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PSS 5370 Converting Fibers Into Yarn SPINNING SYSTEMS

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Textile Process PSS 5370 1) Spinning ¾ Converting fibers into yarn Converting Fibers into Yarn 2) Weaving/Knitting Mourad Krifa, Ph. D. ¾ Converting yarn to fabric Research Assistant Professor Head of Textile Research 3) Dyeing Dept. of Plant and Soil Science ¾ Applying color to fiber, yarn or fabric 4) Finishing ¾ Applying chemical or mechanical treatments on yarns or fabrics to impart special properties PSS 5370: Converting Fibers into Yarn SPINNING SYSTEMS • There are 4 spinning systems depending on the fiber: SPINNING SYSTEMS The cotton system The worsted system The woollen system The semi-worsted system THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE WORSTED SYSTEM • Most widely used • For fibers with a mean length of 40-200 mm • Fibers with mean fiber length of 15-50 mm • Process for wool, man-made staple fiber and their blends • Process cotton, man-made staple fiber and their blends • Lean yarns with well-defined twist and well- ordered fibers, used in the manufacture of high- • Yarn can be either carded or combed quality apparel fabrics (suitings) 1 THE WOOLLEN SYSTEM THE SEMI-WORSTED SYSTEM • For fibers with a mean length of 25-80 mm • For fibers with a mean length of 75-150 mm • Process for wool, waste fibers, reprocessed • Process for long wool, man-made fibers and fibers, man-made fibers and their blends their blends. • May be used for: • No combing Hand knitting yarn Carpet yarns • Produces coarse yarn for carpets and upholstery Apparel items (women’s dressweare, men’s jackets) fabrics • Hairy, felt-like fabrics because of the fiber arrangement and fullness of the yarns SPINNING SYSTEMS CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN Fundamental Processing steps: Common to all spinning systems Open Clean CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN Align Attenuate Parallelize Twist 2 CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN Wind Package FACTS ABOUT COTTON • Cotton has for long (and still is) the dominant PSS 5370 textile fiber in the world. • Its dominance is being reduced by the competition of manufactured fibers • Cotton is cultivated in many parts of the world but a few countries dominate the market. THE COTTON SYSTEM COTTON MARKET 64,000 54,000 COTTON MARKET 44,000 40,000 35,000 34,000 30,000 24,000 Consumption (1000 tons) 25,000 Cotton (1000 tons) 14,000 20,000 ICAC Consumption15,000 (1000 tons) 4,000 Non-Cotton (1000 tons) 1960 10,000 1962 1964 ICAC 5,000 1966 1968 1970 Cotton share (%) 0 1972 1960 1974 1962 1976 80 1964 1978 1966 1980 1968 1970 1982 70 1972 1984 1974 1986 1976 60 1988 1978 1990 COTTON FIBER PODUCTION: HARVESTING 1980 1982 1992 50 1984 1994 1986 Cotton 1996 1988 Wool 1998 40 1990 Chemical (non-cellulosic) Chemical (cellulosic) 2000 1992 2002 1994 Cotton market share (%) 1996 2004 30 1998 2006 2000 2010 2002 20 2004 2006 Manual Picker Stripper 3 COTTON FIBER PODUCTION: SEED COTTON THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Compressed bale Yarn (bobbin / package) THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE SPINNING MILL From the Bale to the Yarn Raw Material: Highly pressed bales for optimum Roving Roving Ring Spinning transport and storage Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning ¾ Opening transforms the pressed bales into processable Blending material Combing Yarn forming ¾ Cleaning takes place during opening Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning ¾ Opened, cleaned material is processed into yarn Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening Mixing/Feeding Preparation for carding Opening-Cleaning Cleaning/Opening Opening & Cleaning Blowroom Blending Opening the compressed bales of fibers Carding into smaller masses, opening fiber tufts Breaker Drawing progressively into smaller and lighter Lap-winding/Combing flocks, removing trash, dust and foreign Finisher Drawing material. Roving Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning Winding 4 OPENING-CLEANING Hopper Feeder Bale Opening Evener roll Stripper roll • Remove straps and wraps • Side cleaning (contamination, improper e c i t bale handleing) t a l Feed table d e k • Bale opener - Fiber feeder i p S ¾ Parallel hoppers Feed lattice Source: Trutzschler Parallel Hoppers Bale Feeding • Bale opener - Fiber feeder ¾ Parallel hopers ¾ Top feeder Blending: Sandwich mixing Source: McCreight Bale Top Feeder Trützschler Blendomat BDT 020 Bale Opener Take-off unit Source: Trutzschler 5 THE SPINNING MILL Opening & Cleaning Roving Roving Ring Spinning • Bale opener - Fiber feeder Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning • Coarse opener / cleaner Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending ¾ Removal of heavy and large impurities Combing Yarn forming Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning Coarse Opening/Cleaning Rieter UniClean B10 Coarse opener/cleaner Beating / striking Opening & Cleaning Opening & Cleaning Feed funnel Feed duct • Fiber feeder / Bale opener • Coarse opener/cleaner Mixing chamber • Mixing chamber Material suction funnel ¾ Variability within / between bales Opening rolls Source: Trutzschler 6 Principle of Tandem Mixing Trützschler Multi-mixer MCM 6 Source: Trutzschler Opening & Cleaning Mixing & Cleaning • Fiber feeder / Bale opener • Coarse opener / cleaner • Mixing chamber • Fine opener / cleaner ¾ Intensive action: smaller impurities Principle of Cleaning Illustrative Arrangement of a Cleaner Fiber Mote knife Deflector blade Trash, waste Suction hood Spiked roll Coarse saw- Medium saw- Fine saw-tooth tooth roll tooth roll roll Source: Trutzschler 7 Specialized Cleaners Trützschler Dust Trützschler Extraction Cleanomat System Specialized Cleaners Trützschler Securomat SCFO Camera Nozzle Waste suction Specialized Cleaners Cameras Exhaust Nozzles Source: Trützschler Source: Trutzschler 8 Opening & Cleaning: Trash Removal Opening & Cleaning: Dust Removal 160 800 Raw Fiber Card Chute Raw Fiber Card Chute 140 700 120 600 100 500 80 400 60 300 Dust Count / g Count Dust Trash Count / g Count Trash 40 200 20 100 0 0 Cleaning Efficiency Opening & Cleaning: Neps Creation 800 Raw Fiber Card Chute 700 600 500 400 300 Neps Count / g Neps Count 200 100 0 Source: Trützschler Opening & Cleaning: Seed Coat Opening & Cleaning: Fiber Damage Neps 25 40 Raw Fiber Card Chute Raw Fiber Card Chute 20 35 15 30 10 25 Neps Count / g Neps Count 5 20 0 by (%) number Content Fiber Short 15 9 Opening & Cleaning THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM • Opened the compressed bales progressively Compressed bale into small tufts • Mixed / Blended the cotton Opening / Cleaning • Cleaned the cotton • Created imperfections (neps) Fiber Tufts / Flocks • Damaged the fiber (breakage) General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE SPINNING MILL Bale Opening Mixing/Feeding Preparation for carding Opening-Cleaning Cleaning/Opening Blowroom Roving Roving Ring Spinning Blending Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Carding Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending Breaker Drawing Combing Yarn forming Lap-winding/Combing Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning Finisher Drawing Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning Roving Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning Winding THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Carding Carding Carding is the process of individualizing and “The card is the heart of spinning” “parallelizing” the fibers by the action of “Well-carded is half-spun” moving surfaces clothed with wires and teeth. 10 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Carding Carding • Fundamental concept dates from • Reduces fibers to their individual state to enable: the 1770’s 9Arranging and parallelizing the fibers • Production rate increased from 9Creating a linear structure about 5 kg/h to up to 220 kg/h 9Reducing the mass per unit length 9Eliminating impurities and imperfections THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Carding Tasks Carding Requirements ¾ Fiber feeding ¾ Deliver a cohesive structure: Sliver ¾ Fiber opening ÎThe first cohesive product ¾ Fiber combing ¾ Deliver an even sliver: constant mass per unit length ÎFiber individualization & orientation ¾ Minimum sliver faults ¾ Cleaning: trash and dust removal, Î Feed stock must be very even ¾ Neps disentanglement and removal ¾ Short fibers removal ¾ Sliver formation THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD Fiber feeding Opened fiber flocks: Feed Chute Fiber feeding • Raw material supplied from opening room via pipe ducting into the reserve chute of the card Feed Stock Opening / Cleaning • Electronic pressure regulator ensures Reserve Chute constant height of material in the reserve Feed roller • The feed roller pushes the material into Pneumatic conveyors the opening roller Opening roller • The opening roller plucks out fine flocks and ejects them into the feed chute Carding Feed Chute Source: Trutzschler Source: Trutzschler 11 THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD Fiber feeding Opened fiber flocks: Feed Chute Fiber Opening Opening / Cleaning Fiber batt Fiber Batt Feed Chute Licker-in / Carding Taker-in Feeding Arrangement Source: Trutzschler Source: Trutzschler THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD Fiber opening Fiber opening • Licker-in / Taker-in: roller with sawtooth or pin clothing which opens the fiber batt and present it to the carding zones of the • Multiple-roller Licker-in systems Î Progressive action main cylinder • Optimize cleaning: Mote knives Main cylinder • Optimize waste control Fiber batt Licker-in Mote knife Source: Trutzschler THE COTTON CARD THE
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