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Norwegian Cruising Guide Sample Chapter Note that this is a big file, so it may be a few minutes before it loads. Scroll down and enjoy. Once you are ready to buy, go to www.norwegiancruisingguide.com. If you would like to see more of the book before buying, the Table of Con- tents and the Preface are also available on the site under Sample Content. www.norwegiancruisingguide.com 68° 30’ N Narvik Skjomenorden Liland Norwegian Cruising Guide 2 Ofotorden Kjeldebotn Ramsundet Ballangen Tjeldøya Sør-Skjomen or Hallarvika 68°N Skarstad Tjelsundet VallebuktaTeppkilenSildpollen Steordbotn Lødingen See Detail Below Tysorden Hinnøya Korsnes Botnøya (NE) Kjøpsvik Beitsorden (SE) Ørnes Kjerrvika Tannøyvågen Tømmervika Tranøy Sommarselvågen Raftsundet Hamsundpollen Presteidvika 67° 30’ N Bjørnvågen Nordland Straumhamn Dalsvær Hamarøya Skutvika Hellemobotn Skarsvåg Oksøysundet Svolvær Trollvika Røtnesvågen Austvågøya Hakvåg Ankersvågen Bogen Tørrisneset Borgvær Henningsvær Coastal Danger Areas Røssøya Vestvågøya #7 Winds: NW-NE, Current/Tide: N-NE Stamsund current generally, Depth: In general, <200m. Leknes and Æsøya #8 Winds: SW-W, Current/Tide: Ebb, Depth: Leknessjøen Nordskot 300-450m. Trolløya/Brennøya Ballstad 16° E Straumøya 8 Kjerringøy Hinnøya Nusord Helnessund Flakstadøya Vestorden Slåtøya/Bukkøya Lofoten Islands Kunna Bodø to Narvik with LofotenSund Vestpollen Map based on C-MAP cartography, Kjerkorden Hamnøya Hjelløya Not for navigation. Reine Kjelbotn Vågøysundet Moskenes Vettøysundet Indre Sørvågen Sandvika Moskenesøya Å Buvågen Bodø Ingelsorden Refsvika 7 Osholmen Værøy Helligvær 14° E Offersøya Hegstadosen Tengelorden Røst Vedøya Kvannkjosen Skomvær Raftsundet Svellingen Grundorden 12° E Trollorden Risvær Tømmervik Digermulen Steinsøya Map based on C-MAP cartography, Ulvågen Not for navigation. Austnesorden Gullvika Store Molla Store Brettesnes Laukvik or Laukvika Fløtningsviken Vestorden Oksøysundet Svolvær Austvågøya without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10. Skrova Kabelvåg Rotnesvågen Nyvågar or Storvågen ©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed Ørsvåg Skarsvåg Henningsvær Bogen Røssøya www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Nordskot If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and you will be supporting future editions. Indre Vettøysundet Hjelløya Norwegian Cruising Guide 3 Charts This area includes Lofoten—the chain of islands separated from the main- Overview at 1:350,000: land by the Vestfjord—long consideredthe destination for mariners cruis- Chart 311. A nice luxury: ing north Norway due to its stunning mountain scenery and snug anchor- Charts 319 and 320 at ages. However, equally worth visiting are the spectacular remote anchor- 1:200,000 and Charts 227 ages, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, of the inshore islands and and 229 at 1:100,000. The the narrow fjord systems on the mainland side of the Vestfjord. This cre- recommended detailed ates a dilemma for the sailor with limited cruising time, though it is worth coverage at 1:50,000: Charts noting that the distances are relatively short in this area. For example, the 65 to 77. Also recommended whole length of Lofoten is only about 120 miles and the width of the at 1:80,000: Chart 230. Vestfjord ranges from 10 to 40 miles. Chart 461 for Narvik, Chart If you are not going any further north than Lofoten, you may wish to 462 for Svolvær and Chart consider following the order of harbours and anchorages in this chapter 476 for Bodø starting in Bodø and traveling in a counter-clockwise direction around the Havneguiden (HG) Vestfjord, making detours in to the Tysfjord and the Ofotfjord, and up the Vol. 4: Bergen - Kirkenes Raftsund—a channel that leads out of the Vestfjord to the north—to visit Counties the famous Trollfjord. Continuing on to the north through the Raftsund, Nordland you could turn west and stop in Laukvik to see the midnight sun before re-entering the Vestfjord through any number of channels further to the south. Or you could retrace your path through the Raftsund, and then sail south down the chain of islands, crisscrossing to the Atlantic side if time allows and you are so inclined, until Skomvær where you can make pas- sage directly to one of the offshore islands around the Arctic Circle, such This spectacular mountain scene as Myken or Træna, or to the Holandsfjord. appears when approaching the An option for those of you passing through Lofoten on your way fur- narrow but deep Svartsund, ther north is to make landfall at Skomvær and then work your way north westbound for the Trollford, along the chain of islands, exiting the Vestfjord through the Raftsund with taken from the Raftsund. a stop at the Trollfjord. On your way back south, you can reenter the Vestfjord through the Tjeldsund (further east than the Raftsund) and then explore the fjords and islands on the mainland side of the Vestfjord from there. Vestfjorden, partitioned from the Atlantic by Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Lofoten, is the world’s richest cod ground, and this determines a great deal of the character of the area. Lofotfisket (the Lofoten fishery), with hundreds of moderate sized fishing boats fol- lowing the cod as they leave the Barents Sea to spawn in the Vestfjord from January to April, is a major economic as well as cultural and social force. There is also a huge herring fishery during the fall. The outer villages have a rich history and unique character shaped by this means of existence, which was, until recently, a very harsh one. However, during the summer months, the fishing is at a low level, leaving plenty of berthing room for cruising boats. Tides and Tidal Streams: The greatest spring tides in this area are just over 3 m. HW is 1.5 hours after Bergen. Tidal streams in the Nappstraum, Gimsøystraum and Raftsund peak at 4 knots, flowing north between 2.5 hours before and 3.5 hours after HW. In the narrows of the Raftsund, the Dried cod (stockfish) baled and north-flowing stream can reach 7 knots with a strong wind. As with tide- ready for shipping to market. races more common in UK waters, the Moskenstraum (the inspiration for Jules Verne’s Maelstrom) can be dangerous with strong wind against tide, If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and ©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed you will be supporting future editions. without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10. www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Norwegian Cruising Guide 4 and it is a good idea to avoid the lumpiness in the area between Røst and Værøy by staying a bit to the southeast. The rock-strewn north approaches of the Gimsøystraum are notoriously dangerous with a strong north wind against the tide. A calm evening scene at Røst, a working harbour that typifies this area where fishing is still an important part of life. Chapter Organization: The harbours below are listed fromBodø (covered in the last chapter) N and then counter clockwise to the S tip of Lofoten. To assist in planning, here is a list of those harbours we consider to be the most outstanding. Since we like to hike, many of our choices are based on good walking/hiking in the vicinity: Hamsundpollen, Ørnes, Hellemobotn, Skjomenfjorden, Digermulen, Gullvika, Skrova, Henningsvær, Straumøya, Reine and Røst. Bodø to Hamarøya Helligvær (SE Vokkøya) 67°25.6’ N, 13°59’ E This is a small isolated village in one ofBodø ’s outlying skerries. Note sev- Bodø Narvik to with Lofoten Last Visited: 2005 eral overhead cables, some charted and some added since chart publica- Chart: 65 tion. HG: Vol. 4: Helligvær Anchorages, Moorings: There are quays and pontoons. The charted anchorage on the 10 m sounding is forbidden due to a water pipe between the islands. One contributor managed to anchor be- tween the islands at the 9 m sounding just E of the anchor symbol on the chart but found the holding poor and would only recommend this as a fair weather anchorage. There are a quay and pontoons at NW Sørværøya, with fuel, P.O. and shop. Osholmen (SW Landegode) 67°24’ N, 14°15.6’ E The three high peaks of Landegode serve as a landmark which can be seen Last Visited: 2006 from anywhere in the Vestfjord. Chart: 65 HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Approaches: Entry is from the W or N through small islets, and it is worth Landegode, Sør exploring a bit before deciding where to drop the hook since there are a number of possible anchoring spots. If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and ©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed you will be supporting future editions. without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10. www.norwegiancruisingguide.com Norwegian Cruising Guide 5 Anchorages, Moorings: This wild and beautiful anchorage has several beaches and many eagles—John Armitage once counted 12 in an hour. Sandvika (SE Landegode) 67°23.1’ N, 14°18.5’ E There are nice beaches and a park area ashore. Last Visited: 2007 Chart: 65 Anchorages, Moorings: Though one contributor reported difficulty -get HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under ting the anchor to set in 16 m depth, another reported good holding in 13 Landegode, Sør m depth in a mix of sand and mud. There is good swinging room and good all around protection from Landegode and a number of small islands and reefs. Things To Do: It is a lovely walk across to the sand beaches on the W side of the island.