PSS 5370 Converting Fibers Into Yarn SPINNING SYSTEMS
Textile Process
PSS 5370 1) Spinning ¾ Converting fibers into yarn Converting Fibers into Yarn 2) Weaving/Knitting Mourad Krifa, Ph. D. ¾ Converting yarn to fabric Research Assistant Professor Head of Textile Research 3) Dyeing Dept. of Plant and Soil Science ¾ Applying color to fiber, yarn or fabric 4) Finishing ¾ Applying chemical or mechanical treatments on yarns or fabrics to impart special properties
PSS 5370: Converting Fibers into Yarn SPINNING SYSTEMS
• There are 4 spinning systems depending on the fiber: SPINNING SYSTEMS The cotton system The worsted system The woollen system The semi-worsted system
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE WORSTED SYSTEM
• Most widely used • For fibers with a mean length of 40-200 mm • Fibers with mean fiber length of 15-50 mm • Process for wool, man-made staple fiber and their blends • Process cotton, man-made staple fiber and their blends • Lean yarns with well-defined twist and well- ordered fibers, used in the manufacture of high- • Yarn can be either carded or combed quality apparel fabrics (suitings)
1 THE WOOLLEN SYSTEM THE SEMI-WORSTED SYSTEM
• For fibers with a mean length of 25-80 mm • For fibers with a mean length of 75-150 mm • Process for wool, waste fibers, reprocessed • Process for long wool, man-made fibers and fibers, man-made fibers and their blends their blends. • May be used for: • No combing Hand knitting yarn Carpet yarns • Produces coarse yarn for carpets and upholstery Apparel items (women’s dressweare, men’s jackets) fabrics • Hairy, felt-like fabrics because of the fiber arrangement and fullness of the yarns
SPINNING SYSTEMS CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN
Fundamental Processing steps: Common to all spinning systems Open Clean
CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN
Align Attenuate Parallelize Twist
2 CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN PSS 5370
THE COTTON SYSTEM Wind Package
FACTS ABOUT COTTON COTTON MARKET
40,000
• Cotton has for long (and still is) the dominant 35,000
textile fiber in the world. 30,000
• Its dominance is being reduced by the 25,000 Cotton Wool 20,000 competition of manufactured fibers Chemical (non-cellulosic) Chemical (cellulosic)
15,000 • Cotton is cultivated in many parts of the world Consumption (1000 tons) but a few countries dominate the market. 10,000
5,000
0
0 2 4 6 8 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 8 0 2 4 6 6 6 8 8 9 96 96 96 98 98 00 00 00 ICAC 1 1 1 19 19 1970 1972 1974 197 197 198 1 1 19 19 19 1992 1994 1996 199 200 2 2 2
COTTON MARKET COTTON FIBER PODUCTION: HARVESTING
64,000 80
Cotton (1000 tons) Non-Cotton (1000 tons) Cotton share (%)
54,000 70 Picker
44,000 60
34,000 50 Manual
24,000 40 Cotton market share (%) share market Cotton Consumption (1000 tons) Stripper
14,000 30
4,000 20
2 4 8 2 4 6 0 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 2 6 0 6 7 8 8 8 9 9 97 97 99 00 00 ICAC 1960 19 196 1966 196 1970 1 19 1 1978 19 1982 19 198 19 199 19 1 19 199 2000 2 2004 2 201
3 COTTON FIBER PODUCTION: SEED COTTON THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Compressed bale
Yarn (bobbin / package)
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE SPINNING MILL
From the Bale to the Yarn
Raw Material: Highly pressed bales for optimum Roving Roving Ring Spinning transport and storage Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning ¾ Opening transforms the pressed bales into processable Blending
material Combing Yarn forming
¾ Cleaning takes place during opening Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning ¾ Opened, cleaned material is processed into yarn Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Preparation for carding Opening-Cleaning Cleaning/Opening Opening & Cleaning Blowroom Blending Opening the compressed bales of fibers Carding into smaller masses, opening fiber tufts Breaker Drawing progressively into smaller and lighter Lap-winding/Combing flocks, removing trash, dust and foreign Finisher Drawing material. Roving
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning
Winding
4 OPENING-CLEANING Hopper Feeder
Bale Opening Evener roll Stripper roll
• Remove straps and wraps • Side cleaning (contamination, improper
e c i t bale handleing) t a l Feed table d e k • Bale opener - Fiber feeder i p
S ¾ Parallel hoppers Feed lattice
Source: Trutzschler
Parallel Hoppers Bale Feeding
• Bale opener - Fiber feeder ¾ Parallel hopers ¾ Top feeder
Blending: Sandwich mixing
Source: McCreight
Bale Top Feeder Trützschler Blendomat BDT 020 Bale Opener
Take-off unit Source: Trutzschler
5 THE SPINNING MILL Opening & Cleaning
Roving Roving Ring Spinning • Bale opener - Fiber feeder
Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning • Coarse opener / cleaner Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending ¾ Removal of heavy and large impurities Combing Yarn forming
Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning
Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning
Coarse Opening/Cleaning
Rieter UniClean B10 Coarse opener/cleaner
Beating / striking
Opening & Cleaning Opening & Cleaning
Feed funnel Feed duct
• Fiber feeder / Bale opener
• Coarse opener/cleaner Mixing chamber • Mixing chamber Material suction funnel ¾ Variability within / between bales
Opening rolls Source: Trutzschler
6 Principle of Tandem Mixing Trützschler Multi-mixer MCM 6
Source: Trutzschler
Opening & Cleaning Mixing & Cleaning
• Fiber feeder / Bale opener • Coarse opener / cleaner • Mixing chamber • Fine opener / cleaner ¾ Intensive action: smaller impurities
Principle of Cleaning Illustrative Arrangement of a Cleaner
Fiber Mote knife
Deflector blade Trash, waste
Suction hood Spiked roll Coarse saw- Medium saw- Fine saw-tooth tooth roll tooth roll roll
Source: Trutzschler
7 Specialized Cleaners
Trützschler Dust Trützschler Extraction Cleanomat System
Specialized Cleaners
Trützschler Securomat SCFO Camera
Nozzle
Waste suction
Specialized Cleaners Cameras Exhaust Nozzles
Source: Trützschler
Source: Trutzschler
8 Opening & Cleaning: Trash Removal Opening & Cleaning: Dust Removal
160 800 Raw Fiber Card Chute Raw Fiber Card Chute 140 700
120 600
100 500
80 400
60 300 Dust Count / g Count Dust Trash Count / g Count Trash 40 200
20 100
0 0
Cleaning Efficiency Opening & Cleaning: Neps Creation
800 Raw Fiber Card Chute 700
600
500
400
300 Neps Count / g Count Neps 200
100
0
Source: Trützschler
Opening & Cleaning: Seed Coat Opening & Cleaning: Fiber Damage Neps
25 40 Raw Fiber Card Chute Raw Fiber Card Chute
20 35
15 30
10 25 Neps Count / g Count Neps
5 20
0 by (%) number Content Fiber Short 15
9 Opening & Cleaning THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
• Opened the compressed bales progressively Compressed bale into small tufts • Mixed / Blended the cotton Opening / Cleaning • Cleaned the cotton
• Created imperfections (neps) Fiber Tufts / Flocks • Damaged the fiber (breakage)
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE SPINNING MILL Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Preparation for carding Opening-Cleaning Cleaning/Opening Blowroom Roving Roving Ring Spinning Blending Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Carding Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending Breaker Drawing Combing Yarn forming
Lap-winding/Combing Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning Finisher Drawing Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning Roving
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning
Winding
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Carding Carding
Carding is the process of individualizing and “The card is the heart of spinning” “parallelizing” the fibers by the action of “Well-carded is half-spun” moving surfaces clothed with wires and teeth.
10 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Carding
Carding • Fundamental concept dates from • Reduces fibers to their individual state to enable: the 1770’s 9Arranging and parallelizing the fibers • Production rate increased from 9Creating a linear structure about 5 kg/h to up to 220 kg/h 9Reducing the mass per unit length 9Eliminating impurities and imperfections
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Carding Tasks Carding Requirements
¾ Fiber feeding ¾ Deliver a cohesive structure: Sliver ¾ Fiber opening ÎThe first cohesive product ¾ Fiber combing ¾ Deliver an even sliver: constant mass per unit length ÎFiber individualization & orientation ¾ Minimum sliver faults ¾ Cleaning: trash and dust removal, Î Feed stock must be very even ¾ Neps disentanglement and removal ¾ Short fibers removal ¾ Sliver formation
THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Fiber feeding Opened fiber flocks: Feed Chute Fiber feeding • Raw material supplied from opening room via pipe ducting into the reserve chute of the card Feed Stock Opening / Cleaning • Electronic pressure regulator ensures Reserve Chute constant height of material in the reserve
Feed roller • The feed roller pushes the material into Pneumatic conveyors the opening roller Opening roller
• The opening roller plucks out fine flocks and ejects them into the feed chute Carding
Feed Chute
Source: Trutzschler Source: Trutzschler
11 THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Fiber feeding Opened fiber flocks: Feed Chute Fiber Opening
Opening / Cleaning Fiber batt
Fiber Batt Feed Chute Licker-in /
Carding Taker-in Feeding Arrangement Source: Trutzschler Source: Trutzschler
THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Fiber opening Fiber opening
• Licker-in / Taker-in: roller with sawtooth or pin clothing which opens the fiber batt and present it to the carding zones of the • Multiple-roller Licker-in systems Î Progressive action main cylinder • Optimize cleaning: Mote knives
Main cylinder • Optimize waste control
Fiber batt
Licker-in
Mote knife Source: Trutzschler
THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Fiber transfer / Stripping Fiber Carding • Material is removed from the licker in and transferred to the main • Main cylinder zone cylinder • Multiple carding segments: • No significant opening but fiber straightening between main cylinder and • Straightening effect depends on ratio of speed between the two flats rollers (approx. 1.7 to 2) Revolving flats • Stationary flats: pre-carding and post-carding
• Revolving flats: main Stationary flats carding zone
Main cylinder
Stripping: fiber transfer Source: Trutzschler
12 THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Fiber Carding Fiber Doffing • Revolving flats: • Doffer: takes individual fiber from main cylinder to condenses them into a Web ÎFiber transfer / stripping
Doffer
THE COTTON CARD THE COTTON CARD
Web Detaching Brush roll Sliver Formation • The Stripper roll/Brush roll assembly • The detached web is condensed Condenser removes the web from doffer Stripper roll into a sliver
• The sliver is coiled into cans for storage and transport
Doffer Sliver formation
Source: Trutzschler Source: Trutzschler
THE COTTON CARD Carding: Trash Removal
160 Raw Fiber Card Chute Card Sliver Sliver 140
120
100
80
60 Trash Count / g Count Trash 40
20
0
13 Carding: Dust Removal Carding: Neps Removal
800 800 Raw Fiber Card Chute Card Sliver Raw Fiber Card Chute Card Sliver 700 700
600 600
500 500
400 400
300 300 Dust Count / g Count Dust Neps Count / g Count Neps 200 200
100 100
0 0
Carding: SCN Removal Carding: Fiber Damage / SF Removal
25 40 Raw Fiber Card Chute Card Sliver Raw Fiber Card Chute Card Sliver
20 35
15 30
10 25 Neps Count / g Count Neps
5 20
0 by (%) number Content Fiber Short 15
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Converting Fibers into Yarn
Fibrous structure through the process Compressed bale PREPARATION FOR SPINNING Opening / Cleaning DRAWING Fiber Tufts Trash, Foreign matter Lint Waste
Carding
Card Sliver ¾ Linear Structure
14 THE SPINNING MILL THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Roving Roving Ring Spinning Drawing
Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning The process of doubling, drafting, Blending straightening, aligning the fibers and making Yarn forming Combing them parallel to the central axis of the sliver.
Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning
Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Doubling Combine multiple slivers to form one blended sliver in order to enhance the regularity and uniformity of the fiber strand.
6 ends in Æ Doubling: 6
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Doubling – Averaging effect Doubling – Averaging effect Doubling reduces irregularity by averaging Î Doubling gives an equalizing effect sliver defects: ¾ There is a small probability that thick places or thin places of all slivers will coincide ¾ Defects will tend to be distributed randomly and will compensate for each other ¾ Variations over short-to-medium lengths Doubling: reduces mass variation can be averaged
15 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Doubling Doubling – Blending Blends slivers produced by different cards Can be used to blend different types of fiber (e.g., Enhances fiber blending and corrects lack of cotton and synthetic slivers) homogeneity after blowroom and card room Eliminates fabric defects associated with irregularity: Color streaks, Barré Can be used to blend different types of fiber (e.g., cotton and synthetic slivers)
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Draft Draft – Attenuation Reducing / attenuating the weight per unit The fibers slide against each other, shifting their length of sliver. Reducing the number of fiber relative positions along the sliver axis under the per cross-section. action of pairs of rollers rotating at different speeds
Sliver weight per unit length: grain/yard, ktex 1 grain = 0.06479891 gram 65 grain/yard = 4.6 ktex 20,000 to 40,000 fibers per cross-section El Mogahzy, 2001 Mogahzy, El Number of fibers per cross-section must be gradually Î The fibers are distributed over a greater length reduced Æ Drafting
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Draft – Fiber Alignment Cleaning/Opening ¾ Fibers in the card sliver are not aligned, not parallel Blending to the sliver axis Carding ¾ Drawing corrects orientation deficiency of the card Breaker Drawing sliver Lap-winding/Combing
Finisher Drawing
Roving
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning
Winding
16 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Trützschler Integrated Draw Frame IDF
Drawing
Ideally, Drawing would not be necessary: if the card produced a better sliver
With advances in technology and the tendency to shorten the process, Drawing, as an independent process, may disappear.
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Combing
Cleaning/Opening The process of removing short fibers, Neps, Blending Seed Coat Fragments, and Trash. The waste
Carding material is called “noils”.
Breaker Drawing Range of noils removed is generally 12-15% Lap-winding/Combing by weight of the cotton. Finisher Drawing
Roving ¾ Stronger and more even yarn ¾ High quality products: High value-added Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning
Winding
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Combing Combing ¾ Comber lap preparation • Comber Lap Preparation Sliver Î Comber lap: supply package for the comber
¾ Combing
17 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Truetzschler Comber TCO 1 Combing ¾ Comber lap preparation Comber laps Sliver Î Comber lap: supply package for the comber
¾ Combing
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Combing Combing
• Reduced Short Fiber Content (<12.7 mm) • Reduced Trash and Neps count • Optimized fiber alignment • Reduced sliver mass variation
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Length Distribution After Combing Short Fiber Content After Combing
7 35 Before Combing 6 Combed Combed 30
5
25 4
3 20
2
15 Percentage of fibers (%) fibers of Percentage 1
0 10 0 5 5 1 5 5 5 5 2 5 5 0.5 2 1.5 2 2 0.25 .375 0.75 .875 1 1.25 6 1.75 .125 2.
0.12 0 0.62 0 1. 1.37 1. 1.87 2 2.37 %) Content (SFCn Fiber Short Length category (inch) 5
0
18 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Neps After Combing Trash After Combing 35 120 Before Combing Before Combing Combed Combed 30
100
25
80
20
60
15 Neps (Cnt/g)
40 10 Trash particles particles Trash (Cnt/g)
20 5
0 0
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Combing Combing: Yarn Unevenness
21 • Better spinnabilty: The possibility to Carded Combed 20
produce finer yarn 19 • Better yarn evenness 18 17
16
15 Yarn mass CV% Yarn 14
13
12
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Combing Combing: Yarn Defects 300 Carded Combed 250
• Better spinnabilty: The possibility to 200 produce finer yarn 150 • Better yarn evenness 100 Yarn thin places / km / places thin Yarn 50
• Fewer yarn defects 0
1200 Carded Combed 1000
800
600
400
Yarn thick thick Yarn places / km 200
0
19 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Combing Combing: Tensile Properties
20 Carded Combed • Better spinnabilty: The possibility to 19
produce finer yarn 18
• Better yarn evenness 17
• Fewer yarn defects 16
• Higher yarn strength 15
14 Yarn breaking strength (cN/tex) strength breaking Yarn 13
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Roving Cleaning/Opening
Blending
Carding Drafting & slightly twisting of slivers into a thinner strand. Breaker Drawing
Lap-winding/Combing This process is intermediate between drawing and ring spinning; it is really a “package Finisher Drawing handling” step for ring spinning. Roving Ring Spinning
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning
Winding
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Roving Roving
• Input Material for Ring Spinning ¾ Weight: appropriate draft for spinning (15 to 40) ¾ Twist: impart resistance to the strand to allow handling
20 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Roving Fibrous structure through the process
Compressed Bale
Fiber Tufts
Card Sliver
Drawing Sliver
Roving
Roving ¾ Organized Twisted Linear Structure
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Yarn Forming
Cleaning/Opening Draft Twist Winding
Blending
Carding Spinning Preparation
Breaker Drawing
Lap-winding/Combing (El Mogahzy and Chewning , 2001) Finisher Drawing Formation of Yarns Roving ¾ Draft: Number of fibers
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning Yarn Formation ¾ Twist: Inter-fiber cohesion
Winding Package Formation ¾ Winding / packaging
THE SPINNING MILL THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Early Mechanical Roving Roving Ring Spinning Spinning Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending
Combing Yarn forming
Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning
Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning
14th century
21 THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning Ring Spinning
19th century
Drafting
Twist insertion - packaging
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Drafting Ring Spinning: Drafting
Main-draft zone
Break-draft zone
Draft = Ld / Lf = Vd / Vf = texf / texd
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Yarn Twist Twisting Twist: binding mechanism of spun yarns – cohesion in the fibrous assembly ¾Strength, diameter, flexibility, hairiness, comfort, …
22 Ring Spinning: Spinning Triangle THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Winding
Traveler
Peripheral uncontrolled fibers
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: • Oldest, successful technology Î Conventional Spinning • Low productivity (25 m/min) • Benchmark for quality • Reference for yarn structure (near perfect fiber alignment)
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Ring Spinning (RS) • Oldest, successful technology Drafting, Twisting Î Conventional Spinning Card Sliver RS Yarn • Low productivity (25 m/min) • Benchmark for quality Uninterrupted stream of fibers with gradual attenuation • Reference for yarn structure (near perfect Î Continuous Process fiber alignment) • Continuous process • Used in high-value added applications
23 General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding
Cleaning/Opening
Blending
Ring-spun yarn Carding Spinning Preparation
bobbin Breaker Drawing
Lap-winding/Combing
Finisher Drawing
Roving
Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning Yarn Formation
Winding Package Formation
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Winding Winding Yarn Packages
Ring-spun yarn bobbins
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM Winding: Clearing - Splicing
Winding: Clearing Splice = Defect
Clearing based on: ¾ Defect length, ¾ Mass / Diameter variation ¾ Optical: Diameter ¾ Capacitive: Mass
Defect length Winding: Clearing - Splicing Winding– Clearing of Yarn defects
Defect intensity (mass/diameter) Defect length Defect size (%) Defect size Defect length (cm)
Source: Zellweger Uster
General Outline of Yarn Spinning Process Ring Spinning Cost Breakdown Bale Opening
Mixing/Feeding Winding 9%
Cleaning/Opening Spinning 15% Blending Roving 4% Carding Spinning Preparation Raw Fiber 46%
Breaker Drawing Draw Frame 2 1%
Lap-winding/Combing Comber 7% Finisher Drawing Lapper 1% Roving
Draw Frame 1 Waste Yarn Formation Rotor Spinning Ring Spinning 1% Card Blowroom 8% 5% 3% Winding Package Formation Source: Artzt, 1999
THE SPINNING MILL THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Yarn Forming Draft Twist Winding
Roving Roving Ring Spinning
Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending
Combing Yarn forming
Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning (El Mogahzy and Chewning , 2001) Formation of Yarns Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning ¾ Draft: Number of fibers ¾ Twist: Inter-fiber cohesion Î Non-Conventional Spinning ¾ Winding / packaging Non-Conventional Spinning Open-End Spinning
Individualized • Open-End Process: Fibers ¾ Rotor ¾ Friction • False-Twist Process ¾ Air-Jet ¾ Friction
• Wrapping Process: Hollow Spindle Yarn • …
Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End Rotor Spinning
• Invented in the U.S. Twist insertion • Commercialized in Czechoslovakia in 1967 Rotor Fiber individualization • Changed the paradigm of yarn spinning • Gained a great success in the US and in the world
Sliver
Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End Rotor Spinning
Rotor Rpm Twist = Delivery speed
Rotor Yarn
Opening Roller Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End Rotor Spinning
Open-End Rotor Spinning Online monitoring – clearing yarn defects
Sliver to package Defect size (%) Defect size Defect length (cm)
• Continuously monitors yarn defects
• Eliminates disruptive ones: clearing Source: Zellweger Uster
Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End Rotor Spinning
Moiré
• Periodic yarn defect occurring in a wave length equal to the rotor circumference
• It is caused by dust build up in the rotor groove
Continuously monitors yarn defects Î Detects Moiré Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End Rotor Spinning
Moiré Moiré
Dust particles from the sliver jam in the rotor grove and accumulate to form a brittle deposit Î The deposit forms a defect at each rotor rotation Î Moiré defects are small but detrimental due to periodicity
Open-End Rotor Spinning Non-Conventional Spinning
• Open-End Process: Piecing Carriage ¾ Rotor ¾ Friction ¾ Electrostatic • False-Twist Process ¾ Air-Jet ¾ Friction • Wrapping Process: Hollow Spindle • …
Friction Spinning Friction Spinning
Twist
Yarn formation Friction Spinning Friction Spinning
Textiles for outdoor use, Industrial Multi-component yarn applications:
¾ Transport-/ conveyor belts, ¾ Flame and heat proof fabrics, ¾ Cut proof fabrics, ¾ Asbestos substitute, ¾ Flame retardant seat coverings and carpets
Non-Conventional Spinning Non-Conventional Spinning
• Open-End Process: ¾ Rotor False Twist ¾ Friction ¾ Electrostatic • False-Twist Process ¾ Air-Jet ¾ Friction • Wrapping Process: Hollow Spindle • …
Air-Jet Spinning Air-Jet Spinning Murata Vortex Spinner No.851 Air-Jet Spinning
¾ Sheeting, bedding accessories, ¾ Napery (cloth, napkins), ¾ Printcloth, ¾ Knit apparel ¾ Industrial fabrics, ¾ Sewing thread
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE SPINNING MILL
Structural Comparison of Yarns Spun on Roving Roving Ring Spinning Fiber Bale Opener Opening Rotor Spinning Different Systems Carding Drawing Sliver Feeder Cleaning Air-jet spinning Blending
Combing Yarn forming
Rotor Spinning Bale Laydown (mix) Drawing Sliver Air-jet spinning
Preparation for spinning Roving Roving Ring Spinning
Spinning Productivity: Spinning Cost:
Relative (expressed as %age) spinning costs per lb. of yarn Ring ------25 m/min produced:
Rotor ------250 m/min Rotor ------100%
MVS ------400 m/min Ring ------125%
MVS ------115% Yarn Count %ages Spun in U.S.
% Cotton Use by Weight Yarn Uses 30% vs. Both Systems 25% Spinning Rotor Spinning 20% Systems Ring Spinning 15%
10%
5%
0% <5 5-10 11-15 16-20 21-25 26-30 31-35 36-40 41-45 46-50 >50 Coarse Yarn Count (Ne) Fine
New Evolutions in Spinning Compact Spinning
•It is an innovation in ring spinning.
•It evolved from efforts to spin yarns directly Compact Spinning from sliver. A new Generation of Ring Spinning Machines •It “compacts” or “condenses” the yarns, virtually eliminating the “spinning triangle”. •It has potential to produce the best yarn structure possible.
Ring Spinning Process: Compact spinning New Evolutions in Spinning
Compact Spinning
¾ Enhanced yarn structure New Evolutions in Spinning Compact Spinning
Compact Spinning
Compact Spinning Advantages:
Yarn Structures •Elimination of the “spinning triangle” (ring vs. compact) •Improved spinning performance
•Improved characteristics of yarns such as strength, elongation, hairiness, etc.
•Facilitates further processes such as sizing, weave preparation, weaving and knitting
Translation of Properties:
PSS 5370: Yarn Properties- An Overview Fiber Properties
Yarn Properties
Fabric Properties Yarn Properties: CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN
•Size or “number” (count) •Twist (turns/m, TM) •Bundle strength •Single end strength
•Strength variations ÎVery Long Linear Strand •Evenness ÎLimited Number of Fibers per Cross Section •Hairiness ÎLimited Variability over an Extreme Length of Yarn •Friction ÎAchieve Structure Regularity/Evenness ÎProduct Consistency over long periods of time
CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN YARN NUMBER / COUNT
Two types of measurement systems are used:
(1) Direct yarn number (equal to linear density) is the mass per unit length of yarn. This system is used for silk and manufactured filament yarns.
(2) Indirect yarn number (equal to the reciprocal of Number of Fibers per Cross Section: linear density) is the length per unit mass of yarn. This system is used for cotton, linen, and wool type Yarn number (count) – a relative spun yarns. measure of the fineness of yarns. Î Direct System / Indirect System
YARN NUMBER / COUNT YARN NUMBER / COUNT
What is Tex? Direct System • A unit for expressing the linear density of fibers TEX (International Unit) and yarns. DENIER • Equal to the weight in grams of 1 kilometer of yarn, filament, fiber or other textile strand. Indirect System COTTON SYSTEM or • The lower the number, the finer the yarn. English Count (Ne)
METRIC COUNT (Nm) • Yarns, fibers, slivers, roving, braids… YARN NUMBER / COUNT YARN NUMBER / COUNT
What is Tex? What is Nm?
1 g • Old system (“of which no further use must be 1 tex = (yarns, roving) 1000 m made”), but still used in the old world
1mg 1 millitex (mtex) = • Equal to the number of 1 kilometer lengths per 1000m 1 kg of yarn. (fibers) 0.1 g 1 g 1 decitex (dtex) = = • The higher the number, the finer the yarn. 1000m 10000 m
1 kg 1 g 1 km 1 m 1 kilotex (ktex) = = Nm = = 1000 m 1 m (slivers) 1 kg 1 g
YARN NUMBER / COUNT YARN NUMBER / COUNT
Cotton Yarn Count (Ne) tex mtex dtex ktex Nm Ne mtex dtex 1000 590.5 tex = - ktex * 1000 • Based on a unit length of 840 yards. 1000 10 Nm Ne 1000 000 590500 mtex = tex * 1000 - dtex * 100 ktex * 1000 000 Nm Ne
mtex 10000 5905 dtex = tex * 10 - ktex * 10000 • The count of the yarn is equal to the number of 100 Nm Ne
840-yard increments required to weigh one lb. tex mtex dtex 1 0.5905 ktex = - 1000 1000000 10000 Nm Ne
1000 1000000 10000 1 • Under this system, the higher the number, the Nm = - Ne * 1.6934 tex mtex dtex ktex
finer the yarn. 590.5 590500 5905 0.5905 Ne = Nm * 0.5905 - tex mtex dtex ktex 840 yds Cotton Ne = 1 lb
CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN CONVERTING FIBERS INTO YARN
Number of Fibers per Cross Section
Yarn Linear Density N = FCS Fiber Linear Density
Number of Fibers per Cross Section NFCS = 7 fibers Yarn Linear Density Fiber Fineness = 170 mtex = 170 mg/km N = Î Yarn Fineness: 7*170 mg/km = 1.19 g/km=1.19 tex FCS Fiber Linear Density THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Twisting Yarn Twist Twist: binding mechanism of spun yarns – cohesion in the fibrous assembly ¾Strength, diameter, flexibility, hairiness, comfort, …
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Yarn Twist Optimum Twist ¾ Quality Considerations Twist Level: The amount of twist in the yarn expressed as the 9 Strength: twisting confers cohesion to the number of turns per unit length (t/m, TPI) fiber assembly 9 Hairiness Ring spinning: 9 Appearance Twist = Spindle speed (rpm) / Delivery speed (m/min) 9 Hand, comfort ¾ Productivity 9 Higher twist = lower production rates
THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM THE COTTON SPINNING SYSTEM
Ring Spinning: Twisting Ring Spinning: Twisting
Max imum Str ength Strength Confort Yarn Strength Yarn Quality index Quality Optimum Tw is t
Strength-comfort profile Yarn Tw ist
Yarn flexibility – Comfort index Yarn Twist Twist Level – Twist Factor Yarn Tensile Properties
TM = 4.2 (Weave) • Bundle Test: Skein test • Single strand Test
TM = 3.8 (Knit) ¾ Breaking Strength / Tenacity ¾ Elongation at break Twist level
0 10203040506070 Yarn count (Ne)
Yarn Bundle Strength Yarn Bundle Strength
Yarn Tensile Properties Yarn Tensile Properties
Single End (Yarn) Strength
•Tenacity (cN/tex) or (grams/tex) Bundle Test: Skein test ¾ Skein Breaking Strength: Lbf •Breaking strength (cN) or (grams) ¾ Count-Strength product: Lbf*Ne
•Elongation (%) USTER Tensorapid Single Stress-Strain Curve End Tester
Single-End Test Results Strength Variability
Break Time to Force Elong. Tenaci B-Work break s gF % cN/tex gF.cm 19 1 0.3 300.3 5.12 12.04 400.4 2 0.3 318.5 5.57 12.77 469.1 17 3 0.3 309.4 4.99 12.4 401.7 4 0.3 349.3 5.7 14 514.7 15 5 0.3 315.4 5.18 12.64 432 6 0.3 361.9 5.82 14.5 544.7 13 7 0.4 364.4 5.89 14.6 546.7 8 0.4 369.4 6.02 14.8 567.8 11 9 0.3 368.6 5.43 14.77 544.1 10 0.3 333 5.63 13.34 488.2
Break 9 11 0.3 110 5.11 4.4 140.5 12 0.3 309.2 5.31 12.39 420.2 7 13 0.3 348 5.24 13.94 498.2 14 0.3 330.7 5.7 13.25 506.2 5 15 0.3 314.5 5.7 12.6 461.4 16 0.4 392.9 5.95 15.74 601.3 3 17 0.3 356 5.5 14.27 521.6 18 0.3 384 5.76 15.39 551.3 1 19 0.3 349.7 5.5 14.02 500.8 20 0.4 384.5 6.07 15.41 610.2 0 100 200 300 400 500
Mean 0.3 342.2 5.56 13.71 498.3 Force (cN) CV 5.7 9.1 5.8 9.1 13.2 Q95 0 14.5 0.15 0.58 30.9
Strength Variability Strength Variability Strength Variability USTER Tensojet Single End Tester
High speed dynamometer (400 m/min) Tenacity / Elongation Weak places (low frequency)
USTER Tensojet Single End Tester USTER Tensojet Single End Tester
Yarn Mechanical Properties Abrasion Tester
Yarn Abrasion Resistance
•Yarns rub against each other and against surfaces of different kinds
•Yarn failure during processing may results from abrasion and fatigue
•Yarn abrasion testers measure yarn resistance to abrasion and fatigue stresses Abrasion Tester Abrasion Tester
Yarn Mechanical Properties Yarn Evenness Tests
Yarn Abrasion Resistance Yarn Mass / Diameter Variation •Number of abrasion cycles withstood prior to failure •Non-uniformity (CV%), Unevenness •Thin places (-50%) •Yarn aspect after a pre-determined number of abrasion cycles •Thick places (+50%) •Neps (+200/280%)
Yarn Evenness Tester Capacitive Sensor
Zellweger Uster Tester 3 Capacitive Sensor Yarn Defects
Unevenness: Coefficient of mass variation Fiber defects – immature fibers
1 cm ……………………………... 1 cm ……………………………. .. 1 cm
m1 ……………………………... mi ……………………………. .. mn
Defects: Long / Short
~ Fiber length < 4 mm ~ Fiber length
m -50% m +200% m +50%
Source: Cirad
Yarn Defects Yarn Defects
Trash particles Insect honeydew
Source: Cirad Source: Cirad
Uster Tester 4 Cyros for Yarn Diameter Analysis
Capacitive Sensor Optical Sensors Diameter Analysis Trash Count Hairiness Simulation – Visualization of fabric appearance Yarn Diameter Analysis Cyros Yarn Board Simulation
Cyros Fabric Simulation Cyros Fabric Simulation
Cyros Fabric Simulation Yarn Hairiness
Hairs protruding from the yarn core Hairiness (UT3®) Zweigle Hairiness Tester G 566
yarn Diffused light
Light Light source sensor
Direct light
H = Total Hair length / cm
Zweigle Hairiness Tester G 566 Zweigle Hairiness Tester G 566
18000 16000 14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 Hair number / 100 m 2000 0
m m m m m mm m mm m m 1 mm 2 3 4 mm 6 8 2 8 mm 1 10 mm 1 15 mm 1 2 25 mm Hair length category (mm)
Counts hairs extending beyond the measuring distance
Translation of Properties:
Fiber Properties Spinning Process Yarn Properties
Fabric Properties