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A Journey up the Baram River to Mount Dulit and the Highlands of Borneo Author(S): Charles Hose Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol

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A Journey up the Baram River to Mount Dulit and the Highlands of Borneo Author(S): Charles Hose Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol A Journey up the Baram River to Mount Dulit and the Highlands of Borneo Author(s): Charles Hose Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 1, No. 3 (Mar., 1893), pp. 193-206 Published by: The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1773815 . Accessed: 17/01/2015 09:40 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Geographical Journal. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 128.235.251.160 on Sat, 17 Jan 2015 09:40:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions , . , . .. .. ... , . The GeographicalJournal. No. 3. MARCH,189 o. VOL. I. A JOURNEYUP THE BARAMRIVER TO MOUNTDULIT AND THE HIGHLANDSOF BORNEO. By CHARLES HOSE, Resident of the Baram District, Sarawak, Borneo.* Hts Highness the Rajah of Sarawak llaving,^ccyle1aunicated to me the wish of the Royal GeobraphicalSociety for some accountof my journey to the head-watersof the Baram and TinjarRivers, I have pleasurein complyingwith the request. It maynot be amiss to remind earena geographicalaudience that Sarawakis a State situatedon the north-westof Borneo,ruled over by an English Rajah,Sir CharlesJohnson Brooke,G.C.M.G., nephew of the original Rajall Brooke,whose careel must be knorn to most of yotl. The countryhas been quite recently placed under British protection. The boundaryof the State is TanjongDatu, on the extreluewest, long. 109°40' E., and the mouthof the Trusan river the mosteasterly point, long. 115°13' E., with a width of about250 miles inlandfrola the coast. The coast-lilleis 460 statute miles in lentth. I may also recall the fact that in 1881 Mr.W. M. Crocker,who had been Residentof Sarawak,and whosename is intimatelyassociated with NorthBorneo, read at one of the Society's tneetings.olne interesting notes on irawak and NortherllBorneo, which will be found in the Proceedirzgsfor 1881,p. 193. It will be seen from his mapthat Baram at that date belonged to Brunei and not to Sarawak,and that its geographywas almost a blank. It is true that the Rajahdid ascend the river for souledistance before the provincewas ceded,but that was merelya runningvisit. The Baram R;ver discharges itself into the Chilla Sea at lat. 4° 37t15" N., long. 115°59' 30" E. Its width at the mouthis aboutthree- quartersof a mile, with sandspitsrunninb out oll either side to the distance of 2 miles. These sandspits are waslled away during the * Read at the Eveninz,Meeting of the Royal GeographicalSociety, Jazluary 16th 1893. MapSp. 288. NO.III, --MARCH,1893.] O This content downloaded from 128.235.251.160 on Sat, 17 Jan 2015 09:40:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 194 A JOURARY UP THE BAR&MPsIAtER TO north-eastmonsoon, lzut appear again in the south-west monsoorl. About2 miles out there is, unfortunately,a bar,xvllich prevents vessels drawing more than 7 feet of water from entering the river. There is, howeversfairly good ancholagefor ships in the bays oll eaeh side of the Barampoint, so long as the windis north-eastor south-west, but when due west there is no shelterwhatever. To give an idea of the xolumeof water runningdown, I may state that it is constantlyfound to be fresh at the distanceof 2 miles outside; and very rarelyin the dryest weather the tide reachesClaudetown, a distance of GOmiles. The land on each side of the mouthconsists of allevial deposits,marshy and coveredwith casuarinatrees and coarsegrass, the latter affording pastura;e for deer and wild bufEaloes.For the filst 15 miles up the liver the reachesare long and devoid of interest, excepting for the xvonderfulgrowth of the Nipa palms,which line the banks,growing to a heiDhtof 30 feet, and fromwhich the natives procureboth salt and sugar. The groundis coveredwlth a networkof roots,and constantly flooded,the whole countryfor miles being quite flat. At Pagalayanthe land is a little higher,the trees being larger and presentinga more healthy appearance. At this point the depth of the river ;s ;n some places as much as 20 fathozns. For the ne:t 15 miles the country consists mainlyof grassyplains, which have been formedby the river altering its course,ashing awa;yfrom one side and siltiIlg up on the other. The jungle here is dense,thorny, and low, and few inhabitants are found in this locality. At the tnouthof the Bakong River-a tributary-small farins have been established,arld plantations of frllit- trees and cocoarlutpalms are dotted about wherever an acre of high land appears. A few miles farther on are lakes of no great depthor size, which have apparentlybeen madeby the overflowof the rivel at varioustimes; and at one very peculiarbend of the liver a canal has been cut, therebysaving about4 miles. The first appearanceof really high ground is at Claudetown,the Governmentstation and principal town of the district,situated about 60 milesfrom the mouth. H&rethe Chinesemerchants have erectedmagnificent shops and warehollses,and the ^hole trade of the river is centred at this spot-lat. 4° 3'1U"N., long. 1lSiO 32' 30"E. The fort,stanaing immediately above the riverat the height of about 50 feet,commands a view of the wholetownship. Fromthis spot Mount )fulu, and,indeedf the wholeof the Mulurantxe is distinctly seen. The Governrnentsteam-launch, Cocon2at, is stationed here for up-riveruse; and the rnail-steamer,Adeh, calls about once a month, bringing vIp supplies for the district, such as ironware,crockery, salt-fish, cotton- goods, tobacco,cloth, etc., and taking back cargoesof rattans,gutta- percha,india-rubber, beeswas, edible birds'nests, and camphor. Other steaulersthat cocasionallycall at this port are the Sri P?tri and the Bt4jangBar??t. The LornaDoone leaves mails at the lighthouseon her This content downloaded from 128.235.251.160 on Sat, 17 Jan 2015 09:40:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions tIOUNT DULIT AND THE HIGHLANDSOF BOP.NTEO. 195 journey nolthward. The jungle in the immediate vicinity of Claude- town is composed of hard and valuable timber, solue fine specimens of which are the Meribo trees (Afzelta palembanica)measuring 5 feet in diameter, and sound all through. Acres of forest might be felled and conveyed to the river at very little expense. rrwenty-five miles above Claudetown is the junction of the Tinjar River, the plincipal tributary of the Baram; the country around is flat, with dense jungle, abounding with rattans. lIere the Chinese have commencedworking " shingles " of ironwood, which is very plentiful. The nest place of note is the town of Long Tutau, situated at the uouth of the Tutau River. The races of people living here are the Long Kiputs and Batu Blas; and it is in this locality that the agerlts "'w' ,,,, SEA Dl.&E LONG-I{OUSE3. Of the various traders in Claudetotvn,both Chinese and AIalay, congle- gate to barter with the tribes from the interior. hIany of these traders build houses upon ] afts, which are mooredalong the banks of the river at every landing stabe. In these floating houses they live for mont;hs, and even years, until the raft is stocked with produce. They then float down liver to (:laudetown7 sometimes blinging as many as 250,000 canes on one raft. At Lon^,Ikang the high land appears again, moun- tains sloping down to the rivel's bank. At Batll Gading the course of the river is through a liinestone district, and the scenery is very beauti- ful. At Long Salai tlle rapids coznmence. Here the :I3aramis about 100 yards across. Passin^, on to Long Mari, there are numerolls islands formed of pebbles, which are conTeredwhen the rinTeris swollen, but at other times o 2 This content downloaded from 128.235.251.160 on Sat, 17 Jan 2015 09:40:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions A JOURNEitCrp THE BARABI 196 RIVERTO are dry,and forma pleasingfeatule in the mouth landseape. Fromhere to the of the AkariEt;ver the streamflows distriet. On througha somewhatstriking either side are vast sandstoneand shale froin the watel's edge elifEs,rising sheer to a eonsiderableheight, narrowing places to about 50 yards. the river in The stream rushesover huge boulders terrifierate, eausint,dangerous at a baekwaters,and sueking downimmense logs, w}lieh eome to the surfaee at they about 100 yards from where disappear. Giham Tipang is a partieularlydangerous rapid, the passin^,of whieh is aceomplishedat very eonsiderablerisk; the volume of water dashing over the roeks7 and rising in waves 5 or 6 feet high7 akesit appearimpossible for a boat is to pass. The " dugout,'7however, tied foreand aft with rattans,and draggedthrough the middleof the rapidsby one half of the Inen,the others ^vith reinainingin the boat to worL poles. The noise is deafening7eaeh man voiee; alld shoutingat the top of his after pulling the boatfor aboutan hour, is reaehed,and the headof the rapid immediatelythose on the roeksjump into the begin paddlingwith all hoat and their laight into some baekwater beingearried baek over for fear of the rapid. For a moment the scarcelymoves, but at last "dugout" their unitedefforts tell, and the boat slowlyto make way to the begins nearest bank.
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