room, somewhat open to the NW. In 1996 one contributor anchored in 6 m with good holding in sand. In 2007 another contributor anchored in 4 m on rock with doubtful holding in the centre of the cove between the entrance and the mooring field. He also reports a drying rock on the midline of the cove, just inside the moorings. Eidvik, just to the SW, is a very well sheltered anchorage, but requires anchoring in 25 m depth. Anchoring at Grunnfjordbotn would be in 20 m of water.

Ørnes (SE Mannfjorden) 67°58.5’ N, 16°31’ E Ørnes is a small cove at the end of a stunningly scenic fjord. There are a few Last Visited: 2003 summer houses scattered around the river mouth. Chart: 230 (inset) HG: Vol. 4: Ørnes Anchorages, Moorings: This is a protected, very pretty cove anchorage with a sand bottom, although deep. The holding is good but very strong fall-winds can occur with E winds; all you need to do is look around at some of the flattened trees for confirmation of this warning.

Things To Do: This is a good base for the steep hike up the S shoulder of the handsome granite Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten peak Multind which rises 853 m overhead. There is a much less strenuous walk that starts behind the houses and leads to a pretty little mountain lake.

S/V Morgan’s Cloud at anchor at Ørnes in the fall.

Kjøpsvik (central Tysfjorden) 68°05.6’ N, 16°21.6’ E This is a pretty village on a handsome wooded slope. During approach the Last Visited: 2003 ambience is marred by the huge cement plant; however, once ashore the Chart: 230 plant is invisible behind a hill. HG: Vol. 4: Kjøpsvik Anchorages, Moorings: The harbour has several quays and large pontoons as well as finger pontoons. In a strong S wind, you will want to be on the inside of the pontoons. Sørfjorden and Holmen offer pleasant and moderately scenic (but rather deep) anchorages in the Indre Tysfjord to the E.

Stefjordbotn (SE Stefjorden) 68°11’ N, 16°36.2’ E This exceptionally spectacular anchorage is at the foot of the NW face of Last Visited: 2008 the 1391 m high Stetind (the Anvil of the Gods), a beautiful chisel-shaped Chart: 230 peak visible from many miles away. The summit appears to loom overhead HG: Vol. 4: Stefjordbotn at 70°, although the actual rise is only 43°. There are a dozen houses at the end of the fjord.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the end of the fjord in sand in 10 to 15 m depth.

Stetind (Anvil of the Gods) looms over the Stefjord.

Looking south-southwest at S/V Drott II anchored below Stetind at Stefjordbotn.

Things To Do: Climbing Stetind is out of reach for the average cruiser; it is, however, a much desired climb for experienced mountaineers. The summit frustrated experienced climbers for decades, the first ascent being in 1910. William C. Slingsby, famous for his many pioneering climbs on the W coast, claimed it to be ‘the ugliest mountain I ever saw.’ Needless to say he never made it to the top! Andy Hyslop and Jonathan Lagoe have written a mini-guide (in English)

on the most popular route, called Stetind South Pillar, which can be down- Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten loaded from www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=49 for no charge. In a much publicized competition on Norway’s public radio (P1) in 2002, Stetind was voted National Mountain of Norway.

Sildpollen (NE Stefjorden) 68°14.1’ N, 16°27.6’ E This is a superlatively beautiful wild anchorage surrounded on three sides Last Visited: 2007 by huge granite walls, with forests and a stream; however, one contributor Chart: 230 reports that with the cloud base lower than the mountain tops it was rather like being anchored inside a grey bowl with the lid on! Den Norske Los warns of severe gusting in strong winds from any direction.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the head of the bay in 8 to 10 m depth in sand and mud with good holding off the small sandy beach to the W of the rock shown on the chart. The beach on the E is steep-to.

Vallebukta (NW Efjorden) 68°19’ N, 16°15.4’ E The beautifully scenic Efjord cuts deeply SE into the mountains at the en- Last Visited: 2009 trance to the Ofotfjord. Chart: 230 HG: Vol. 4: Ungsmaløya Anchorages, Moorings: Vallebukta, a lovely anchorage with fine views, is located on the starboard hand when entering the mouth of the fjord. It is possible to anchor either to the N or S of the little island, depending on the wind direction. There are 3 helpful uncharted perches at the N entry to the bay. There is also a pleasant scenic anchorage in 15 m depth, .25 nm W of the 25 m high overhead cable between Straumøya and Hestneset, at 68°20’ N, 16°14’ E, at the entrance to the Efjord. The remainder of the Efjord is quite scenic, with a reasonable fair-weather anchorage at the end.

Looking northeast over the an- Things To Do: The hike to the top of Valletinden (alt 833 m), the mountain chorage at Vallebukta, with the SW of the Vallebukta anchorage, is well worth the effort. The gradient is small island of Ungsmaløya in the moderate, the views from the top are superb, and with good visibility you front centre of the photograph. can see Værøy, 89 nm away.

Teppkilen (NW Efjorden) 68°18.15’ N, 16°21.35’ E This lovely side-arm to Efjorden is too deep for anchoring but the rock face Last Visited: 2009 N in the bay is well suited for mooring alongside. Chart: 230 Note that the charted 16 m high cable across the entrance to Efjorden, E of Straumøya, is now sign posted as 22 m. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Approaches: While Den Norske Los advises that Teppkilen should only be entered with local knowledge, the approach is actually quite straight forward even with the 1:80,000 chart 230. Keep well off Teppkilneset to avoid the charted submerged rocks; staying slightly W of the middle of the approach will keep you in 5 m of water.

Anchorages, Moorings: Pass the second headland to port to enter Teppkilen proper. Immediately to port there is then a vertical rock face low enough for scrambling ashore and with suitable trees for tying shorelines to—leaving enough slack in your lines for the 2 m tidal difference.

Skarstad 68°21.8’ N, 16°16.5’ E Skarstad is a small, pleasant, well-sheltered mole harbour. Last Visited: 2009 Chart: 230 Approaches: From the N (Ofotfjorden), pass W of the perch then into the mole harbour. From the SW, in daylight only, pass through the scenic winding passage S of Barøya and Revelsøya, under the 22 m overhead cable SE of Revelsøya.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a 30 m long pontoon with 2.5 m depth alongside. The charge is 30kr/24 hrs. There is also a council dock, intended for short stays only.

For The Boat: Electricity is available on the pontoon for an extra charge.

Things To Do: Walk to the sculpture “Heaven on Earth” along the shore, 1 km NE, which is part of the art project “Skulpturlandskap Nordland”.

Kjeldebotn 68°24.5’ N, 16°40.4’ E This is a useful stop on passage up the Ofotfjord, though open to the N. Last Visited: 2009 Chart: 230 Approaches: Pass between the green and red perches and W of Kjeldebotn light.

Anchorages, Moorings: The visitors’ pontoon is located N of the new mole, S of the large dock with a café. The depth alongside is > 3 m, but the pontoon is rough and appears old. Smaller boats could enquire about a vacant fingerberth in the mole harbour. The charge is 50kr/24hrs.

For The Boat: Electricity is available for those with long extension cords.

For The Crew: There is a shop with P.O. (The shop was looking for a new proprietor in the autumn of 2009 and its future appears uncertain.) There is a shuttle boat to the airport at Evenes.

Things To Do: There is a café on the docks.

Ballangen 68°20.7’ N, 16°52.8’ E Ballangen is not a scenic anchorage as it is dominated by the quarry and Last Visited: 2009 the large dock associated with this. There are no particular attractions

Chart: 230 ashore and the docks are either private or in poor repair or have very little Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten depth alongside. We no longer recommend this anchorage.

Sør-Skjomen or Hallarvika (Skjomenfjorden) 68°11.8’ N, 17°19.5’ E This is a superbly sce- Last Visited: 2009 nic fjord. When an- Chart: 230 chored at the end we felt as if we had been magically transported to some high alpine lake. Be aware that in The cove Hallarvika at the end strong SE and ESE of Sør-Skjomen, an arm of the winds, the Skjomen Skjomenfjord, looking southwest. fjord can unexpect- edly send heavy blasts several miles out into the Ofotfjord.

Anchorages, Moorings: A very good anchorage is found at the bottom of the fjord but beware of the extremely sudden sand/mud shelf off the stream outlet and the underwater cables E in the fjord. The Frostisen Glacier lies just above the fjord and there is a charted anchorage just beneath it.

S/V Morgan’s Cloud is dwarfed by the mountains surrounding Skjomenfjorden.

Things To Do: There is excellent walking ashore up alongside the stream from the anchorage at the bottom of the fjord. This is also a popular starting-off point for back country hikers, with access to marked paths and a number of small self-serve cabins along the Norwegian/Swedish border. For more information see www.turistforeningen.no and search under Narvik.

Narvik 68°25.9’ N, 17°24.9’ E Narvik is a small city in attractive surroundings at the E end of the Ofotfjord, Last Visited: 2009 with two small boat harbours and a large commercial harbour. The city Charts: 230, 461 was established in the late 1800s as an ice-free port for shipping iron ore Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten HG: Vol. 4: Narvik from Kiruna, just across the Swedish border. Narvik was the scene of in- tense battles during the first weeks of WWII and the city was laid in ruins. Modern Narvik has a pleasant appearance and friendly atmosphere, may- be best known today for some of Northern Europe’s most dramatic hiking and skiing.

Anchorages, Moorings: ȘȘ Vassvika: This mole harbour lies N of the city and is well-protected though with very limited manoeuvering room inside. The visitors’ pontoon is the second pontoon to starboard (the first pontoon is for the fuel pump). Moor alongside the projecting pontoon, with depths of 1.5 to 2 m. The pontoon parallel with the shore has < 1 m depth in places. The charge is 100kr/24 hrs. For more information see http:// www.narvik-baatforening.no/. ȘȘ Ankenes: This well-protected mole harbour lies SW of the city. There is deep water between the mole heads marked with green and red perches. Moor at the fuel pontoon (straight ahead after entering between the mole heads) and enquire about a vacant fingerberth (Harbourmaster,

Tel.: +(47) 76 95 03 75/91 55 03 73). For more information, and a web camera, see www.ankenes-baatforening.no/. ȘȘ Larger boats should enquire with the harbour authorities about docking at a commercial wharf. Tel.: +(47) 76 95 03 70. Ask for the harbourmaster on duty (havnevakta).

For The Boat: Vasssvika has a fuel dock, which is quite shoal, so watch the tide. There is electricity on the pontoon at 50kr/day. Ankenes has a fuel dock.

For The Crew: Vassvika has a service building with toilet, shower and laundry facilities—enquire with locals about the entry code. There are all facilities in the city centre, a 10 minute walk from Vassvika and a bus ride from Ankenes (every 1/2 hour).

Things To Do: The Krigsminnemuseum and Ofoten museum both depict the fierce naval and land battles that took place in 1940. The chart shows numerous large-wreck symbols where warships still lie, and one can be seen at the surface in the Rombakfjord. There is a rock carving very close to the Vassvik harbour. It may be possible to take a cable car partway up Fagernesfjellet for great views. The day-return Ofotbanen rail trip from Narvik through the mountains to the Swedish border is an inexpensive and very scenic excursion. At Riksgränsen, a Swedish border town, you can visit Sven Hörnell’s Subartisk photograph gallery. It is also possible to walk back towards the coast on the Rallarveien trail from Riksgränsen, catching the train back to Narvik at several places along the way. A classic hike is the one from Bjørnfjell along the navvy road or mountain path to Kattarat to catch the afternoon train back to Narvik. (For the mountain trail you will want a map of the area— the spot where the trail from the mountain down to Kattarat deviates from

the main trail is poorly marked.) The weather can change quickly up here Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten so make sure to dress appropriately. To find out more about hikes in the Narvik region, visit www.narvikfjell.no (some English information).

Liland 68°28.6’ N, 16°53.5’ E On the N central shore Last Visited: 2007 of the Ofotfjord, Liland Chart: 230 is in a pretty farming HG: Vol. 4: Liland area offering a soft contrast to the crags of Lofoten.

Looking southeast across the Anchorages, Moor Ofotfjord to the mountains ings: There are excel- behind Skjomenfjord with the lent guest pontoons guest pontoon at Liland in the for small boats or foreground. larger boats in settled weather.

Bogen, 3 miles NE, has an old wooden quay at which it is possible to dry on the tide for scrubbing; this will greatly interest the local residents as this operation is virtually unknown in Norway. A scenic anchorage (especially useful when the pontoon is bumpy) is found in the Øysund just NE of Liland, with 4 m depth entering from the SW (stay NW of the channel midline in the area just NE of the wire); the overhead wire signposted at 15 m high appears to be 26 m as charted, but beware.

For The Boat: There is water, electricity and fuel now available on the guest pontoons in Liland.

For The Crew: There are showers at the clubhouse.

Things To Do: The Liland clubhouse provides a grille, BBQ and picnic ta- bles. Tjeldsundet and Ramsundet These sounds, separating Tjeldøya from Hinnøya, are quite interesting and 68°30’ N, 16°20’ E pleasant. The Tjeldsund is a major route between the Vestfjord and areas Charts: 77, 230 to the N. In the Ramsund, at the 19 m high bridge, the leading marks (both Den Norske Los, Vol. 6: Sketch ahead and behind) must be followed accurately, which can be difficult due maps of Ramsundet to the strong tidal streams. The strongest currents are reported at Sandtorgstraumen inthe Tjeldsund, where they run at up to 4 knots, with the N-going stronger than the S-going. The S-going current peaks 6 hours before HW Evenskjær; the N-going with peak flow at HW Evenskjær (HW Evenskjær is 5 minutes after HW Bodø). In S Tjeldsundet and in the Ramsund, the tide shifts approximately 1 hour before Sandtorgstraumen (source: Den Norske Los, Vol. 6, and The Naval School web pages). Note that although passage through the Ramsund is now allowed (older Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten charts prohibit entry to certain areas), you are not permitted to moor or anchor as there is a military base and training centre there. Likewise, fishing and diving are prohibited. Harbours further N in the Tjeldsund will be discussed in the next chapter.

Lødingen (S Tjeldsundet) 68°24.9’ N, 15°59.8’ E Lødingen is a pleasant town and a useful place to wait for suitable weather Last Visited: 2008 to cross the Vestfjord or for a favourable tide to pass through the Charts: 69, 230 Tjeldsund. HG: Vol. 4: Lødingen Approaches: Melkebukta, a fine small-boat harbour formed by moles at the E edge of town, is entered from the N between 2 lighted perches; dredging in 1995 deepened the entrance and the fueling area to over 2.5 m depth. The 15 m high overhead cable which once crossed the entrance has been removed.

Anchorages, Moorings: ȘȘ In Melkebukta, you can moor alongside finger piers attached to the pontoon against the S mole, past the pilot vessel and the diesel pontoon, clearly marked Gjestebrygge. We found 2.5 m depth at low tide alongside and the same in the approaches. ȘȘ Larger vessels will prefer to moor alongside one of the two 50 m long deep water pontoons outside the mole harbour, on the S side of the bay. Note that the S side of the S-most pontoon is used by the Narvik express boat once a day. These pontoons are exposed to the E. All pontoons are 50kr/day; use the honesty box.

Looking southeast over Lødingen from the mountain Boya.

For The Boat: Water is available on the pontoons in Melkebukta and electricity is available on all the pontoons at an extra charge of 15kr/day. Diesel is available near the pilot boat and from the chandlery at the head of the pontoon during normal business hours for cash or card. The marine supply shop has a good stock

of general boating gear. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

For The Crew: Toilets and showers are available in the red club house on Hjertholmen, next to Melkebukta. There is a medium-sized ICA supermarket close to the pontoons.

S/V Morgenstjernen alongside in Things To Do: There are cafés, restaurants and pubs in town and a BBQ Melkebukta harbour at Lødingen, facility on Hjertholmen, by the outdoor stage. Relics from its pilot history looking northeast. can be found at the old pilot station on Hjertholmen. There are fine mountain walks nearby, including up Boya for beautiful views of your boat in the harbour and of the surrounding area. Hinnøya and Adjacent Skerries On a moderate day, sailing through the intricate channels in the archipelago of small islands S of Hinnøya is pleasant, especially in a S wind when the area is nicely sheltered.

Slåtøya/Bukkøya 68°25.10’ N, 15°51.2’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There are a number of scenic sandy anchorages in Last Visited: 1996 between the skerries; select for wind direction. Chart: 69

Offersøya (S Hinnøya) 68°18.5’ N, 15°38.6’ E Approaches: The approach is due N between the islets, leaving a single Last Visited: 1996 perch to port. Chart: 69 Anchorages, Moorings: This is a moderately pleasant harbour with pontoons, likely to be bustling with campers and tourists at the small hotel. It may be rolly in SW winds.

Hegstadosen (S of Hinnøya) 68°19.6’ N, 15°32.5’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This is a scenic sheltered wild anchorage, with a Last Visited: 1996 sand bottom and good depth. Chart: 69

Svellingen 68°17.3’ N, 15°20.3’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There are several possible anchorages in the Last Visited: 2006 Svellingen area: Chart: 69 ȘȘ In the most attractive anchorage, almost a lagoon, you can tie between HG: Vol. 4: Svellingen the heart-shaped (or skull-shaped) island 1 cable in diameter (lying E of the centre of Lille Svellingen) and the tiny islet NW, at the position given. Entry can be made in good depth by heading SW from Lysøya Light, then turning N with Lille Svellingen to port and the heart-shaped island to starboard. Beware of the submerged mooring lines running from the small pontoon on the small island to the W across to the other side of the anchorage. ȘȘ Another fine anchorage lies .75 nm due N of the one just described, E of Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten a charted rock awash, entered heading ENE, at 68°18.07’ N, 15°20.2’ E. ȘȘ Another anchorage, at the W side of Store Svellingen, is well sheltered even in strong SW winds, but although it offers beautiful distant views, the anchorage itself is less attractive. Proceed S along the W side of Store Svellingen, leaving the 3 m sounding and tiny islet to starboard, then turn E between the two larger islands lying just W of Store Svellingen, then turn N into the diminishing channel. There is a small quay to port with 3.5 m depth, and lines can be taken to bolts on both shores. ȘȘ The anchorage charted SE of the NE-most point on Store Svellingen is frequently rocked by heavy wash from the catamaran coastal express which transits just .15 nm N at 38 knots; the effect can be minimized by pulling well in towards the bolt.

Risvær 68°16.3’ N, 15°07.5’ E This was once a major fishing port, but now only a few families live in this Last Visited: 1996 unique and interesting tiny summer community lining the narrow sound, Chart: 69 Kjeila, between Borterøya and Heimerøya. The least depth, 1.8 m, is not far HG: Vol. 4: Risvær inside the N entrance.

Anchorages, Moorings: The best quay for berthing is hard to port immediately after entering the sound from the N, at the SW tip of the quay. The pontoon at the N end of the sound has insufficient depth for a sailboat, but there are several new private pontoons serving holiday cottages which may be available with permission.

Steinsøya (Vestfjorden) 68°15.7’ N, 15°04’ E There are magnificent distant mountain views all around the horizon. Last Visited: 2007 Chart: 69 Anchorages, Moorings: There is a charming and well sheltered sandy- HG: Vol. 4: Steinsøya bottomed anchorage at the 4 m sounding E of Store Steinsøya. The NE entrance channel has more than the charted 2 m depth, but that to the S has less than the charted 2 m. A very strong current sluices through the anchorage at spring tides. It is also possible to anchor just N of the islands at 68°15.9’N, 15°04’ E, in 9 m depth with good holding in sand. Lofoten Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

A herring seiner at work in the Vestfjord.

Vestpollen (NW Øksfjorden) 68°30.9’ N, 15°32.7’ E Lying at the NW head of a very scenic fjord, this is an exceptionally beauti- Last Visited: 1996 ful and wild anchorage, with the summit of Møysalen soaring 1266 m up Chart: 69 (inset) from the end of the fjord. The cave Tyvhellar (Thieves’ Cave) at the N side HG: Vol. 4: Vestpollen of Tyvhellarneset (towards the end of the fjord and S of the 21 m sounding) is mentioned in the Viking sagas as the over-winter refuge of Sigurd Slembe, who mistakenly entered the Øksfjord thinking it was the Raftsund when fleeing his enemies. Note that there is a 15 m high overhead cable 3/4 of the way up the fjord.

Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor on the charted 3 m rocky and sandy shoal with good swinging room just E of Tyvhellarneset or on the rather narrow sandy shelf at the end of the fjord.

Kvannkjosen (SW Øksfjorden) 68°22’ N, 15°11’ E Near the entrance to the Øksfjord on the port hand, you can meander into Last Visited: 2006 this pretty, interesting and complex group of little coves and islets sur- Chart: 69 rounded by wooded hills, ideal for shore-side expeditions. HG: Vol. 4: Kvannkjosen Anchorages, Moorings: Some ingenuity with anchors and shore-lines might be required to feel secure in a heavy blow, but the area is extremely well sheltered. There is good swinging room, over a shell/mud bottom.

Looking west over a sailboat laced into the very snug little cove at the far southeast corner of the Kvannkjosen anchorage, with the entrance off the picture to the right.

Things To Do: There is a nice old trail that runs N from the village Kvannkjosen to Kongselva on the Raftsund. The trail can be intercepted by walking N up the right side of the little river that runs into the anchorage. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Some scrambling through the woods brings you to the trail.

Digermulen (SW Hinnøya) 68°18.2’ N, 14°59.9’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This small harbour has quays and a small pon- Last Visited: 2003 toon, or it is possible to anchor in settled weather. Chart: 69 In N winds, anchor SSE to the E of Bukkholmen, or 5 miles SSW at HG: Vol. 4: Digermulen Gullvika. An exceptionally scenic and well protected anchorage is found SE at Valen (it is reported that there is now 3 m depth where older charts show 1 m entering from the S, since it was dredged by resident whalers).

Things To Do: There is a well marked and maintained path to the top of Keiservarden (alt 388 m), which provides spectacular panoramic views and plaques commemorating the ascents made by the German Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1889 and 1903.

Tengelfjorden (SW Hinnøya) 68°25.4’ N, 15°09.30’ E This is a small enclosed cove NE in the Raftsund. Last Visited: 1996 Chart: 69 Approaches: Enter with great care and keep extremely close N of the perch HG: Vol. 4: Tengelfjord to stay in the best depth.

Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor or use a vacant mooring, with permission.

For The Crew: There is a shop.

Things To Do: There is a nice walk to the lake.

Ingelsfjorden (SW Hinnøya) 68°28.10’ N, 15°23.80’ E This wild and scenic fjord is located at the NE side of the Raftsund. Note Last Visited: 1996 the 21.5 m high overhead cable. Just S of the entrance to the fjord is the tiny Chart: 69 island Gunnar-skjåen, mentioned in the Viking sagas as a strategic lookout HG: Vol. 4: Innerfjorden point against potential enemies approaching in the Raftsund.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a fine anchorage charted just outside the overhead cable, S of Nesøya. You can also anchor at the end of the fjord at the waypoint given, possibly with a line ashore, but be sure the anchor is properly set as there is extensive weed on the bottom.

Things To Do: There is a fine walk E on a game trail to the Øksfjord.

Skipøyosen (E Brotøya) 68°29.1’ N, 15°12.0’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This is a scenic and convenient anchorage to wait Last Visited: 2005 for the S-flowing tide through the Raftsund. It is quite well sheltered, with Chart: 69 good swinging room in 8 m depth, sand bottom. A mile SW lies a larger but less idyllic anchorage, S of Hanøya. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Things To Do: Brotøya is very fine for walking, and there is a notable home bakery on one of the farms at Brotøen at the W of the island. There is a nice beach.

Grundfjorden (E Austvågøya) 68°23’ N, 15°00’ E This is an exceptionally beautiful wild anchorage just NE of the Trollfjord, Last Visited: 2003 with a lake just to the NW and a small herd of elk. Chart: 69 HG: Vol. 4: Grundfjorden Approaches: At mid- tide there is a uniform 2 m of water over the shoal at the entry; it would be prudent to proceed dead slow Looking south over a sailboat and on the rising tide laced into the tiny cove at unless near HW. Once Grundfjorden, with the entrance past the shoal there is through the channel shown on good depth, with shal- the right side of the photo. low areas as charted.

Anchorages, Moorings: You can moor very near the cascades at the N (in heavy rain the outflow creates a 5 knot side current), in the tiny cove straight ahead of the entrance channel, or at the SE; in all cases using shore lines and anchors. With gusting from the mountains, and limited room to manoeuver in, this fjord is not the best place to be in strong winds.

Things To Do: There are beautiful walks in this untouched valley, including to the lake Tverrdalsvatnan (alt 389 m).

Trollfjorden (E Austvågøya) 68°21.8’ N, 14°56.2’ E The scenery in the Raftsund, when approaching the Trollfjord, an impres- Last Visited: 2005 sively narrow fjord surrounded by sheer cliffs with snowy peaks, is excep- Chart: 69 tional. The coastal ships enter the Trollfjord every day and the very narrow HG: Vol. 4: Trollfjorden entrance with its high sides is shown off to best advantage when dwarfing a large ship!

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a short, verti- cally clad timber quay at the small hydro-electric station at the head of the fjord that could be used for a short stop. There is also a rickety pier opposite but it was occupied when one contributor visited, possibly by the operator of the small adjacent handicrafts business. For most cruisers, a visit to look around will be sufficient before going elsewhere to spend the night. Djuphavn, .5 nm S of the entrance to the Trollfjord, is a tiny crack-in-the-wall where you can tie between the N and S walls in a real mi- cro-harbour; beware the overhead cable.

The quay at Trollfjorden, a great Things To Do: You can walk up along, and in places onto, the hydroelectric place to start a walk. pipeline, and then bear left across a scree slope to a spectacular lake with Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten superb views well worth the strenuous effort.

Ulvågen (E Store Molla) 68°16.7’ N, 14°53.4’ E This is an exceptionally scenic wilderness an- Last Visited: 2003 chorage at the end of a small fjord. Chart: 69 Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding and shelter here in all but E winds. It is a good place when S winds make Gullvika uncomfort- able. Anchor in 15 m depth with 2 anchors as there is limited swing room. Watch the rocks to the N in the anchorage. There are several quays near the entrance to The snug anchorage at the head the fjord, in sheltered and pleasant surround- of Ulvågen has just enough room ings, where it may be possible to tie up. for a boat using two anchors or an anchor and a line to the shore.

Gullvika (SE Store Molla) 68°14.9’ N, 14°53.8’ E This is an exceptionally attractive and scenic anchorage, one of our favou- Last Visited: 2003 rites. Chart: 69 HG: Vol. 4: Gullvika Anchorages, Moorings: There is good swing room in the E cove in 4 to 9 m depth, sand bottom, with numerous mooring bolts around the edges of the cove. This cove is not sheltered in S winds. The W cove is sheltered from S winds, but there is a shoal between the coves that needs half-tide or better for passage. There are several other anchorages nearby: Mollgavlen, 4 miles NNE, is a sheltered and pleasant anchorage, with the entrance probably needing half-tide; Ulvågen, a couple of miles NNE; Krabvågen, 1.5 miles SSW, is a charming tiny cove with a sandy bottom in 3 m depth and with a small beach, somewhat exposed to the S.

The west cove at Gullvika as seen from just east of the entrance. Beware the uncharted shallows at the entrance that make an exploratory trip in the dinghy a good idea before entering on a rising tide.

Things To Do: There are good crops of blueberries on the NW side of the Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten W cove. There are walks along the old road, now a trail, to lakes to the N, and to the settlement of Brettesnes to the S.

Brettesnes (S Store Molla) 68°14’ N, 14°51.25 E The only shop closed a few years ago. Last Visited: 2006 Chart: 69 Anchorages, Moorings: There is a guest pontoon (depths alongside not known) and a quay with tires with a few places where the tires are lower and securing a yacht might be possible.

Things To Do: There is a lovely walk toGullvika .

Skrova 68°10’ N, 14°40’ E Last Visited: 2006 Chart: 73 HG: Vol. 4: Skrova

The harbour at Skrova with the mountains of Lofoten in the background as seen looking northwest from the highest point on the island. The harbour entrance is to the left.

Skrova is a large old well-sheltered whaling harbour 5 miles SE of Svolvær. Note that the cable to Skrova Light has been raised to 22 m clearance and the red spar buoy in the entrance is now a port-hand beacon.

Approaches: Enter from the SW.

Anchorages, Moorings: The floating docks are too small for a larger boat but there are many quays.

Phyllis collects shells on the Things To Do: There white sand beach at the end are great walks includ- of a walk on Skrova. This is a ing to a white sand scene that looks more like the beach on the other Caribbean than one nearly 200 side of the island and miles north of the Arctic Circle; up the mountain for however, a quick dip will correct fantastic views. There any geographical misconcep- is a pub with excellent tions. meals. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Fløtningsviken (E Austvågøya) 68°16.10’ N, 14°45.10’ E This is a good place to wait for the tide if heading N through the Last Visited: 1996 Raftsund. Chart: 73 HG: Vol. 4: Fløtnesvika Anchorages, Moorings: This is a very pretty anchorage N of Storøya.

Austnesfjorden (SE Austvågøya) 68°19.2’ N, 14°44’ E This is a pretty fjord just E of Svolvær, with very fine views of the high Last Visited: 1996 peaks toward the Trollfjord. There is a 16 m high overhead cable across Chart: 73 Østpollen. HG: Vol. 4: Sildpollneset Anchorages, Moorings: There is a possible anchorage at Langstrand and better still at Sildpollen. There are mooring buoys and bolts just outside Sildpollen and a good quay by the church. On the E shore near a stream there are ruined stone quays (with marginal depth) which make a very pleasant day stop. The head of the fjord has many pleasantly situated houses and anchoring possibilities.

Things To Do: A 3 km walk to yttersia (the outside of the islands) takes you to where fisherman used to haul their small boats across on the snow.

Svolvær (SE Austvågøya) 68°14’ N, 14°34.10’ E Svolvær is the ‘big city’ Last Visited: 2008 of Lofoten. Charts: 73, 462 HG: Vol. 4: Svolvær Anchorages, Moor ings: There are several options: ȘȘ There are guest pontoons with water and electri city in the main harbour. Depths The Fisherman’s Wife statue alongside the pon on the breakwater on the east toons are variable side of the entrance to Svolvær, and it is very makes a good landmark for the shallow (< 1.5 m) arriving mariner. at the N end of the inner pontoon. The charge is 110kr/day and there is an automatic machine that takes cash or credit cards. ȘȘ If they are full, it is possible to tie up to the large quays right next to the pontoons. ȘȘ There are wooden docks with vertical wooden slats on the N side of the island with the Anker and Rica Hotel establishment, past the dock with the sign fortøyning forbudt (no mooring). Close to the bridge there is only 1.5 m depth alongside. The charge is 100kr/day for boats under 60’, no facilities. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Looking southwest over the harbour at Svolvær, taken from Svolværgeita (Svolværgoat). The anchorage described is just off the photograph to the left and the Marinepollen pontoons are in the right centre. The docks by the Anker and Rica Hotel are on the small island with the red buildings in the middle of the bridge to the left centre. The official guest pontoons are closer to the harbour entrance, which is shown on the top left.

ȘȘ The Marinepollen boat-club pontoons in the NW part of the harbour are quieter and more scenic but less central. With a tall mast, the 14.8 m high bridge on the way to Marinepollen must be bypassed. Moor at the outermost finger berth or in a vacant berth. The gates lock at night and you will need a dinghy. The charge is 60kr/day. These pontoons are not suitable for large boats in strong winds. ȘȘ It is possible to anchor E of the Marinepollen boat-club pontoons in the bay under the twin-peaked rock spire, Svolværgeita, in 10.8 m depth, firm alluvial mud, with good holding, at the charted anchor sign, inside the bridge.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available at the pontoons in the town centre. Water is available on the Marinepollen boatclub pontoons and diesel is available at Statoil in Marinepollen N in the harbour, N of the bridge. They take cash or credit card and are open 0730 to 2400. Fuel is also available at Osan, not far to the W. The wooden wharfs on the north side of Lamholmen, the island For The Crew: It is possible to do laundry at the marine service station by connected by a short bridge to the campgrounds (we traveled back and forth by dinghy) and showers are the town of Svolvær with the available at the Havly Hotel. There are a wide range of shops. large Rica Hotel on it. Not to be confused with the larger island Things To Do: There is a very scenic but steep and strenuous path that climbs Kjeøya that is also joined by a to the base of Svolværgeita (Svolvær goat). At 569 m high, Svolværgeita is a bridge and makes up the east rock spire with twin summits overlooking the city. Among rock climbers, side of the harbour. it is the thing to jump between these two summits, over hundreds of feet of open air. Needless to say, we did not try this! A less strenuous hike is up the Tjeldbergtind (alt 367 m) for nice views of Svolvær and the coast. There is a small airport nearby and seaplane sightseeing flights may be arranged from the harbour. There are museums, art galleries and a fine old Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten church.

Kabelvåg (SE Austvågøya) 68°12.6’ N, 14°29.2’ E Anchorages, Moorings: There are two new 30 m long pontoons, built after Last Visited: 2006 a winter gale did damage to the old pontoon. The charge is 100kr/day. Chart: 73 HG: Vol. 4: Kabelvåg

The floating dock at Kabelvåg looking west.

For The Crew: There are toilets in the pub.

Things To Do: The Vågan Kirke (The Lofoten Cathedral), built to serve the large winter fishing fleet with seating for more than 1000 people, is worth a visit. It is a nice walk to the museum, gallery and aquarium at Nyvågar.

Nyvågar or Storvågen (SE Austvågøya) 68°12.45’ N, 14°26.2’ E The chart refers to this harbour as Storvågen while the local name is Last Visited: 2006 Nyvågar. Chart: 73 This is a quality tourist development, with many modern rorbuer (fish- HG: Vol. 4: Nyvågar ing huts, rented to tourists).

Approaches: Nyvågar is tucked in a small channel on SE Austvågøya, with the entrance between Sagøya and Reksteinen. Identify the perch with green markings 0.5 nm NE of Sagø light. Pass N of this perch. Go past the yellow hotel building and red service house; the pontoons will appear as you enter the bay. Severe swells enter in strong SW winds and in winter storms the tide has been known to cover the restaurant floor!

Anchorages, Moorings: The quay at the restaurant deck is shallow as well as very public. There are extensive pontoons by the tourist lodgings at Nyvågar Rorbuer: 8 and 10 m long finger berths with depths ranging from 1 to 3 m. The management can provide an aerial photograph with the depths shown at all the berths. The charge is 135kr/day.

For The Boat: There is electricity on the Nyvågar Rorbuer pontoons.

For The Crew: There are toilets, showers, and a sauna at Nyvågar Rorbuer. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Approaches to Nyvågar or Storvågen.

Things To Do: There is a restaurant and pub, an aquarium and the Lofoten museum. In the Galleri Espolin, life from earlier days in Lofoten is compel- lingly depicted in the works of notable artist Kåre Espolin Johnson. Some information is available in English at www.storvagan.no. Kabelvåg is easily visited via a short walk from Nyvågar.

Ørsvåg 68°12.38’ N, 14°24.29’ E Den Norske Los describes Ørsvåg as one of Lofoten’s best harbours with Last Visited: 2006 good protection in all weather. It is home to the Lofoten Tourist and Rorbu Chart: 73 Center, which has many services and facilities.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding with lots of swinging room.

Henningsvær 68°09.3’ N, 14°12.4’ E Perhaps the best Last Visited: 2006 known of Lofo ten’s Chart: 73 fishing harbours, HG: Vol. 4: Henningsvær Henningsvær, known locally as “The Venice of the North”, is a gem. A group of small is- A fishing boat alongside the lands connected by small community dock in moles forms the har- Henningsvær, looking northeast. bour, situated at the foot of high craggy mountains.

Approaches: Entrance from the W is under an 18 m high bridge; from the E there is no height restriction. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

The harbour at Henningsvær in silver evening light looking south from the top of Festrågtind, the mountain just across the bridge on the mainland.

Anchorages, Moorings: There seem to be miles of quays at which to berth; seeing Henningsvær in the summer, you can hardly imagine that in the winter fishing season the harbour is likely to be filled wall-to-wall with hundreds of fishing boats. ȘȘ There is a pontoon/dock outside the Henningsvær Bryggehotel with 2 m depth on the outside of the pontoon, 0.5 to 1.5 m depth on the inside. The charge is 60 to 120kr/day depending on the size of your boat. ȘȘ There is a pontoon outside the Fiskekrogan restaurant but there are railroad ties sticking out at low tide. With a bit of work it is possible to manoeuvre around them. The charge is 60 to 120kr/day depending on the size of your boat.

ȘȘ The official guest dock is on the council pontoon S in the harbour by the largest mole. The charge is 110kr/day.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available at all the pontoons. Diesel is available at the Esso by the mole S in the harbour. They are open 0800 to 1530 and take cash only. Access to their pump is somewhat limited due to moored boats.

For The Crew: Toilet facilities are of varying quality. Those at the council pontoon are very basic, while the Henningsvær Bryggehotel offers toilets, showers and a sauna. WiFi is available at the hotel (if moored there they Pontoon at the Henningsvær will give you the password in reception); however, WiFi coverage at the Bryggehotell. pontoon is limited.

Things To Do: The Galleri Karl Erik Harr painting and photography museum is excellent. A walk up to the Nordland boat monument by the bridge, or onto the bridge itself, provides superb views, as does a walk out to the lighthouses on the cliffs to the S. There is a very challenging but worth- while hike up Festrågtind, the mountain on the mainland just to the N of town (alt 541 m). Henningsvær is home to Nordnorsk Klatreskole, the climbing school of N Norway, which offers courses and guided climbs. Even if climbing is not your thing, their café is worth a visit. Henningsvær has a range of small cafés.

Laukvik or Laukvika (N Austvågøya) 68°23.3’ N, 14°24.7’ E Laukvik to locals and Laukvika to the chart makers, by either name this is Last Visited: 2006 a friendly fishing village located in the beautiful surroundings of the outer

Chart: 75 side of Austvågøya. You can get a marvelous view of the midnight sun from Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten here. Laukvik is planning continued improvements to their marina facilities both to promote use by visiting boats and for the convenience of the fishing fleet. For more information, visit http://www.laukvik-lofoten.no/. Looking northeast from an anchored boat, facing the new inner Approaches: Traveling E, pass S of the outer mole, then turn to the S and harbour at Laukvika. The harbour leave the inner mole to starboard. You will then see the new inner harbour entrance is off the photograph to ahead of you. the left and the guest pontoon is shown on the right of the photo- Anchorages, Moorings: Guest berths are in the new inner harbour in a graph, filled with fishing boats completely enclosed basin, dredged to 6 m depth. There is a small boat when this picture was taken. marina with a guest pontoon, opened in 2005. If there is no room on the

pontoons, there is plenty of swinging room to anchor in good holding or you can tie up alongside a fishing boat with permission.

For The Boat: There is electricity on the dock and they are planning to put water on the dock as well.

For The Crew: There is a general store and a snack shop. There is bus service to Svolvær, 35 km away.

Things To Do: There is a new community centre, a small museum and a Laukvik harbour from the air library. There is a community festival in early July. The scenic roads in the looking west. area are suitable for exploration on foot or by bicycle. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Borgvær (NW Vestvågøya) 68°19.8’ N, 13°48.5’ E This is an attractive anchorage on the Atlantic side of Vestvågøya, with an Last Visited: 1996 abandoned farm in an atmosphere of remoteness. Local sailors and fisher- Chart: 75 men often comment on how fine it is onyttersia (the outside of the islands) HG: Vol. 4: Borgvær but few pleasure boats venture over; this anchorage might be a good starting point.

Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor in 2.5 m depth, sand bottom, in the cove to the E, with a line ashore.

Stamsund (SE Vestvågøya) 68°07.5’ N, 13°51.1’ E Stamsund is a large old whaling harbour. Last Visited: 2003 Chart: 73 (inset) Approaches: Use the SW entrance if your boat has a tall mast since the SE HG: Vol. 4: Stamsund entrance has an overhead cable with 23 m clearance.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are guest pontoons in the S part of the harbour and good quays.

Things To Do: There is an interesting puppet shop and theatre, a gallery and a good pub and restaurant.

Æsøya (SE Vestvågøya) 68°06.2’ N, 13°48.4’ E This is an isolated, wild and beautiful anchorage. Last Visited: 1996 Charts: 72, 73 Anchorages, Moorings: The anchorage is in a tiny cove, in 2 to 3 m depth, HG: Vol. 4: Æsøya sand bottom, with bolts on shore. It is best used in settled weather.

Things To Do: A slightly difficult scramble to the top (well to the left of the beach, not behind it) offers exceptional views.

Leknes and Leknessjøen (SW Vestvågøya) 68°07.8’ N, 13°36’ E Leknes is the town located at the head of the harbour and Leknessjøen is Last Visited: 2007 the harbour area closer to the mouth of the inlet. Charts: 72 (inset), 74 The nearby small airport is reported as less likely to be fogged-in than the airport at Svolvær, making this a good place for crew changes.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a mole on your port hand side when entering the harbour that separates the commercial quay from the inner harbour and marina. It is possible to berth on either side of the 15 m long sturdy pontoon sticking out from the mole, with a depth of 4 m alongside at low tide and with very good shelter. The charge is 70kr/night, payable in an honesty box on the dock. The private pontoon berths in the marina are too small for boats larger than about 25 feet. There is no room to anchor in the inner harbour, even for a small boat. Gravdal, just over 1 nm to the SW and site of the regional hospital, has

more pontoons but is not as close to the airport. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

For The Crew: There are a variety of shops in Leknes.

Things To Do: It is possible to take a bus to the superb Viking museum at Borg.

Ballstad (SW Vestvågøya) 68°04.5’ N, 13°32’ E This is a scenic, complex and busy fishing harbour. Note that the charted Last Visited: 2006 overhead cable with 17 m clearance has been removed. Chart: 72 HG: Vol. 4: Ballstad Anchorages, Moorings: There are many quays in the inner harbour and a floating pontoon in the marina to port before you enter the inner harbour. The charge on the pontoon is 100kr/day.

For The Boat: There is electricity on the pontoon, a chandlery, a shipyard (adorned with Norway’s largest wall painting) and fuel.

For The Crew: There are shops.

Things To Do: There is a pub but it is a long walk or dinghy ride from the marina pontoon.

Straumøya (SE Flakstadøya) 68°03.8’ N, 13°23.7’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This is an attractive wild anchorage with an exten- Last Visited: 2003 sive area of 10 m depth for anchoring. There is a sand bottom and bolts on Chart: 72 shore; there are also a couple of small coves—one containing the wreck of HG: Vol. 4: Straumøya a large wooden boat—which may have suitable depth.

Things To Do: There is easy walking on the hills heading W, where you can find signs of cave dwellers.

Nusfjord (SE Flakstadøya) 68°01.9’ N, 13°21’ E This is a picturesque, compact and well-sheltered harbour with an easy Last Visited: 2007 entrance. Noted for its restored rorbuer, the entire settlement is now Chart: 72 owned by a private company and there are plans for a major facelift. Nus HG: Vol. 4: Nusfjord fjord made the national headlines in the summer of 2005 when the owners began charging an entrance fee to the village.

Looking east over the harbour at Nusfjord on a winter day. Entrance to the harbour and fjord is to the right of the picture. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a floating guest pontoon. The charge is 100kr/day. Some SW swell may roll in.

For The Boat: There is electricity on the pontoon.

For The Crew: There is a P.O., showers and laundry facilities in the season.

Things To Do: There is an old-time shop and café in the season and a beautiful 3 mile walk along the coast to the point, Nesland, to the SW.

Kunna 68°00.3’ N, 13°14.3’ E Anchorages, Moorings: This pleasant wild anchorage gives good views of Last Visited: 1996 the mountains. The cove is open to the NE, with anchorage in 9 m depth, Chart: 72 sand bottom. HG: Vol. 4: Kunna

Sund (SW Flakstadøya) 68°00.2’ N, 13°12.4’ E The charted 15 m high overhead cable has been removed. Last Visited: 2006 Chart: 72 Anchorages, Moorings: This is an attractive well-sheltered harbour at the HG: Vol. 4: Sund E side of the Sundstraum between Moskenesøya and Flakstadøya; the best quays for berthing are well inside on the port hand (but watch for fresh creosote on the decking).

Things To Do: At the museum you can watch the artistic blacksmith Tor- Vegard Mørkved as he forges a lump of red-hot iron into a beautiful statue. Or you can watch historic ‘tonka-tonka’ marine semi-diesels being hand- started.

Hamnøya (SE Moskenesøya) 67°57’ N, 13°08’ E Last Visited: 2006 Chart: 72 HG: Vol. 4: Hamnøya

The council pontoon at Hamnøya.

Approaches: Hamnøya lies inside an 18 m high bridge and the final perch in the narrow harbour entrance must be left to starboard in spite of any red reflecting tape on it.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are numerous quays available, including

a council pontoon with deep water on both sides, S in the harbour. The Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten charge is 60kr/day.

For The Boat: There is water on the council dock.

Things To Do: There is a doll museum and an excellent restaurant (Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu). The road between Hamnøya and Reine makes for a pleasant walk.

Kjerkfjorden (SE Moskenesøya) 67°59.5’ N, 13°01’ E Inside Reine and Hamnøya (and an 18 m high bridge), the island of Last Visited: 1996 Moskenesøya is cut nearly in two by a triple-pronged fjord, with the N Chart: 72 arm, the Kirkefjord, exceptionally scenic. The Selfjord (between Moskenesøya and Flakstadøya) is on the back-side of the spectacular scenery in the Kirkefjord, but a detour via the Sundstraum (bridge, 16 m clearance) will likely prove disappointing.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a fine quay at the very end of the Kirkefjord with a short dredged channel; either drop an anchor short of the quay, or be prepared to row one out if the wind comes up hard from the S.

It is also possible to swing at anchor and this is what you should do if you are planning to leave your boat unattended, in case the wind should come up while you are gone.

Things To Do: There is a fine walk NNW on a path over the saddle to an enormous Atlantic beach at Horseid.

Reine (SE Moskenesøya) 67°56’ N, 13°05’ E Voted by Norwegians Last Visited: 2006 as Norway’s most sce- Chart: 72 nic area, the harbour HG: Vol. 4: Reine of Reine is surrounded by looming spires and cliffs.

Approaches: Enter between the new mole with the lighthouse to port and Olnilsøya to starboard, then through a well marked, dredged channel into the inner harbour.

Anchorages, Moor ings: There are two pontoons for visiting boats: S/V Morgan’s Cloud at the ȘȘ There is a deepwater pontoon in the inner harbour visitors’ pontoon to at Reine. Reinebringen is in the port as you exit the background. Looking southwest. dredged channel, Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten outside the red shed, N of the small mole. The charge is 100kr/day. Pay at the reception desk of the Reine Rorbuer or in the Gammelbua pub. ȘȘ There is a visitors’ pontoon S of the small mole in the inner harbour. While this pontoon is new and appears well moored, the approach is less suited to deep keel vessels. You must pass W and S of numerous perches, which mark a large shallow area. The area is further marked by a rope with balloon fenders between two of the perches. At LW there is about 2 m depth in the approaches. The pontoon has 3 m depth alongside on the N side, but shallows rapidly towards the parallel S/V Morgan’s Cloud alongside the pontoon with visitors’ pontoon in the inner har- m o o r e d bour at Reine, looking northeast, motorboats. The S from the top of Reinebringen. side of the pontoon

has only 1.5 m depth alongside at LW, and rapidly shallows towards the shore parallel with the pontoon. The charge is 60kr/day.

The harbour at Reine lives up to its vote on a calm fall day. The floating dock in the inner harbour is just behind the closest point on the right. Looking north.

For The Boat: Water and diesel are available at the council pontoon. A chip-card for electricity N can be bought at Statoil on the dock. Electricity is also available on the deep water pontoon for a fee.

For The Crew: Toilets are available on the dock and at the restaurant. Fresh fish products are sold at a small shop on the docks and Statoil has a small kiosk on the dock. Groceries and a P.O. are in the shop on the other side of the harbour (about a 30 minute walk).

Visitors’ Pontoon Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Things To Do: Visitors’ Pontoon There is a steep but safe trail to With Fuel the top of Reinebringen, towering 615 m over-

3 head to the SW, from where there are breath- 15 taking views. There are also various trails to the 2 nearby lakes and valleys. You can take a ferry to Vindstad and then hike across to Bunes on the W

Map based onReine C-MAP cartography coast. For further information, have a look at the and a sketch by Hans Jakob Valderhaug Not for navigation. Moskenes and Flakstad municipalities’ comprehensive web page at www.lofoten-info.no and at local council information, including photos and a map, at www.reinehavn.no (both have links in English).

Moskenes (SE Moskenesøya) 67°54’ N, 13°02.5’ E Anchorages, Moorings: One contributor attempted to anchor in 10 m Last Visited: 2005 depth on the charted anchor symbol but couldn’t get the anchor to set. Charts: 71, 72 Then, when weighing the anchor, they hooked an uncharted, unmarked HG: Vol. 4: Moskenes electrical cable. They report that there were no other mooring possibilities in the harbour. A better option for visiting boats is Sørvågen.

Sørvågen (SE Moskenesøya) 67°53.35’ N, 13°01.7’ E While Moskenes is a ferry terminal with no facilities for visiting boats, Last Visited: 2006 Sørvågen is a scenic old fishing harbour, immediately S of Moskenes. Charts: 71, 72 HG: Vol. 4: Sørvågen Approaches: Enter between the mole heads.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a visitors’ pontoon immediately to starboard as you enter between the mole heads. The charge is 60kr/day. Alternatively, you can enquire about vacant docking space further in to the harbour.

The visitors’ pontoon at Sørvågen. The harbour entrance is to the left of the photograph.

For The Boat: Water is available on the pontoon.

Things To Do: The Mari Anna pub and restaurant has occasional live music. There are some lovely old wooden buildings and the Norwegian Telecom Museum is worth a visit: The wireless link between Sørvågen and Røst in Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten 1906 was the first in the country. Have a look at their web pages at www. lofoten-info.no/telemuseum (there is a link in English). There is a marked trail to the Norwegian Trekking Association (Den Norske Turistforening) cabin at Munkebu and on to Vindstad. Another possible excursion is to take the express boat to Forsfjorden (inland from Reine) in the morning and then walk inland back to Sørvågan. This hike will take you through some of the region’s most spectacular scenery. It is also possible to walk to Å.

Å (SE Moskenesøya) 67°52.9’ N, 12°59.6’ E This tiny ex-fishing harbour is at the end of the road near the end of the Last Visited: 2006 island, and is named simply with the end letter of the Norwegian alphabet. Charts: 71, 72 This notoriety, and the comprehensive museum, attract numerous caravan HG: Vol. 4: Å and bus tourists.

Anchorages, Moorings: Berthing is very limited, but you can probably lie alongside a tourist boat at the quay in front of the museum; it would be essential to check before leaving your boat unattended. The harbour is

not very well sheltered in strong winds between E and S. We recommend rather that you moor in Sørvågen and walk to Å.

Things To Do: You can visit the excellent Norsk Fiskeværsmuseum and Tørrfiskmuseum. There is a bakery, gallery and some nicely restored buildings.

Buvågen (S Moskenesøya) 67°50’ N, 12°49’ E Anchorages, Moorings: Buvågen is reported to be a good harbour with Last Visited: 1996 several large mooring buoys placed by fishing boats. Strong gusts occur in Charts: 71, 72 winds from the E. HG: Vol. 4: Buvågen Things To Do: There is a very steep trail with a fixed rope over the ridge- top and down to the cave by Refsvika.

Refsvika (SW Moskenesøya) 67°50.9’ N, 12°50.6’ E Refsvika is on the Atlantic side just around the SW tip of Moskenesøya. Last Visited: 1996 Charts: 71, 72 Approaches: During the early part of the approach, the set from the HG: Vol. 4: Refsvika Moskenstraum may require substantial compensation; the inner part of the approach is well marked but does require care.

Anchorages, Moorings: Refsvika is an especially attractive fair weather anchorage, with small beaches below towering cliffs (likely to give severe gusting in strong E winds).

Things To Do: Refsvikhule, a moderately interesting cave on the coast 1 km SW from the anchorage, is reached by a pleasant trail or a short dinghy A sailboat from Tromsø makes trip; there are said to be drawings 3000 years old on the cave walls, and landfall at Værøy on a passage bright flashlights would be useful in searching for them. from Reine. The view is of the There is a trail with a fixed rope that starts near the cave and crosses east coast of Værøy. over the ridge-top to Buvågen. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten

Værøy 67°39.2’ N, 12°42.8’ E Dutch friends of ours spent much of an early winter here in their motor- Last Visited: 2007 sailor and had a wonderful time until they were crowded out by the winter Chart: 71 cod fishery. HG: Vol. 4: Værøy Extensive dredging of the harbour is underway.

Anchorages, Moorings: This spectacular high island has a coastal plain to the SE with two long peninsulas; between them is the large harbour called Sørlandsvågen where there is a pontoon with room for two visiting boats NW in the harbour. There is no charge and no facilities. In 2003 we were able to tie to a private quay with permission. There may also be room to anchor between the many moorings. There is a small and rather picturesque fishing harbour just E of the main harbour but it is very crowded. In fine weather you can anchor off a popular beach just W of Sørland, or off the abandoned village Måstad further to the W.

For The Boat: Bunkeroil on the W side of Sørlandsvågen is a cheap place for diesel if you pay cash.

For The Crew: Showers are available at the Havly Fiskarheim (30 minute walk from the pontoon). Two grocery stores are open from 0900 to 1800, with a P.O. in the shop. There is ferry service toRøst and Bodø and a daily helicopter to Bodø.

Things To Do: There is a nice museum on the N coast. The Cornelius pub occasionally has live music. It is possible to scramble to the top of Måhornet (alt 445 m), which provides superb views. There are numerous other less challenging hikes to various bird colonies and to the abandoned village of Måstad. A dramatic inner channel lies close off the SW tip of the island, teeming with nesting birds early in the season, and culminating in a minuscule cove (immediately S of Elsneset Lighthouse), which can be entered by dinghy in very calm weather.

Røst (SE Røstøya) 67°30.45’ N, 12°04.5’ E Low-lying Røstøya, the outermost inhabited island in Lofoten, offers an Last Visited: 2006 unusual atmosphere of remoteness. The main harbour, Røst, lies between Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Chart: 70 the two narrow peninsulas opening SW. Note that dredging has taken HG: Vol. 4: Røst place in Røst in recent years. Two of the perches marked on the chart are gone. Likewise, the charted overhead cable has been removed. The ferry terminal is to be moved to the other side of the harbour and further dredging is planned. The owners of Ellefsnyken, Hernyken, Trenyken, Valvær, Eflateskjer, Storfjell, Stavøya and their associated skerries prohibit any interference with seabirds during their nesting season from April 15 to August 15.

The Røst council wharf, big enough to host a whole fleet of cruising boats.

Approaches: Several approaches are possible: ȘȘ From the S: Most vessels will prefer this approach through Ramskjærleia for a first time visit. There is a useful sketch in Den Norske Los, Vol. 5,

for the final part leading into the harbour NE of Glea. Note that two of the marked perches are gone due to recent dredging. ȘȘ From the E: On passage from Værøy in settled conditions the approach from the E through Blomskjærleia is feasible for boats with a draught < 2 m. In poor visibility Brattklakkleia, passing S of Brattklakkskallan, would be preferable, as Staven (alt 140 m) is a conspicuous landmark. The passage on from Brattskjæret Light is well marked and lovely. Note that you must pass S of Nordholmen and Sørholmen and then N of Lyngværøya. ȘȘ From the SW: The passage from Skomvær Lighthouse passing SE or NW of Vedøya is strewn with unmarked hazards but feasible on a calm day. The high islands of Trenyken, Storfjellet and Vedøya are a stunning backdrop to this route, and there are large colonies of puffins and cormorants as well as many eagles. ȘȘ Approaches from the N and NW: We have no personal experience with the charted approaches from the N and NW. These approaches are the standard approaches to the fishing grounds and are used by the hundreds of vessels that converge on Røst during the winter fisheries. They are well marked but less suitable for a first time visit. In heavy weather, approaching an unfamiliar Røst would be dangerous.

Anchorages, Moorings: ȘȘ A fine new quay lines the long mole on the NW side of the main harbour, NE of Glea. No facilities and no fee. ȘȘ In strong SE winds better shelter may be found at the wooden quay immediately to the E of the NE end of the new quay. ȘȘ It may also be possible to moor further into the harbour, but note that it is shallow in places. ȘȘ There is a new dock with vertical wooden slats outside the Røst Bryggehotell SE of Glea, opposite the large red buildings with the

large seagull colony. There is only 1.5 m depth (N) to 2.5 m depth (S) Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten alongside. There is a small pontoon. The charge is 100kr/day. ȘȘ There is also a small mole harbour at Nes, E on Røstøya, with a council dock with 2 m depth alongside, useful for a short stay. This harbour is otherwise occupied by moored fishing boats.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available on the docks at the Røst Bryggehotell. Diesel is available at a couple of the fish plants.

For The Crew: Toilets and showers are available in the Røst Bryggehotell. Groceries are available at Glea and at the Joker by the church. There is a P.O. on Glea. Internet is available at the Querini restaurant and pub. And if maritime delicatessen is your thing, their Italian-style stockfish should be sampled.

Things To Do: There is a pub and restaurant at the Røst Bryggehotell. The Røstmat café and bakery is located by the church (they don’t bake every day). The church altar-screen is an art treasure donated to Røst in 1520 by the Netherlands Princess Elisabeth ‘in heartfelt thanks for surviving a stormy voyage’, a sentiment which will no doubt find sympathy in the heart

of the modern cruising mariner (Alstahaugvågen has an altar-board from the same source). You can walk to the old church ruins N on the island and then stroll through Nes, the oldest settlement on Røst. Røst has a large production of stockfish, primarily for the Italian market. In summer the final quality control takes place, and you can inspect the winter’s production before it is shipped out in late summer. On Storfjell are remnants of a 13th century settlement. At the centre of Sandøya is the Querini monument to the Italians shipwrecked there in 1472 who, after wintering with the sheep farmer from Røst who found them in December, wrote a remarkable description of Røst still in the Vatican archives.

Vedøya 67°28.85’ N, 12°01.9’ E Tens of thousands of kittiwakes nest on Vedøya, which is part of the Last Visited: 2007 Røstøyan nature reserve. Depending on the time of year, there may be re- Chart: 70 strictions on landing on the island. We suggest you enquire locally about current restrictions.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchoring here is only advisable in very calm weather. There are three possible anchorages on Vedøya: ȘȘ On the E side of Vedøya, S of the tiny island of Rødtoppen, as charted. There is a strong mooring bolt on the shoal. The distinctive triple peaks of ȘȘ In a tiny crack at the SE extremity of Vedøya. Trenyken where a recently discov- ȘȘ In extremely calm weather it may be possible to anchor off the sizable ered cavern contains a stone age cave on the N of Vedøya that is used as a nesting ground by kittiwakes. painting. Things To Do: From the first anchorage described above you can scramble to the flat top of Vedøya (alt 205 m) for beautiful views over the islands of Røstøya. The second and third anchorages are good places to observe the Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten kittiwakes on their nesting grounds.

A sailboat is tied into the tiny anchorage on the east side of Vedøya, showing the bow line tied to the strong mooring bolt on the shoal.

Skomvær 67°24.5’ N, 11°52.5’ E The small, low island of Skomvær is at the very tip of the 120-mile long Last Visited: 2003 Lofoten chain, where the mountain ridge forming the islands finally sinks Chart: 70 entirely under the sea. Just N of Skomvær are several large grotesquely- shaped islands. On triple peaked Trenyken, a deep cavern has recently been discovered containing a stone-age painting.

Anchorages, Moorings: Surrounded by numerous outlying skerries, The lighthouse and station build- Skomvær offers only a very marginal anchorage, shown on the chart, to ings at Skomvær mark the end of the S in 20 m depth. the line for a cruiser exploring the Lofoten chain, or the beginning Things To Do: We picked very settled weather, anchored here, landed by of a wonderful cruising ground if dinghy at the wharf—used to service the light—and had an interesting vis- coming from the south. it and walk around. Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten