Athens Strikes & Protests Survival Guide Budget Athens Winter 2011 - 2012 Beat the Crisis Day Trip Delphi, the Navel of the World Ski Around Athens Yes You Can!
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps ATHENS Strikes & Protests Survival guide Budget Athens Winter 2011 - 2012 Beat the crisis Day trip Delphi, the Navel of the world Ski around Athens Yes you can! N°21 - €2 inyourpocket.com CONTENTS CONTENTS 3 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents The Basics Facts, habits, attitudes 6 History A few thousand years in two pages 10 Districts of Athens Be seen in the right places 12 Budget Athens What crisis? 14 Strikes & Protests A survival guide 15 Day trip Antique shop Spend a day at the Navel of the world 16 Dining & Nightlife Ski time Restaurants Best resorts around Athens 17 How to avoid eating like a ‘tourist’ 23 Cafés Where to stay Join the ‘frappé’ nation 28 5* or hostels, the best is here for you 18 Nightlife One of the main reasons you’re here! 30 Gay Athens 34 Sightseeing Monuments and Archaeological Sites 36 Acropolis Museum 40 Museums 42 Historic Buildings 46 Getting Around Airplanes, boats and trains 49 Shopping 53 Directory 56 Maps & Index Metro map 59 City map 60 Index 66 A pleasant but rare Athenian view athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 4 FOREWORD ARRIVING IN ATHENS he financial avalanche that started two years ago Tfrom Greece and has now spread all over Europe, Europe In Your Pocket has left the country and its citizens on their knees. The population has already gone through the stages of denial and anger and is slowly coming to terms with the idea that their life is never going to be the same again. A new government was formed in November under prime minister Lucas Papademos, an ex central banker, and a new bail out has been agreed to keep Greece afloat. But given the severity of the crisis and the fact that it has touched the heart of the Eurozone, no one can tell if the money will keep coming in through the winter. Although demonstrations and riots in the streets of Athens are not as frequent as a few months ago, we have prepared a “survival guide” in case you happen to be in the city during a public protest. We also have some suggestions on how to make your stay in the city more affordable. Finally, although few visitors think of Greece as a winter sports destination, there are more than 20 decent ski resorts scattered around the country. We have all the information about those accessible from the capital even for a day’s excursion. And talking about day trips, we also suggest a fascinating visit to the ancient “Naval In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of of the world” in Delphi, a popular destination for many late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands visitors of Athens. (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in And as always, there is our comprehensive guide to the Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Swit- city nightlife which still remains vibrant, espacially during zerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This weekends, and our complete guide to the Athenian year will also see the first non-European Pockets museums and arcaelogical sites. Enjoy your stay. rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique. We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Cover story Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to The Roman Agora, a 28.000 sq.m ancient keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like site in the area of Plaka, right under the In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ Acropolis rock. (See page 36) inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. © VK com/inyourpocket). Editorial Copyright notice Publisher Fotis Georgeles Text and photos copyright Athens Pocket ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Managing Editor Vangelis Koronakis Ltd 2008-2011. All rights reserved. Contributors Mandi Millen, No part of this publication may be Maps © Orama editions reproduced in any form, except brief Athens In Your Pocket Layout & Design AIYP creative studio extracts for the purpose of its review, Harilaou Trikoupi 22 without written permission from the Photography © Athens IYP - V.K. publisher and copyright owner. The 106 79 Athens tel. (+30) 210 3617360 (ext. 217) Greece trademark In Your Pocket is used under fax (+30) 210 3632317 license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) e-mail: [email protected] 212 29 76). www.inyourpocket.com Sales & Circulation www.inyourpocket.gr Advertising Director Louisa Nathanail Editor’s note Advertising Mgr Nikos Tsouanatos The editorial content of In Your Pocket An Athens Voice Publication Direct Market Mgr Vassilis guides is independent from paid-for Zarkadoulas advertising. Sponsored listings are ISSN 1791-4558 clearly marked as such. We welcome all © Athens In Your Pocket tel. (+30) 210 3617530 readers‘ comments and suggestions. fax (+30) 210 3617310 We have made every effort to ensure Published 5 times per year the accuracy of the information at the This issue: 20,000 copies Financial Director Efi Mourtzi time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com FOREWORD ARRIVING IN ATHENS 5 Arriving by air Message from the Mayor Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport Dear friends, The primary entry into Athens is Eleftherios Venizelos airport, situated 27 km (16.8 miles) east of Athens. To I would like to wel- get to town you have a choice between metro, suburban come you to the City railway, bus, taxi and, of course, car hire. of Athens, and wish you an exciting, en- Metro is probably the best option (40 minutes to the joyable and reward- centre of Athens). ing stay. Athens, you Suburban railway-Proastiakos (running every 30 min- will soon discover, utes) will take you to Nerantziotissa station, where you entails a great deal must change to enter the metro system. more than its world- Tickets for both the metro and the Proastiakos cost €8 renowned historic for a single ride (€14 for two and €20 for three persons and cultural attrac- traveling together). tions. This comes down to its richest resource – its people, who The bus ticket costs €5 and will take you to the following are friendly, active and innovative. Full of life and destinations: Bus X92 to Kifisia, Bus X93 to the central passionate about their town, they love nothing intercity bus station, Bus X94 to Ethniki Amyna metro sta- more than showing guests what makes Athens tion, Bus X95 to Syntagma Square, Bus X96 to Piraeus & so unique. the harbour and Bus X97 to Dafni metro station. All the above except Bus X94 run 24hrs. Athens is a global capital, one that has helped Indicatively, it takes about 45 minutes to get to Syn- define and still treasures freedom, fairness, tagma Square by bus, but that of course depends on democracy, solidarity and passionate exchange the traffic. of ideas and knowledge. Through the ages Athe- nians have always filled the streets and the agora You can always pick up a taxi which costs €35 (fixed price to meet people, discover new ideas and speak including all extras) during daytime and €50 (fixed) their mind, loudly and clearly, while preserving a between 00:00 and 05:00 . profound respect for the opinions of others. Finally, all major car rental companies keep desks inside Athens is a city open to visitors year-round with the airport building. An array of shops and services is an array of tourism options that encompasses available at the airport such as a post office, banks, arts and culture, innovation, gastronomy, day newsstands, cafés, even an airport museum. and night life, shopping, spiritual landmarks and sport, among others. Arriving by boat Easily accessible and strategically located, Athens is a city that offers those wishing to do From Italy to Patras: There are many connections business or talk business with top quality infra- across the Adriatic Sea and a few ferry companies oper- structure, highly-qualified, multilingual human ate between the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona and resources, unlimited development potential, the port of Patras. professional services, state-of-the-art technol- If you have your own car, take the road to Korinthos and ogy and a secure, hospitable environment. then on to Athens (220 km). Be extremely careful as this poor excuse for a national road is very dangerous and We welcome all visitors to Athens, be it for busi- accidents happen very often. If you‘re traveling without a ness or pleasure, and hope their stay proves an car take the intercity bus (KTEL) to Athens central station inspiring, invigorating and meaningful experience. (single €18.90). We look forward to seeing you here again soon. From the islands to Piraeus: If you arrive in Piraeus by boat, chances are that you‘ll disembark within walking George Kaminis distance of the metro terminal where you can get the Mayor of Athens metro to the city centre. If you are too far (i.e. the cruise liners’ dock) or your luggage is too heavy, there is a free bus service that runs inside the harbour. Try to avoid taxis but if it is necessary to use one, then pick one up from the street outside the harbour area. Thessaloniki Arriving by train is now In Your Pocket! Unfortunately as part of the restructuring of the debt -ridden Greek railways all international routes that used Check out online: to connect Thessaloniki with the Balkan capitals have been suspended. So until neighbouring countries’ rail inyourpocket.com/greece/thessaloniki companies start to operate the international routes from Sofia, Belgrade and Istanbul, there is no option to arrive in the country by train.