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Vol.41 No.20 Nov 5-18, 2010 Japan’s Premier Free Magazine www.weekenderjapan.com

WeWe needneed toto havehave aa chatchat There’sThere’s lotslots toto talktalk aboutabout whenwhen ChinaChina andand thethe USUS showshow upup inin YokohamaYokohama forfor APECAPEC

Executive Profile: Reidel’s Wolfgang Angyl

Get ready, ski season is on the horizon

Bill Hersey’s Parties People Places

Our Yearly Reader’s Survey Win two tickets to Vietnam and more!

Contents November 5

6 Executive Profiles: Wolfgang Angyal 22-23 Blazing leaves and bright kimono

7 The View From Here 24-27 Parties, People & Places

8-11 Arts and Entertainment 28-29 Ski season on the horizon

12-13 Thanksgiving special 30-31 Real estate

14-15 Tokyo Tables 32-33 Classifieds

16-20 APEC: A much needed summit 34 Back in the Day

Volume 41 Number 20

PUBLISHER Ray Pedersen CONTRIBUTORS Yonca Guler, Mami Schula, Richard EDITOR Donald Eubank Smart, John Burton, Ian de Stains OBE ASSISTANT EDITOR Stephen Parker MEDIA MANAGER Tomas Castro EST. Corky Alexander and Susan Scully, 1970 MEDIA CONSULTANTS Mary Rudow, Pia von Waldau OFFICE Weekender Magazine, 5th floor, Regency Shinsaka Building, RESEARCHER Rene Angelo Pascua 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. 03-6846-5615 Fax: 03-6846-5616 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Owen Schaefer (Arts), Bill Hersey Email: [email protected] (Society), Elisabeth Lambert (Health & Eco), Darrell Nelson (Sustainable Business) Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Cover: “Tōjin no yoshiwara asobi” (Women playing musical instruments, eating & drinking, walking with their www.weekenderjapan.com Chinese guests in Yoshiwara) by Kikukawa Eizan (1787-1867) B u s i n e s s

Executives in Japan

EdwardWolfgang Suzuki Angyal President of Riedel Japan

olfgang Angyal was born in Kufstein, Austria, the very village that is home to the headquarters of the wine glass company WRiedel. Angyal first came to Japan in 1985 when he was working in a hotel in Austria and visited Osaka as a representative of his country in the 28th WorldSkills Competition, where he won the gold medal in the Restaurant Service category. His first experience of Japan encouraged him to return, and in 2000 Angyal became president of Riedel Japan. The Austrian is well known as the first person in Japan to teach in fluent Japanese the importance of using the right glasses when enjoying wine.

How has your perception of Japan changed over your time here? but most seemed to have had a lot more difficulty communicating. I arrived in Japan in the late 1980s when the bubble was in full swing. I Looking back, I guess that’s how I ended up with the gold medal. was too young to participate, but could still get a glimpse of things that one can probably experience in China or the UEA now. Today Japan What have been your greatest successes living and working in Japan? has become a bit more like Europe in many ways, including the good After a year working as a guest lecturer at Tsuji Academy in Osaka and and some of the not so good, but it is certainly a more comfortable and making every possible mistake in ‘88, I finally discovered that there is enjoyable place to work and live than 20 years ago. no benefit in being an elephant walking through the porcelain shop. I remember working right in the heart of Marunouchi in the early A more subtle approach proved far more effective. After realizing ‘90s. You would not have wanted to walk the streets if you did not have that, things went pretty much on course on the business front. Riedel, to. It was all a maze of different shades of grey, from buildings, offices which was virtually unknown when I started in ‘89, went from a one- to people, and I was told Japanese don’t like to spend time in outdoor man band to a highly recognized brand in Japan, and a company with cafes — but look at it today. several business divisions and seven directly operated stores. But meeting my Australian wife in Tokyo in ‘92 was certainly the highlight. What about your first trip to Japan encouraged you to return? The World Skills competition only lasted for a week, but I sensed What is the greatest obstacle you’ve encountered doing business here? a strong affinity with the people and culture. One of the main Apart from the fact that things may take three times as long and are usually still twice as expensive, I find that to effectively communicate Japan-specific complexities to those without cultural reference points ‘Once you get to know the still to be the biggest challenge.

unwritten rules in Japan What’s been the most surprising thing that you’ve learned in Japan? That almost nothing is impossible under the right circumstances. Once and start working with you get to know the unwritten rules in Japan and start working with them instead of against them, things that you never thought possible them instead of against can just fall into place. You are credited with introducing the importance of the glasses used them, things that you when drinking wine — what other aspects of wine culture still need to be improved here? never thought possible Wine appreciation in Japan certainly has come a very long way. Today, the general public’s understanding and desire to learn about wine in Japan is quite high compared to other countries. But at the same time, can just fall into place’ people still often just drink the “labels” or follow other people’s tastes rather than to trust their own palate. I frequently meet people telling challenges for competitors from all over the world was to effectively me how many Riedel glasses they have, but they often seem to miss “communicate” with the Japanese assistants that one had access to in the whole point, thinking that its OK just to use the best brand, instead order to complete the various tasks. And since none of them spoke any of actually discovering the difference that the various varietal shapes language I could understand, one had to use non-verbal means to get can make to really get the most out of their favorite wines. So there is messages through. Other competitors may have had a technical edge, certainly still enough for us “wine educators” left to do in the future.

6 WEEKENDER O p i n i o n

THE VIEW FROM HERE by Ian de Stains OBE

Grow up

t is sad but not surprising that China reacted so negatively to to receive a long harangue about China’s sovereignty — was a futile the award of the Nobel Peace Prize to one of its most prominent gesture that underscores yet again that the Nobel Committee’s point Ihuman rights activists. A distinguished literary critic and respected was entirely missed. academic, Liu Xiaobo is one of China’s most important hopes for its Not, however, by the great majority of people — enlightened post-economic status. He has, however, been silenced by the 11 year Chinese among them — who would like to see China earn its place jail sentence he is currently serving — not his first — because he has at the top table of democracy. China’s economic achievements over upset the Beijing bullies who would rather keep the Chinese people the past decade and more have been impressive to say the least, and in the dark about their human rights than behave like a responsible there is no reason to believe that what lies ahead will disappoint. member of the international community. Unless, of course, it is a digging-in of Chinese heels and a refusal to China’s leaders now strut proudly about the world stage. Their learn the rules of international statesmanship. No one likes a bully, economy is strong yet they are defiant when requested to cooperate and ultimately bullies never prevail. They are always in the last resort in currency management in the broader global interest (including, shown up for what they really are: hollow men. ultimately, their own). They show all the signs of wanting to behave like Beijing’s petulant response to the award of the Nobel Peace Prize every other grown up economy until they are pressed for action. Now, to one of its citizens may not entirely erase the goodwill many feel for they throw all their toys out of the pram because an outside agency has China’s emergence, but it will erode it. It will also, ironically, endow the managed to highlight just how lacking they are in moral wealth. award — and its recipient — with an even stronger sense of meaning The fact that the Chinese authorities had lobbied to try and stop and purpose. the award being given to Liu only emphasizes the fact that they find it inconceivable that a body such as the Nobel Committee can wield Ian de Stains is the Executive Director of the British Chamber of Commerce in Japan. The views expressed in this column are strictly his such power and act independently of government control. Beijing’s own and are not necessarily endorsed by or shared by the Chamber. summoning of the Norwegian Ambassador Svein Saether — no doubt

WEEKENDER 7 Arts & Entertainment » Tokyo Happenings

LESLIE GOUGER PHOTO

‘Transformation’ at the MOT ‘Cinderella’ & ‘Andrea Chénier’ The Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo’s latest exhibition, The New National Theater has two crowd-pleasers for the late fall. “Transformation,” is about the unclear boundary between the There’s the kid-friendly “Cinderella” starring Saito Miho and Maylen, human and the nonhuman in the Internet age. While the intellectual the first production under the NNT’s new artistic director David games of curators always come second to the actual practice of Bintley. (Judging by Bintley’s note on the performance’s web page, artists, the selection of creators is pretty major: Marcus Coates the UK director might not feel so friendly about the selection of the creates playful films and performances that take their cues from ballet being attributed to his stewardship!) And then for the adults, wild animals to dig deep into human nature and find out its most it’s 19th-century Italian composer Umberto Giordano’s opera “Andrea primal elements. Matthew Barney’s colorful and enigmatic films Chénier,” his best-received production. Set in Paris during the French made him the past decade’s bad boy of art while winning him equally Revolution, the story is about the French poet Andrea Chénier and eccentric fans such as Bjork (his now wife). The MOT has included his love for Maddalena di Coigny, the daughter of a contessa. While Japanese artists such as Naoki Ishikawa and Masakatsu Takagi and the music is sure to be ... operatic ... the real reason to go may be to other Asians such as South Korean Lee Bul and Thai Apichatpong check out the sets by Philippe Arlaud, which are inspired by the artists Weerasethakul in what could be a spectacular survey of some of the Fragonard, Delacroix and Goya. latest from the contemporary art scene. “Cinderella”: Nov. 27-Dec. 5 “Andrea Chenier”: Nov. 12-24 Oct. 29-Jan. 30, 2010 Nearest station: Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Tickets: ¥1,500-¥ 10,500 Tickets: ¥ 1,500-¥ 21,000 10 am-6 pm (Hanzomon & Oedo lines) Nearest station: Hatsudai Admission: ¥1,300 (Keio New Line) www.nntt.jac.go.jp / (03) 5352-9999 (03) 5405 8686 / www.mot-art-museum.jp

Australia Society Tokyo Wine Night The Flaming Lips at Zepp Tokyo The Australia Society is holding another fabulous evening of blind Their biggest hit, “She Don’t Use Jelly” — she spreads Vaseline on tastings from Australia, New Zealand and others. Get your friends her toast instead — was all the way back in 1983, but The Flaming together and come along for a great evening of fun and education. Join Lips have become one of the most famous and long-running bands in the wine challenge for a chance to win a prize and enter the raffle in the indie rock scene. The second big mainstream breakthrough for a chance to win two tickets to the Australia Day Gala Ball on Jan. for Wayne Coyne and the other boys from Oklahoma City came with 29, 2011. The last Wine Challenge in June was a smashing success at the album “The Soft Bulletin” in 1999, and ever since they have been which everyone had a great night, and the society expects the same for headlining festivals and stadiums. Sticking to their deep but oddball this one. So come and join for another night of wine and fun — recent compositions, the band has been nominated for six Grammys and Australia Society events have been really well attended and sold out, won three times. Their latest album is a remake of Pink Floyd’s so sign up early. “Dark Side of the Moon,” so you can expect to hear some of The Lips’ unique take on some real trippy classics in the intimate space of Dec. 2, 7-10 pm Admission: ¥6,000 Members, ¥7,000 Zepp Tokyo. Venue to be announced Nonmembers (buffet included) Nov. 18, 6 pm Tickets: ¥8,500 www.australiasocietytokyo.com Nearest station: Aomi (Yurikamome Line) (0570) 02-9999 / www.creativeman.co.jp 8 WEEKENDER // // Arts & Entertainment

DAIDO MORIYAMA PHOTO Yoko Nagisa at SuperDeluxe St. Andrew Ball at the Conrad Tokyo You don’t listen to enka. Even your Japanese friends don’t listen to The St. Andrew Society of Yokohama and Tokyo — a group of Scots, enka. Maybe their fathers or grandfathers sing it at snack shops, Japanese and other nationalities who aim to promote friendship and if — miraculously — you were to go to a concert of famous between Scottish and Japanese people — is holding the 2010 St. enka singers, you would probably be surrounded by aunties and Andrew Ball on Friday Nov. 26 at the Conrad Tokyo with the support uncles from the sticks. But not if you’re checking out Yoko Nagisa at of the HSBC Group. The society is pulling out all the stops for a SuperDeluxe. Nagisa has updated the traditional Japanese music wonderful evening that begins with a cocktail reception at Conrad’s form with a psychedelic twist and a shot of chanson-cum-Showa 28th floor bar Twenty Eight — which has breathtaking views of Pop. Cranking up the reverb and deconstructing the form, the singer Tokyo Bay — and then continues with a Scottish themed dinner has played to both scenesters at the Readymade parties organized accompanied by fine wines, speciality whiskies and a presentation by Pizzacato Five’s Yasuhara Konishi and the homeless of Shinjuku. of quirky ales from a Scottish microbrewery. The evening will finish At SuperDeluxe you’ll have chance to see enka stay relevant and with traditional reeling to live music. The evening begins from 7 pm, get weird — and maybe even catch a glimpse of Nagisa’s back-up carriages are 1 am. dancers, the memorably described “terrible but appropriate” Neon Cups. Nov. 26, 7 pm Tickets: ¥20,000 Nearest stations: Shiodome Nov. 21, 7 pm Tickets: ¥2,800 advance /¥3,300 door & Shinbashi (Yamanote, Nearest station: Roppongi Yurikamome & Oedo lines) www.st-andrews-society.com (Hibiya and Oedo lines) www.super-deluxe.com / (03) 5412-0515

More Happenings...

Music — Pop-Punk solo artist Laurier Tiernan and Friends Live, Nov. 20, 7 pm, T-Toc Records Cafe and Live Space At Home, Shimokitazawa, (03) 5608-2678, ¥2,000 Australian Nite at la.mama Nov. 11, 6-11 pm, Primera Dogenzaka B1, 1-15-3, Dogenzaka, Shibuya (near Mark city), ¥ 2,500 advance / ¥ 3,000 at the door, (03) 3464-0801 The Blues Brothers Band, Nov. 4-5, 7 & 9:30 pm, Nov. 6, 6-9 pm, ¥ 7,500-9,500, Billboard Live, Roppongi, (03) 3405-1133 Chilly Gonzales, Nov. 6, 7 pm, ¥ 5,800 advance/ ¥ 6,300 at the door Swing Out Sister, Nov. 15-16 & 18-19, 7 & 9:30 pm, Nov. 20, 6 & 9 pm, ¥7,500-9,500, Billboard Live, Roppongi, (03) 3405-1133 “Venezuelan Cultural Week 2010”, Nov. 11, 7 pm, ¥ 2,500 advance / ¥3,000 at the door, Tokyo Hakuju Hall, Tomigaya, (0570) 02 9999 Pe’z, Nov. 11, 6-9 pm, ¥ 4,800-6,800, Billboard Live, Roppongi, (03) 3405- 1133 Duke Ellington Orchestra, Nov. 19-20 & 22, 7& 9:30 pm, Nov. 21& 23, 5 & 8 pm, ¥ 9,500-10,500, Cotton Club, Black Disco with Miss Kittin at Womb Marunouchi, (03) 3215- 15555 Lisa Ono, Nov. 21, 5:30 pm, ¥ 6,300, French DJ and electro/techno singer-producer Miss Kittin released Yokosuka Theater, Dec.22, 7 pm, ¥ 7,350, Bunkamura Orchard Hall, her first tracks in 1998 on DJ Hell’s International Deejay Gigolos Shibuya, (03) 3498-9999 Hapa Japan Tour 2010 “Malihini”, label, and came to wide spread attention with “Frank Sinatra,” a Nov. 11-12,7 pm, Admission: ¥ 6,300 advance / ¥ 7,500 at the door, raunchy, minimalist dance floor number sung in heavily accented English. She’s most recently released her ninth album, “Two,” a coproduction with her old friend, the producer The Hacker. Back on Dance — Urashima Taro Ballet Nov. 21, 6 pm, Persimmon Hall, the road for a Tokyo session, Kittin’s appearance at Womb is sure to Meguro, (03) 3457-6111 bring out a serious, and seriously decked-out, electro crowd.

Nov. 13, 11 pm-late Tickets: ¥ 4,000 at the door Nearest station: Shibuya www.womb.co.jp // WEEKENDER 9 S u r v e y

8. Where are you from? 20. How much “disposable income” do you Weekender 2010 spend every month? ______Reader Survey [ ] ¥10,000-¥40,000 9. How old are you? [ ] ¥50,000-¥100,000 Every year The Weekender does a [ ] 12-18 [ ] 18-25 [ ] 26-35 [ ] 36-45 [ ] ¥100,000-¥200,000 reader survey to find out who you [ ] 46-55 [ ] 56-65 [ ] Over 65 [ ] ¥200,000-¥300,000 are and what you want out of a Tokyo publication. We appreciate your [ ] More than ¥300,000 loyalty and your taking the time to 10. Are you... 21. What kinds of luxury items will you answer our questions, so we are [ ] Single spend big money on? (Select appropriate offering some great prizes to a few [ ] Married without children answers.) lucky respondents (see below). [ ] Married with children We aim to make The Weekender the [ ] Cars kind of publication that you want to 11. Do you live in a [ ] Holidays [ ] Furnished Apartment read regularly by offering the kinds of [ ] Watches [ ] Unfurnished Apartment content and commercial offers that [ ] Furniture you need to know about in a lively city [ ] House [ ] Fashion items, jewelry and clothes like ours. Any and all insights you [ ] Guesthouse [ ] Artworks have will help us do our jobs better! 12. What is your housing situation? [ ] Education/personal improvement [ ] I pay the rent for my apartment/house 1. How often do you read The Weekender? [ ] My company pays the rent for my [ ] Others (Please specify______) [ ] Every issue apartment/house [ ] Once a month [ ] My company gives me a housing 27. How many times a month do you do the 2010 Reader [ ] Irregularly allowance for my apartment/house following? 0 1 2 4 8+

[ ] Never [ ] I own my apartment/house Eat out [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 2. On average, how many people read your 14. How long do you plan to stay in Japan? Go to the movies [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] copy of Weekender? [ ] Less than 1 year Travel within Japan [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Just me [ ] 1-2 years Exercise/go to the gym [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] One or two others [ ] 2-5 years Go to Opera/classical concerts [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] More than two others [ ] 5-10 years Go to rock/Pop/jazz concerts [ ] Over 10 years [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 3. How often do you visit the Weekender [ ] Not Sure Go to a museum [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] website each month? Go shopping [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Never 16. What is your position? Attend a sporting event [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 1-5 times [ ] CEO/CFO/other C-level Executive [ ] 5-10 times [ ] Corporate Employee Go to a bar/club [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] more than 10 times [ ] Professional (accountant/lawyer, etc.) Go hiking / outdoor activity [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Teacher/Trainer Rent DVDs [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 4. Why do you pick up The Weekender? [ ] Service Sector Employee Survey (select all appropriate answers) Take photos [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Business Owner [ ] Habit -- I have been reading it forever Garden [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Self-employed/Freelancer [ ] To pass the time in cafes/bars [ ] Student (Major______) Interior design/decorating my home [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] The events listings to see what is on [ ] Unemployed Enjoy spa treatments/visit onsen [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] For the features articles and writing [ ] Homemaker Take classes about Japanese culture [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Bill Hersey’s Parties, Peoples & Places [ ] For the family section [ ] Other (Please specify______) Sports (Please Specify______) [ ] Boredom -- just because it’s there Others (Please Specify______) 17. What is the monthly income in your [ ] Other Please specify______household? Win: 5. What kind of stories are you more or less [ ] Less than ¥250,000

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[ ] A charity (______) 6. Please tell us where you would like to see Address______19. Do you have pets? Weekender distributed in the future (name of ______establishment) ______[ ] Dog(s) - How many? (______) [ ] Cat(s) - How many? (______) Phone number______7. Are you... [ ] Other pet(s) (______) [ ] Male [ ] Female Email address______10 WEEKENDER [ ] No pets Arts & Entertainment

Reading Roni Horn

by Owen Schaefer while the molds look like a series of barcode-like lines from the top and bottom sides of the rod. As poetry, they lean against the walls looking oni Horn’s small show at Rat Hole Gallery comprises just three misplaced outside of their larger context. Then, on closer inspection, as collage-like works and four narrow sculptures leaning casually you recognize the individual letters as three-dimensional shapes, they Ragainst the walls. You could almost mistakenly believe you had can slowly lose even the context of language as everything becomes pure stumbled upon a show only part-way assembled — the incomplete works form. Without whatever bond that holds them together, the letters and left sitting while the staff went for lunch. But this exhibition is just the tip background break down into a collection of shapes, barely recognizable. of the iceberg that is Horn’s body of work. Horn is very conscious of the use of space in her installations. The Horn is probably best known for her photography. In the series viewer is tempted to make something of these unconnected sentences “You are the Weather,” the artists took hundreds of close-up photos of standing so far apart: Mentions of “stars” and “sparks” find echoes in an Icelandic woman coming out of the water. The only instructions the references to night; “immortality” seems as though it should connect to subject was given by Horn were to look into the camera, so when the the mention of “faith.” The space that separates these phrases is equal photos are shown together, the changes in the woman’s face become to the viewer’s own leap of cognition. We are always switching between weather-like: the unchanging landscape of her bone structure is overlaid looking at an object and reading text — defining separate physical by shifting patterns of water, her skin is colored by heat or cold and her sculptures, yet tempted to somehow connect them textually. expression is blown through by subtle changes in her mood. The small size of the show encourages viewers to spend time with In “This is Me, This is You,” a 2008 show which was Horn’s first solo each work, studying the surfaces, admiring the lines and shapes and exhibition in Japan, the artist placed photos of her niece onto opposite visualizing how they fit together. Viewing “White Dickinson” therefore walls. The images in each pair were taken only seconds apart, making becomes a process of swinging back and forth between different ways the two walls seem identical. But their separation in the gallery space of seeing, until the mechanics of language and text begin to seem as made the temporal distance between them into a physical one, forcing strange and complex as they really are. the viewer to literally move from one moment to the next in order to see the differences. It is this kind of conceptual juggling that Horn brings to her latest series, “White Dickinson,” a set of sculptures embedded with lines of poetry from the American writer Emily Dickinson. Unlike the Event: Roni Horn: White Dickinson (till Dec. 5) photographic works focused on time and space, “White Dickinson” Venue: Rat Hole Gallery (Omotesando Station) contrasts the act of reading with the act of looking — two very different Hours: 12 noon–8 pm (Closed Mon.) cognitive processes. Dickinson’s words, molded in acrylic, have been tv fitted into Admission: free aluminum rods. The acrylic molds appear as the words of Dickinson’s More info: Visit www.ratholegallery.com poems from the front and the back (though backwards from the back), or call (03) 6419-3581

WEEKENDER 11 ADVERTORIAL

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raiteur Trois Cochon was founded this summer with the intention There is also a wide range of the finest quality charcuteries and groceries Tof being the best and only place in Tokyo where you can take-out from around the world, with a particular emphasis on all things French. authentic French cuisine and delicacies directly to your home. The shop serves a variety of pates and terrines, appetizers, salads and entrees that Trois Cochons is filled with the esprit and smell of Paris — as soon as have been freshly made in their on-site kitchen. The pates and terrines you step into the shop, you’ll think you are really there. are especially outstanding and are always available in more than five different varieties. The real French style salads are also remarkable – beets, For Thanksgiving, they have special offers on turkeys and party menus renz beans. for catering / take-out. The roast Thanksgiving turkey, stuffed with veg- gies and meat and accompanied with a selection of a special cranberry or The rotisserie oven, imported directly from France, cooks crispy and gravy sauce, can be booked so that you don’t have to spend the whole day juicy roast chicken every day — you can even reserve it to be ready cooking the holiday bird. Besides the usual menu, Trois Cochons have a exactly as you walk into the shop in case you can’t wait till you get back special party menu that’s more than appropriate for celebrating Thanks- to your home to eat it. giving with your family or friends.

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Address: 2-14-14, Akasaka 2-chome, Minato-ku,Tokyo Tel: 03-3588-4568

12 WEEKENDER // THANKSGIVING SPECIAL

The Japanese Way To Give Thanks

By Stephen Parker

ou could be forgiven for thinking of Thanksgiving as is one of the most important festivals of the year. In the Meiji an all-American affair, though in Japan and across the Era the date was fixed on Nov. 23, although the origins are Yworld there are autumn festivals celebrating success- thought to stretch back more than two millennia, to when rice ful harvests and praying for future abundance. first arrived in Japan from China. Canadian Thanksgiving falls on the second Monday in During the festival the emperor offers the first harvest of October, while in the United States, the holiday is celebrated rice to the Gods. Emperor Showa traditionally cultivated his on the fourth Thursday of November. Here in Japan, “Labor own private rice in the Imperial Palace’s water fields, person- Thanksgiving Day” (Kinro Kansha no Hi ) falls on Nov. 23. ally seeding and harvesting the crop before the ceremony. If you are lucky enough to work in a government office or According to myth, the goddess Amaterasu Omikami school, you can be truely thankful, as the day is a national passed rice onto her Earthly descendants and encouraged holiday. them to make the grain abundant across the country. The The current Japanese Thanksgiving celebration dates current emperor inherited the rite and today the cultivation back to 1948, when it was made as an important gesture ceremony is still an essential part of Imperial life. in Japan’s move towards becoming a modern democratic The emperor not only blesses his personal rice, but rice society. In schools, the holiday encourages people to think supplied by businesses seeking good fortune. This symbolic positively about workers, the environment and human rights. ceremony is thought to bring good luck and prosperity for all, November has been important in Shinto belief for centu- and, with the Japanese economy struggling, the blessing this ries. The religious festival Ninamesai was first recorded in the November may be more needed than ever. Nihon Shoki (Chronicle of Japan) as early as the year 678 and

ISSH Family Festival will be held on Saturday, November 13, 2010

Be Aware, Show You Care School Theme for 2010-2011

ISSH is located in a green oasis a three minute walk from the Hiroo subway station in central Tokyo. It was founded in1908 and belongs to a worldwide network of the Schools of the Sacred Heart. Our school is a multiucultural private Catholic school that provides a worldclass education to students of all faiths. Pre-Kindergarten and Kindergarten classes for 3, 4 and 5 year olds are for boys and girls, while grade 1-12 are for girls only. The new gym, Kindergarten and Junior School building will be complete in Fall 2011.

[email protected] www.issh.ac.jp International School of the Sacred Heart

WEEKENDER 13

4-3-1 Hiroo Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012 Tel (03) 3400-3951 Tel (03) 3400-3951 Tokyo Tables TokYo Tables

Mikasa Kaikan Yamoto, Ginza by Mami Shula A few words about teppanyaki ikasa Kaikan is a Ginza Landmark, and the teppanyaki Teppanyaki is one of those meetings of two cultures that stays more restaurant Yamato is one of its many jewels. Yamato has a associated with one than the other— here Western-style food meeting Mwide range of courses (and a la carte dishes), from which we the Japanese teppan, a flat grill for cooking meats, seafood and chose the Keyaki course. This was more than necessary for us to get a vegetables. The method for cooking took off among Western diners firm grasp of the delicacies and services which were in store for us. in the mid 19th-century, who thought they were getting a Japanese We started with the Yamato salad, a fresh and crispy yet dainty dish specialty, and Japanese chefs serving them started to ham up the that pleased the dieting ladies who were on board for the evening’s performance aspect of cooking food directly in front of patrons. tasting. This was followed by an unusual shrimp “steak.” Before Teppanyaki has stuck around on both sides of the world, though, living our very eyes, the attending chef guillotined the prawn, putting the beyond its time as a fad to become a real culinary tradition in Japan head aside (it would appear later) and proceeded to cook the meat to as well as abroad. perfection. Scallops and a salmon fillet were the next order of business, succulent and moist, contrasting with the accompanying grilled how it can be both tender and juicy yet firm and flavorful at the vegetables beautifully. same time. The experience at Mikasa Kaikan definitely did not let Closing the savory curtain was the Japanese “Black Cow” sirloin the standard down. steak. The marbled texture of Japanese beef is always impressive, Filling out the course, we enjoyed a delicious miso soup and garlic rice that our chef made with a flourish, liquifying the trimmed fat Mikasa Kaikan Yamoto from the beef to stir-fry the ingredients. This was served along with Mikasa-kaikan 7F, 5-5-17 Ginza Japanese pickles and fresh bread. Chuo-ku, Tokyo The meal was rounded off with a light and fruity sherbet which certainly cleansed the palette for a surprisingly good cup of coffee. Open all week, 11:30 am-10 pm We would recommend this restaurant to all Teppanyaki fans out (03) 3289-5663 there as a great value for money at just over ¥7,000 per person. www.mikasakaikan.co.jp And about the prawn’s head, I’m keeping the chef’s secret — you’ll have to go and find out for yourself.

14 WEEKENDER // Tokyo Tables

Decanting memories by J.K. Whelehan

hat makes an event special? Past celebrations for me are book marked in my mind by memorable wines. Indeed I Wstill remember well the 1870 Lafite I drank, a legendary wine. In reality, while the legend lives, the wine was dead, so it was more in part the generosity and thoughtfulness of the provider which ingrained the occasion for posterity. With Thanksgiving just around the corner, you have the chance to mark the event with a great wine using turkey as the foil. Based on the basic rule of thumb — white wine with white meat — most people will steer correctly toward a white or rose. In fact a full bodied, oak-aged chardonnay from a warm climate will work well if you serve your turkey with gravy, as is common in Europe during Christmas. In general, the more delicately flavored the food, the subtler the wine should be. On this auspicious occasion, turkey is normally roasted and, depending on the accoutrements (i.e., stuffing incorporating truffles, nuts, black pepper or even a cranberry sauce your choice), can handle anything from a medium-bodied oak-aged white to medium reds with a core of ripe fruit, such as Pinots from hotter areas. If you are looking to create a memorable occasion, you may want to consider an old vintage, say a 10- to 15-year-old Bordeaux — but please hold the cranberry sauce. As wine ages, it become less tannic and the flavors become more subtle and integrated, thus making it easier to match with turkey. Though note, as part of this aging process, the color moves from purple-red to red, eventually to brown and amber as the tannins precipitate, leaving sediment. So if you are opting for an older wine, be sure to stand the bottle upright at least 24 hours before decanting. When the time comes, carefully remove the entire capsule, wipe the lip with a cloth, place a light (either the traditional candle flame, or a torch works as well) behind the shoulder of the bottle and pour steadily into the decanter. The light illuminates the contents and shows exactly when the deposit comes up the neck so that you can stop pouring. If you do this in front of your friends and family be sure to practice, so it’s memorable for the right reasons.

WEEKENDER 15 Feature: APEC in Yokohama

Money, Minerals, and ‘Mass’ Protests

China, Japan and the US have a full list of issues to sort out at the APEC get- together that’s taking place this week in Yokohama

KAZUHIKO TERAMOTO PHOTO

16 WEEKENDER Feature: APEC in Yokohama

AA muchmuch neededneeded summitsummit BYBY RICHARDRICHARD SMARTSMART

WEEKENDER 17 Feature: APEC in Yokohama

JACOB EHNMARK PHOTO

When the leaders of Japan, China and parliament after winning a July vote — general elections do not have to take place until 2013; so, for now, the DPJ should the United States meet at the Asia Pacific be able to push forward with its current plan. Economic Cooperation Summit to be held The United States will obviously seek reassurances in Yokohama in early November, all three that the current agreement between the two countries is to go ahead. But as with all agreements, conversations will appreciate the face time that will and reassurances given in Yokohama, they will be up for allow these major powers of the Pacific renegotiation. to grapple with their economic, territorial n the meantime, conditions on the west side of the Pacific and resource issues. Yet, few conclusions have taken a swift change in course, with China and Japan are likely to be reached Iat the center of a new dispute. Japan has seen diplomatic ties sour with China in recent ast year, when the Democratic Party of Japan came to months as old disagreements over the small Senkaku island power in September, it did so promising to look into the chain, which both nations claim as their own (China under the Lissue of US troops in Japan. The DPJ argued that the name of the Diaoyutai), have reemerged. While there is little need for a US military presence in Japan, and the location of doubt that at an economic level Japan and China have a need any bases, should be reconsidered. Fast forward a year and for each other, both nations are now seeing people take to the prime minister Yukio Hatoyama has resigned, citing the issue streets. as a major reason for doing so. Now his party is pledging to go Protests have spread across China, demanding that the forward with a 2006 plan agreed on by the United States and a government in Tokyo give up its claim to the islands, while government that was then headed by the Liberal Democratic in Japan, nationalists have demanded it stand firm against Party — a plan which does not enjoy wide support among the Beijing. population. The dispute has its origins in more than 100 years of Currently, the DPJ is maintaining a balancing act. While history. Japan claimed the small chain of islands in 1895 as voters have expressed their frustration with the party — the it aggressively expanded overseas in the Meiji Era. China did opposition LDP and its allies control the upper house of not dispute the nation’s claim until 1971, when a group of

18 WEEKENDER F e a t u r e : APEC in Yokohama scientists said that it was possible that there were oil reserves What’s the big picture? under the islands. Since then, high rhetoric and occasional protests have been the norm, with China arguing that the islands are rightfully theirs and were taken by an aggressive, expansionist Japan. Tokyo has retorted that China does not have a historical claim to the islands. The debate was inflamed in September when a Chinese fishing vessel allegedly rammed a Japanese boat near the Jeff Kingston, professor of Asian studies at Temple islands. Tokyo claims to have video evidence that the Chinese University in Tokyo and the author of “Contemporary Japan: boat was at fault and held the captain of the vessel for around History, Politics, and Social Change since the 1980s,” shares two weeks. That evidence, however, has not been released, his thoughts on key issues at the upcoming conference. and local media reports suggest that the DPJ fears retaliation if it goes public with the video. China, Japan, the Senkaku Islands & rare earth elements Both at the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) “China badly overplayed it’s hand in this situation. It has Summit and in the weeks before, Japanese leaders are seriously undermined a decade of diplomacy aimed at expected to discuss the issue with their counterparts in China. reassuring the rest of the region that a rising China is not a As is often the case in disputes such as these between the threatening China. It’s interesting that the Pentagon has for two nations, little lasting damage is likely to be done, as over several years been trying to portray China as a dangerous time the rhetoric will cool and trade figures are likely to see growing regional power with little success. Now, Beijing has little movement. The face time at events such as the one in managed to convince everyone that the Pentagon may have been right after all. “China is interested in downstream processing, so it Then there is the makes sense for the nation’s long-term goals. They want to create jobs in these next generation industries, but clearly surprising new issue the timing was linked to the dispute over the Senkaku Islands. It shows that China is willing to take advantage of of rare earth elements, its economic power to get its way with Japan. Because of this, the bilateral relationship is likely to be scarred. which is sure to rear “Rare earth minerals are not, however, as rare as one would think. Japan is likely to tap into not only resources in the US, but also in Vietnam, Mongolia and Australia. its head at APEC. As Clearly, what China has done here sent a wake-up call to the Japanese that they are not a reliable supplier and the Senkaku dispute alternatives need to be found. There is also a black market in rare earths that could be used to make up any shortfalls. heated up, China “On the entire situation, China has been very clumsy. Normally speaking, China is very deft, but this isn’t like allegedly cut off its them. I’m surprised they overreacted so badly to the Senkaku dispute and they really need to repair the damage done. Japan realizes how dependent it is on China, and it supply to Japan is now looking to build strategic relationships with other countries, such as India.” Yokohama, however, will be seen as an opportunity by the nations to ease tensions, particularly given China’s refusal to Currency problems meet prime minister Naoto Kan at an ASEAN meeting in late “I don’t think we have seen an end to competitive devaluations. October. There is no chance of an accord coming any time soon. They are trying to work out a way to manage currencies, and China ut this is all background in a sense, with large questions are not the worst player here. The Koreans and the Taiwanese, on the future of the global economy looming — not that for example, have also manipulated their currencies. There Bthere isn’t escalating tension in that realm as well. has been a lot of manipulation of currencies — when an Global exchange rates have left the United States and economy is in a bad time there is certainly that temptation Japan in turmoil, and fingers have been pointed at China. to put the pedal down on exports, and the way to do that is to The Japanese yen is currently soaring against the US dollar, make your currency cheaper. The fundamental problem is and in the United States, concerns are being raised about the slow, stagnant growth in the world economy, which increases weakness of the Chinese currency, the renminbi, which many the temptation to boost exports.” critics claim is been kept artificially low in order to maintain the country’s competitive advantage in global trade. US bases in Okinawa After a summer in which the yen kept rising, Oct. 25 saw “While things have calmed down outside of Okinawa — the dollar hit a 15-year low against the Japanese currency. I think the Senkaku dispute has convinced many Japanese This is bad for Japan: With the yen so strong, it loses a of the need for the US alliance — but down there, antibase competitive advantage in its exports as its goods become sentiment remains vibrant.” more expensive.

WEEKENDER 19 Feature: APEC in Yokohama

HERRY LAWFORD PHOTO

The United States knows something about this, having METI announced that it aimed to pen a deal with Vietnam to seen manufacturers go bust in the face of competition from mine the metals from the southeast Asian nation. Without Chinese factories producing cheaper goods. Influential them, Japan would not be able to produce parts used in figures such as US economist Paul Krugman have been high-tech goods including hybrid vehicles and cell phones vocal in pushing for China to allow its currency to appreciate, that require rechargeable batteries, high-powered magnets even as questions remain as to how much help a raise in the and miniaturized motors — areas where the nation has so far value of the renminbi would have — other issues, such as the staked out a long-term competitive advantage. current state of US industry, are just as much a reason for the For its part, China has denied that there is an embargo and country’s dour economy, according to many analysts. claims that any end to exports of rare earth metals is simply With so many economies in trouble, currency questions the consequence of more stringent customs checks. China have moved up the agenda for many other nations as well. has also said that there is a need for the nation to reduce its At an Oct. 23 meeting of G20 nations in South Korea, which exports due to concerns that supplies of the elements may run included delegations from the United States, China and Japan, out within the next two decades. international leaders vowed to allow markets to determine the The United States has also seen the issue of rare earths value of currencies and to avoid interventions that could lead to rise up the agenda over the last year. In March, the RESTART Act a “currency war.” The effectiveness of these actions, and how (Rare Earth Supply Technology And Resource Transformation nations keep their promises in South Korea, is yet to be seen. Act) was introduced to Congress in Washington D.C. by Representative Mike Coffman (Republican) of Colorado. nd then there is the surprising new issue of rare earth “There is no rare earth element mining taking place elements, which is sure to rear its head at APEC (see in North America, and with worldwide demand growing AJeff Kingston sidebar on previous page for further exponentially, the situation is only going to get worse,” analysis). As the Senkaku dispute heated up, China allegedly Coffman said in March. “Rare earth elements are critical cut off its supply of the materials, which are needed for the to high-technology industries and many critical weapons manufacture of many high tech products made in Japan (and systems. It is a critical national security issue with potentially elsewhere), leaving the nation scrambling to find new areas severe consequences. The looming crisis can be averted, but from which to mine the resource. the United States needs to act now.” According to the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade With such issues on the agenda, the three nations and Industry, the country depends on China for 90 percent are likely to have much more to talk about than they had of rare earth metals such as cerium oxide, neodymium bargained for only a few months ago. Moving forward on such and samarium. Vice Minister of the Economy Yoshikatsu complex problems, however, is not likely to happen overnight. Nakayama has said that with the embargo from China, which But at least in Yokohama, decision makers from the three currently produces 97 percent of the world’s supply, Japan’s nations will have a chance to talk, and hopefully even be able stocks are likely to dwindle down by the spring. On Oct. 22, to advance such talks a little further. W

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WEEKENDER 21 Minami Aoyama Office, 03-5785-4613 • Akasaka Office, 03-5414-2505 [email protected] / www.slateglobal.com 7, 5, 3, Fall! Fall! Fall!

NP&DJJEWEL PHOTOS

Kimono wearing is intimately tied to the Autumn season — for the Shichi Go (5-year-old boys wear their firsthakama pants and 3-year-olds can stop San (7-5-3) rite celebrating good health and longevity in October or November, shaving their heads). From this early start, the habit of wearing a seasonally 7-year-old girls wear their first Obi sash and visit their family’s local temple appropriate kimono to view fall’s explosion of foliage clearly never fades.

KAZUHIKO TERAMOTO PHOTO 7, 5, 3, Fall! Fall! Fall!

22 WEEKENDER Kimono and Koyo

7, 5, 3, Fall! Fall! Fall!

WEEKENDER 23 Parties, People, Places

Peninsula’s Pink Party

DJ Verbal, Yoon, Kane Kosugi, Megumi Yokoyama, Akira Watanabe, Fumie Nakajima and Megumi Okina

Below: Peninsula GM Malcolm Thompson, Eduardo Cardenas, Peninsula PP guru Mark Kobayashi

Right: Yuh Hayami, Peter Bear, Megumi Yokoyama, Fumie Nakajima, Kuniko Yamada

ort of tired of all the doom and gloom talk about the economic situation here in Japan and, of course, I am Shappy to see and hear that things are getting better. Knowing the Japanese as I do, I sincerely feel they’ll get it all together in the not too distant future. The hotel business PARTIES is picking up, and it’s nice to see more and more people in the major hotels and restaurants. Most of my hotel-related friends are pretty optimistic, and it’s nice to see the smiles PEOPLE on their faces when they talk about how much better room occupancy, banquet services bookings, etc. have been the last few months. Lets hope it continues. PLACES On the showbiz scene, friends at Kyodo Tokyo and Udo Artists International were super satisfied with the sold-out concerts for Sarah Brightman (Udo) and David Foster and WITH BILL HERSEY friends (Kyodo Tokyo). Tickets for each were ¥13,500, about what you would pay on Broadway, in Vegas or in London’s West End. Thanks to friends, I saw both shows, and believe me they were entertainment at its very best.

2424 WEEKENDER Parties,Parties, People People, & Places

PortuguesePortuguese TallTall ShipShip VisitsVisits YokohamaYokohama

Portugese Amb. Joao Pedro Zanatti, Sagres captain Luis Pedro Pinto Proenca Mendes

Below: Austrian Amb. Jutta Stefan Bastl, South African Amb. Gert J. Grobler, Colombian Amb. Patricia Cardenas

The Ambassador with three of the Sagres naval cadets

Polish Amb. Charge D’Affaires Miroslav Zasada his wife Danuta, Czech Amb. Jaromir Novotny his wife Dana

Looking to the near future, Udo has a star studded seems to be a favored destination. schedule with Olivia Newton John, Bon Jovi, Bad Company Friends in the know tell me that the Japanese people have and Sting doing concerts here. money but have become more careful of how and when they I had some time before the Foster show, so I checked spend it. I think we all see this. Expensive boutiques are often out Mitsukoshi’s new 12-floor annex in Ginza. Talk about empty, and more and more people, especially the younger chic, trendy, luxurious and pricey. The merchandise is all top ones, do their shopping at less expensive shops like Uniqlo, class and beautifully displayed. Service, as usual in Japan, H&M, Forever 21, etc. Most restaurants have inexpensive is excellent. After you shop until you’re ready to drop, there’s lunch sets on their menus. Yoshinoya’s is just ¥280 yen. At an excellent selection of both Japanese and international lunchtime you also see inexpensive obento stands everywhere. restaurants, as well as coffee, tea and pastry shops to relax My mailbox is aways full of flyers from new restaurants; I just in. Mitsukoshi’s advisors and planning department had to be got one for delivery of very cheap Mexican food — the world optimistic to take on a project like this. gets smaller. Being realistic, a complete recovery is going to take time. Still, when you think about it, we’re all pretty lucky. I drive through Yoyogi Park every day, and those long lines of All’s you have to do is watch BBC or CNN to see what so many homeless waiting for food handouts are not only depressing, people in this old world of ours have to go through every day they seem to be growing. A lot of both Japanese and expat to maintaiin even the most meager existence. Count your friends have lost their jobs or had salary or benefits cuts. blessings my friends, help others when you can and pray Several friends have left Japan to look for new jobs. Singapore things get better for everyone out there.

WEEKENDER 25 Parties, People, Places

Vietnam’s 65th Anniversary Vietnamese Amb. Phu Binh Nguyen his wife Le Thieu Ngan

Vietnamese defense attache and Mrs. Phung Quang Tao Vietnamese minister and Mrs. Ho Minh Tuan

Morrocco King’s Enthronement Biz tycoon, Enviromentalist Yasuyuki Nambu, Anita Walther, Moroccan Amb. Samir Arrour, Norwegian Amb. Arne Walther

Paula Fried (Canada) Dickie Comberbach, Lilo Maruyama, Anri Schroff

Astab Daboo performs at the Indian Culture Center

Ethnic Dining Co-president Vivek Anchorwoman Anita Pratrap (wife India Japan culture exchange Kothari, outgoing Bank of India of Norwegian amb.) Norwegian promoter Tokio Hasegawa, Chief Executive Munir Alam cultural counsellor Kristin Entrepeneur Atul Parekh, Four Johanson & author Hema Parekh Seasons Hotel’s Tetsuo Fujita

Rocking Pink Party at Peninsula’s Peter performance at the opening of the Commonwealth Games in Congratulations to the prestigious Peninsula Hotel general New Delhi. He’s performed in 65 countries and has received manager Malcolm Thompson, public relations man Mark many awards from both his and many other countries. His Kobayashi and the hotel staff on the success of their charity work includes productions for designer Pierre Cardin and party in the hotel’s popular and trendy Peter restaurant/bar/ he’s worked with my all time favorite band, Pink Floyd. lounge. The occasion was to launch the Pink Ribbon Breast Cancer Awareness Month. It was wall-to-wall beautiful Vietnam Celebrates its 65th National Day people, many of whom followed the dress code and wore Anniversary something pink. The crowd there enjoyed the sounds of DJ The Vietnamese ambassador to Japan, Phu Binh Nguyen, Verbal, the food and the ambiance. It was a great night for a his dynamic wife Le Thieu Ngan and their staff hosted a good cause, with proceeds of ¥1.68 million going to that cause. huge celebration at the Imperial Hotel on the occasion of their country’s independence day anniversary. The great Indian Dancer Astab Daboo Performs in Tokyo number and quality of guests there was proof positive of My thanks to outgoing Indian Ambassador Hemant Krishan the importance of Vietnam to Japan and of the excellent Singh and his marvelous wife Mrinalini for the opportunity to relations between the two counytries. Guests included visiting see a performance by the pioneer of modern dance in India, dignitaries from Vietnam, top ranking Japanese government Astab Daboo, at the Indian Culture Center in the Embassy. officials, diplomats and business leaders. Astab came directly to Tokyo after his highly acclaimed The program included several interesting and informative Parties, People, Places speeches, a musical program by a top Vietnamese string beautiful naval training tall ships. These included Chile’s orchestra, a bountiful buffet of Vietnamese, Japanese and Esmeralda, Mexico’s Cuauhtemoc and most recently the western foods, and a relaxed, friendly ambiance where you much-awarded Portugese Navy’s Sagres. The Sagres was on could chat with old friends and make new ones as well. It an around-the-world trip and stopped in Japan as part of the was a very special evening, perfect for the occasion. Kudos special events to celebrate the 150th anniversary of peace, to all concerned. I, by the way, fell in love with Vietnam and its friendship and commerce between Portugal and Japan. people when I visited there a few years ago and am planning I drove to Yokohama with Colombian Amb. Patricia another visit in the near future. Try and get to that fascinating Cardenas, and we, along with everyone there, marveled at country while you’re in this part of the world. the beauty of the illuminated tall ship with 22 of its main sails decorated with red Christ crosses. Once we we were piped The Portuguese Majestic Tall Ship, the N.R.P. Sagres, aboard and met Amb. Zanatti and the ship’s captain, Pedro Visits Yokohama Mendes, several of the 200 member crew took us under their My long time love of the sea and boats started back in wing, gave us a tour of the magnificent ship, served us food Perrysburg, Ohio where I was born. We didn’t have a sea, but and drinks, and told us some of their experiences sailing I spent much of my leisure time on small sailboat around the world. I have to admit that I had some on the Maumee River. I also made my first trip to thoughts about stowing away when the pulled out Japan on a Japanese freighter out of Long Beach, a few days later. My thanks to Amb. Zanatti for California. More recently, I’ve had the privilege including me in that great experience and to of spending time on some of the world’s most Amb. Cardenas for helping me get there.

Roxanne Thompson and Daniele Yoshikoshi Italian friends after a tough paint ball battle: 2009 Europe Judo champion Elmar Gasimov Bejing Raffaele Palmieri, Attilio Mafangi, Alessandra Olympics gold medal winner (Judo) Elnur Mammadli Adnan Rossi (Italian Embassy) Donato Romaniello (Audi) Huseyn (all from Azerbaijan ) and boxer Tomo Honda

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WEEKENDER 27 Travel Japan CLIFFORD DMELLOPHOTO CLIFFORD

Niseko at a Crossroads By John Barton

ow amazing it is that this rich and beautiful country,” said the American businessman and agriculturalist “HHorace Capron in 1872, “the property of one of the oldest and most densely populated nations of the world and in such near proximity, approachable on all sides by water, with harbors innumerable, should have remained so long unoccupied and almost as unknown as the African deserts.” ZACH DISCHNER PHOTO Up to the early 1990s, the same could still have been said of Hokkaido’s Niseko, a mountainous and spectacularly beautiful area What Hokkaido’s got on the western edge of the island encompassing two small towns, several ski resorts, golf courses and large tracts of farmland. Since Niseko has been the talk of foreign skiers in Japan, Asia and Australia for the past several years. What has brought so much attention to this small then Niseko has risen to international prominence, principally as a and remarkable corner of the world? winter resort replete with some of the most enviable powder snow The Winter — The skiing, boarding, and snow mobiling are all just amazing in the world. In 2007, Forbes magazine judged Niseko as the second as the snow is some of the best in the world. snowiest place on earth with an average snowfall of over 15 meters. The Summer — Across the island, Hokkaido is a stunningly beautiful place What accounts for this rise to international recognition as the with so much to do, from outstanding golfing, rafting, hiking, kayaking, horse riding to hot air ballooning and more. go-to spot for serious skiing? In the early ‘90s, a group of Australian The “Hokkaido” Brand — Supported by a government-sponsored tourism ski lovers and entrepreneurs who realized the potential of the area, initiative promoting Hokkaido, Niseko benefits from the wider exposure of the set up tour companies and invested in land, launching developments region’s unspoilt scenery, fresh food and clean air and water. Location and Access — The international airport in Sapporo has plenty of that raised the profile of this Japanese outpost. direct flights to locations including Hong Kong. The time zone and relatively While the Australian market undoubtedly underpinned the travel times mean that most Asia-Pacific travelers will not suffer too much from jet lag. early development, and, according to the Niseko Promotion Board, The Country — It is not only Hokkaido, it’s Japan with its reputation for safety, remains the dominant group in terms of winter visits, there has been cleanliness and superb food. a noticeable change in the last two or three years. New visitors and investors have emerged, principally from Asian markets — especially Hong Kong — to invest, build their own houses and look at larger “It is essential that both the public and private sector combine scale developments. their resources to ensure the local area’s services and facilities The involvement of players such as Capella, YTL and Pacific satisfy the needs of the emerging Asian markets,” says Daniel Century Premium Developments are bringing in institutional- Welk, General Manager of The Hilton Niseko Village. “Niseko has level investment, suggesting that there will soon be a new era of competitor destinations, and the area can not rely on prior successes accelerated growth for the area. in order to achieve future ones.” “These are the key underwriters of the long term development Martin adds, “The opportunity exists for Japan to create a world of the area,” believes Jonathan Martin, chairman of Niseko Alpine class alpine resort environment within the confines of Southeast Developments. “They bring the horsepower, vision, and the capability Asia. ... (the government) just needs to realize it and act.” to drive Niseko to the next level. Without them, Niseko could fade into Niseko has been on an amazing journey and is now undoubtedly a slower growth profile.” more familiar to people than the African deserts. But now its future It would be naïve to think that the future success of Niseko is needs to be negotiated carefully to ensure that the very virtues that inevitable though. The biggest challenge, as with developing any brought Niseko to where it is do not become diminished on the road pristine environment, is retaining its intrinsic charm and character. to further development. There has to be sensible, market-led-yet-sustainable development, John Barton lives in Niseko where he works for Meikle & Associates. and continued leadership, vision and cooperation from business, Barton is also a freelance writer and the author of several books. residents, local organizations and government at all levels.

28 WEEKENDER Three great rides for your city kiddy Travel Japan Ski season get-aways and going-ons

Evergreen Outdoor Center • Founded by David Enright, a long time resident of Hakuba, the Evergreen Outdoor Center has been operating guided tours and instruction in the Hakuba area since 2000. Evergreen has been instrumental in developing outdoor activities, ecological tours and mountain safety courses in the region.

• Evergreen seeks the growth and development of the human spirit through personal interaction with the natural environment, physical challenge and team work, with a strong emphasis on individual needs and safety. The center’s instructions courses include: Avalanche safety in backcountry terrain and techniques of skiing and snowboarding (at the resort). Getting there Happo One Resort in Hakuba, which is easily accessible by bus • Specially designed kids ski lessons are available (and can and train from Tokyo and is about 3.5 hrs by car include a nutritious hot lunch). Daycare is available as well for parents wishing to enjoy the slopes at their own pace. For more info Call (0261) 72-5150 or visit www.evergreen-outdoors.com

Hilton Niseko Village •Hilton Niseko Village is on the doorstep of 48 km of manicured slopes with 61 ski-runs, 38 lifts and gondolas and more than 30 km of challenging off-piste back country. The light, powdery snow in Niseko can reach a Snowfall of up to 12 meters in one season. • The Hilton hot spring includes an indoor and a stunning outdoor bath where one is able to experience nature at its best, thus combining deep relaxation with panoramic views of changing scenery and Mount Yotei. • The Wakka Spa offers unique menu and products to provide guests with a balance of mind, body and spirit.

Getting there The hotel is a 2-hour drive from the Shin-Chitose international airport in Sapporo. Sky bus runs shuttle buses from the airport For more info to Hilton Niseko village at the hour daily during the winter Call (03) 1364-4111 or visit www1.hilton.com season.

Niseko Landmark View • A 2-minute walk to the Hirafu Gondola is the only thing that keeps Landmark guests from the famous Niseko powder. All the creature comforts of a hotel can be enjoyed in contemporary luxury, with an option of two or three bedrooms on six levels.

• Every condominium has floor-to-ceiling windows to showcasing Mount Yotei, Hokkaido’s answer to Mount Fuji. There are two condominium styles: Deluxe and Premium, the difference being the floor level and interior decoration. Premium condominiums are located on floors 4-6 and have been designed with superior quality furnishings.

• As well as accommodation, Landmark can assist with lift passes, lessons, ski and snowboard rentals, airport For more info transfers, day trips, car rentals, onsen tours and more. Call (136) 21 2500 or email [email protected]

WEEKENDERWEEKENDER 29 29 Real Estate

30 WEEKENDER Real Estate La Tour Daikanyama

La Tour Daikanyama combines state- of-the-art architectural excellence with sophisticated Japanese elegance. The full range of modern amenities, including English-speaking concierge staff, a gym, gardens and well-appointed grounds, common rooms for parties and play areas for children, make this a perfect place to relax after your busy day, as well as provide a base as you work, play and head out to explore Japan. The facilities have been designed to be luxurious, safe and comfortable, and perfect for families with children. A residence and lifestyle you can be proud of. Just minutes from downtown Tokyo, La Tour Daikanyama is nestled amid the fashionable and vibrant Daikanyama neighborhood, renowned for its leafy, winding streets, cafes, fine G201 Type restaurants, boutiques and parks. (4 Bedroom) ¥1,520,000 per month For more information contact Sumitomo Realty & Development & Development Tel: (0120) 128-200 (English service), www.latour-daikanyama.jp

A301 Type (3 Bedroom) ¥1,090,000 per month

H201 Type (5 Bedroom) ¥1,630,000 Per Month Tokyo Apartment Search www.weekenderjapan.com/apartmentsearch

WEEKENDER 31 Bulletin Board

Organic Beauty Salon

An oasis in the heart of Tokyo, Elana Jade is an international organic beauty salon superbly situated in Azabu-Juban. All of the products used in Elana Jades exclusive treatments are guaranteed to be made entirely from 100 percent certified organic ingredients, and are delivered by highly trained, English-speaking staff. Skin analysis, Facial, Elana Jade k.k Massage, Waxing, Latorie Memorial Building 3F, Pregnancy and 1-5-19 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku Men’s treatments

Tel: 03 6438 9895 Email: [email protected] http: elanajade.com

School Search Support Services individual consultations interview preparation school recommendations waiting list management visit coordination tutoring introductions application completion extracurricular support

www.internationalschoolsguidebook.com telephone 03-5879-6825 APARTMENT（ 1R～2LDK）￥60,000～￥120,000 ODAKYU LINE（ 20～30mins from Shinjyuku） KEIKYU LINE（ 13mins from Shinagawa） E-mail [email protected] TEL 044-933-7000 www.minowagroup.jp/minowahomes Working with over 200 international schools throughout Japan

Saint Maur International School Quality Education within a Caring Family Environment since 1872 Pre-K (Age 2 1 / 2 ) to Grade 12 - Coeducational ● Montessori ● International Primary Curriculum (IPC) ● International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) ● International Baccalaureate (IB) ● Advanced Placement (AP) ● SAT Reasoning Test ● SAT Subject Tests ● PSAT/NMSQT ● Lions-Quest international programme ● Trinity International Music Examination ONLY

r o Ecole française de Saint Maur o y m k Classes à effectifs réduits et pédagogie différenciée C To pour une scolarisation de la maternelle au CM2 entral ● Programmes de l'Education nationale française ● Professeurs des écoles qualifiés et expérimentés ● Maternelle en anglais selon la méthode Montessori avec séance quotidienne de langage en français ● Elémentaire en français avec certaines disciplines et activités en anglais [email protected] www.stmaur.ac.jp Accredited by the Council of International Schools & New England Association of Schools and Colleges. Registered as Gakko-Hojin by the Japanese Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology.

83 Yamate-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-8654 Tel: 045 641 5751 / Fax: 045 641 6688

32 WEEKENDER Bulletin Board

Now you can get a small taste of the classifieds in our printed publication every issue and access Japan’s largest online classifieds at: WEEKENDER http://classifieds.weekenderjapan.com B ulletin Board

Black frame and engine with silver tank. Bike Canadian guy , American girl, British girl and more detailed photos available; www.flickr.com/ FOUR WHEELS has been well maintained for the past 6 months Japanese guy. The montlhly bills are shared. photos/8519161@N of ownership. JCI (Shaken) good till june 2012. CONTACT: (080) 5527-5093 CONTACT: (70) 5011-9913 or forsaletokyo@ Customized; seat, rear fender, front fender, yahoo.com panel, air filter, handlebars, Email or call for pics 8 mat room with huge closet and details. Serious offers only please. We have a large 8 mat room with huge closet CONTACT: (080) 3208-0429 space in our house available November 1st. Share furnished 5 bedroom house 5 min walk to Sasazuka station. Also walk to YoyogiUrhara BuildBuild aattractivettractive Japan Japaneseese and stand o andut fro mstand the crow outd! or Shimokitazawa. Cable TV and internet. 8 mat fromOnly Wthee ca crowd!n meet you rOnly very sp Weecific canneeds !meet Call no wyour!

room, 70.000 yen per month plus share bills. veryLocat specificed in the bus needs!tling neigh bCallorhoo now!d of Shibuya, Porsche 911 997 -Carrera 4S We Japanese Language School prides itself on innovative CONTACT: (090) 9810-4710 customer service and effective, results-driven training 2007, 7,800 km, Immaculate condition , available Locatedfor profes si inon al thetype s. bustling neighborhood of Brand new Rayban Sunglasses Experienced instructors offer customized lessons to meet now; please check www.jce-autos.jp/stock/ Shibuya,learners' s pe Wecific bu Japanesesiness and co mm Languageunication aim s School, Brand new rayban sunglasses bought JJPY so you're guaranteed to acquire the Japanese you actually CONTACT: (090) 2554-0121 15,000 sale for 9,000 or best offer. pridesneed fo ritself your w onorki ninnovativeg life. customer service andAn deffective, We Japanese results-driven Language School is otrainingffering for pro- CONTACT: (080) 3930-293 Start-up Campaign from November 1st to November 20th, or until seats are filled. fessionalReserve yo utypes.r spot w hExperiencedile you can! instructors offer customized lessons to meet learners’ specific Suzuki ZZ inch up Access：3 minutes walk from Shibuya station, across from 5000km still in great condition eazy to ride very TOYS business OIOI (MA RandUI). 4communicationF, 1-22-8 Jinnan, Shib uaims,ya-ku T osoky oyou’re. fast for a 50cc, 60,000 yen guaranteedTel：03-5489- 6to48 0acquire the Japanese you actu- CONTACT: (080) 1260-0333 Sell Nintendo DSi - JPY11000 (Tokyo) allyww needw.we-j forapa nyour.com working life. House for rent in Nara I sell my Nintendo DSi for 11,000 yen (because And We Japanese Language School is offering 2-storyNara, House (4LDK) for rent near I don’t have time anymore to play). It has been Start-up Campaign from November 1st to No- Yamato-Yagi, Nara. Semifurnished+appliances, used only a few times and and has no scratch vember 20th, or until seats are filled. clean, modern. 56,000 yen/month + deposit. on it. The color is black. It is sold with with 2 Reserve your spot while you can! 2005 BMW318i Convenient to Osaka+Nara City. Details+photos: screen protections already applied, 2 stylus (the My clean and nice silver bmw for sale, Age 2005, http://tinyurl.com/dzcytm normal one and a big one for writting games), a Access 3 minutes walk from Shibuya station, 94,000 km, Sedan 4 doors PW, PS, AW, AIRCON, CONTACT : (07 )4446-0267 or [email protected] transparent cover case, and his power cable. No across from OIOI (MARUI). 4F, 1-22-8 Jinnan, AIRBAG, AT transmition, Well maintenance at games are sold with it but of course a quick demo Shibuya-ku Tokyo. BMW dealer, new tire last monthe, Shaken next Rent by Week: LOCATION LOCATION without games can be done. Meeting point is Tel : (03) 5489-6480 year March, Very clean inside and outside, No LOCATION preferrable in Shinjuku or Shibuya area. accident record Wi-fi included, Large 8 mat room, furnished CONTACT: (080) 3528-1371 www.we-japan.com CONTACT: (090)1855-6101 Selling Bicycle ENDO SHOJI Japanese style with fridge, hot carpet, television, Bought 4 month ago ( with receipt and warranty microwave, hot water pot, Y20,000/week. available) Green color, Automatic Dynamo Light, Access to 4 train lines and 3 bus lines. Mita Shimano 6 speeds Gearshift system, Front subway, Namboku subway, JR Keihin Tohoku, Basket, Front and rear manual brakes, Lock Toden Arakawa lines system provided with two keys, 3 months control CONTACT: (070) 5011- 9913 or forsaletokyo@ (16.09.10) paper provided, Rarely used, prenium yahoo.com condition, Recommended by the Japan Bicycle association. Can be delivered in Tokyo, let me JPY58000 Private Room (10 tatami sized) BMW 525i M know :-) I live around Shinagawa/Osaki/Oimachi/ near Ueno station (Ueno) Sport model 2008 - Full English 2010 Navigation Kamata, but I can deliver further, with same price! Clean, quaint house located in 2 min walking to system - price 4.45 M, 12,000 km; please check Will sell for 14,000 or best offer. Iriya station, in 6 min walking to Ueno station. www.jce-autos.jp/stock/ CONTACT : (080)-4377-1982 or abukiclash@hotmail. We have 6 private rooms, and 1 room avairable CONTACT: (090) 2554-0121 com now. Rent : 58,000 yen/month, 10 tatami Save An Animal Today Japanese style room w/closet, Own air- Awesome Handmade Doll House Adopt or sponsor orphaned dogs, cats, and 2000 Nissan March conditioning , Share utility bills, No key money, Awesome Handmade Doll House other animals rescued both in Tokyo and Osaka Yokosuka, 2000 Nissan March ,Very Clean and no guarantor required,One month deposit This was made by Grandpa and modeled on the at Animal Refuge Kansai. ARK animals need Well Maintained, Low Mileage! Only 37,540 required (refundable) Shared space: Kitchen actual house he was living in at the time. you! To adopt or foster a pet, please email tokyo- (60,416 km), Automatic Locks, CD Player/ Stereo, (Utensils, refrigerators, a microwave oven, Along with the house comes an assortment of [email protected] or call 050-1557-2763. AC/ Heat , 1yr JCI , $1,500 USD OR 125,000 JPY gas range, a rice cooker, a toaster) , Lounge (TV, doll furniture for each room, many pieces also www.arkbark.net OBO Cable TV, DVD player), 1 Bathroom w/ shower , 2 handmade.This is unique and probably priceless CONTACT : (046) 896-2462 Separate Toilets , 1 Washing Machines , Internet in the family heirloom lexicon, but there are (free) no great grandchildren yet, and the grown up CONTACT: (090) 3545-4740 grandkids all live in homes too small to store Rare Thomas bike stuff.COME AND SEE before you decide! A STEAL kids 10inch thomas bike has trainer wheels seat at Y20,000 for the house and oodles of furniture is torn. 4000 yen CLOTHING (ceramic tub and toilet, swiss wall clock, beds, CONTACT : (080)1260-0333 cabinets, kitchen, tables, sofas, stools, etc, etc. = a whole large boxfull) and very unique. Probably appropriate from about age 5 up. OR you can buy just the doll house, and get your own ROOMS/ SHARED Tokyo IT Services furniture, for Y5000.See more stuff for sale at: English computer repair and data recovery Selling Rover Mini www.flickr.com/photos/8519161@N02/sets/ Selling red mini rover 1300 i great for runing, service in Tokyo—we fix all computer prob- CONTACT: (070) 5011- 9913 or forsaletokyo@ lems! One-minute walk from JR Yamanote line about 61,000 km on the clock ,,shaken expired” yahoo.com JPY300,000 (ibaraki) Hamamatsucho station, exit S5. Three-minute CONTACT : ( 080) 3327-3728 walk from Daimon subway station, exit B3. Open 10am–6:30pm. Call 03-3437-2312. SERVICES www.tokyo-it.com TWO WHEELS USED AUTHENTIC COACH BAG 18,000YEN AUTHENTIC COACH BAG 18,000 YEN , sligthly All postings on our website Private furnished room used bag. i bought it last may 2010 at Maihama The Meat Guy are free. Premium postings will be printed in the Nice private room available NOW in a sharehouse Outlet. with WARRANTY paper good for 1 year and Get it from The Meat Guy! Turkeys, Sausages, Weekender and available in Hatsudai (6min walk from the station) you card holder (red). Steaks, Ribs, Cheese, and More! Over 400 items online. For more information can walk to the nishi-shinjuku business district CONTACT: (090) 2451-0706 or jaldepolla@yahoo. to choose from, all delivered super fast right contact our sales team at: within 10 minutes and you can also walk to com to your door. Mention “Weekender” when you yoyogi uehara within 15 minutes, and stroll to checkout and we’ll subtract 500 yen from your (03) 5549-2038 or yoyogi park in 25 minutes. Private room huge, French Style Univ. Student bag bill. www.TheMeatGuy.jp Yamaha SR400 - JPY275000 (Tokyo) move in ready, lot of storage space! Sharemates: Y2,200 shoulder length strap, canvas and leather [email protected] 2004 Yamaha SR400 6500 km. Good Condition.

WEEKENDER 33 Your Move. Our World.

Power and Profession on the Move To trust Asian Tigers taking care of your move. Having been moving families and businesses across the world for 45 years, we know what it takes to deliver a smooth move. Get in touch today for a quote and experience the di erence of Asian Tigers.

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