Vol 5 No 1 August 2015
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2 the science of beauty Tenerife Spain
Step by step to perfectly even skin tone
EFFECT ON MELANIN CONTENT OF DARK SPOTS
0 weeks 8 weeks
BRIGHLETTE™ marine ingredient acts on the multiple stages of the pigmentation process to consistently reduce the deposition of melanin in the skin. By decreasing melanin accumulation, this new active reduces the size and contrast of the dark spots and evens out the skin tone. An in vivo test at 2% dosage, showed a 61.1% melanin reduction in hyperpigmented skin. A brighter, fair and even complexion appearance.
Lipotec Pty Ltd 28 River Street Silverwater NSW 2128 Australia Phone: +61 (02) 9741 5237 Fax: +61 (02) 9748 4924 E-mail: [email protected] All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol theCorporation. science © 2015 of The beauty Lubrizol Corporation. 3 contents Vol 5 No 1 August 2015
Wellness Educational 14 Food Allergy or Intolerance 19 Rosacea 8 by Emma Sutherland by Tina Aspres 16 Massage for the Aged 21 Dermodex Mites by Wendy Lockyear by Emanuela Elia 32 Sunscreen Highlights by John Staton 34 From Formularius to Product by Margaret Smith 48 Formulator’s Forum by Ric Williams
Business 13 9 Double your Profi t through Better Client Retention by Pam Stellema 11 Management Liability ASCC by James Gillard 28 President’s Report 25 Success Story by Matthew Martens by Barbara Filokostas, Botani 38 NZSCCA Annual Conference 30 New Test on Uplevity Peptide 2015 18 by Lipotec by Tulaki Tu’inukuafe Technical Advertisers 40 Assessing Skin Irritation 2 A S Harrison 33 Brenntag Potential of Baby Personal 3 Lipotec 37 Syndet Works Products using the Thor in 12 Insurance Made Easy 49 AMA Labs vitro Baby Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) 15 Avenir Ingredients 50 Ingredients Plus Model: The Baby VitroDerm 22 Enzyme Labs 52 CeeChem by Kevin Roden, Thor 23 Lycon 59 PCI 53 Topically Applied Keratins for 27 Native Extracts 60 Karpati Hair and Skin Care 31 Dermatest by Gill Worth, Keraplast Research
4 the science of beauty CALL FOR PAPERS
GET TOTHEPOINT WREST POINT, TASMANIA
The 2016 ASCC Annual Conference will be held at the Wrest Point Hotel, HOBART on April 27-29, 2016. The Organising Committee invites expressions of interest to present papers and workshops. Papers are requested in the areas of Cosmetics, Toiletries and Therapeutics including the science and their Branding and Marketing, with preference given to relevant and original work that relates to the underlying theme of the conference, (Get(ting) to the Point.) in terms of Compliance, Quality, Performance, Creativity and /or Value. ABSTRACT Abstracts are to be submitted in English and be 100 to 250 words in length. Submissions should be in Microsoft Word format, double-spaced using Arial font in 10 or 12pt. Please include the following information: a) Preference for Platform or Workshop, Presentation Title, Name of Author(s), b) presenting Author’s name to be underlined, Company/Organisation, Postal Address, Phone, Fax and Email Address. It must be clearly stated if the presenter is not one of the authors. Please note, the ASCC prides itself on being a scientific organisation. Kindly ensure your presentation does not contain Trade names, but rather INCI names. All questions can be directed to Marg Smith either by email [email protected] or telephone 0397616726 SUBMISSIONS Submissions as Abstracts or Full Papers should be emailed by December 20th 2015 to Marg Smith [email protected] and Frank Arrigo [email protected] Presentations should be of 25 to 30 minutes duration including 5 minutes for questions. Workshops may be of 60 or 90 minutes. Preference is for interactive workshops. Successful abstracts will be notified by 31st January 2016 Submission of full written papers will be required by 12th March 2016. AWARDS To be eligible for the Lester Conrad Award (best original paper presented) or the Jack Jacobs Award (best paper based on original research conducted in Australia or New Zealand) full written papers must be submitted. Terms and conditions for these Awards are available via www.ascc.com.au. CONFERENCE UPDATE The Organising Committee has been busy behind the scenes putting together a special ASCC Conference for you all. We are also in the process of arranging pre-conference workshops. If holding such a workshop appeals to you, please let us know as we’d be happy to hear from you. Connie Pisa has organised what promises to be a memorable social program which includes a visit to the world famous MONA. For something a little different, we will have a special focus for Brand Owners to run alongside the Technical Program. We would especially welcome speakers knowledgeable in areas such as insurance, trademarks, packaging and trends to respond to the Call for Papers. The interaction with our customers should allow for an exchange of ideas and mutual learning to try and bridge the gap between the realities of R&D and Marketing methods so we can all Get to the (same) Point! We look forward to seeing you at the 2016 ASCC Conference.
the science of beauty 5 meet the team...
LISA DELLA-BOSCA Lisa has been a professional skin therapist working in the industry for over 30 years. After the first couple of years as a beauty therapist, Lisa had a driving force to understand the cause and treatment for the clients skin disorders she was managing, but at this stage could only treat superficially. The solution was to study natural therapies. For over 25 years Lisa has married the science of The Science Of Beauty natural therapies especially nutrition with skin science with skin therapy to gain ISSN: 1837-8536 solutions for skin disorders and skin conditions. Published Bi-monthly (January March May July September November)
www.thescienceofbeauty.com.au KITTIRAT YOTNANGRONG or Akoi as she is known, is one of the very few people who have been a Buddhist nun and a runner-up in the Miss Southern Thailand Beauty Quest as a “mature” contestant. She is a ‘practical’ Publisher vegetarian who believes in herbs, healthy living, and meditation. An avid yoga Manor Enterprises Pty Ltd fanatic, Kittirat is also an organic farmer. She regularly speaks to community ABN 32 002 617 807 groups in Malaysia and Thailand on empowerment, health through herbs, and spirituality.
Editor Joy Harrison All correspondence should be sent to The Editor The Science of Beauty WENDY FREE has degrees in science (B.Sc) and Technology Management PO Box 487 (M.Tech Mngt) and is an active member of a number of industry associations GULGONG NSW 2852 including Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Society of Microbiologists, Association of Therapeutic Goods Consultants, MediQ and is Mobile: 0418 541 998 a Fellow of the Australian Organisation for Quality. With more than 2 decades Email: [email protected] industry experience, Wendy is currently the Scientific Director of Quality Matters Safety Matters Pty Ltd providing expertise in product and quality systems development, specifically for the medicines and personal care industries. She Advertising specialises in regulatory compliance, commercialisation, troubleshooting and GMP systems. Wendy has participated in the development and successful Tony Harrison launch of hundreds of products, and is passionate about everything she does. Advertising Manager PO Box 487 GULGONG NSW 2852 PAM STELLEMA is the Principal Coach and founder of SalonSavy, and Mobile: 0429 165 156 provides specialised industry based phone coaching to her clients. Pam has Email: [email protected] owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specialises in maximising salon productivity and profits. She has also authored the book “3 ½ Secrets to Salon Success” Subscriptions Pam can be contacted via her website www.SalonSavy.com.au or phone 011 617 5529 6467 or 0431 975 515. The Subscription Manager (PO Box 487 Gulgong NSW 2852) $66.00 (per year) incl P/H (Aust.only) $106.00 (2 year) 20% discount
JOHN STATON has a background of over 40 years experience in the Disclaimer pharmaceutical and healthcare industries. John is a life member of the The viewpoints and opinions ASCC and serves in a number of industry representative roles with ASMI, expressed in the articles appearing ACCORD, TGA and Standards. He is the Australian representative to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing-TC 217. (The committee for development of in this magazine are those of the sunscreen standards). John is also in demand as a speaker on the International authors. The Publisher takes no Conference Circuit. responsibility for the information supplied.
6 the science of beauty WENDY LOCKYEAR founder and principal RIC WILLIAMS was educated in Sydney of Advance Massage Australasia has been in the obtaining his Bachelor of Science in Pure and natural and remedial therapies industry since 1972 Applied Chemistry from the University of New South and is an accredited member of the Australian Wales (1980) and a Diploma of Environmental Traditional Medicine Society, and an accredited Studies from Macquarie University in 1983. training provider with over 26 years clinical Ric has had 40 years experience in the industry experience and over 18 years in education, training working for many companies and operating his own and instructional skills, teaching a wide variety of consultancy business for many years. remedial modalities from general interest and post He has presented many lectures and workshops graduate workshops to accredited units up to an at national conferences for the Australian Society Advanced Diploma level, Wendy travels extensively of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC), the Association of and delivers regular annual seminars. Wendy specialises in delivering her Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA), Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical courses and workshops one or two on one and recommends this for any one Special Interest Group (CAPSIG) and also beauty colleges nation wide. seeking a maximum level of competency based training.
TINA ASPRES has worked as a Pharmacist for MARG SMITH is the owner of Syndet Works almost 20 years in retail, industry and academia – an Australian company established in 1984 to as well as being a Cosmetic Chemist. Currently formulate and produce soap free skincare bars. she works in industry and has vast experience in Syndet has developed an enviable reputation for both the pharmaceutical and healthcare arenas. custom formulated and manufactured skincare that In addition to this she is a casual academic at now extend well beyond the origins of the business. UTS, School of Health, (Faculty of Pharmacy in Pharmaceutics). Tina has a great interest in clinical research in dermatology and the treatment of skin disease and conditions and is Clinical Trial Coordinator at South West Sydney Dermatology. She is a keen researcher in transdermal drug delivery systems. Tina is a Member of the Pharmaceutical Society of Australia and a Member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. She regularly consults pharmaceutical companies in the area of acne, eczema and skincare especially in the area of cosmeceuticals and has devised and written numerous support, training and education material for EMANUELA ELIA is the Director of Ozderm, which companies aimed at both professionals and consumers. Tina consults for the specialises in in vivo testing and clinical trials for Eczema Association Australasia and is on their Integrity Assessment Panel and cosmetic and personal care products. Emanuela has worked with Choice Magazine on numerous reports. Tina has presented Elia has a law degree from Rome and a Master at the Annual Scientific Meeting of the Australasian College of Dermatologists of International Business from the University of and has published within the pharmacy and medical literature in the area of Sydney. She had collaborated with Australia’s sun protection, Vitamin D, skin cancer prevention and eczema as well as co- longest serving Contract Research Organisation authoring the book ‘All About Kids’ Skin – The Essential Guide’ published by Datapharm for a few years before setting up a ABC Books cosmetic and personal care products testing facility in 2009. Emanuela is enthusiastic about improving the quality of cosmetic and personal care products’ research in Australia through science.
EMMA SUTHERLAND is a successful naturopath and TV presenter, her mission in life is to inspire women to get their “Mojo” back. She is the expert nutritionist on the Logie nominated “Eat Yourself Sexy” on LifeStyle You. She is also a key MURRAY HUNTER has been involved in contributor and expert panellist for the recently Asia-Pacific business for the last 30 years as an launched Woolworths Baby & Toddler Club. With entrepreneur, consultant, academic, and researcher. over 10 years experience working with women, His first venture into the personal care industry Emma is the woman to turn to if you want your was a joint venture with the Andrew Jergens Mojo back! Company in Australia in the late 1970s, later setting up a manufacturing plant, and marketing operation in Indonesia during the early 1980s. As an entrepreneur he was involved in numerous start- ups, developing a lot of patented technology, where JAMES GILLARD is the Principal of Insurance one of his enterprises was listed as the 5th fastest Made Easy whose services include – business going company on the BRW/Price Waterhouse Fast100 list in 1992 in Australia. insurance, travel insurance and financial services. Murray is now an associate professor at the University Malaysia Perlis, spending Insurance Made Easy has a client list of over a lot of time consulting to Asian governments on community development and 2000 businesses from all industries. The relevant village biotechnology, both at the strategic level and “on the ground”. He is a major insurance schemes are – Hair and Beauty, visiting professor at a number of universities and regular speaker at conferences Pharmaceutical Companies and Natural Therapists. and workshops in the region. Murray is the author of a number of books, numerous research and conceptual papers in referred journals, and commentator on the issues of personal care, psychology, entrepreneurship and development in a number of magazines and online news sites around the world.
the science of beauty 7 doublebusinessbusiness double double double
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8 the science of beauty your profits through better client retention
Given the choice, most salon and spa spa, they want to be treated like a VIP owners will jump at the opportunity to – whether it’s their first or fiftieth visit. learn how to attract more clients into When clients start to notice that their their business. After all, thats how their loyalty is being taken for granted, you salons will grow, right? risk losing them. From this point on, the In fact, this isn’t the case at all. client can be stolen away from your salon Each time I work with a new client quite easily by another salon that looks and I ask them what their business goals like it might have something better on are, at least 90% tell me that getting new offer. clients is at the top of their wish list. The Many business owners mistakenly funny thing is that when we monitor the believe that their clients will remain Gintake of new clients without any kind of loyal to them forever because they promotional activity, we find that there never complain. In fact, when clients do is generally good organic growth that complain it’s generally with their feet requires next to no financial outlay. and without any forewarning at all. And by Pam Stellema This means that a lack of growth isn’t when this happens, there’s a good chance necessarily due to a lack of new clients; you’ve lost them forever. instead it’s more likely to be caused by You may think that clients leave retention rate. I suggested that every the inability to keep them. And if that’s because the salon down the road has treatment should begin with a short the case, shouldn’t the top goal of every newer equipment, cheaper prices, whiter consultation to make sure she understood salon owner be finding ways to keep walls or fluffier bed linen, but in fact exactly what her clients wanted from her the clients she already has, instead of the majority of clients who leave, do so and to ensure they didn’t have any issues constantly chasing new ones? because your salon doesn’t make them after their last treatment. Perhaps so, but how do you achieve feel unique and special anymore. This salon owner couldn’t believe that? As an example, I was working with that spending a few minutes of her time Well, your clients are just like you and a struggling salon owner recently who making sure her client was going to be me. When they come into your salon or wanted to improve her low client happy was worth the effort. She didn’t
the science of beauty 9 see the necessity of ‘wasting’ her time this way, when the client ‘always had the same thing every time she was in Excellent firms don’t believe anyway’. The rot had well and truly set in, but yet she didn’t see the relationship in excellence – only in constant between this and her client retention improvement and constant change. problems. ❛ ~ Tom Peters What are the benefits of increasing your client retention rate? your existing clients is a much more that you must become more client- focused. No longer should you ask Research into the benefits of retaining economical option. yourself the question, ‘What do❜ I want more of your clients shows that it’s However, this doesn’t happen by to offer my clients?’ but instead, ‘What substantially cheaper to keep an existing accident, but rather by design and do my clients want from me?’ and ‘What client happy than to source a new one. unfortunately, just being technically will improve the client’s experience in my To add to that, existing clients are likely good at what you do is not enough by salon?’ to spend more money during each visit itself to keep your clients returning to Now this may seem to be over- to your salon because they’re more likely you. simplifying the secret to business success, to purchase additional services and Once you understand this, you’ll but in fact, if you can stay focused on products. realise that instead of continuously what your clients want and find ways Also the expense of constantly looking for ways to entice new clients to not only meet, but exceed their sourcing new clients can end up costing into your salon, you really need to expectations, your ability to retain your your salon many thousands of dollars be looking for ways to improve your clients is going to dramatically improve. each year; all money that comes straight existing clients’ experiences instead. And with that improvement will come off your bottom line, whereas keeping With this in mind, it’s very obvious greater client retention and greater profits. Every financially successful business operator understands that without clients alonal who remain loyal, they are constantly Salon Specialist Coach chasing their tail and starting from SSavyavy scratch over and over again. Need Help? It’s only when clients remain with your salon and then new clients join their numbers and also remain, can you grow If you ever struggle with: your business. Client retention is an භ Client aƩracƟon and retenƟon important part of business growth and is භ Staī management 100% dependant on their satisfaction, not භ Improved proĮtability only with the service that they receive, භ Salon MarkeƟng but even more importantly, with how භ Service and menu development they are treated. The really good news is that changing Then why not give me a call to talk about how a POWER your mindset around how to treat your CONVERSATION package of 3 coaching sessions could turn clients costs you nothing. Not one that around for you. cent! The answer lies in the consistent TesƟmonial: Thanks so much Pam. Your help has been just attention to detail, the friendly welcome wonderful so far. There is no way I could have got myself this and farewell, and the willingness to organised. Thanks for making this journey not seem so really listen to what they’re asking for. overwhelming. So if your salon is constantly chasing Lisa new clients, you may want to stop for Lumiere Beauty a minute to ask yourself why you need T. to keep doing that. Why do you always 0431 975 515 W. need new clients, when if you could just www.SalonSavy.com.au E. hang on to the clients you already have, [email protected] your business would soon be flourishing?
10 the science of beauty insuranceinsurance
Management Liability – Why every business should have it?
by James Gillard
Big business aren’t the only ones that in the daily operations of running their face the prospect of long, drawn out business. Management Liability policies court battles over everything from unfair often extend to cover such thing as crisis dismissal and regulatory discrepancies to management, theft of company funds occupational health and safety concern. (fidelity) and pollution defence costs. Small to medium enterprises are being Surveys have shown a low percentage drawn increasingly into the contest of of businesses adequately protect their litigation business downtime and the owners, directors and management quickly escalating legal cost. from the legal consequences of liability From as little as $700, small businesses, risks that may arise from their daily can cover themselves against such actions. Most companies insure the Bpotential problems. When considering tangible exposures of property damage as the standard business insurance of and bodily injury but neglect to insure fire, theft, and public liability, whether against economic loss. Any business can your business be small, medium or large, experience unwelcome surprises that management liability insurance focuses on the Management Liability should be on the could potentially threaten their financial ‘act’ of running a company. priority list. position, and in some instances this Once a business starts employing staff, creates possible personal exposure for the Who can bring an action a director or shareholders should take owners and managers. against a company, its director, out Management Liability insurance. officers and employees? Local, State and Federal legislations Management Liability - Regulators (The ATO, ACCC & and regulations that govern how your Insurance is not Professional ASIC) business should be conducted are Indemnity Insurance – - Employees becoming increasingly more complex, Why not? - Clients leaving not just bosses at risk of exposure The purpose of Professional - Competitors but employees as well. Indemnity (PI) Insurance is to response - Creditors Management liability insurance to claims from third parties in respect - Shareholders includes things such as unfair dismissal, of professional, specialist services - Liquidators or Administrators. lack of advancement or even sexual including advice you provide not for or workplace discrimination. Anyone claims that you mismanaged your The Major Components and who operates a business is exposed to company and caused loss to others. You Covers of Management Liability over 800 pieces of legislation, from have to take out separate insurance for Insured Persons Liability Local, State and Federal Authorities. this exposure. Businesses are becoming more aware of Where professional indemnity insurance Covers, loss arising from claims the sheer breadth of exposures they face covers the ‘activities’ of the company, brought against the directors, officers
the science of beauty 11 or employees acting in managerial offered by some insurers and covers or supervisory capacity within the such things as theft of company business money, data, privacy from your company via electronic means Company Liability Covers, loss arising from claims The insurance cost is minimal made against the business when compared to the consequences of the unexpected. If you are unsure Employment Practise Liability about your current coverage and Covers Loss arising from claims need a professional advisor to review brought by employees, past, present your policy or risk, please contact the or alleging discrimination, sexual Friendly Team at Insurance Made harassment or failure to promote Easy for personal assistance to discuss your own individual circumstances Statutory Liability (Usually Fines & 1800 64 1260 or visit our website Penalties imposed by Government www.madeeasy.com.au Department and Authorities) James Gillard Covers, Claims from actual or Managing Director alleged breach of Local, State or Federal Law made against the company, its directors or officers
Crime (Fidelity) Covers, Claims for loss of Company Funds arising from any fraudulent or dishonest act committed by an employee and in some circumstances even a third party
Internet Liability Covers, Loss arising from websites, emails and other electronic communications actual or alleged. This includes claims, again actual or alleged for Infringement of Copyright, libel, slander, violation of privacy/right
Taxation Audit Express Additional costs incurred in providing information by specialists such as Accountants, Bookkeepers etc. To assist with a TAX Department AOT
Crisis Loss If you have an adverse event such as a Product Recall or Death/Illness from your product failure additional costs for specialist consultants
Cyber This is a new area of coverage
12 the science of beauty wellnesswellness
the science of beauty 13 do you have a food allergy or intolerance?
Food allergies are increasing at an to the protein in a food that it mistakenly alarming rate. Did you know that registers as a threat to the body. This Australia has one of the highest reported reaction often presents itself with incidences of food allergies in the immediate symptoms such as itchiness, world? Today, one in ten babies born rashes, and swelling. in Australia will develop an allergy to Other symptoms can include food. • low blood pressure, dizziness, faintness Food intolerance is even more or collapse prevalent, with surveys indicating that • swelling of the lips and throat, nausea 25% of Australians experience symptoms and feeling bloated of a food intolerance. In clinic I • diarrhoea, and vomiting successfully treat so many clients for food • dry, itchy throat and tongue, intolerances and they always feel so much coughing, wheezing and shortness of better afterwards. breath and a runny or blocked nose Both allergies and intolerances are • itchy skin, hives and sore, red and itchy extremely common, but what is the eyes difference between food allergy and A food allergy can also be so severe food intolerance? They sound as though by Emma Sutherland should be very similar in meaning that it triggers anaphylaxis, which if though they are in fact very different. left untreated, can be fatal. There are more than 170 different foods that are Food Allergies known to have triggered an allergic • Milk • Eggs It involves the immune systems reaction. Generally the most common • Fish reaction to a food which forms IgE are: • Peanuts antibodies. The immune system responds • Crustaceans • Sesame seeds
14 the science of beauty • Tree nuts and, Again, like an allergy, there are many After reading that list you might now • Soybeans different foods that a person can be be wondering why gluten is not on it? There is currently no cure for food intolerant to, however, here a few of the This is because there is an entire category allergies, and the only way to prevent a most common: of gluten issues, which do not necessarily reaction is by avoiding those foods. • Lactose intolerance - caused by a fall into intolerance or allergy. shortage of the enzyme lactase in the These include: Food Intolerance body. Celiac Disease – an inherited Unlike a food allergy, a food • Milk intolerance - most common in autoimmune disorder that affects the intolerance is generally not life children under 2 years. digestion process. threatening. It involves the inability to • Food additive intolerance - The Non-Celiac Gluten Sensitivity digest a food or the formation of IgG additives that are often linked to food – which many refer to as gluten antibodies. intolerance are artificial colours such as intolerance, and can cause damage to Symptoms that can be associated with tartrazine, sulphites and benzoates. your intestinal tissue. a food allergy include: • Sulphites - are found in wine and • stomach and bowel upsets dried fruit. They now have to be • bloating declared on all packaged products • headaches and migraines under the Food Act 2003 (NSW). • wheezing and a runny nose • Gluten Intolerance – which can refer • hives to Celiac disease, non-celiac gluten • fatigue sensitivity and wheat sensitivity.
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the science of beauty 15 massagemassage
Remedial therapies and massage for aged care Part 2
by Wendy Lockyear
Through a program that I personally occupational therapists and nursing delivered during 1990s which aids became my students and were only involved a case study with doctors too eager to learn and then to work and with clients in aged care directly on their clients. To this day facilities throughout the Gold Coast, it has become a most popular therapy Queensland and New South Wales. treatment in aged care centres. I delivered reflexology sessions with NOTE: Aromatherapy foot baths these clients. We encountered some are a wonderful adjunct prior to a marvelous results working with massage session using three drops people suffering with Alzheimer’s each of lavender, lemon, orange and disease in particular as well as people peppermint essential oils, blended with Twho had other disabilities. One case a teaspoon of milk. This blend is then study on a group of clients suffering poured into the footbath while filling medications (drugs) taken for these with Alzheimer’s disease had shown the bath with warm water. conditions are likely to be long term. fantastic outcomes where they could Three drops each of hypericum, They may also be taking medication for walk easily and without a struggle arnica and calendula essential oils short term disorders such as some types with one nurse instead of two to the are very good blended with 25ml of of pain, digestive ailments, constipation amenities and dining rooms. As a result almond oil to relieve bruises and help or infections. they were relaxed, calm and not as heal the skin. Some of the conditions treated stiff and were moving more freely. We Six drops of Eucalyptus essential oil with medications are as follows; could tell that they were happier and it blended with 25ml of almond or olive Antibiotics : Influenza and Pneumonia. certainly helped their family members is useful on arthritic joints. Antihyperglycemic: Controlling blood to understand them better. We as carers sugar levels to control diabetes and felt a deep satisfaction in knowing that Medications, their side effects enable people with this disorder to massage therapy and reflexology had a and how remedial therapies function normally, this also reduces the very valuable place in overall aged care can help risk of eye and kidney problems that can centres. Elderly people are more likely to be caused by diabetes. Antihypertensive: Following my work directly have chronic disorders such as arthritis, to help prevent strokes and heart attacks. with these clients, carers, nurses, high blood pressure or diabetes. Most Antidepressants: for stress relief and to
16 the science of beauty counteract depression. Antihistamines: easily eliminated from the body. • Relaxes the nerves, relaxes body and for the relief of allergies. Most of these A healthy lifestyle and remedial mind medications have an Anticholinergic therapies can assist with the elimination • Stimulates body and mind of waste and by-products that have or effect which also assists with reducing • Improves balance of physiological are building up in the body, enabling a tremors for people who suffer with harmony, relieves tension, anxiety and faster process of ridding the drugs from Parkinson disease. grief These Anticholinergic effects can the body. A healthy balanced clean diet • Restores and repairs health and block the action of acetylcholine of fresh fruit and vegetables, juices and function, aids rehabilitation. which is a neurotransmitter – a drinking plenty of water, shall assist chemical messenger released by a with both liver and kidney function, Contraindications nerve cell to transmit a nerve signal enabling the medications to work more with massage to a neighbouring nerve cell or effectively thus help prevent the nasty This means where NOT to massage. cell in a muscle or gland, acting as side effects of these medications. 1. Directly onto open or infected a communicator enabling cells to Exercise is very important and we wounds, inflamed tissues or operations talk to one another, assisting with don’t mean running a marathon, just or contagious conditions such as tinea, light exercises for about half an hour concentration, learning and memory, rashes, etc. helping to control the function of each time, 3-4 times per week at 2. Severe heart condition. the heart, blood vessels, airways, your own pace, such as swimming, urinary ( kidneys) and digestive organs walking, cycling, yoga or Pilates etc. 3. Freshly torn ligaments or tendons. and allowing smooth involuntary This will improve the circulation of the 4. Where it can stretch scar tissue. cardiovascular system (heart and lungs) muscles cells to contract. However 5. Broken or fractured bones. assisting with oxygenating the blood Anticholinergic drugs can disrupt 6. On bacterial inflammation. the normal function of these organs to the heart and removing the waste 7. On varicose veins. therefore side effects will most likely products via the lymphatic system. Massage, reflexology, foot massage 8. In any situation that could irritate occur, particularly if these medications and lymphatic drainage massage are or aggravate conditions, i.e.; acute are taken over a long period of time. beneficial too for the circulation of bursitis, etc. It’s a catch 22 as the saying goes, blood and lymph and the nervous although these medications are vital 9. Massage can be applied around system. in a lot of situations for many people, wounds to promote blood circulation the side effects can be detrimental and and nutrition to help the healing Other objectives and process. cause further problems so the person benefits of massage and takes another drug to counteract the aromatherapy When in doubt of any situation – Don’t side effects until they are taking a • Relieves pain Arthritic conditions can be extremely whole cocktail of medications. Some painful, massaging the surrounding • Invigorating skin of these side effects can include: nausea muscles is beneficial however care • Promoting suppleness, relaxing and abnormal heart rhythms, liver or must be taken and gentle movements muscles, soothing muscular aches kidney problems, confusion, blurred applied. At no time should any vision, constipation, dry mouth, light • Correcting faults to skeletal system, massage movements be applied if the – headedness, difficulty with urination balancing structure inflammation is hot and swollen. and loss of bladder control. • Relaxing the C.N.S. Evaluation is most important before With age, the metabolism slows • Stimulating normal function of organs applying massage or treatment of any down, the kidneys are less able to and glands kind. excrete drugs into urine and the • Improves metabolism liver is less able to break down most drugs, therefore they will not be easily • Encourages elimination of waste fluids removed from the body. As people and products Encourages growth of age, the amount of water in the body new cells repairing tissues Elimination decreases and the fat tissues increase. of old cells Medications that dissolve in water • Promotes healing, internal and reach higher concentrations because external there is less water to dilute them. The • Improves venous and lymph flow. medications that dissolve in fat tissues Supplying nutrition to and around accumulate more because there is more joints preventing congestion, fat to store them in and they are not inflammation and swelling
the science of beauty 17 skinskin
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18 the science of beauty ROSACEA – ‘Red Alert’
What is rosacea? males, although more severe cases of rosacea are seen in males. It is considered Rosacea is a common, persistent (chronic) skin condition that to be partly hereditary and can be predominantly affects the central area of provoked by various external influences the face. The condition is characterised and stresses. Fair skinned, blue-eyed by pustules and papules, erythema/ individuals who tend to blush and flush flushing and telangiectasia, with flares easily are more likely to be affected with and remission being a common feature of rosacea than any other population, with the condition. Often, it is misdiagnosed the condition often referred to as the as acne and it is not uncommon for “Celtic curse”. Rpeople to not know they have rosacea, Due to the highly visible nature of let alone be aware that the condition rosacea, the condition can adversely exists. It is not an infectious disease and affect one’s emotional, psychological and is not spread by contact or breathing in social well being. airborne bacteria. Rosacea is a condition that affects What are the signs and adults (incidence in children is rare, symptoms of rosacea? although it has been reported in the The signs and symptoms of rosacea by Tina Aspres literature) – with early signs of the vary from one individual to another. condition being recurrent episodes Initially, the condition presents with of blushing that finally become red, intermittent blushing and flushing, which does not go away. Generally, the erythematous areas predominantly especially after exercise or extreme distinctive red rash is apparent on the affecting the nose and cheeks. Whilst changes in temperature (hot or cold), nose and cheeks in a ‘butterfly’ pattern. the condition may occur during the and may persist for several hours or The chin and forehead may also be 20’s where persistent flushing and even days. Progression is then to a more involved. As the condition progresses blushing that lasts for extended periods is persistent and permanent red facial over time, enlarged pores, small broken observed, it commonly occurs between rash. This is usually the key symptom capillaries over the cheeks (telangiectasia) the ages of 30 to 50, peaking by age 60. in diagnosing the condition. It appears and papules and pustules may appear. It is also more prevalent in females than almost like a sunburn to the face, There may be oedema, roughness and
the science of beauty 19 scaling of the skin as well as skin dryness medical treatment, although there is or metronidazole) as well as a topical and flaking, and an itching, burning, or no cure for the condition. In treating medication (eg topical metronidazole stinging sensation as the skin becomes the condition, it is important to bear in gel, erythromycin gel, tretinoin, more sensitive. In addition, there may mind, what may work for one person adapalene or azelaic acid topical also be ocular involvement where the may not work for another. preparations). eyes become watery, feel gritty and The aim of treatment is to help • Laser therapy is another treatment may even appear to be bloodshot. In control symptoms and minimise the option that may be considered for progressed cases of rosacea the nose may occurrence of flares. The earlier rosacea certain patients. Lasers may be effective appear swollen, bumpy and bulbous is identified and diagnosed by a doctor or in reducing/removing visible broken (rhynophyma) due to thickening of the dermatologist, the greater the probability capillaries and improve the visual skin (this however, is more common in of preventing the worsening of the appearance of rhinophyma. males and rarely seen in females). condition. • In persistent, stubborn and hard Often rosacea is misdiagnosed as acne Treatment should commence by to treat cases of rosacea, low dose due to the many pustules and papules avoiding known triggers and irritants isotretinoin may also be prescribed. that may be visible on the face, but and following a gentle skin care routine: unlike acne, comedones (blackheads and • Use of a gentle, soap free skin cleanser, Helpful hints and tips: whiteheads) are not a feature of rosacea. gentle cleansing gel or cleansing milk Being aware of what may be a trigger • Showering or bathing with lukewarm and cause a flare of the condition is the What are the causes and water key to reducing flares and controlling triggers of rosacea? • Patting the skin dry rather than the condition. Keeping a daily diary will It is believed that both genetic and rubbing vigorously help in identifying triggers. This will environmental factors (causing dilatation • Not rubbing the face aggressively help take appropriate measures to avoid of blood vessels) play a role in rosacea, or using abrasive facial exfoliants or triggers and hopefully reduce flares. although the actual cause still remains scrubs – use of BHA – salicylic acid • Avoid exposure to sunlight (apply unknown. Causes that have been linked may however, be useful in reducing mineral sunscreen) to the condition include exposure to redness, dryness and flakiness of the • Avoid extreme changes in temperature ultraviolet radiation (sun) to the skin, skin and overheating eg avoid strenuous and the microorganisms helicobacter • Avoiding the use of chemical peels exercise until the condition is under pylori and demodex folliculorum. Other • Apply a 30+ mineral sunscreen daily control contributing triggers include certain (zinc oxide or titanium oxide) • Keep cool during hot conditions skin care products containing fragrances • Camouflage makeup may help • Avoid hot drinks and alcohol, facial scrubs and exfolliants, camouflage the appearance of rosacea • Avoid drinking alcohol (especially red excessive use of corticosteroid creams, (eg green tones will help counteract wine) and caffeine drinks hot water, hot baths, dry winds, hot and redness) • Avoid spicy, hot foods cold weather, and extreme hot conditions • Avoiding skincare products with • Avoid saunas such as saunas and heavy exercise. fragrances, alcohol, which hazel and • Avoid emotional stress Eating hot or spicy food and drinking essential oils – (eg peppermint oil, • Avoid certain medications (eg hot, alcoholic or caffeine drinks and menthol, eucalyptus) or fragrant plant corticosteroid creams and certain emotional stress can be contributors in extracts (e.g. lavender, rosemary) as types of blood pressure medication – worsening the condition also. these contains sensitisers that may vasodilators) provoke the condition and trigger a • Minimise the use of skincare products How is the condition flare and use products for sensitive skin diagnosed? • Avoid toners (especially those that • Cosmeceuticals that may of There are no laboratory tests to contain alcohol), and oily cosmetics benefit include the botanical anti- diagnose the condition. Observing (use oil- free or mineral makeup) inflammatories - ginko biloba, green and recognising specific features and • Use of a moisturiser with ceramides to tea, aloe vera, allantoin, feverfew and characteristics of the condition help help build up the skin barrier glycyrrhiza inflata. diagnose the condition. Whilst the same treatment regimen Medical treatment: will not suit all rosacea sufferers, Is rosacea treatable? • In conjunction with following the following the above simple measures, Rosacea is a condition that can above, prescription medication is also recognising triggers and making lifestyle be managed and controlled with a used in the treatment of rosacea. An changes will help better manage and combination of dietary and lifestyle oral antibiotic may be prescribed (eg control the condition and minimise the changes in conjunction with appropriate tetracycline, doxycycline, minocycline recurrence of flares.
20 the science of beauty Demodex mites and human skin
by Emanuela Elia
Demodex is a genus of tiny parasitic exists, suggesting it may play a role in mites that live in or near hair follicles promoting acne. of mammals. Around 65 species of Demodex mites have also been demodex are known. Two species associated with other skin conditions living on humans have been identified: such as rosacea. Rosacea is a chronic demodex folliculorum and demodex brevis. inflammatory disease of skin in young d. folliculorum is found in hair follicles, to middle aged adults, but can occur while d. brevis lives in sebaceous glands occasionally in children. At present, the connected to hair follicles. Both species etiology of Rosacea is not completely are primarily found in the face, near the understood. Among other factors a nose, the eyelashes and eyebrows, but causative role has been postulated for the D procedure allowed us to see the demodex also occur elsewhere on the body. hair follicle mites demodex folliculorum mites in their natural environment (the and demodex brevis. Demodex mites skin) and still alive. Skin concerns possibly caused are commonly observed in subjects with by demodex mites The aim of the study was to assess the rosacea. efficacy of a topical product designed to In the vast majority of cases, the Research conducted on stop proliferation of the demodex mites mites go unobserved, without any and improve some of the symptoms of adverse symptoms, but in certain cases demodex mites rosacea associated with the mites (e.g. (usually related to a suppressed immune In a recent study we conducted in redness, itchiness). Therefore, once SSB system, caused by stress or illness) mite Sydney, we adopted a technique called populations can dramatically increase, ‘skin surface biopsy’ (SSB) or ‘superficial EMANUELA ELIA is the Director of Ozderm, which resulting in a condition known as skin surface biopsy’ (SSSB) to detect specialises in in vivo testing and clinical trials for demodicosis or demodex mite bite, and quantify the demodex mites present cosmetic and personal care products. Emanuela Elia has a law degree from Rome and a Master of characterised by itching, inflammation in a skin sample. SSB is a technique International Business from the University of Sydney. and other skin disorders. Blepharitis that involves the collection of a sample She had collaborated with Australia’s longest serving Contract Research Organisation Datapharm for a (inflammation of the eyelids) can of skin surface and analysis under the few years before setting up a cosmetic and personal care products testing facility in 2009. Emanuela is also be caused by demodex mites. microscope at different magnifications. enthusiastic about improving the quality of cosmetic Evidence of a correlation between Testing takes just a few minutes and and personal care products’ research in Australia through science. demodex infection and acne vulgaris results are available in a few hours. This
the science of beauty 21 of the issues associated with demodex mites are slowly gaining momentum on the internet as more people talk about their skin and their symptoms. Not many people know about this mite who lives on our skin. But once they learn more about it through the internet, some rosacea or acne patients are relieved, to an extent, to know that some of their symptoms (for example intense skin redness and itchiness) maybe associated with demodex proliferation. Further research is warranted to establish the effect of certain products on demodex mites associated with some common skin concerns. At the same time, product formulators are presented had confirmed the presence of demodex dermatologists are not always familiar with the opportunity to work on new mites on the skin of trial participants with this issue), on the other end there is preparations designed for people affected (one of the inclusion criteria for the a lot of interest from the general public. by demodex mites. The effectiveness of trial), assessments were reaped after one such products can either be addressed and two months of treatment with the New market for cosmetic and from a cosmetic point of view (product test product. This was a challenging pharmaceutical industries? designed to improve the appearance but also very fascinating trial. We soon Although there are only a few of skin) or therapeutic (remedy to realised that if on one hand there is very products, mostly sold on line, that claim treat demodex mites). Anyone up for a little knowledge about the mites (even to be effective against the mites, some challenge?
22 the science of beauty LYCO N MUST HAVES IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO LOVE JUST ONE!
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ASCC Council Membership testing to marketing to fragrances. President: Matthew Martens The benfi ts of membership are: • Eligibility for various education and travel Vice President: Robert McPherson • Connection to the international cosmetic awards where the prize includes travel Secretary: Trish Maharaj science network through the ASCC’s to present at the IFSCC conferences Treasurer: Henry King affi liation with the International Federation or congresses (held on alternate years Immediate Past President: Jenny Brown of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists around the world). Registrar: Julia Hudson (IFSCC) and the Asian Society of Cosmetic • So much more . . . Publicity Offi cer: Belinda Carli Chemists (ASCS). Education Offi cer: Iman Irhimeh • Members’ rates for regular lectures, Membership is open to individuals working Parliamentarian: Margaret Smith seminars, workshops, networking in/or interested in the cosmetics, toiletries Councillors: Julian Jones functions and internationally attended and perfumery industries. Our members annual conference. Administration Coordinator: Kate Paulett branch beyond Formulation Chemists to • Complimentary subscription to The include Brand Owners, CEOs, Marketers, Science of Beauty magazine and the SCC Sales Professionals, Students, Claim NSW Chapter E-Newsletters. Substantiation Experts, Academics, Chairperson: Marie Toyne • Direct access to the latest news on relevant Production Personel through to Business Vice Chairperson: Robert McPherson products, services and technologies. Advisors. All new members are invited to Secretary: Lynne Mitchell • Tapping into a veritable expertise database attend their fi rst lecture diner free-of-charge, Treasurer: John Warby from formulating to packaging, to product so visit www.ascc.com.au to join now. Publicity Offi cer: Marianne Cochennec Committee Members: Jenny Brown, Julia Hudson , Pato Arlegui, Andrew Sepansky
Southern Chapter Chairperson: Margaret Smith Registrar: Nicholas Urquhart Committee Members: Julian Jones, Barry Hunt, Frank Arrigo, Jerry Wang, Matthew Martens, Iman Irhimeh, Helen Pearce
Queensland Chapter Chairperson: Belinda Carli
Technical Committee Chairperson: John Warby Vice Chairperson: Ric Williams Secretary: Nick Urquhart Technical Editor: Pam Jones Committee Members: Marilyn Jones, Joan Chiu, John Staton, Malie Zauber
24 the science of beauty success story
Barbara Filokostas
From an early age, Barbara Filokostas was especially fascinated by the radiance of her grandmother’s skin, who was an avid olive oil user and had few wrinkles even in her 70’s, stating: “I have always had a connection to olives from my youth – I was bathed in olive oil as a baby, consumed it daily and in my hair at night”. “I knew in my heart and spirit there was a secret ingredient found in the humble olive that would keep my skin youthful, soft and supple. FBy the age of 10, I was helping Yiayia make compresses and tonics with an olive base. This inspired me to study science at university and
later naturopathy.” ‘botanical’, which in Greek means ‘plant’ While most 20 year olds enjoy or ‘herb’. exploring the world, Filokostas spent In 2001, Barbara’s use of Olive her youth exploring the chemistry of Squalene combined with the purest and her ‘humble’ olive to inevitably discover high grade natural ingredients saw the a key constituent of olive oil, Olive multi-purpose serum and anti-irritant Squalene – the perfect skin moisturising released on the Australian market – companion that replicates the molecular quickly establishing Botani in the structure of the human sebum. Australian marketplace as a leader in In her own Naturopathy clinical high performance natural skincare, with practice, clients repeatedly presented growing export demand and committed with 3 major skin issues: acne, fungal national stockists. infections and dehydrated skin. Today, Barbara’s commitment and Acutely aware of the physical and passion has delivered a tailored range of psychological impacts of these skin over 20 items - including TGA approved conditions made, Botani was created to anti fungal and antiseptic products, promote healthy skin to support one’s and it is sold in Australia, Hong Kong, happiness, self confidence and wellbeing, Malaysia, Russia, Germany and Poland. inspired by the healing properties of the The skin care range now includes over olive. 20 products. Pioneering in the natural skincare Made in Australia – Premium sector, the Botani range was founded on Plant actives and Organic Certified Hippocratic medicine (vis medicatrix ingredients. naturae – healing powers of nature), No Animal testing, vegan friendly, nut and Botani is derived from the word free.
the science of beauty 25 John Staton SUPPORTING SKINCARE CLAIMS Dermatest Pty Ltd Sydney, Australia No. 19 Acne Study STEPS Comedone Count and 1. Measurement Classification Supportable Claims • Reduction in Severity Comedogencity Test • Acne Treatment Thrice weekly, 0.2 to 0.5mL of the test • Non-comedogenic Claim material is delivered to the test site via syringe. The test sites, each Subjects: Panels of subjects, male measuring 4x4cm are covered with a and female, professionally assessed piece of non-absorbing cotton cloth. as exhibiting acne conditions. The patches are closely secured to Parental consent of minors is the skin by occlusive or semi- obtained. occlusive, hypoallergenic tape using Prior to initiation of a test, each an over-layer of adhesive taping if subject will complete a medical necessary. The procedure is repeated history form. every other day until three applications per week is Subjects are asked to apply the accomplished for a total of four product on affected area as per weeks for occlusive and 6 weeks for sponsor supplied directions. Visual semi-occlusive conditions. Patches counts and classifications of lesions are removed after 48 hour exposure will be done, typically at day 0 (pre- and once weekly after 72 hour 2. Comedone Grading treatment), 2 & 4 weeks. exposure. On removal all sites are cleaned and evaluated for any overt signs of irritation prior to re-patching. sum of all patients’ degree of reaction .
Non-inflammed Whiteheads Blackheads References Percent difference (reduction) in 1. Burke BM, Cunliffe WJ. The separate types (comedones, papules assessment of acne vulgaris - the & pustules) and total count of lesions Leeds technique. Br J Dermatol 1984; are calculated. The skin condition is 111: 83-92 Papules Nodulocystic Lesions evaluated in terms of adverse reactions, such as erythema, itching, 2. Ayres, JD., Mills, OH., Lyssikatos, Measurement by Grading burning, scaling, and irritation. J., Kligman., AM, Groh., DG: 0 = Normal, clear skin with no evidence The overall improvement in skin Assessment of a new method for of acne vulgaris condition is graded using evaluation determining the acnegenic potential 1 = Skin is almost clear: rare non- indices. The grading of efficacy is of topically applied materials on inflammatory lesions expressed as 0 = excellent, >66% human subjects. IFSCC International 2 = Some non-inflammatory lesions are improvement; 1 = very good, 33% to Congress, Yokohama, Japan, October present, with few inflammatory lesions 66% improvement; 2 = good, <33% 13-16, 1992. (papules/pustules only; improvement; and 3 = no change. The no nodulo-cystic lesions) weighted mean will be calculated by 3 = Non-inflammatory lesions dividing the sum of all individual predominate, with multiple lesion patient indices by the total number of 4 = Inflammatory lesions are more test subjects. The initial index in all apparent: cases will be 3. 5 = Highly inflammatory lesions predominate: variable number of John Staton is founding Director of Dermatest Pty Ltd, Sydney, comedones Australia and has been conducting SPF testing and skin efficacy and evaluation studies continuously since 1997.
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the science of beauty 27 August 2015
President’s Report
by Matthew Martens
Hasn’t time flown…. It is hard to commenced at Ross Cosmetics 12 over the role of Vice-President with believe that it has already been years ago I would not have imagined enthusiasm and a desire to continue over three months since the ASCS the path that has transpired since. I to refresh and grow the society. Conference in Cairns in April. This have met and continue to meet many Henry King will continue in his role will also be my first report as the new amazing people as a direct result of of Treasurer. With Henry’s wealth of President of the ASCC. Building on my involvement with the ASCC and experience in the industry he has the momentum of holding the first this industry. The ASCC has given been able to ensure the societies Asian Society of Cosmetic Scientists me much but I am very excited of funds are utilised to the best benefit Conference in Australia earlier this what lies ahead and how we can for our members. Registrar for the year I have already seen a significant evolve to meet the ever-changing upcoming term will be Julia Hudson Hshift in our society to a more needs of our industry in Australia and tasked with keeping all members inclusive and dynamic representation globally. and potential members adequately of our industry. But this is only the Any position within the ASCC looked after. Parliamentarian will be beginning. Exciting times are ahead is voluntary and as such requires Margaret Smith given that the future and the ASCC Council is working a significant amount of time and of the ASCC is an area close to diligently to ensure that members energy to continue. I am extremely her heart. Members who attended from all parts of our industry get lucky that I have a great team the AGM at the Conference this fantastic benefit for continuing to behind me both within Council year would have seen Margaret’s be a member of the ASCC. By and the various other committees presentation looking at the Future continually challenging our own that continue to show the passion Direction of the ASCC. Council is thoughts on how and what we do that allows us to organise various embarking on a in depth discussion the society will continue to grow and events of the highest calibre possible surrounding membership and evolve into an organisation that you year after year. As Immediate Past direction of the ASCC and the can be proud to be part of. President, Jenny Brown has left very importance of how this links with It is an incredible honour to be big boots to fill. I can only hope that our current Constitution needs. entrusted with the role of President your guidance and mentorship can Iman Irhimeh will continue on as of the ASCC for the next two years. continue to help implement many Education Officer and continue to For a fresh faced university graduate of the fantastic ideas that have implement ideas such as the recently with very limited knowledge of the been discussed over the last few ratified CPD program. The Education Personal Care industry when I first years. Robert McPherson has taken area will continue to remain an
28 the science of beauty important focus for the ASCC and a great effort and reflects on the meeting to discuss important events how we engage our membership outstanding technical programme throughout the Asian region. As by providing learning opportunities that was offered. Great feedback a direct result of our involvement for all our members. Trish Maharaj has been passed on to me from with the ASCS through holding will take over as Secretary and a large number of attendees and the conference we have been able ensure all communications are the organising committee can to strengthen our ties with our accurate and circulated to the be proud of putting together a neighbouring societies and have had relevant committees. I would like seamless event. I have to thank significant input into the industry. to welcome Belinda Carli on to John Staton from Dermatest and Julian will continue to represent Council as our newest member Dr Silvia Pastor from Lubrizol for the ASCC by attending the IFSCC who along with Julian Jones will be winning the Jack Jacobs and Lester Conference in Zurich in September responsible for publicity. This will Conrad Awards respectively. It was and we look forward to hearing a be an extremely important role over also at the Cairns conference that roundup of these discussions. the next few years as we look to we saw the announcement for the Our Chapter committees have improve the visibility of the society 2016 ASCC Conference which will been busy continuing on the energy and provide increased resources to be held in Hobart from April 27-29, from the conference by organising our membership through upgrading 2016. I know that Iman Irhimeh as some fantastic lecture dinners with the website, E-newsletter, social Chairperson and the organising topics including Product Liability media presence, etc. You will start to committee are hard at work planning Insurance, Breakthrough Marketing see some initial small changes come how to “Get to the Point”. Strategies, Emulsifier Free Emulsions through in the next few months with I recently attended the NZSCC and The Role of Vitamins in Skin many more exciting opportunities Conference at the Chateau Tongariro Care, in addition to the Southern coming through shortly. Belinda from 28-311 July. Although the Chapter Suppliers Day. There already comes with fresh enthusiasm and as Conference is a much smaller event some great topics in the pipeline for a successful small business owner than our ASCC Conferences the events in the near future so keep an in the industry and understands New Zealand Society has continued eye out for the ASCC Newsletters how marketing your business is to grow substantially in the last few and the Website for more details. extremely important to get to the years and has also had a significant As a closing thought in my first right audience. I would also like to increase in conference attendance President’s report I would like to take this opportunity to say thank during that time. In the last four thank you all for your contribution you to Robert Angi who recently years they have grown from about to the industry. We are all making farewelled Council to concentrate 26 attendees in 2012 to 81 this year a difference. Whether you hail from on other areas. Robert’s enthusiasm which is a fantastic reflection of a formulation background, raw and commitment over the last few how Sigrid and her committee have material supply, brand owner or even years is to be commended and he worked over the last few years. The a spa owner and beauty therapist has been instrumental in getting the New Zealand industry is extremely we all contribute in some small way Queensland Chapter much more important for us on this side of the to making people feel good about active again. It is also important to Tasman and is truly unique. As a themselves. I think that this is a great thank the continued hard work of sister society we need to ensure thing and will see the Cosmetics, Kate Paulett who continues to be an that we both continue to work Toiletries and Personal Care industry important asset to the success of the closer together as we tackle very thrive in coming years. The ASCC society and who without we would similar issues moving forward and is an organisation which can bring all be much further stretched in our I welcome an increased interaction people from all these sectors of our responsibilities. with our regional partners both in NZ industry together to work, share and The incredible success of the 2015 and further afield throughout Asia. encourage each other. I look forward ASCS Conference in Cairns can be Julian Jones one of our Council to being a part of the adventures that put down to the fantastic work done members, recently visited the CITE await and hope you will join in for the by Huy Nguon and her team. To exhibition in Yokohama, Japan as ride. get an attendance of 350 delegates a representative of the ASCC. At with over 100 international visitors this exhibition the Japanese Society Matthew Martens including the IFSCC Praesidium is hosted all Zone 2 members for a ASCC President
the science of beauty 29 new test on UPLEVITY™ peptide: reshaping the face contour
of the skin (16% increase in overall elasticity) as well as a visible lifting effect of the face contour with a decrease of 0.13 cm. In addition, a self-assessment conducted by the participants regarding the efficacy of the product revealed that 95% of volunteers noticed a more toned skin after using the 2% UPLEVITY™ peptide solution and 90% believed that the treatment offered a firming effect. UPLEVITY™ peptide demonstrated its firming and anti-sagging efficacy as the perfect ally in counteracting the force of gravity.
For more info contact Lipotec Pty. Ltd, 28 River Street Silverwater, NSW 2128 Australia Lipotec has performed a new test on its results were observed: improved skin Robert McPherson successful UPLEVITY™ peptide. This firmness (25.2% decreased maximal Account Manager – Australia & New Zealand Tel: +61 (02) 9741 5237 / Mobile Phone: +61 (0) 488 tetrapeptide counteracts the sagging and deformation), enhanced general elasticity 588 171 aging effects on the skin by increasing collagen and functional elastin synthesis. UPLEVITY™ peptide solution VISIBLY RESHAPES THE CONTOUR OF THE FACE It further contributes to skin firmness 0 days 56 by overexpressing genes involved in cellular cohesion due to focal adhesions (FAs) that are the interference between the actin cytoskeleton and extracellular matrix (ECM). The result is an improved quality of mature skin. In the new in vivo study, a group of 40-60 year old women with saggy skin and loss of elasticity on the face applied cream with 2% UPLEVITY™ peptide solution twice a day for 56 days. At the end of the treatment, the following
30 the science of beauty Supporting product innovation
Formulation Analytical Validation Stability Studies New Product Development TecTeTecchnihnicalcaalal CoConnsusultalltttancyncncy SeS rvir ccesess PtyLy Ltd
the science of beauty 31 ssununscreen
highlights by John Staton
Sunscreen – cosmetic or cherapeutic?
A current Hot Topic under discussion industry associations, including ASCC, A TGA – Industry Working Group on and negotiation between Australian but TGA had indicated difficulty in GMP (TIWGG) has been set up and is industry associations and TGA is the auditing to a code, which was at variance currently discussing options. regulatory status of sunscreens. It with the PIC/S GMP code in use in would appear that the main driver of many countries by mutual agreement. What is the right SPF this interest is the issue relating to costs A new version of PIC/S(1) is soon to be for a Sunscreen? involved for compliance with Australian implemented, moving this guide further An on line survey of subscribers requirements, which are above those of still from the Sunscreen GMP Code. conducted by ConsumerReports.Org(3) most parts of the World. The TGA and NICNAS recognized in USA asked a simple question… definition(2) of therapeutic includes two ”Which SPF sunscreen respondents Region Classifi cation clauses which capture sun protection… typically use?” Last time I checked, the Australia Therapeutic (a) preventing, diagnosing, curing or results looked like this… New Zealand Cosmetic -> Therapeutic alleviating a disease, ailment, defect European Union 28 Cosmetic or injury India Cosmetic (b) influencing, inhibiting or modifying China Therapeutic a physiological process Japan Cosmetic At present, SPF 15 skin care products Taiwan Medicated Cosmetics are Secondary Sunscreens, but many Korea Functional Cosmetic marketers believe that this cut-off should MERCOSUR 5 Cosmetic be lifted to at least SPF 30. Countering USA Therapeutic this argument is the question of their Canada Therapeutic use at this level as Primary, rather than ASEAN 10 countries Cosmetic Secondary sunscreens. South Africa Cosmetic The issues for personal care product Mexico Cosmetic marketers is the TGA requirements for Chile Cosmetic GMP and premarketing data, particularly Russia Cosmetic stability, make it difficult and expensive The question of the “right” SPF is to achieve a level of compliance which is Previously, TGA applied a GMP regularly asked by consumers. It is even above that in their country of origin and Code, which was specific to sunscreens. more topical since the recent moves to manufacture. This dates from a 1994 negotiation with higher SPF categories. At the U.K.Sun
32 the science of beauty Protection Conference in June this year, Dr. Marc Pissavini, R & D Director, Coty-Lancaster Monaco, addressed this very question and reminded us that the choice is not only a question of labelled SPF and amount applied, but also skin phototype, product spreadability, weather, latitude, altitude and general environmental location. Prof. Brian Diffey(4) has pointed out that SPF 15 rated clothing is adequate to protect and an SPF 15 sunscreen should do the same if applied at 2 mg/ sq cm. However, as this is not the case, an SPF 30 should, in the author’s view, be recommended. This recommendation John Staton, owner should avoid disgruntled consumers who Dermatest and end up with sunburn. TecConsult References 1 PS/INF 69/2014 (Rev. 1) PIC/S GMP Guide Chapter 1 Pharmaceutical Quality System 2 http://www.nicnas.gov.au/chemical- information/cosmetics/therapeutic-goods-and- uses 3 http://www.consumerreports.org JOHN STATON has a background of over 40 years experience in the pharmaceutical and healthcare 4 http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/ industries. John is a life member of the ASCC and serves in a number of industry representative roles regulatory/uvfilters/What-Should-the- with ASMI, ACCORD, TGA and Standards. He is the Australian representative to the ISO Committee on Minimum-Recommended-SPF-Be-to-Avoid- Sunscreen Testing-TC 217. (The committee for development of sunscreen standards). John is also in Sunburn-199882841.html demand as a speaker on the International Conference Circuit.
Revealing the Power of Beauty
At DSM we believe that beauty enriches people’s lives.
DSM Nutritional Products Asia Pacific DSM Distributor in Australia and New Zealand: To reveal beauty’s true power we continually challenge ourselves to 2 Havelock Road, #04-01 Brenntag Australia Pty. Ltd. understand in depth your needs, your brands and people’s beauty Singapore 059763 +LJKHWW5RDG +HDGRIÀFH DVSLUDWLRQVZRUOGZLGH:LWKIRUHVLJKWLPDJLQDWLRQDQGDGHHSO\URRWHG Phone: +65 6632 6617 Highett, 3190 Victoria sense of beauty we connect and leverage our bright science in Skin, Sun Fax: +65 6632 6600 PO Box 84, Highett VIC 3190, Australia and Hair Care to craft transformational beauty care ingredients and Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 3 9559 8333 Fax: +61 3 9532 0802 concepts that are loved. www.dsm.com/personal-care Email: [email protected] www.brenntag-asia.com Together with you we want to create a brighter, more beautiful world for 2IÀFHVDOVRLQ16:4/':$$XFNODQG people today and generations to come.
the science of beauty 33 MASK
by Margaret Smith by THAT Perhaps the most famous mask of all Ancient Egyptian mask). semiprecious stones. This photo of a is the fabulous gold death mask of the Face masks in our times are now turquoise face mask of an Aztec god is ancient Egyptian Pharoh Tutankhamun. hugely popular. There is every one of my favourites. Really, he looks His visage is serene and at rest, and imaginable type of mask that claims more like Bart Simpson on a bad day completely covers for all eternity the to do all sorts of things to ones outer than anything really scary. Turquoise withered, dried up, mummified face layers. They hydrate or tighten or build is not much used in skin care, however slowly turning to dust, that is reality. I collagen, whiten or brighten, calm the claimed mind clarifying benefits can see that we modern European types acne or scars.The modern gold leaf and attributed to turquoise could only are so like the Ancient Egyptains, as colloidal gold mask claims to do all help us all. Precious and semi precious we hold an ideal to the world, hoping these and maybe even give one eternal stones have long had alleged therapeutic no-one will actually notice our skin is life, however I think that so much properties. Our friend Tony Dweck in Pbaggy and blotchy, our teeth yellowing preciousness going down the drain upsets an article on just this subject summarises and broken. Makeup and all those lovely me just a tad. I would want to leave it on some of the elements and their claim to wrinkle removers and smoothers are now forever, just like Tutankhamun, always fame. Thanks Tony. mainstays of the modern womans’ (and shiny and beautiful. some mens’) morning ritual. (Change Entire stores are currently dedicated to that to “mourning ritual” and bingo – the face mask, especially in Asia. It was once very embarrassing to be seen whilst induging in the art of masking, it is now fashionable. Especially with tha aptly named “facebook”, you tube and so many young and old bloogeres showing all and sundry masks for the taking. The easiest old fashioned masks were made from clay “to draw out all sorts of nasty oily and seeping things”. Kaolin clay is has been the most common and is made up of the constituent kaolinite and has the notable composition of aluminium oxide (Al2O3) and silica (SiO2). Coloured and white clays are by far the most popular masks. After plain old clay comes ground up
34 the science of beauty Therapeutic Gemstone Properties This is a topic which may either be believed or treated with skepticism. However, the discovery of Scandinavian amber in a Neolithic grave near Stonehenge in Wiltshire shows that precious stones played a significant role in the culture of these early people and would travel vast distances as traded goods or offerings. Even today, a huge monetary importance is placed on these quality mineral forms and there is a revival in some individual groups with the importance of these stones in health and well-being. Stones should not have any chips or fractures, they should be left as found and not irradiated or dyed. They may be polished or rounded. The list is a fraction of the information widely available. ACD: Perhaps this could be put in a box?
Amazonite: improves self worth and White Moonstone: helps effect and confidence. understanding of other stones by amplifying Amber: lift heaviness and depression. their effect. It balances yin/yang. Amethyst: spiritually uplifting, may improve Moss Agate: to get in touch with nature and communication and used for stomach have plant knowledge. problems. Mother of Pearl: protection. Of the old fashioned but tried and Apatite: to improve communication when there Black Obsidian: a grounding stone, used to true face masks we have the homemade has been a misunderstanding and used to gain insight into a problem. mashed vegetable and fruit series, like fight virus infections. Black Onyx: helps to change bad habits, is a cucumber , strawberry, citrus, avocado, Aquamarine: reminiscent of the sea, stands grounding stone. papaya, banana, tomato, watermelon for love and mercy and recommend for Mexican Onyx: aids better sleep. and on and on. All roughly based on the those in grief. Black Opal: to see inner soul and potential. same fruit acid concept that exfoliates Blue Aventurine: good for circulation and to Opal: to see possibilities and discover a chemically and adds a bit of water at clear congestion. broader view. the same time. Not very easy to have Green Aventurine: physical healing. It is often Fresh Water Pearl: enable the acceptance of used with emerald and frosted quartz. love. as a product, is fresh fruit, so dried Aventurine that is transparent is believed Peridot: Brings the energies from the aura to powder versions are available to just add to be extremely powerful although the the physical body. water and mix. Although I did make a immature transparent aventurine may fade. Poppy Jasper: for positive outlook. reconstituted tomato mask but the smell Cape Amethyst: for inner alignment. Frosted Quartz: for balance and soothing. Carnelian: to balance creativity and mental Rose Quartz: for emotional balance and processes. soothing. Citrine: upliftment and help to process energy Rhodonite: emotional support. in work. Rhodocrosite: for change and used to give Coral: for emotional foundation. confidence during change. Diamond: is for the increase of personal clarity. Ruby: love; opens the heart, helps to overcome Emerald: for physical and emotional healing. fear. Green Fluorite: for hormone balance, such as Sapphire: for mental clarity, clears unwanted PMS and menopause. mental clutter. Purple Rainbow Fluorite: for change. Sodalite: protects from external negative Jade: for relaxation and releasing tension. energy. Kunzite: for emotional support. Sunstone: enhances contemplation, used to Lapis: to understand the mind and connecting remember dreams. the heart and mind. Sugilite: absorbs impurities from the wearer’s Leopardskin Jasper: supposed to bring things aura to uplift me and give greater energy. that are needed. Tanzanite: for changes, uplifts and opens the Mahogany Obsidian: for decision making. heart. Malachite: bring harmony into life. Green Tourmaline: promotes male balance Moldavite: Grounding stone which puts one in and physical healing (not for females). MARG SMITH is the owner of Syndet Works their body. Pink Tourmaline: promotes female balance – an Australian company established in 1984 to and protection. formulate and produce soap free skincare bars. Grey Moonstone: helps the power of other Syndet has developed an enviable reputation for stones powers by cleansing blocks. Tree Agate: introspection, enables wider view custom formulated and manufactured skincare Orange Moonstone: similar to white moonstone of the world with greater clarity. that now extend well beyond the origins of the but less powerful. Unikite: balances physical/emotions. business.
the science of beauty 35 Here again are some contributions to start you off with developing some different sorts of masks. BASF Peel Off Mask (ref SC-FR-13-009-A023) CONTACT – INGREDIENTS PLUS
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight A Water Aqua 53.04 Euxyl K 320 Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 1.00 Propylene Glycol Luviset® One Acrylates/Methacrylamide Copolymer 5.00 D-Panthenol USP Panthenol 1.00 B Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum 0.30 Palmera G995B Glycerin 1.00 C Selvol 205 Polyvinyl Alcohol 12.00 D Eumulgin® SMO 20 Polysorbate 80 0.50 Fragrance Fragrance 0.20 E Luviskol® K 90 Solution PVP 5.00 F Ethanol 96% Alcohol 20.00 G Refl ecks™ Gilded Gold G232L Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides 0.20 of the tomato powder was so off putting, Refl ecks™ Blazing Bronze G270L Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Iron Oxides 0.20 well I needed something to mask it! H Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) Sodium Hydroxide 0.56 Boom tish. Manufacturing process Completely modern concepts include Add phase B, then phase C in phase A and heat at 85°C under stirring. Cool down at my favourite face mask concept, are room temperature then add phases D, E, F and G. Finally, adjust the pH at 6.5 – 7.0 made with PVP, so they dry and then with phase H. you can peel them off...just like the good old days when we got burnt to a cinder Face Mask Sheet CONTACT – AS HARRISON on the beach and peeled one another’s SC-1046 skin off our backs in the evening. Not Kerazyne™ conditions the skin in this facial mask leaving it radiant and glowing. something one ever sees nowadays for The mask provides moisture and radiance for soft, supple skin. Spectrastat™ OEL is a very good reasons! Other types of masks broad spectrum preservation system optimal for wipes and mask sheets. move away from just the face and treat the hands, the hair, the feet and boobs. Ingredients (INCI Name) Trade Name %w/w A Deionized Water 76.40 Marg Smith [email protected] Microcrystalline Cellulose Avicell PC 6112 1.50 B Glycerin 5.00 Again, please do not try the Disodium EDTA 0.10 ancient recipes. All other formula Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol (and) Spectrastat™ OEL1** 1.50 are provided by suppliers and Ethylhexylglycerin while every effort has been made C Butylene Glycol 5.00 to reproduce these formulations Algae Extract3 1.00 correctly, the Publisher cannot Green Tea Extract3 1.00 accept any liability for the Polysorbate 80 0.50 information presented and are Sodium Hyaluronate, 1% Solution4 1.00 provided in good faith, but no Polyester-11 Kerazyne™1* 1.00 warranty is given as to accuracy Cetearyl Isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Emulgade CM5 5.00 of information or results, or Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetyl Palmitate suitability for a particular use, D Skin Care Fragrance 61047266 1.00 nor is freedom from patent Total 100.00 infringement to be inferred. Procedure: Formulations are offered solely for consideration by the 1 Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C. Mix until uniform. participating manufacturers. 2 Heat phase “B” ingredients to 80°C and add to main vessel with propeller mixing. Please contact the supplier 3 Begin cooling and add phase “C” ingredients at 60°C. noted on each formula for more 4 Cool to room temperature while mixing and add phase “D”. information. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES: pH @ 25°C = 6.77 Viscosity @ 25°C (Brookfield RVT; Spindle 2-C @ 10 rpm) = 1,500 cps
36 the science of beauty Sleeping Pack With SYN- TACKS CONTACT – BRENNTAG Procedure:
Phase Ingredient INCI Name % w/w Supplier 1 Disperse Hyaluronic Acid in water and A Water Demineralised Aqua 86.60 let it swell. Add other ingredients of Hyaluronic Acid –BT Sodium Hyaulronate 0.20 DSM / Brenntag phase A and disperse well. EDTA EDTA 0.10 BASF 2 Add part B together and heat up to Aristofl ex Velvet Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-5 1.50 Clariant 70°C. Add to part A and homogenize. B Amphisol K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.30 DSM / Brenntag 3 Add part C while stirring and Lanol 99 Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00 Seppic / B&J homogenize thoroughly again. Lexfeel 7 Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate 2.50 Inolex / AS Harrison C SeraSense SF CM5 Cyclopentasiloxane 0.50 KCC / Brenntag Technical Data Glycerin, Aqua, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyloyl pH: 5.0-5.5 Syn-Tacks Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 3.00 DSM / Brenntag Viscosity (Brookfield RV4/10rpm): Diaminohydroxybutyrate 28700 mPas Valvance Touch 150 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 1.00 DSM / Brenntag Fragrance Parfum 0.30
the science of beauty 37 New Zealand Society ❄ of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Conference 2015 Chateau Tongariro Hotel, Mt Ruapehu. 29th – 31st July 2015
The Conference was held this year conference for next year! ❄at the spectacular Chateau Tongariro Watch out 2016, our committee is up Hotel, National Park (Mt Ruapehu) for the challenge! on the 29th – 31st July 2015 and had Congratulations to Travis Badenhorst the largest attendance of any NZ for The Lester Conrad Award. conference, in recent times. His presentation was of his own The search for synergy between research for his PhD which he has just Science and Nature was truly enjoyable completed at Auckland University. – both in the stunning venue and in Travis presented his topic: Engineering the collaboration of the fully packed Youth – a study on the delivery of the ❄ program of technical and marketing active – GHK-CU. presentations from speakers, who Our society was also very proud attended from around the Asia Pacific to award life memberships to the ❄ region. following people to recognise their As well as a full technical programme, overall contribution to our industry – the conference also involved team building activities which were a Quiz Night, a cosmetic ingredient Mystery Box Challenge and contribution to an artwork which incorporated some cosmetic ingredients. All activities fitted in wonderfully with our conference theme and our stunning location. It was a fantastic opportunity for networking with friends in the cosmetic industry, meeting new and rekindling old friendships. There were even a few surprises with the stunning vocal and guitar duo of Linley Latu and Eve Storer-Blake who serenaded us as we enjoyed our Gala Dinner. Overall, the Conference featured an abundance of invaluable information and networking opportunities and everyone enjoyed their time together. NZSCC President Sigrid Vorwerk with Travis Badenhorst winner of the Lester Conrad The NZSCC Committee is challenged, Award. yet again, to plan an even better Is that Robert McPherson cuddling the snow man. The delegates at the conference. ❄
38 the science of beauty Delegates in one of the sessions Bill Jennings, Terry Simmons and Bruce Barrack. Right: Workshop Congratulations! ❄Below: Snowflake art activity The NZSCC Committee would like to acknowledge all the wonderful sponsors involved for their support of this conference and we humbly thank you all for your attendance and support of ❄the New Zealand Cosmetic Industry.
NZSCC Committee ❄
Peter Gibson and Carine Paporello
Team building, Bianca McCarthy, Gregor Steinhorn, John Crouch, Huia Iti, Ian Foster, Katherine Samplonius, Tania Clarke and Mark Robotham
the science of beauty 39 technicaltechnical
Assessing skin irritation potential of baby personal products using the Thor in vitro baby Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) Model: the Baby VitroDerm by Kevin Roden Amélie Thélu & Sophie Catoire Thor Specialties, Australia Thor Personal Care, France
Abstract the Thor in vitro Baby Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) Model: the Products specifically for babies are now a well-entrenched segment of the Baby VitroDerm personal care market. When developing Introduction personal care products for use on babies the difference between baby skin and Personal care products specifically for adult skin needs to be considered. babies have been around for over a century. Babies are generally more pampered and Possibly the first supplier was Johnson & frequently smothered in more cleansing, Johnson who released Baby powder in moisturising, massaging and soothing 1893 followed by Baby Cream in 1921, personal care products than most adults. Baby Oil in 1938, Baby Lotion in 1942 This excess exposure to personal care and the benchmark for gentle shampoo, products combined with occluding Johnson’s Baby Shampoo in 1953. clothing and skin differences makes baby “For more than a hundred years, new skin more susceptible to problems. mothers have trusted JOHNSON’S® Testing new formulations on Baby products to provide the purest, babies in not a concept even to be gentlest and mildest care for their babies— market segment being developed. This considered so an alternate procedure from the first morning cuddle to the last market has grown considerably and a is required. This paper will describe bedtime kiss.” typical baby personal care range is now the differences between infant and An increase in marketing efforts for composed of up to 15 different products adult skin and present a new epidermis this product type has resulted in a large as shown in Table 1. model developed for use for in vitro Table 1. Typical Baby Personal Care Range toxicity testing of baby products. It will Bath Toilet Nappy Area Skin Care Sun Care compare results of in vitro toxicology Sun protection Foam bath Cleansing milk Nappy cream Face and body cream testing using this newly developed baby cream/lotion epidermis model and the currently Shampoo Cleansing water Liniment Face and body lotion Sun protection stick available adult epidermis model. Hair and body Wet wipes Cold cream Assessing skin irritation potential cleansing gel of baby personal care products using Soap/Syndet Lip balm
40 the science of beauty This increase in interest in baby Skin structure and lips, which appear to be involved products along with Internet sites in light touch sensation. The stratum The skin has 3 main layers, the dermis specifically for “mums and bubs” spinosum also contains Langherans cells, and epidermis and below these the carrying all sorts of warnings about the hypodermis. part of the immune system. toxic effects of chemicals being put onto The epidermis is the outermost The dermis is below the epidermis and our baby’s skin has led more and more layer of the skin and is composed of consists of connective tissue, collagen requests for baby products that are very 4 layers of specialised cells, almost and elastin that provide the strength, mild. entirely keratinocytes; from the inner elasticity and flexibility to the skin. The Recent knowledge from non-invasive to the outer layer: the stratum basale, dermis is the layer harboring the blood in vivo techniques such as fluorescence the stratum spinosum, the stratum and nerve supply for the skin to provide spectroscopy, video microscopy and granulosum and the stratum corneum, the nourishment and waste removal from confocal laser scanning microscopy has The deepest layer, the stratum basale, its own cells as well as for the epidermis, indicated that adult and infant skin is consists of proliferating basal cells that and to provide the sense of touch and different [1]. That is why, it is important move up through the different layers heat. It also contains other structures to better understand the specific changing shape and composition as such as hair follicles, sebaceous glands characteristics and properties of baby’s they undergo multiple stages of cell and sweat glands. skin to develop an epidermis model differentiation. During this process of The hypodermis is the deepest and dedicated to test skin irritation potential differentiation the cells are far from the thickest compartment of the skin. It of baby personal care products. the blood supply as the epidermis is contains larger blood vessels and nerves Infant, from the Latin word avascular and they begin to flatten, than those found in the dermis. It mainly infans, meaning “unable to speak” die and accumulate keratin. The consists of adipocytes separated by loose or “speechless”, is usually defined outermost layer, the stratum corneum connective tissue that act as an energy as the period of nursing which consists of flat and anucleated cells, the reserve, protect against temperatures encompasses the first year after birth corneocytes, which contain high levels changes by insulation and have a shock and is considered synonymous with of keratin. Corneocytes are attached absorber function. baby. Infant is applied differently together through corneodesmosomes by different groups and although it and surrounded by a matrix of lipid to Physiological characteristics appears to be generally taken as a child provide the barrier function of the skin. comparison of baby vs. adult up to 2 years of age, some definitions Much of the barrier function of skin include children up to 3 years of age the skin and its water loss prevention The development of the skin starts in [1-5]. Specific assessment for products capability is provided by the cornified utero during the first trimester. It is a intended for use on children under the cell envelope of cross-linked proteins and gradual process and the level of maturity age of three is required by the European lipids, as well as by the lamellar sheets is a function of the gestational age. regulation 1223/2009 (EU, 2009), so between the cells [6]. The ability of Newborns do not have a fully mature in effect all children under 3 years are the skin to store water largely depends skin and lack mature sebaceous and sweat grouped together. on the formation of the lipid barrier glands. Infant skin continues to undergo a maturation process and the age at Skin functions in the stratum corneum. The protein structure of the horn cells, including which each function reaches maturity is The skin is the largest organ of the the presence of the amino acid arginine, not clearly defined and varies for each human body, a hugely complex organ also affects the ability of the skin to parameter and anatomical region [1]. that performs a number of tasks as set out bind water. These substances, which As infant skin continues to develop in Table 2. occur naturally in the body and bind during the first years of life it is water in the stratum corneum, are called morphologically and structurally Table 2. Functions of Skin natural moisturising factors (NMF) different from adult skin. These Natural protective barrier [7]. It is essential to protect the skin differences of structure and composition - physical injury moisturisation mechanisms to keep it may lead to functional differences as well - pathogenic microbes - chemical agents healthy. and as a consequence, when it comes to - UV radiation The epidermis is not only composed skin care routines, infant skin should not - extreme temperatures of keratinocytes, the basal layer be considered as resilient as adult skin. Helps to prevent fl uid and liquid loss also contains other cells types: the Infant skins unique properties should Sensory perception: temperature, pressure, heat, touch, pain melanocytes that produce melanin, the be carefully taken into consideration for Temperature regulation of the body pigment responsible for skin colour and the formulation of appropriate skin care Key role in metabolism, including vitamin D synthesis and the Merkel cells in large numbers in products [8]. An overview of the major biotransformation of some chemicals touch-sensitive sites such as fingertips similarities and differences between
the science of beauty 41 TTableable 3.3. MMainain ddifferencesifferences bbetweenetween IInfantnfant andand AdultAdult skinskin andand requirementsrequirements [2,[2, 10]10] perturbations in the skin barrier SSkinkin parameterparameter IInfantnfant AAdultdult EEffectffect RRequireequire integrity, cellular changes, and release of ppHH 66,, 5 - 7 5 - 6 ➚ ppotentialotential iinfectionsnfections NNeutraleutral fformulationsormulations various proinflammatory mediators [11]. WWaterater ccontentontent ooff hhigherigher (in(in olderolder The irritant action of a substance llowerower ➚ sskinkin hhydrationydration sstratumtratum corneumcorneum iinfants)nfants) ddrierrier aatt birthbirth depends upon its ability to penetrate the NNaturalatural moisturisingmoisturising Moisturising ffactoractor ((NMF)NMF) llowerower hhigherigher ➚ ddrynessryness outer layers of skin (stratum corneum) formulations cconcentrationoncentration that act as a protective barrier. Organic TTransepidermalransepidermal wwaterater hhigherigher llowerower ➚ wwaterater evaporationevaporation solvents such as acetone can extract lipids llossoss (TEWL)(TEWL) from the stratum corneum, thereby llowerower (7-10(7-10 mmonthonth ➘ hhydro-lipidydro-lipid fi llmm EEmollient,mollient, nnourishingourishing SSurfaceurface llipidsipids ((sebum)sebum) hhigherigher iinfant)nfant) pprotectionrotection fformulationsormulations leading to disruption of the epidermal barrier. Anionic surfactants like sodium SStratumtratum corneumcorneum 3300 % tthinner~7µmhinner~7µm tthicker~10µmhicker~10µm ➚ ppermeabilityermeability Mild, non-irritant formulations lauryl sulphate (SLS) can damage protein PProtectiverotective barrierbarrier ccompetentompetent bbutut wweakereaker ccompetentompetent structures exposing new water binding SSunun protectionprotection MMelaninelanin densitydensity llowerower hhigherigher ➘ UUVV pprotectionrotection sites and causing hyperhydration of the fformulationsormulations stratum corneum and disorganisation of infant and adult skin are set out in Table toxicities of those substances. Lower the lipid bilayers [11]. 3 along with the effect of the differences expression of some metabolic enzymes Once through the protective barrier, and requirements for infant products to in infant skin may result in higher the irritant comes into contact with cater to the special needs of infant skin. internal exposure to certain substances living cells resulting in tissue damage. Infant skin has lower sebum content than occurs in adults. The body’s first response to tissue and thinner stratum corneum than adult damage is a localised acute inflammatory skin so although infant stratum corneum Skin irritation reaction as nearby cells set up a defense is normaly more hydrated it loses Irritant contact dermatitis is the to the invading chemical and speed up its moisture at higher rates than adults [9]. medical term for skin irritation. Irritant removal. The thinner skin barrier in infants is contact dermatitis is common in The disruption of the skin barrier an important aspect as it makes them occupations that involve repeated hand leads to cellular changes and production vulnerable to skin diseases and the most washing or repeated exposure of the of proinflammatory cytokines, common are set out in Table 4. skin to water, food materials, and other such as Interleukin 1-alpha (IL- Infants have a surface area to volume irritants. 1α), which represents an initial step ratio three times that of adults that Skin irritation is a nonspecific in the inflammatory cascade [11]. could easily lead to increased dermal inflammatory reaction with reversible Keratinocytes play an important role in absorption as a proportion of body injuries occurring after a chemical the initiation and perpetuation of skin weight [10]. Furthermore, metabolic exposure and is characterized by inflammatory reactions through the enzymes in the skin perform an erythema, mild edema and scaling. release of and responses to cytokines essential role of transformation of Irritant contact dermatitis is a [12]. Cytokines are a diverse group of some substances altering the potential complex, interlinked process involving soluble proteins and peptides that act as Table 4. Skin conditions of Infants [10] humoral regulators and which modulate
Condition Clinical Signs Key Factors the functional activities of individual Prolonged skin contact with urine and faeces cells and tissues. The precise cytokines/ Irritant Diaper Dermatitis Occlusion of skin by nappy use chemokines activation cascade in Red skin around the Skin wetness Irritant contact dermatitis is still unclear, 50% of babies develop nappy nappy area dermatitis Friction however, it is likely that the primary Disrupting normal skin barrier integrity cytokines involved following irritant Atopic Dermatitis or Common with children who have a family history of asthma, exposure are IL-1α and tumor necrosis Eczema Itchy, red rash that allergies or atopic dermatitis. factor-alpha (TNF-α). The synergistic occurs in response to effects of these two cytokines result 20% of babies develop atopic a trigger May occur on baby’s face as a weepy rash. Over time it dermatitis becomes thick, dry and scaly in the further activation and release
The sun may expose baby’s skin to the risk of damaging of secondary cytokines/chemokines sunburn. including IL-6 and IL-8 [11]. Many Red skin with blisters Infant Sunburn in severe cases. other pro-inflammatory mediators Sunburn acquired in childhood correlates with increasing risk of malignant skin tumors and a variety of other chemokines that attract inflammatory cells may be Bath temperature Skin problem after bath Red rash and dryness involved in the inflammation process Liquid cleanser that compromise skin barrier integrity [13]. The response is proportional to
42 the science of beauty Table 5. Common Skin Irritants, The Dirty Dozen plus some more [14. 15] and eye corrosion, skin phototoxicity, Irritation/Allergy Cause genotoxicity and several others. Soap Irritation pH, lipid removal Human volunteer skin testing can be Allergy Fragrance, dye ethically conducted on personal care Household cleaners Irritation pH, lipid removal product or ingredients as long as the Allergy Fragrance hazard is already substantially understood Fabric dryer sheets Allergy Fragrance [18]. Therefore, generally only mild Cloths Irritation Rough texture, friction substances would be tested for irritation Heat Irritation Sweating in this way. It is easily understandable Latex Allergy that this kind of skin testing is only Fragrances Allergy performed on adults for ethical reasons. Facial creams Irritation Ascorbic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, alpha hydroxy acids Allergy Fragrance, preservatives In vitro testing for skin Plants Allergy irritation Food Allergy In vitro, literally ‘in glass’, toxicity Nickel Allergy testing involves the use of bacterial or Sunscreen Allergy para-aminobenzoic acid mammalian cells to test for the toxicity Bug bites/stings Allergy of chemical substances or mixtures. The Razor burn Irritation Friction growing cells are exposed to the test substances for a given period and assessed the degree of irritation (dose-response), skin. The procedure involves applying a for any effects on the cells. Cells types and the amounts of cytokines produced test substance to the skin of a restrained, appropriate to the desired test can be by keratinocytes in the skin in order conscious animal, and then leaving it for used to give a more specific outcome. to promote and control this early a set amount of time before rinsing it off Research has been ongoing for many inflammatory response vary. and recording its effects using a visual years to develop non-animal tests to A wide range of chemicals can cause scoring system of erythema and oedema. determine the toxicity of chemical skin irritation if they are in contact Tests were usually conducted on the substances. Any test for skin irritation with the unprotected skin in sufficient shaved skin of albino rabbits and involved must be able to differentiate between concentration or duration. the addition of varying concentrations of irritating and non irritating substances. Irritant contact dermatitis is often the substance under test. Testing for skin As previously mentioned, in vivo test confused with allergic contact dermatitis, irritation in animals potentially causes methods for skin irritation potential referred to as sensitisation, which is an them pain and discomfort. Furthermore, rely on visual scoring of skin reactions entirely different condition involving the results are not always predictive for that are the result of complex cellular the immune system reacting to allergens. those found in humans [16]. responses to irritants. For a new Table 5 lists products commonly A number of changes have been alternative method to animal testing suggested as causes of skin irritation. made to the animal test procedure to be validated, any sophisticated in Only three of the causes listed are solely over the years to reduce the number vitro method needs to correlate in vivo due to irritation with three others being of animals involved and reduce the clinical signs with in vitro biochemical either due to either irritation or allergic potential for pain to the animals while measurements. reaction. The remainder are all due to still achieving meaningful results [17]. The European Centre for the allergic reactions. Although the most However, there has long been a desire Validation of Alternative Methods listed possible causes of dermatitis are to develop alternative test methods (ECVAM) and The Organisation due to allergies, this does not indicate for assessing skin irritation that do not for Economic Cooperation and that most cases of skin dermatitis are involve the use of any animals, both for Development (OECD) are responsible caused by allergic reactions. ethical and scientific reasons. The 7th for determining the requirements for Amendment of the European cosmetic test models, approving them for use In vivo testing for skin irritation directive establishes a prohibition to and encouraging their acceptance by The Draize Test is an acute toxicity assess skin irritation on animals since regulatory bodies. Several reconstructed test devised in 1944 by Food and Drug 2004 for finished products and 2009 human epidermis (RHE) models for skin Administration (FDA) toxicologists for ingredients. This amendment irritation potential assessment have been John H. Draize and Jacob M. Spines. support the development of in vitro accepted, including the EpiSkin™ (SM) Although the test was initially used for alternative methods to animal testing to [18], the EpiDerm™ SIT (EPI-200) [19], testing cosmetics it became the standard assess different toxicological endpoints the SkinEthic™ RHE and the LabCyte for testing any chemical for its effect on such as skin and eye irritation, skin EPI-MODEL 24SIT models [20].
the science of beauty 43 All the models consist of an in vitro reconstructed human epidermis from normal human keratinocytes cultured on a carrier membrane. These models are histologically similar to the in vivo human epidermis in cell organisation, the stratification of the epidermis and thickness of each stratum. As a consequence of the absence of visible clinical symptoms in vitro it was necessary to investigate biomarkers as indication that the potential for substances or products to cause irritation to intact skin [16]. The OECD test guideline 439, describes the principles of the test and the quality control criteria that must be respected [20]. The skin irritation potential assessment using developed an in-house reconstructed formulators so further developments to theses epidermis models relies on the human epidermis, called VitroDerm, and the VitroDerm model were conducted to evaluation of skin cytotoxicity that is had adapted the protocol to assess the enable this. If the MTT cell viability test indicated by the death of exposed cells, irritant potential for finished products indicates >50% cell viability, indicating as it is consistent with skin irritation. as requested by formulators [21]. The non irritant, the level of 4 main pro- The test substance is applied onto the Diagram 1 shows the similarities inflammation markers genes expression reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) between the VitroDerm structures when may be determined by polymerase chain surface for the required duration, compared to in vivo human epidermis. reaction (PCR): IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8 and depending on the RHE model. After This protocol tries to mimic the TNFα. This technique is utilized to the treatment, the substance is washed actual contact duration with the skin amplify a single copy or a few copies of off from the RHE surface to stop the so different treatment periods and a piece of DNA to determine whether reaction and following a post- incubation application quantities are used according exposure to the test substance has period a colourimetic assay is performed. to the product type: either leave-on or resulted in an increase in the expression Skin cytotoxicity is measured using the rinse-off products. of genes coding for specific cytokines. enzymatic conversion of a yellow vital ECVAM validated models are only The endpoints for classification of the dye, the MTT 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol- able to distinguish between irritant and test specimens as irritant, mild irritant or 2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium non irritant based on the cytotoxicity non irritant are shown in Table 6. bromide. Only viable cells are able to of the test substance. A desire to also If ≤50% cell viability is obtained the detect mild irritants was requested by sample is considered as irritant and there convert the yellow vital dye into a blue formazan salt. This blue formazan salt is extracted from the reconstructed human epidermis to be quantitatively measured by a spectrophotometer. The percentage of cell viability is determined by comparison with an untreated control reconstructed human epidermis. Irritant substances are identified by their ability to decrease cell viability to ≤ 50%. Skin irritation testing using VitroDerm model The ECVAM validated model and the OCDE test guideline are implemented to assess the skin irritation potential of raw material only. Thor’s In Vitro Toxicology (IVT) Laboratory had
44 the science of beauty Table 6. Irritant Classifi cation by the VitroDerm Model
More than 2 infl ammatory Viability % Classifi cation markers up regulated? NO Non irritant (NI) 50% YES Mild irritant (MI) ≤ 50% Not determined Irritant (I) is no need to measure the inflammatory markers. If there is >50% viability of the cells the test substance is considered non irritant. However, if more than two of the inflammatory markers show up regulation to a ratio of ≥5, that is a five fold increase when compared to an untreated RHE control, then the material is classified as a mild irritant. Skin irritation testing of baby range of personal care products would be obtained when compared sensitive to skin irritation, the same as A number of in vitro methods to test against the use of Adult VitroDerm. seen for infant skin in vivo. skin irritation are currently available The results from tests using 72 baby’s Paired T-test analysis of the data is for testing for skin irritation but they products are shown in Table 7. The presented as Diagram 4 and shows that may not provide accurate information results show that for most products tested while there is a variation in the results on the effect of these products on infant there is no difference in the irritant obtained for the two models based on skin. For ethical reasons, it is difficult classification determined between cell viability alone, when the results to find in vivo information concerning the Adult VitroDerm and the Baby are divided between leave on and rinse infants that may be compared with the VitroDerm. However, for a number of off products the effect in the rinse off available in vitro results. The desire to products the Baby VitroDerm indicates products is much greater. It is likely use more mild ingredients in conjunction the products would be classified as the surfactant content of these products with a re-evaluation of the old notion irritant while the adult model shows is having a significant effect on the that skin is fully matured at birth has them as nonirritant. This indicates that Baby VitroDerm due to the thinner led to the development of a baby human the Baby VitroDerm model is more keratinised layer. reconstructed epidermis model to assess infant skin irritancy. The staff of the Thor IVT laboratories investigated the potential of producing a reconstructed human epidermis model that would be more representative of infant skin. Based on the review of the skin differences between infant and adult (Table 3), the decision was to focus on the essential morphological aspect, that is, the thinner stratum corneum. The result was the development of the Baby VitroDerm model that derived from the previous VitroDerm model. Histological cross section of Baby VitroDerm and VitroDerm (X400, hematoxylin/eosin staining) are shown in Diagram 3. There are obvious variations in the thickness of the stratum corneum (keratin layers). The Baby VitroDerm has been tested to determine if any variation in results
the science of beauty 45 Table 7. Cell viability results from irritation tests on 72 baby personal care products
The results presented in Table 7 Further tests were conducted using leave use of the Baby model classified a wet indicate that the Baby VitroDerm model on and rinse off products. The results are wipe sample as irritant due to cell is more sensitive than the adult model presented in Table 8. viability. Three other products were when looking only at cell viability as an All products were classified as non classified as mild irritant based on up indication of irritancy for infant skin. irritant by the adult model while the regulation of inflammatory marker gene
Table 8. Skin irritation results obtained comparing Adult and Baby VitroDerm models I: Irritant; MI: Mild Irritant; NI: Non Irritant
46 the science of beauty expression. In vivo human patch tests Hervé Ficheux problems/medical/10-common-skin- irritants.htm conducted for some of the samples using Adeline Josseaume [16] Welss T., Basketter D., Schröder K. In vitro skin irritation: fact and future. State of the art adult volunteers showed no irritation Elodie Lambert review of mechanisms and models. Toxicology in indicating the Baby VitroDerm model THOR Químicos de México: vitro (2004), 18: 231-243 has greater sensitivity and is more Fabiola Lopez [17] Nixon GA, Bannan EA, Gaynor TW, Johnston DH, Griffith JF. Evaluation of modified appropriate for use when testing products Andrea Cano methods for determining skin irritation. for use on infant skin. Daniel Mora Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmalogy(1990), 12(2): 127-36 In order to mimic the actual baby Benjamin Rodriguez [18] Cotovio J, Grandidier MH, Portes P, Roguet conditions in the nappy area, the R, Rubinstenn G. The in vitro skin irritation VitroDerm model can be used in Bibliography of chemicals: optimisation of the EPISKIN conjunction with the use of artificial [1] Stamatas G.N., Nikolovski J., Mack M.C., prediction model within the framework of the Kollias N. Infant skin physiology and development ECVAM validation process, Alternatives to Lab urine [23] in an occlusive environment. during the first years of life: a review of recent Animals (2005), 33(4): 329-49. The urine induces a shift of pH, may findings based on in vivo studies. International [19] Kandárová H1, Liebsch M, Gerner I, Schmidt increase the permeability of the skin, journal of cosmetic science (2011), 33: 17-24 E, Genschow E, Traue D, Spielmann H., The [2] Fluhr J., Darlenski R., Taied A., Hachem EpiDerm test protocol for the upcoming ECVAM may directly irritate the skin or interact J-P, Baudouin C., Msika P., De Belilovsky C. validation study on in vitro skin irritation tests--an with personal care products applied to and Berardesca E. Functional skin adaptation assessment of the performance of the optimised test. Alternatives to Lab Animals (2005), 33(4): the nappy area to form new irritants. in infancy- almost complete but not fully competent. John Wiley & sons A/S, Experimental 351-67. Dermatology (2010), 19: 483-492. [20] OECD Guidelines for the testing of chemicals Conclusion [3] Resolution CM/ResAP (2012)1 on safety TG439 adopted 26 july: In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method Infant skin is not the same as an adult criteria for cosmetic products intended for infants (Adopted by the Committee of Ministers on [21] Ficheux H., Catoire S., and Lopez F., Skin skin resulting in a different skin barrier 14 March 2012 at the 1137th meeting of the irritation using VitroDerm model for the personal that continues to develop during the first Ministers’ Deputies) care products classification: Internal validation process, Toxicology Letters (2013), 221: S160 years of life. In consequence, babies may [4] Cosmetic Ingredient review, Dermal penetration and absorption in neonates and infants [22] Degouy A., Gomez-Berrada M-P., Ferret facilitate the development of pathological 2013 P-J., Baby care product development: Artificial urine in vitro assay is useful for cosmetic product condition such as dermatitis and irritant [5] Functional skin adaptation in infancy- almost assessment, Toxicology in vitro (2014), 28: 3-7 contact dermatitis. Respecting the complete but not fully competent. Experimental dermatology (2010),19: 483-492 unique properties of infant skin, risk [6] Nava Dayan. Stratum Corneum: The Role of assessment of personal care products Lipids and Ceramides Chapter 1, http://www. for babies should be considered as a alluredbooks.com/sample_pages/ca_ch1.pdf separate issue – data should not simply be [7] C. LAFFORGUE Epidermal lipids and the stratum corneum Réalités Thérapeutiques en extrapolated from human adult testing. Dermato-Vénérologie • N° 179 - Cahier 2 • A new tool has been developed to Septembre 2008 assess the skin irritation potential of [8] Blume-Peytavi U., Hauser M., Stamatas G., Pathirana D., Garcia Bartels N. Skin care practices products intended for use on infants, the for newborns and infants: reviews of the clinical Baby VitroDerm reconstructed human evidence for best practices. Pediatric dermatology epidermis. (2012), 29 (1): 1-14 Improvement in the prediction of [9] Telosfski L.S, Morello III A.P., Mack Correa M.C., STamatas G.N.The infant skin barrier: can irritation with this new model allows we preserve, protect and enhance the barrier? a better risk assessment during the Dermatology Research and Practice (2012), 2012, article ID 198789. development of baby products and [10] Renwick A.G., Dorne J.L., Walton K. An can be used as a tool to select the analysis of the need for an additional uncertainty most appropriate ingredients during factor for infants and children. Regulatory toxicology and pharmacology (2000), 31:286-296 formulation. [11] Lee HY, Stieger M, Yawalkar N, Kakeda M. Moreover, as this new model is more Cytokines and Chemokines in Irritant Contact prone to cell cytotoxicity as well as Dermatitis. Mediators of inflammation (2013), 2013: e916497. inflammatory markers up regulation, this [12] Daniel J Hogan, MD; Chief Editor: William model could be investigated for its use as D James, MD, Medscape, Irritant Contact a surrogate of sensitive skin. Dermatitis http://emedicine.medscape.com/ article/1049353-overview Acknowledgement [13] http://www.copewithcytokines.de/cope. cgi?key=Immunocytokines We wish to acknowledge the assistance [14] The Dirty Dozen: The 12 Most Common in the preparation of this paper from the Skin Irritants, http://www.webmd.com/skin- problems-and-treatments/features/dirty-dozen staff of the Thor IVT laboratories: [15] How Stuff Works, 10 Common Skin Irritants, THOR Personal Care, France: http://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/
the science of beauty 47 forum formulator’s Part 4 – Formulations used in hair products
by Ric Williams
This column has been prompted by a blog started on a Linked-in site “The in-cosmetics Group” titled “Why is there always conflict between R&D and Marketing Departments? by Belinda Pilmore (IPCS)”
Hair bleaching and colouring To bleach hair one must destroy the colour coming from the cortex pigment From above, the major proportion of cells in the hair cortex is the macrofibril granules (ie the Melanin). The standard (0.05-0.20 um). The macromatrix is for this is Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), probably similar in constitution to the usually at 3.0% in a stabilised water endocuticle in that it is composed of base. No other additives are used in cell remnants. Some cortical cells have such a treatment as Hydrogen Peroxide close packed microfibrils and very little is a powerful oxidising agent and would macromatrix, ie, paracortical cells. destroy most additives considered. The Other cortical cells have less microfibrils colour produced is a white appearance and more continuous matrix, ie. (devoid of any colour). One of the Orthocortical cells. The orthocortex undesirable side effects of peroxide is more accessible to staining and more bleaching is the cleavage of disulfide susceptible to chemical attack than bonds, which weakens the hair causing paracortex. breakage. In a normal bleaching A microscopic examination of the process approximately 15-20% of Negroid hair shows the cortex pigment disulfide links in hair are broken. granules are dark, coarse and have a Hence continual bleaching can cause tendency to be clumped together. In irreparable damage, split ends plus loss mongoloid hair pigment granules may of gloss and condition. Post-bleaching be dark or darker, but are more evenly conditioning treatments are highly distributed. Caucasoid hair usually recommended. exhibits finer, more even pigmentation The white colour from peroxide with light coloured granules. bleaching may not be acceptable hence
48 the science of beauty washes out on the first shampooing. This column is intended not only as an education tool for non-technical people These products use colourants of high or beginners in our industry, but as a molecular weight that are deposited forum for those wishing to enlighten all on the surface of the hair, without about recent technology advances and penetration. new ideas. I hope experienced scientists will also contribute to this ideal and if you Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes wish to do so please email me at: [email protected] This is a very common type of hair dye, with a permanence between that of temporay hair dyes and permanent or cream base, possibly with mild hair dyes. Typically, hair coloured using conditioning additives only. The base is a semi-permanent colourants will tolerate vehicle only for the dispersing of colour between 3 and 6 shampooings, before through the hair. significant colour fading takes place. The Note; If the hair has not been bleached greater degree of permanence takes place with peroxide prior to colour treatment because the dye penetrates into the hair, then only a modification of the current by the process of diffusion, due to its colour is achieved. That is, highlights in small molecular size. by Ric Williams B.Sc.; Dip.Env.St. dark hair or a reasonable change in light Permanent Hair Dyes Cosmepeutics International hair are possible, but you cannot create a blonde out of black hair, unless you Permanent hair dyes provide colour there are many organic colorants that bleach first. to the hair which resists shampooing, have been developed to provide (with mechanical wear and tear (brushing, combinations of these colours) any shade Temporary Hair Dyes combing, etc.) and light. Permanent hair possible. These are usually provided These are colouring products which colorants are based almost exclusively in a simple shampoo, hair conditioner give a colour to the hair, which on oxidation dyes. These are small
the science of beauty 49 molecules that diffuse into the hair, Strength (increasing the strength of Hair Gels where they are coupled to formlarge the outer cuticle layer resisting bending Typical formula is: highly coloured molecules, which cannot – this is the basis of most hair fixatives Purified water 91.05 Carrier diffuse back out of the hair shaft. where the hair holds is position, usually Carbomer 1.00 Thickener & Polymer Triethanolamine 0.25 ph Adjustment Despite which dye you use as hair styled to be away from the scalp giving PVP/VA Copolymer 5.00 Hold Polymer grows the original colour returns. the impression of more hair); Conditioning agent 0.50 Conditioning Solubiliser 2.00 Solubilise fragrance Scientists are still looking a genetic Protection (forming a protective layer Fragrance 0.20 Fragrance modification of hair growth so that a that damaging environmental conditions new hair colour is totally permanent. do not penetrate); Hair Spray Major hair fixatives Repair (where the polymers can Typical formula is: “glue” slit ends together or cover a Ethanol/Water 91.05 Carrier It must be noted that hair fixatives PVP/VA Copolymer 6.50 Hold Polymer damaged section of hair cuticle). 2-Amino-2-Methyl- do not clean hair of dirt or grease or 1-Propanol 1.25 ph Adjustment Moisturisation (by creating a water condition hair but that there main Conditioning agent 0.50 Conditioning impermeable barrier water loss is Wetting agent 0.50 Plasticiser for objective is to keep the hair in a style reduced); polymer that the consumer has set. Apart from Fragrance 0.20 Fragrance standard Hair Fixatives other products Colour (by providing a continuous such as Hair Boosters, Shapers and film on hair additives such as colour Major hair treatments Moulding Muds are just modifications and sparkles can be attached with some Hair Rinse of the standard type for marketing loggevity). Mild / leave-in hair conditioning. purposes. Usually all other ingredients are A typical formulation is similar to hair The major ingredient in a hair fixative designed to carry or make more conditioners but with reduced viscosity, is the long chain polymeric organic cosmetically acceptable the hair fixative, hence reduced emollients, emulsifiers molecules that form films around the hence a hair fixative (except in the case and gel, to reduce the amount deposited hair shaft giving effects such as; of an aerosol) is relatively simple. on the hair.
50 the science of beauty Hair Tonics hair is treated with a mild solution of Ethanol 10.00 Solvent Preservative 0.10 Preservative Hair tonics are usually Ethanol (or hydrogen peroxide, which oxidizes the Dimethicone 10.00 Silicone Hair volatile solvent) based solutions that cysteines back to cystine. These new Relaxant chemical bonds impart the structural Cyclomethicone 10.00 Silicone Hair have minimal emolliency. The active Relaxant Solvent (to be deposited on the hair or scalp) rigidity necessary for a successful perm. Dimethiconol 10.00 Silicone Hair can be Antidandruff, Antiseptic, Anti- However, not as many disulfide bonds Relaxant & Coemulsifier Seborrhea, Hair Loss Reduction, Hair are reformed as there were before the Conditioning agent 0.25 Conditioning density increase (new peptides), Hair permanent. As a result, the hair is weaker Apart from standard products above Colourants (incl. new peptides that than before the permanent was applied others such as Reconstructors, Hair restore the natural colour of hair) and and repeated applications over the Masks, etc. are just modifications of the Hair Stimulants. same spot may eventually cause strand breakage. standard type for marketing purposes. Hot Oil Treatment The sequence involves three steps: Depilatories The purpose is to provide a 1 Setting the hair into the desired shape (curl or straight), Depilatories are based principally on concentrated conditioning treatment 2 Softening and/or swelling of hair with the Calcium, Potassium or Sodium Salts in a unique form. The product has to an alkaline chemical agent (usually of Thioglycolic Acid. By its ability to be warmed before use, not only to melt Ammonium Thioglycollate), cleave the Disulfide linkages between the the myristyl alcohol, but to increase 3 Neutralisation of the softening agent polypeptide chains of Keratin, the major substantivity to hair. Proteins may be with a mild oxidising solutrion or by hair protein, Thioglycolic acid causes the added for a specific protein treatment air oxidation. hair fibre to rapidly degenerate. effect. Air oxidation is a much slower process Depilatories containing Thioglycolic A typical formulation is: and is the process used in the “no- acid are commonly used in alkaline Paraffin Liquid 91.40 Carrier media, pH approximately 12 – below PEG-15 Cocopolyamine 2.50 Conditioning neutraliser” permanent waves. Treatment pH 12 depilation is slow and above Lanolin Oil 2.00 Hair Plasticiser pH 12.5 the risk of skin damage is too Myristyl Alcohol 2.00 Solidifying agent Preservative 1.00 Preservative great. Excess alkalinity is provided by the addition of Potassium, Sodium or Semi permanent and Calcium Hydroxide. permanent waves Alternatively, Thioglycerol may be Semi permanent waves are when From an old ICI Catalogue or “Harry’s used as a depilatory agent. Again excess milder forms of treatment are used and Cosmeticology” a typical formulation of alkalinity is provided by the addition only the salt linkages (weaker binding a Permanent Wave Treatment is: of Potassium, Sodium or Calcium forces in hair strands) are reformed eg. Water q.s. Hydroxide. Emollient/Thickener 20.0% The presence of catalytic trace Emulsifier 10.0% Ammonium Thioglycolate 10.0% metal ions and the high degree of Ammonium Hydroxide to pH 9.3-9.5 chemical reactivity of the depilatory The neutralizer can use (stabilized) formulation can lead to offensive odours dilute Hydrogen Peroxide (1-3%), and undesirable colour formation in Sodium Bromate (5-12%) in a base with the finished product. Inclusion of a emollients and surfactants for aesthetics. sequestrant (such as EDTA), which Permanent waving is where the forms a complex with trace metal ions Cysteine bonds (the stronger bonds in Hair Straightening Gel in the formulation, reduces the tendancy hair strands) are chemically broken, the The action of this product is to add for oxidation of thiol and reduces or hair reshaped and the bonds allowed to a silicone complex that negates to eliminates any colour change or odour reform (after neutralisation). eg. hydrogen bonding between hair fibrils formation. The actual chemistry of perms is thereby relaxing the hold effect in hair where a solution containing ammonium Depilatory Creams bonding. thioglycolate contains free ammonia, A typical formulation is: The active components must be which has a high pH and swells hair, % formulated into a suitable inert base. rendering it permeable. The thioglycolic Polyacrylamide & The level of emulsifiers and emollients Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 3.00 Thickener acid in the perm solution reduces the Cyclomethicone & in these bases must be chosen carefully disulfide cystine bonds in the cortex of Dimethicone Copolyol 5.00 Emulsifier because; Propylene Glycol 10.00 Solvent the hair. In a sense, the thioglycolate Purified Water 21.65 Carrier 1. the product should not penetrate skin removes crosslinks. After washing, the Glycerol 20.00 Solvent but remain on the surface and be able
the science of beauty 51 to be removed easily. Post treatment of skin (after strand rather than chemically degrade 2. too much used may inhibit depilation, depilatories) should be a soft soothing only the part of the hair which is above and cream containing Chamomile or the skin, but is more painful when 3. too little used and the product may be Calendule extracts, Allantoin or removed and much messier. too aggressive to skin. hydrolysed proteins to reduce irritation, Some products use Benzyl Alcohol Creams should be applied to clean, dry and be moderately acidic with a pH of as a preservative as this also has a slight skin and left for 4 – 6 minutes (no longer 4.50 – 6.00 to neutralise any residual anesthetic effect on skin making it less than 10 minutes), before removing with alkaline from the treatment. painful. Other anesthetic agents may be a spatula. used. A typical formulation would be: Depilatory Waxes A typical formulation is: Water Phase Hair removal by this means is not Natural Wood Resins, Purified water 79.75% Carrier Rosin or synthetic Disodium EDTA 0.05% Humectant a chemical destruction of hair but a Rosin 45 – 55% Hair removal Glycerine 2.00% Humectant mechanical removal where the wax is Beeswax, Paraffin melted, applied to the skin by a spatula Wax or other high Oil Phase melting point wax 30 – 50% Carrier “Mineral” Oil and allowed to cool and harden. When Petrolatum, Lanolin (eg Paraffin Oil) 2.00% Emollient Oil or Cocoabutter 5 – 10% Melting point Petrolatum this happens the product traps the hair modifier, emollient (Petroleum Jelly) 1.00% Emollient Skin shafts in its resin / wax matrix, the Benzyl Alcohol 1.00% Preservative, Softener anesthetic Lanolin 1.00% Emollient Skin emollients and humectants (with the Allantoin 0.25% Skin Soothing Softener heating action of the melted wax barrier) Oil Soluble Pigment 0.20% Colour Cetyl & Stearyl Alcohol 5.00% Thickener causing the skin to become soft and Essential oils 0.10% Fragrance Steareth-21 2.00% Emulsifier more ready to release the hair medula, Other Ingredients Potassium and when the wax is removed the hair Thank you. Thioglycolate 5.00% Depilatory shaft is pulled from the skin. This The next issue I will discuss Calcium Hydroxide 0.50% Alkali Potassium Hydroxide 0.80% Alkali to pH 12.5 technique gives better hair removal than “Antiperspirants, Deodorants, Deo- Preservative 1.00% Preservative Depilatories as it removes all the hair Colognes and then onto Perfumes”.
52 the science of beauty technicaltechnical
Topically applied Keratins for Hair and Skin Care Part one: Investigating the use of Oxidized Keratin in the repair of hair by Gill Worth1, Robert Kelly, Gail Krsinic1, Sonya Scott2, and Alisa Roddick-Lanzilotta2 Keraplast Research, P Box 23084, Templeton, Christchurch 8042 New Zealand Ph 64 3 3484130 Email [email protected]
Abstract the beneficial effects of keratin within forming. cosmeceutical products. Beneficial effects Keraplast Technologies manufactures Equation one: Extraction of individual a mix of Keratin proteins extracted of the keratins for hair are analysed keratin proteins (IFP) using Instron measurement of tensile from New Zealand sheep wool using [O] K-[S-S] -K + strength, SEM of fibres and panel x proprietary technologies. The extraction assessment of sensorial properties, and are - - processes maintain the structural 2K-[SSO 3 ]x +2OH compared with results from competitor integrity and functionality of the keratin where K represents the keratin protein proteins and their composite peptides. technologies. The peptides are a hydrolysed form Three general classes of keratins are Introduction of the IFP’s with sizes of less than produced, denoted by the INCI labels 10 kDa. Through the process, these of Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin and Proprietary processes are used in the peptides retain the functionality of the Oxidized Keratin. Each class has a commercial extraction of keratin from sulphonate protected cysteine moiety. different functional activity for both skin virgin New Zealand sheep wool to The production of these keratins (Aitken and hair and provides benefits for both produce three types of keratin protein & Ellis, 2009) is generally described in applications when topically applied. fractions. These extracts are described equation two. The presentation will briefly review by the general INCI names of Keratin, previous research of the biological Hydrolyzed Keratin and Oxidized Equation two: Formation of sulphonated activity of these Keratins when topically keratin, but have unique properties that keratin peptides applied. It will also present recent and differentiate them from other ingredients - enzyme KSSO3 unpublished research. For skin research with the same INCI names, that are peptides + peptides-S-SO - this includes in vivo and in vitro analysis generated via other processes. 3 of activation of keratinocytes, collagen The Keratins are a group of α-keratin Both peptides and IFP’s are capable formation, and antioxidant activity intermediate filament proteins (IFPs) of undergoing cysteine cross-linking which aid in skin health which have been extracted via a process chemistry through the reductive removal and wound healing. Volunteer trials of oxidative sulphitolysis (Kelly et al., of the sulphonate moiety protecting the with finished product formulations 2001) that converts the cystine crosslinks thiol. use a range of analytical measures between the keratin molecules to The third type of keratin extract, such as erythema, hydration, elasticity, sulphonated cysteine (see equation one denoted by the INCI description of TEWL, and tensor effect as measured below)groups. These proteins have a size Oxidized Keratin, are extracted via using silicon profilometry, to present range of 15-85Da and are capable of film an acid oxidation process (Van Dyke,
the science of beauty 53 Blanchard, Timmons, Siller- Jackson, & Oxidized Keratin has been shown to allowing each hair fibre to have similar Smith, 1999), as portrayed in equation be beneficial for skin, particularly in the internal water content. All fibres were three. healing of chronic wounds (Pechter et loaded in the same direction. A variable al., 2012; Than, Smith, Hammond et load was applied at a constant extension Equation three: Formation of oxidized al., 2012). In-vitro and in-vivo studies rate of 20mm/min using an Instron keratins 4204 apparatus until fibre rupture. The [O] have shown that the oxidized keratins Keratin Keratin-SO3H accelerate the epithelisation of wounds fibre elongation and rupture force were
Acid conditions through encouraging the proliferation measured. Accumulated energy levels at 20% of the initial gauge length (20mm), Conditions in this process are such that of keratinocytes and promoting the and at rupture, were also recorded. A the cysteines are converted to cysteic formation of collagen IV and VII (Tang, total of 50 fibres were broken from each acid (K-SO H) and the typical molecular Sierra, Kelly, Kirsner, & Li, 2012). 3 tress. Jaw breaks were discounted. weight is around 15 kDa. While these These collagens are instrumental in the In the first series of experiments, keratins have lost the crosslinking formation and adhesion of the dermal- tresses from two hair samples were put capability of the cysteine amino acids, epidermal junction (Abreu-Velez & through treatment protocols to effect they have other activities as will be Howard, 2012). In several parts of the hair damage representative of repeated described below. world, Oxidized Keratins have become the treatment of choice for sufferers combinations of salon and home hair The Benefits of Keratins of Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) (Than, treatments over a period of time: to Hair and Skin Smith, Cassidy et al., 2012). This genetic Protocol A: A set of hair tresses (Hair I) Peptides and proteins are increasingly disease results in poor development prepared from short dark Caucasian hair, being used in personal care products of the dermal-epidermal junction were bleached, as per the manufacturer’s as their benefits are discovered. Wool with the result that the individual instructions, using a professional 12% proteins are mild, natural, biodegradable continually suffers from blistering and bleaching product containing persulfate and produced by sustainable processes. extensive wounds. Treatment with and peroxide. After bleaching, the hair They have multiple functionalities that Oxidized Keratin can result in a marked was coloured using an oxidative dark red afford them potential benefit for both improvement of the resilience of the permanent hair dye based on 4-amino-2- hair and skin. skin and reduction in the extent and hydroxytoluene, with peroxide base Research into the use of the frequency of these wounds. The demise developer. After dyeing, the hair was sulphonated peptides and keratin of the dermal- epidermal junction in EB rinsed and blow dried. proteins shows that they have a number patients is replicated at a much slower Protocol B: A second set of tresses of benefits for hair. Applied to bleached rate, in the general population as it ages. prepared from long fine wavy hair hair, both IFPs and peptides increase From this we can expect that Oxidized were permed using a home kit based the ability of bleached hair to take up Keratins would be very beneficial as part on ammonium thioglycolate and using water but lower the rate at which water is of an anti-aging skin care treatment. a peroxide neutraliser. The perming added or removed from the hair (Barba, In this paper we focus on the use of solution was left on the hair for 45 Marti M. et al., 2010), helping to avoid Oxidized Keratin in hair and describe minutes. After the perm, the hair was rapid changes in water content and recent research into the use of Oxidized rinsed then blow dried and a leave- the associated hair management issues. keratins in repair applications for hair. in conditioner (containing glyoxyl The sulphonated IFP’s have proved to and quarternium salts) applied. The help with reducing hair breakage and Experimental perming process was repeated twice making hair softer. They also provide All experiments were conducted on more. After perming, the hair was conditioning and benefits for relaxed human hair collected from volunteers. then bleached using a professional 6% hair and for UV protection of colour Hair was prepared into tresses (2g) and bleaching product containing persulfate (Roddick-Lanzilotta A., Kelly R., the cut ends tied together with cotton and peroxide. The bleach process was Scott S., & Chahal S., 2007). Applying thread and then glued. Loose fibres were repeated after washing and drying the a combination of keratins and peptides removed by combing the tresses before hair. improves the mechanical properties of treating them as described below. Once the hair had been processed bleached and permed hair (Barba, Scott using either protocol A or B, a single S. et al., 2010). Tensile Testing tress from each treatment protocol was Research has shown the peptides to be Using a standard method based on then submitted to one of five hair repair beneficial for the hydration and elasticity ISO 5079:1995(E), tensile data was treatments. of skin (Barba et al., 2008) and also obtained for single hair fibres. All hair Four were commercial treatments for the care of fingernails (Barba et al., strands were soaked in distilled water available in salons internationally. 2007). for 30 minutes prior to tensile testing, A fifth treatment entailed a simple
54 the science of beauty aqueous formulation of oxidized keratin conditioning agents, alcohol matched pairs of hair tresses were and hydroxyethyl cellulose. The four conditioning agent, silicones and provided in a blind experiment to a treatments were selected to contain a surfactants. group of hair experts to choose their range of humectants, emollients and Commercial Repair Treatment F preference for these. In this experiment, actives and to represent four different included humectants, plant based the Oxidized Keratin Hair Rescue brands. emollients, tri-amonium conditioning treatment incorporated a conditioning Commercial Repair Treatment A agents, silicones and surfactants. treatment before blow-drying. The six contained a mixture of ingredients After treatment the tresses were sent hair processes were of a range of types including fruit extracts, Vitamin E, for tensile testing. and had been previously processed to a Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolysed hair greater or lesser degree: proteins, silicones, essential oils, Durability of 1 Dark Blonde hair: coloured twice, quaternary ammonium salts, glycolipids Oxidized Hair Treatment using a high lift colour, requiring a and humectants. A set of tresses, prepared from 12% peroxide bleach. Each treatment Commercial Repair Treatment B unprocessed teenage girl’s hair of timed an hour. Applied Oxidized was described as containing Protein Caucasian abstraction (Hair IV), was Keratin treatment after 24 hours. complex extract, Guar gum, used to assess the durability of the 2 Gray hair: coloured twice with Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Arnica, oxidized keratin treatments. As per the permanent colour requiring a 6% (Arnica Montana), Colouring and comparisons with other treatments the bleach. Colour level 4. Each process fragrance. selected hair was twice treated using time for 1 hour. Applied Oxidized Commercial Repair Treatment C 6% bleach followed by three cycles of Keratin treatment after 24 hours. included ingredients such as silicones, perming. 3 Dark blond hair: bleached using a 12% quaternary ammonium salts hydrolysed The untreated and processed hair bleach. Applied Oxidized Keratin plant proteins, vitamin B5, hair tresses were treated with Oxidized treatment immediately after and then a conditioning agents and humectants. Keratin formulation as per the previously repeat application after 24 hours. Commercial Repair Treatment D described process. Tresses were then 4 Virgin brown hair: flat ironed at high included a serum containing oils and a put through a number of hair-washing temperature (420oC) ~ 50 times. mixture of the sulphonated keratin and cycles. Each hair wash cycle included Applied Oxidized Keratin treatment peptides and oxidized keratin, together hand washing and conditioning the immediately after and then a repeat with an intensive treatment conditioner. hair. After each wash the hair was blow application after 24 hours. Once treated with a repair treatment, dried. The individual hair tresses were 5 Gray hair: coloured twice with a portion of each of the hair tresses was subjected to 0, 10, 20 or 30 wash cycles, permanent colour requiring 6% bleach. tested for hair strength. The two sets of and samples then submitted for tensile Each process time for 1 hour. Colour hair tresses were provided by Keraplast to testing. level 7. Applied Oxidized Keratin AgResearch for testing under a double- treatment after 24 hours. blind experiment. Scanning Electron Microscopy 6 Dark blonde hair: permed twice with With a third set of hair tresses a further of Hair Fibres an exothermic permanent wave for 30 minutes each. Applied Oxidized comparison trial was undertaken. The Fibres from untreated hair, and hair Keratin treatment after 72 hours. hair used in these tests was of Caucasian treated with the oxidized keratin, origin, of medium coarseness and had were examined using a Jeol JSM The tresses were pinned as randomised a slight wave. It had clearly undergone 7000F Scanning Electron Microscope pairs onto boards and the panel were previous processing with strands of operating at 10kV. The hair samples were asked to assess each pair on the basis bleached and red hair evident. Half of mounted onto separate metal stubs with of several parameters relating to hair the tresses were used as provided, and the conductive carbon tape. appearance and feel. For each parameter remainder was further processed with These were sputter coated from a gold/ the panel were asked to determine which 6% bleach before applying the repair palladium source to impart conductivity of the two tresses they had a preference treatments. In this trial the Oxidized to the samples. for, or if they could not determine a Keratin was compared with two variants difference between the two tresses. of a fifth professional hair repair brand. Sensorial Testing of Hair Treated with The commercial treatments were each Oxidized Keratin Results and Discussion based on a two-pot system, in which A range of six hair processing Tensile Strength two formulations were combined treatments were used to treat equivalent Hair samples from the heads of four immediately prior to treatment. pairs of hair tresses. One of each volunteers were used in measuring tensile Commercial Repair Treatment E processed pair was then treated with strength of Oxidized Keratin treated hair, included quaternary and tri-ammonium Oxidized Keratin. The resulting compared with hair repair treatments
the science of beauty 55 from five brands, and the durability of the Student T-Test level of significance. These the hair processing (protocol A) reduced Oxidized Keratin treatments. are presented as p values for the result the strength of the hair by almost The results for the tensile strength when compared with the processed hair. 36%; significant at the 99.9% level. measurements of the Oxidized Keratin P-Values: P<0.10 equates to 90% level of For the subsequent repair treatments Gel compared with Commercial Repair significance, P<0.05 is 95%, P<0.01 is there was a trend towards an increase Treatments A –D are given in Table I 99% and P<0.001 is 99.9% significant. in hair strength. These increases are and Table II. In brackets is given the In the first comparative experiment, significant when comparing average peak force measurements against that of the Table I: Tensile testing results for four commercial hair treatments and Oxidized Keratin on permed and bleached hair I processed hair, but significant only for treatments B, D and oxidized keratin Energy at 20% Details Peak force (gF) Total energy (mJ) extension (mJ) when comparing total energy to break. Control hair I 49.99 1.04 2.34 Hair process Protocol B did not have Permed x 3/Bleached 32.1 (P<0.001 compared an immediate negative impact on hair 0.61(P<0.001) 1.85 (P,0.01) 2x6% hair I with control) strength (Table II). However Hair 38.32 (P<0.01 compared Repair Treatment A 0.69 (P<0.01) 1.92 (insignificant increase) Repair Treatments A-C all reduced with the processed hair)) the tensile strength of the hair. Only Repair Treatment B 43.12 (p<0.05) 0.68 (P<0.05) 2.12 (P<0.10) Repair Treatment D and the Oxidized Repair Treatment C 35.57 (P<0.10) 0.65 (insignificant increase) 1.98 (insignificant increase) Keratin gel, both of which contained Oxidized Keratin Gel 38.36 (P<0.01) 0.67 (p<0.05) 2.11 (P<0.10) Oxidized Keratin, did not weaken the 0.62 (insignificant Repair Treatment D 38.26 P<0.01) 2.19 (P<0.05) difference) hair. Of all treatments in this batch, only the Oxidized Keratin Gel significantly Table II: Tensile testing results for four commercial hair treatments and Oxidized Keratin on bleached and coloured hair II improved hair strength. The increase in hair strength was 15% for total energy a Energy at 20% extension a Details Peak force (gF) a Total energy (mJ) (mJ) required to break. Control original hair II 77.66 1.58 3.74 With the third hair sample (Hair III), Bleached12%/Colorx2 76.86 insignificant when the unprocessed hair was used 1.31 (P<0.001) 4.75 (P<0.01) hair II difference to original hair) without further processing (Table III), Repair Treatment A 66.14 (P<0.05) 1.18 (P<0.10) 3.72 (P<0.01) all the treatments appeared to have Repair Treatment B 64.18 (P<0.001) 1.18 (P<0.05) 3.57 (P<0.001) a detrimentaleffect on hair strength. 1.25 (insignificant Repair Treatment C 67.48 (P<0.05) 3.72 (p<0.01) However the difference between the difference) Oxidized Keratin Gel 89.93 (P<0.01) 1.49 (P<0.01) 5.44 (p<0.05) control and the Oxidized Keratin was 75.37 (insignificant 1.32 (insignificant 4.42 (insignificant significant only for the peak force Repair Treatment D difference) difference) difference) (at 95% level), while the differences a P values and insignificant differences are reported, in brackets, and are between the original between the control and both treatments hair and the processed hair and between each treatment and the processed hair. E and F, were significant across all Table III: Tensile Measurements for Hair Sample III, Unprocessed with Oxidized Keratin Gel and three parameters, measured at either Repair Treatments E & F the 99% or the 99.9% level. The tensile Work at 25% extension Sample Peak Force (gF) Total energy (mJ) strength for the Oxidized Keratin (mJ) Gel is significantly better than Repair Hair III as received 119.09 0.69 2.11 Treatment E for Peak force and Total Oxidized Keratin Gel 0.66 Insignificant 1.86 insignificant 106.35 (P<0.05) Treatment difference difference work (at ≥99% significance) while it Treatment E 90.97 (P<0.001) 0.63 (P<0.01) 1.21 (P<0.001) performed better than Repair Treatment Treatment F 97.51 (P<0.001) 0.59 (P<0.001) 1.65 (P<0.01) F for work at 25% extension. For the second set, where Hair III Table IV: Tensile Measurements for Bleached Hair Sample III, Oxidized Keratin Gel and Repair Treatments E & F had been bleached prior to the repair Work at 25% treatments, (Table III) the Oxidized Sample Peak Force (gF) Total energy (mJ) extension (mJ) Keratin Gel gave the best results of the Hair III as received 119.09 0.69 2.11 group across all parameters. The results Hair III Bleached 102.55 (P<0.01) 0.65 (P< 0.05) 1.49 P<0.01) for the Oxidized Keratin Gel were Oxidized Keratin Gel 112.20 Insignificant change 0.68 Insignificant 1.96 (P<0.01) significantly better than the bleached Treatment compared with bleached hair change hair control, for Total work (at 99% 94.65 insignificant 1.58 insignificant Treatment E 0.58 (P<0.05) change difference level) only, but were significantly better 1.42 insignificant than for both Treatments E and F across Treatment F 91.26 (P<0.05) 0.58 (P<0.05) difference all three parameters.
56 the science of beauty Tensile Strength- Peak force Tensile Strength- total energy expected due to the repeated washing 140 2.5 and blow drying process. hair as hair as received The process of bleaching and 120 received 2 then perming the hair had a hugely 100 detrimental impact with a reduction 80 1.5 in hair strength of more than 50%. Applying Oxidized Keratin to the 60 1 damaged hair led to a 26% increase in 40 0.5 hair strength. At 10 washes the strength 20 appeared to increase even further though 0 0 this trend is not statistically significant. control Oxidized Repair Repair control Oxidized Repair Repair sample Keratin Gel Treatment E Treatment F sample Keratin Gel Treatment E Treatment F The impact of Oxidized Keratin reduced over subsequent washes, and at 30 washes Figure 1: Hair III, as received, with repair treatments the hair strength had declined to a value Tensile Strength- Peak force Tensile Strength- total energy equivalent to that of the initial processed 120 2.5 hair. bleached bleached hair 100 hair 2 Visual and Sensorial Testing 80 1.5 A panel of hair stylists were asked to 60 compare seven pairs of tresses where 1 40 one of the tresses had been treated with
20 0.5 Oxidized Keratin. The hair was a range of types and the pairs of tresses were 0 0 unlabelled and randomly arranged. All control Oxidized Repair Repair control Oxidized Repair Repair sample Keratin Gel Treatment E Treatment F sample Keratin Gel Treatment E Treatment F of the hair tresses had been processed Figure 2: Hair III, bleached, with repair treatments through bleaching, perming and/or dyeing. The results are tabulated in Table Durability Testing of Oxidized Keratin of the Oxidized Keratin declined over VII (on next page). For parameters that Treatments using Hair Sample IV the 10, 20 and 30 washes. After 30 included both visual and sensorial factors Treating the hair (sample IV) washes the influence of the Oxidized the results were strongly in favour of with Oxidized Keratin gave rise to a Keratin was no longer evident. The the hair treated with oxidized keratin. 13% increase in hair strength when hair appears to have deteriorated There was a significant improvement in considering peak force. This increase is beyond the original point; however hair damage indicators such as frizz, ends significant at the 99% level. The impact some reduction in hair strength could be damage and shininess. Table V: Durability of Oxidized Keratin Treatment on Unprocessed Hair IV Overall, the results show that for hair wet strength, the Oxidized Keratin gel Energy at 20% of Sample Peak force (gF) Total energy (mJ) extension (mJ) performed at least as well as, and in many Unprocessed hair IV 106.88 1.27 7.59 instances better than, the five brands of hair IV + HR 120.65 1.48 8.05 commercial hair repair systems that were hair IV + HR + 10 Washes 110.42 1.38 7.56 trialled. The durability of the treatment hair IV + HR + 20 Washes 112.42 1.38 8.14 was shown to last between 20 and 30 hair IV + HR + 30 Washes 97.07 1.19 6.94 washes. Combining Oxidized Keratin Gel Table VI: Durability of Oxidized Treatment on Hair IV Permed and Bleached into a treatment that also included Energy at 20% of Sample Peak force (gF) Total energy (mJ) conditioning agents and emollients extension (mJ) Unprocessed hair IV 106.88 1.27 7.59 afforded an overall improvement in Hair IV Bleached 6% 2 x & Perm sensorial and visual properties when 48.92 0.41 2.54 3x compared with untreated hair, for hair Bleached 6% 2 x & Perm 3x + HR 61.87 0.57 4.09 that had previously undergone a variety Bleached 6% 2 x & Perm 3x + HR 68.26 0.54 4.25 of hair processing regimes. + 10 Washes In attempting to explain the process Bleached 6% 2 x & Perm 3x + HR 60.32 0.55 4.40 + 20 Washes by which the Oxidized Keratin increases Bleached 6% 2 x & Perm 3x + HR hair strength and reduced apparent 57.49 0.43 3.76 + 30 Washes damage, we can consider some of the
the science of beauty 57 Table VII: Expert Panel Assessment of Oxidized Keratin Gel Treatment System versus non- penetrate the fibre. rescued samples. Preference between sample pairs The homology between wool keratins % hair with NO % hair with % Could not determine Hair parameter and hair keratin is very high. This Oxidized Keratin Oxidized Keratin between two treatments attribute will facilitate the formation Better Condition 0 98.5 1.5 Stronger Ends 0 100 0 of salt bridges between the amino acids Shinier 1.5 97 1.5 within the oxidized keratins and those Nourished 0 100 0 in the hair fibre. Both the ability to Softer 0 100 0 surround and impregnate the fibre and Silkier 1.5 98.5 0 the anticipated degree of attraction Drier Ends 100 0 0 between the oxidized keratins and the Most Damaged 98.5 0 1.5 hair keratin molecules can explain the Most Frizz 100 0 0 ability of the keratins to improve hair tensile strength and the durability of the treatments. previous research with sulphonated were taken of the Oxidized Keratin keratins. Attaching a fluorescent dye to treatment and compared with the original Conclusions the sulphonated groups of the IFPs and untreated fibre. The results, shown in A simple treatment of Oxidized peptides has identified the ability of the Figure 4, clearly show their presence on Keratin compares favourably with several smaller molecules to penetrate to the the surface of the fibre, obscuring the commercial hair repair treatments in centre of the hair fibre and the ability of cuticle cell structure. As the size of the terms of improving the tensile strength the larger molecules to form a durable oxidized keratins is intermediate to that of the hair. Durability testing indicates coating on the surface of the fibre (Figure of the IFP and peptides, it is likely that that treatment maintains some effect out 3). As part of this study, SEM photos some of the molecules are also able to to 20-30 washes. When the Oxidized Keratin has been combined with conditioning ingredients there is a very clear improvement of both the sensorial and visual properties of the hair. The ability of Oxidized Keratin to improve hair strength is attributable to an ability of the keratins to both impregnate and coat the hair fibre, together with Figure 3: a) Relaxed hair fibres b) With fluorescent labelled sulphonated IFP c) With Fluorescent labelled peptides (Scott et al., 2009) the high degree of homology that wool keratins have with hair keratins. Combining the positive results for hair of Oxidized Keratin described in this paper, with the previously published beneficial effects of Oxidized Keratin should make it an attractive ingredient for inclusion in hair treatments for the benefit of both hair and scalp. Acknowledgements Thanks to Mary Jo Lyle who managed the completion of surveys of the hair tresses samples and assessment of hair characteristics, by the panel of hair industry experts. The endeavours of Chitra Herath, who prepared the hair tresses and undertook the hair treatment protocols and hair repair treatments, and that of Tessa Mackle and Natasha Debenham of AgResearch who undertook the hair tensile work, Figure 4: A, B: Hair fibres before and C, D: After oxidized keratin treatment is gratefully acknowledged. Work
58 the science of beauty completed by AgResearch staff, was from Wool. Skin Research and Technology, 14, 243- Tang, L., Sierra, J. O., Kelly, R., Kirsner, R. S., 248. & Li, J. (2012). Wool-derived Keratin Stimulates undertaken within New Zealand Barba, C., Mendez S., Roddick-Lanzilotta A. Humna Keratinocyte Migration and Types IV and government research programmes D., Kelly R. J., Parra J. L., & Coderch L. (2007). VII Collagen Expression [Electronic Version]. C10X0802, FBP23195 and FBP Wool peptide derivatives for hand care. Journal of Experimental Dermatology: Letter to Editor, 45115. The guidance, inspiration, and Cosmetic Science, 58(2), 99-107C. Than, M. P., Smith, R. A., Cassidy, S., Kelly, Barba, C., Scott S., Roddick-Lanzilotta A., R., Marsh, C., Maderal, A., et al. (2012). Use of dedication of Robert Allen Smith, to Kelly R., Manich A., Parra J. L., et al. (2010). a Keratin-based Hydrogel in the Management of the development of the use of keratins is Restoring important properties with wool keratin Recessive Dystophic Epidermolysis Bullosa. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, Early Online 2012, 1-2. deeply appreciated by the Keraplast staff. proteins and peptides. Fibers and Polymers, 11(7), 1055-1061. Than, M. P., Smith, R. S., Hammond, C., Kelly, R., Marsh, C., Maderal, A. D., et al. Kelly, R. J., Worth, G. H., Roddick-Lanzilotta, (2012). Keratin- based Wound Care Products for References A. D., Rankin, D. A., Ellis, G. D., Mesman, P. J. Treatment of Resistant Vascular Wounds. Journal of Abreu-Velez, A. M., & Howard, M. S. (2012). R., et al. (2001). The production of soluble keratin Clinical Aesthetic Dermatology, 5(12), 31-35. Collagen IV in Normal Skin and in Patholoical derivatives. PCT/NZ2002/000125. Van Dyke, M., Blanchard, C., Timmons, S., Processes. North American Journal of Medical Sciences, Pechter, P. M., Gil, J., Valdes, J., Tomic-Canic, Siller-Jackson, A., & Smith, R. (1999). Soluble 4(1), 1-8. M., Pastar, I., Stojadinovic, O., et al. (2012). keratin peptide. US20010047082 A1. Aitken, S. G., & Ellis, G. D. (2009). Soluble Keratin Dressings Speed Epithlialisation of Deep hydrolyzed keratin production. WO 2010114938 Partial-thickness Wounds. Wound Repair and A1. Regeneration, 20, 236-242. Barba, C., Marti M., Roddick-Lanzilotta A., Roddick-Lanzilotta A., Kelly R., Scott S., & Manich A., Parra J. L., & Coderch L. (2010). Chahal S. (2007). New keratin isolates: actives for Effect of wool keratin proteins on hair water natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, sorption kinetics. Journal of Thermal Analytical 58(4), 405-411. Calorimetry, 102, 43-48. Scott, S., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Griffin, P., Barba, C., Mendez, S., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A. Dyer, J., Harland, D., & Walls, R. (2009). Novel D., Kelly, R. J., Parra, J. L., & Coderch, L. (2008). Fluorescent Technique for Labelling Thiol Reactive Cosmetic Effectiveness of Topically Applied Proteins. Paper presented at the IFSCC 20th Hydrolysed Keratin Peptides and Lipids Derived Conference, Melbourne.
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