Impact of Carding Parameters and Draw Frame Doubling on the Properties of Ring Spun Yarn

Abdul Jabbar, Tanveer Hussain, PhD, Abdul Moqeet

National Textile University, Faisalabad, Punjab PAKISTAN

Correspondence to: Tanveer Hussain email: [email protected]

ABSTRACT The impact of card cylinder speed, card production and draw frame delivery speed, and that an increase rate and draw frame doubling on cotton yarn quality in card draft beyond a certain point leads to parameters was investigated by using the Box- deterioration in yarn quality [3]. The percentage of Behnken experimental design. It was found that yarn leading and trailing fiber hooks in the roving fed to tenacity, elongation and hairiness increase by the ring frame also affects the yarn quality. It has increasing the number of draw frame doubling up to a been found that percentage of trailing, leading and certain level and then decrease by further increase in total fiber hooks decrease with the increase in card doubling. Yarn unevenness increased by increasing coiler diameter, card draft, and draw frame delivery card production rate and total yarn imperfections speed [4-5]. increased by decreasing card cylinder speed and increasing card production rate. The effect of lap hank, card draft, speed frame draft, and ring draft on the physical and tensile properties Keywords: Spinning; carding; drawing; cotton yarn of yarns has also been investigated. It was found that yarn spun at higher speed frame draft and INTRODUCTION corresponding lower ring frame draft has better Ring spinning is one of the most commonly used tenacity, breaking elongation and evenness in spun yarn manufacturing technologies for producing comparison to yarn spun at lower speed frame draft high strength carded and combed cotton yarns in the and higher ring frame draft. It was also noted that widest range of linear densities. Various processes card draft followed by lap hank is a major involved in the spinning of carded spun yarn include contributing factor influencing the changes in yarn cleaning and blending cotton in the blow room, properties [6-7]. Increasing carding rate and total carding, breaker and finisher drawing, roving spinning draft improves the yarn strength and formation on the simplex and yarn formation on the evenness, whereas lowering spindle speed results in a ring frame. The effect of different parameters of these stronger and more uniform yarn with fewer processes on the resulting yarn quality, have been imperfections [8]. studied by various researchers in the past. The influence of spindle speed on yarn strength, The effect of fiber opening in the blow room on the breaking elongation, imperfections and hairiness has yarn quality has been studied and it has been found also been investigated. It has been reported that the that increase in fiber opening in the blow room yarn tenacity improves whereas imperfections, results in improvement in yarn tenacity and yarn hairiness and breaking elongation deteriorate with the imperfections (IPI) up to a certain level of opening, increase in spindle speed [9]. The influence of fiber beyond which these parameters deteriorate sharply friction, top arm pressure, and roller settings at [1]. Similarly, fiber openness at carding also results various drafting stages, namely, draw frame, roving in improvement in yarn irregularity and tenacity only frame, and ring frame has also been studied [10], and up to a certain level and then these parameters it has been found that top arm pressure and roller deteriorate on further increase in fiber openness [2]. settings at all three drafting stages affect the yarn Card draft, coiler diameter and draw frame delivery properties in a similar way, and that fiber-to-fiber speed are also found to have significant effect on friction is a leading factor influencing the tensile yarn properties. It has been reported that yarn properties of ring spun yarn. tenacity, breaking elongation, evenness and hairiness are improved with increase in card coiler diameter

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 72 http://www.jeffjournal.org Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 The carding process has a vital role in the production All yarn samples were prepared by using Reiter C 60 of staple spun yarn and has significant effect on the Card, Reiter SB-2 Breaker Draw Frame, Reiter RSB- properties of the resulting yarn. In addition, drawing 35 Finisher Draw Frame, FA 458ASpeed Frame, and and doubling at the subsequent production stages also FA 1520 Ring Frame. The linear densities of the play an important role in determining the consequent prepared card sliver, finished sliver, and roving were yarn quality. It is evident from the literature review 6.38 ktex, 5.95 ktex, and 0.738 ktex respectively. The that previous work does not reveal the impact of yarn samples of 24tex were prepared from these preparatory process variables such as card cylinder rovings at a spindle speed of 18500 rpm with a twist speed, production rate, and number of draw frame multiplier of 4.54. doubling on the quality of ring spun yarn. This study was carried out to fill this gap using the Box Behnken Before testing, all the prepared yarn samples were statistical design of experiments. conditioned in the laboratory under standard atmospheric conditions of 21±1°C and a relative MATERIALS AND METHOD humidity of 65±2 for 24 h. A Zweigle G 566 Three process variables, card cylinder speed (rpm), hairiness tester was used to measure distribution of card production rate (kg/hr), and number of hairs per unit length on the yarn surface according to doublings at breaker drawing, were selected for ASTM D5647-01. Only the hairiness parameter ‘S3’ experimentation. Coded levels and actual values of (number of hairs greater than 3mm) was considered, these variables are given in Table I. which is known to significantly affect the appearance and performance of yarns. TABLE I. Experimental factors and their levels. Yarn unevenness and imperfections were determined by using Uster Tester-4 according to ASTM D 1425- 96. Total yarn imperfections (IPI) were calculated by adding -50% thin, +50% thick and +200% neps. A Uster Tensojet-4 was used determine the breaking elongation and tenacity of yarn samples according to ASTM D-76.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS The complete Box-Behnken experimental design and the yarn test results are given in Table II. The Yarn samples were prepared according to the experimental design and statistical analyses were combinations of different factor levels as determined performed using the Minitab16® statistical software by Box-Behnken factorial experimental design. Box- package. The regression coefficients and p-values of Behnken is one of the most advanced response all the terms are given in Table III. The terms with p- surface methodology (RSM) experimental designs values less than 0.05 are considered statistically employed to understand the quantitative relationships significant with 95% confidence. The regression between multiple input variables and response equations, considering the actual values of input variables. variables, are given in Table IV for all the response variables. The R2 values give the percentage of Pakistani Cotton with upper half mean length of variation in the response variables that can be 27.18 mm, strength of 31.5 g/tex, elongation of 5.8 % explained by the factors/terms included in the ,and micronaire of 4.6 µg/inch respectively, was used regression equations. The impact of all the factors on to prepare the yarn samples of 24 tex linear density. each response variable is separately discussed in the following sections.

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 73 http://www.jeffjournal.org Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 TABLE II. Box-Behnken experimental design and yarn test results.

S. No. Factors/Input Responses/Output variables x1 x2 x3 Hairiness (S3) Um (%) IPI Elongation (%) Tenacity (RKM) 1 -1 -1 0 1081.1 11.5 426 4.26 18.29 2 1 -1 0 1324.7 11.42 277 4.42 17.97 3 -1 1 0 1222.91 12.16 565 4.42 17.12 4 1 1 0 1224.3 12.02 475 4.28 17.46 5 -1 0 -1 331.4 11.93 491 3.67 17.29 6 1 0 -1 733.9 11.95 382.5 3.63 16.35 7 -1 0 1 485.2 11.91 536 3.69 16.77 8 1 0 1 815.4 11.73 368 3.78 16.11 9 0 -1 -1 1204.5 11.66 332 3.96 16.59 10 0 1 -1 377.5 12.27 612.5 3.62 17.1 11 0 -1 1 1491.6 11.45 332 4.42 15.64 12 0 1 1 466.1 11.95 538.5 3.68 16.54 13 0 0 0 1643 11.76 451 4.4 17.81 14 0 0 0 1579 11.39 340 4.29 17.68 15 0 0 0 1480 11.77 391 4.35 18.11

TABLE III. Regression coefficients for different response variables using coded values of the input variables.

Hairiness (S ) Um% IPI Elongation (%) Tenacity (RKM) Term 3 Coeff. P-Value Coeff. P-Value Coeff. P-Value Coeff. P-Value Coeff. P-Value x1 122.21 0.322 -0.0475 0.402 -64.438 0.011* 0.00875 0.899 -0.1975 0.381 x2 -226.39 0.097 0.2962 0.002* 103.000 0.001* -0.13250 0.100 -0.0337 0.876 x3 76.38 0.523 -0.0962 0.123 103.000 0.751 0.08625 0.246 -0.2838 0.226 2 x1 -323.77 0.105 0.0913 0.286 16.188 0.528 -0.11458 0.289 0.0029 0.993 2 x2 -30.32 0.860 0.0437 0.591 25.563 0.333 0.11292 0.296 -0.1596 0.620 2 x3 -652.09 0.010* 0.1487 0.109 34.188 0.212 -0.53958 0.003* -1.2396 0.009* x1x2 -60.55 0.716 -0.0150 0.846 14.750 0.549 -0.07500 0.456 0.1650 0.595 x1x3 -18.08 0.913 -0.0500 0.526 -14.875 0.545 0.03250 0.741 0.0700 0.819 x2x3 -49.63 0.765 -0.0275 0.723 -18.500 0.457 -0.10000 0.331 0.0975 0.751 *Statistically significant terms

TABLE IV. Regression equations for different response variables using actual values of the input variables.

No. Yarn properties Regression equation R2 (%)

2 2 1 Hairiness -48469.3 +57.13x1 +42.94x2 +8294.22x3 -0.032x1 -0.076x2 83.25 2 -652.09x3 -0.03x1x2 -0.18x1x3 -2.48x2x3 2 -6 2 2 2 Um% 19.58 -0.011x1 +0.007x2 -1.34x3 +9.12x1 *10 +0.0001x2 + 0.148x3 89.49 -6 -4 -7.5x1x2*10 -5x1x3*10 -0.0013x2x3 2 2 2 3 IPI 2653.94 -3.08x1 -7.98x2 -204.19x3 +0.002x1 +0.064x2 +34.18x3 92.41 +0.007x1x2 -0.149x1x3 -0.93x2x3 2 -5 2 2 4 Elongation (%) -23.95 +0.02x1 -0.003x2 +6.80x3 -1.14x1 *10 +0.0003x2 -0.54x3 89.40 -5 -3.75x1x2*10 +0.00032x1x3 -0.005x2x3 2 2 2 5 Tenacity (RKM) -14.22 -0.0149x1 -0.0171x2 +13.54x3 +2.91x1 -3.99x2 -1.24x3 80.24 -5 +8.25x1x2*10 +0.0007x1x3 +0.005x2x3

Yarn Hairiness Surface plots depicting the effect of card production further increase in this parameter. Hairiness is low rate, card cylinder speed, and draw-frame doubling when the draw frame doubling is 5 or 7, while it is on yarn hairiness are given in Figure 1(a, b, c). It is higher when the draw frame doubling is 6. If we look clear from the Figure 1(b, c) that yarn hairiness at Table II, the hairiness values vary from 331.4 to increases with the increase in draw frame doubling 1643 at different combinations of input variables, up to a certain point and then decreases with any with draw frame doubling (x3) being the main

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 74 http://www.jeffjournal.org Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 influencing factor. The average hairiness for The trend in the results may be explained by a experiments with 5 doublings is 661, for decrease in inter-fiber cohesion with the increase in experiments with 6 doublings it is 1365 and for doubling from 5 to 6, due to fibers straightening up to 7 doublings it is 814. This difference is not just a doubling level of 6. Less inter-fiber cohesion allows statistically significant but also practically the fibers to easily come out from the fiber strand leading to increase in yarn hairiness. Beyond the significant. The yarns with high hairiness may result doubling level of 6, fiber parallelization decreases in a greater amount of fabric pilling and surface with an increase in sliver weight resulting in increase fuzziness as compared to the yarns with lower in inter-fiber cohesion. The effect of card production hairiness. rate and cylinder speed on yarn hairiness was not found to be statistically significant with 95% confidence level (p-value > 0.05, Table III).

FIGURE 1. Effect of card cylinder speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling on yarn hairiness.

Yarn Unevenness Figure 2(a, b, c) depicts the effect of card cylinder ring frame contributing to an increase in yarn speed, card production rate, and draw frame doubling unevenness. The effect of card cylinder speed and the on yarn unevenness. It is clear from Figure 2(a, c) draw frame doubling was not found to be statistically that yarn unevenness increases with an increase in the significant (p-value > 0.05, Table III). According to card production rate. As the card production rate is the existing theoretical models published on the increased from 80 to 120 kg/hr, there is a steady effect of doubling on mass irregularity, the yarn increase in the yarn unevenness (Um%) from an unevenness decreases by increasing the number of average value of 11.5 at 80 kg/hr production rate to doublings [11]. This decreasing trend can be seen in 12.1 at 120 kg/hr production rate. It is evident from Figure 2b at 900 rpm. However, the effect was not the trend that the yarn unevenness is directly found to be statistically significant in the present proportional to the card production speed and the study when the number of doubling is increased from spinner should increase the card production rate with 5 to 7. One reason for a little deviation from the caution. The trend in the results can be explained as theoretical models may be that the theoretical models follows: the higher production rate results in poor assume the card production rate and cylinder speed to carding, higher cylinder-loading and more leading be same for different number of doublings while in fiber-hooks in the carded sliver. Ultimately, roving the present study, those factors were also taken as the with higher leading fiber-hooks is forwarded to the input variables.

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FIGURE 2. Effect of card cylinder speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling on yarn unevenness.

Total Yarn Imperfections Surface plots expressing the effect of card production 277 to 612 (see Table II) with different combinations rate, card cylinder speed, and draw frame doubling of input variables is not just statistically significant are shown in Figure 3(a, b, c). It is evident from but also practically significant. A yarn with higher Figure 3 (a, b, c) that total yarn imperfections (IPI) number of yarn imperfections will ultimately result in increase as the card production rate increases from 80 poor fabric appearance. The average value of IPI is kg/hr to 120 kg/hr, and also as the card cylinder 504 with experiments having 700 rpm card speed decreases from 900 rpm to 700 rpm. An cylinder speed, and 375 with experiments having increase in card production rate results in a heavier 900 rpm cylinder speed. Such a difference is operational fiber layer on the card cylinder surface, both statistically and practically significant. higher cylinder loading, and more nep generation due to poor carding action. Hence, the poor carding Similarly, average value of IPI is 341 with action at higher production rate results in higher total experiments having 80kg/hr production rate, and yarn imperfections. The decrease in total 547 with experiments having 120 kg/hr imperfections with the increase in card cylinder speed production. Again, such a difference is both can be explained by good carding and nep removal at statistically and practically significant. Draw the carding stage. At higher carding-cylinder speeds, frame doubling was not found to have a statistically better carding action results in a decrease in total yarn significant effect on total yarn imperfections (p-value imperfections. A variation in total imperfections from > 0.05, Table III).

FIGURE 3. Effect of card cylinder speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling on yarn imperfections (IPI).

Yarn Breaking Elongation lower when the doubling is 5 or 7. This behavior can Figure 4(a, b, c) depicts the effect of card cylinder be explained by the improvement in fiber speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling parallelization due to increase in draft up to 6 on breaking elongation of the yarn. It is clear from doublings. After that when the doubling is further Figure 4(b, c) that as the draw frame doubling increased to 7, fiber parallelization decreases due to increases, breaking elongation of yarn increases upto too large an increase in sliver weight. Increase in a certain point and then decreases with a further fiber parallelization in sliver improves the yarn increase in doubling. Yarn breaking elongation is breaking elongation. The results at different higher when the draw frame doubling is 6, while it is combinations of input variables show a variation in

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 76 http://www.jeffjournal.org Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 elongation from 3.62% to 4.42%. This difference is and higher weaving efficiency. The effect of cylinder not just statistically significant but also practically speed and production rate on yarn breaking significant. The higher the yarn elongation%, the elongation was not found to be statistically better it will be able to withstand stresses during significant (p-value > 0.5, Table III). weaving, resulting in less yarn breakages on the loom

FIGURE 4. Effect of card cylinder speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling on yarn breaking elongation.

Yarn Tenacity Surface plots in Figure 5(a, b, c) show the effect of sliver weight due to the increase in sliver doubling. card cylinder speed, card production rate, and draw Hence, at an appropriate level of doubling of 6, the frame doubling on the yarn tenacity. It can be seen fiber parallelization is optimal, resulting in high yarn from Figure 5(b, c) that the yarn tenacity increases tenacity. Although the improvement in yarn tenacity with an increase in draw frame doubling up to a at 6 doublings does not in itself look much as certain level and then decreases with a further compared to 5 or 7 doublings, when combined with increase in doubling. Yarn tenacity is higher when the simultaneous improvement in yarn elongation as the draw frame doubling is 6, while it is lower when discussed in the previous section, it plays a the doubling is 5 or 7. Sliver doubling improves fiber significant role in reducing the yarn breakages on the straightening and parallelization by the increase in loom, thus increasing weaving efficiency. According draft up to a certain level and beyond that level, fiber to the analysis of variance, the effect of card parallelization decreases with an increase in production rate and card cylinder speed was not found to be statistically significant on the yarn tenacity (p-value > 0.5, Table III).

FIGURE 5. Effect of card cylinder speed, card production rate and draw frame doubling on yarn tenacity.

CONCLUSIONS Increase in card cylinder speed significantly draw frame doublings not only significantly affecst decreases the yarn IPI, without significantly affecting the yarn tenacity and elongation, but also yarn any other yarn parameter. An increase in card hairiness. However, the effect of draw frame production rate results in a significant increase in doubling is not linear. By increasing the number of yarn IPI as well as yarn unevenness. The number of doubling up to a certain level, the yarn tenacity,

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 77 http://www.jeffjournal.org Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 elongation and hairiness increase, but on a further [10] Das, A.; Ishtiaque, S. M.; and Niyogi, R.; increase in number of doubling, the trend is reversed. “Optimization of fiber friction, top arm pressure and roller setting at various drafting ACKNOWLEDGEMENT stages”Textile Research Journal, 76, 2006, The authors would like to thank Mr. Shahzad 913-921. Hashmi, General Manager Best Exports (Pvt) Ltd [11] Martindale, J.G.; “A new method of measuring Faisalabad for providing opportunity and support to the irregularity of yarns with some prepare yarn samples for this study and Mr. Asif observations on the origin of irregularities in Javed General Manager Nishat Mills Ltd unit #1 worsted slivers and yarns”, Journal of the Faisalabad for providing the facility of testing yarn Textile Institute, 36, 1945, T35-47. samples. AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES REFERENCES Abdul Jabbar [1] Ishtiaque, S. M.; Chaudhuri, S.; and Das, A.; Tanveer Hussain, PhD “Influence of fiber openness on processibility Abdul Moqeet of cotton and yarn quality. Part I: Effect of National Textile University blow room parameters” Indian Journal of Sheikhupura Road Fibre & Textile Research, 28, 2003, 399-404. Faisalabad, Punjab 37610 [2] Ishtiaque, S. M.; Chaudhuri, S.; and Das, A.; PAKISTAN “Influence of fiber openness on processibility of cotton and yarn quality. Part II: Effect of carding parameters” Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 28, 2003, 405-410. [3] Ishtiaque, S. M.; Mukhopadhyay, A.; and Kumar, A.; “Influence of drawframe speed and its preparatory on ring yarn properties”Journal of the Textile Institute, 99, 2008, 533-538. [4] Garde, A. R.; Wakankar, V. A.; and Bhaduri, S. N.; “Fiber configuration in sliver and roving and its effect on yarn quality” Textile Research Journal, 31, 1961, 1026-1036. [5] Ishtiaque, S. M.; Mukhopadhyay, A.; and Kumar, A.; “Impact of carding parameters and drawframe speed on fiber axial distribution in ring spun yarn” Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34, 2009, 231-238. [6] Kumar, A.; Ishtiaque, S. M.; and Salhotra, K. R.; “Analysis of spinning process using the Taguchi method. Part IV: Effect of spinning process variables on tensile properties of ring, rotor and air-jet yarns” Journal of the Textile Institute, 97, 2006, 385-390. [7] Kumar, A.; Ishtiaque, S. M.; and Salhotra, K. R.; “Analysis of spinning process using the Taguchi method. Part V: Effect of spinning process variables on physical properties of ring, rotor and air-jet yarns” Journal of the Textile Institute, 97, 2006, 463-473. [8] Lee, J. R.; and Ruppenicker, G. F.; “Effect of precessing variables on the preperties of cotton knitting yarns” Textile Research Journal, 48, 1978, 27-31. [9] Lawal, A. S.; Nkeonye, P. O,; and Anandjiwala, R. D.; “Influence of spindle speed on yarn quality of Flax/Cotton blend” The Open Textile Journal, 4, 2011, 7-12

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