Karim Lalani [email protected] www.exoticgetaways.us 972-505-8470

ATHENS, GREECE

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Sights in ancient Greece, and especially Athens, take on a larger importance than in most other places in the world. They are histories of democracy, Western civilization and philosophy firsthand. You can't help but walk around the Parthenon and the rest of the Acropolis and dream about the great ones who have come before you and whose footsteps you're in.

Athens is a must-see on any European tour. The ancient and modern merge in this city in ways that are fascinating and sometimes overwhelming. Pollution wreathes the golden stones of the Acropolis and obscures views of the Saronic Gulf. Cars bleat and belch among ranks of concrete high-rises.

But then you turn down a cobbled lane and discover vine-swathed tavernas, tortoises trundling through ancient ruins and bazaars teeming with dusty treasures. Or perhaps you will encounter a sleek cafe, art gallery or an outdoor cinema that serves ouzo under the stars. Greece's capital has been reinventing itself, and the results could not be more charming.

The metro routes are extensive, and the stations dazzle with marble and antiquities. Congested downtown streets have been turned into pedestrian walkways, greatly reducing Athens' notorious smog and noise. Hotels, museums and archaeological sites have been revamped. Gentrified districts—such as Gazi—host cafes, clubs and chic restaurants, which even boast smoke-free sections.

The years since 2010 brought Greece's most severe economic crisis of modern times, together with harsh austerity measures, social unrest and even talk of defaulting and leaving the Eurozone, the 17-nation group of EU countries that use the euro as their common currency. Yet there is a built-in certainty that Greece will ride this storm as it has many others. Greeks are proud of their Olympic history, their renovated capital city and—most of all—their proven ability to surmount obstacles.

Despite the media images of frequent demonstrations and protest marches, some of which have become violent and lead to scuffles with the police, Athens should remain firmly on the travel map, prized for both its ancient charms and its modern makeover.

Sights—The Acropolis; the ancient Agora (marketplace); the Temple of Olympian Zeus; the changing of the evzone guards outside Parliament in Syntagma Square; Lykavittos Hill; a day trip to Cape Sounion for the sunset; a one-day cruise around the Saronic Islands.

Museums—The Acropolis Museum; the Museum of the Ancient Agora of Athens; the Benaki Museum; the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art; the National Archaeological Museum. Memorable Meals—The spectacular view of the Acropolis and the creative cuisine at Orizontes Lykavittou; the mind- boggling variety of traditional Greek dishes served at Eleas Gi; modern Greek taverna fare in trendy Gazi; rooftop dining in Thissio; award-winning seafood specialties at Varoulko.

Late Night—Rebetiko music at Stoa Athanaton; outdoor cinemas during summer; Greek and international jazz and blues at Half Note Jazz Club; live acts at Gazarte; bars and clubs in the Agia Eirini neighborhood; open-air summer dance clubs by the sea; an Athens and Epidaurus Festival performance in the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus.

Walks—Through the Plaka (Old Athens) and the flea market in the Monastiraki area; along the traffic-free "archaeological promenade" Apostolou Pavlou in Thissio.

Especially for Kids—The virtual-reality presentations at the Hellenic Cosmos (adults will love it, too); the bird collection at the Attica Zoological Park; the Hellenic Children's Museum in the Plaka.

Athens sits in a basin in southeastern Greece, closed in by the mountains of Pendeli, Parnitha, Imitos and Egaleo and opening toward the Saronic Gulf to the west.

The Acropolis remains the city's massive, gracious centerpiece. The Plaka area, or Old Athens, lies directly below, and its labyrinth of walkways acts almost as a shield, protecting the sacred hill from the modern city. At the outskirts of the Plaka, to the northeast, is Syntagma Square. The city's business center—with its offices, stores and hotels—begins there as one corner of the commercial triangle (the downtown pedestrian zone). The other two corners of the triangle are roughly Omonia Square (a somewhat seedy neighborhood) and Monastiraki Square (site of the famous flea market). Ermou Street, the "base" of the triangle, is one of the city's main shopping concourses. Beyond Syntagma lies Kolonaki, an up-market residential district and home to chic boutiques and several foreign embassies, behind which rises Athens' highest peak, Lykavittos Hill.

Most of the major archaeological sites and museums are within a 2.5-mi/4-km radius of Syntagma Square. The neighborhoods of Psiri, Thissio, Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio and Gazi to the north and west of the Acropolis have been transformed into trendy entertainment areas with traditional tavernas, elegant restaurants, fashionable nightspots and art galleries. Farther north along Kifissias Avenue are the upper-class residential suburbs and upscale commercial areas such as Psychico, Filothei, Maroussi, Kifissia and Ekali—favorite locations for foreign embassies, consulates and companies, and for private schools and colleges.

The city extends southwest to the coast, encompassing the sprawling port of Piraeus, and to its south, the upper-class coastal suburbs and beaches of Faliro, Kalamaki, Glyfada, Voula and Vouliagmeni. Just off this coast, 30 minutes to two hours away by ferry, catamaran or hovercraft, are the nearby islands of the Saronic Gulf: Aegina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses.

Once a fortified village entirely contained atop the Acropolis, Athens grew into one of the most powerful city-states in the ancient world. As a successful trading city with its own port, it became Greece's leading metropolis. The fifth century BC ushered in Athens' Golden Age, the classical period that has had such a profound effect on the development of Western thought. The city's government evolved into the world's first democracy. Its leaders rebuilt the city's monuments in marble— the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Odeon. Socrates and then Plato shaped the world of philosophy. Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes wrote their seminal dramatic works and saw them performed.

Athens' Golden Age was influential but short-lived. The Peloponnesian War (431-404 BC) against rival Sparta was disastrous. Soon, the powerful Greek city-states fell apart and into the hands of Philip of Macedon, then to his son Alexander the Great. The three centuries following Alexander the Great's death are known as the Hellenistic period, when the arts, literature and science flourished. The Roman Empire took control in 146 BC, but Athens was highly respected and was treated well. Integration into the Byzantine Empire was more radical. Venetians ruled in the 13th century, and the Turks took over in 1453, holding power in Greece until the 19th century.

Greece became an independent country in 1829, and Athens was named the capital in 1833. It was the seat of monarchies and democracies and the scene of uprisings and civil war in the 20th century, as the country struggled to join the ranks of developing nations. Since the country's bid for economic and political stability, the city has become a popular destination, both for its historic sites and its proximity to the Greek islands. Location

Cruise ships moor in the terminal at the port of Piraeus, approximately 6 mi/10 km southwest of Athens' city center. With 11 berths, the terminal can accommodate even the largest vessels. http://www.olp.gr.

Internal shuttle buses deliver passengers from the individual berths to the international-passengers terminal, where facilities include duty-free shops, exchange offices and a bank, and parking for as many as 60 buses, plus a heliport. Metro Line 1 connects Monastiraki and Omonia Square in central Athens with the harbor, and taxis are cheap and readily available.

The quintessential excursion into Athens will usually take in the Acropolis and other major sights as well as a chance to stroll and shop in the Plaka district. Other excursions could include a half-day trip to Sounio, a trip to Corinth or a full-day tour of Delphi.

Potpourri

The first modern Olympic Games, held in Athens in 1896, saw 14 nations competing. All 245 athletes were male.

Greece is one of only two countries to have competed in every modern Olympic Games. The other is Australia.

The ubiquitous tomato was only introduced to Greece, in Athens, in 1818.

Greeks are the biggest cheese-eaters in Europe—and most of the cheese they eat is feta.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

A trip to Athens must start with a visit to the Acropolis. The site, one of the earliest settlements in Greece and the center of Greek genius during the Golden Age, never fails to impress. Exploring it is awe-inspiring for first-time and repeat visitors alike. Among the structures to admire on the Acropolis are the Parthenon, the small Ionian temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion Temple. Nearby, the ultramodern Acropolis Museum displays portable objects removed from the site since 1834. The Elgin Marbles, the most famous artifacts from the Parthenon, remain in London despite Greek pleas to return them.

An archaeological park surrounds the Acropolis, so take time to appreciate the ruins you'll pass on your climb, including the amphitheaters on the south slope. And be sure to pause to take in the various views of the city.

From the Acropolis, you need walk only a couple miles/kilometers in any direction to see most of the major archaeological sites and museums in Athens. Start by taking a trip to the top of the Hill of Philopappou for a great view of the city. From there, head north to the Agora, which was the center of ancient Athens' city life. Nearby you will find the Roman Forum and the graceful Tower of the Winds. Continue east through the frenetic-yet-delightful Plaka neighborhood to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Zeus. Watch the skirted soldiers (called Evzones) perform a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in front of the Parliament in Syntagma Square. Afterward, relax at the Zappeion, a beautiful garden with shaded benches.

Make time to see some of the city's many wonderful museums. The best are the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum, filled with an unsurpassed collection of Greek art and artifacts.

If you aren't planning to visit any of the Greek isles on your trip, spend a day at one of the numerous beach clubs in the city's southern suburbs. These clubs have sandy beaches, watersports facilities and a range of other amenities.

Before you set out to see all you can, pick up a free map from the Greek National Tourist Organization at its information center opposite the Acropolis Museum at Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Take advantage of the bargain-priced 30 euro multipass that covers entry to the Acropolis, the Agora of Athens, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Forum, Theater of Dionysus, Hadrian's Library and the Kerameikos cemetery.

Historic Sites

Acropolis Athens, Greece This hill was a sacred site for ancient Athenians. To reach the plateau, you enter 210-321-4172 through an immense portal, and at the top are the ruins of three temples built in Phone: the fifth century BC. From the top of the Acropolis, you also get a sweeping view http://odysseus.culture.gr of Athens and the Saronic Gulf. Two paths lead up to the Acropolis: One is off Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, and the other is off Theorias Street in Plaka. Wear sturdy shoes and take plenty of water for the ascent, which is steep, slippery and scorching hot midday. The hill is disabled-accessible with the use of an elevator; ask the guard at the exit of the Acropolis site to escort you to the elevator. This is a construction-site-style lift that doesn't operate during heavy rain or when strong winds are blowing. Propylaea. This monumental gateway is your reward for winding your way to the top of the Acropolis. As you enter the small, rectangular hall, stop for a moment to marvel at the six Doric columns. Built of pure marble, this was the first building to combine Ionic and Doric styles.

Temple of Athena Nike. Also called the Temple of the Wingless Victory. On the southwest side of the Propylaea, this small temple once contained a sanctuary and an altar for animal sacrifices.

Parthenon. The largest building on the Acropolis is one of the world's most awe- inspiring man-made sites. The Parthenon (built by Pericles to honor the goddess of wisdom, Athena, patron of the city) has been the model for thousands of buildings throughout the world. Except for its roof, which was made of wood, the Parthenon was constructed of marble. The temple stood intact for millennia, until the ruling Ottomans used it to store gunpowder, which was ignited by a Venetian bomb in 1687. Most of the artifacts from the temple are housed in the Acropolis Museum nearby.

Erechtheion. Ahead and to the left as you face the Parthenon. Built on the site of the legendary contest between Athena and Poseidon, the temple was a shrine to Athena and the twin deity Poseidon-Erechtheus. Its most distinctive feature was the ingenious design of the six support columns on the south side—carved in the shape of maidens, or caryatids. The originals have been replaced by models, but three genuine caryatids are on display in the Acropolis Museum a few yards/meters away.

Daily 8 am-7 pm. The Acropolis entrance fee of 12 euros adults includes the Acropolis archaeological site (plus the Theater of Dionysus, Agora site and museum, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Forum, and the Kerameikos site and museum). Phone 210-321-4172 (archaeological site). http://odysseus.culture.gr.

Agora There are two entrances: at 24 Just below the Acropolis, the Agora (or market) was the commercial and public center of ancient Athens. This is where Socrates spent his days in Adrianou St. in Monastiraki and at rational debate and where Western philosophy and politics were born. the west end of Polygnotou Street in The site's museum, housed inside the splendidly restored Attalos Plaka Arcade, features many of the artifacts found in the area. The Theseion, Athens, Greece within the Agora, is the best-preserved ancient temple in Greece. Built in the fifth century BC, it honors Athena and Hephaestus. The American Phone: 210-321-0185 School of Classical Studies excavates the site and offers ample http://odysseus.culture.gr information online (http://www.ascsa.edu.gr). Daily 8 am-3 pm. Admission to the Agora and museum is 4 euros. There are two entrances: at 24 Adrianou St. in Monastiraki and at the west end of Polygnotou Street in Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-321-0185. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

Areopagus Athens, Greece This low hill, named for the war god Ares, is near the Acropolis. It was the site of the supreme court of Ancient Greece, where Orestes, persecuted by the Furies, was tried (and acquitted) after murdering his mother Clytemnestra and where St. Paul addressed the Athenians in AD 51. It's not much to look at now: As you come down from the Acropolis, turn right at the ticket booth. After approximately 150 ft/45 m, you will reach the slippery steps carved into the rock that will take you to the top of the hill.

Byzantine Churches Athens, Greece Several Byzantine churches, built between the 11th and 12th centuries AD, are scattered around the city. The following are worth seeing from the inside as well as the outside: Panagia Gorgoepikoos. The humble Byzantine church standing beside the large Metropolis Cathedral has a much longer history than its majestic neighbor. It was built in the 12th century on the ruins of an ancient temple. The temple and other ancient buildings served as a source of building material when the church was constructed. This explains why the walls incorporate many marble murals, such as the one from the fourth century BC showing the signs of the zodiac. Mitropoleos Square (at the junction of Mitropoleos and Agias Filotheis streets), Plaka.

Kapnikarea. Located halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma Square.

Agii Apostoli. In the Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos.

Agii Theodori. On the Dragatsaniou Street side of Klathmonos Square on Stadiou Street. Churches are open to the public when services are being held and a few hours afterward. Also open for daily prayers 7 am-1 pm and 4-6:30 pm (depending on the whim of the parish priest).

Hadrian's Arch Olgas Avenue Standing beside the Temple of Olympian Zeus, this tall marble structure used to be the city gate connecting the original town of Athens (present- Athens, Greece day Plaka) with the Roman quarters. It was built in AD 131 to honor the Roman emperor Hadrian. Free. Olgas Avenue (at Amalias Avenue), Athens.

Kerameikos 148 Ermou St. The city's ancient cemetery dates to the fifth century BC. Throughout this site are many beautiful tombstones with depictions of the dead Athens, Greece along with mythological scenes. The ancient city walls, the Dipylon Gate Phone: 210-346-3552 and the Sacred Gate can be found near the site. The cemetery is https://www.facebook.com/kerameikos- named after the ceramists who for many centuries operated their 201751926621661 workshops at this location. The numerous findings of their craft are on display in the small museum. The archaeological site is open daily 8 am- 5 pm May-October, 8 am-3 pm November-April. 2 euros. 148 Ermou St., Thissio, Athens. Phone 210-346-3552. https://www.facebook.com/kerameikos-201751926621661.

Lykavittos Hill The hill is in the center of the city Lykavittos is the tallest hill in the Athens basin, with an altitude of 968 ft/295 m, Athens, Greece and offers sweeping views of the city. It's located in the Kolonaki area of central Athens. In one hour, you can "see" the central landmarks of the city (including the Acropolis and the Olympic Stadium) as well as the coast and surrounding mountains. Coin-operated binoculars are available. The tiny and quaint orthodox chapel of St. George crowns the hill, which is the highest point in the city. Energetic visitors can walk to the top on a well-trod footpath, and the less adventurous can take a short taxi ride. Or take the teleferik (funicular railway), which is a two-minute train ride through a hillside tunnel leading to the top of Lykavittos. The funicular runs every 30 minutes 9 am-2:30 am (though hours can vary wildly from the set times) and departs at the corner of Aristippou and Ploutarchou streets in Kolonaki (tickets 7 euros round- trip).

In addition to the chapel, the Orizontes Lykavittou complex resides on the hill and consists of a restaurant, bar and outdoor cafe. The Lykavittos Theatre, overlooking the city, is used for open-air concerts and other performances during the summer. Information on the funicular and the Orizontes complex is available by calling 210-722-7065. http://www.orizonteslycabettus.gr. The hill is in the center of the city, Kolonaki, Athens.

Lysikrates Monument Epimenidi Street Noted for its six Corinthian columns and marble dome, this monument was built to house the prize awarded to the winners of a drama Athens, Greece competition in 334 BC. Later the monument was incorporated into the http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/2/gh251.jsp? library of a Capuchin monastery, where it was known as the Lantern of obj_id=891 Demosthenes. Lord Byron once stayed at the monastery and is said to have written part of Childe Harold while sitting between the monument's columns. Epimenidi Street (at Vyronos Street, just east of the Acropolis), Plaka, Athens. http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/2/gh251.jsp?obj_id=891.

Odeon of Herod Atticus Dionysiou Areopagitou Street This amphitheater, which is on the south slope of the Acropolis and can be viewed from above, was built next to the Theater of Dionysus by the Athens, Greece Roman ruler Herod Atticus in AD 161. Regular tours aren't permitted, Phone: 210-324-1807 but the site hosts performances during the Athens and Epidaurus http://www.greekfestival.gr Festival (http://www.greekfestival.gr). The seats in the amphitheater are marble, and the stage is built from archaic stone formations. As you take your seat, the lighted Acropolis stands behind you. Tickets can be purchased online (http://tickets.greekfestival.gr or https://www.viva.gr), from the main festival box office at 39 Panepistimiou in the city center or at the Public and Papasotiriou book stores. Box office Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-3 pm. Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Athens. Phone 210-324-1807. http://www.greekfestival.gr.

Panathinaiko Stadium Vassilissis Konstantinou and Agras This all-marble stadium was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. It was constructed on the site of the stone original, which was built Athens, Greece 116 35 in 330 BC. Daily 8 am-5 pm November-February, 8 am-7 pm March- http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr October. 5 euros adults. Vassilissis Konstantinou and Agras (across from the National Garden), Athens. http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr.

Philopappou Hill Dionysiou Aeropagitou Also known as the Hill of the Muses, this pinnacle offers wonderful views over Athens and the Saronic Gulf on a clear day. It's most beautiful in Athens, Greece spring when daffodils and poppies are in full bloom. A monument to the philanthropic Roman Philopappus is on the summit. Dionysiou Aeropagitou (directly across from the Acropolis), Athens.

Pnyx the west side of Philopappou Hill One of the city's major heritage sites and the so-called birthplace of democracy. It's a semicircular terrace where ancient Athenians first met Athens, Greece in democratic assembly, in 594 BC; it could accommodate 10,000 people. the west side of Philopappou Hill, Athens.

Presidential Palace Irodou Attikou Street When Greece was ruled by a monarchy, this was the Royal Palace. Now it's used by the president of the Greek Republic to host dignitaries. No Athens, Greece tours. Irodou Attikou Street, Athens.

Roman Forum Just east of the Ancient Agora The Roman Forum excavations can be seen best from Polignotou Street. On the northeast corner is the Tower of the Winds, built in the Athens, Greece first century BC, which served as a sundial, water clock and weather Phone: 210-321-6690 vane. Daily 8 am-3 pm. 2 euros. Just east of the Ancient Agora, Athens. http://odysseus.culture.gr Phone 210-321-6690. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

Syntagma Square Athens, Greece The center of the city, this is the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional garb, guard the monument to the unknown soldier, which stands in the forecourt of the Greek Parliament. The changing-of- the-guard ceremony takes place every hour on the hour. It sounds sedate, until you witness the choreographed high kicks, all executed by soldiers in short, pleated skirts and clogs with pom-poms. In the metro station just beneath Syntagma Square is an exhibition of archaeological finds that were unearthed during the construction of two of the city's metro lines. Note: Being in front of the parliament, the square is also the focal point for political protest marches, and is best avoided when these are in progress, as they sometimes culminate in violence and the use of tear gas to disperse the crowds.

Temple of Olympian Zeus Vasilissis Olgas Aveune The ruins of this temple lie just behind Hadrian's Arch to the east of the Acropolis. It was once one of the largest temples in Ancient Greece. The Athens, Greece construction of this huge marble building began in 515 BC and continued for Phone: 210-922-6330 almost seven centuries. It was eventually completed under the Roman emperor http://odysseus.culture.gr Hadrian in AD 132. Its perimeter included a total of 104 Corinthian columns, with additional columns inside the building that housed a gargantuan gold-and-ivory statue of Zeus. After the temple's destruction by invaders in the fourth century AD, the marble was removed from the ruins and used as construction material in newer buildings. Now, only some of the temple's columns remain. Their immense height is a testimony to the dimensions of this sanctuary. Daily 8 am-7:30 pm. 2 euros. Vasilissis Olgas Aveune (entrance on Olgas), Plaka, Athens. Phone 210- 922-6330. http://odysseus.culture.gr. Theater of Dionysus Dionysiou Areopagitou Street The oldest Greek theater, built in the fifth century BC, is on the south slope of the Acropolis. It's the first archaeological site you'll see as you Athens, Greece walk up Dionysiou Areopagitou Street from Hadrian's Arch. The plays of Phone: 210-322-4625 Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed http://odysseus.culture.gr there, which makes it the birthplace of drama. The theater held some 17,000 spectators. No guided tours, but a book in English about the theater's history is available for about 9 euros. Daily 8 am-8 pm. 2 euros. Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Athens. Phone 210-322-4625. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

Acropolis Museum 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou St. This dramatic space, designed by Bernard Tschumi, lies at the base of the Acropolis, next to the Acropolis metro station. A rooftop room invites Athens, Greece 117 42 contemplation of the temple. Glass floors show a glimpse of an Phone: 210-900-0900 archaeological excavation below. Greeks hope one day to display the http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr Parthenon sculptures (also known as the Elgin Marbles, now in the British Museum in London) at this museum. It displays antiquities from the Acropolis, including three of the original sculptures from the Parthenon's pediment and sculptures of humans and animals dating to the sixth century BC that were previously displayed in the old Acropolis Museum which this replaced. There's also a light and airy inexpensive cafe-restaurant with striking views onto the Parthenon. November- March Monday-Thursday 9 am-5 pm, Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-8 pm; April-October Monday 8 am-4 pm, Tuesday- Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-8 pm, Friday 8 am-10 pm. 5 euros-10 euros adults. 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou St., Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-900-0900. http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr.

Benaki Museum 1 Koumbari St. Stunningly beautiful, this museum displays ancient and modern Greek Athens, Greece art, as well as Islamic, Coptic and Byzantine treasures. The Hellenistic gold jewelry and Byzantine shrines are not to be missed. Also displays Phone: 210-367-1000 memorabilia from the War of Independence (1821-31), when the http://www.benaki.gr Greeks won their independence after 400 years of Turkish rule. Wednesday and Friday 9 am-5 pm, Thursday and Saturday 9 am- midnight, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. 7 euros. 1 Koumbari St. (at Vassilissis Sofias Avenue), Athens. Phone 210-367-1000. http://www.benaki.gr.

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art 22 Agion Asomaton This museum, an offshoot of the main Benaki Museum, occupies a neoclassical building overlooking Kerameikos. Inside, four large rooms Athens, Greece display ceramics, glassware, metalwork, woodcarvings and textiles Phone: 210-325-1311 originating mainly from Egypt, Iran and Turkey. Do not miss the carved http://www.benaki.gr doors from eighth-century Mesopotamia, the 10th-century gold belt from Samarra (now Iraq) and a 14th-century astrolabe. Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 7 euros. 22 Agion Asomaton (at Dipilou), Psiri, Athens. Phone 210-325-1311. http://www.benaki.gr.

Byzantine and Christian Museum 22 Vassilissis Sofias Ave. The most important collection of icons and Byzantine art in Greece, Athens, Greece housed in the grounds of a Florentine-style villa. Pieces in an underground exhibition space trace the development of Byzantium from Phone: 210-213-9507 early Christianity to the fall of Constantinople. Daily 8 am-8 pm. 4 euros. http://www.byzantinemuseum.gr 22 Vassilissis Sofias Ave., Athens. Phone 210-213-9507. http://www.byzantinemuseum.gr.

Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art 4 Neofytou Douka Relics of 5,000 years of Cycladic history housed there. Greece's Cycladic Islands have an ancient history of their own—separate from Athens, Greece 106 74 that of Crete or mainland Greece. Cycladic art consists mostly of small, Phone: 210-722-8321 highly detailed works in white marble, gold and silver. Its angular marble http://www.cycladic.gr female figurines have inspired many artists of later times. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Thursday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. 7 euros. 4 Neofytou Douka (Vasilissis Sofias Avenue), Athens. Phone 210-722-8321. http://www.cycladic.gr.

Greek Children's Art Museum 9 Kodrou St. All of the works displayed in this unusual art museum are by children Athens, Greece 10558 younger than 14 years old. Most are on popular subjects such as "My Village," but the museum also has other remarkable exhibits such as Phone: 210-331-2621 children's drawings of the 1946 civil war. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 http://www.childrensartmuseum.gr pm, Sunday 11 am-2 pm. 3 euros adults. 9 Kodrou St. (extension of Voulis Street), Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-331-2621. http://www.childrensartmuseum.gr.

Greek Folk Art Museum 17 Kydathineon Large collection of 18th- and 19th-century Greek embroidery, jewelry, paintings, ceramics, copper pots and domestic articles. Most impressive Athens, Greece are the colorful costumes representing the traditions of each of the Phone: 210-324-5957 country's regions. Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-3 pm. 2 euros. 17 http://www.melt.gr Kydathineon, Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-324-5957. http://www.melt.gr.

Hellenic Children's Museum Vasileos Georgiou B 19 Children will appreciate a visit to this old house where they'll find hands- on displays that encourage them to explore, experiment and create. The Athens, Greece 10675 experienced staff will engage the youngsters in several activities (in Phone: 210-331-2995 Greek only), such as cooking, acting and painting. Wednesday 10 am-8 http://www.hcm.gr pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-3 pm. Free. Vasileos Georgiou B 19, Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-331-2995. http://www.hcm.gr.

Kerameikos Museum 148 Ermou St. Within the Kerameikos Cemetery, the museum displays artifacts from excavations of the cemetery, including some fine stelae (gravestones). Athens, Greece Also among the exhibits are excellent samples of ancient Greek pottery. Phone: 210-346-3552 Daily 8 am-5 pm May-October, Tuesday-Sunday 8 am-3 pm November- http://odysseus.culture.gr April. Entrance to archaeological site and museum 2 euros. 148 Ermou St., Thissio, Athens. Phone 210-346-3552. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

Museum of the Ancient Agora of Athens 24 Andrianou St., Monastiraki Housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos (originally an arcade of Athens, Greece shops), this great museum contains some 65,000 artifacts from the classical period that have been found in the area, including domestic, Phone: 210-321-0185 everyday objects. The proto-geometrical and geometrical vases are http://odysseus.culture.gr particularly beautiful. Also of interest are potsherds, or pieces of broken pottery, that were used as voting tokens when an ostracism was held. Citizens would scratch the name of a person they wished to expel. The person receiving the highest number of votes was sent into exile for 10 years. Daily 8 am-3 pm. 4 euros. 24 Andrianou St., Monastiraki (second entrance at the west end of Polygnotou Street in Plaka), Athens. Phone 210-321-0185. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

National Archaeological Museum 44 Patision St. One of the world's finest and largest collections of ancient Greek art, this is a must-see for visitors, and you are well-advised to return several Athens, Greece 106 82 times to see it all. The museum is huge—plan at least a half-day initially Phone: 210-214-4800 in this elegant 19th-century building. The best-known exhibits include http://www.namuseum.gr early Cycladic female figurines; the joyful frescoes from Akrotiri (island of Santorini) from the 16th century BC that show boxing boys and an idyllic spring landscape with flowers and swallows; the famous so-called "Gold Mask of Agamemnon" (ca. 1580 BC), which was actually made long before the king's lifetime; the fascinating kouroi (statues of youths and maidens) from the seventh to fifth century BC; the impressive classical sculpture of either Poseidon or Zeus (460 BC); and the most famous, the race horse Artemision and his child jockey (140 BC). Monday 1-8 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4 pm. 15 euros adults. 44 Patision St., Athens. Phone 210-214-4800. http://www.namuseum.gr.

National Historical and Ethnological Museum 13 Stadiou Ave. Collection of personal effects and traditional costumes of famous Athens, Greece Greeks, including the helmet and sword said to have been used by Lord Byron at Messolonghi. The museum occupies all of Greece's old Phone: 210-323-7617 parliament building. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-2 pm. 3 euros. 13 Stadiou http://odysseus.culture.gr Ave., Athens. Phone 210-323-7617. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

National Museum of Contemporary Art 17-19 Vas. Georgiou B Although the museum began operating at the FIX brewery on Syngrou Athens, Greece 106 75 Avenue in 2016, it has temporarily suspended the exhibition program, in order to complete construction of all facilities including the media Phone: 210-924-2111 lounge, a conference room, the library, the archives, the roof terrace http://www.emst.gr and the museum cafe. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 5 euros. 17-19 Vas. Georgiou B (at Rigillis Street), Athens. Phone 210-924-2111. http://www.emst.gr.

War Museum of Greece Vassilissis Sofias Aveune This museum explores the history of Greek warfare over thousands of years. Exhibits range from prehistoric stone axes and colorful uniforms Athens, Greece to fighter planes and heavy artillery. Most interesting are the Phone: 210-725-2975 memorabilia from the Greek War of Independence (1821-31), World http://www.warmuseum.gr War I and World War II. Daily 9 am-5 pm November-March, 9 am-7 pm April-October. 4 euros adults. Vassilissis Sofias Aveune (at Rizari Street), Athens. Phone 210-725-2975. http://www.warmuseum.gr.

Agia Eirini Athens, Greece Around the church of Agia Eirini and midway between Monastiraki and Syntagma lies this newly popular neighborhood. Awarded restaurants and sophisticated cocktail bars will entertain locals and tourists. All-day street food in the small streets of this area has changed the meaning of "fast food".

Gazi Athens, Greece The former industrial district west of Monastiraki has evolved into the city's trendiest gentrified neighborhood. Small, alternative nightclubs and impressively styled restaurants have taken up residence inside old warehouses and factories. This area took its name from the huge, former gas complex that has been transformed into the Technopolis cultural center.

Kifissia Athens, Greece The most exclusive residential area of Athens is in the northern suburb of Kifissia, easily accessible by the metro. The district's historic landmark hotels, excellent French restaurants and exclusive boutiques are the best way to spend money in style.

Metaxourgeio Athens, Greece This area's beautiful neoclassical houses and spacious old warehouses now bustle with bars, restaurants and art galleries. Because of its proximity to the western side of the Acropolis, Metaxourgeio rooftop views are simply beautiful. This is a creative, up-and-coming district.

Monastiraki Athens, Greece The narrow streets between Monastiraki Square, the ancient Agora and Assomaton Square are the site of the Monastiraki Flea Market. Overlooking Monastiraki Square is the Tzisdarakis Mosque, featuring a splendid pottery collection. A short stroll away, the Central Market on Athinas Street offers an overwhelming variety of seafood, meat and vegetables.

Piraeus Athens, Greece The industrial town of Piraeus has served as the port of Athens since the fifth century BC. Occupying a peninsula 6 mi/10 km southwest of the http://www.olp.gr city center, it has become part of Athens' growing metropolitan area. Dominated by one of the largest harbors in the Mediterranean, Piraeus retains the charm of a bygone era in the southern part of the peninsula, featuring two natural harbors (Mikrolimano and Passalimani), a yacht marina and a coastal promenade lined with restaurants and cafes (the classic 1960 film Never on Sunday was set in this atmospheric port). Piraeus can be reached easily from Athens. The Metro Line 1 connects Monastiraki and Omonia Square in central Athens with the passenger- ship section of the harbor. http://www.olp.gr.

Plaka Athens, Greece 105 56 Nestled below the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, this is the oldest quarter in Athens. Cars are banned from most of the area because of its narrow and winding streets—but beware of the motorcycles and scooters, which are everywhere. The Plaka is packed with ancient monuments, Byzantine churches, stately 19th-century houses, several museums, tavernas, cafes and a dozen small hotels. There is even a tiny Cycladic village consisting of picturesque whitewashed houses, known as the Anafiotika settlement.

Psiri Athens, Greece Many Athenians head each evening to Psiri, just northwest of Monastiraki. In its narrow streets, you can find numerous traditional tavernas, fashionable bars and art galleries, but it has now been overtaken by Agia Eirini in the "cool" stakes, and some areas have become decidedly seedy.

The Athens Riviera The Apollo Coast is one of the city's major entertainment districts. It Athens, Greece starts in Piraeus and ends at Cape Sounion on the southern tip of the Attica peninsula. The residential suburbs of Palio Faliro, Glyfada and Vouliagmeni are major leisure destinations along the coastal road. They feature a choice of beaches, yacht marinas, restaurants and nightclubs. Glyfada has excellent shopping and a golf course. Vouliagmeni is renowned for its luxurious resort hotels, sophisticated restaurants and sailing clubs.

Thissio Athens, Greece A stone's throw from the Agora is Thissio, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Athens. Beautifully restored mansions now house restaurants, hot nightspots and cozy cafes. Linger over a cocktail and gaze at the Acropolis—without the tourism barrage of Plaka.

National Garden and Zappeion Park Main entrance on Amalias Avenue, The National Garden is a sprawling, peaceful stretch of green amid the noise and traffic of central Athens. You'll find towering palm trees, next to the Parliament peacocks, a playground and a small zoo. Daily dawn to dusk. Main Athens, Greece entrance on Amalias Avenue, next to the Parliament, Athens.

Hellenic Cosmos 254 Pireos St. A choice of virtual-reality presentations will take you back to ancient Greece. You can visit the majestic Zeus Temple in Olympia or a Athens, Greece Byzantine palace. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-3 pm June-September; Phone: 212-254-0000 Monday-Thursday 9 am-1:30 pm, Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 11 am-4 www.hellenic-cosmos.gr pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm October-May. 9 euros-12 euros. 254 Pireos St., Tavros, Athens. Phone 212-254-0000. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr.

Metro Stations Athens, Greece A treasure trove of antiquities was unearthed under Athens during the expansion of the subway system. Many of the artifacts are displayed in three consecutive metro stations: Acropolis, Syntagma and Evangelismos. The archaeological displays are freely accessible daily 5 am-midnight.

Recreation

Just because Athens is a sprawling, urban city doesn't mean there's nowhere to get in a little recreation. If you're nautically inclined, you can charter yachts easily, and the sea also allows for diving excursions. Within easy reach by car, taxi, cable car (tram) or bus are numerous beaches in the southern suburbs of Palio Faliro, Alimos, Elliniko, Glyfada, Voula, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. Some of them are free, such as the ones in Palio Faliro and Glyfada, and others operate as beach clubs and charge admission fees. The drive to the seaside resort of Varkiza, 45 minutes southwest of downtown, offers panoramic views. Beaches

The Athenian seaside, long overshadowed by island glory, is gaining popularity. A few public beaches offer free sand and surf around the clock. Private resorts pack on the amenities, such as umbrellas, chairs, restrooms, changing cabins, showers, playgrounds, snack bars and lifeguards. Some even offer extreme watersports. Astir Beach Club Vouliagmeni 40 Apollonos St. This most cosmopolitan of all Athens beach clubs is integrated into the Athens, Greece 166 71 luxurious Astir Palace Resort complex in Vouliagmeni. Beach chairs and umbrellas are provided at the beach together with lockers, changing Phone: 210-890-1619 cabins, showers, a snack bar and an ancient temple of Apollo. The https://www.astir.gr/beach Beach Club offers a full range of motorized and nonmotorized watersports such as windsurfing, waterskiing, parachuting and sailing. Daily 8 am-9 pm April-October, daily 9 am-5 pm November-March. Admission varies and is more on weekends. 40 Apollonos St., Vouliagmeni, Athens. Phone 210-890-1619. https://www.astir.gr/beach.

Beach Club Varkiza Varkizas Coast, Athinon-Souniou This large stretch of sand is popular with Athenians. Sometimes it seems that the whole city has dropped by for a swim at this fine-sand Road beach backed by carefully tended gardens. Facilities such as cabanas, Athens, Greece 16672 changing cabins, showers, snack bars, umbrellas and beach chairs may Phone: 210-897-2414 be used by bathers. Motorized and nonmotorized watersports are https://www.varkizaresort.gr available nearby. Daily from 9 am. Monday-Friday 5 euros, Saturday and Sunday 6 euros. Varkizas Coast, Athinon-Souniou Road, Varkiza, Athens. Phone 210-897-2414. https://www.varkizaresort.gr.

EOT Beach Club Vouliagmeni Possidonos Avenue The classic summer hangout. This half-moon-shaped sand beach is one Athens, Greece of the most scenic and classiest bathing spots in the Athens area. Bathers can use the beach club's umbrellas and beach chairs (included Phone: 210-896-0697 with the entrance fee), changing cabins and shower facilities and eat at http://vouliagmeni-akti.gr the taverna or snack bar. In addition to watersports, the club offers tennis, basketball and volleyball courts, as well as a waterslide and a children's playground. Daily 8:30 am-8:30 pm May-September, daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm October-April. 4 euros. Possidonos Avenue, Vouliagmeni, Athens. Phone 210-896-0697. http://vouliagmeni-akti.gr.

Grand Beach Lagonissi Athens-Sounio Road The five-star Grand Resort Lagonissi has developed one of its fine Athens, Greece 190 10 sandy beaches into the most luxurious beach club in the Athens area. Standard amenities, such as beach chairs and umbrellas, are Phone: 229-107-6000 complemented by several restaurants and bars (including one in the http://www.lagonissiresort.gr water). A full range of water activities, as well as beach volleyball, soccer, basketball and tennis courts, is provided. DJs entertain bathers on summer weekends, and there is a variety of concerts, beach parties and other happenings scheduled throughout the season. Daily 8 am-8 pm. 12 euros Monday-Friday, 25 euros Saturday and Sunday. Athens- Sounio Road (25 mi/40 km south of Athens), Athens. Phone 229-107- 6000. http://www.lagonissiresort.gr.

Greece is Europe's top sailing destination, thanks to its myriad islands and pleasant Mediterranean climate. There are hundreds of charter companies renting out boats, generally on a weekly basis (from Saturday to Saturday). You can charter a vessel "skippered" (with a professional captain) or "bareboat" (meaning that you are alone, but at least two of your crew must be qualified or experienced sailors). Kiriakoulis 7 Alimou Ave. This is one of the largest and most highly regarded Greek charter Athens, Greece 174 55 companies. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. 7 Alimou Ave. (Alimos), Athens. Phone 210-988-6187. Phone: 210-988-6187 https://www.kiriacoulis.com. https://www.kiriacoulis.com

Sailing Athens Athens, Greece The company offers luxurious half- or full-day catamaran cruises in the https://www.sailingathens.com Athens Riviera including guiding around the coast. https://www.sailingathens.com.

Glyfada Golf Gardens Terma Pronois If you like to do your walking on the links, head to the Glyfada Golf Athens, Greece 166 75 Gardens, just 20 minutes from downtown. The 18-hole, par-72 championship course is the pride of the Attica region (in terms of golf, Phone: 210-898-2138 that is). Terma Pronois, Glyfada, Athens. Phone 210-898-2138. http://www.glyfadagolfgardens.gr http://www.glyfadagolfgardens.gr.

The National Garden is a good spot in downtown Athens for a stroll on level ground or an early-morning jog. Not as green, but still a pleasant place to hike, is Philopappou Hill, although it can occasionally get dodgy. There are some good uphill trails there, and it's hard to get lost—the Acropolis is always behind you. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center 364 Syngrou Ave. This multifunctional center is situated in Kallithea and covers an area of Athens, Greece 21 hectares. This one of the largest public parks in Athens, an architectural landmark that was donated to the Greek state by the Phone: 210-364-3725 Stavros Niarchos Foundation. It is home to the National Library and the https://www.snfcc.org Greek National Opera and hosts regular events both indoors and outdoors. 364 Syngrou Ave., Athens. Phone 210-364-3725. https://www.snfcc.org.

Trekking Hellas 10 Saripolou Those who are serious about hiking tours should contact Trekking Hellas. The company organizes one-day hiking tours on nearby Mount Athens, Greece 106 82 Parnitha, as well as longer trips out of town. 10 Saripolou, Athens. Phone: 210-331-0323 Phone 210-331-0323. http://www.trekking.gr. http://www.trekking.gr

Aqua Divers Club Palea Fokea, Anavissos, Attica Located just south of the city along the Apollo Coast, the Aqua Divers Club offers lessons and scuba excursions to dozens of nearby dive Athens, Greece 190 13 spots. Palea Fokea, Anavissos, Attica, Athens. Phone 229-105-3461. Phone: 229-105-3461 http://www.aquadiversclub.gr. http://www.aquadiversclub.gr

Nightlife

Start with dinner and then hit the clubs. Or begin with a couple of drinks and then make your way to one of the many bouzouktsidika (clubs specializing in music played on the bouzouki, an instrument similar to the mandolin). Either way, the city is sure to keep you entertained until the early hours.

Most bars open around 10 pm, but the action doesn't start until after midnight and goes on until 3 or 4 am. Some clubs and bars stay open until 6 am. In summer, it seems as if everyone is out on the town, making the most of the carefree days. Suburbs such as Glyfada and Kifissia are especially popular and provide a cool respite from the city.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Booze 57 Kolokotroni, Syntagma In a neoclassical building from 1850, Booze combines a ground floor cafe and an upstairs club, pulling an arty but unpretentious clientele. Athens, Greece 105 60 While the cafe has two bars, a long wooden table with benches, wall Phone: 215-405-3733 projectors and chill-out music, the club is dark and moody (with a DJ on http://www.boozecooperativa.com weekends). Booze also hosts art exhibitions, theater performances and video art projects. Daily 11 am-late. 57 Kolokotroni, Syntagma, Athens. Phone 215-405-3733. http://www.boozecooperativa.com. Brettos 41 Kidathineon This cozy old-fashioned drinking den lies in the heart of Plaka. Popular with locals and visitors alike, it has a wooden bar and stools, and one Athens, Greece 105 58 entire wall lined with shelves and beautifully colored back-lit bottles. Phone: 210-323-2110 Claiming to be the oldest distillery in Athens, it dates from 1909 and https://brettosplaka.com serves more than 36 varieties of its own fruit-flavored liquors, making a perfect nightcap. Daily 10 am-2 am. 41 Kidathineon, Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-323-2110. https://brettosplaka.com.

Drunk Sinatra Athens, Greece This is one of the most popular bars in the city center, featuring a New York bar sign and a cozy atmosphere resembling old-time cinema. Phone: 210-331-3733 Sophisticated cocktails and vintage music have made this a true hot https://www.facebook.com/pages/Drunk- spot. Phone 210-331-3733. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Drunk- Sinatra/323464961138971 Sinatra/323464961138971.

Galaxy 46 Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki Expect wonderful albeit costly drinks, fabulous views of the city skyline and the Acropolis, and chic patrons at the rooftop bar of the Athens Athens, Greece 115 28 Hilton. Monday-Thursday 5 pm-3 am, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-4 am, Phone: 210-728-1402 Sunday 3 pm-3 am. Most major credit cards. 46 Vasilissis Sofias, https://www.hiltonathens.gr/galaxy Kolonaki (in the Athens Hilton), Athens. Phone 210-728-1402. https://www.hiltonathens.gr/galaxy.

Noel Athens, Greece No matter the time of year, Christmas is always timely and celebrated in 211-215-9534 this bar located just before Agia Eirini square. Decoration is definitely the Phone: most noteworthy attribute of this place, but the excellent brunch and https://noelbar.gr cocktails should also not be missed. Be sure to make a reservation. Monday-Friday 10 am-2 am, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-4 am. Phone 211-215-9534. https://noelbar.gr.

Seven Jokers 7 Voulis Renowned for excellent cocktails, Seven Jokers is popular with local Athens, Greece office workers, who go there to unwind over early evening drinks. It's small and cozy, and there's a long wooden bar and shelves lined with Phone: 210-321-9225 backlit bottles, but what really makes it special is the music—soothing jazz early on, revving up to classic rock and some suitably bizarre dance tunes as a party mood sets in. By 3 am, the place buzzes with after- hours drinkers. Daily 9 pm-4 am. 7 Voulis (Syntagma), Athens. Phone 210-321-9225.

TAF Normanou 5 In a narrow side street close to Monastiraki metro station, TAF (The Art Athens, Greece 105 55 Foundation) occupies a complex of tumble-down neoclassical buildings dating from 1870 and centered on an internal courtyard garden. While Phone: 210-323-8757 the outbuildings are used as galleries to display ever-changing http://theartfoundation.metamatic.gr exhibitions of contemporary and experimental art, the garden hosts one of the loveliest bars in Athens, with mellow music and candlelight pulling the crowds after sunset. It even has a canopy roof and outdoor heaters so it can stay open through winter. Monday-Saturday noon-9 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm. Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Athens. Phone 210-323- 8757. http://theartfoundation.metamatic.gr.

Island Km 27 Athens-Souniou Avenue With a whitewashed wooden deck lined with potted olive trees and Athens, Greece 166 72 stunning views across the bay, Island has been acknowledged as Phone: 210-965-3563 Athens' most glamorous seaside summer club since its founding in 1994. Flickering candles and ethnic-ambient music set the scene at http://www.islandclubrestaurant.gr night, while the bartenders shake cocktails and the adjoining restaurant serves creative Mediterranean cuisine and sushi. It's popular with Greek celebrities. Daily 9 pm-5 am May-September. Km 27 Athens-Souniou Avenue (on the coastal road to Sounion, 17 miles from the city center), Athens. Phone 210-965-3563. http://www.islandclubrestaurant.gr.

Nipiagogio Elasidon and Kleanthous, Gazi Occupying a neoclassical mansion on a pedestrian sidewalk in trendy Gazi, this building was once used as a kindergarten (as its name in Athens, Greece Greek implies). Today it's one of Athens' liveliest small clubs, with funky Phone: 210-345-8534 electronic music filling the small dance floor. Through summer, cocktails https://www.facebook.com/nipiagogio.gaz are served in a charming, low-lit courtyard garden out back, a lovely chill-out place. Friday 10 pm-4 am, Saturday 10 pm-5 am. Elasidon and Kleanthous, Gazi, Athens. Phone 210-345-8534. https://www.facebook.com/nipiagogio.gaz.

Vinilio 33 Posidonos Ave. Longing for a retro party? Then head for this old-school disco Athens, Greece specializing in dance hits from the 1970s-80s in the southern suburb of Glyfada, just a stone's throw from the seashore. DJs still spin vinyl. Phone: 210-968-1056 Friday and Saturday from 11 pm until sunrise. 33 Posidonos Ave. (Hotel http://www.emmantina.gr/el/Disco_Vinilio- Emmantina), Glyfada, Athens. Phone 210-968-1056. 277.htm http://www.emmantina.gr/el/Disco_Vinilio-277.htm.

Clubs offering live music (local singers and popular Greek music) are located primarily on Iera Odos, Syngrou and Poseidonos avenues. You can hear everything ranging from traditional folk music to current Greek pop songs. If the blues appeal to you, don't miss out on hearing some rebetika, a wildly popular mix of underworld ballads and intricate traditional orchestrations, developed in the 1920s hash dens of Piraeus. The mandolinlike bouzouki often makes an appearance in various types of music. Note that many clubs abandon the city for locations closer to the sea during the summer.

Diogenis Studio 259 Syngrou Ave. Once the most prominent bouzoukia, this place has been fully renovated and hosts regularly various artists. Expect to pay high prices depending Athens, Greece on the show. 259 Syngrou Ave., Athens. Phone 210-894-1620. Phone: 210-894-1620 http://www.diogenis.com. http://www.diogenis.com

Fuzz 209 Pireos This large, indoor venue stages various live performances from alternative bands from all over the globe, as well as offering regular DJ Athens, Greece nights. 209 Pireos, Gazi, Athens. Phone 210-345-0817. Phone: 210-345-0817 http://www.fuzzclub.gr. http://www.fuzzclub.gr

Gagarin 205 Live Music Space 205 Liossion St., Patissia Gagarin 205 features live acts. Each week there are performances by both old legends and unknown alternative artists. This former cinema is Athens, Greece 104 45 also used once a week for art-movie screenings. The nearest metro Phone: 213-024-8358 station is Platia Attikis on Line 1. 205 Liossion St., Patissia, Athens. http://www.gagarin205.gr Phone 213-024-8358. http://www.gagarin205.gr.

Gazarte 32-34 Voutadon Gazarte hosts an eclectic range of live concerts—the Roma brass band Athens, Greece 11854 Fanfare Ciocarlia from Romania has played there, as has nu-jazz band Phone: 210-346-0347 Club des Belugas from Germany. Expect to pay 5 euros-45 euros (depending on the concert and whether you stand at the bar or reserve http://www.gazarte.gr a table), with the first drink included in the cover price. 32-34 Voutadon, Gazi, Athens. Phone 210-346-0347. http://www.gazarte.gr.

Half Note Jazz Club 17 Trivonianou St. Plays host to some of the best jazz and blues bands from around the world. Draws crowds willing to mellow out or dance till dawn. Good Athens, Greece 166 36 service, food and drinks. Daily from 10:30 pm September-June. Cover Phone: 210-921-3310 charge 10 euros-20 euros (standing at bar) or 15 euros-35 euros http://www.halfnote.gr (seated at a table) and includes first drink. 17 Trivonianou St., Mets, Athens. Phone 210-921-3310. http://www.halfnote.gr.

Stoa Athanaton 19 Sofokleous St., Kentriki Agora Authentic rebetika music in the "Hall of the Immortals" in the arcades of the historic (although slightly seedy) Central Market on Athinas Street. Athens, Greece Expect an old-fashioned atmosphere attracting Greeks of all ages, with Phone: 210-321-4362 impromptu dancing and flower-throwing. You can also get traditional Greek food there. Friday and Saturday 3:30-7:30 pm and 11:30 pm-5 am, Sunday 3:30-7:30 pm; closed in summer. 19 Sofokleous St., Kentriki Agora (at Athinas Street), Athens. Phone 210-321-4362.

Performing Arts

Dance

Ballet performances at the Athens Concert Hall are popular October-June. Shows often sell out, so get tickets in advance. Vassilissis Sofias Avenue & Kokkali. Dora Stratou Dance Company Athens, Greece For something unique to Greece, throughout summer the Dora Stratou Dance Company performs traditional songs and dances from various Phone: 210-324-4395 regions of the country at an open-air theater on Philopappou. Tickets http://www.grdance.org can be bought at the theater before performances. Early June to late September. Phone 210-324-4395. http://www.grdance.org.

Going to an open-air cinema in Athens is a treat not to be missed. Athenians delight in watching a movie under the stars on a warm summer evening. The movie is only a small part of the overall experience. The folding chairs, metal tables and grassy surroundings make it seem as if you're relaxing in a friend's backyard. There are also cinemas on rooftops with views of the Acropolis. Films are shown in their original languages accompanied by Greek subtitles. Cine Paris (in Plaka), Cine Psyri (in Psiri), Dexameni (in Kolonaki) and Thission (in Thissio) are great options. The Athens State Orchestra stages symphony performances at the Athens Concert Hall October-June (http://www.koa.gr). Concerts often sell out, so get tickets in advance.

A special musical treat is Byzantine chanting, which dates from the first Christian centuries and is best experienced by going to a Sunday Mass. Chants start at 7 am and go on until 11 am. The choir of Agias Irini on Eolou performs the classic monophonic chants, while in Agios Dionysos on Skoufa polyphonic chants are sung. Both are experiences not to be missed.

Ethniki Lyriki Skini Athens, Greece The Greek National Opera Company stages opera performances. Productions take place at Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. http://www.nationalopera.gr http://www.nationalopera.gr.

Athens' main box office (for both the summer festival and other concerts) is at 39 Panepistimiou in the city center, open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm and Saturday 9 am-3 pm. Tickets can also be purchased online at https://www.viva.gr. Athenians move outdoors in the summer for dining and entertainment. During the summer months, the outdoor Herod Atticus Theater (hosting classical music and opera) and Lykavittos Theater (hosting pop and rock entertainers) take over the cultural calendar with the staging of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival. http://www.greekfestival.gr.

Early September through late October, from Pnyx Hill, audiences are treated to a popular show casting dramatic light and visual effects on the Acropolis, accompanied by music and narration. English-language performances are given daily. For information and tickets, contact the Athens Festival Office at 210-928-2900.

Megaron Vassilissis Sofias Avenue and The Athens Concert Hall, known locally as Megaron, hosts concerts by Kokkali Street various groups, including frequent performances by the Athens State Orchestra and La Camerata string orchestra as well as ballet Athens, Greece 11521 performances. Art exhibits sometimes accompany concert series. Phone: 210-728-2333 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue and Kokkali Street, Athens. Phone 210-728- http://www.megaron.gr 2333. http://www.megaron.gr.

Onassis Cultural Centre 107 Syngrou Ave. The Onassis Cultural Centre (funded by Greece's best-known shipping Athens, Greece 117 45 family) occupies a slick glass-and-marble building on Syngrou Avenue. It has an 880-seat amphitheater, a 220-seat auditorium and an exhibition Phone: 210-900-5800 hall. It hosts theater, dance and music performances, with an emphasis https://www.onassis.org/initiatives/onassis- on supporting contemporary Greek artists and international stegi collaborations. The top-floor Hytra restaurant has a rooftop terrace affording spectacular city views. Daily. 107 Syngrou Ave., Athens. Phone 210-900-5800. https://www.onassis.org/initiatives/onassis-stegi.

Spectator Sports

Athens has some of the best sports facilities in Europe. Its modern Olympic Stadium and Peace and Friendship Stadium are used frequently for major European and international events.

The top spectator sport is football (soccer), with the major clubs being Panathinaikos (of Athens) and Olympiakos (of Piraeus). Attending a match is not for the faint-hearted: Expect a rowdy crowd jumping on the seats and uttering outrageously obscene insults.

Second to football comes basketball: The Panathinaikos and Olympiakos football clubs also fund rival basketball squads under the same names.

Basketball

Olympiakos B.C. Ethnarhou Makariou, Neo Faliro Olympiakos B.C. play at Peace and Friendship Stadium. Ethnarhou Athens, Greece Makariou, Neo Faliro, Athens. Phone 210-489-3000. http://www.olympiacosbc.gr. Phone: 210-489-3000 http://www.olympiacosbc.gr

Panathinaikos B.C. 168 Kifissias Ave. Panathinaikos B.C. play at OAKA stadium, which was built for the 2004 Athens, Greece Olympics. 168 Kifissias Ave., Athens. Phone 210-610-7160. http://www.paobc.gr. Phone: 210-610-7160 http://www.paobc.gr

Olympiakos F.C. Alexandras Square Olympiakos F.C. play at Karaiskakis Stadium in Piraeus. Alexandras Athens, Greece Square, Athens. Phone 210-414-3000. http://www.olympiacos.org. Phone: 210-414-3000 http://www.olympiacos.org

Panathinaikos F.C. Alexandras Avenue The Panathinaikos soccer club plays regular-season home games at Athens, Greece Apostolos Nikolaidis Stadium mid-August through late May. Alexandras Avenue, Athens. Phone 210-870-9000. http://www.pao.gr. Phone: 210-870-9000 http://www.pao.gr

Shopping

It's nearly impossible to stroll through the old city without being tempted to buy something. Shops are so tiny that many vendors display their colorful wares outside and along the narrow streets. Much of what you'll see are touristy trinkets made elsewhere, but you'll also find plenty of shops selling gold jewelry with traditional Greek designs, hand-woven tablecloths and unusual pottery. Shops also sell everything from leather goods and designer labels to religious icons and fine antiques. T-shirt shops are everywhere.

Be aware that vendors in the old city and at the markets are aggressive—once you get inside a shop, it's often difficult to get out without leaving some money behind. But don't forget to bargain in the souvenir shops and the flea market. Museum gift shops are also a good place to look for high-quality souvenirs that are often reproductions of museum pieces.

Don't miss the Monastiraki Flea Market, particularly if you're in town on a Sunday. For high-quality goods, head to Ermou Street off Syntagma Square or to the streets around Kolonaki Square.

Shopping Hours: Most shops have hours as follows: Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 9 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 9 am-2:30 pm and 5-8:30 pm. All department stores and supermarkets and many larger shops stay open through the day, and some stay open until 6 pm on Saturday. Many shops in the Plaka area are open daily 9 am-9 pm or even later.

Antique Stores

Antiques shops can be found in the Kolonaki area, at the Monastiraki Flea Market and near Syntagma Square. Antiqua 2 Amalias Ave. This shop has a selection of antiques such as small furniture and Athens, Greece decorative items. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-6:30 pm. 2 Amalias Ave. (off Phone: 210-323-2220 Syntagma Square), Athens. Phone 210-323-2220. http://www.antiqua.gr http://www.antiqua.gr.

Kilim Hali 9 Valaritou St. Hand-woven rugs from Egypt, China, the Caucasus, Afghanistan, Athens, Greece 18543 Turkey and Iran. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-3:30 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. 9 Valaritou St., Kolonaki, Phone: 210-363-7056 Athens. Phone 210-363-7056. http://www.kilimhali.com. http://www.kilimhali.com Bibliophiles should stroll along Solonos and Ippokratous streets, between Syntagma Square and Omonia Square, in Exarhia, which is home to the (predominantly Greek-language) book trade.

Compendium 8 Alikarnassou Friendly English owner, English-language books, newspapers, magazines, travel guides and maps. Daily 9 am-3 pm. 8 Alikarnassou, Athens, Greece 10444 Athens. Phone 210-383-2139. http://www.compendium.gr. Phone: 210-383-2139 http://www.compendium.gr

Laiki Markets Athens, Greece The name means "people's" or "farmers" market. Each district of Athens plays host to a laiki market at least once a week, offering a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables as well as household goods. One of the liveliest markets can be found each Saturday morning on Kallidromiou Street in Exarhia, a 20-minute walk from Syntagma Square.

Monastiraki Flea Market The main shopping areas are Visitors flock to this market at the edge of the Plaka to sample everything from the modern to the ancient, all in an area of less than 1 Pandrossou and Ifaistou streets sq mi/2.6 sq km. The best time to visit the flea market is Sunday near the Acropolis morning. Visitors will find everything from military uniforms to Mickey Athens, Greece Mouse clocks to mock Roman helmets in the narrow alleyways and streets. Bargaining is quite acceptable in the individual stalls, so don't settle on the asked-for price. Daily 9 am-9 pm. The main shopping areas are Pandrossou and Ifaistou streets near the Acropolis, Athens.

Attica 9 Panepistimiou, Syntagma Square Close to Syntagma Square, the poshest shopping center in the city Athens, Greece 10671 extends over eight floors, selling the most fashionable international brands, especially clothing, accessories, cosmetics and homewares. It's Phone: 211-180-2600 worth a visit just to look at the most beautifully decorated shopping http://www.atticadps.gr windows of Greece. Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm. 9 Panepistimiou, Syntagma Square, Athens. Phone 211-180-2600. http://www.atticadps.gr.

Ermou Street Athens, Greece This pedestrian-only street off Syntagma Square shouldn't be missed if shopping is among your travel objectives. It has always been Athens' busiest shopping street and is packed with midrange clothing, accessory and shoe shops.

Kolonaki Athens, Greece This fashionable neighborhood at the foot of Lykavittos Hill is the chicest place to shop in Athens. It's teeming with boutiques—Gucci, Lanvin, Bulgari, Lancel, Vuitton. When you need a break from shopping, there are plenty of trendy coffee shops and restaurants around Kolonaki Square.

The Golden Hall Athens, Greece This upscale shopping mall is just minutes away from The Mall, and https://goldenhall.gr accommodates more high-end brands than the former, such as Brooks Brothers, Max and Co., Salvatore Ferragamo and iStorm. It accommodates more than 130 stores, 14 restaurants and a cafe. https://goldenhall.gr.

The Mall Andrea Papandreou 35 Those who like shopping in malls should check out The Mall in the Athens, Greece northern suburb of Maroussi, served by Neratziotissa metro station, with 200 shops, more than a dozen restaurants and a 15-screen movie http://www.themallathens.gr theater. Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm. Andrea Papandreou 35, Athens. http://www.themallathens.gr.

Greeks have always been good at making jewelry, from ancient to modern times. Consider taking a walk along Voukourestiou Street (between Stadiou and Akadimias streets) to have a look at the many goldsmiths' wares. Boutiques selling clothing by Greek designers are also worth checking out.

Apivita Shop & Polis Spa Solonos 6 Apivita creates natural beauty and skin-care products based on Athens, Greece 10673 essential oils and plant extracts (now available beyond Greece, in specialty stores in major cities such as New York, San Francisco, Phone: 210-364-0560 London and Tokyo). In this Kolonaki store, consultants can provide https://www.apivita.com professional advice about which products are right for you, from the deliciously scented Express face masks, to the anticellulite aromatherapy serums, and Propline products including shower gels and body milks containing bee propolis. It's also possible to book a massage or a facial at the adjoining Polis Spa. Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Solonos 6, Kolonaki, Athens. Phone 210-364- 0560. https://www.apivita.com.

Bulgari 8 Voukourestiou St. This prestigious Italian fashion designer of Greek origin has a number of shops in Greece. He presents his gold jewelry at this elegant Athens Athens, Greece 10564 boutique. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Phone: 210-371-1011 Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. 8 Voukourestiou St., Athens. Phone http://www.bulgari.com 210-371-1011. http://www.bulgari.com.

Elena Votsi 7 Xanthou Best known for her chunky necklaces and rings that combine semiprecious stones with 18-carat gold, Votsi also redesigned the Athens, Greece medals for the 2004 Olympics. She worked for Gucci for several years Phone: 210-360-0936 before opening her own store in Athens. Wednesday and Saturday 10 https://www.facebook.com/ElenaVotsiOfficial am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. 7 Xanthou, Kolonaki, Athens. Phone 210-360-0936. https://www.facebook.com/ElenaVotsiOfficial.

Ilias Lalaounis 6 Panepistimiou St. This designer's jewelry is inspired by the ancient Greeks, Minoans and Athens, Greece 10671 Byzantines. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. 6 Panepistimiou St. (at Phone: 210-361-1371 Voukourestiou Street), Athens. Phone 210-361-1371. http://www.iliaslalaounis.eu http://www.iliaslalaounis.eu.

Kombologadiko Amerikis 9, Kolonaki Greek-style rosary beads, known as komboloys, are supposed to aid Athens, Greece 10672 concentration and reduce stress. The Greeks believe that the beads have metaphysical properties and can bring people in direct connection Phone: 212-700-0500 with God. The science attached to them is called kombologia. The http://www.kombologadiko.gr monks on Mount Athos were the first to produce rosaries in Greece, making theirs with wool knots. The beads can be made with a variety of materials—amber, semiprecious stones, coral, wood and bones. They come in all prices, too, ranging from a mere 7 euros to thousands, if you opt for the most precious red amber. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-9 pm. Amerikis 9, Kolonaki (the most central of the four locations in and around Athens), Athens. Phone 212-700-0500. http://www.kombologadiko.gr.

Korres Ermou 4 The pilot store of the renowned line of Greek natural beauty products, Athens, Greece 10563 which cost much less in Athens than anywhere else in the world. The first Korres product was an aromatic herbal syrup with honey and Phone: 21-321-0054 aniseed, which George Korres' grandfather used in his hometown on http://www.korres.com the island of Naxos. Now the extensive line ranges from nicely packaged cleansing, moisturizing and anti-aging products to shower gels, body milks, shampoos and nutraceuticals—perfect gifts to take home. The pharmacy is located at Ivikou 8, Pangrati (phone 210-722-2774). Korres Pharmacy Monday and Wednesday 8:30 am-2:30 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 8:30 am-2 pm and 5-8 pm. The Korres store Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm. Ermou 4, Athens. Phone 21-321-0054. http://www.korres.com.

Loukia Atelier Kanari 24 One of Greece's most famous fashion-designer labels. Athens' glamorous elite adores Loukia's creative, extravagant, flamboyant and Athens, Greece 10675 romantic style. The lace tops and silky skirts don't come cheap, and the Phone: 210-362-7334 embroidered wedding dresses cost a fortune, but they will be hard to http://www.loukia.gr find outside of Greece. The haute-couture store (by appointment only) is upstairs, while on the ground floor Loukia Pret a Porter also sells embroidered and sequined lace pieces in addition to white shirts, dresses and skirts. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm; Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Kanari 24, Athens. Phone 210-362-7334. http://www.loukia.gr.

Melissinos 16 Tzireon St. Dating from 1927 (though the original store was at another location, in Athens, Greece 11742 Plaka), Melissinos was founded by the present owner's grandfather. Crafting more than 30 different styles of humble handmade leather Phone: 210-321-9247 sandals, just as the ancients would have worn them, it has won the http://www.melissinos-art.com hearts of many illustrious visitors, including Sophia Loren, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, the Beatles and Jeremy Irons. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 16 Tzireon St., Psiri, Athens. Phone 210-321-9247. http://www.melissinos- art.com.

Orsalia Parthenis 20 Dimokritou St. The young Athenian designer Orsalia Parthenis took over the boutiques Athens, Greece 106 73 of her father Dimitris and is known for her wearable, sexy collections. Orsalia loves wrap dresses, tunics and high-waisted shorts with a little Phone: 210-363-3158 retro touch inspired by female heroines of film noir. She also has a more http://www.orsalia-parthenis.gr classical line with casual-chic T-shirts, ribbed vests and pants made exclusively of natural fabrics in subdued monochrome colors. Monday and Wednesday 10 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am- 8:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. 20 Dimokritou St. (at Tsakalof Street), Kolonaki, Athens. Phone 210-363-3158. http://www.orsalia-parthenis.gr.

Zolotas 10 Panepistimiou St. Operating since 1895, this upscale jewelry store offers beautiful gold creations covering a wide price range. The store also has gold-plated Athens, Greece 10671 silver copies of museum pieces, as well as silver objects and pens. Phone: 210-360-1272 Monday-Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday http://www.zolotas.gr and Friday 10 am-8:30 pm. 10 Panepistimiou St. (at Voukourestiou Street), Athens. Phone 210-360-1272. http://www.zolotas.gr.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Kaisariani Monastery. Located about 5 mi/8 km southeast of central Athens by road, this monastery is set in the wooded foothills of Mount Hymettos (you'll need a road map). Although built in the 11th century, the monastery occupies a site that has been sacred since antiquity because it marks the source of the River Ilissos. In ancient times, the water was thought to cure sterility. Locals still fill their water jugs at the monastery's fountain. Monastery buildings include the church, refectory, mill, bakery and bathhouse. The lush planted area also affords a good view of Athens. Entry 2 euros. Tuesday- Sunday 8 am-3 pm (call to confirm opening hours). Alimou-Katehaki Avenue, Kaisariani. Phone 210-723-6619. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

To Sounion. About 45 mi/70 km from central Athens. You will pass countless coves and splendid views, as well as some rugged Greek terrain, on your way to the Aegean, Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon (entrance 4 euros). The views of the sea and the coast are breathtaking from the Doric columns of the fifth-century-BC temple. Next to the Poseidon Temple are the remains of a smaller temple dedicated to Athena Sounias. A few yards/meters away, the land drops 200 ft/60 m to the sea below. For a special treat, stay to watch the sunset. From Athens, you can drive along the coastal road of the Saronic Gulf, past the beaches of Glyfada, Vouliagmeni, Varkiza and Voula or, better still, take the Cape Sounion bus tour.

To Epidaurus. About 100 mi/160 km from Athens, Epidaurus has a fantastic ancient outdoor theater, which is used by the Athens and Epidaurus Festival for summertime ballet and symphonic festivals. Its acoustics are so fine that, while standing at the top step of the theater, you can hear a pin drop on the stage far below. The nearby museum features Roman portrait statues, medical inscriptions and surgical instruments. The site is open daily 8 am-5 pm January-March, 8 am-8 pm April- October, 8 am-3 pm in November and December. You can take the toll road out of Athens toward Corinth, or the more difficult but pleasant drive along the coastal road of the Saronic Gulf. A few hundred yards/meters past the Corinth Canal, a large sign marks the turnoff to Epidaurus.

Around the Saronic Islands. South of Athens' seaport in Piraeus, the islands of Aegina, Poros and Hydra offer peaceful fishing villages, Byzantine churches, ancient temples and endless seascapes. Hydraiki Naval Company offers a one-day cruise itinerary, including a brief stop at each island, with lunch served on the boat. Cruises depart daily from Piraeus (Gate E1) at 8 am and return around 7:20 pm.

Most companies offer tours in several languages and accept payment in euros and U.S. dollars. For information regarding tours, contact the Greek National Tourist Organization.

Hop in Sightseeing 19 Sygrou Ave. Tours include a guided morning visit to the Acropolis; an afternoon trip to Cape Sounion; a one-day tour of Delphi and Arahova; a helicopter Athens, Greece 117 43 sightseeing tour of Athens; and one-day cruises to the Saronic islands of Phone: 210-428-5500 Aegina, Poros and Hydra. Prices vary. 19 Sygrou Ave., Athens. Phone http://www.hopin.com 210-428-5500. http://www.hopin.com.

Key Tours 26 Athanassiou Diakou St. Tours include Athens by Night, including a taverna and floor show; and tours of Delphi, Epidaurus and Cape Sounion. It also arranges an early- Athens, Greece 117 43 evening Greek cooking lesson with dinner in Athens. Most offered daily. Phone: 210-923-3166 Call Monday-Saturday 7 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 7 am-3 pm and 5:30-8:30 http://www.keytours.gr pm. 26 Athanassiou Diakou St., Athens. Phone 210-923-3166. http://www.keytours.gr.

Trekking Hellas This English-speaking tour operator deals specifically with outdoor 10 Saripolou recreation. New excursions are planned every season, with typical offers including weekend canoeing, kayaking and rafting trips. Monday-Friday Athens, Greece 106 82 9:30 am-5:30 pm. 10 Saripolou, Athens. Phone 210-331-0323. Phone: 210-331-0323 http://www.trekking.gr. http://www.trekking.gr These two itineraries are designed to help you get the most out of your time in Athens. PLAN A

The Acropolis

If this is your first visit to Athens, be sure to start with the Acropolis. From Piraeus, take Metro Line 1 to Monastiraki. Walk up through Plaka to the Acropolis rock to check out the ancient ruins and the nearby Acropolis Museum. Then follow the "archaeological promenade" through Thissio to return to Monastiraki. Stop for an informal outdoor lunch at either Mana's Kouzina-Kouzina in Monastiraki or Sholarhio in Plaka. Spend the remainder of the afternoon either exploring the bustling central market or browsing the clothes shops on Ermou, where you will also find the charming Byzantine church of Kapnikarea.

PLAN B

Museums, Views and Mediterranean Cuisine

If you've already been to Athens and visited the Acropolis, an alternative itinerary is suggested. From Piraeus take Metro Line 1 to Monastiraki and then change trains for Syntagma. From there, either hike or take the funicular to the peak of Lykavittos Hill, for a panoramic city view and a break for coffee at Orizontes. Descend to Kolonaki and visit the Benaki Museum for a succinct and fascinating introduction to Greek art. For lunch, choose from modern Greek fare at Tzitzikas kai Mermigas or chic, multiethnic cuisine at Altamira, both within walking distance of the museum. Spend the afternoon browsing the boutiques and antiques stores in Kolonaki, or strolling in the National Gardens.

DINING

Dining Overview

Whether dining at a neighborhood taverna or an elegant restaurant, Greeks take their time over food. The cuisine is delightfully uncomplicated and quite different from what's served in Greek or Cypriot restaurants abroad. Much of the cooking relies on simple seasonings of fresh meat and vegetables.

For breakfast, Greeks rarely eat more than bread or bakery-fresh tiropites (flaky cheese-filled pastries). Lunch is served in the late afternoon, generally between 2 and 4 pm, and dinner around 10 or 11 pm. To stave off hunger between meals, they enjoy snacking on souvlaki (garlic-marinated lamb kebabs) or tiropites bought from a street vendor.

It's common to make a lunch of mezedes, or hors d'oeuvres. Typical dishes include fried meatballs, squash balls, octopus, shrimp, squid, cheese, olives, stuffed grape leaves, tzatziki (garlicky yogurt and cucumbers), eggplant dip, small sausages and giant beans. You can find mezedes at an ouzeri (a bar serving ouzo) or at a mezedopolio (a bar serving locally produced wine or beer).

If you're having a full meal, make sure it includes one of the following local specialties: moussaka (lamb and eggplant in bechamel sauce), kebabs, pastitsio (lamb or goat meat with macaroni and tomatoes), stifado (braised beef with onions), paithakia (grilled lamb or goat chops), melitzanosalata (eggplant salad), revithia soupa (chickpea soup), spanakopita (spinach pie), chtapodi (octopus salad) or tiropita (cheese pie). Don't leave Greece without trying baklava and other pastries made from phyllo dough, nuts and honey. Strong Greek coffee (similar to Turkish coffee—but don't tell that to the Greeks) is usually quite good. Ask for it sketo (black), metrio (semisweet) or glyko (sweet). The traditional alcoholic drinks of Greece are quite distinctive and pack a strong punch. Ouzo, the popular aperitif, is anise- flavored and turns cloudy when mixed with water, as is often done. Metaxa, a brandy, is graded in quality and priced according to stars, with three being the cheapest. Retsina is an acquired taste (imagine a pine tree marinated in wine). Mavrodaphne is extremely sweet—it's more like a dessert wine.

There has been a renaissance of the age-old Greek wine-making tradition. The introduction of new vines and the use of better techniques have resulted in some excellent reds and whites on par with the world's best wines.

When selecting a restaurant, know that estiatorion are the more expensive conventional restaurants; tavernas are informal, family-run establishments; psistaria offer mostly grilled meats; and psarotaverna specialize in seafood dishes. Many restaurants close during the summer months or move to another location, usually by the sea.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15 euros-30 euros; $$$ = 31 euros-50 euros; and $$$$ = more than 50 euros.

Athiri 15 Plataion A true find for affordable modern Greek dining in trendy Gazi, Athiri Athens, Greece 10435 occupies a neoclassical building with a leafy courtyard garden. The menu is short, and everything is prepared from locally sourced fresh Phone: 210-346-2983 ingredients—look for the risotto with cuttlefish and spinach, and duck leg http://www.athirirestaurant.gr with fig sauce and apple salad. The service is professional yet friendly. Tuesday-Saturday 7 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-5 pm. $$$. 15 Plataion, Gazi, Athens. Phone 210-346-2983. http://www.athirirestaurant.gr.

Daphne's Restaurant 4 Lysikratous St. You'll find frescoed walls, somewhat kitsch decor, strolling musicians Athens, Greece and terrace dining in a beautifully restored 1830s mansion with a charming walled courtyard. Celebrities who have flocked there to Phone: 210-322-7971 sample the international and traditional Greek cuisine have included http://www.daphnesrestaurant.gr Hillary Clinton and the Queen of Spain. Dishes range from meatballs in ouzo-flavored tomato sauce to more daring combinations, such as fried prawns in a crust of crushed almonds. Daily 6 am-midnight. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 4 Lysikratous St. (across from Hadrian's Arch), Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-322-7971. http://www.daphnesrestaurant.gr.

Eleas Gi 4 Olympionikon This elegant restaurant, decorated with small, potted olive trees, serves Athens, Greece 145 63 a huge variety of regional Greek dishes made from fresh, seasonal products and prepared with olive oil. The menu changes seasonally and Phone: 210-620-6433 features a selection of appetizers, meat dishes and mouthwatering http://www.eleasgi.gr desserts, all in the best Greek tradition. A tree-shaded terrace overlooks the city. Daily from 7 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 4 Olympionikon (Politia Square), Kifissia, Athens. Phone 210-620-6433. http://www.eleasgi.gr.

Hytra 107-109 Syngrou Ave. In a stylish and subdued modern setting, the Michelin-starred young chef Nikos Karathanos celebrates Greek haute cuisine. He transforms Athens, Greece 11745 wild herbs, fresh vegetables and other humble ingredients into some Phone: 210-331-6767 exceptional dishes. Diners are advised to opt for the multicourse https://www.facebook.com/hytra degustation menu, a hard-to-beat value at 62 euros (or 72 euros including two glasses of wine). On the menu, imaginative treatments of classic Greek flavors include smoked ham foam with carpaccio of sea bass, pork with orange-scented celeriac puree, and among the desserts, panna cotta flavored with cardamom and Greek coffee foam. Daily 8 pm-3 am. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 107-109 Syngrou Ave. (Onassis Cultural Centre), Athens. Phone 210-331-6767. https://www.facebook.com/hytra.

Katsourbos 2 Amynda St. This exquisite restaurant serves authentic Cretan cuisine in a refined dining room with an old tile floor and mismatched wooden tables and Athens, Greece chairs. All the dishes are made from fresh produce, much of which is Phone: 210-722-2167 shipped over directly from Crete. Be sure to try the kolokithokeftedes http://www.katsourbos.gr (zucchini fritters), and if it's the right time of year, the stamnagathi (wild greens particular to the island). The service is pleasantly discreet but friendly. You'll find it just a 10-minute walk south of Kolonaki, making it a good choice for lunch after a morning of museums. In summer it also has outdoor tables on the square across the street. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. 2 Amynda St., Pangrati, Athens. Phone 210-722-2167. http://www.katsourbos.gr.

Mana's Kouzina-Kouzina Aiolou 27-A, Monastiraki The name translates to "mother's kitchen," and it's an appropriate title: The food is slow-cooked, traditional and delicious. The open-kitchen Athens, Greece 10551 restaurant overlooks the recently revitalized Athenian hotspot of St. Phone: 210-325-2335 Irene Square, with outdoor seating providing views of the Acropolis. A http://www.manaskouzinakouzina.gr seasonal a la carte menu features dishes such as bifteki thalasinon (traditional seafood patties from Patmos Island), and rosto naxos, a pulled pork dish with orange sauce from the island of Naxos. Daily noon- 11 pm. $-$$. Aiolou 27-A, Monastiraki, Athens. Phone 210-325-2335. http://www.manaskouzinakouzina.gr.

Melilotos Kalamiotou 19, Kapnikareas A fine choice for lunch in the city center, close to Syntagma Square, Melilotos is popular with local office workers. It has a menu that changes Athens, Greece daily—expect colorful creative dishes such as baked salmon with lentil Phone: 210-322-2458 and tomato salad, or chicken stuffed with figs and served with aromatic http://www.melilotos.gr rice. Monday-Friday noon-6 pm. Kalamiotou 19, Kapnikareas, Athens. Phone 210-322-2458. http://www.melilotos.gr.

Milos 46 Vassilissis Sophias Ave. Following the success of the Milos restaurants in New York and Athens, Greece 115 28 Montreal, the Athens branch opened at the Hilton to great acclaim (the chain has since expanded to Las Vegas and Miami). Diners select their Phone: 210-724-4400 fish at a catch-of-the-day counter and usually ask that it be grilled or http://milos.ca/restaurants/athens baked within a salt crust. Other seafood specialties include lobster salad, squid stuffed with four types of Greek cheese, and fried eel with capers and vine sprouts. Lamb chops and sirloin steaks are also on the menu. Next to the open-plan kitchen is the chef's table for up to 10 people. For these guests, the chefs prepare cooked-to-order dishes— even if they are not on the menu. In addition, a contingent of housewives cooks regional Greek specialties. Some dishes, such as wild goat with rare vegetables, and rooster with fresh pasta, must be ordered a day ahead. The comprehensive wine list includes both Greek and international selections. Monday-Saturday 12:30 pm-midnight. Sunday 12:30-6 pm. $$$$. 46 Vassilissis Sophias Ave. (at the Hilton), Athens. Phone 210-724-4400. http://milos.ca/restaurants/athens.

Orizontes Lykavittou Aristipou 1 One of the city's most dramatic vistas can be found at Orizontes, which sits atop Lykavittos, the tallest hill in Athens. This restaurant and cafe Athens, Greece has great views of the Acropolis and the seashores and offers a modern Phone: 210-722-7065 take on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Aristipou 1, http://www.orizonteslycabettus.gr Athens. Phone 210-722-7065. http://www.orizonteslycabettus.gr.

Sholarhio 14 Tripodon St. This humble establishment doesn't even have a menu: Just pick mezedes from the server's tray. Wash down batter-fried eggplant, Athens, Greece flaming sausages and marinated peppers with a bottle of Mythos beer Phone: 210-324-7605 or jug of local wine. Daily 11 am-12:30 am. $-$$. Most major credit http://www.scholarhio.gr cards. 14 Tripodon St., Plaka, Athens. Phone 210-324-7605. http://www.scholarhio.gr.

Sigalas-Bairaktaris 2 Monastiraki Square This Athenian institution, in business for more than 100 years, serves basic Greek staples, notably souvlaki and kebab, but people go as much Athens, Greece for the buzz as for the food. Check the dishes in the cabinet and enjoy Phone: 210-321-3036 seeing the waiters bustle around. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. https://www.bairaktaris.gr $. No credit cards. 2 Monastiraki Square, Athens. Phone 210-321-3036. https://www.bairaktaris.gr.

Strofi 25 Robertou Galli St. Known primarily for its superb view of the Acropolis, this place is well worth a stop. It's a decent choice for carefully-presented traditional Athens, Greece Greek cooking if you have only one night in the city. Be aware that you Phone: 210-921-4130 have to climb two flights of stairs to reach the stunning roof terrace. http://www.strofi.gr Daily noon-1 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 25 Robertou Galli St., Athens. Phone 210-921-4130. http://www.strofi.gr.

To Kouti 23 Adrianou St. Located next to the Agora, you'll find this romantic hangout attracts the Athens, Greece 105 55 intellectual elite who appreciate its modern wood-and-slate interior. To Kouti, named for its "little box" shape, offers an unobstructed view of the Phone: 210-321-3229 Acropolis from the second floor. Try to go when the moon is rising. The menu features colorful, creative dishes generously seasoned with fresh herbs and spices. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 23 Adrianou St., Monastiraki, Athens. Phone 210-321-3229.

Tzitzikas kai Mermigas 12-14 Mitropoleos, Syntagma With an interior decorated to look like an old-fashioned grocery store, Athens, Greece the "Grasshopper and the Ant" serves Greek dishes with a modern twist. Upon arrival, you'll be given tsipoura (a potent spirit), olives and the Phone: 210-324-7607 menu. Memorable dishes include the sublime chicken with mastic, and http://www.tzitzikasmermigas.gr/syntagma the chocolate-covered profiteroles. It's hugely popular with locals and visitors alike, so you may have to wait for a table. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. 12-14 Mitropoleos, Syntagma, Athens. Phone 210-324-7607. http://www.tzitzikasmermigas.gr/syntagma.

Vlassis 15 Meandrou St. This popular taverna is truly a family affair. Regulars have been dining there for more than a decade on dishes such as squid stewed with Athens, Greece spinach and cabbage or eggplant with mild peppers. The down-home Phone: 210-725-6335 desserts are great, too, from strained yogurt with quince to freshly made http://www.vlassisrestaurant.gr halvah. Picking your favorite dishes couldn't be easier—just chose from the big wooden tray the waiter will put under your nose. It's hard to get a table, so book early. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-5 pm. $$. 15 Meandrou St., Athens. Phone 210-725-6335. http://www.vlassisrestaurant.gr.

Asian

Kiku 12 Dimokritou St. Reputedly the best Japanese restaurant in town, Kiku serves mouthwatering sushi and sashimi as well as tempura and sukiyaki. Athens, Greece 10675 Relocates to the island of Mykonos in summer. Monday-Saturday 7 pm- Phone: 210-364-7033 1 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 12 Dimokritou St., Kolonaki, http://www.kikurestaurants.com Athens. Phone 210-364-7033. http://www.kikurestaurants.com.

Nolan 31 Voulis Owned by one of the most renowned chefs in Greece, Sotiris Kontizas, this bistro has become the talk of the town, blending traditional Athens, Greece Japanese dishes with the Greek cooking culture into a lovely fusion. 31 Phone: 210-324-3545 Voulis, Athens. Phone 210-324-3545. http://www.nolanrestaurant.gr. http://www.nolanrestaurant.gr

L'Abreuvoir 51 Xenokratous St. One of the first French restaurants in Athens, L'Abreuvoir is still a favorite among the sophisticated crowd. With a location and decor Athens, Greece 106 76 matching the elegance of its guests, the restaurant boasts fine French Phone: 210-722-9106 cuisine. Specializing in steaks and chicken dishes, L'Abreuvoir also http://www.abreuvoir.gr offers a wide range of wines from around the world. The duck fillet with cherry sauce and the sea bass with fennel are good choices. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 51 Xenokratous St., Kolonaki, Athens. Phone 210-722-9106. http://www.abreuvoir.gr.

Spondi 5 Pyrronos The winner of numerous national and international awards (including Athens, Greece 11636 two Michelin stars), Spondi's French chef Arnaud Bignon serves refined and creative dishes prepared according to French principles with a dash Phone: 210-756-4021 of Greek spice. The six-course Discovery Menu is a gourmet treat at http://www.spondi.gr 128 euros (includes coffee). The desserts are some of the best in Athens, and the wine list is excellent as well. The menu changes twice a year, summer and winter. The setting is a carefully restored neoclassical building, with dining rooms on three levels—think exposed brickwork, crystal chandeliers, black leather sofas and walls decorated with large, colorful canvases by contemporary Greek artists. In summer, diners can opt for the charming courtyard garden shaded with bougainvillea. Daily 7-11:45 pm. $$$$. 5 Pyrronos, Pangrati, Athens. Phone 210-756-4021. http://www.spondi.gr.

Altamira 36 Tsakalof St. Multiethnic restaurant featuring a huge variety of Chinese, Arabian, Indian and Mexican specialties, ranging from tandoori chicken to crispy Athens, Greece 106 73 duck and fajitas. Excellent desserts. Altamira is located inside a Phone: 210-361-4695 renovated old mansion behind the Agios Dionysios Church of Kolonaki. https://www.facebook.com/AltamiraRestaurants Monday-Friday 2 pm-1:30 am, Saturday 1:30 pm-2 am. $$$. 36 Tsakalof St., Kolonaki, Athens. Phone 210-361-4695. https://www.facebook.com/AltamiraRestaurants.

Funky Gourmet 13 Paramithias and Salaminos Set in a single-story, neoclassical building with a glass conservatory- Athens, Greece 104 35 style dining room up top, Funky Gourmet has a minimalist interior Phone: 210-524-2727 decorated in black, white and gray; the work of contemporary artists hangs on the walls. The chef-owners, Georgianna Hiliadiki and Nikos http://www.funkygourmet.com Roussos, offer refined, beautifully presented cuisine bringing together Greece, Italy and France in such dishes as chicken Poussin with feta cheese panacotta and tomato confit. It offers a highly recommended Big Degustation Menu at 130 euros (185 euros with wine pairing) and a Small Degustation Menu at 90 euros (135 euros with wine pairing). Tuesday-Saturday 7 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 13 Paramithias and Salaminos, Gazi, Athens. Phone 210-524-2727. http://www.funkygourmet.com.

Salumaio di Atene 3 Panagitsas St. Exclusive Italian trattoria serving not only traditional recipes such as Athens, Greece 145 62 lasagna with spinach and ricotta, and risotto with truffles and foie gras, but also such contemporary dishes as salmon with vanilla-lime sauce. Phone: 210-623-3934 Only the best ingredients are used. Wonderful choice of salads, too. http://www.salumaio.gr Delicious desserts, especially the creme brulee. Some excellent Italian wines are offered as well. Monday-Saturday 10 am-12:30 am, Sunday 12:30-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 3 Panagitsas St., Kifissia, Athens. Phone 210-623-3934. http://www.salumaio.gr.

Nargile 50 Harilaou Trikoupi Go there for sublime Lebanese cuisine, including fragrant classics such as hummus, barbecue meats, tabbouleh and knafeh bil jibme (semolina Athens, Greece 145 62 with sweet cheese and rose water syrup). Accompany your meal with Phone: 210-808-3333 Lebanese arak (a potent spirit) or wine, and try smoking from a narghile http://www.nargile.gr (a water pipe). It also stages belly dancing on Friday and Saturday evenings. Tuesday-Thursday 7:30-1 am, Friday and Saturday 8:30 am- 1:30 pm. $$$. 50 Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia, Athens. Phone 210-808- 3333. http://www.nargile.gr.

Breakfast & Brunch

Estrella Pavlou Mela 48, Thessaloniki Situated in the city center, just a few steps from Syntagma, this is the place to enjoy breakfast and brunch. Don't miss the eggs—whatever Athens, Greece way you may prefer them—and the special bougatsan, something Phone: 231-027-2045 between traditional bougatsa made with phyllo pastry and croissant. Do https://estrella.gr expect to wait at least 30-45 minutes for a table—it is definitely worth it. Reservations not accepted. Pavlou Mela 48, Thessaloniki, Athens. Phone 231-027-2045. https://estrella.gr.

Kitchen Lab Athens, Greece Akis Petretzikis, winner of the Master Chef Greece, has become a valued brand in the country. His personal restaurant is by far the most https://kitchenlabcafe.com popular cooking spot in Greece, and his two brunch spots feature some of his best recipes with handmade ingredients. https://kitchenlabcafe.com.

New Taste 16 Filellinon Greeks love their food, but breakfast is generally limited to coffee and Athens, Greece 10557 maybe a pie. However, New Hotel has gained a fine reputation for doing Phone: 210-327-3000 the best Sunday brunch in town. Served in the light and airy ground floor restaurant, New Taste, it's popular with hotel residents and Athenians http://www.yeshotels.gr/hotel/new- alike, and includes fortifying goodies such as eggs Benedict, freshly hotel baked croissants and pastries, and frothy cappuccino. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. 16 Filellinon (Syntagma), Athens. Phone 210-327- 3000. http://www.yeshotels.gr/hotel/new-hotel.

New York Sandwiches 23 Nikis Syntagma Complete with a New York diner feel, New York Sandwiches is the go-to place in Athens for an authentic American brunch. It serves a selection Athens, Greece of fresh pancakes, bagels, omelettes and egg dishes, and the sandwich Phone: 210-321-6000 menu features classics such as Philly cheesesteaks and chicken http://www.nys.gr parmesan subs. Daily 11 am-8 pm. Reservations recommended for brunch. 23 Nikis Syntagma, Athens. Phone 210-321-6000. http://www.nys.gr.

SECURITY

Etiquette

Although many laud Greece as the birthplace of democracy, the country's heritage as a place of trade and business is also rich. Visitors from North America will find most of the country's practices and customs to be familiar.

Appointments—Set your appointments at least a couple weeks in advance, if possible. Punctuality is expected, but not strictly adhered to. As a guest, you should be on time, although your Greek counterpart may be less so. Reconfirm your appointments a couple days beforehand.

Personal Introductions—A handshake and a brief nod are the typical greeting. First meetings are formal, using the last name of the new acquaintance.

Negotiating—Emphasis is placed on the value of senior statesmen and advisers. Negotiating styles tend to be similar to those in other parts of Europe and North America, if a bit slower than in northern Europe. Personal feelings and subjective criteria can be as important as objective facts to a Greek businessperson.

Business Entertaining—Greeks are as likely to gather over a cup of coffee as they are a meal. If eating is on the agenda, expect it to be a communal affair with large dishes that are shared by everyone at the table. The host, whoever issued the invitation, divides the bill equally or simply pays it. However destitute, he or she may become quite offended if guests proffer euros. Wine is common at lunch and dinner. Draining your glass dry is considered gauche. Leave your glass more than half-full to indicate you've had enough.

Body Language—Avoid using head gestures or interpreting them. Traditionally, the Greek head gesture for "no" is an upward nod of the head and a raised eyebrow, which looks much like the gesture for "yes" in many other countries. The Greek gesture for yes can be similarly confusing. These days, many in Greece tend to use more standard head gestures, but you can never be sure. Try to get a verbal answer to avoid confusion. Do not use the "OK" gesture with the thumb and index finger forming a circle, as this will be interpreted as an insult. The "thumbs-up" gesture may be used to signal "OK." Cheek kisses are a common greeting and goodbye among acquaintances. Evil Eye—Country superstitions still linger in the capital. Don't coo over an infant or praise anything excessively, as this could draw evil spirits, according to local tradition still observed by older people. Greeks counteract the risk by spitting on the object or (more hygienically) just saying ftou-ftou-ftou. Cobalt charms, usually a flat, staring eye, ward away the bad luck.

Gift Giving—Gifts are appreciated, but avoid gifts that are merely opportunities to expose your company's logo. Flowers or a bottle of wine or spirit are a good gift to take to a home, if invited.

Conversation—Greeks are effusive and their conversation lively. Remember that Greeks are sensitive about Macedonia: Even though the official country's name is Northern Macedonia, they still refer to it as Skopje (after its capital), and use the name Macedonia exclusively for the region of Macedonia in northern Greece. Also know that Greeks have always objected to the succession of occupiers that have at one time or another intruded in Greek affairs.

Visitors may be startled by bold inquiries about their marital status, weight, ethnicity, salary and home value: This is typical talk in Athens, as are lengthy descriptions of physical ailments.

The crime rate in Athens is relatively low. You can walk safely down almost any street, day or night. But take precautions and avoid strolling in the Omonia Square area as well as in districts north and west of the square late at night. If you are unfortunate enough to be riding a trolley or subway at rush hour, make sure your wallet or handbag is secure. Ladies should also avoid holding their handbags with the street-side hand as there have been incidents of bikers snatching them. Such petty theft is on the rise, unfortunately (as are instances of rape and disorderliness on the islands, generally carried out by drunken foreign visitors).

Do avoid the small Platia Vathis northwest of Omonia Place, which is a nightly meeting point for drug dealers. Male singles should avoid touts who invite them into a local bar close to Syntagma Square. The friendly man disappears after a few drinks and leaves the tourist with a hefty bill to pay.

Strikes and demonstrations occasionally choke downtown traffic and can get violent in the Syntgama Square area (in front of the parliament), with protestors throwing stones and molotovs, and the police responding with tear gas and batons. These incidents happen for a few hours and are cleared up shortly afterwards. At these times, the metro stops nearby are shut down. Although animosity toward U.S. foreign policy has run high, visitors from the U.S. haven't usually been harassed. Current hostility is directed more toward the European Union, and the austerity measures it imposed on Greece to protect the euro from collapse.

Exarheia's crumbling buildings and spray painted walls are the complete opposite of postcard perfect classic Athens. Known as the city's edgy alternative district, Exarheia is an authentic Athenian neighborhood that attracts artists, college students and bohemian crowds. It is typically the stage of protests between police and students for various social and economic issues. However, this does not cause a threat to visitors.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Sanitation standards in Athens are generally similar to those in Western Europe. Medical facilities also are acceptable. Tap water is safe to drink, but it's so heavily chlorinated that most travelers prefer bottled water. Stick to prepackaged drinks— but dispose of the plastic bottles properly. (Bottled water and other drinks are so popular that disposing of the containers has become a problem, particularly on the islands.)

Snacks sold by street vendors are generally safe to eat. If you're out and need a restroom, look for either a hotel, restaurant or cafe. The air in Athens can be very polluted and may aggravate existing respiratory ailments. Antihistamines are recommended for those with allergies. Remember to pack a comfortable pair of walking shoes. Sunscreen and a hat are a must May-October. To avoid sunstroke, drink plenty of water.

If you're in need of medical care, your hotel concierge should be able to contact a doctor for you. Hospitals and pharmacies stay open additional hours on a rotating basis (phone 1434 for information about which hospitals and pharmacies are on duty). Call the Tourist Police (phone 171) or ambulance service (phone 166). Otherwise, your hotel reception should be able to supply a recommendation. Most pharmacies post a list in the window with the addresses of the closest pharmacies that are open after-hours.

Visitors with physical limitations will find it difficult to get around Athens. Improvements such as wheelchair ramps have been built on street curbs and at some hotels, but at present, no special information or access maps are available for disabled travelers. Some information is available from the Tourist Police, who speak English (phone 171). Greek-speaking visitors may want to contact the Panhellenic Union of Paraplegic and Physically Disabled, 3-5 Dimitsanis, Moshato, Athens. Phone 210-483-2564. https://www.paspa.gr.

The airport, metro stations and former Olympic venues are user-friendly, but overall, the city rates poorly for disabled access. The city is working to make improvements to sidewalks, taxis, buses, stores, pharmacies, restaurants, bars and clubs for visitors in wheelchairs.

A privately-run website details tours and facilities currently available for wheelchair users. http://www.greecetravel.com/handicapped.

Do dress conservatively when visiting monasteries or churches: No bare arms or legs.

Don't wear swimwear anywhere other than on the beach. The Greeks believe that this is where it belongs.

Do not buy "old" icons—they are usually fakes, and the export of real ones is strictly forbidden and will be punished.

Don't stare at people too much, as many Greeks still believe in the power of the evil eye.

Don't be surprised to see people smoking despite the nationwide smoking ban—Greeks have refused en masse to observe this law.

Don't book "Athens by Night" tours touted by hotels and travel agencies. They are never worth the money.

Do visit the museums at noontime in summer. Most have cool cafes and offer a welcome break from the oppressive heat.

Don't flush paper down the toilets. The Greek plumbing system has narrow drains, and visitors are requested to put waste paper in the plastic bins provided in all WCs. If you fail to do this, you risk blocked drains and flooded restrooms.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Canadian and U.S. citizens need passports but not visas for a stay of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 789,166.

Languages: Greek. Most Greeks speak at least one foreign language, and it's rare to find someone connected with tourism who doesn't speak basic English.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Greek Orthodox).

Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 30, country code; 210,city code;

Currency Exchange

The Greek currency is the euro, in line with many other members of the European Union. The euro is still considered a stable currency, despite its recent and ongoing financial crisis.

ATMs, which tend to offer the most favorable exchange rates, are located throughout Athens. Syntagma Square has the highest concentration of banks (and ATMs) as well as exchange bureaus. All consumer purchase prices include value-added tax (called FPA, the Greek equivalent of VAT), currently 24% on almost all goods and services. This is also true for hotel prices, which include taxes and service charges. There is no hotel tax that is added on top of the quoted price.

Nonresidents of the European Union are eligible for a refund of the FPA on purchases larger than 120 euros in a single store on a single purchase. Fill out a simple form in the store and then get it export-validated at the customs office in the airport. Hundreds of shops in Athens display the "Tax-Free Shopping" sign and participate in the FPA refund.

All restaurant bills include any service charge. Additional tipping is not expected, but customers do sometimes leave up to 10% of the total bill if they feel like rewarding very good service. Tip a concierge or hotel receptionist about 3 euros (or more, depending on services rendered) at checkout. Guides expect at least 2 euros. Tip doormen 1 or 2 euros. Barbers and beauticians expect a 10% tip, and taxi drivers usually keep any small change.

Weather

Athens enjoys relatively mild winters and lovely, temperate autumns and springs. The hot summers, although dry, can be oppressive at their heights. Average temperatures are 89 F/32 C. The meltemi, or summer winds, can help break the heat. Rainfall is heaviest in December and January, when temperatures average 55 F/13 C. The best times to visit are mid-May to mid-June and mid-September to October. The climate is pleasant, and sunshine is plentiful. Dress for men and women is smart casual in summer. To blend in with local residents, women should wear skirts and slacks, and men should wear long pants. It's acceptable for women to wear shorts in the summer but not when visiting churches or monasteries. Women should wear conservative dresses or skirts (no slacks are permitted) and modest blouses (no cleavage, and backs should be covered up to the shoulder blades) when visiting a church.

Typical business attire for men is a suit and tie, though smart trousers and an open-necked shirt are acceptable during the hottest months (June-August). Women should dress smartly; skirts and trousers are acceptable.

Telephone

All numbers throughout the country have 10 digits, including the former city code (210 for Athens). When dialing a phone number from outside Greece, dial your international access code, then Greece's country code (30), followed by the 10-digit number listed. Toll-free numbers may have only three or four digits, though.

Phone booths are becoming increasingly rare, and those that still function require a phone card, which come in a wide range of denominations and can be purchased at kiosks, certain hotels or any telephone office. The cards can be used for both local and long-distance calls. For long-distance calls, cards of 500 units are available.

North American tri-band cell phones work in Athens. Purchase a "pay-as-you-go" Greek SIM card for around 5 euros and upwards.

There are fewer free Wi-Fi hot spots than in some other European countries, though visitors with laptops can pick up free Wi-Fi at hot spots on Syntagma Square, Kotzia Square and Thissio metro station. Most hotels, restaurants and bars provide Wi-Fi and, as is common everywhere, the more expensive hotels charge for it, whereas cheaper hotels offer free Wi-Fi. ELTA Syntagma Square There are several local post offices in Athens. The main office is at Syntagma Square. Parcels and registered letters must be left open for Athens, Greece inspection before being mailed at the post office. Stamps are available http://www.elta.gr from the post office or the coin machines outside. You may be able to buy stamps at your hotel's reception desk. Don't bother phoning for information unless you are fluent in Greek. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-8 pm, Saturday 7:30 am-2 pm, Sunday 9 am-1:30 pm. Syntagma Square, Athens. http://www.elta.gr. The International Herald Tribune includes Kathimerini, an English-language daily newspaper covering Greek affairs, as well as film reviews and extensive entertainment information (http://www.ekathimerini.com). If you can read Greek, the best available entertainment guide is the weekly Athinorama (http://www.athinorama.gr).

Publications from North America and western Europe are available at kiosks near Syntagma Square, and a variety of foreign publications can be found at kiosks in the Kolonaki area. The deluxe hotels also carry foreign-language newspapers.

Transportation

Getting to Athens is no problem. Greece's capital is served by international flights, trains, ships and highways. The once notorious traffic has ebbed down lately, partly due to people cutting back on fuel costs.

Subway lines have alleviated some of the traffic in the city center, but driving can be quite chaotic for non-Greek visitors. The subway lines have also made public transportation an option for reaching some sites, though complicated bus routes still get the best of many travelers. Walk to as many places as possible and hire a taxi when your feet get tired. Be sure the meter is switched on only when your journey begins. No matter how you tackle Athens, a map of the city center is essential.

When walking, be aware of cars, motorcycles and scooters. Don't expect any vehicle to stop for you at a crosswalk, and don't trust a car to stop at a red light. Because most major attractions are within 2.5 mi/4 km of Syntagma Square, a cool, early-morning walk between the sights can be quite pleasant. You'll probably want to return by taxi, though, especially during the summer months.

Air

E. Venizelos Intl (ATH) Spata

Athens International Airport (ATH) is served by many airlines and direct Athens, Greece 19019 flights are available to several domestic, European and International Phone: 210-353-0000 destinations. ATH has 4 cargo terminals of 275,000 tonnes capacity. http://www.aia.gr The airport has upgraded to Level 3+ Neutrality of the Airport Carbon Accreditation Programme and it is the first carbon-neutral airport in Greece since 2015. It has received Routes Europe 2019 Marketing Award in the 20 million annual passenger category and ACI World ASQ Award Best Airport in Europe for Customer Experience March 2019. For more information about the airport call +30 210 35 30 000 or visit www.aia.gr/traveler/.

Security Safety and security at the airport and throughout the air travel is highly prioritized. Online check-in services are offered by most of the airlines. If boarding pass is not available to passengers who are on transit, proceed to the nearest transfer desk handled by airlines and ground handlers.

Passengers who already have a boarding pass should ensure to check flight information monitor for gate details at the departure level. Baggage that is tagged for the final destination will also be checked at ATH and customs should be cleared. Arriving passengers go through passport control, pick up baggage, complete customs clearance and exit from the arrivals area. Airlines and ground handling agents take care of baggage handling and delivery at ATH. Size and weight restrictions of hand luggage and checked-in luggage can be checked with the airline.

Liquids can be carried in a transparent re-sealable bag weighing 1 liter, each container inside should weigh 100 grams or 100 ml and the bag will be inspected. Duty-free liquids, aerosols, gels purchased from the airport can be carried in hand luggage provided they are screened at the security checkpoint. Cigarettes, mobile phones, coins, other items from the pocket, should be removed from hand luggage and placed for inspection. Coat, jacket, laptop, and other electronic devices should also be displayed. Passengers entering or leaving the EU with cash of €10,000 or more are required to declare the same to the customs office as part of the currency declaration. Passengers can carry alcohol and tobacco products from one EU country to another for personal use but not for resale. Hand luggage should be free from sharp items such as knives, razor blades, blade knives, pocket knives, scissors, nail files, forks, and corkscrew. Hand luggage and checked-in luggage should not have gas, poison, explosives, magnetized material, nail polish removers, corrosives, flammable liquids, and radioactive material. Passengers can check with the airline to know the transport rules of pets. Unaccompanied minors will be escorted by the airline staff.

Connecting Transportation Rental car services are offered by Avance, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Sixt. Rental car counters are located at the arrivals level of the main terminal. Metro Line 3, suburban rail and buses can be accessed to reach the airport. Taxi cabs can be availed at the designated taxi waiting area at Exit 3 of the arrivals level. Pre-booked taxis and limousines are available upon request. Driving directions to the airport can be found at https://www.aia.gr/traveler/access-and- transportation/predefined-routes/get-directions/. Suburban rail, bus and metro lines are available from the airport to Port of Piraeus. Regional Bus Service (KTEL) runs from the airport to Port of Rafina and Port of Lavrio.

Coaches handle the bulk of long-distance public transport overland in Greece, as the geography discourages rail links. KTEL is a network of local operators. KTEL Terminal A, Kifissou Bus Station Terminal A is at 100 Kifissou St. The country's KTEL buses, traveling to and from the Peloponnese, western Greece and the Ionian Islands, arrive there. Terminal A is at Athens, Greece 100 Kifissou St., Athens. Phone 210-512-4910 or 210-512-4911. Phone: 210-512-4910

KTEL Terminal B, Liossion Bus Station Terminal B is at 260 Liossion St. Serves buses to and from parts of northern Greece, eastern Greece and Evia Island. Terminal B is at 260 Liossion St., Athens. Phone 210- Athens, Greece 831-7186. http://www.ktel-trikala.gr. Phone: 210-831-7186 http://www.ktel-trikala.gr

Traffic can get quite confusing in Athens, and parking anywhere in the city is difficult, so driving is not recommended. Additionally, motor vehicles have been banned in some parts of downtown Athens. A 1-sq- mi/2.6-sq-km area, in the triangle formed by the main shopping arteries of Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou, is traffic-free. The legal driving age in Greece is 18, and most car rental companies require drivers to be at least 21 years old. Public ferries leave regularly from Piraeus to the Greek islands. You can buy tickets from travel agents in Athens or from ticket offices near the docks in Piraeus. If you are taking a long trip in a large boat, buy first-class tickets. Twin-hulled hovercrafts and hydrofoils operate between Piraeus and Mykonos, Hydra, Spetses, Poros and other islands. Travel time is about half that of the ferry, but the tickets also cost more, and these high-speed boats are far more likely than ferries to be cancelled due to rough sea conditions. Visitors are advised to wear long trousers and carry a light jacket with them during their stay onboard due to air-conditioning set at annoyingly low temperatures.

For information regarding ships leaving Piraeus and Rafina (Athens' second port, which lies about a 40-minute drive east of the city center) on domestic routes phone 14541.

Major passenger shipping companies include ANEK (http://www.anek.gr), Blue Star (http://www.bluestarferries.com), Hellenic Mediterranean Lines (http://www.hmlferry.com), Hellenic Seaways (http://www.hellenicseaways.gr), Minoan Lines (http://www.minoan.gr) and Superfast (http://www.superfast.com).

You can compare prices and timetables online, as well as book tickets, at http://www.greekferries.gr.

Athens' public transportation system, run by the Athens Urban Transport Organization (http://www.oasa.gr), was once one of the worst in Europe but has improved with the addition of more subway lines and air-conditioned buses. The network is still confusing for many visitors, but it reaches all areas of the city. The ISAP (Athens-Piraeus Electric Rail; http://www.stasy.gr), which runs from Piraeus to Kiffissia via the city center, has linked up to become Line 1 of the Athens metro system.

An ordinary single ticket (ATH.ENA card or ticket) for use on all Athenian public transportation systems (bus, metro, trolleys and trams) for up to 90 minutes costs 1.40 euros.

Buses Athens, Greece For most of the day, the blue buses are absolutely packed. Drivers rarely speak English. Purchase a ticket before the trip and validate it contactless in the orange machine onboard. A ticket for one single journey, priced at 1.40 euros (valid for multiple rides on all public transportation, excluding airport, for 90 minutes), is available at special blue booths and near blue bus stops. Routes, fares and timetables are available online, but the English pages are incomplete. Phone 185. http://www.oasa.gr.

Subways Athens, Greece The subway system—called Attiko Metro—now has three lines (including the ISAP train to Piraeus now known as Line 1 or green line), and further expansions Phone: 214-414-6400 are planned. The red line (No. 2) connects the suburb of Elliniko in the southeast http://www.stasy.gr with Anthoupoli in the northwest. The blue line (No. 3) runs from Agia Marina, passing through Kerameikos, in the popular nightlife district of Gazi, and Monastiraki, in the Plaka, to Doukissis Plakentias, in the eastern part of the city with some, but not all, trains continuing all the way to the airport in Spata. The old green line (No. 1) still runs between northern Kifissia and the port of Piraeus. Maps are available at stations. Trains run every four minutes during rush hour and every 10 minutes the rest of the day. Tickets must be purchased before entering the subway and punched in the orange machines before entering the train platform. Inspectors sometimes enter trains, and fines are issued for passengers riding without properly validated tickets. If you forget to stamp before boarding, write the time and date on your ticket—and hope for the best. The green line operates 5 am-1 am; the red and blue lines 5:30 am-12:20 am. The red and blue lines work extended hours till 2:20 am on Friday and Saturday nights. Tickets cost 1.40 euros and are valid for multiple rides within 90 minutes on all public transportation (excluding airport). Phone 214-414-6400. http://www.stasy.gr. Trams Athens, Greece Line 1 runs from Syntagma Square in the city center to the seaside resort of Glyfada and further on to Voula, and Line 2 runs along the Phone: 214-414-6400 coast to Neo Faliro (close to Piraeus). Because of construction work the http://www.stasy.gr tram doesn't operate from the station at Kasomouli to Syntagma. A 1.40 euros electronic ticket is available at automatic vending machines. You must validate your ticket in a machine onboard. Phone 214-414-6400 for information. http://www.stasy.gr.

Trolleys Athens, Greece 10682 The purple-and-yellow trolleys travel shorter distances than the buses but use the same ticket system. Tickets are available at special blue Phone: 210-820-0999 booths, near bus stops or at kiosks throughout the city. Routes connect http://www.oasa.gr with the metro stops. Schedules are hard to come by. A ticket for one single journey, priced at 1.40 euros, is available at kiosks or on board. You must validate your ticket in a machine onboard. Phone 210-820- 0999. http://www.oasa.gr.

Cruise ships plying the Mediterranean frequently stop at Piraeus, the port of Athens. You can take the green subway line (Line 1) from the port to downtown Athens. Taxis also are available and generally charge about 9 euros-11 euros (12 euros-17 euros at night), depending on traffic conditions and amount of luggage. Licensed Athens city cabs are yellow in color. Like all Greek taxis, they are privately owned and cheap compared with those in western Europe. However, most drivers do not speak English and may (apparently) not have a firm grasp of city geography, a map or even the wherewithal to read yours. There are three ways to catch a cab: Flag one down on the street, wait for one outside a major hotel or make a reservation. Ask at your hotel what the cost of a taxi ride to your destination should be—it's not unusual for visitors to be overcharged. Note that the meter should be running throughout your journey, and during the day should show tariff number "1." Tariff 2 is for night-time travel and costs much more.

Passengers can share a flagged cab, but unless they are picked up together and heading to the same destination, each will be charged the full fare. Expect to pay a small luggage surcharge and a late-night surcharge if you are riding midnight-5 am. The minimum fee is 3.16 euros. Expect tiny additional tariffs to the airport, ports, bus and train stations.

Many drivers belong to a radio-controlled cooperative and will accept reservations for early-morning or late-night fares. A small fee is charged for this service. Nevertheless, if arriving on time is critical, paying the surcharge for a radio taxi is a good idea.

Address complaints to the tourist police (phone 171). Record the driver's license number. Disputes are frequent on the airport run: Don't hesitate to argue if you're overcharged once you're at the terminal. Wave the rate card (which legally must be displayed) and haggle until an agreement is reached.

Should you need to travel further afield, the Athens suburbs and surrounding area are connected to the city by local trains known as Proastikos. The fare is the same as on other Athens city transportation: 1.40 euros. Tickets must be validated in a machine on the platform before boarding the train. Athens has one train station, located off Theodorou Deligianni Street, near Omonia Square. Larissis Rail Station is also referred to as Athens Central Station, and it is served by the metro (red line).

Several railway services to other parts of the Greek mainland have been suspended or services cut back because of the Greek financial crisis, and all international trains have been suspended. Intercity Express is an express train that travels north to Thessaloniki, and west to Corinth (but no longer all the way to Patras or Olympia). Trains are clean, efficient and air-conditioned, but are almost always slower than motor coaches. First-class (proti thesi) and second-class (thefteri thesi) options are available. Reserving a seat is always wise. A hot meal can be purchased in first class (on the line between Athens and Thessaloniki), and there are snack bars on the train. Tourist cards permit unlimited first-class travel for three or five days (within one month). For information or a schedule, contact the Hellenic Railways (OSE). 6 Sina St. (between Syntagma and Omonia Square), Athens. Phone 1110. http://www.trainose.gr.

For More Information

Additional Resources

Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens by Sofka Zinovieff (Granta Books). A wonderfully fun account of the author's first year acclimating to life in Athens with her family.

Lords of the Sea: The Triumph and Tragedy of Ancient Athens by John R. Hale (Gibson Square). An accessible account of the history of Athens.

Athens Tourist Information Center (National Tourist Organization Dionysiou Areopagitou Street 18-20 of Greece, GNTO) Athens, Greece 115 21 The main administration office is located in a residential neighborhood at 24 Tsoha St. Phone 210-870-7000. More useful to visitors is the Phone: 210-331-0392 purpose-built walk-in information center where you can obtain maps, http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/main_cities/athens brochures, useful advice and information. Another useful source of information is the website http://www.thisisathens.org set up by the Athens Tourism & Economic Development Agency. Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm. Dionysiou Areopagitou Street 18-20 (opposite the Acropolis Museum), Athens. Phone 210-331-0392 or 210-331-0716. http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/main_cities/athens.

ELPA 395 Messoghion Ave., Agia A good source of tourist information is the English-speaking Hellenic Paraskevi Auto Club (ELPA). The website is in Greek only. 395 Messoghion Ave., Agia Paraskevi, Athens. Toll-free 10-400 for an emergency breakdown Athens, Greece (24-hours). http://www.elpa.gr. http://www.elpa.gr

Tourist Police Athens, Greece The best bet for tourist information, especially because the officers speak English and French. The Tourist Police can be reached by phone 24 hours by dialing 171.

EVENTS

Calendar

Athens' cultural calendar boasts year-round concerts, operas and dance performances in special venues: in fall and winter at the Athens Concert Hall, also known as the Megaron, and at the end of summer, in outdoor performances that recall the city's ancient culture.

Through the summer months, music and drama fill the Lykavittos Theater and Herod Atticus Amphitheater (below the Acropolis). Greek folk dancers grace Philopappou Hill. At Epidaurus, Greek plays are performed in a historic setting that is worth the three-hour trip from Athens.

January 6 Jan—Epiphany Public holiday.

3, 10, 17, 24, 31 Jan—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

7, 14, 21, 28 Feb—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

7, 14, 21, 28 Mar—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

4, 11, 18, 25 Apr—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

2, 9, 16, 23, 30 May—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

6, 13, 20, 27 Jun—Changing of the Guard Traditionally attired soldiers change their guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier each Sunday at 11 am. Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

25 Dec—Christmas Public holiday.

31 Dec—New Year's Eve Traditionally, the end of the year is marked by singing carols, playing cards with friends and exchanging gifts.