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Home , Alekos Fassianos, Asklipieio, Ernst Ziller, Fethiye Mosque (Athens), George I of Greece, Goudi

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Strikes & Protests Survival guide Budget Athens Winter 2011 - 2012 Beat the crisis Day trip Delphi, the Navel of the world Ski around Athens Yes you can!

N°21 - €2 inyourpocket.com Contents Contents 3

ESSENTIAL GUIDES

Contents The Basics Facts, habits, attitudes 6 History A few thousand years in two pages 10 Districts of Athens Be seen in the right places 12 Budget Athens What crisis? 14 Strikes & Protests A survival guide 15 Day trip Antique shop Spend a day at the Navel of the world 16 Dining & Nightlife Ski time Restaurants Best resorts around Athens 17 How to avoid eating like a ‘tourist’ 23 Cafés Where to stay Join the ‘frappé’ nation 28 5* or hostels, the best is here for you 18 Nightlife One of the main reasons you’re here! 30

Gay Athens 34

Sightseeing Monuments and Archaeological Sites 36

Acropolis Museum 40

Museums 42

Historic Buildings 46 Getting Around Airplanes, boats and trains 49

Shopping 53

Directory 56 Maps & Index Metro map 59 City map 60 Index 66 A pleasant but rare Athenian view athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 4 Foreword arriving in athens

he financial avalanche that started two years ago Tfrom and has now spread all over , Europe In Your Pocket has left the country and its citizens on their knees. The population has already gone through the stages of denial and anger and is slowly coming to terms with the idea that their life is never going to be the same again. A new government was formed in November under prime minister , an ex central banker, and a new bail out has been agreed to keep Greece afloat. But given the severity of the crisis and the fact that it has touched the heart of the Eurozone, no one can tell if the money will keep coming in through the winter. Although demonstrations and riots in the streets of Athens are not as frequent as a few months ago, we have prepared a “survival guide” in case you happen to be in the city during a public protest. We also have some suggestions on how to make your stay in the city more affordable. Finally, although few visitors think of Greece as a winter sports destination, there are more than 20 decent ski resorts scattered around the country. We have all the information about those accessible from the capital even for a day’s excursion. And talking about day trips, we also suggest a fascinating visit to the ancient “Naval In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of of the world” in Delphi, a popular destination for many late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands visitors of Athens. (Tilburg, with to follow very soon), in And as always, there is our comprehensive guide to the Austria (), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Swit- city nightlife which still remains vibrant, espacially during zerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This weekends, and our complete guide to the Athenian year will also see the first non-European Pockets museums and arcaelogical sites. Enjoy your stay. rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique. We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all our . We will be launching even more In Your Cover story Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to The , a 28.000 sq.m ancient keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like

site in the area of , right under the In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/

Acropolis rock. (See page 36) inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. © VK com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Publisher Fotis Georgeles Text and photos copyright Athens Pocket ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Managing Editor Vangelis Koronakis Ltd 2008-2011. All rights reserved. Contributors Mandi Millen, No part of this publication may be Maps © Orama editions reproduced in any form, except brief Athens In Your Pocket Layout & Design AIYP creative studio extracts for the purpose of its review, Harilaou Trikoupi 22 without written permission from the Photography © Athens IYP - V.K. publisher and copyright owner. The 106 79 Athens tel. (+30) 210 3617360 (ext. 217) Greece trademark In Your Pocket is used under fax (+30) 210 3632317 license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) e-mail: [email protected] 212 29 76). www.inyourpocket.com Sales & Circulation www.inyourpocket.gr Advertising Director Louisa Nathanail Editor’s note Advertising Mgr Nikos Tsouanatos The editorial content of In Your Pocket An Athens Voice Publication Direct Market Mgr Vassilis guides is independent from paid-for Zarkadoulas advertising. Sponsored listings are ISSN 1791-4558 clearly marked as such. We welcome all © Athens In Your Pocket tel. (+30) 210 3617530 readers‘ comments and suggestions. fax (+30) 210 3617310 We have made every effort to ensure Published 5 times per year the accuracy of the information at the This issue: 20,000 copies Financial Director Efi Mourtzi time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Foreword arriving in athens 5

Arriving by air Message from the Mayor Athens International Airport Dear friends, The primary entry into Athens is Eleftherios Venizelos airport, situated 27 km (16.8 miles) east of Athens. To I would like to wel- get to town you have a choice between metro, suburban come you to the City railway, bus, taxi and, of course, car hire. of Athens, and wish you an exciting, en- Metro is probably the best option (40 minutes to the joyable and reward- centre of Athens). ing stay. Athens, you Suburban railway- (running every 30 min- will soon discover, utes) will take you to Nerantziotissa station, where you entails a great deal must change to enter the metro system. more than its world- Tickets for both the metro and the Proastiakos cost €8 renowned historic for a single ride (€14 for two and €20 for three persons and cultural attrac- traveling together). tions. This comes down to its richest resource – its people, who The bus ticket costs €5 and will take you to the following are friendly, active and innovative. Full of life and destinations: Bus X92 to Kifisia, Bus X93 to the central passionate about their town, they love nothing intercity bus station, Bus X94 to Ethniki Amyna metro sta- more than showing guests what makes Athens tion, Bus X95 to , Bus X96 to & so unique. the harbour and Bus X97 to Dafni metro station. All the above except Bus X94 run 24hrs. Athens is a global capital, one that has helped Indicatively, it takes about 45 minutes to get to Syn- define and still treasures freedom, fairness, tagma Square by bus, but that of course depends on democracy, solidarity and passionate exchange the traffic. of ideas and knowledge. Through the ages Athe- nians have always filled the streets and the agora You can always pick up a taxi which costs €35 (fixed price to meet people, discover new ideas and speak including all extras) during daytime and €50 (fixed) their mind, loudly and clearly, while preserving a between 00:00 and 05:00 . profound respect for the opinions of others. Finally, all major car rental companies keep desks inside Athens is a city open to visitors year-round with the airport building. An array of shops and services is an array of tourism options that encompasses available at the airport such as a post office, banks, arts and culture, innovation, gastronomy, day newsstands, cafés, even an airport museum. and night life, shopping, spiritual landmarks and sport, among others. Arriving by boat Easily accessible and strategically located, Athens is a city that offers those wishing to do From Italy to : There are many connections business or talk business with top quality infra- across the and a few ferry companies oper- structure, highly-qualified, multilingual human ate between the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona and resources, unlimited development potential, the port of Patras. professional services, state-of-the-art technol- If you have your own car, take the road to Korinthos and ogy and a secure, hospitable environment. then on to Athens (220 km). Be extremely careful as this poor excuse for a national road is very dangerous and We welcome all visitors to Athens, be it for busi- accidents happen very often. If you‘re traveling without a ness or pleasure, and hope their stay proves an car take the intercity bus (KTEL) to Athens central station inspiring, invigorating and meaningful experience. (single €18.90). We look forward to seeing you here again soon.

From the islands to Piraeus: If you arrive in Piraeus by boat, chances are that you‘ll disembark within walking George Kaminis distance of the metro terminal where you can get the Mayor of to the city centre. If you are too far (i.e. the cruise liners’ dock) or your luggage is too heavy, there is a free bus service that runs inside the harbour. Try to avoid taxis but if it is necessary to use one, then pick one up from the street outside the harbour area. Arriving by train is now In Your Pocket!

Unfortunately as part of the restructuring of the debt -ridden Greek railways all international routes that used Check out online: to connect Thessaloniki with the Balkan capitals have been suspended. So until neighbouring countries’ rail inyourpocket.com/greece/thessaloniki companies start to operate the international routes from Sofia, Belgrade and Istanbul, there is no option to arrive in the country by train. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 6 Basics basics

Facts & Figures Time Official country name: Hellenic Republic Population: (2001 census) 10.9 million Greece is in the zone (EET): Total territory: 131,944 sq km (51,458 sq mi) GMT +2 hours. Between the last Sunday of March and Athens population: 3.8 million the last Sunday of October Greece is in the Eastern Religion: 98% Greek Orthodox, 1.5% Muslim European Summer Time Zone (EEST): GMT +3 hours Political system: Parliamentary democracy GDP per capita: $ 29,240 (2009) Inflation rate: 3.5 % (Apr) Unemployment rate: 16.2% (Mar) Highest point: 2,917m Customs Length of coastline: 15,021 km There are no restrictions placed upon incoming travelers from other E.U. countries (with the exception of tobacco and alcohol products, which are restricted to amounts corres- Alcohol ponding to individual personal use only, i.e. 800 cigarettes and 10lt of strong spirits per visitor). tend to drink on social occasions and you will rarely If you are arriving from non-EU countries, you are entitled to witness scenes of extreme drunkenness in the streets or import products of a total value of €175. Animals must have in bars, clubs etc. Alcohol is freely available 24 hours a day undergone all mandatory vaccinations and be equipped even from kiosks in the streets. with passports. Strangely enough, you are not allowed to The common beer brands dominating the market are any- import the following: drugs, weapons, nuclear or biological thing but local: Amstel and Heineken boast a combined mar- substances, explosives, flammable gases, protected spe- ket share of around 70%. However, over the last few years cies, animal products and pornographic material (as for this many new Greek brands have been introduced into the mar- last category, you shouldn’t worry, as you’ll be able to find it ket and are steadily gaining in popularity: Mythos and Alpha aplenty once you’re in the country) are the most popular. Most other well-known international brands are widely available. Go easy on beer as most brands have an alcohol content Disabled travellers of five percent or higher. Greeks generally drink beer in the Unfortunately, Athens is not a Special Needs-friendly city. summer months and usually as an accompaniment to their In fact, it is a disgrace that even the disabled residents meals. of the city itself face a nightmare whenever they need to Stick to beer or wine unless you are absolutely certain of leave their homes. Authorities try to make their lives easier the quality of the spirits served. Some bar owners serve by constructing wheelchair and blind-person friendly pave- cheap (methanol-based) spirit substitutes out of branded ments but, in practice, all these vital aids for the disabled bottles and a great night out may end up in a miserable day are rendered useless by insensitive car and motorbike dri- in bed nursing a nasty hangover. vers, who park their vehicles in every last inch of available A visitor should not leave Athens without savouring Ouzo, space imaginable (including right in front of wheelchair ac- the renowned Greek traditional spirit (together with scotch, cess ramps), making the life of even non-disabled pedestri- to be sure) that is best enjoyed with seafood meals. Dilu- ans a living hell. Restaurants and public buildings are obliged ted with water and ice, it becomes a lovely milky-coloured by to offer easy access and specially adapted toilets for aniseed-flavoured drink, but be warned: it will give you the the disabled, but then again, are there to be broken... worst hangover of your life if you consume it in excess. Mastiha is another pleasant, sweet-tasting spirit, made with the resin of the Mastic tree and is an exclusive product Drugs of island. All drugs are illegal in Greece and there is a strict zero- Finally, Greece produces a plethora of international and local tolerance policy. However, smoking hash/cannabis does grape varieties, which make very good wines. Retsina is of happen among young (and not-so-young) Athenians, but course the most famous of these, with a pine resin flavour, they usually do so in the privacy of their homes. Take which is added during fermentation. It is, however, looked our word for it and don’t try to get your hands on dope. down upon by modern-day Athenians, who don’t think of it as classy enough for their refined taste buds: more of a peasant or working class wine. Climate Bouzoukia This is an exclusively Greek institution, which has evolved to survive many decades of Athenian nightlife: Well-known Greek singers perform live most nights in ‘bouzoukia’ night- clubs and that’s where a visitor can get a first-hand experi- ence of the truly local sense of fun. Although plate-smashing is no longer en vogue, the heaps upon heaps of carnations showered upon singers as they perform songs from the local popular repertoire, the endless quantities of scotch downed in a single night and, no less, the scantily dressed young ladies dancing on the tables and singing along with their favourite artists, all go a long way towards making this a not-to-be-missed experience for any visitor.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Basics basics 7

Electricity The In Your Pocket iPhone App European style two pin sockets are used and electricity comes at 230V 50Hz AC. Adaptors are available at most A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now hotels and electrical appliance shops, as well as at the available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Develo- Airport shops. ped in association with Meta4Labs, the apps combine all the best features of In Your Pocket Etiquette guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality Greeks like to think of themselves as a nation apart from all the rest. They believe they are direct descendants of their of the iPhone. illustrious ancient forebears and they are very proud of their history and past. They tend to think that the rest of the world, although it revolves around them, is constantly conspiring against them and never understands them. If you avoid questioning the...obvious correctness of these views, most Greeks will lean over backwards to please you as a guest. If you go out to dinner with locals, there is no way you will be allowed to pay your share of the bill and if they ask you to stay over at their house, they will in all likelihood offer you their own bed, in order to make you feel as comfortable as possible. This is known as ‘filotimo’, a Greek word without an exact equivalent in English, meaning something between a sense of honour, dignity and pride and is a highly-praised virtue in Greek society Health & Safety Athens is a polluted city but has come a long way since the eighties. New technology cars and buses and the transfer of all heavy industries outside city limits have reduced emis- sions to a bearable level for a city of its size. Depending on atmospheric conditions though, you may still get the odd You can search all venues in a city by location, smoggy day and feel like you just woke up in Mexico City! and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest There are no widespread infectious diseases that should be of concern to the visitor and no vaccinations are required to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content prior to your visit. Greece has a relatively low (but steadily and offline. We even supply high-resolution static alarmingly rising) level of HIV infections. Complacency among street and transport maps (exactly the same young people leads the authorities to run awareness-raising as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your campaigns every so often. Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge Tap water is chlorinated and perfectly safe. Or so the public roaming charges. water company says. If you prefer bottled mineral water you can buy it everywhere cheap. Its street price is strictly Other features include fully integrated Google regulated (50c for a half litre bottle and 1 Euro for a 1.5 litre bottle) as it is considered an essential amenity during the Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, em- long hot summers. bedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency Athens is a safe European capital (then again, most guides exchange calculator and local weather informa- for most capitals tend to claim the same). The good old tion. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res cliché ‘if you don’t go looking for trouble you’ll be perfectly graphics for iPhone 4. fine’ applies here too. Petty crime does exist, but if you avoid certain areas, such as And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are the backstreets around Omonia and Vathis Squares, espe- cially as a sole traveler, and keep an eye on your belongings, updated regularly by local researchers and your stay in Athens will be trouble-free. native English speaking writers. More than ten Women traveling alone may encounter the Mediterranean In Your Pocket cities are currently available temperament of some local men but this rarely goes beyond as iPhone apps, and more are being released a stare or a whistle. all the time. Finally, you will definitely get thrown out of a bar if you get plastered and cause trouble.But that’s fair enough, isn’t it? Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and Metro on your iPhone. It was finally constructed about a century after most of its European counterparts, but for that same reason, Athens has one of the most luxurious and squeaky clean metro systems in Europe. It only has two lines (plus a pre-existing one which runs over-ground) but its stations are lined with marble and granite and are generously and tastefully adorned with artworks and replicas of ancient objects (in some cases, even showcasing original archaeological material). athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 8 Basics basics

Money Greece adopted the Euro currency on January 2, 2002. Police emergency tel. 100 Prices soared as a result of the conversion, a fact which still ranks high as a favourite (and heated) topic of discussion among Greeks, usually embarked upon when presented Ambulance tel. 166 with their restaurant bill and suddenly filled with nostalgia for the good-old Drachma days. Fire Service tel. 199 Major international credit cards are accepted everywhere and travelers’ cheques can be cashed-in at hotels and banks. Roads & Driving Music piracy Athenian drivers are a lot safer and more disciplined than The country features in the black list of international anti- those of Cairo, Istanbul and probably … piracy organisations. Friendly smiling Nigerians equipped They do stop at red traffic lights most times, but that’s about with stacks of pirate CDs and DVDs can be found roaming it. Like their Balkan counterparts, they strongly believe that every neighbourhood of the city. heavy traffic can magically disappear at the touch of their Athenians tend to spend a lot of money on pirate music (or horn. They have no respect whatsoever for pedestrians and they did before they started downloading it for free). Add cycling is a sure way to eventually land yourself as a client to that the Greek judges’ sympathy for the young Nigerians of the National Health Service (and that’s the last thing you when the unsympathetic police take them to court and you want to do, take our word for it). have one furious music industry. As a result, legitimate music Athenian roads are not in the best of conditions and this is prices have been slashed during the last few years and you exacerbated by the complete lack of coordination between can now buy top-selling music from €5 (which is the same the different governmental departments and public utility as the price for a pirate copy!) companies that regularly carry out roadworks and drill into city streets. It is not rare to witness the electricity or water company men drilling into a street that has just had a new- The Greek alphabet asphalt layer applied only a week earlier! Cars are allowed into the city-centre (areas marked with a “Greek Delta” sign and called ‘Daktylios’) every second day, depending on their registration plates (odd number plates The Greek alphabet looks scary but once you learn on odd calendar days and even number plates accordingly). how to pronounce each letter and combination of This measure was introduced back in 1982, in order to tackle letters you can actually read Greek! Just give it a the increasing traffic and pollution problems of the time and few minutes and you’ll be surprised. has become completely outdated nowadays. The traffic in the centre cannot get any worse and although Αα alfa pronounced as in cat public transport keeps improving with the introduction of new Ββ beta as in vino metro stations and tram lines, Athenians are so enamoured Γγ gama as in yet of their cars that only a total ban would improve traffic condi- Δδ delta as in the tions (and would then, with mathematical precision, lead to Εε epsilon as in set a full-scale revolt). Ζζ zita as in zebra Parking in the city centre is regulated Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00, Ηη ita as in six Sat 09:00-16:00 and is allowed only on white lines. The Θθ theta as in theme ridiculously complicated pricing system is as follows: 50c for Ιι ghiota as in six the first half hour increasing by 50c for every subsequent half Κκ kapa as in key hour and up to two hours (€2). For two and a half hours you Λλ lamda as in love have to pay €4 and for three hours, which is the maximum Μμ mi as in man time allowed, €6. Blue lines are reserved for residents and Νν ni as in new yellow ones for public services and retail professionals. Ξξ ksi as in text If you prefer to opt for something simpler, this comes at a Οο omikron as in box price: Parking lots, over and under ground, are scattered Ππ pi as in power around the centre and start at €5 per hour up to a minimum Ρρ rho as in run of €15 for a whole day. Σσ sigma as in sun Ττ tau as in tea Υυ ipsilon as in six National Holidays Φφ fi as in fun Χχ chi as in hi Jan 1 New Year’s Day (Protochronia) Ψψ psi as in tips Jan 6 Epiphany (Theofania) Ωω omega as in box Feb 15 ( mov) Ash Monday (Kathari Deftera) Mar 25 Independence (Ikosti Pempti Martiou) Note that ita (η), giota (ι), ipsilon (υ) as well as (ει) Apr 24 (mov) Easter Sunday (Pascha) and (οι) are pronounced exactly the same. Apr 25 (mov) Easter Monday (Deftera Pascha) (ο) and (ω)are pronounced the same too, May 1 Labour Day (Protomagia) (ου) is pronounced oo, (αι) is pronounced e, (ευ) is Jun 13 (mov) Holy Spirit Monday (Agiou Pnevmatos) pronounced ev and (αυ) is pronounced av. Aug 15 Assumption of Virgin Mary (Dekapen- Once you remember the above, you can (with a little tavgoustos) practice) read everything written in Greek. As for Oct 28 1940 refusal to yield to the Axis understanding...that’s a whole different story and will Dec 25 Christmas Day (Christougenna) take some serious effort, practice and time. Dec 26 Boxing Day

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Basics basics 9

Olympic Games After being refused the centenary modern Olympics of 1996, Famous Greeks Athens was finally awarded the Games of 2004. Against all odds, and the international media who worked overtime for their respective governments, each outbidding the next in their efforts to sell overpriced and useless security systems, the city organised a wonderful and absolutely safe Olympiad that filled all Greeks with a sense of national solidarity and pride - and rightly so. This was, surely enough, before they were presented with the eight billion Euro bill, whereupon everyone came to the conclusion that the Olympics are no business for a small country like this one... Smoking: Banned, so what? Smoking in public buildings was of- ficially banned in Greece in July 2009. However, like everything else in this country, the ban was not a simple blanket measure for all. Establish- ments over 70 sqm were obliged to provide separate smoking rooms and owners of places under 70 sqm were free to decide whether theirs will be a smoking place or not! The results were satisfactory in most working places, but in wonderful Greece, laws rarely get in the way of people’s lives and most bars and many restaurants completely ignored the new law which became redundant in practice. This was the Eleftherios Venizelos (1864-1936) reason the government came back and announced that from September 1 2010 there will be a universal ban in all Considered by most as the greatest Greek of modern public places with an eight month transitional period just for times, he is the man who’s name you’ll encounter almost casinos and nightclubs. The signs so far are not good with everywhere: from the Athens International Airport to the entertainment industry resisting the ban, as they claim hundreds of streets all over the country. that amid the serious crisis the country is in, it will be the Born in Ottoman occupied , he studied law in Ath- final nail in their coffin. ens, took part in several revolutions and fought for the independence and union of Crete with Greece (1913). He was elected and served Stray dogs on and off between 1910-1920, 1924 and then 1928- Athens’ streets are littered with thousands of stray dogs, 1932. He established himself as the anti monarchist a fact that, according to animal welfare organisations, con- - republican pole in the Greek political scene and his con- stitutes bad publicity for the city. The truth is, however, that frontation with the royalists became so fierce at times, many of these animals are not abandoned in the streets but that led to the deep division of the nation known as the are actually born there and live in neighbourhoods where . During the WWI he insisted, against the people feed and water them on a daily basis. Just before king’s wish who wanted neutrality, that Greece entered the , most strays were rounded up by the the war on the side of the allies. Army officers loyal to authorities, vaccinated and sterilised, only to be placed right him, proclaimed a ‘Temporary Government of National back in their natural habitat, the streets. Most of them wear Defence’ based in Thessaloniki, the allies recognized collars and are harmless and quite friendly. them as the legitimate government of the country, the King went to self-exile and Greece entered the war. The Tipping country subsequently doubled its size with the liber- ated territories awarded by the allies under the Treaty Service charge is included in the bill in all restaurants and of Sèvres. Venizelos, despite his diplomatic success cafés but if you are pleased with the service it is customary (the creation of a ‘five seas and two continents’ state), to leave a few euros on the table. Ten percent is considered lost the elections of 1920, and his royalist opponents generous; something around five percent is the most continued the disastrous campaign deep in the Turkish common practice. Tipping is expected in most expensive lands that ended with the humiliation of the Greek army hotels and taxi drivers will round up the amount themselves and the complete destruction of the prosperous Greek when they give you the change, so you shouldn’t worry community of Smyrna and Asia Minor in 1922. about this! Venizelos was called back to sign the Treaty of which resulted in a massive exchange of populations and Visas the yield of certain territories to Turkey. There is no visa requirement to enter Greece for citizens The biggest achievement of his second period after 1928 of the E.U., Australia, Canada, Iceland, Israel, Japan, New was the improvement of the Greek-Turkish relations, Zealand, Norway, and the US. something that didn’t go down well among certain parts For a full list of countries exempt from visa requirements for of the population. A second assassination attempt and up to 90 days visit you can consult the Greek Foreign Ministry an unsuccessful anti-royalist coup led Venizelos to , where he died a few days after he suffered a stroke in March 1936. He was buried in Acrotiri, just outside his The Athens tel. code is +30 210 birthplace , Crete. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 10 history history

BC c.3000BC: Evidence of human habitation at the foot of the Acropolis hill in Athens. 2700-1450BC: The Minoan Civilisation flourishes in Crete and the Aegean, centred on the palaces at and Phaestus in Crete, with trade relations with Egypt and Syria. 1700-1100BC: Rise of the Mycenaean Civilisation. Myce- naean trade with Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean. Suc- cessive invasions of the Greek (Hellenic) Tribes: Achaeans, Aeolians, Ionians and Dorians. A royal fortress is built on the Athenian Acropolis. 1200BC: Upon his return to the city after slaying the Mi- notaur in Crete and rescuing Athenians held captive by King Minos, King Theseus unites the province of with Athens as its capital. Legend has it that he forgot to hoist the white sail to show his father, Aegeus, that he survived. In his grief, the old man hurled himself to his death in the sea which was later named the Aegean after him. 1100BC: The collapse of the Mycenaean Civilisation is fol- lowed by the Hellenic Dark Ages. Aeolian, Ionian and Dorian Greek colonisation of Asia Minor. c.1000BC: The city limits of Athens expand, construction of the first Agora. 8th century BC: Greeks found colonies around the Mediter- ranean basin. Rise of aristocracies throughout Greece. 776BC: The first Olympic Games in history, held at Olympia, Plato and Aristotle in ‘The School of Athens’ by Raphael mark the beginning of the Classical Greek period. 621BC: Dracon drafts strict new ‘draconian’ law code in Athens. 461-429BC: Named by historians ‘The Golden Age’ of A- c.600BC: Athens wins Salamis from neighbouring Megara thens. During this period, Athens establishes the Athenian (or and founds a colony, Sigeum, at the mouth of the Hel- Delian) League and takes control of a large number of Greek lespont. city-members of the League. Athens and its allies pursue an 594-593BC: Archonship of . First democratic reforms in offensive war against both the Persians and the Peloponne- Athens (cancellation of debts, replacement of birth by wealth sian League led by the Spartans. In 451BC, Athenians and as the criterion for office, creation of a people’s court). Spartans sign a five-year truce, which lasts until 446, where- 566BC: First Panathenaic Games held in Athens to honour upon begins the period known as the ‘Thirty Year Peace’. , goddess of Wisdom and patron-goddess of the During this period, Athens reached the peak of its prosperity. city. Democracy, science, , drama, architecture, scul- 561-560BC: Peisistratus seizes power and becomes pture, all flourished. The , among other architectural tyrant in Athens. masterpieces, is built between 447-437BC. c.530 BC: New temple of Athena built on the Acropolis. 438BC: Large chryselephantine (gold-and-ivory) statue of 510BC: Hippias, the son of Peisistratus, is overthrown from Athena set up in the Parthenon. the dictatorship in Athens with help from Sparta. Cleisthenes 431BC: The peace is broken with the onset of the Pelopon- takes charge in Athens. nesian War. Athens goes at war with Sparta once again. 508-507BC: Democratic reforms of Cleisthenes in Athens 430-428BC: The plague decimates a quarter of the popula- upheld by the ‘Ekklesia’ (public assembly of male Athenian tion of Athens, including . citizens with the right to vote at public hearings and elect 415BC:Athenian expedition sails to Sicily under Alcibi- magistrates). ades. 499BC: Beginning of the Persian wars with the revolt of 404BC: The end of the and Athens’ sur- the Ionian city-states against Darius. Athens sends a fleet render usher in Sparta’s hegemony in the Hellenic world. This in support of the Ionians. Darius pledges to avenge the is followed by a short period of Theban dominance. Athenians. 360BC: Philip II is crowned king of Macedon and the period 490BC: The Athenians block the Persian invasion with their of the kingdom’s dominance begins. victory in the battle of . Legend has it that Pheidip- 356BC: Alexander the Great, son of Philip II, is born in pides, an Athenian herald, ran from the battlefield back to Pella. Athens to announce the triumph with the word ‘nenikikamen’ 336BC: Philip dies and Alexander succeeds him as King (we won) and died on the spot. This story inspired the modern of Macedon. Marathon run. 334-323BC: Alexander is proclaimed King of all Hellenes 490-480BC: Extraction of silver ore from the mines at and embarks on the conquest of Persian lands, expanding Laurion, used for minting the Athenian silver ‘owl’ coins that his empire as far as Egypt and India. financed the expansion of Athens’ navy. 323BC: Alexander dies in Babylon and the Hellenistic 480BC: King Leonidas of Sparta, vastly outnumbered by Period begins. becomes dominant in the Hel- the Persian army under Xerxes, falls with his warriors in the lenic World. battle of Thermopylae. The Persians sack Athens but are 146BC: Greece becomes a province of the Roman Empire. badly defeated in the naval battle of Salamis. 86BC: Following Athens’ support to Mithridates, king of 479BC: Persians defeated at Plataea. Rebuilding of Athens Pontus, Sulla attacks the city. Athens loses all political begins, including the construction of linking the influence and is established as the capital of the city to the port of Piraeus. Roman province.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com history history 11 AD 1821: The Greek Revolution against Turkish occupation 54: The Apostle Paul visits Athens and delivers the Sermon begins. on Aeropagus Hill. 1827: The fleet of the mediating powers (France, Britain, 150: Herod Atticus becomes governor of Athens, constructs ) destroys the Turkish fleet at Navarino. End of Ottoman the theatre at the foot of the Acropolis that bears his name. Rule in Greece. 330: Constantine the Great transfers the capital of the Roman 1830: Greek sovereignty recognised under the Proto- Empire to Byzantium, which is renamed . The col. Nauplion becomes the first capital of independent Greece. is established. Before his death, Constantine 1831-1834: The assassination of the first governor of Greece, the Great establishes Christianity as the official religion of the , leads to the establishment of the mon- Byzantine Empire. archy by foreign powers. Bavarian King Otto I arrives in Greece 529: Philosophical academies closed by Emperor Justinian I, and Athens is established as the new capital. temples reconsecrated as Christian churches. 1838: The Royal Palace (now the House of Parliament) com- 1054: Schism between the Eastern Orthodox and (Western) pleted on Syntagma Square. Roman Catholic Churches. 1843: King Otto grants a constitution and representative As- 1204: Capture of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade by sembly, following popular uprisings. the Franks and Venetians. 1863: King Otto is dethroned and prince William of 1453: Sultan Mohammed II captures Constantinople. End of is crowned King of Greece under the name George I. He brings the Byzantine Empire. the as a coronation gift from Britain. 1456: Capture of Athens by Omar. 1866: Cretan uprisings against the Ottomans lead to war 1460-1715: Turks occupy all of Greece after continuous warfare between Greece and Turkey. with the Venetians. 1877: Prime Minister introduces measures 1687: Venetians lay siege to Athens under Morosini. The that limit the power of the monarchy to interfere in democratic Acropolis, which was used as a Turkish gunpowder store, is institutions. partially destroyed. 1896: The first modern Olympic Games held in Athens. 1801: Lord Elgin removes Parthenon marbles to London.

20th & 21st centuries

1910: Cretan politician Eleftherios Venizelos is elected intense fighting, the guerrillas surrender. prime minister of Greece. 1945: A period of persecution against anyone suspected as a 1912: . Greece, Serbia, Montenegro and communist drives thousands of people to the mountains. fight against the Ottomans. Greece obtains parts of 1947: A guerrilla army is put together in the mountains by Macedonia, and the north Aegean islands. the Communist Party and a bitter three-year civil war erupts. 1913: . Greece and Serbia fight against The Dodecanese islands are united with Greece, giving the Bulgaria. Crete unites with Greece. country its final shape. 1914: King Constantine insists that Greece remains neutral 1949: The National Army, with heavy support from the US, during the First World War. Venizelos wants to enter the war on drives back the guerrillas through the northern borders of the side of the Allies. The King flees the country and Greece Greece. More than 50,000 communists and their families enters the war. become political refugees behind the Iron Curtain. 1919: The Allies award Venizelos, being on the winners’ side, 1952: Greece joins NATO. with certain parts of Turkish and Bulgarian Thrace and the right 1962: Greece becomes the first associated member of the to place troops in the area of Smyrna on the Turkish coast, European Community. home to a large and prosperous Greek population. 1967: A group of middle ranking army officers seize power 1921: The Greek troops begin a massive campaign and and a seven-year dictatorship begins. King Constantine II advance towards Ankara. flees the country. Military junta led by Colonel Papadopoulos 1922: The resurgent Turkish army drives the Greeks back to rules Greece. the coast and Smyrna is burnt down on August 31. More than 1973: In November, an uprising of students in Athens against a million Greeks abandon their homes and become refugees the dictatorial regime, known as the Athens Polytechnic Upris- on the Greek mainland. There follows a massive exchange of ing, is crushed with bullets and tanks. populations between Greece and Turkey, based on religious 1974: A coup in results in Turkish invasion and oc- faith, under the Treaty of Lausanne. cupation of the northern part of the island. Military regime 1940: After occupying Albania, Italy demands the right of pas- collapses in Athens. A Republic is proclaimed by referendum. sage through Greece. Greeks respond to the Italian ultimatum Presidential democracy adopted. with a single word, “No”, on October 28. Greek troops repel the 1981: Greece becomes the tenth member of the European Italian forces into the Albanian mountains, advancing towards Community. Albania during the winter. 1985: Athens becomes Europe’s first Cultural Capital. 1941: In April, Germany invades Greece and the country is 2002: Greece joins the Euro zone and abandons the drachma occupied by German, Italian and Bulgarian forces. The great after 167 years. famine of the winter of 1941 leaves more than 40,000 dead, 2004: Greece successfully organises the Olympic Games. mainly in Athens and other major cities. Greeks take to the 2009: Centre-left PASOK party wins the national elec- mountains, form resistance groups and declare a ‘Free Greece’ tions and Giorgos Papandreou becomes Grecce’s Prime on the inaccessible mountainous mainland. Minister. 1944: The last Wermacht soldier departs from Athens on 2010: , is elected President of the Re- October 12. Greek and British troops enter the liberated public for a second five year term. capital. In December, fighting breaks out in the streets of 2011: Lucas Papademos, ex central banker, becomes Prime Athens between communist supported resistance groups and Minister of Greece head of an interim coalition government the National Army supported by the British. After a month of athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 12 Districts of Athens districts of athens

Athens in two days Plaka E5,E6,F6 Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Mitropoleos Streets. MSyntagma, . This is what Athens has to offer as an old town, a district most visitors feel obliged (and rightly so) to pass through at least once, but few Athenians visit for their entertainment needs. Countless tourist shops, selling kitsch ancient replicas and tasteless souvenirs and many moussaka-restaurants, most dating back to the 1970s, give the visitor a cliched and somehow false view of Athens. However, if you wander off the beaten track, through its picturesque and serene meandering streets leading up to the Acropolis, you can discover a plethora of architectural gems giving a unique feel of the city at the beginning of the twentieth century, as well as discovering many small museums to keep you occupied for hours. The old neighbourhood of ‘Anafiotica’ just under the Acropolis rock will give you a déjà-vu of your last Greek island holiday, right in the centre of Athens. Day One: Start your day early in Syntagma Square. See the H4,H5,I5 Bordered by: Vassilisis Sofias, Akadimias changing of the guard in front of the House of Parlia- Streets and Lycabettus hill.MSyntagma. ment (on the hour) and walk along Amalias Avenue. Anyone who is (or thinks he is) anyone, lives or hangs around Enter the National Gardens, pass and head (Filikis Eterias Square). The Athenian élite of towards the . Walk down Vasilis- politicians, high profile journalists, actors, models and power- sis Olgas Avenue, pass Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple ful businessmen, together with idle non-working residents of Olympian Zeus and cross to Plaka. Allow yourself who spend their days in the numerous posh cafés and restau- to wander around its picturesque meandering streets rants, mingle, show off and decide the future of the country. and stop for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés. All the expensive fashion boutiques are based here, and the Walk along pedestrianised Dionisiou Areopagitou street, nightlife is designed to please the above-mentioned crowds, climb the Acropolis hill and enjoy the pride of western civilisation. Once you’re done with the sacred rock head as well as visitors who come here from the rest of Athens to to the new before you stop for get a taste of the high life. Beach attire, large groups of lads a late lunch-Greek style somewhere around Thissio and the matching attitude should be avoided, if you wish to station. Afternoon is time to visit with its pass through the strict ‘face control’ of the bouncers and ancient cemetery, the Ancient Agora and the bustling spend a night among Athens’ ‘beautiful people’. and quaint Monastiraki Flea Market. Have an aperitif at nearby Psirri district and round off the evening with a late dinner accompanied by live Greek music, or head to Gazi Gazi where you can combine dinner with late drinks. A4 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Konstantinoupoleos Streets. M Kerameikos. Day Two: The top nightlife hot spot of the capital, characterised by the Begin the day at the top end of Ploutarchou Street in old factory that used to produce gas for lighting the streets Kolonaki, from where you will board the scenic funicular and houses of the city many decades ago. Fortunately, the (runs every half hour €7) or walk the lovely pine-lined Municipality of Athens preserved the old factory building pedestrianised path up Lycabettus hill (about 300m). and transformed it into the ‘’ cultural centre Take in the breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the where concerts, exhibitions and festivals take place. With panorama of Athens and the sprawled the completion of Kerameikos metro station in 2007, the at your feet. Seize the opportunity to visit the historic area took off and it is now a top choice for entertainment white-washed church of Saint George crowning the hill among young Athenians. A good number of gay bars and before taking the funicular back down. Make your way clubs have given the homosexual community of Athens a to Panepistimio station and board the metro to Victoria, night-time destination, although one cannot describe Gazi from where you will cross to the National Archaeologi- as a gay district. cal Museum. Allow at least two hours for your visit, be- fore stopping for a light lunch at the Museum restaurant or at one of the numerous Bohemian establishments Exarchia F2,G2,H2 Bordered by: Asklipiou, Akadimias, Patision lining Exarchia Square. Board the metro to Syntagma (October 28th) Streets. MOmonia. station, where you will change to the Tram that will take you down to Athens’ southern coastal suburbs. Enjoy Neighbouring Kolonaki but at the exact opposite end of your leisurely ride, taking in the golden sea views along the spectrum, this is the traditional alternative corner of the way. Get off at ‘Parko Flisvou’ stop in Paleo Faliro Athens inhabited by old Athenians and frequented by young and walk along the seaside palm-lined esplanade, stop- Bohemian intellectuals, leftists, students, rockers and an- ping off for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés (we archists. The nightlife here is excellent, and as you’d expect recommend a freddocinno!). Enjoy lounging at the beach a lot more relaxed and laid back. Nobody cares about what before taking the Tram back to downtown Athens and you wear or who you are. The old days’ frequent riots are rounding the day off with dinner somewhere around now rare (with the exception of December 2008) but there Monastiraki Station with its numerous lively live-music is always a refreshing revolutionary feeling to make restless establishments or, if posh dining is more up your street, minds feel at home. head to Kolonaki. athens.inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Districts of Athens districts of athens 13

Psirri D4 Bordered by Athinas, Ermou, Pireos, Evripidou Streets. MMonastiraki, Thissio. This neighbourhood of narrow streets, workshops, ware- houses and wholesale shops of every kind, established itself as the ‘Soho’ of Athens about fifteen years ago. (Since then, this title has been variously attributed to each new nightlife hub that springs up in previously deprived areas). Countless bars, clubs, theatres, restaurants and cafés catered for mixed crowds but the area has been in a steady decline as a nightlife destination, as the masses started to move elsewhere. The food is generally average, with some exceptions. Restaurants with live Greek music A view from the Acropolis AIYP often charge higher prices than the quality of their food justifies, but if you want to experience dancing and singing Thissio the Greek way, do enter any of them on a Saturday evening, B5,C5,C6 Bordered by , Hill, or a Sunday afternoon. Ancient Agora, MThissio. One of the oldest districts of Athens. The Acropolis towering Omonia Square above and its many neoclassical buildings preserve the aura and the area west of Athinas & September 3rd of a bygone era. Walk around the Ancient Agora and Philopap- Streets. D2,D3,E2,E3 MOmonia. pou hill, soak up the atmosphere of the cradle of western This central square is the Balkan face of Athens. Buzzing civilisation, imagine Socrates conversing with his disciples on and ugly, gritty and colourful, its working class crowds these very same grounds and attune yourself to the rhythm mingle with immigrants, street traders, lottery ticket sellers of life of modern city-dwellers sipping their indispensable and, occasionally, weird and suspicious figures. If you head ‘frappé’ (iced coffee the Greek way) at one of the countless towards the back streets to the west of the square you’ll outdoor cafés directly facing the Sacred Rock. find yourself in the Athenian version of a China town, where other predominant nationalities are Pakistanis and Africans. A few surviving neoclassical buildings come as a welcome Makrigianni contrast to the concrete of the square, the looks of which E7,E8 Bordered by the Acropolis, Philopappou hill, most Athenians hated as soon as it was reconstructed a Syngrou Ave. MAcropolis.A district overwhelmed by six- few years ago. ties blocks of flats (like most of Athens of course) with some forgotten neoclassical treasures amongst them, Makrigianni hasn’t so far had very much to offer the visitor except its proximity to the ancient monuments and some tourist shops and restaurants. That was true until the New Acropolis Mu- seum, the pride and joy of the capital, finally opened its doors last year transforming the district into one of the foremost attractions for visitors and Athenians alike

Commercial triangle (Historic Centre) E4,E5,F4,F5 Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou St. MMonastiraki, Syntagma, Panepistimio. A complex of narrow streets lined with shops selling every- thing you can imagine, this is the traditional shopping heart of the city. It used to be dead quiet in the evenings, but when neighbouring Psirri started becoming saturated with nightspots of all kinds, entertainment entrepreneurs took the opportunity to cross and liven up this historic part of the capital. The establishments in this area of town tend to maintain a certain individuality and character and target more selective audiences. Metaxourgio B3,C3 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Achilleos Streets. MKerameikos. This is the latest up and coming area of the capital, with a new bar, restaurant or art venue appearing every few days. Like many other European cities, Athens is gradu- ally rediscovering its neglected and forsaken districts of ill repute and transforming them into night-time hot spots. The shoddy brothels still operate here around the clock, but, at night, the fashionable crowds of the capital reclaim the neighbourhood. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 14 budget athens Survival guide

Koulouri AIYP Learn Greek Athens for free You can follow a language course complete with audio files Accomodation exercises etc at: www.ellinika.org and www.xanthi.ilsp. There are hundreds of Athenians happy to offer you their gr/filog. The lessons start at beginner level. couch on www.couchserfing.com and www.hospi- talityclub.org All you have to do is register, contact the person whose profile you find most interesting and book Athens for little your tickets. Food Museums Souvlaki-gyros and its variations, apart from obligatory Admission in all the state run museums and archaeological while you’re in Athens, is a nutritious and balanced meal and sites is free every Sunday between November and the first probably the easiest thing to find during your wanders in the Sunday of April. Admission is free every day in the War streets of the capital. For the places we recomend see page Museum, the Postal and Philatelic Museum, the Rail 41. Koulouri is a simple bread & sesame snack that you’ll Museum, the museum of Traditional Musical Instru- find sold in every street of Athens for €0.50-0.60. It makes ments and the . a perfect breakfast that will keep you going till lunch and it Going out and entertainment is best enjoyed fresh early in the morning. In www.forfree.gr and www.tzaba.gr you’ll find every free Drink event that takes place during the week in the city, and ideas Street kiosks (periptera) sell beer for about €1 per can. on how to do things without spending a penny. The web sites Alternatively supermarkets (open till 21:00 weekdays, are in Greek only but http://babelfish.yahoo.com produces 20:00 Saturdays) sell spirits for €10-13 per bottle, good very good translations for both. Greek wines start from as little as €5 and beer comes even Internet cheaper from €0.40. A large part of the centre of Athens is covered by a public Shop wifi network free for all to access. Areas around Syntagma American markets (pg.70) are very popular among young- Square, Thissio metro station and are sters, students and those who prefer individuality to mass all covered and during the winter of course you won’t see production clothes. Chinese shops: It is most probable many people sitting on the benches with their laptops so that your clothes are made in China anyway, but if you opt access is faster. to cut the middleman (the western brand label that is) and Phonecalls buy directly, there are dozens of Chinese shops around If you feel like a long chat with your granny down-under the Koumoundourou Sq, (map C4) where you can pick jeans free phone service offered in ‘The Mall’ shopping centre is straight from the cardboard box for a tenner. probably worth the 30 minutes metro ride to Nerantziotisa Students station (old metro line). A telecoms company offers free The international student card ISIC can get you into most mu- promotional VoIP calls to most countries of the world. seums with a discount up to 50% (sometimes even for free). Find the red phone boxes near the entrance of the shopping Many businesses too offer discounts to card holders. centre but avoid Saturdays.

Athens In Your Pocket budget athens Survival guide 15

Protesters in the centre of Athens Avoid hot spots Surviving the strikes The angry riots that have filled the world’s TV screens are the exception, not the rule, and are generally limited to a few key o, you’ve made it to the city that gave birth to democracy ignition points. The whole city is not in turmoil when BBC or Smore than 2,000 years ago. That in itself is a good CNN show protestors hurling stones and street furniture at riot start. It means that no air traffic controllers, port workers police lined up in front of parliament. Just a few blocks away, or other disgruntled group has conspired to prevent your it’s business as usual with people serenely sipping coffee and arrival. Welcome! reading the paper in street cafes. The main hot spot to avoid when outrage is in the air is Syntag- Looking around, you may be a little surprised. The news ma Square - the front yard of Greece’s Parliament, and where headlines have prepared you for a city in uproar, pulsating the ‘Indignados of Athens’ have gathered in mostly peaceful with protestors and police, and a country crippled by con- protest since late May. It has also been the scene of occasional stant strikes. Instead, the scents of souvlaki and jasmine clashes with police when a small minority gets physical. on balconies are stronger than any residual whiff of tear Staff at your hotel should be able to give you an idea of what gas. The trains, buses and trams are filled with Athenians areas to avoid. on their way to work every morning. Folk in shops still smile and are as hospitable as ever. Greek society has not im- Plan B ploded. Life goes on. Flexibility is key. When a strike scuppers your plans, consider the alternatives. Industrial action and noisy protests have featured strongly If you turn up at the Metro station to find the shutters rolled on Greece’s political stage for months now. But strikes – down, think about taking the bus or tram instead, as it is rare be they for a few hours, a few days, or even weeks – have for the entire public transport network to be closed at the same always been part of the way of life here. They’re as Greek time. The Athens Urban Transport Organisation (OASA) website as ouzo and summer sunshine. Even before the threat of – www.oasa.gr – has information in Greek and English. radical changes and austerity measures in a bid to solve the If you do find yourself stuck in the centre, take to the streets. country’s financial woes stirred up discontent, stoppages Athens is a city best seen by foot, and has a myriad of cafes and downtown demos were a regular feature of city life. and snack bars when you can stop to quench your thirst and consult your map. A day exploring the small back streets Locals take it all in their stride, and use their wits to make can reveal some delights that you would never discover on a mere inconvenience from what some might consider a a planned tour. disaster. So, here are some tips on how to minimise the If you arrive at Piraeus eager to board your ferry for a day on impact of any strikes during your visit. one of the islands in the Saronic Gulf, only to find they’re not operating, don’t despair. Just hop onto a tram heading along Stay informed the coast road. You’ll get a stately ride in a classily-designed A little bit of knowledge can save a whole day of heartache. air-conditioned carriage, with charming views of Athens’ sea- Most strikes are announced in advance. In addition to TV side suburbs, and you’re bound to find a beach worthy of your and radio news, many Athenians rely on Greek-language towel along the way. websites like apergies.gr for regular updates, and reliable English information can also be found online. Check out But if you’re an adrenaline junkie who’s been lured to Athens by livingingreece.gr/strikes or the English pages of Greek daily the scent of danger, just head for the nearest protest and start newspapers like www.ekathimerini.com. loudly expressing your views about lazy Greeks who want to If you are staying at a hotel, just ask the front desk staff carry on riding the gravy train at Europe’s expense. That’s one about any strikes that might disrupt your plans. sure-fire way to experience Greek passion first hand.

athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 16 Day trip: Delphi SkiS kiaround around A Athensthens

Archaeological site These days Delphi is a small touristy village 180 km from Athens, built on the top of a cliff, next to the main archaeo- logical site on the slopes of mount Parnassos. There is an impressive 2300 sqm museum (first built in 1903 – last reno- vated in 1999) housing findings from the local excavations that started by German archaeologists in 1892. The main highlights of the museum are offerings by the oracle visitors to express their gratitude, the famous Charioteer of Delphi and of course ‘Omfalos’ the sculptured religious stone that represented the Navel of the World. The archaeological site consists of the Temple of Apollo - the centre of the oracle and the seat of Pythia (built in the 4th century BC on the site of the original temple), as well as various treasuries built by Greek cities to host their gifts to Apollo. There is also a sta- dium high on the hill, an ancient theatre that can seat 5,000 with a wonderful view of the valley and Delphi’s best known landmark (and a favourite for photographers), the Tholos, a circular building with three of its original twenty Doric columns restored, part of the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia.” How to get there

Tholos, the landmark of Delphi

If you can’t get enough of ancient ruins during your stay in Athens, you should take a day off your sightseeing and head to Delphi, one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece and a hugely popular day trip among Athens visitors. History In Greek mythology Delphi The best way to get to Delphi is by car. Take the national was the place where two motorway to and at the Kastro junction (110 km) eagles released by Zeus to turn left to Orchomenos and Levadia and follow the road fly across the universe met signs to Delphi. In the village you will find numerous cafes and determined the Navel of and restaurants catering to the hundreds of day visitors. the World. A major temple Alternatively you can head for Amfissa, a tranquil little dedicated to Apollo and town with a small archaeological museum, or Itea a lovely his victory over the terrible seaside village where you can enjoy fresh fish and seafood serpent Python was built in one of its many tavernas by the sea. If you have time on there in 7th century BC. The your way back stop at nearby Arachova, a base for the local oracle was a religious skiers visiting Parnassos slopes (see opposite page). The centre where pilgrims, com- picturesque town is riddled with flashy clothes shops, trendy moners and kings alike from bars, tavernas and during weekends, traffic similar to that all over Greece came to of the centre of Athens. consult Pythia on important If you’re not up for driving, there is a regular intercity bus or everyday matters, like service from Athens KTEL station. Finally you can opt for an whether to go to war with a organised tour. See our travel agents listing (pg 58) rival city, or about family and personal affairs. Pythia the Info priestess of the sanctuary mumbled her infamously KTEL Bus Station: Liosion 260. tel. +30 210 8317096 ambiguous oracles in a From Athens: 07:30, 10:30, 13:00, From Delphi: 16:00, state of intoxication and 18:00 and on Sundays 21:00. Tickets cost €13.60 the other priests translated one way. The Charioteer them in a way that could Museum and Site: tel. +30 22650 82346, +30 22650 accommodate opposite 82313 Open: daily 08:30-15:00, Good Friday 08:30- interpretations. One of the most famous oracles was given 12:00, closed on public holidays (see our Basics pages). to Croesus when he asked if he should go to war with the Separate tickets for the museum and the archaeological Persians. The answer was “if you go to war you will destroy site cost €6 each (concessions €3). A combined ticket a great empire”. The oracle turn out to be right, except it was will get you into both for €9 (concessions €5) his own empire that he destroyed.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Day trip: Delphi SkiS kiaround around A Athensthens 17

Karpenisi (1840m)

Karpenisi ski centre is 284km away from Athens and 11km away from the town of Karpenisi. It is a small centre but popular nonetheless as visitors can combine sports with visits to the beautiful mountain villages of the region that resembles the Alps. There are 6 lifts in total and 11 slopes. There is a ski school, equipment rental shop, restaurant, cafe and a chalet with an accommodation capacity of 100 persons (tel.2237-22002). If you drive, take the national motorway to Thessaloniki and turn to Karpenisi, or take the KTEL bus to Karpenisi from Athens central station (tel. 210 - 8315919) Daily pass €20 (w/e), €12 (weekdays), Seasonal card €180 tel. (+30) 22370 Obviously one cannot claim that Greece is the ultimate 23 506, www.cybex.gr/karpenissi European ski destination. It is a fact though that its versatile landscape with high mountains (there are more than 50 peaks in Greece with an altitude higher than 2000 m) actually allows for a fair share of winter fun mainly between January Pilio (1470m) and March. There are 21 ski resorts in the country, and more than half Pilio is one of the most beautiful Greek mountains, home offer decent standards even for the most demanding and to the mythical creature Kentavros and it is worth visiting experienced skier. for a weekend even if you are not a skier. It boasts dozens Most of them are naturally located in northern Greece but there of picturesque villages - most of which have stunning are a few very easily accessible from Athens ideal for a skiing views of the Aegean Sea, the Pagasetic Gulf and the weekend or even just for a day’s escape from the city. seaside town of at the foot of the mountain, and offer plenty of good accommodation and nightlife. The centre is 27 km from Volos and 330 km from Athens Parnassos (1600 - 2250m) (take the national motorway to Thessaloniki if you drive, or KTEL bus to Volos from Athens central station every two hours .Tel. (+30) 210 8329585). There are six slopes ranging between 250m for beginners to 5000m with a total length of 12 km and six lifts. A number of winter sports are also available like snowboarding and cross country skiing. A restaurant, a cafe and a skiing school operate at the centre as well as a chalet for those who prefer accommodation on the spot. A day pass costs €15, (children €10) and the cost for renting the equip- ment is €15 for a full set. Lessons cost €40 per hour per person and €25 per hour for two. tel. (+30) 2428 074048 www.skipilio.gr

Kalavrita (1700m) This is the largest, most organised and popular ski resort in the country. There are 2 main locations Fterolaka and Kellaria and a total of 20 slopes and 14 lifts. The distance from the capital is only 180 km making it a popular day destination for Athenian skiers. Slopes range from easy-beginner level to difficult for experienced ski- ers and cross country, with lengths between 50m and 4 km. There are cafes, a restaurant, ski and snowboard schools, an equipment rental shop and baby sitting facilities. The most convenient way to get to Parnassos is by car. Drive to Levadia and follow the signs to Ara- chova and then the ski centre. The best place to look for accommodation is Arachova, a picturesque little town that comes alive in the winter with skiers and celebrity ‘exiles’ from the island of Mykonos. Excellent night life, restaurants, shops and plenty of traditional hotels make This is the only ski resort in the Peloponese, a trendy Arachova a good weekend destination even if you don’t winter weekend destination for young Athenians. It is ski. If you opt to use public transportation take the located on Mt Helmos 14 km from the pretty and historic KTEL (intercity) bus from Athens central station (every town of Kalavrita and 203 km from Athens. Apart from 2 hours tel.210 8317096). Day passes for the slopes the 12 slopes of all levels and the seven lifts, the centre cost between €10 - €30 depending on the day of the offers a complete set of winter activities like snowboard- week and whether all lifts and slopes are operational. ing, trecking, snowmobiles, paragliding, etc Prices for a tel.(+30)2234022693, (+30) 22340-22373, www. day pass vary between €15 - €25 and there are weekly parnassos-ski.gr (€70) and seasonal (€350) passes available. tel.(+30) 2692024451, www.kalavrita-ski.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 18 Where to stay Where to stay

during turbulent times and from its balconies, the foreign Hotel Listings Policy press has watched and reported on every important event of modern Greek history. Needless to describe its amenities, thens offers its visitors a comprehensive range if you can afford the bill you can find out for yourself. What we Aof accommodation, as you‘d expect from a city of need to point out is its Spa, which is definitely worth one of its size. your Athens days, and will only set you back a few hundred The Olympic Games of 2004 gave its hotel industry a euros… Q 321 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €250-400, Suites: radical overhaul, many new hotels were built and most €500-€5000. PTJHAR6UFGBKDCW existing ones underwent complete renovation. hhhhh Although accommodation is ample, Athens‘ hotels are not cheap and hoteliers seem to prefer lower occupancy rates at higher prices. Over €150 In Your Pocket will not stop crying out that Athens is in Electra Palace F6, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, MSyntag- desperate need of reasonably priced accommodation ma, tel. (+30) 210 3370000, fax (+30) 210 3241875, at all levels and our list of recommendations is primarily [email protected], www.electra-hotels.com. based on the premise of the fairness of prices charged All time classic luxury in the heart of Plaka. You’ll certainly feel you’re worth a bob or two once you pass the front door. No hi-tech extravagances in the standard rooms and small bathrooms are marked down as a negative, but you can always book a suite with living room, LCD TV and balcony Cream of the Crop with a startling view of Plaka. The spectacular indoor pool Athens Hilton K5, Vas. Sofias 46, MEvangelismos, tel. and fitness centre will certainly make up for potential bad (+30) 210 7281000, fax (+30) 210 7281111, reserva- weather and keep you in shape. Q 154 rooms. Singles: tions.athens@hiltoncom, www.hiltonathens.gr. Need we €150-200,Doubles: €160-250, Superior rooms: €295-450. mention that panache and elegance are synonymous with the PTJHAFLGBKDCW hhhhh word Hilton? Built in 1963, it wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that governments have risen and fallen in this build- O&B Boutique C4, Leokoriou 7, Psirri, MThissio, tel. ing. Recently, it underwent a total refurbishment adopting a (+30) 210 3312950, fax (+30) 210 3312942, reserve@ minimal style without abandoning its true Hilton character. oandbhotel.com, www.oandbhotel.com. One of the city’s Heads of state and top celebrities love the presidential suite favourite small hotels has just doubled in size, remaining how- overlooking the city. Any type of conference or meeting can ever small enough for the personalised service and top hospi- be held here, hosting from 10 to 1200 people. An immense tality its owners take pride in offering their guests. The subtle fitness centre, a beauty salon, barber’s shop, cigar store, luxury, minimal decoration and calm atmosphere O&B has newsagent and jewelry store all at your service. And if you been known for have been carefully preserved and the guests feel you’re carrying the weight of the world on your shoulders, now have a large choice of accommodation ranging from a you can wind down in the silent room, a place of complete standard double up to the ‘Acropolis Grand Suite’. Internet is relaxation. Q 524 rooms. Singles: €160-250, Doubles: of course free-of-charge. Q 22 rooms, Doubles: €190-210, €180-400. PTJHAR6UFLBKDCW Suites: €300-550. PTJALGKW hhhh hhhhh Semiramis Charilaou Trikoupi 48, Kifisia, tel. (+30) 210 Classical King George Palace G5, Vasileos Georgiou 6284400, fax (+30) 210 6284449, info@semiramisa- 3, Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210/ thens.com, www.semiramisathens.com. If you are willing (+30) reserv.210 3443590, fax (+30) 210 3250504, to exchange central location for a stay in a truly exceptional [email protected], www.classicalhotels. hotel and pop design is your cup of tea, then look no further com. A member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ and than Semiramis. Located in the leafy and posh northern one of the distinguished Syntagma Sq trio. If you have a few suburb of Kifisia 15 km from the centre of the city, owned by thousand euros to spare, go for the 350 sqm Royal Penthouse an art collector and designed by Karim Rashid, no less, this Suite and impress your companion beyond any expectation. hotel is a temple of modern living. An outright riot of colours The suite occupies the hotel’s entire ninth floor and boasts and shapes complemented by top class facilities will tempt of a terrace with a private swimming pool, a jacuzzi and a you to spend your entire holiday inside the hotel! Q 51 rooms. wonderful Parthenon view which is included in many of those Singles / Doubles: €180-300, Bungalows / Suite: €350-600. international lists compiled for the rich and privileged of this PTHARFLBKDCW hhhhh world. Tudor Hall, the 7th floor French restaurant, remains a prominent member of the Athenian dining elite. Q 102 rooms, Singles/Doubles: €180-400, Suites: €500-10,000. €100-150 PTJHARUFGBKDCW hhhhh Ava F7, Lysikratous 9-11, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 Grande Bretagne G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, 3259000, fax (+30) 210 3259001, [email protected], tel. (+30) 210 333000/(+30) 210 3228034, info@ www.avahotel.gr. Ava hotel has just been renovated and grandebretagne.gr, www.grandebretagne.gr. This his- the impressive result puts it among the top four star hotels toric hotel occupies probably the most expensive piece of in the capital. It offers suites of different sizes that can ac- commercial property in the country. Pure luxury, grandeur and commodate a whole family. Probably the only hotel in Athens splendour consistently place GB in every kind of ‘top hotels offering a unique combination of luxurious accommodation of the world’ list. Most impressive, though, is the list of its and facilities to prepare your own meals, as all suites have famous guests, more or less all the important people who their own fully equipped kitchenette. Internet is free of charge, have visited Athens since the hotel was built back in 1874: there are blue ray dvd players and ambi light tv sets in every Winston Churchill, Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis and...Naomi room, and the front balconies face both the Acropolis rock Campbell, as well as countless kings, queens and heads of and Hadrian’s Gate. Q 15 rooms, Doubles: €130-160, state have in the past slipped between its crisp sheets. Triples: €140-170, 4persons: €230-270, 5persons: €250- The hotel has housed governments and occupying forces 280. PTJAUGBW hhhh

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Where to stay Where to stay 19

Electra F5, Ermou 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3378000, [email protected],, www.electra- Symbol key hotels.com. This 4-star establishment is the ideal choice P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted for those looking to spend their holidays shopping. Situated on Ermou street, the country’s top commercial thoroughfare, E Live music S Take away this hotel has always been regarded as a meeting point for Athenians. In this 9-storey building you’ll be offered basic T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled luxury and a good vantage point from which to gaze down at passing crowds. If you have some extra euros to spare, ask G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking for a suite with a French style Rococo balcony with a view of Lycabettus Hill. Q 106 rooms. Singles: €110-200, Doubles: O Casino M Nearest station €120-250. PTJHAFLKW hhhh R Internet 6 Animal friendly Eridanus C4, Pireaus 78, tel. (+30) 210 5205360, fax (+30) 210 5200550, [email protected], www. D Sauna C Swimming pool eridanus.gr. One of the top small hotels in the city, in the hot nightspot zone of Gazi. It is named after an ancient waterway of Athens, and is singled out for its unique indoor design and Melia Athens F2, Chalkokondili 14, MOmonia, tel. modern decoration. Hermes bathroom sets, free Internet (+30) 210 3320100, [email protected], access, as many beverages as you can drink and hydro- www.melia-athens.com. A luxury hotel nearest the Na- massage in every room are some of the details that make tional Archaeological Museum. This modern hotel is housed the difference. Try out the fitness centre, with a sauna and a in one of the city’s old buildings, which somehow survived hamam. A non-smoking wing is also available. An excellent, its unattractive replacements of the late 60s. The fitness value for money, highly recommended hotel. Q 38 rooms. centre, hamam and sauna are free of charge and the rooms Standard: €120-170, Acropolis view: €150-190, Suites: €200- are elegant and attractive. Safety freaks have finally found 350. PTJHAFLGKDW hhhhh their haven, as all rooms have a safety door that isolates the bedrooms in case of fire. Q 126 rooms, 10 suites. Singles/ Golden Age K5, Michalakopoulou 57, MMegaro Doubles: €90-140, Suites: €220. PTJHARUIF� Mousikis, tel. (+30) 210 7240861-9, fax (+30) 210 GBKDCW hhhhh 7213965, [email protected], www.gold- enage.gr. It is worth going for one of its two executive Park Hotel Alexandras Av. 10, MVictoria, tel. (+30) 210 suites: Glass roofs and large verandas, minimal decoration 8894500, [email protected], www.athensparkho- and the impressive night city view through its large windows, tel.gr. Being next to greenery in Athens is a huge privilege and will make you feel as if you spent a lot more on your accom- Park Hotel stands right opposite one of the biggest parks in modation. The standard rooms offer comfortable accom- the centre of the city (). Renovated in 2010, it modation too and balconies completely separated from offers its guests all five star luxuries with a rooftop swimming each other, with a high degree of privacy. Overall, a good, pool, an excellent fitness centre and the brand new Gallo Nero modern and reasonably priced business hotel that will do all day restaurant where you can enjoy delicious Italian cuisine fine for your holiday too. Q 122 rooms. Singles/Doubles : and fine wines from Tuscany. Rooms are tastefully decorated €90-120. PTJHAR6UKW hhhh and feature all the necessary five star amenities. The ‘must see’ archaeological museum is a mere three minutes walk Hera E8, Falirou 9, MAcropolis/(+30) 210 9236682, from your bed. Q 150 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €100-170, fax (+30) 210 9238269,, [email protected], www. Suites: from €170. PTJHARUFLBKDCW herahotel.gr. If Greek god Zeus’s companion were a hotel, hhhhh she’d probably be as attractive as this small boutique hotel. The 38-room establishment is located in a typical early Periscope I4, Haritos 22, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel. 20th century Athenian building, right across from the New (+30) 210 7297200, [email protected], www.peri- Acropolis Museum. A lovely roof garden and restaurant is an scope.gr. An ultra stylish hi-tech small hotel in the smart excellent alternative to going out if you feel a little tired one neighbourhood of Kolonaki. Rooms are grey and minimally evening. Breakfast will brighten up your day, thanks to a glass decorated with coloured details, the ceilings are covered with roof in the breakfast room. Visitors are mainly holidaymakers photographs of Athens and there is a penthouse suite with and businessmen looking for an elegant and well-placed a private jacuzzi and panoramic views of the city. Views that hotel. Q 38 rooms, Singles: €100-130, Doubles: €110- can be enjoyed 24 hours even from the lounge downstairs on 170, Suites: €200-250. PTJHAULGBKCW the flat screens connected to the rooftop periscope. Wi-Fi hhhh Internet is free. Q 22 rooms, Singles: €150-170, Doubles: €165-190. PTJARFW hhhh Herodion D7, Rovertou Gali 4, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9236832-6, fax (+30) 210 9211650, herodion@ President Kifisias 43, MAmpelokipoi, tel. (+30) 210 herodion.gr, www.herodion.com. One of the best roof 6989000, [email protected], www.president. gardens in Athens. Wooden floors, jasmine and olive trees gr. A mammoth 20 storey Athenian landmark, featuring a large and two jacuzzis looking towards the Acropolis. You can reception area with a distinct good old fashioned jet-set atmo- almost reach out and touch the Parthenon. Americans and sphere. Avenue bar, a meeting point even for non-residents, Australians love it here and and now the New Acropolis Mu- stays open until 02:00, quite often with live music. The roof seum has opened just around the corner, this hotel looks set top Penthouse bar and swimming pool will add a cosmopolitan to become a definite meeting-point for Greeks and visitors touch to your stay while you’ll have a true 360 degrees view of alike Q 90 rooms, Singles: € 90-120, Doubles: €100-150, the city skyline. Q 516 rooms. Singles: €90-110, Doubles: Triples: €160-230. PTJHAIGBKW hhhh €100-120. PTJHARUEGBKCW hhhh

For more hotel reviews check out: inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 20 Where to stay Where to stay

Royal Olympic F8, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, MA- a warm welcoming ambiance, no doubt, so will you. Q 22 cropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400, info@royalolympic. rooms. Singles: € 75-90, Doubles: € 90-110, Family: € 200. com, www.royalolympic.com. A large central five star PTJARILGW hhhh hotel located very close to most top Athenian sights. The Acropolis museum and Plaka are only a few steps away Acropolis Select E8, Fallirou 37-39, Makrigianni, tel. and the front rooms face directly the Temple of Zeus. The (+30) 210 9211611, fax (+30) 210 9216938, select3@ facade stands out as it combines a modern glass surface otenet.gr, www.acropoliselect.gr. This is a decent three with ancient architecture elements and the facilities on offer star hotel housed in a typical seventies building, more im- are excellent and include a swimming pool, a library, a gym pressive once you walk in. Tasteful and low key decor as well and Ioannis, the brand new rooftop restaurant set to impress as helpful and professional staff guarantee a pleasant stay the Athenian gourmet lovers this summer . Q 230 rooms. for those not looking for swimming pools and spa services Singles / Doubles: €125 - 200. PTJHARUI� but good value for money accommodation instead. Some FLBKCW hhhhh rooms boast large verandas, an extra definitely worth ask- ing for. The location is very convenient too, just two minutes The Athenian Callirhoe F8, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, from the metro and within walking distance to the Acropolis MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9215353, fax (+30) 210 and Plaka. Q 72 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €60-100. 9215342, [email protected], www.tac.gr. Ideal hotel both for PTJHALKW hhh business and leisure visitors. Even fussy customers will be satisfied with the wide range of plush comforts. To name a Arethusa F5, Mitropoleos 6, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) few, free Internet, free fitness centre and generous upgrades. 210 3229431, fax (+30) 210 3229439, arethusa@ Some of the bathrooms, especially in executive rooms, are traveling.gr, www.arethusahotel.gr. Named after an more than spacious. A fine meeting room, the roof-garden bar- Athenian nymph, this centrally located hotel is a good choice restaurant and the indulgent Café Degli Artisti for after-work or if location is important to you. It is spotlessly clean and ideal sightseeing laidback entertainment, stand out as this hotel’s for mid-rangers who care more about outdoor activities and strong points. Q 84 rooms. Singles: €100-150, Doubles; want decent accommodation for the right price. Try the café € 100-180, Suites: € 200-250. PTJAFLKDW on the mezzanine, there’s something Parisian about it. Q 87 hhhh rooms, Singles: €60-80, Doubles: €75-95. PTJAGK hhh The Athens Gate F7, Syngrou 10, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9238302, fax (+30) 210 9237493, reser- Attalos E4, Athinas 29, tel. (+30) 210 3212801, fax [email protected], www.athensgate.gr. Located (+30) 210 3243124, [email protected], www. opposite Hadrian’s Gate, this classy beauty is a good choice attaloshotel.com. Basic accommodation in a well situ- if you want to spend a couple of days in style. Drink one of ated building. It has a seventies feel and the staff are polite the cheapest and best cappuccinos in the capital while try- and helpful. The attraction in this establishment is its roof ing to imagine what Athens used to look like from the eighth garden, with a great Acropolis view where we guarantee floor. All rooms are non-smoking and 14 have a see-through you’ll spend many relaxing hours, and its location on leafy (from the bed) shower in case you can’t get enough of your and bustling Athinas Street bordering Psirri and the historic companion. Time also equals information, a fact of which centre, just two minutes walk from the metro. Q 80 rooms, the owners here are no doubt aware, as you can access Singles: €50-70, Doubles: €60-80, Triples: €80-100. PT� the Internet even while in the bathroom. Q 99 rooms. JAGBW hh Singles: €95-205, Doubles: €100-225, Suites: €270-340. PTJHA6ILBKW hhhh Niki F6, Nikis 27, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3220913, fax (+30) 210 3220886, [email protected], www.nikiho- Titania F3, Panepistimiou 52, MPanepistimio, Omo- tel.gr. An elegant colourful and tastefully decorated small nia, tel. (+30) 210 3326000, fax (+30) 210 3300700, budget hotel conveniently located between Syntagma Sq and [email protected], www.titania.gr. Large central hotel, Plaka. Ideal therefore for those who prefer walking to public with a spacious reception area dominated by marble, gold transport. Q 22 rooms, 1 suite. Singles/Doubles: €70-100, and a few ancient replicas. The rooms are comfortable, Suite:€110-130. PTJAR hhh decorated for mainstream tastes and provide all standard amenities. Olive Garden, the rooftop restaurant, offers an Omiros F5, Apollonos 15, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. almost 360 degrees view of the Athenian skyline and live jazz (+30) 210 3235486-7, [email protected], www. to pleasantly accompany your Mediterranean dinner. Q 385 omiroshotel.gr. A very good choice if you want to stay rooms. Singles: €90-120, Doubles : €100-140, Suites: €400. centrally and not spend a fortune. Just off the centre of PTJHAR6UBKW hhhh action, Syntagma Sq and Ermou St, this medium sized hotel comes complete with all the facilities you’re going to need for a pleasant stay, free WiFi included. The rooms Under €100 are comfortable with wooden floors and some of them Acropolis Museum Hotel E8, Syngrou 48, MSyngrou- have an Acropolis view at no extra charge. Q 40 rooms. Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9249050 - 1, fax (+30) 210 9249052, Doubles/Triples: €70-90. PTJAW hhh [email protected], www.acropolismuse- umhotel.com. This 1930s building was once a clinic. These Philippos E8, Mitseon 3, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) days, this modern renovated establishment is appreciated 210 9223611-4, fax (+30) 210 9223615, philippos@ most by those who prefer a cozy family atmosphere to herodion.gr, www.philipposhotel.gr. A sister hotel of impersonal service. The owner’s motto is “feel at ease and Herodion, this one caters for more budget conscious travelers. come and go as you like, because this will be your home for Acceptable, excellently located accommodation, on a quiet the next couple of days”. A philosophy also applied to its street very close to the Acropolis and Plaka. Rooms are basic, sister hotel, Magna Grecia. Rooms designed to suit all kinds but if you are not extremely fussy and you’re not planning to of tastes, with high ceilings and a belle époque aura. The wall spend all your time in the hotel (why should you?), this is very colours vary depending on the floor you‘re on. Couples and good value for your money accommodation. Q 50 rooms. businessmen love it here and with free Internet access and Singles:/Doubles €80-100. PTJARGW hhh

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Where to stay Where to stay 21

long enough you’ll get to meet people from all around the Budget world. You can always chill out for free on the settees if you Centrotel Peoniou 11A, MVictoria, tel. (+30) 210 arrive in the middle of the night and your booking is for the 8258010, [email protected], www.centrotel.gr. If you’re next morning. A heavy duty oven with all necessary food not desperate to stay on the ‘shiny’ part of the city (and preparation accessories awaits the cooking types. If it’s pay accordingly), this is one of the best value for money luxury you’re after, look elsewhere. What you’ll get here is a budget hotels in Athens, located within walking distance clean room for a good night’s sleep and great opportunities to from the Archaeological Museum and Victoria Metro Sta- meet free style travelers like yourself. Look out on the notice tion. Constructed in 2005, it is a super-clean and modern board for announcements like, “Fabian, call your mother” hotel with a helpful and professional staff that would be and prepare for cool parties on the ground floor. Q Dorms: more than adequate in a five star establishment. Free €18-25, Doubles: €40-50. PJARGW parking and free internet is the icing on Centrotel’s cake. Q 59 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €60-80, Suites: €100. AthenStyle D5, Agias Theklas 10, Psirri, MMonasti- PTJARW hhh raki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3225010, info@athenstyle. com, www.athenstyle.com. If you are the type who prefers Metropolis F5, Mitropoleos 46, MSyntagma, tel. to stay close to nightlife this new hostel is a perfect choice as (+30) 210 3217871, fax (+30) 210 3217469, info@ it is located right in Psirri. An old recently converted building hotelmetropolis.gr, www.hotelmetropolis.gr. Anyone with four and six bed dorms sharing a bathroom each and, interested in some good old hanky panky? This is the if you prefer more privacy (at a higher price) you can opt for place for you. This is also a good choice for backpackers one of the double rooms or even the studio flats. There is a and travelers who prefer to spend their money on anything bar, free internet and a rooftop bar with a close up view of other than a hotel. The rooms are less than basic but then the Acropolis and Plaka. Q Dorms: €25, Doubles, studios: again, you will get to use the smallest bathroom ever. So € 60-150. PJAB why stay in this 22-room lodge? Because you’ll get the feel of what life is like in an original Bauhaus structure. Q 22 Dioskouros F7, Pittakou 6, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) rooms. Singles: €40-70, Doubles: € 40-80, Triples: €60-100. 210 3248165,, fax (+30) 210 3219991, consolas@hol. PJR6 hh gr, www.hotelfivos.gr. English-speaking, as most hostels in Athens, and as basic as you can get, it is located in the Pan F5, Mitropoleos 11,, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 heart of Plaka. There are 2 shared toilets on each floor and 3237816, fax (+30) 210 3237819, reservations@pan- no elevator to speak of. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll get a hotel.gr, www.panhotel.gr. Named after ancient god Pan, room with air conditioning.The breakfast area is set in a this family business is a respectable choice. The Internet pleasant outdoor patio. All the rooms are non-smoking.Q is free of charge, the rooms are not bad for the price and Dorms: €20, Doubles €40, Triples €50. PJA it is very well positioned, only a two-minute walk from the Monastiraki area. Q 33 rooms. Singles: €60-80, Doubles: The Student and Travellers Inn F7, Kidathineon €70-100. PTJAGW hhh 16, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 32 44 808, www. studenttravellersinn.com. This hostel is located in the heart of Plaka. It offers private rooms for 1-4 people and Hostels dorms. All rooms are air-conditioned and some offer private Athens Backpackers F7, Makri 12, MAcropolis, facilities and balconies.There is free internet available and tel. (+30) 210 9224044, [email protected], www. services such 24 hour reception, laundry and long term backpackers.gr. This hostel is a never-to-be-forgotten (up to three months) luggage storage. Breakfast is also experience. 18-30 curious Americans adore this fully non- available on demand. Q Dorms: €15-20, Private rooms pp smoking, English speaking joint, but if you hang out here €15-30. PJA

Apartments/Studios

Athens Studios E8, Veikou 3A, MAcropolis, EP16 D4, Epikourou 16, MThissio, tel. 6976 tel. 210 9235811, [email protected], www. 484135, [email protected], www.EP16. athensstudios.gr. This is one of our top low budget com. Luxury apartment accommodation is scarce favourites. You’ll be just a couple of steps away from in Athens, as is reasonably priced accommodation. the New Acropolis Museum and the Acropolis itself. EP16 hits both birds with one stone and what’s more, You’ll get to stay in an apartment that pretty much looks it brings a fresh metropolitan air to downtown Athens. like home. Some of the delights to look forward to are Don’t think of chandeliers and silver cutlery, the 4 flat screens, comfy sofas and a free ADSL connection. brand new apartments housed in a refurbished 1930s Elspeth Geronimos, the lady in charge, wants to create building are luxurious in the contemporary sense of the an English speaking corner in the heart of Athens and word: designer furniture, pleasant homey but minimal her studios form part of this plan. A lunch corner and a environment, a location right in the arty heart of the laundromat make up the other pieces of the puzzle. By city and every modern amenity you may ever need for the way, don’t bother dropping off your dog at the kennels. a comfortable stay. This is definitely the next Athenian Dogs are more than welcome! Make sure you don’t miss super-hit for the knowledgeable and lucky few (reserve out on the opportunity to get a glimpse of the “Athens by well in advance). Minimum stay 3 days. Q €110 for the night” walking tour, organised by Athens Studios. That’s larger apartments and €90 for the smaller ones. Nego- the right time of day to appreciate the city’s delights, with tiable for long term stay. PTJA6GB people who know where to take you. Q Singles: €22-26, Doubles: €35-50, Triples: €96. PTJAR6G W W athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 22 Restaurants Restaurants

are equally authentic and you can choose between a set Restaurant Listings Policy menu and dozens of delicious main courses. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00, Sun 02:00 - 00:00. €€€. PTJA any Athenian restaurants sell a number of things Mlike décor, location, view, exclusivity and attitude, Soul Kitchen A4, Konstantinoupoleos 46 & Elaseidon, forgetting to pay adequate attention to their primary Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410418. Soul business: food. Kitchen has moved from Psirri to Gazi and apart from the new Some others concentrate on food but make their custom- premises nothing much has changed. That’s good news as it ers pay through the nose for the privilege. still serves the best Thai cuisine in the city, enjoyed with great In Your Pocket staff untertake the strenuous task of music among ultra cool crowds who faithfully follow every new selecting, among hundreds of establishments, those venture of the owners. One of the few places that still resists that truly respect the custom of their visitors and take the mass market approach that most establishments have their business seriously, whether they are humble cheap followed in the area. Great location too, just off the madness souvlaki joints or sophisticated expensive Michelin- of the Kerameikos metro station square. QOpen 20:00 - starred restaurants. 03:00. Closed Mon. €€. PJAUB Your experiences are always appreciated. Please post your own review on our website or email us at: athens@ Wagamama The Golden Hall, Kifissias Avenue 37, tel. inyourpocket.com (+30) 210 6836844, www.wagamama.com.gr. Athens got its own Wagamama recently and those of us who never miss the oportunity to enjoy its fresh and delicious Asian meals abroad got really excited! The quality and prices are American the same as in every other Wagamama around the world but Hard Rock Café F6, Filellinon 18, MSyntagma, tel. it is a shame that this first Athenian restaurant is housed (+30) 210 3252758, www.hardrock.com/athens. in the open space of a shopping mall. They take no phone There are no surprises with Hard Rocks, you know that. reservations, but once you’re there you can request a table, It’s all guitars and jackets and motorbikes hanging from the do your shopping in the new exclusive Golden Hall and then walls, burgers, margueritas and rock n’roll! One thing that return to enjoy your freshly prepared yasai yaki soba. QOpen certainly distinguishes this one, is the very Athenian three- 12:00 - 11:30. €€. PTA storey refurbished neoclassical building, a few steps from the historic Plaka district. Go ahead, buy this Athens T-shirt that is missing from your collection and enjoy a true Hard Rock Bar Restaurants evening. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA Bacaro E4, Sofokleous 1, MPane, tel. (+30) 210 Jackson Hall H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 3211882. Hidden in a lovely atrium this is a modern bar- 3616098, [email protected], www.jacksonhall.gr. restaurant and at the same time a music stage where bands This is a classic hotspot for chic Athenians of all ages, the perform live jazz on a daily basis. The menu is a collection place to see and to be seen in classy upmarket Kolonaki. of delicious Mediterranean dishes worth trying but you can Serves tasty cocktails and an interesting assortment of also watch the performances enjoying a fine cocktail.The American-style food, though a tad on the expensive side (it place hosts jazz-themed art exhibitions and during the day- must, after all, live up to its eclectic clientele). Its crammed time they serve coffees and snacks.There is no admission tables lining the pavement, with a unique uninterrupted view charge for the performances. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €€. to the pedestrian path/fashion catwalk, are a distinctively PTJAEB Athenian landmark, even in winter. Service is very profes- sional. If you are looking for a stylish night out in town, you Balthazar Tsoha 27 & Vournazou, MAmpelokipi, tel. should consider checking this out. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (+30) 210 6441215. A classic ‘see and be seen’ bar- €€€. PJAB restaurant for the affluent crowds of the city, housed in an old grand neoclassical mansion with a beautiful garden. Food is Mediterranean and priced for the celebrity clientele, but the Asian music can be too loud for those who prefer to enjoy a quiet Kona Kai Syngrou 115, (Ledra Marriott Hotel), dinner. Do not dress too casual. QOpen 21:00 - 01:30. MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9300000. This Polynesian €€€€. PJA restaurant became a synonym for fine dining in an era when Athenians were as used to international cuisine as they were Black Duck Multiplarte F4, Hristou Lada 9, MSyntag- used to snow sledges. A quarter of a century later, Athenians ma, Panepistimio, tel. 210 3234760, www.blackduck. have become true cosmopolitan diners but Kona Kai remains gr. An all-day multilevel hang-out in downtown Athens with a point of reference for the knowledgeable who come here a café-bar on the ground floor, a restaurant upstairs and a time and again to enjoy excellent food prepared by top Poly- gallery in the basement. Every last detail of the decoration nesian chefs. As the Marriott deliberately keeps its original has been taken care of and the staff is very professional. The tacky Polynesian decoration, the place cannot be described cuisine is Mediterranean and everything is prepared with fresh as ultra fashionable, but who needs to be trendy when one ingredients. There are daily specials along the good selection is already a legend? QOpen 19:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun. of main courses, salads and desserts of the menu and a €€€€. PTJAU comprehensive wine list. In the evening the music (from jazz and world to funk and soul) gets louder, the barmen prepare Red Indian D3, Epikourou 25 Psirri, MThissio, tel. delicious Black Duck cocktails and the stylish crowds loosen (+30) 210 3219908, www.redindian.gr. This restaurant is up in one of the area’s coolest hotspots. QOpen 10:00 - so authentic, it feels like it has been taken to bits somewhere 01:30, Sun 18:00 - 01:30. PJAK in India and reassembled in the darkest part of Psirri. You can tell it is an up market establishment for the local Indian and Post your own restaurant review at: Pakistani community, no less welcoming though for those of us who appreciate an original Madras. All the dishes served inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 23

French Price Guide Cellier Le Bistot G5, Panepistimiou 10, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3638525. A grand Parisian bistrot right in Prices are based on a good meal with house wine the centre of Athens. Excellent location to enjoy a glass of (where not available, we assume that a bottle wine and a light lunch in style, after a tiring sightseeing or of decent but reasonably-priced wine is shared shopping walk. The piano and a sax will add that extra touch. between two people). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Aug €€€. PJA €: Less than €15 per person Chez Lucien A7, Troon 32, , MThissio, tel. €€: €15 - €30 per person (+30) 210 3464236. A tiny French owned bistrot hidden for €€€: €30 - €45 per person years in the now upcoming area of Petralona. Troon street is one of the prettiest in the city with an old Athenian flavour €€€€: More than €45 per person and atmoshere. You may have to share your table (there is also one hanging upside down from the ceiling but we doubt you can dine there) and you’ll enjoy original French special- Kuzina C5, Adrianou 9, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 ties prepared in the open kitchen and French wines at very 3240133. Stylish modern taverna serving quality cooking that reasonable prices. Just make sure you come early (that’s has rightfully earned its place among the most famous fusion before 21:00 in Athens) - they take no phone reservations. cuisine restaurants. The well known chef Aris Tsanaklides uses QOpen 20:30 - 01:30. Closed Aug 9-31 €€. PTB his experience and imagination and combines successfully tra- ditional, Mediterranean ingredients in an innovative way based on the international gastronomic trends. Try out some of his Greek Cretan creations such as dumplings filled with a feta cheese mousse and Alatsi K5, Vrasida 13 (Hilton area), MEvangelismos, served with pomegranate syrup or orzo risotto style with lobster tel. (+30) 210 7210501/(+30) 210 7210502. When that will impress even the most demanding fans of gastronomy. famous TV journalist Stavros Theodorakis launched this Continue your evening with drinks at Tarazza roof bar, with a geat restaurant, it became an instant hit. Politicians and fellow Acropolis view. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. €€. PJAB journalists, among others, throng here to savour the Cretan dishes cooked using fresh produce shipped daily from the is- Mamacas A4, Persefonis 41, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. land of Crete. Snails, rabbit, and ‘gamopilafo’ (risotto served (+30) 210 3464984. One of the pioneers of the nightlife at Cretan weddings) are among the specialties. QOpen scene around the Gazi area, this well-known club-restaurant 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Closed Aug €€€. PJA remains very popular with the beautiful partying crowds of the city. Impeccable white couches inside, in a minimalist setting Revaizi Thermopylon 21 & Kastoros, Pireaus, leaving plenty of open space for dancing, while there’s also a MPiraeus, tel. (+30) 210 4080017. Cretan cuisine packed second stage in the basement where fellow dancers and is extremely en vogue these days in Athens but this is a onlookers get up close and personal. Watch out for its live DJ hidden original Cretan restaurant in the harbour of Piraeus, sets. As for dining here, it offers modern , served that was not even featured in Greek listings magazines till in a stylised (and pricier) revamp of tradition. QOpen 13:30 - recently. You’ll enjoy all the usual Cretan fare (‘gamopilafo’, 03:00. €€€. PJAB rabbit etc), excellent meats and real Cretan wine, plus a free welcome ‘raki’ carafe, to the sounds of Cretan music ManiMani E8, Falirou 10, Makrigianni, MAcropolis, tel. (live on Friday evenings). Take metro line 1 all the way to (+30) 210 9218180. Mani is the rocky area in the south of the harbour of Piraeus, on exiting the station turn right the , and many of its local dishes are served in and walk along the harbour for 500 metres. Take a right this superb modern restaurant, housed in the first floor of a turn just before the Church of Agios Dionissios. QOpen neoclassical building a few steps away from the new Acropolis 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PE museum. If you are looking for real, non -touristy Greek food at surprisingly low prices, this is your first choice. We love dining here and we cannot recommend it enough. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Greek Modern Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTJA

Ioannis (Royal Olympic Hotel) F8, Athanasiou K5, Hilton hotel, Vasilisis Sofias 46, MEvangelismos, Diakou 28-34, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400. tel. (+30) 210 7244400. Although you’ll find it at the Hilton Famous chef Kostas Tsigas is in charge of this new gourmet hotel, this is a fine stand-alone Athenian restaurant. The strong restaurant in the roof garden of Royal Olympic Hotel. Tradi- point of Milos is its use of top-quality local produce, brought in tional forgotten Greek recipes prepared with the freshest from around the country, including fresh fish from the Aegean ingredients and a modern twist and a breathtaking view of Sea, which is shipped in on a daily basis. The ambience is ultra most city landmarks (you can almost touch the Temple of modern and the clients are mainly businessmen and celebrities, Olympian Zeus) make this restaurant well worth of one of among others. Very nice thought to offer a €20 lunch menu of the your less casual Athenian nights. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. same quality as dinner but watch out: wine is not included and it €€€€. PTJAB is not cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PJA

Kanella A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70 & Efmolpidon , Tirbouson A3, Konstantinoupoleos 104, Metaxourgio, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3476320. One of MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410107. A relatively new the great success stories of Gazi and the neo-taverna move- entry, this modern Greek restaurant is run by a young man ment. A combination of a Greek mum’s type of cooking, low Giannis and his parents and offers delicious traditional Greek prices and a fashionable clientele, packs this restaurant and food with a creative touch. The highlight of the dining hall (a its pavement tables every single day and night. Cold lentil converted workshop) is an impressive light pendant made salad and lemon lamb are our favourites while the house with wine bottles. If you are a train spotter, window tables wine is an acceptable choice if you want to keep your bill at offer an undisturbed view of the rail tracks outside. QOpen really low levels. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. €€. PTJB 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PTA athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 24 Restaurants Restaurants

Yantes G2, Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. Fine Dining (+30) 210 3301369. An upmarket (for the neighbourhood of Exarchia) restaurant serving modern Greek cuisine prepared Matsuhisa (Nobu) Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos with almost exclusively organic ingredients. The clientele 40,, tel. 210 8960510. No need to travel to consists mostly of young freestylers and intellectuals and the Beverly Hills and Aspen (or indeed Malibu, New York, Milan atmosphere is laid back and casual. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. and of course Tokyo) anymore, to savour Mr Matsuhisa’s €€. PTJA heavenly creations. His newest restaurant opened its doors in Athens recently, and became immediately the gastronomic talk of the town. If you can appreciate the Greek Traditional Nobu experience of creative Japanese cuisine at its best combined with a superb seaside location and impeccable Damigos (Bakaliarakia) F6, Kidathineon 41, Plaka, service, you won’t mind the bill, probably the highest you’ll MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3225084. Right in the heart of pay in Greece (a ‘dégustation’ menu costs €98 without touristy Plaka, this basement taverna serves ‘bakaliarakia’ (fried wine). QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu 19:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat cod in batter served with ‘skordalia’- the deadly garlic sauce) the 19:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. €€€€. same way it has done throughout the twentieth century. Dining PAUG here makes one feel like an extra in an old black and white film and rightly so…the place has provided the setting for many Spondi I8, Pyrronos 5, , tel. 210 7520658, Greek films of the sixties. QOpen 14:00 - 12:00. €€. PJN www.spondi.gr. With two Michelin stars and a member- ship of Rélais & Châteaux, it is considered by many as the Doris E4, Praxitelous 30, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 best restaurant in Athens. Its French chef creates haute 3232671. A daytime-only restaurant, catering to a clientele of cuisine dishes with imaginative flair, catering for people with local business people and shoppers. Do not be deterred by the exquisitely refined taste buds. The wine list is as compre- colour of the walls (who on earth thought of painting a traditional, hensive as you’d expect in a world class restaurant like this old -fashioned Greek restaurant pink?) the food here is excellent. and prices reflect the gastronomic experience. But if you You can choose from an extensive menu (displayed every day choose to dine at Spondi we don’t suppose that cost is an on a blackboard, only in Greek) that could in its own right be issue… QOpen 20:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PJAB proclaimed a cook book on Greek cuisine. Prices are dead cheap and, if you prefer to opt for sweets, ‘loukoumades’ (Greek-style Tudor Hall G5, Georgiou A, Syntagma Sq, MSyn- doughnuts topped with honey) are the house specialty. QOpen tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210. Housed on the 7th 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €€. PTJNS floor of the luxurious King George Hotel, right on Syntagma square, this is a restaurant with an aristocratic feel for Ilias C5,B5, Thessalonikis 7 & Eptahalkou 5, MThissio, a truly special night out in Athens. The menu is a fine tel. (+30) 210 34 22 407/(+30) 210 345 80 52. The mixture of Greek and French dishes prepared with the hands-on consumption of copious amounts of barbecued lamb best local organic produce. The dining hall has a theatrical chops constitutes a time-honoured ritual that has survived the splendour with chandeliers, high ceilings and Greek pillars refinement of the modern Athenian. In these sister traditional but we recommend you book a table on the terrace where Greek taverns you will enjoy the best lamb chops in town, and you’ll feel you can almost touch the floodlit Parthenon. an excellent location on a quiet pedestianised street. Beat the QOpen 12:00 - 16:00 & 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. locals by arriving before 21:00, or call for a reservation as both €€€€. PJAUB places are packed every evening. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. TJN Varoulko C4, Pireos 80, , MThissio, Kerameikos, tel. 210 5228400,www.varoulko.gr. By Kappari A8, Dorieon 36, Petralona, tel. 210 3450288. far the best sea food restaurant in Athens. Lefteris Lazarou, An old house, salvaged from demolition, and its front yard have a celebrity chef awarded with a Michelin star and founder become a traditional Greek tavern that preserves a nostalgic old of Varoulko, chooses the foremost ingredients and creates Athenian atmosphere. The emphasis of the menu is on grilled a magnificent, yet simple menu. He maintains a personal meat but there are other typical Greek dishes on offer and the relationship with his guests and you’ll often see him leaving quality and taste of almost everything we tried was exeptional. his kitchen and and discussing with them their impressions. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB A cellar visible from one of the dining halls hosts an excel- lent list of Greek and international labels. A selection of Palia Taverna tou E6, Erechtheos 16, Plaka, daily-prepared imaginative desserts will ensure the best MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3218733. Plaka is full of tour- possible conclusion to your Varoulko experience. QOpen ist traps but many expats swear by this taverna’s name. It has 20:30 - 0:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. PJA been operating for more than a century in an old, now restored building not very easy to find in the labyrinth of small streets. The food is basically fish and the kind of standard Greek more appreciated by foreigners. There is live music and the prices are Taverna: Synonymous with ‘tavern’ or ‘diner’, a no-frills, slightly high but it is probably your best choice if you die to dine authentic and lower-priced eating-out establishment. in Plaka. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTJAIE Psistaria / Psitopolio: No-frills grill-house serving meat dishes. Rozalia G2, Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. Mezedopolio: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ (+30) 210 3821685. Rozalia is a garden taverna that has (entrées-nibbles) been around for almost three decades and is considered an Ouzeri: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ that are best institution in simple original Greek cooking among its regulars accompanied by a carafe of ouzo that include students, artists and laid back types who frequent Tsipouradiko: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ that are the Exarchia neighbourhood.You’ll be tempted to pick most of best accompanied by a bottle of ‘tsipouro’ the fifteen starters that will arrive as soon as you take your seat but don’t get carried away, the main dishes, grilled meats and fresh fish look and taste equally good. Accompany with

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 25

organic wine from the barrel and don’t worry about the cost, Rozalia is a crisis-friendly eatery. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. Greek food TJAB Mezes (sing.) / Mezedes (pl.): A selection of Taverna tou Psirri D4, Eschylou 12, Psirri, MMona- stiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3214923. As you can probably entrées served in small plates and placed guess from our list of recommendations, we are huge fans at the centre of the table for sharing among of original Greek tavernas serving real Greek food with no friends. frills and attitude attached. This is definitely one of those Horiatiki: Traditional salad consisting of places that has survived for decades in an area full of frills tomatoes, cucumber, green peppers, olives, and attitude and poor excuses for Greek restaurants. They feta cheese and a generous serving of olive do fish and they do meat and day specials and everything is oil, universally known as Greek Salad. simply excellent. The wine is decent and comes from a barrel, the atmosphere is welcoming and the staff are trying their Horta: Salad composed of certain varieties best when the place is packed. As for the bill, just don’t worry of boiled wild herbs or greens. about it. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. €€. PTJ Saganaki: Pan-fried type of dish served with lemon. Popular varieties are the shrimp, or To Kafeneio I5, Loukianou 26, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) ‘garides saganaki’, cheese or ‘tiri saganaki’ 210 7237757. Unadulterated traditional Greek food in an and mussels or ‘midia saganaki’. atmosphere of understated elegance. The dishes here are Gemista: Oven-roasted tomatoes, peppers simple and flavoursome. We recommend the “aginares ala (and less usually, courgettes and aubergin- polita” (artichokes in a lovely creamy egg and lemon sauce), stuffed cabbage leaves (“lachanodolmades”) or the lovely es) stuffed with rice and herbs (and option- speciality salad, accompanied by its good quality house wine. ally mince meat, pine nuts, raisins). Of course, this being Kolonaki you will pay a bit more for your Gigantes: Giant beans oven-roasted in a Greek culinary experience, but then again, the pleasant at- tomato and herb sauce. mosphere and tasteful surroundings (including the signatures Melitzanosalata: Aubergine salad (dip). of famous personalities that have passed through its doors) Taramosalata: Fish roe salad (dip). explain the pricing policy. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun. Fava: Chick-pea dip served with lemon and €€€. PJA chopped onion. Triantafyllo tis nostimias F5, Lekka 22, MSyntagma, Soutzoukakia: Spicy meatballs flavoured tel. (+30) 210 3227298. Difficult to pronounce and impos- with cumin and served in a red sauce. sible to find as it is hidden inside a small arcade, this traditional Moussakas: Well-known oven-baked dish Greek taverna serves the local population of the surrounding of potatoes, layered with mince meat, au- offices. There are both meat and fish dishes prepared with bergines and bechamel sauce. fresh ingredients and a genuine taverna atmosphere that every Spanakopita: Traditional spinach pie. Saturday afternoon comes alive with bouzouki. Add to all that Tiropita: Traditional cheese pie. its ridiculous prices and you have a perfect lunch place two minutes from Syntagma Sq. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Stifado: Type of meat dish slow-cooked in Sun. Closed Aug 10-31 €€. PTJE wine and spices, together with a generous amount of shallots. Italian

Il Doppio G2, Andrea Metaxa 30, Exarchia, MOmonia, Il postino Skoufa 64 & Griveon 3, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 3304333. This unassuming trattoria serves MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3641414. This tasty Italian specialties at reasonable prices. Once you set Italian-owned osteria serves fresh, simple, well cooked foot in the elegant neoclassical building nestling right in the Italian food that you can watch being prepared in its open busy epicentre of bohemian Exarchia, you will suddenly find kitchen. Postcards on the walls and flowery windows give yourself in a traditionally Italian setting, complete with wooden the place a pleasant Italian feel, while outside tables will floors and chairs, open-air kitchen, earth-coloured hues make you feel like you’re dining in a suburb of Rome. Its -mainly ochre and beige- and checked table cloths, which all location is very convenient should you wish to continue your contribute to creating an environment of understated style. evening in the nearby bars in this small but lively nightlife It serves a wide selection of pasta dishes and also offers neighbourhood on the borders of Kolonaki and Exarchia. an extensive wine list. Another of its attractions is its long QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAB opening hours, as this Italian-lovers’ haunt closes well after Q PJA midnight. Open 13:00 - 02:00. €€. Meat Lovers Drinks Butcher A5, Persefonis 19, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3413440. Following the huge success of fish restaurant ‘Sardeles’, the owners set up shop next Ouzo Traditional aniseed-flavoured spirit usually ac- door. This meat-only restaurant looks like an old butcher’s companying seafood ‘mezedes’ shop and serves fine organic meats and local varieties of Tsipouro Traditional strong spirit sausage supplied directly from every corner of Greece. Raki Traditional strong spirit similar to tsipouro Potatoes fried in olive oil are a must. Lemon or chocolate Rakomelo ‘Raki’ blended with honey, served warm pie and the complimentary liquors will round off your meal Retsina Traditional wine flavoured with pine resin nicely. QOpen 13:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTJA athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 26 Restaurants Restaurants

Telis D4, Evripidou 86, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. Souvlaki (+30) 210 3242775. Rich and poor have been eating side by side here for decades. Leave your table manners at home and do not expect pleasant surroundings and Souvlaki Bar E2, Adrianou & Thissiou 15, fancy decoration. You’re only here for one reason: to stuff MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 5150550. Very conve- yourself with the best pork chops in Athens. QOpen niently located, just 50 metres from Thission metro 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJNB station, this is a modern place with a bar atmosphere where you will enjoy your souvlaki served in many tasty and imaginative ways. Don’t leave without trying their specialty: Delicious spicy pork chops. QOpen Mediterranean 10:00 - late. €. JNS Boschetto J5, Evangelismos Grove, MEvange- lismos, tel. (+30) 210 721 08 93. For the fans of Iroon Square E5, Iroon Square 6, Psirri, MMona- aristocratic fin-de-siècle ambience and for those who still stiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3218219. This is actually an cling to ‘passé’ formalities, rules of etiquette and other address as this place has no name. It doesn’t need such charming antiquated traditions. As expected, this one as it has been well known for years for its tasty restaurant attracts a mainly older and well-mannered, fare among its fans who queue everyday during lunch- ‘high-society’ crowd. That having been said, it must be time to enjoy high quality kalamakia and meatballs stressed that the strengths of this establishment do served on their own or inside half a loaf of normal extend to an interesting selection of dishes on offer, with bread. If you are a fan of pita bread head elsewhere, a slight preference for fish and seafood, and its lovely none is served here. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed garden. QOpen 13:00 - 16:00 & 20:00-00:30. Closed Sat, Sun. €. JS Sun. €€€€. PJA

Kosta E5, Agias Eirinis Sq, MMonastiraki, No GB Corner G5, , MSyntagma, Telephone. A lunch cult for Athenians in the know. tel. (+30) 210 3330000. This classic brasserie, a meet- Every day, from his narrow kitchen, Mr. Kostas serves ing point for government officials, prominent businessmen hundreds of portions of his single speciality: Meat- and powerful media professionals lives up to the fame balls on pita bread, french fries, tomato, spicy sauce and luxury of its host Grande Bretagne hotel. Art-deco and a pickled pepper on top. Do not expect seating atmosphere, leather sofas and immaculate service, and service, customers enjoy their lunch standing together with the well prepared Mediterranean food, outside, in one of Athens’ prettiest squares. With €6 make up the GB experience. Probably the most formal you’ll stuff yourself and you’ll feel like a true Athens business lunch you can have in Athens. And you’ll pay for insider. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. it accordingly. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JBS €€€€. PJAW

Kostas F5, Pentelis 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) Olive Garden (Titania Hotel) F3, Panepistimiou 210 3228502. In every Athens guidebook you will 52, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3326000. This invariably find the world famous ‘hole-in-the wall’ atmospheric and elegant restaurant is situated on the Kostas souvlaki in Plaka. Don’t go looking for it as roof of Titania hotel and is an excellent choice for night out this place shut down more than a year ago. However, in style in the middle of an olive grove facing the floodlit Kostas is back in business. He set up shop at a new Acropolis.There is live but subtle music and a full bar to location to serve his many loyal fans who insist that take you and your companion into the early hours. The set he makes the best souvlaki in Athens since 1950. The menu is a reasonably priced option but there are plenty new premises are modern and minimal with just a tiny of imaginative dishes to spoil you for choice. QOpen grill, a fridge and a sink. The only reminder of the old 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. TJAUEB place is the same old sign reading ‘No stress’ in Greek. But the souvlaki is top class, and you won’t need to worry about the side-effects of the tzatziki, as Kostas 24 hrs uses plain yoghurt instead. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. JS Papandreou Aristogeitonos 1, Central Market, MOmonia. This is a veritable institution of the central Nikitas D4, Agion Anargyron 19, Psirri, MThissio, meat market. A 24-hour restaurant serving market tel. (+30) 210 3252591. If you happen to pass workers and visitors alike since 1896. A favourite early- through Psirri during the daytime and feel like an au- morning hangout for journalists in the older days, when thentic cheap and delicious lunch, is very easy to spot all national newspapers were based downtown. These Nikitas. It is the one whose outside tables are always crammed and you may have to wait for a while, but it days party animals and bar staff make a stop here in is worth it. This psitopolio has been serving the work- the early hours of the day. If you just had a crazy night ing crowds of Psirri since 1967 and has maintained a out topped with copious amounts of alcohol to boot, loyal clientele even these days with the hundreds of take our word for it, this is what the doctor orders before choices in the area. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Closed heading back to your hotel balcony to watch the sunrise. Sun. €. JBS QOpen 24h. €. PJS

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Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 27

Salero G2, Valtetsiou 51, Exarchia, MVictoria, tel. Sea Food (+30) 210 3813358. There’s nothing the owners can do about the dodgy surroundings. So they made up for it by Efta Thalasses G4, Omirou 11, Kolonaki, MPanepis- doing a pretty good job of brightening the interior. Salero timio, tel. (+30) 210 3624825. Coming to Athens after started off as a Spanish delicacies restaurant and has now a big success in the capital of good food Thessaloniki, Efta evolved into what we would call a Mediterranean treat. Thalasses (seven seas) is a modern fish and sea food res- Tapas are always up for grabs, but don’t ask for the bill taurant with a civilised feel. It is not dirt cheap but the quality before you’ve tried the spinach pie or the Catalane crème. of the food served (everything is fresh and deliciously cooked) QOpen 14:00 - 01:30. €€. PJA makes it a good choice for an ouzo lunch among politicians and local businessmen. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Surreal F1, Rethymnis 12, , MVictoria, Closed until Sep 6 €€€. PTJA tel. (+30) 210 8230313. True to its name, the setting here is more than a little inspired by the art movement Gialiskari Achilleos 119, Paleo Faliro, tel. (+30) 210 of the ‘20s. We love the eccentric other-worldly touches, 9837498. We don’t often recommend restaurants outside such as the life-sized Cycladic statue masquerading as a the city centre unless we think that the food you will enjoy bright neon extravaganza. The burgundy red curtains and there is really worth a short bus or tram ride. This is one of black-and-white arabesque tapestry patterns on the walls those cases: a restaurant paying utmost attention to the qual- are midway between kinky boudoir and cosy bistrot, though ity and the freshness of the ingredients they use. The menu you can’t quite pin down exactly which. Food is more than is therefore not set but depends on the fish that passed the satisfactory, mainly Mediterranean in character and rea- cook’s daily tests: ie the best in the market. And what’s more: sonably priced, with some innovative dishes on offer, such the bill will be just a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere for as the polenta cooked with gorgonzola cheese and pears. the same quality. Some regulars will be disappointed we’re QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€. PJA giving away their little secret, but that’s our job after all, isn’t it? Tram from Syntagma Sq, tram stop Achilleos (about 30 Ouzeri min) QOpen 14:00 - 00:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTA Sardeles A5, Persefonis 15, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Glykis F6, Agelou Geronta 2, Plaka, MMonastiraki, (+30) 210 3478050. This modern and reasonably-priced tel. (+30) 210 3223925. Glykis is an ouzeri just off Plaka fish restaurant specialising in humble varieties of fish has square frequented mainly by students and some tourists become a huge success. When the weather is good it more where you can have an ouzo lunch accompanied by a pikilia than triples its size with pavement tables right on the main (a plate of assorted mezedes) coming in different sizes Gazi street, where you can watch the crowds go by and enjoy depending on the number of people sharing. QOpen the complimentary limoncello and masticha liquors offered 10:00 - 02:00. €. JB to pleasantly conclude your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 01:30. €€. PJA Naxos D5, Hristokopidou 1 Psirri, MMonastiraki,Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3218222. An ‘old school’ ouzeri in Psirri that pre-existed the charge of the masses. Humble but real food, fried fish and lots of ‘mezedes’ as well as charcoaled octopus - usually on weekends- will perfectly accompany the ouzo-drinking ex- perience you ought to have ay least once while in Athens. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PTJB

Ouzou Melathron D5, Astigos& Philippou, MMonas- tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3240716. Thessaloniki in northern Greece is a city of fine food and a relaxed lifestyle and it is only natural that Ouzou Melathron, one of its famous ‘ouzeri’ set up shop in the capital. Convenient location and excellent ‘mezedes’ make it a favourite among Athenians and visitors alike. You may have to wait for a table (no reservations) but it is well worth it. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PJA

Rebecca D4, Miaouli 22, Psirri, MMonastiraki. If you’re looking for an unaffected, no-frills going-out experi- ence in a buzzing, youthful environment, this is worth checking out. Situated in the lively nightlife area of Psirri and brimming with a casual crowd of students sipping their “rakomela” (traditional sweet but in no way innocent drink concocted by warming up raki -a strong spirit- with honey), the atmosphere here is reminiscent of a university campus bar. You will be surprised to find that despite its in no way extraordinary décor, it manages to create a lively, playful ambience and you may even have to queue for a cramped little table on the curb. A good choice if you’re the laid-back type and enjoy being at the epicentre of all the buzz - the ideal people-watching spot. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. €€. JNB athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 28 RcestaurantsafÉs Nightlife

Cafés Ginger Ale G2, Themistokleous 74, Exarchia, MOmo- nia, tel. (+30) 210 3301246. Retro pop has become so Acropolis Museum Café E7, New Acropolis Mu- trendy during the last few years in Athens, that it is getting seum, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9000901. Someone a bit boring, not least because of the cheap and soulless should finally set an example in this overcharging city imitations of 60s objects and furniture used en masse and what a nice surprise: it was the brand new Acropolis by owners who in their effort to differentiate their place Museum with its two cafés. Elsewhere you’d pay through achieve the exact opposite result. Ginger Ale is no place the nose for the view and the privilege of the surroundings like that, every piece of furniture is an original vintage item (the terrace tables are facing directly the Parthenon), but carrying the marks of the extraordinary decade. The crowd here you can enjoy the absolute cheapest coffee in town is equally cheerful and relaxed, you are right on Exarchia (€1.50-2.50) and snacks and salads (€2.50-6.00) with square after all. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJB traditional Greek products prepared with a modern twist. We look forward to the complete menu they have promised. Inoteka D5, Avissinias sq 3, Monastiraki, MMonasti- QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. raki, tel. (+30) 210 3246446. Located right in the middle PTJUB of Monastiraki antique shops, hidden behind jumbles of old furniture and every kind of second hand item sold in Aiolis E5, Aiolou 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 Avissinias square this all day café-bar is a perfect stopover 3312839. A large café housed in a lovely neo-classical during your wanders in the city. Coffees, cold snacks and building. The tables outside are usually occupied by tour- sweets are on offer from early in the morning and when ists enjoying their drinks in the sun, but the real attraction the evening comes electro and ambient dub sounds by of Aiolis is the atmospheric interior with its high ceilings and different DJs attract young and fashionably alternative wooden panels. QOpen 09:00 - late. PJNB crowds. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PJB

Booze E4, Kolokotroni 57, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) Kafeneio Thissio C6, Akamantos 2, Thissio, 210 3240944, [email protected], www. MThissio,, tel. (+30) 210 3473133. This café was boozecooperativa.com. This is not an ordinary café, it is serving the locals of Thissio long before bars and cafés rather a part of an alternative art house, Booze Coopera- took over every last inch of available space around the tiva, that hosts a large number of art events, exhibitions, area. These days, its clientele is a lot younger and its concerts, video art projections and performances. There decoration modern and minimal. It maintains a distinct is a long wooden table, magazines and board games, and if laid back Bohemian character, unlike most of its undif- you feel at home and spend the whole day there, just step ferentiated neighbouring counterparts. Drinks are cheap upstairs to the night club, an offspring of the historic 90s and if you feel peckish after the obligatory walk around the Booze club. QOpen 10:00 - late. PJ6E Acropolis Rock, a light lunch comes at low prices. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJ Da Capo H5, Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3602497. Famous outdoor café, where Klepsidra E6, Klepsidras & Thrasyvoulou 9, Plaka, any self-respecting nouveau riche Athenian wants to be MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3212493. A nicely iso- spotted among politicians, actors and high profile celeb- lated from the madding crowd café, it is a must stop during rities. This isn’t just a simple “place to drink your coffee” your wandering in the narrow streets of Plaka. Coffees and choice but a way of life for some of its regulars who spend refreshments will be placed next to the tasteful little fra- hours here on a daily basis practicing the intricate ancient grant basil plants adorning the tables. An idyllic setting for art of checking out passing crowds. Espresso and cap- quiet evening drinks too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JB puccino prices are surprisingly reasonable considering the location and the clientele. QOpen 07:30 - 00:00. Krinos E4, Aiolou 87, tel. (+30) 210 3216852. This PJB café has been around since the twenties. Most of its regulars too! Its old style has been kept intact, despite the Dioskouroi Café D5, Adrianou 39, Monastiraki, occasional refurbishments. Here you’ll savour the best bou- MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3253323. ‘Dioskouroi’ gatsa (cream pie topped with sugar and cinnamon) in town. were the sons of Zeus and Leda. This is one of the few Also loukoumades, ice-cream and sandwiches priced lower cafés under this label in the region and is situated in the for takeaways. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Sat 07:30 - 15:30, Tue, picturesque spot just above Monastiraki Metro station. Thu, Fri 07:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PTJNS Students love it and you’ll have a hard time finding a table. Order frappé or Greek coffee in the morning and if you hang Museum Café F1, 28 Oktovriou (National Archaeo- around long enough, continue with ouzo and “mezedes” logical Museum), MVictoria. Situated right next to the while practicing your backgammon skills. QOpen 08:00 Museum, in a pleasant environment surrounded by potted - 02:00. JB

Filion H4, Skoufa 34, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 Yogurt bar 3612850. Despite its unremarkable décor, this lively café manages to retain its multitude of regular customers (many Froyo E5, Ermou 55 & Kapnikareas 2, MSyn- of them famous actors and writers), because of its cosy tagma, Monastiraki, tel. (+30) 212 1006147. laid-back atmosphere and congenial environment. The New entry, the first Greek “yogurteria” introducing coffee here is superb and so is the ice-cream, as this is frozen yogurt as an alternative, refreshing and healthy one of the few places serving acclaimed Greek ice-cream dessert. You can combine it with one of 30 different brand Kayak, guaranteed additive and preservative-free. kinds of toppings, like fresh fruit, cereal, nuts or with A good choice for lingering and enjoying an invigorating chocolate pie and Greek sweets. Delicious! QOpen beverage together with a scoop or two (or three!), or a 08:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 00:30. traditional pastry following a strenuous shopping session in Kolonaki. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB

Athens In Your Pocket RcestaurantsafÉs Nightlife 29

plants and trees (you may almost forget you’re right in the chaotic centre of downtown Athens) this café serves good Bars coffee, accompanied by a complimentary assortment of A Lier Man A4, Sofroniou 2 Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. biscuits and mini-croissants. Food is respectable and (+30) 210 3426322. This bar-restaurant belongs to the reasonably priced. If you visit in early spring, try finding select club of establishments that become trendy as soon a table next to the almond tree, it is absolutely beautiful as they open their doors to the public. Tucked in a narrow when in bloom. Service is efficient and polite. A good choice street just off the main Gazi square, it has been one of the for a snack following your visit to the nearby Archaeological big hits of the last season. Although they serve food, the Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PJB place is primarily a bar with small rooms and smart decora- tion where freestyle crowds pack themselves to enjoy good National Gardens café H6, National Gardens, Irodou music of different genres. When the weather is good a couple Attikou entrance, MSyntagma. Grab a book and walk of tables outside serve as a much needed chill out retreat. into the national gardens where you’ll find this little tranquil QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJK outdoor café, with its tables scattered in the thick shade of the garden’s trees. Coffees, snacks, refreshments and Ambariza F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 the best cool afternoon break in the city. QOpen 09:00 3257644. It opens early in the morning serving coffees and - 20:00. J6B snacks etc but this place is basically a watering hole for selec- tive drinkers. Dark wood is everywhere and the long bar is its Numismatic Museum Café G4, Panepistimiou 12, strongest point while guest DJs fill the place with appropriate MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3643774. Whether you funky - jazzy tunes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PJ are interested or not in the coins collections housed in the museum, its café is a must refueling stop during your Athens Sports Bar E8, Veikou 3A, Makry, MAcropolis, wanders downtown. As central as it gets, it is located in www.athenssportsbar.gr. It’s the only Australian-run bar in the cool garden of the museum and has a civilised and Athens and it caters to ex-pats, tourists and all sports fans relaxing atmosphere - an oasis in the noisy city centre. who love watching a game of their favourite sport the right The café offers a large selection of snacks, sandwiches, way: with lots of beer and a fun atmosphere. Mondays are wines and homemade sweets perfect for lunch or a light pub quiz nights and Thursdays Karaoke. Happy hour every dinner complete with jazz sounds. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. evening 19:00-20:00 QOpen 07:30 - late. PJB PTJ Baba Au Rum E5, Kleitiou 6, MSyntagma, Monastiraki. Serbetia tou Psirri Eschylou 3, Psirri, MMonasti- Forget everything you knew about cocktails! This new arrival raki, tel. (+30) 210 3245862. The best way to finish is virtually a cocktail lab! The guys import directly most of the off the dinner you’ve just had in Taverna tou Psirri across rare spirits, bitters and syrups they use to produce their out- the street.Home made sweets and preserves like cherry of-this-world cocktails. Their excellent menu-booklet includes and bergamot, huge ice cream servings, sweet crepes, seven cocktails you ‘must taste at least once in your lifetime’. baklava and all kinds of coffees are served in this cute We had them all during our first visit and we can only agree little cafe just off the main Psirri square. QOpen 10:30 with the statement. The place itself has the minimal-industrial - 01:30. PT feel of the ‘Bios’ school but most people stand outside right in the heart of the city’s historic triangle. The only negative Skoufaki H4, Skoufa 47-49, MPanepistimio, tel. point is that it can take long to be served when the place is (+30) 210 3645888. A small café with character. This is packed. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB where you’ll find your average arty type sitting side by side with your typical mid 30s ladies taking a break from their Bartesera F5, 25, Kolokotroni St. & Praxitelous Gallery, strenuous shopping spree. It’s a strange combination but, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3229805. This bar is divided for this freestyle coffee shop, it seems to work out fine. into 3 parts. A sitting room for quiet conversations, a bustling You’ll get to listen to an assortment of music and, if you lose section and, in the middle, a space for those who like a bit of track of time, you’ll witness its gradual transformation into both. As for the music, expect nothing less than alternative a night bar. If you want to stay out of sight, try the upstairs lashings of jazz, progressive, soul and hip-hop. One of the level. Lazy sofas and cozy corners are perfect for hush-hush hottest night spots in town these days, frequented by your rendezvous. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJ average 25-40 freestylers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Closed: Aug 13-24. PJB Stavlos C5, Iraklidon 10, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 3467206, www.stavlos.gr. The King’s sta- Bios B4, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, MKerameikos/ bles once, now a café, restaurant, club and art exhibition Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3425335, [email protected], www. venue all under the same roof. It is probably the only one bios.gr. A point of reference for the alternative-progressive among equivalent establishments situated on Thission’s Athenian youth. A minimal bar, a stage for live performances, central night-time thoroughfare, which is known by its name a basement club hosting experimental djs and two small art and which can boast of loyal regulars. The inner courtyard house cinemas, all under the same industrial roof of a beauti- provides a pleasant alternative if you’re not desperate to ful bauhaus building with a quiet roof garden with a distinct enjoy your drink with a ‘catwalk’ view just outside. QOpen downtown feel. Founder Vassilis Charalampidis, a designer 09:00 - 02:00. PJA and his team, have embarked on a ‘creative exploration of the multiple manifestations of urban culture’, at the same time Zonar’s (Le Café D’Athenes) G5, Panepistimiou bringing Athenian nightlife a step closer to Berlin, London and & Voukourestiou st, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 New York. Its quiet roof garden has a distinct downtown feel. 3211158. A historic café that opened its doors again, QOpen 11:00 - 3:00. PJW following complete renovation a couple of years ago. It has the atmosphere of a grand café, a rich history dur- Brettos F6, Kydathineon 41, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. ing the last century and a very central location. QOpen (+30) 210 3232110, www.brettosplaka.com. A unique 09:00 - 01:00. PJA store and one of the oldest Athenian family distilleries, selling its own brand of traditional sweet liquors during the day and

Winter 2011 - 2012 30 Nightlife Nightlife

a bar serving these same spirits in the evening. The colourful record covers of the genre on the walls, a long bar, and a bottles on the shelves covering its walls are artfully lit and pool table and the music is thankfully far from the stale old make the place one of the most recognisable attractions of type rock one expects to listen in similar establishments. Plaka. Bring your camera: Switched at low shutter speeds, it Live performances organised from time to time. QOpen will produce some interesting pictures to take home. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJEK 10:00 - 02:00. PJ Mai Tai I4, Ploutarchou 18, Kolonaki, MEvangelismos, Capu F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3226844. tel. (+30) 210 7258306. This is a good choice for Kolonaki One of the two bars that have transformed this small arcade beginners in the sense that it doesn’t feel as exclusive as on Lekka street into a buzzing nightspot. The decor is retro- other establishments in the area (without of course being pop and the music is mainly black beat and soul. QOpen completely laid back). Typical Kolonaki crowds enjoy early 10:00 - 04:00. PJ and late drinks: the after work ones, and those who come in later, with a certain number of regulars ‘working’ both En Delphis G3, Delfon 5, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, ‘shifts’. If too much socialising makes you hungry, there is tel. (+30) 210 3608269. In the summer or when weather a Greek Mediterranean selection of dishes to choose from. permits, large crowds occupy the lovely pedestrianised QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. JB street with the neoclassical buildings, situated in this quintessential meeting point of the Athenian bar scene. Nipiagogeio A5, Elasidon & Kleanthous 8, Gazi, Its loyals are neither the posh nor the grungey types that MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3458534. This old and hang around the two districts that it borders, Kolonaki and stylish Athenian house used to be a kindergarten and that’s Exarchia respectively. Basically, a happy medium. QOpen what its name means. It looks quiet from the outside but 10:00 - 02:00. Closed Aug 5-20 PJ that’s only because this is a residential area and many locals have complained about the noise in the past. You Galaxy Bar F4, Stadiou 10, MPanepistimio/Syn- might have to wait in line after midnight as it tends to get tagma, tel. (+30) 210 322 77 33. Vintage at its best, a seriously packed, but that’s the price you have to pay for small bar that has existed in Athens for ever, as reflected good old soul and funk music and wonderful decoration. If in its smoke stained walls and furniture. Original seventies, you want to get more comfy and intimate you might try the with not-so-young regulars, it has a civilised gentleman-like room to your left (as you walk in). It’s almost pitch black in atmosphere, and, as such, it is not recommended for a crazy there. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ night out. Come here instead to experience how people used to enjoy their evenings in an era long gone: fine drinks and Nixon B4, Agisilaou 61, Metaxourgeio, MKerameikos, meaningless conversation. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Closed tel. (+30) 210 3462007. It feels good to be able to take Sun. Closed Aug PJN part in a conversation without having to scream one’s lungs out in order to be heard. DJs wouldn’t exactly fit in the same Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) K5, Vas. Sofias Ave 46, room together but this is why this “film noir” bar attracts MEvangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 728 10 00. Stay away all sorts of types. Minimal decoration for low profile people, if you’re on a budget holiday, but do come along to the roof with better things to do than stare at the couple on the bar of the Athens Hilton if you’re the type who only feels beautiful red leather couch. Tasty nibbles from a limited at home when mingling with important (looking) people, menu in case your stomach begins to grumble. QOpen even if this comes at a price of €15 per drink. A classy bar 21:00 - 03:00. PJA not to be confused with the classic Galaxy on Stadiou Ave. Amazing city view, fine cocktails and delicious finger food, Oinoscent Voulis 44A, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 accompanied by music from top Athenian radio djs, all at 3229374. This is a wine bar and shop where you can taste the…appropriate price. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. PAB top quality Greek wines and rare spirits and take away those you loved most. The wines are carefully selected from large Gazaki A4, Triptolemou 31, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. and independent producers around Greece and there is an (+30) 210 3460901. Those in favour of an evening of impressive list of international labels too. A great place to drinking and hooking up with complete strangers should buy a stylish gift to take home with you only a minute’s walk head for Gazaki. In a neighbourhood crammed with bars, from Syntagma squareQOpen Mon -Thu 10:00 - 12:00, you’ll often find yourself wondering off into the street, glass Fri - Sat 10:00-01:00. PA in hand, only to return a little later to wrap up the evening by knocking back tequila shots and mumbling utter nonsense to Pairidaeza F4, Parnasou 3, MPanepistimio, Syn- the person who as it happened was unfortunate enough to tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3210233. Paradise in Persian. be standing next to you. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ Situated on Karitsi Square, the owners of this bar seem to have a distinct preference for black music. Perhaps that’s Hoxton A4, Voutadon 42, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. their image of the afterlife. A room filled with indie-style (+30) 210 3413395. In Hoxton’s industrial environment, furniture and James Brown effigies singing “it’s too funky in you get the distinctive impression that seamstresses are here”. Should you decide to go out late, past metro opening constantly working behind the Chesterfield couches to hours, don’t worry. Driving there is also an option, courtesy shorten those baggy pants of yours. Pop, rock and electro of an extensive parking lot situated right next to Pairidaeza. glimpses in an environment alluding more to a workhouse. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJ There are quite a few bars just outside the Kerameikos metro station but make no mistake, this club is one of the Potopolion Panormou 113, Ampelokipoi, MPanormou, top hot spots of Athenian nightlife. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. tel. (+30) 210 6911672. Potopolion was the pioneer in an PJ attempt to kick off a new nightlife district: Panormou Street. A wild-west touch, with wood used as the key decorating Intrepid Fox A4, Triptolemou 30, MKerameikos, tel. element. It’s crowded most evenings and its fans are mainly (+30) 210 3466055. With its name borrowed from the students and alternative types. Fun begins around 8 o’clock legendary London club, this new Gazi entry is of course a in the evening and the music is basically rock. QOpen pure rock-metal house. There are hundreds of posters and 17:00 - 02:00. PJB

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Nightlife 31

Priza Bar F4, Christou Lada 1, Karitsi Sq, MPanepis- The James Joyce D5, Astigos 12, Monastiraki, timio, tel. (+30) 210 3244101, www.stinpriza.gr. A MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3235055, fax bar decorated with hundreds of… sockets, promising to (+30) 210 3235070, [email protected], electrify your evenings in Athens. It is fast acquiring its www.jjoyceirishpubathens.com. This is precisely what own fans and becoming a distinct presence around Karitsi was missing from the Athenian scene: A typical Irish pub. square, a neighbourhood with many bars of different styles All major sports events are covered and every weekend that, nonetheless, all cater for selective crowds of the and some week nights artists from around Europe perform city. A different dj takes his place behind the decks every live. The decoration is unpretentious and tasteful: dark evening, playing anything from electronica to house and wood, barrels, porcelain and books. The interesting black freestyle. Just watch your fingers, unless of course you are n’ white liquor trade photos add an extra touch to the desperate for a funky Einstein-reminiscent hairdo! QOpen whole drinking ritual.If your stomach begins to complain, 20:00 - 03:00. PJB order, what else? Fish n’chips. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PJA6IEB Rosebud G4, Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, MPanepis- timio, tel. (+30) 210 3392370. This is a gorgeous artistic Toy Bar F4, Karitsi 10, MPanepistimio/ Syntagma, café-restaurant with Belgian comic-book character Tin-Tin as tel. (+30) 210 3311555. This is a small bar that pio- its wall-tapestries’ motif. In order to get a table you’ll have to neered the nightlife scene around Karitsi Square. A classic be granted three wishes by a genie. Successfully ingenious already, it encompasses three distinctive bars within the snacks are prepared on the first floor, true to the originality of same establishment: In the morning, it serves coffee and the establishment. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA sandwiches, in the late afternoon, it attracts professionals for after work drinks while, in the evening, it transforms Seven Jokers F5, Voulis 7, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) itself into a lively and perennially packed bar with a loyal 210 3219225. A real fun bar for those who want to get clientele that flocks here to enjoy delicious cocktails and sloshed. The owner/bartender puts on an amazing show, listen to excellent music of different genres, depending on with dancing and singing on his everyday menu. Freestylers the resident dj. One of our favourites. QOpen 10:00 - and media staff love it here, but you’ll also get to meet ex- 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Aug 9-18 PJA6 pats as Reuters is at walking distance from here. And when you find yourself awake the next morning on a bench or on Tribeca G3, Skoufa 46, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, one of the bar’s seats with a terrible hangover, just order a tel. (+30) 210 3623541. Young flirty professionals coffee and one of those delicious sandwiches Seven Jokers gather here for after-work drinks to see and be seen by offers in the morning and head off straight to work. QOpen their peers. Music is mainstream, drinks are good but if 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. PJ you arrive dressed as if coming straight from the beach, souvlaki-gyros in hand, you will definitely raise a few eye- Six D.O.G.S. E5, Avramiotou 6-8, MMonastiraki, brows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJA tel. (+30) 2103210510. A completely new concept has taken over Avramiotou Street, a tiny, little road hidden just off Athinas Street. Once the haunt of skaters and general night-time shenanigans with four different bars offering up four very different identities, 6 D.O.G.S has taken over with a bar, an events space as well as a gallery. Hosting a mixture of live and electronic musical events and parties practically on a daily basis, this is one street that’s always got something going on. Good times to be had. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJEB

Tapas Bar A4, Triptolemou 44, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3471844. The Iberian peninsula in the heart of Athens. Start off with interesting Spanish nibbles in the small dining area and end up knocking back the great- est mai tais you’ve tasted since your last trip to Madrid. Funky Tapas bar used to be low profile and selective, but the owners probably thought their setting was big enough to merit a change. They may have to think again. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJA

The Art Foundation (TAF) D5, Normanou 5, Mo- nastiraki, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, www.theartfoundation.gr. Established in 2008, TAF is a relatively new kid on the Monastiraki block, a refreshing and creative endeavour that puts all other art-cum-bar establish- ments to shame. An outdoor bar situated in the courtyard of an exquisitely rundown neoclassical building dating back to 1870, the soothing sound of jazz, cool lighting and lovingly- tended plants make for a vibrant and intellectual atmosphere that attracts the crème-de-la-crème of the Athenian crowd. Its excellent exhibition programme changes frequently and utilises the entire space in a way that would bring any art enthusiast to their knees. One of the best bars Athens has to offer, a nightcap here brings together fine art and even finer conversation. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00. J6B athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 32 Nightlife Gay athens

Sexy Athens Adult Entertainment Alcatraz Syngrou 137, tel. (+30) 210 9316417, www. alcatraz.gr. Some tables are just a breath away from the dancefloor, but if you’re not lucky enough to get one of them, you can watch the show - which is the strong point of this club - on the plasma screens too. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00.

Baby Gold Syngrou 140, tel. (+30) 210 9228902/(+30) 210 9235576, www.babygold.gr. The music is really loud in here and if you forget about the naked beauties all around, you could easily mistake it for a dance club. Things can get re- ally hot (and expensive) if you opt for a private lapdance. Avoid it Fridays and Saturdays and better stick to beer. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15 (one drink included).

Baby O Pireos 171, tel. (+30) 210 3477744, www. baby-o.gr. One of the oldest strip clubs in town, with a really funny DJ whose comments are unfortunately only in Greek! The shows performed by the girls get really hot. Try to get thens is not a European sex destination. However, as a one of the tables next to the dancefloor, you won’t regret it. Abig city, it certainly offers a range of sinful pleasures to Otherwise, the large sofas are roomy enough for all of you its locals and visitors. The legal part of prostitution caters plus the ladies you’ll invite for drinks (€20). Lap dance: €10 to the lower end of the market. Brothels are concentrated QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15. in certain areas of the city such as Metaxourgeio or around Filis St. and are usually seedy establishments housed in Diamond Dolls Syn- old buildings that can be distinguished by a simple light grou 237, tel. (+30) 210 bulb placed at the entrance, which is lit even during the 9421264, www.penth- day. The ladies in most of these have seen better days houseclub.gr. Some of and the prices are accordingly low (€20-€30). the girls in this club could As for illegal prostitution, the cheaper end of the spectrum easily be Playboy bunnies is basically composed of street workers that can be found but the management is not during night hours along Solonos St. and around Theatrou content with them alone Sq. and Evripidou St. just off the Psirri nightlife district. and from time to time calls The latter ones are mostly good looking African girls, in international celebrity illegal immigrants who work the streets for little money showgirls to keep the regu- and very often face organised police raids and disappear lars on the alert. for a few hours in the back streets of the area. Be aware A private dance upstairs that these girls do not necessarily undergo any medical will set you back €50. examinations, which their counterparts in the legal broth- Drinks cost €11, table els are legally bound to undertake. The higher end of the dance €12 QOpen 23:30 market is naturally made up of call girls that publicise their - 06:00. Admission fee: services in many Greek newspapers, thinly disguised as €15. soul mate ads. One of these (foreign) ladies’ hourly visit rates will set you back at least €100. Grand Ritorno K5, Michalakopoulou 52, MMegaro For those with more…‘particular’ tastes, every night along Mousikis, tel. (+30) 210 7245233, www.grandritorno. the right hand by-street of Syngrou Avenue (running from gr. A large number of mostly stunning dancers will happily join the centre of the city down towards Piraeus), boys dressed you for a drink (€20-30) or tabledance for you (€10-50). The as girls (transvestites) take up their posts and wait for their regular shows during the night aren’t exceptional but the ser- clients. Prices negotiated on the spot. vice is polite and the drinks passed our quality tests. QOpen Of course there is always the pure entertainment option: 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15 (one drink included). you can head for one of the numerous strip clubs that spring up in the city like mushrooms, where foreign girls Mousses Club Poseidonos 30, , tel. (+30) 210 will table-dance for you or just keep you company if you 9413079, www.mousses.gr. This club has been around buy them an (expensive) drink (do not expect much more for more than a decade and inevitably has had its ups and than this). Most of these clubs have an ongoing dance downs. It is located a bit further out of the centre, on the way show, some quite explicit. Fortunately, you only pay for to Piraeus but they can arrange a taxi lift from your hotel and what you get and there aren’t frequent cases of ripping back. They also offer 20% discount to tourists, so you call it off like it happens in many other European capitals. a bargain. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €10, (one (Owners wouldn’t want to push their luck, as these clubs drink included). although tolerated aren’t exactly legal). That is not to say that what you get is cheap. Your entrance with one drink costs €10-15, a table dance of 2-3 minutes €10-15 and the ladies’ drinks €20 or more. Most gentlemen’s clubs, post your own nightlife review at as is their self-professed title, are to be found on both sides of Syngrou Avenue and are easily recognisable by their bright neon signs, but you can find them elsewhere www.inyourpocket.com in town too. Your hotel receptionist will probably be able to point you to one of them.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Gay athens 33

thens is by no means New York, Berlin or Amsterdam when Lamda Club F8, Lebesi 15, MAcropolis, tel. 210 Ait comes to homosexuality. It has, however, come a long 9224202. This gay dance club has been around for long way during the last years, especially on the entertainment side enough to be considered a classic. Ground floor is no dif- of things. It seems that the gay community of the city takes ferent to any other dance club but things can get sizzling a less assertive approach than gay people in other western hot in the basement darkroom. Music is mainstream and countries do. This is because Greek society is still overarchingly Greek and they hold frequent events like competitions, conservative, dominated by the Greek Orthodox Church, which lotteries etc. QOpen 23:30 - 05:00. PJ still adamantly opposes the introduction of same-sex marriages in Greece. As a visitor, though, you tend to be looking to have S-Cape Army Academy A4, Megalou Alexandrou a good time rather than resolve the hang-ups of Greek society 139, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. 210 3411003, www.s- and you won’t find yourself short of a wide array of gay bars and cape.gr. A large club with an army theme and a strong clubs . As for our list, there are many more places frequented presence in the gay nightlife scene. It consists of two by gay and lesbians than those who actually call themselves so separate rooms, an outdoors cocktail lounge open in and can be readily identified as gay. Here you’ll find a list of some the weekends, and an indoors club where you can dance classics but if you’re looking for more diversity you can always the night away among its young regulars. The music is head to the Gazi district and follow the crowds. mainstream-dance.(Thursdays are Greek nights) QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.PJ Cafés Sodade A4, Triptolemou 10, Gazi, MKerameikos, Blue Train Café Konstantinoupoleos 84, Gazi, MKer- tel. 210 3468657. Pretty young faces and pure dance ameikos, tel. 210 3460677. This is a romantic bar and music make this place one of the most popular ‘straight its outdoor tables boast of a hard to beat décor: Real trains friendly’ clubs in town. Both its rooms are packed during passing by every so often! Perfect for early drinks but you weekends and the party doesn’t stop till early morning may find yourself still lingering at its tables long after the last hours. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. PJ sleeper train has departed to the north. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB Saunas Myrovolos C3, Giatrakou 12, Avdi Sq, Metaxourgio, Alexander Sauna A4, Megalou Alexandrou 134, MMetaxourgio, tel. 210 5228806. A favourite lesbian Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 6980282/ all-day hangout tucked away in a lovely hidden square that (+30) 6936959134, www.alexandersauna.com. A gives you the feeling of a small country town. There is food gay meeting point of high standards and great attention on offer if after a few coffees or drinks you’re having such a to hygiene and service. There is a large cruising area, relaxing time that you’re too lazy to move on. QOpen 11:00 a cozy patio and the largest dark “X-action” playroom in - 03:00. PB town. Friendly staff provide high quality service. There are theme days, events and happenings (including Bars international porn stars). Sun: Cruising Spa fun, Mon: Sports, Tue: Bear, Wed: underwear, Thu: Mixed ages, Fri: Big A4, Iera Odos 67 & Falesias, Gazi, MKerameikos, Go go boys, Sat: Drag show & go go Dancers) Q tel. 6946 282845, www.bigbarathens.gr. Athenian bears Open found their favourite hang out in this friendly and unassuming 17:00 - 03:00, Fri-Sun 19:00 - 07:00, . Admission fee: bar, appropriately located just off Gazi and the model-faced and €15, Happy hour 17:00-19:0: €10. Three visits tourist PJDC bodied gay crowds that frequent the district’s bars. Drinks are pass: €35. cheap, the atmosphere is friendly and there are frequent events M and parties. Every Tuesday is Greek night and every Thursday Flex Fetish Sauna E4, Polyklitou 6, Monastiraki, tel. 210 3210539. www.myspace.com/flexsaun- rock QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PJ agym Gym and sauna under the same roof in the centre of the city. 3 saunas, 2 jacuzzis, a steam room and 100 My Bar E5, Kakourgiodikiou 6, Psiri, MMonastiraki, tel. sqm gym, will keep you busy for hours. A new ‘military (+30) 6932 338551, www.mybar.gr. A fine cocktail bar out- style’ floor with a relax area just opened a few months side the gay district of Gazi with minimal decoration, reasonably ago. They also offer free solarium and internet in a spot- priced drinks, finger food and different music every night. The lessly clean environment and a new roof garden. Bear crowds are young, trendy and friendly. Look out for their special day every WednesdayQ theme parties QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ Open 14:00 - 03:00, weekends 14:00-07:00. Admission fee: €15, Happy hour: €10. PJRD Clubs Kazarma A3, Konstantinopoleos 84 (1st floor), Gazi, Apartments MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3460667. A small but vibrant gay club with a youthful and sexy clientele of all ages and walks Alexander Apartments A4, Megalou Alexandrou M of life. The music is mainstream (every Thursday is Greek night) 134, Gazi, Kerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 6980282/ and as soon as the weather permits its superb roof garden (+30) 6936959134,www.alexander-apartments.gr Alexander apartments are located in the inner heart of becomes one of the top gay meeting points in the city. QOpen the gay area, Gazi, and are just above Alexander Sauna. 23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Tue. PJB They are newly constructed and offer a relaxing accom- Noiz A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi, MKerameikos, modation. They are fully air-conditioned with TV, free tel. (+30) 210 3224771, www.noizclub.gr. A warm and WiFi, private bathroom, kitchen with refrigerator and living friendly girls’ bar brought to you by a pioneer team in the gay room. All guests have free access to the Alexander Sauna and lesbian nightlife scene of Athens. The atmosphere is cozy facilities PJRD and flirty and you’ll immediately make friends with the welcom- ing staff and customers. Music is mixed and there are frequent www.greekgayguide.eu / www.gaygreece.gr happenings making this bar a top nightlife destination. QOpen www.athenspride.eu / www.lesbian.gr 10:00 - 04:00. PJ athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 34 What to see What to see

Monuments & Archaeological Sites

Ancient Athens by J Buhlmann

ambitious urban planning projects ever. This has seen the thens is known the world over for its ancient monu- creation of 3-km long pedestrian walkway-archaeological ments - and no visit to the city would be complete with- A park in the centre of the densely inhabited modern city, with out seeing its most iconic landmark, the Acropolis. Dating whole areas (such as the East, West and North Slopes of back to the 5th century BC, the Acropolis is made up of the the Acropolis, the Western Hills and the Library of Hadrian) Parthenon, the , the restored and now open to visitors. and the , and embodies the highest ideals of In all, the pedestrianised site covers more than 1,000,000 Ancient Athens - harmony, beauty, proper measure, liberty, sq.m. The project won 3rd prize (Diploma) in the ‘Conser- knowledge, virtuous competition and democracy. vation of Cultural Landscapes’ category of the annual The Acropolis and its surrounding area - including the European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra Acropolis Slopes, the Ancient Agora, the , the Awards in 2005. The pedestrianised zone formed by Dio- and the Hills of the Muses, the Roman Agora and nysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou streets hosts Library of Hadrian - are at the historical heart of the city. cultural events, including an annual summer Book Fair Walking through them, it doesn’t take too much imagination and art exhibitions. The Theatre of Herodus Atticus is to picture Ancient Athens as it was back then. The monu- also an important venue for theatrical, musical and dance ments are intrinsically linked with the birth of Democracy performances, giving visitors the opportunity to experience and they symbolise a precious part of the cultural heritage a unique blend of ancient and modern civilisation. Greeks of Greece and western civilisation ever since. Those ide- are rightly proud of their heritage and they are keen to als have echoed down through the centuries and can still share it with the world, so special consideration is given be heard today. to providing visitors with information, with detailed signs, The Middle Ages and Ottoman Period, however, were try- publications, leaflets, guides and audiovisual material in ing times for the Acropolis and its surrounding sites. They English and Greek. Educational programmes are also avail- suffered as a result of natural disasters like earthquakes, able to introduce children to Athens’ unique monuments but more so at the hands of man. Some monuments were and raise awareness of the importance of respecting and reused as palaces, churches, and residential protecting the cultural heritage they represent. areas. But perhaps the greatest damage occurred when Though Athens is generally not an easy city to get around an explosion rocked the Acropolis during Morosini’s siege for people with mobility problems, efforts have been made in 1687, and (as many Greeks will tell you) as a result of at the Acropolis with an arrangement of pathways with Lord Elgin’s looting of the marbles (1801-1803). These ramps at specific locations to enable such visitors to visit events irreversibly altered the face of the Acropolis more - or at least view - the most important monuments, and the than anything else in its long history. installation of a lift on the North Slope means that disabled Exploration and excavation of the sites began a few years visitors can now get a close-up view for the first time. after the establishment of the Greek state in 1834, and UNESCO proclaimed the Acropolis site a World Heritage continued until about the middle of the 20th century. Monument in 1987. The administration of the sites is Important restoration programmes are now underway funded by National Resources, while the majority of the on several monuments. In 1997, the sites around the restoration programmes and the project for the Unifica- Acropolis were included in the project for the ‘Unification of tion of the archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis the Archaeological Sites of Athens’, one of the city’s most is co-funded by the EU.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 35

The Erechtheion on the Acropolis Rock. The Caryatids are replicas of the original ones housed in the new Museum , MAcropolis, tel. 210 3210219. 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great or City Dionysia Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m., the Acropolis of Athens celebrations. Here too was the , one of is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted the world’s most ancient theatres, where the works of the Ae- to a natural site to form what has become a model worldwide schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. The same and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important archaeological area is also home to the Odeion of Pericles, religious centre and its monuments, (the Parthenon, the ancient Athens’ first roofed building for musical contests, Erechtheion, the Propylaea -the monumental entrance to the the sanctuary of the healing god Asklepius founded in the Acropolis- and the small Temple of Athena Nike) have become 5th century BC, the Stoa given to the city in 160 B.C. by the an important symbol of ’s bequest to Europe king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, various monuments donated and the world.The first signs of occupation on the ‘sacred by sponsors of theatrical performances such as the Monu- rock’ of the Acropolis date back to the Neolithic period (2nd ment of Lysicrates, and the Odeion of Herodus Atticus, built millennium BC). In Mycenaean times (1200-1100BC) it was in the 2nd century AD. With the predominance of Christianity, the seat of the king, whose palace stood roughly where the especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the Erechtheion was built many centuries later. After the 11th South Slope were reconsecrated as Christian monuments. century BC until the end of Antiquity, it was home to the cult The East Slope is dominated by the cave of Aglauros, where of Athena, patron goddess of the city that took her name. the Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the There, Athena was worshipped at majestic temples, brilliant sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the buildings and a vast number of votive monuments. The most most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring renowned were built in the second half of the 5th century of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the BC, when Athens took a lead among the ancient world’s city Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave states, following important victories against the Persians sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the and the establishment of Democracy. In the golden age that cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite followed, thought and art flourished, and an exceptional group and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas. of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias. The most important monuments were built during that time: www.theotheracropolis.com the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), the Erechtheion, The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and what we have learned to believe. The collective behind the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to intro- (421-406BC), the Propylaea - the monumental entrance to duce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the the Acropolis designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) - and the sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our small temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC). QAdmission: €12, Concessions: €6 (4 day pass). perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on The Slopes of the Acropolis D6,D7,E7, The 70,000 the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”. sq.m. archaeological site of the Slopes of the Acropolis extends around the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis. After An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out the Acropolis itself, the Slopes were the most important before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like religious centre of ancient Athens. The sanctuary of Dio- to go a bit deeper than the surface. nysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 36 What to see What to see

Hadrian’s Gate The Roman Agora

The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian E5, The 28,000 sq.m. site of the Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian includes the two large Roman monu- Hadrian’s Gate F7, Amalias Ave. Built by Athenians ments north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient in honour of the the Roman Governor Hadrian 131AD, the Agora. The Roman Agora was the centre of commercial gate bears two inscriptions - the first, facing the Acropo- activity of the city during Roman times, while the Library lis, reads ‘This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus’, of Hadrian housed the state archives and philosophical and the other, facing the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Academies and was its spiritual, educational and cultural the centre of the Roman city, reads ‘This is the city of centre. The Roman Agora was constructed by the Roman Hadrian and not of Theseus’. The monument attempts emperor Augustus (between 19 and 11 BC) to accom- to harmoniously combine architectural elements typical modate the commercial enterprises of the city, with of both Roman (such as the arch) and Greek (colonnades) shops, storerooms and offices. The Library of Hadrian traditions. was built as part of a project to re-design Athens by Hadrian in 132 AD to house the city’s largest library, the state archives and philosophical schools. The site also The Ancient Agora D5, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. features monuments such as the Water Clock (Horolo- 210 3210185. The Agora was the heart of the public life of gion) or - with its ornate sculpted the city - its religious, political and commercial centre, where depictions of wind-gods, wind vanes, sundials and a was born and flourished. The Agora was complicated internal water-clock - built around 50BC by a large, open square that provided a forum for social and Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes, as well cultural activity, commercial exchange, religious festivals, as the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomeion open-air theatrical performances and athletic contests. and the Fethiye (Tzami). North of the Roman From the 6th century BC, the area was gradually surrounded Agora is the Medrese (Seminary) and to the south the by public buildings that were rebuilt over the course of some Mosque. A section of the Late Roman fortification wall 800 years while the Agora remained the centre of Athens. It and a four-apse early Christian can be seen within the was traversed by the Panathenaic Way and by the West Road. Library of Hadrian. Tradition has it that Europe’s first law court in Europe was on the Areopagus, next to the Ancient Agora. The nearby hill of the Pnyx is another unique site, where the meetings of the Assembly of the ‘Demos’ (Public Assembly of the Citizens), The Western Hills C6,7, The Western Hills (Hill of the Muses were held. The Ancient Agora and Areopagus site covers an or Philopappus Hill, the Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs) site area of about 400,000 sq.m. northwest of the Acropolis. covers 680,000 sq.m. to the west of the Acropolis. It was an Q Admission: €12 (or pass) Concessions: €6 important and densely inhabited section of the ancient city, with many important road axes. The Pnyx is dominated by the site where meetings of the Assembly of the Demos, the principal www.parthenonfrieze.gr institution of Athenian Democracy, were held. Philopappus Hill is crowned by the monument of the same name as well as a Hats off to the Ministry of Culture and everyone else modern Observatory. The Philopappus monument is a funer- involved in this unusual for the Greek public sector hi-tech ary stele erected in 114-116AD by the Athenians in honour effort. If you are an archaeology buff, just interested or of Caius Julius Antiochus ‘Philopappus’, the exiled prince of want your kids to spend some pleasant yet useful time Commagene (a kingdom in south-east Asia Minor that had just online then check out this great interactive application: been conquered by the Roman Empire).This area, mythically www.parthenonfrieze.gr. You will see details of the connected with the Amazonomachy, was first inhabited during Parthenon in 3D, take thematic interactive tours, learn the 6th century BC. During the 5th century BC, it was one of the about the frieze, play games, puzzles etc and download most densely populated parts of ancient Athens including two interesting brochures with useful information about the well-known ‘demes’ (districts), Melite and Koile. The ancient Koile monument. road, running from Athens to the port of Piraeus, was a most important commercial and strategic thoroughfare.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 37

The Parthenon Opening Hours! Every summer the opening hours of most museums and archaeological sites are longer and usually 8:00 - 19:00. But this year, due to the economic crisis, fewer seasonal staff was hired and many museums remain understaffed. As a result their opening hours vary. It is generally advisable to visit them in the morning or call each place before your visit.

Lysikrates Monument

Parthenon E6, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3214172. Built between 447-437BC, during the ‘Golden Age’ of Athens under Pericles, the Parthenon is a world famous sight. Its design harmoniously combines the Doric and Ionic orders, and its architectural and structural details and the precision in the carving of the marble are a testament to the expertise in the artisans that created it. Further, the décor of the Parthenon and its surrounding monu- ments had a profound and lasting influence on Western art (especially sculpture and portraiture), as it depicted the human form in an individualised manner for the first time. These artistic innovations fuelled developments that influenced the art of Hellenistic and Roman times, as well as the Renaissance, Baroque, Romanticism and Neoclassicism. QAdmission: €12, Concessions: €6 (four day pass)

Panathenaic Stadium Lysikrates Monument F7, Lysicratous Square and Tripodon St, Plaka, MSyntagma. This monument com- memorates the support of its benefactor-founder of a the- atrical performance at the nearby theatre of Dionysus, the earliest theatre in the world - that’s the answer in case you wonder just what that strange structure on Tripodon Street is. It was built in 335BC by Lysicrates and is also known as the “Lantern of Diogenes” in reference to its unusual shape. The circular building rests on a square shaped limestone podium and includes a portico of six Corinthian columns. It also has a frieze featuring the life of Dionysos, the god of wine and revelry. In 1669, the structure was handed over to Capucin monks, who used it as a study room. The Lysicrates Panathenaic Stadium H7, Arditos Hill, tel. 210 monument is the best preserved of its kind, mainly due to 3251744. A Stadium existed on this site from as early the efforts of French archaeologists Fr. Boulanget and E. as the 4th century BC, when it was used for the mystical Loviot who restored the area in 1887. Ceremonies held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour of Athena, patron-goddess of the City of Athens. Roman governor Hadrian had also constructed a Stadium at this site, where gladiatorial contests and shows were put on for Temple of Olympian Zeus the Athenian public. The ancient Stadium was completely restored, as an exact replica of the Ancient Stadium, in the Temple of Olympian Zeus F7, Vasilissis Olgas & late 19th century, in order to host the first modern Olympiad Amalias, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9226330. Construc- (1896). During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, this tion of the temple began in the 6th century BC under the gleaming white Pentelic-marble Stadium provided the venue tyrants Hippias and Hipparchos, at the site of the ruins of for the archery event as well as for the culmination of the an earlier temple built by their father, the tyrant Peisistra- Marathon Run. The stadium opened its doors again last tus. The Temple stood unfinished throughout the ‘Golden April. A free audio guide in ten languages gives visitors all Century’ of Athens and was only completed by Roman the information about the history of this landmark monu- governor Hadrian, known as the ‘Philhellene’, in 132AD. ment. QAdmission: €3 The Temple was huge by ancient standards, rivalling other colossal famous Temples such as the Heraion in , and featured a large gold and ivory statue of Zeus in its A four day pass costing €12 (concessions €6) will get cella. Today, only fifteen of its original 104 columns are still you in: The Acropolis, the Ancient Agora & museum, standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it Kerameikos & museum, the Roman Agora, Acropolis’ fell during a storm in the 19th century. QAdmission: €2, North & South Slopes and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Free for pass holders. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 38 What to see What to see

Acropolis view from the Museum’s Parthenon Gallery VK

sanctuary of the Nymphs give Acropolis Museum Guide a complete overview of the he Acropolis Museum has proven to be a massive different terracotta painting Tsuccess as was expected. Receiving 90,000 visitors techniques used in ancient in its opening week alone, the monumental complex Greece, something pottery buzzes daily with the excited chatter of visitors from all buffs will delight in, while the over the world, eager to see the rich collection of artefacts collection of unusual, figura- discovered in and around the ancient Acropolis hill. With tive vases with three-dimensional bodies worked onto the light, space and angular lines, the museum design and its surface are also a hit with visitors. Pieces from the Sanctuary perfect view of the Acropolis, honours the history of this of Dionysus’ temple frieze reveal magnificent workmanship ancient site and its treasures. It is divided into historically- that expertly transformed dense marble into flowing fabrics defined sections that put the ancient site into context: draped over dancing women. Theatrical masks and a statue of Old Silenus carrying a young Dionysus on his shoulders The Ancient Neighbour- allows one to go back in time to see what a temple to an hood: Built on the remains enigmatic and flamboyant god would have looked like. of an Athenian neighbour- hood, the remnants of streets, The Archaic Gallery, houses, workshops and baths 1st Floor: The Archaic Gal- are clearly visible through the lery paints a vibrant picture transparent floors and viewing of Athens and the Acropolis areas at the entrance to the before the refinement of the museum. Walking into the Classical era, expressed in the museum, the neighbourhood Archaic Parthenon’s pediment continues below, a reminder that dominates the gallery’s entrance. A stark contrast to of the history that lies beneath the highly-classical figures of the Parthenon, the archaic one of the world’s most his- style is exemplified in the size and scope of its centrepiece torical cities. - a magnificent sculpture depicting two gargantuan lions devouring a bull. Those archaic sculptors certainly had a The Gallery of the Slopes of the Acropolis: Pro- talent for depicting animals – seek out the hunting dog if vides an insight into the ancient Athenian daily life, with you aren’t convinced. Then, after animals come statues of display cases lining an ascending ramp that mirrors the slope women – lots of them. Reflective of the worship of a female leading to the Acropolis. Keep your eyes down – a collec- deity, some 200 ‘Korai’ were discovered on the Acropolis, tion of ceramic bowls, wine glasses and plates discovered many with the traces of the original paint that decorated buried in the floor of a house dating to the 3rd Century BC the expertly carved fabric chitons clothing their stylistic are encased in the museum floor at the gallery’s entrance. (and voluptuous) bodies. Nearby, the pediment of the An- Amongst the artefacts from households, what really puts cient Temple - which replaced the old geometric temple things into perspective are unfinished statues and clay (close to the site of the Parthenon) around the time of the moulds – a touch of reality behind the mythical figurines of abolishment of tyranny in 508/507 BC – tells the story of ancient times. Votive offerings of ‘loutrophorai’, or vessels the Gigantomachy, the war between the gods and rebelling that carry bathwater to the nuptial bath, taken from the giants. A warlike Athena is shown with her cloak made of

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 39

snakes, though the real triumph here is the work that went dating to the 5th/4th Century BC, with black lines running into restoration efforts – the plaster casts that complete the from her expressive inlaid eyes, she seems to be crying, while statues are second to none. a marble sphere dating to the 3rd/2nd BC carved with magic symbols and icons suggests we are looking at something that was just as much a mystery to the ancients as it is to those looking upon it today.

Caryatids from an angle never seen before VK

The Propylaia, Erectheion and Temple of the The magnificent Parthenon Gallery VK Athena Nike, 1st Floor: After the Archaic temple comes one of the crowning jewels of the Acropolis complex and the The Parthenon Gallery, 3rd floor: The Parthenon Museum – the famous Caryatids – female sculptures that Gallery is where visitors can truly appreciate the museum acted as columns on the Erectheion temple’s porch. Built on design and its intentions. Built with the precise geometry the site of the geometric period temple to Athena Polias (the and dimensions of the Parthenon, one can admire the inner Ancient Temple) which had been destroyed by the Persians, frieze, the outer metopes and the crowning pediments the Erectheion is known for its irregular design, in part due while looking towards the Parthenon itself, perched atop to the irregular surface of the rock as well as the need to the Acropolis hill. Finally, it feels like the pieces have found a protect the remains of ancient cults, a mark of respect after home worthy of their stature, and a walk around this exhibi- the Persian-induced destruction to the Acropolis, something tion hall evokes the magnificence of the mighty structure. the ancient Greeks never forgot. Another special aspect of Nevertheless, the spectacular exhibition space invokes this display is that rather than being sealed off in a glass, as mixed feelings. Many of the displayed pieces are replicas of was the case in the , the Caryatids can fragments housed mainly in the British Museum, though the finally be enjoyed in the round, an illustration of the museum’s conspicuous gaps in the gallery make the frieze found behind dedication to bringing its exhibits to life. This is evident in the the west pediment appear all the more miraculous – bar one temple of Athena Nike’s frieze exhibit– a scaled arrange- missing piece, this section is made up entirely of fragments ment of how the frieze would appear on the temple itself, belonging to the museum. The shame in the situation is which most people pass as they enter the Acropolis through unavoidable, particularly when most of the breathtaking the Propylaia without a second glance. A number of reliefs pediment sculptures - especially on the west pediment - are are also on display, taken from the Nike temple’s balustrade, plaster casts. However, the cast makers’ excellent work, is the Sandal-binding Nike being a glorious example of superb also apparent in the expert reconstruction of the floral ak- relief-carving, with luscious fabrics draped over an even more roterion that once crowned the Parthenon’s east pediment. lusciously carved out body. Indeed, regardless of the debate, the work that has gone 5th Century BC. – 5th Century AD, 1st floor: into the museum is unquestionable, something eloquently Representing periods in the expressed in the bewitched faces of its visitors - history really does come alive here. Acropolis’ history from the Helle- nistic period, the Roman period, and the advent of Christianity, classical art lovers will admire the face of the cult statue of Ar- temis Brauronia by Praxiteles, one of the most celebrated attic sculptors of the 4th Century BC. In fact, faces are the real winner in this section, with a collection of portrait busts allowing visitors to gaze into the intricately carved Original and replica: Spot the difference! VK faces of historical figures such as a young Alexander the Great, as well as Lucius Verrus, Agrippina the Younger, Emperor Acropolis Museum E7 Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Caracalla, his wife Plautillia and a rather handsome portrait MAcropoli, tel. 210 9000901, info@theacropolis- of a Barbarian from the 3rd quarter of the 2nd Century AD museum.gr, www.theacropolismuseum.grQOpen exhibited in the Roman period – who knew savages could 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00-22:00 ,Closed Mon, Admission look so refined? This section also contains the museum’s fee: €5. We recommend you reserve tickets on-line in most curious exhibits - a haunting marble face of a woman order to avoid queues. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 40 What to see What to see

Archaeological Museum Other Museums Battleship Averoff Marina Flisvos, Trokadero, tel. 210 9888211, , www.bsaverof.com. This late 19th century battleship has today been converted into a Naval Museum, showcasing the history of the Greek Navy and honouring the servicemen who died during naval engagements during its time of service, the first half of the twentieth century. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 13:00 & 18:00-20:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 & 18:00-20:00.

Benaki Museum H5, Koubari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3671000, fax 210 3671063, [email protected], www.benaki.gr. Housed in a beautiful neoclassical building, this reputable private Museum houses a vast collection of finds from Prehistoric down to early twen- tieth century Greece. It regularly hosts periodic thematic exhibitions that are generally highly regarded and attract large National Archaeological Museum Patision (28th numbers of visitors. Its permanent collection is vast - indeed, October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax 210 this is simultaneously an Archaeological, Byzantine and Folk 8213573, [email protected]. The National Archaeologi- Culture Museum - yet also very instructive, thanks to the well- cal Museum is set in a characteristic hefty neoclassical organised exhibition structure. The café-restaurant extends to building, designed by L. Lange and remodelled by P. Kalkos, the roof-terrace and offers uninterrupted views of the Acropolis H. Vlachos and E. Ziller (built 1866-1889), housing a and Lycabettus Hill. The Museum shop also provides an on-line unique, recently refurbished, collection of sales service. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun art and artefacts. Its more than 20,000 exhibits show- 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €6. case the development of Greek civilisation from Prehistory down to the late Roman era. There are vast collections Byzantine and Christian Museum Vasilissis Sofias of finds from the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Cycladic and 22, tel. 210 7232178. Set in a beautiful building, sur- Mycenaean periods (Prehistoric Collection) including: rounded by a serene courtyard -a leisurely outdoor stroll is a the famous gold mask attributed to Agamemnon, finds must- this Museum offers visitors the opportunity to explore from the prehistoric settlement on the island of Thera the way of life, art, religious practices and customs of the () - including wonderfully preserved colourful Byzantine and Medieval periods in Greece. It is especially wall-murals; the Sculpture Collection (7th-5th centu- instructive as regards the intricate interconnections underly- ries BC) showcasing many internationally-acclaimed ing the symbolisms of the pagan -ancient- and early Christian masterpieces of the genre, some of which attributed periods, revealing lesser-known facets of this transition. to Praxiteles’ workshop, the Near Eastern Antiquities The Museum also houses a very important collection of Collection; as well as the Metallurgy and Vase & Minor Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons and frescoes. A gift Objects Collections. shop is available. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €4. Two of its newest exhibits include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and a 6th century BC marble statue of Epigraphical Museum F1, Tositsa 1, MOmonia, a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Victoria, tel. 210 8232950, fax 210 8225733, ema@ Museum in California and conspicuously displayed. culture.gr. This Museum houses the leading collection of Another major highlight is its renowned Egyptian Collec- ancient Greek inscriptions and it is the largest of its kind in tion, 1,100 priceless items of which were recently put the world. Decrees, tribute lists, records, all have their place on permanent exhibition following years in the Museum’s in this interesting archival Museum. It is housed in the south vast underground storage areas. Considered one of the wing ground floor of the National Archaeological Museum. foremost Egyptian collections worldwide, its star items It comprises an internal and external courtyard (atrium), a include a wooden body tag for a mummy, the bronze lobby, eleven rooms, a large hypostyle corridor, a gallery, statue of Princess-Priestess Takushit (c. 670BC) adorned offices and a laboratory for the conservation of inscribed with a gown strewn with hieroglyphs, a 3,000-year-old stone monuments. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. preserved loaf of bread (with a bite-sized chunk miss- Free admission. ing!) and other intact organic materials, as well as a rare bronze miniature figurine depicting an African boy Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient at a street market. The Stathatos Collection was also Greek Art Neophytou Douka 4, MSyntagma, tel. 210 recently brought up from storage and put on display, 7228321 - 3, fax 210 7239382, [email protected], mainly showcasing ancient jewellery. www.cycladic-m.gr/. This small Museum is housed both in an appealing modern building as well as in a stunningly There are plans for the future underground expansion of beautiful neoclassical edifice and includes one of the best the Museum’s permanent exhibition spaces, but these and most representative collections of worldwide are not expected to materialise any time soon. It also (from the Cycladic group of islands in the Aegean, third millen- periodically houses temporary exhibitions. Its amenities nium BC), as well as a smaller selection of Bronze Age, Minoan, include a coffee-shop/restaurant in the pleasant atrium Mycenaean, Geometric, Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic in the basement area, Museum shop, conference facilities items, including very well-preserved black-figure pottery. It and modern conservation workshops. also regularly hosts interesting periodic exhibitions. Ameni- ties include a children’s area, Museum shop and agreeable Q Admission fee €7, concessions €3. café-restaurant in the cozy atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €5, Saturdays: €2.5, 18-26: €1.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 41

Herakleidon-Experience in Visual Arts C5, Heraklei- don 16, MThissio, tel. 210 3461981, fax 210 3458225, [email protected], www.herakleidon-art.gr. This excellent private Museum is housed in an attractive listed neoclassical building in the busy heart of the trendy Thissio district. It regularly houses periodic visual arts exhibitions focusing on the work of important twentieth century artists, NEW EXHIBITION such as M.C. Escher and V. Vasarely. Don’t leave without a visit to the giftshop. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €6, concessions: €4. 25.6 25.9 2011 Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum E7, Karyatidon & Kalisperi, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9221044, fax 210 9237358, [email protected], www. CONTEMPORARY VIEW lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr. This is a private non-profit foundation devoted to the historical development of the art of jewelry. It is located at the foot of the Acropolis, in a ANCIENT CULTURES picturesque neoclassical building. Its permanent collection comprises more than 4000 items of jewelry, designed by its founder Ilias Lalaounis (1940-2000). Many items in its collec- tion have been inspired by the art of ancient and , Europe, America and Asia, as well as from nature and from scientific discourse. It also provides educational facili- ties such as a library and jewelry-making workshop, as well as seminars designed for students. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €4, concessions: 2,30 €Free admission for members and children under 10Free admission on Wednesdays after 15.00 & Saturday 9.00 - 11.00.

Islamic Art Museum C4, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12, MThissio, tel. 210 3251311, fax 210 3225550, [email protected], www.benaki.gr. This recently opened annex of the , housed in an elegant neoclassical building complex in the historic heart of Athens, near the ancient Kerameikos cemetery, displays a fine collection of Islamic art from the Near East, Middle East, Far East and North Africa, from the 12th to the 19th centuries. It presents the evolution of Islamic art in relation to the historic development of Islamic civilisation. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €5, concessions: €3. © Jan de Bie, spell to turn into a swallow 2006, linocut © Jan de Bie, spell to turn into a swallow 2006, linocut Jewish Museum F6, Nikis 39, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3225582, fax 210 3231577, [email protected], www.jewishmuseum.gr. This is a historical and ethno- graphic Museum that aims to preserve, explore and present the material evidence related to the historic Jewish community in Greece. It holds more than 8000 artefacts showcasing the secular and religious history and way of life of Jews in Greece. M.C. Escher room A giftshop is also available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 from the Museum’s Collection - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission fee: €5, concessions €3.

Kerameikos Museum B4, Ermou 148, MThissio, tel. 210 3463552. Displays the important archaeological finds Museum unearthed at the adjacent ancient Kerameikos cemetery, such as funeral urns, funerary monuments (‘stelai’) and pot- tery items, aptly illustrating the funerary customs of ancient Athenian society. There are a number of impressive pottery items and funerary monuments in its collection. QOpen 16 Herakleidon str. (close to Apostolou Pavlou Str.) 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00. Admission fee: €2, conces- Thissio, Athens 118 51 • Metro: Thissio sions:€1, students, under 19 yrs: free. Tel.: 210 3461981 www.herakleidon.com / [email protected]

Museum hours: www.culture.gr Tues.-Sat. 13:00-21:00, Sun. 11:00 -19:00, Monday Closed The Museum will be closed from 1/8 until 22/8/2011 athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 42 What to see What to see

Museum of the City of Athens / Vouros-Eutaxias War Museum Foundation F4, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3231397, fax 210 3220765, http://www.ath- enscitymuseum.gr/. This Museum, inaugurated in 1973 by benefactors Lambros Eutaxias and his uncle Alexandros Vouros, is housed in the stately mansion that was the resi- dence of Otto, the first King of Athens and his wife Amalia, from 1837 up to 1843, and its first floor is dedicated to their memory. It seeks to present the modern history of the city of Athens, since it became capital of the nascent in 1834, up to the present day. Among its collections are works of art, items of furniture and household objects, as well as complete reconstructions of typical late 19th - early 20th century living and sitting rooms of the Athenian aristo- cratic elite. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €3, Concessions: €2. War Museum I5, Rizari 2, MEvangelismos. Dedi- cated to the history and practice of warfare, it holds an Museum of Traditional Musical Instruments E6, important collection of war memorabilia from the Myce- Diogenous 1-3, Plaka, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3254119, naean Period up to present-day Greece, with special focus fax 210 3250198. Housed in a simple neoclassical three- on the Second World War, the War in Korea and the Cyprus storey building in a serene quarter of Plaka, this Museum War. The architecture of the building itself is very original, houses one of the foremost collections of traditional musical as it is one of the most representative examples of the instruments in Europe. Exhibits are accompanied by sound avant-garde architectural movement in Athens during recordings, allowing you to experience the sound of each the 1950s. The historical fighter planes at the entrance instrument, as well as its musical combination with other are also worth seeing. QOpen 09;00 - 14:00. Closed instruments. Information is provided on how the instruments Mon. Free admission. are created. There is a large library for dedicated scholars in the adjacent Research Centre for Ethnomusicology. Musical recitals are sometimes held in the garden. A giftshop selling Museum of Contemporary Art Fratzi 14 (man- traditional music CDs and musical instruments is also avail- agement), tel. 210 9242111-2, fax 210 9245200, able. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00. Closed [email protected] (as yet not housed at a permanent Mon. Free admission. address - the building was originally due for completion by the end of 2009 - but exhibitions take place in an array of Military Park, , various establishments as circumstances permit, mainly MKatechaki, tel. 210 7709855. This recently opened at the New Wing of the Athens Concert Hall). The Museum annex of the National Gallery holds its important Sculpture of Contemporary Art, since it begun operating in 2000 Collection, including works by acclaimed Greek and inter- -albeit its as yet nomadic existence- has organised some national artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. Interesting very successful exhibitions, that have remained true to temporary exhibitions are frequently organised. QOpen its mission to showcase the transcultural, experimental/ 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission exploratory and thought-provoking aspects of contemporary fee: €6, Concessions: €3. international art. National Historical Museum F4, Stadiou 13, F6, Kydathinaion 17, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3237617. Housed in the imposing Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3229031, fax 210 historical building that was Greece’s first House of Parlia- 3226979, [email protected]. From the 17th century to ment, this Museum tells the story of Greece since the fall the present, this Museum preserves, records, exhibits and of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, with special focus on the presents the history and evolution of Greek folk art. Among War of Independence (1821-1829), through to the mid 19th its exhibits are embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes, century. The commanding statue of Theodoros Kolokotro- household items (such as the intricate ‘stamps’ used for nis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Independence, embossing and decorating bread during traditional festivals), proudly greets visitors to the Museum. Among its invaluable shadow-theatre puppets (the famous ‘Karaghiozis’), as well exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes, flags, as silver, wood and stone carvings. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. paintings, religious icons, royal portraits and weapons. A Closed Mon. Admission fee: €2, consessions: €1. giftshop is available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.

Museum of the Ancient Agora D5, Adrianou 24, New Benaki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos, MThissio, tel. 210 3210185. Housed in the renovated tel. 210 3453111, www.benaki.gr. This recently opened ‘’ (dating to 150BC) within the archaeological annex to the Benaki Museum is situated in an ex-industrial site of the Ancient Agora, it is a veritable Museum of the and underprivileged strip spanning Piraeus Str and extend- History of Democracy, showcasing items linked with the ing to the Gazi area, which is fast transforming itself into a development of Athenian public and commercial life, civic veritable hub of experimental and avant-garde artistic activ- emancipation and democratic institutions, from antiquity ity. Housed in a tasteful building that gracefully combines up until the birth of the modern Greek State. There are simplicity and an imposing aspect and provides a most a number of world-acclaimed ceramic items and statues welcome contrast to its rather neglected surroundings, among its collections, such as the colossal statue of Apollon this Museum is well worth a visit if you wish to take in what Patroos (c. 330BC). The models of the Ancient Agora (com- Athens has to offer as far as modern and contemporary art mercial centre), Acropolis and Pnyx (public meeting area) are exhibitions are concerned. As well as its regularly alternating very illuminating as regards the city’s ancient topography. temporary exhibitions, it also periodically hosts alternative QOpen 08:00 - 16:45, Mon 11:00 - 16:45. Admission fee: drama performances by independent unconventional theatre €4, concessions: €2.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 43

companies. The Museum Shop is well worth a visit if you’re looking for original and creative -though a tad expensive- gift The Art Foundation (TAF) ideas, while the café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and lovely freshly - made salads. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Numismatic Museum G4, Panepistimiou 12, MSyn- tagma, tel. 210 3643774, fax 210 3635953, protocol@ nm.culture.gr, www.nma.gr. Its exhibits include more than 600,000 coins spanning a period from antiquity to the early modern era. It is housed in the mansion of Heinrich Schli- emann, discoverer of the Mycenaean treasure, which was designed by the famous architect Ernst Chiller during the late 19th century. Its amenities include conservation laboratories, a well-equipped library, a hall that houses temporary exhibi- tions and a Museum shop. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €3, concessions: €2.

Postal and Philatelic Museum H7, Stadiou Square 5 (Panathenaic Stadium), tel. 210 7519042, fax 210 The Art Foundation D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti- 7519279, [email protected], http://www. raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684, postalmuseum.gr/. Stamp lovers and collectors should not www.theartfoundation.gr miss a visit to this Museum. Among its star exhibits are the printing plates of the first stamp in Greece, as well a collection The Art Foundation opened its doors to the public in of the first stamps in history to be connected with the Olympic May 2009. It is an organisation that produces and Games (namely, with the 1896 first modern Olympics that hosts cultural events related to all forms of intel- were held in Athens, at the adjacent Panathenaic Stadium). lectual production and art, a social venue where all Its interesting exhibits narrate the postal and philatelic history are welcome to attend and get involved as well as of modern Greece. There is a gift shop that sells stamps and an inspiring meeting point, accessible to the public other collectors’ items. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, year-round, 7 days a week. Sun. Free admission. Taf’s program includes art exhibitions, theatre per- Railway Museum Siokou 4, , tel. 210 5246580. formances, film screenings, open discussions and A haven for the railways aficionados, here you can feast your lectures, literary presentations, concerts and every eyes on historic 19th century steam locomotives, historic creative idea that could take place in its physical or tram trains, as well as unique exhibits such as the royal car online space. of King , or a wagon (the smoking carriage) that was part of the Sultan train of the . Also It is housed in an imposing 1840 bulding of the Otto on display are related railway paraphernalia, such as tickets, era and is one of the busiest multipurpose art es- instruments and mechanics’ tools, as well as models and tablishments in the city and one of the best places historic photographic archives. Bus 024 from Syntagma sq to see exhibitions representing the latest trends in (Praktoreia stop) QOpen 9:00 - 13:00, Wed 9:00 - 13:00 & the Greek and international art scene. 17:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Free admission. During the summer the place becomes even more Spyros Vassiliou Museum D7, Webster 5, MA- attractive as visitors can combine the visual pleasure cropolis, tel. 210 9231502, fax 210 922 0193, atelier@ of the exhibitions with drinks in the internal courtyard spyrosvassiliou.org, www.spyrosvassiliou.org. A small under the trees. museum near the Acropolis dedicated to the life and work of Greek artist Spyros Vassiliou. Paintings, woodcuts, posters and illustrations for book covers and records are among the works on display. QOpen , Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - Exhibitions 16:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ‘Undisclosed Recipients’, Works of 23 upcom- The National Gallery J5, Michalakopoulou 1, MEvan- ing artists gelismos, tel. 210 7235857, fax 210 7224889, www. nationalgallery.gr. Housing a collection of Greek art from ‘Bijoux de kant, Recording actions’, Bijoux the sixteenth century to the present, mainly spanning the de kant explores the fields of theatre, performance, nineteenth and twentieth centuries, it includes some works contemporary music, multimedia installations, theory by Dominicos Theotocopoulos (El Greco), as well as works by of art and poetic contemplation. seminal Greek artists such as Theophilos, Nikiforos Lytras, Nikolaos Gyzis, Georgios Iakovidis, Nikolaos Kounelakis, Niko- ‘Group Filopappou’, The exhibition presents works laos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Yiannis Tsarouchis, Yiannis Mora- and archival material from the six actions of Omada lis, Nikos Eggonopoulos and Alekos Fassianos. The Gallery Filopappou (Filopappou Group) from 2001, when the frequently organises interesting temporary exhibitions. It also group was created until today. houses conservation laboratories and a library, while plans for its expansion are underway, with no concrete timeframe announced as yet. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Admission: free. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €6.5, concessions: €3. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 44 What to see What to see

Historic Buildings struggle for Greek Inde- pendence, is located in Arsakeion Megaron F3, Panepistimiou 47, MPanepis- the forecourt of the build- timio. Built by renowned 19th century architect Lysandros ing. The Tomb is guarded Kaftantzoglou, this imposing building is among the finest by the Presidential Guard examples of modern Athenian architecture and hosts the (‘’) in traditional Council of State High Court. Adjacent to the Arsakeion is the dress, whose intricately pleasant Books’ Arcade, an ideal book-lovers’ haunt and orchestrated changing of anyone avid for a shelter during a rainy day. the guard at the turn of the hour attracts many Athens City Hall Kotzia Square, MOmonia. An impres- visitors, who also take sive neoclassical building the opportunity to feed situated in a breathtaking the ubiquitous flocks of pigeons. QOpen , Sat, Sun 10:00 cobblestone square, bris- - 20:00. Free admission. tling with pleasant cafés and busy shopping centres Church of Aghioi Theodoroi F4, Aristeidou & Eu- (the picturesque Central ripidou St, MPanepistimio. Yet another structure built Athens open-air meat mar- over the ruins of a much earlier temple. This was common ket is right down the street). practice during Byzantine ages, in an attempt to wipe out The square also functions idolatry. And what less costly method than appropriating the as an open-air antiquities very materials the ancient building was made of, for “holy Museum and is surrounded purposes”! According to the inscription found on the west by beautiful neoclassical wall, this church dates back to 1065 AD. The last known buildings from the turn of the century (such as the National restoration was in 1840, following damages it incurred Bank or ‘Karatza Megaron’). The City Hall also houses a during the Greek War of Independence. This is a cross-in- valuable art collection. square construction, with 3 apses on the east side. As is the case with most churches in Greece, the bell tower was Athens Metropolitan Cathedral Mitropoleos Sq, added later. As for the imposing wall paintings, they date MMonastiraki, Syntagma. Completed in 1862 after 20 to the 19th century. years of construction (the first stone was laid by King Otto and Queen Amalia), this large three-aisled domed basilica Church of Panaghia was consecrated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Kapnikarea E5, Er- Inside are the tombs of two Orthodox saints. In its pleas- mou & Kapnikareas St, ant courtyard there are the statues of the last Byzantine MSyntagma, Monas- Emperor (Saint Constantine XI ‘the Martyr’) and a former tiraki. Built as usual on Archbishop of Athens. It is currently undergoing restoration, the ruins of an ancient so large parts are not visible under the scaffolding. temple, which was dedi- cated to goddess Athena Athens Stock Exchange Sofokleous 10, MOmonia. or Demeter, this miniscule Built in 1934 to host the nomadic stock market of those church is commonly known days, it is an imposing neoclassical building that is well as Kapnikarea. It is usually worth a detour from Kotzia Square. There is no activity in the surrounded by hundreds of building these days as trading went electronic a few years people, either waiting for ago and the management moved to a new building in 2007. someone or having their portrait drawn and even having a Don’t miss the innovative glass display on the ground, which breather in between shopping. In a poll, it would probably be exhibits a section of the Ancient Athenian wall. voted the best loved church in Athens. As for its background, it was erected around 1050AD, but the small porch with the Bank Of Greece F4, two columns was built closer to the end of the 12th century. P a n e p i s t i m i o u 2 1 , It is cross-in-square shaped, with three apses on the east MPanepistimio, www. side and a narthex on the west. A chapel, dedicated to Aghia bankofgreece.gr. Th e Varvara, was later added to the north side. As for the interior, headquarters of the Cen- which is open to the public, there are paintings signed in tral Bank of Greece. The 1955 by Greek artist Photis Kontoglou. building was designed by architects K. Papadakis National Library and N. Zoumpoulidis and - Athens Academy its foundations were laid in - Athens University 1933. The official inauguration took place in 1938, under F4, Panepistimiou 28- Governor Emmanouil Tsouderos. 32, MPanepistimio. These striking neoclas- House of Parliament (Vouli) G5, Syntagma Square, sical buildings were built MSyntagma, tel. 210 3707000, fax 210 3692170, by the Hansen brothers [email protected], www.parliament.gr. Overlooking of . The Na- Syntagma Square, it was originally the Royal Palace of tional Library is reached King Otto and Queen Amalia, the first monarchs of Greece. via an impressive sculpted Designed in the neoclassical style by Friedrich von Gartner, marble staircase, while the Athens Academy is flanked by the palace was completed in 1843. It was used as the imposing statues of Apollo and Athena on either side, while Royal Residence until 1924 and, since 1934, has housed the impressive frescoes at its entrance depict the myth the Greek Parliament. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, of Prometheus. a monument in honour of the servicemen who fell in the

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see What to see 45

National Theatre D2, Ag. Konstantinou 22, MOmo- Tzisdarakis Mosque nia. Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, with a E 5 , M o n a s t i r a k i grand colonnaded façade and beautiful interior, it is the fore- Square, MMonasti- most establishment of the National Theatre of Greece. raki. Overlooking Mo- nastiraki Square, this National Polytechnic University F1, Patision (28th was a historic Ottoman October) 46, MOmonia. This building, although in an mosque constructed unfortunate state of disrepair due to persistent student during the governor- sit-ins, is worth visiting because of its connection with the ship of the ‘voivode’ historic student uprisings against the military dictatorship, Tzisdarakis in Athens, which were violently put down on 17 November, 1973. There in 1759. It now houses is a monument in honour of the Polytechnic students killed in the Museum of Greek the Greek Resistance during World War Two, situated in the Ceramic Art, while its Minaret has been removed. forecourt of the University, on which students and politicians lay wreaths on the anniversary of the uprising, in order to Zappeion G6, Amalias commemorate the event. & Vas Olgas, MSyntag- ma. Built in 1874-1878 by Observatory C6, Hill of architect von Hansen, on the Nymphs, MThissio. the order of Greek-Roma- This historic Observa- nian national benefactors tory, the first of its kind and cousins Zappas, this in Greece and the Bal- lofty neoclassical struc- kans, was designed by ture originally housed an renowned architect Theo- exhibition hall. Surrounded phile Hansen and was by beautiful gardens, that inaugurated in 1842. It has include a pleasant coffee- a unique cross-shaped shop and restaurant, as well as an array of interesting structure, that points to sculptures, it is now used for international conferences, the four points of the hori- commercial events, as well as for European heads of State zon, while its resplendent golden dome can be seen gleaming meetings. in the Athens sky from quite a distance. Cemeteries Old House of Parlia- ment F4, Stadiou 13, Commonwealth war MSyntagma. It was the cemetery Poseidonos first residence of King Av, . 2,028 Com- Otto, while he awaited monwealth servicemen completion of the Royal of the Second World War Palace (now House of Par- are buried or commemo- liament) and subsequently rated in this cemetery. housed the Greek Parlia- 596 of the burials are ment between 1843-1854 unidentified and there and 1875 - 1932. In front are also 74 men of the of the building there stands an imposing equestrian bronze army of undivided India who died during the campaigns statue of General , among the lead- in Greece and Crete during the Second World War. In the ers of the Greek War of Independence. Today, this stately north-east corner of the cemetery, a plot contains the neoclassical building houses the National Historical Museum graves of servicemen and civilians who after serving in the (see museums). , died in Greece. A Memorial within Phaleron War Cemetery commemorates nearly 3,000 members of Presidential Palace the land forces of the Commonwealth who lost their lives and Megaron Maxi- during the campaigns in Greece and Crete in 1941 and mou H6, Irodou Attikou 1944-1945, in the Dodecanese Islands in 1943-1945 and Street, MSyntagma. in Yugoslavia in 1943-1945, and who have no known grave. The imposing Presiden- Tram stop: Pikrodafni tial Palace, which was for- merly a Royal Residence, First cemetry of Athens now hosts the Republic’s G8, Anapafseos and Trivo- Presidency and is guarded nianou, Mets, MAcropo- by ‘evzones’ (Presidential lis. Most famous Greeks are Guards in traditional cos- buried here. It is a museum in tume). It was designed by its own right with every kind renowned architect Ernst Ziller in the 1870s. Nearby is the of monument and ornamen- attractive neoclassical Megaron Maximou, which functions tal patterns, marble sculp- as the Prime Minister’s office. Admission by invitation only. tures, columns, sarcophagi and neoclassical temples, conveying the memorial art that Turkish Baths E6, Kyristou 8, Plaka, MSyntagma. flourished during the 19th century along the rebirth of the This is among one of the very few surviving remnants of the new Greek state. It was founded around 1837, when Athens Ottoman period in Greece and the sole surviving traditional was also established as the capital city of the modern Greek bathhouse in Athens. This interesting 17th century bathhouse state (1834). It spreads on the slope of the Ardittos hill, is open to visitors. QOpen 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon. close to the Panathinaiko Stadium. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 46 What to see Gardens & Parks

Children’s Athens

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli Junction, tions of an interactive character, including state-of-the-art Rentis, tel. 210 4256990, www.allou.gr. Entertain- technological applications. ment Park covering about 40,000 square metres. The The Foundation also hosts the ‘Tholos’, a dome-shaped Park includes an extensive array of amusement rides, virtual-reality theatre, currently showing an interactive tour an ‘Adrenaline Zone’, the ‘Shock Tower’ (a 40m free of the Ancient Athenian Agora. The Foundation includes a fall experience) and the largest observation wheel in conventional theatre, a café, internet-access area and gift- Greece. ‘Kidom’ is the adjacent fairytale park designed shop. Highly recommended if you are looking for a high-tech for younger children, complete with a pirate ship, carou- educational experience for the whole family and want to sel, trampolines, and climbing towers. Bus no: B18 and rediscover the little explorer in you. (Bus line 049 Omonia- trolleybus 21 from Omonia. A taxi will cost €6-8 from the Piraeus, Bus-stop: Viochalko) QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed centre of Athens. 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 fee: €4-6, Tholos: €10. - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission: Free (A fee is charged for using the rides & games). Kidom is open Hellenic Children’s Museum Kidathineon 14, until 00:00 daily Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3312995, fax 210 3312996, [email protected], www.hcm.gr. This is a small Attica Zoological Park Yalou, Spata, tel. 210 haven for children aged up to 12 years old, with multifaceted 6634724, fax 210 6634726, [email protected], thematic exhibits specially designed to cater to childrens’ www.atticapark.gr. Although it cannot be said that this imagination and stimulate their intellectual, creative and is among the world’s greatest zoos, inquisitive faculties. It covers an area you and your children will definitely of more than 520 sq. m. in a historic enjoy a few hours of fun away from three-storey neoclassical building, the city centre. You’ll have the oppor- including an attic and garden. QOpen tunity to see more than two hundred , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, species of birds, many reptiles, Greek Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. fauna species like: wolves, bears, Free entrance. foxes and wild cats, a number of African mammals like giraffes, zebras, Natural History (Goulandris) antelopes and some rare animals Museum Levidou 13 / Othonos like snow leopards and white lions. 100 (Gaea Centre), MKifisia, tel. Visitors can walk into the monkeys’ 210 8015870, fax 210 8080674, enclosure and also walk through a [email protected], www.gnhm.gr. This special tunnel and get very close to Museum houses an extensive collec- the four cheetahs of the park. To get tion of zoological, botanical, entomo- there take the 319 bus from Doukisis logical, geological and palaeontologi- Plakentias metro station. QOpen cal exhibits, with the aim of shedding 09:00 - sunset. Admission fee: €14, light on the evolution of the Earth and Children, Seniors: €10. living systems, as well as raising public awareness regarding the urgent need Copa Copana (Summer only) to safeguard the environment. The 12th km Athinon Ave. Haidari, tel. Gaea Centre is a modern exhibition 210 5576006, www.copacopana- area with interactive displays and park.com. Children and grown ups are audiovisual performances that tackle guaranteed a day of endless fun in this huge entertainment and invite the reader to address topical environmental is- theme park just fifteen minutes from the city centre. Wa- sues. Amenities include special educational programmes terslides of every kind, swimming pools, islands, waterfalls for children, a café-restaurant, gift-shop, as well as a parking and the Magic Town, the biggest children playground in area. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:30. Closed: Greece, complete with a pirate ship: an absolute heaven Until Aug 20 Admission fee: €5 (€7 combined ticket for Gaea for the little ones. There is a café, pool bars and a Mediter- Centre), concessions: €3 (€4). ranean restaurant and the fun continues in the evening with cocktails, DJs and live music. Bus No: A16, B16, E16, 865 Planetarium-Eugenides Foundation Syngrou 387, from Koumoundourou sq, Bus stop: Afaia-Haidari. A taxi ride Palio Faliro, tel. 210 9469641, www.eugenfound.edu. costs about €10. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Weekdays: €17, gr. Fancy a journey to the stars? If you’re not a millionaire or children up to 12 yrs: €10 Weekends: €20, children up to 12 an astronaut but just curious what Neptune looks like this yrs: €12. Family and member tickets also available. time of year, drop by the Eugenides Foundation. This is home to the largest and, by general acclaim, most advanced digi- Foundation of the Hellenic World Pireos 254, tal 3-D 360 degrees Planetarium in the world, built in 2003 MKallithea, tel. 212 2540000, fax 212 2540123, and designed to seat 280 people at a time. Large format [email protected], www.hellenic-cosmos.gr. films and planetarium shows are projected on a 25-metre This Centre, situated in a former industrial complex and diameter dome. Thanks to the latest digital technology spanning a total area of approximately 60,000 sq.m., is you can scuba dive in the great barrier reef, get up close not a Museum in the conventional sense of the term. It and personal with a Hawaiian volcano crater and follow does host exhibitions aiming at showcasing the develop- Neil Armstrong’s footsteps on the surface of the moon. ment of the arts, sciences and every aspect of society Buses: 126, A2,B2 from Akadimias & Omirou St QOpen throughout the Hellenic world. Yet, its exhibits are not the 19:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 20:30. Closed Mon, Tue. usual original artefacts, but contemporary reconstruc- Planetarium Digital Shows: €6, iWERKS Shows: €8.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com What to see Gardens & Parks 47

National Gardens VK

National Gardens G6, Amalias Street, MSyntagma. pages) are also to be found here offering the same breathtak- Created and designed by Queen Amalia in the 19th century, ing views of the capital. the National Gardens provide a pleasant green haven in the heart of bustling downtown Athens. Its meandering bench- Pedion tou Areos Pati- laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, make up a favou- sion (28th October) & Al- rite stroll for everyone. Feeding the ever-hungry water fowl at exandras St, MVictoria. the ponds is a must, while you may also visit the Botanical A lovely park located within Museum and, for the young (or young at heart) there is the easy walking distance (just dedicated Childrens’ Museum. A pleasant coffee-shop is also five minutes) from the located in its grounds. National Archaeological Museum, its expansive Botanical Gar den tree-lined vistas make for (Diomidous Gardens) a pleasant stroll during the day - there are also numerous 401, Iera Odos Avenue. impressive statues of Greek War of Independence heroes. Extending over a vast area of 1,800 hectares in Ath- Zappeion Garden G7, ens’ western suburbs of Vas. Olgas Av. MSyntag- Korydallos, Dafni and Agia ma, Acropolis. Situated Varvara, it makes for a right next to (and actually lovely and invigorating, forming an extension of) if impractically situated, the National Gardens, the scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds you can Zappeion Garden gener- find an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3000), ously provides a serene some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated get-away from the hustle botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. QOpen 08:00 and bustle. There are wonderfully crafted statues to be - 14:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. seen, while the café and restaurant are well worth a visit. These Gardens harmoniously combine the grand (imposing Lycabettus Hill I3 architecture of the Zappeion Hall) with the pristine, in its cool It can be reached on foot shady vistas and green corner get-aways. for the adventurous via a beautiful pedestrian walk- way surrounded by pine Presidential Palace Gardens H6, Irodou Attikou trees, by the funicular or by St. MSyntagma Do not miss the opportunity for a stroll car, offering excellent views in the gardens of a historic Royal residence-now the of the entire city and the Presidential Palace. The magnificent gardens became Saronic Gulf. There is an open-air theatre atop the Hill that accessible for the first time last March after President regularly hosts concerts during summer months. Also on the Karolos Papoulias decided to open their gates to the Hill is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint public every Sunday 10:00 - 14:00. George. A coffee-shop and restaurant (see our restaurant athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 48 Getting around Getting around

Public transport Taxis The ticket for all means of transportation costs €1,40 and is usable for 90 minutes after its validation. There is a cheaper ticket at €1,20 but that’s valid for just one ride on all means of transportation except the metro. 24h tickets cost €4 and 7day tickets cost €14. There are also monthly and yearly unlimited travel cards at various costs. For info call 185 or ask at any public transport ticket kiosk or metro station. Fines for fare- dodgers are 60 times the price of the ticket. Buses and Trol- leybuses t e l . 185, www.oasa. gr. They operate be- tween 05:30-24:00 and their network is convenient. The re- cent inauguration of e careful as some taxi drivers - usually operat- bus lanes means that B ing at airports - try to earn a day’s (or even a they are relatively week’s) wages from foreign visitors. fast though some- times still unpunc- If you have to use a taxi, always ask for the meter tual. If you’re within to be on, never accept a fixed price if you pick a the town centre you should be fine, as you’ll find there’ll taxi in the street (exceptions are the airport be more than one bus line serving your route. Make rides that have a fixed price of €35 during sure you purchase your ticket from a kiosk (‘periptero’) day time (05:00-24:00) and €50 during the beforehand and that you validate it once on board. night).

Metro t e l . 2 1 0 Starting price is at €1.19 and then there is a 6792399, www.amet- fixed rate of €0.68 per km for the single, day- ro.gr. This is definitely time tariff (05.00-24.00), and €1.19 per km for the most convenient the double, night-time tariff. The minimum charge means to getting around for every ride is €3.16. There is an additional Athens. It operates be- charge of €1.07 from and to harbours, train and tween 05:00-24:00 from bus stations. You can call a radio taxi and this i m p e c c a b l e s t a t i o n s will cost an extra €1.92 for immediate pick up (some, such as Acropolis (which can take some time during rush hours) or and Syntagma, also dou- €3.39-€5.65 for an appointment.VAT(11%) is bling as site museums) included in all rates. playing soothing classical music and featuring glit- Please note that the following radio-taxi com- tering white marble and interesting works of art. The panies only handle the calls and do not own the metro has good links to the pre-existing over ground taxis. They are not therefore responsible for the rail network, connecting the harbour of Piraeus with the conduct of the drivers. northern suburb of Kifisia, the stations of which have been recently upgraded. The operating hours extend to 02:00 am every Friday and Saturday. Radio Taxi Companies Tram www. tramsa.gr. For the Apollon tel. 210 3636508 leisurel y traveler Asteras tel. 210 6144000 who wishes to get Ellas tel. 210 6457000 around in style (the Enotita tel. 210 6459000 t r a m c a r s w e r e Evropi tel. 210 5028574 designed by Fer- Hermes tel. 210 4115200 rari designer Ser- Icaros tel. 210 5152800 gio Pininfarina, no Kosmos tel. 18 300 less) and in a less Protoporia tel. 210 2130400 crowded, albeit slower fashion, the tram is the way. It is *If you feel that you are about to be ripped brand new and more comfortable and spacious than the off,ask for a receipt, refuse to pay and buses and trolleybuses. Plus, you get the chance to view demand to be taken to the nearest police the wonderful seaside esplanade of Athens’ southern station. This has worked wonders in the coastal suburbs by boarding the tram towards Voula. past and tourists have seen the price asked Operating hours are 05:30-01:00. (Fri-Sat 05:30-02:30. dropping dramatically in seconds! June-Sep Fri-Sat 24H)

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Getting around Getting around 49

Ultra-modern Kerameikos metro station AIYP

24 hrs kiosks Internet IVIS Travel Internet Service. Mitropoleos 3, MSyn- tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3243365

Bits and Bytes Akadimias 78, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3813830. Car rental Avis Tel. 210 6879600, fax 210 6879610, [email protected], www.avis.gr Budget Tel. 800 11 800 12, 210 8981444, [email protected], www.budget- athens.gr. Europcar Tel. 210 2882151, fax 210 2882050, [email protected], www.europcar.com.gr

Run out of cigarettes, feel like reading a newspaper, Hertz Tel. 210 6264000, fax 210 6264409, craving for a chocolate, need a condom, or worst of www.hertz.gr all, someone stole your In Your Pocket guide at 5 in the morning? No worries, here is where you’ll find 24-hour National Tel. 210 3493428, fax 210 3493417, kiosks: [email protected], www.nationalcar. gr Kolonaki Sq. H5 Mavili Sq. K4 Syntagma Sq. G5 Omonia Sq. E3 Kanigos Sq. F2 Ag Assomaton Sq. C5 Courier Services ACS 210 8190000 DHL tel. 210 9890000 TNT tel. 801 11868868 UPS tel. 210 9984000 athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 50 Getting around Getting around

Aircraft/helicopter rentals Post Offices ABI (air business international) Vouliagmenis 602A, , tel. 210 9967870, fax 210 9967872, info@ abi.gr, [email protected]. Buy, sell, lease or hire helicopters and aircrafts. Airlift Herodou Attikou 12A, Marousi, MMarousi, tel. 210 8093771/210 8093777, [email protected], www. airlift.gr. Helicopter rental for sightseeing or transport in style. Airlines Aegean Viltanioti 31, Kifisia, tel. 210 6261000/Air- port: 210 3530101. Aeroflot Xenofontos 14, tel. 210 3220986/Airport: 210 3531101. If you are the old-fashioned type and a snail-mail lover, Aerosvit Syngrou 36-38, tel. 210 9210710/Airport: here is a list of centrally located post offices. 210 3534020. The stamp to post a 20gr letter or postcard abroad Air France Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 costs €0.70. Add to that €3.20 for registered and €2.90 9970700/Airport: 210 3530380. for express mail. Air China Filellinon 24, tel. 210 3716386/Airport: 210 3534245. Acropolis post kiosk D6, Acropolis rock, MAk- Albanian Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3227466/Airport: ropolis, tel. 210 3217650. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00, 210 3530376. Sun 09:00 - 13:30. Alitalia Vouliagmenis 577, tel. 210 9988888/Airport: Aiolou - Central PO E3, Aiolou 100, MOmonia, 210 3534284. tel. 210 3216024. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 Austrian Vouliagmenis 18, Glyfada, tel. 210 9601240/ - 14:00. Closed Sun. Airport: 210 3533425. Exarchia G1, Zaimi 36-38, MVictoria, tel. 210 British Airways Themistokleous 1, Glyfada, tel. 210 8219570. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 801 1156000/Airport: 210 3531170. Kolonaki I5, Ploutarchou & Karneadou 35, MEvan- Bulgaria Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3228113/Airport: 210 gelismos, tel. 210 7244404. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. 3531156. Closed Sat, Sun. Continental Airlines Filellinon 25, tel. 00800 Makrigianni F7, Dionisiou Areopagitou 7, MAk- 44143592/Airport: 210 3530678. ropolis, tel. 210 9218076. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Cyprus Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3534100/ Closed Sat, Sun. Airport: 210 3534312. Metaxourgio C3, Thermopylon 42, MMetaxourgio, Czech Airlines Kyprou 151, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 tel. 210 5225277. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed 9652957/Airport: 210 3531252. Sat, Sun. Delta Athens International Airport, tel. 00800 Mitropoleos E5, Mitropoleos 60, MMonastiraki, 44129506/Airport: 210 3530116. tel. 210 3218143. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Closed Emirates Syngrou 128, tel. 210 9333400/Airport: Sat, Sun. 210 3531174. Omonia E2, 3rd Septemvriou 28, MOmonia, tel. 210 Gulf Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3220851/Airport: 210 5233636. QOpen 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 3531566. Plaka F6, Nikis 33, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3235831. Iberia Athens International Airport, tel. 210 QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 3537600. Syntagma Square F5, , MSyntagma, tel. 210 Jat Airways Amerikis 10, tel. 210 3622054/210 3237573. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00, 3634572. Sun 09:00 - 13:30. KLM Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 9110000/Airport: 210 3533436. LOT Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3237762/Airport: 210 3530376. Lufthansa Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175200. Malev Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3241116/Airport: Luggage lockers 210 3530376. Olympic Syngrou 96, tel. 801 801 0101/Airport: 210 Luggage lockers can be found at Omonia, Monastiraki 3550500. and Piraeus old (green) line metro stations (€3 per 24h). Qatar Airways Syngrou 170, tel. 210 9508700/Air- port: 210 3534011. SAS Vouliagmenis 85, Glyfada/Airport: 210 3530373. Free Internet Singapore Airlines Kallirois 103, tel. 210 3728000/ Airport: 210 3531259. Swiss Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175320/Airport: athenswifi: Grab your laptop, head to Syntagma 210 3530382. Square, Kotzia Square, or Thissio (from the metro station Thai El. Venizelou 32, Glyfada, tel. 210 9692020/210 up along the pedestrian path), find somewhere comfort- 3531237. able to sit and log on: Internet access is free! Turkish Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3537280/ Airport: 210 3530401.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Getting around Getting around 51

Ferry Schedule From Piraeus to: Days Dep. Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:25 Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS – – – 4 5 6 7 17:15 Paros-Naxos-Santorini/BS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:25 Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /BS 1 2 – 4 5 6 7 7:35 Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Milos- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:25 Kimolos/GA Paros-Naxos/HS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:30 Ios-Santorini/HS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:15 Santorini-Rethymno – 2 – – – 6 – 15:45 Paros-Naxos/HS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:30 Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /HS 1 2 – 4 5 6 7 17:15 Paros-Naxos-Iraklia-Shinousa- – – 3 – 5 – 7 17:30 Koufonisi-Amorgos-BS Paros-Naxos-Amorgos- 1 – – – – – – 17:30 OSE train in northern Greece VK Astipalea/BS -Paros-Naxos-Donousa- –2 – 4 – 6 – 17:30 Trains Amorgos-Astipalea/BS he Greek rail network is one of the smallest in Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS 1 2 3 4 – – – 13:00 TEurope. In fact, there is one main line to the north Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS – – – – 5 – – 16:00 of the country and another to the Peloponnese. The Paros-Naxos-Kalimnos-Kos- 1 – 3 – – – – 15:00 mountainous landscape of the country does not allow Nisiros-Tilos-Rodos/BS for an extensive network but the truth is that the railway Chios-Mytilini/NEL 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:00 never featured among Greek governments' top priorities. Siros-Kos-Rodos/BS 1 – – 4 – – – 19:00 Only over the last twenty years, there has been an effort Serifos-Sifnos-Milos/HS 1 2 – 4 5 6 7 18:00 to modernise and upgrade the standards of the rail Kalimnos-Kos-Rodos/BS – 2 – 4 – – – 18:00 services and as a result the travel time between Athens Syros-Patmos-Leros-Kos- – – 3 – – – – 19:00 and Thessaloniki is now less than five hours. However, Rodos/BS for the rail journey lovers, Greek railways are not short Heraklio/ANEK 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:30 of scenic routes, some of them otherwise inaccessible. Heraklio/ML 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 Every train departs Athens from Larisis station (Metro: Chania/Anek 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 Stathmos Larisis) Paros/BS – – – – 5 – 7 21:00 OSE Sina 6 (Central tickets office), tel. 1110, www. Paros-Naxos-Ios-Sikinos- – – – – – 6 – 15:00 ose.gr. Online reservations: http://tickets.trainose.gr Folegandros-Santorini-Anafi/ GA Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos- – 2 – 4 – – – 15:00 Kimolos-Milos-Folegandros- Train schedule Sikinos-Ios-Santorini-Anafi Patmos-Leros-Kos-Rodos/BS – – – – – 6 – 23:55 From Athens To Athens Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. 6:50-IC 11:54 THESSALONIKI 1:41-IC 6:45 Ferry companies 7:53-ICEX 12:20 THESSALONIKI 7:13-ICEX 11:40 ANEK LINES Akti Kondyli 22, Pireaus, tel. Domes- 9:21 15:02 THESSALONIKI 10:13 15:21 tic:210 4197420/International:210 4197430, boo- 10:51-IC 15:50 THESSALONIKI 11:40-IC 16:43 [email protected], www.anek.gr. Ferry connections between 13:21-IC 18:31 THESSALONIKI 12:42-IC 18:18 14:52 20:51 THESSALONIKI 14:54 19:50 Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 19:29-IC 23:55 THESSALONIKI 16:33 22:46 20:39-IC 01:48 THESSALONIKI 18:50-IC 23:16 Blue Star Ferries Amalias 30, tel. 210 8919800, 23:59-SL 06:59 THESSALONIKI 22:59-SL 5:46 [email protected], www.bluestarfer- ries.com. Ferry connections from Piraeus to Cyclades and Dodekanese From To THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI Hellenic Seaways , tel. 210 4199000, www.helle- Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. nicseaways.gr. High speed ferry connections to the Saronic ALEXANDROU- 07:24-SL 13:14 08:34SL 15:06 islands and Cyclades POLI ALEXANDROU- 15:48-SL 22:22 19:19-SL 0:01 Minoan Lines 25th August St. 17, , Crete, tel. POLI 210 4145700, [email protected], www.minoan.gr. Ferry connections between Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy

NEL Lines Astigos 2, Pireaus, tel. 210 4115015, Information Numbers [email protected], www.nel.gr. Connections to Lesvos, Chios and the Cyclades Ferries departure info tel. 1441. KTEL (intercity buses) departure info tel. Superfast Ferries Karamanli 157, Voula, tel. 210 14505 8919509, www.superfast.com. Blue Star's international OASA (urban transportation) info tel. 185. sister company connects Greece and Italy and also Scotland OSE (Greek Railways) info tel. 1110. and Belgium athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 52 Shopping Shopping

Spending guide

ere you are in Athens, this sprawling, chaotic, entic- style labels (some of which designed by well-known - Hing city, with its rough-hewn lively urban character, fiti artists). wondering where to head off shopping. Let us give you a Oh, and as regards local colour, don’t miss out on a walk few insiders’ tips… though the bristling Monastiraki Flea Market (great for First of all, and take our word for it, you’ll need to keep collectors’ items, vintage records and other quirky items shop opening hours in mind. Although opening hours are and memorabilia) and the colourful Athens’ Central Market officially unregulated from Monday to Saturday (on Sundays (we recommend you purchase some local herbs here - all shops except pastry shops, wine and spirits shops, there’s a very wide selection available at great prices). flower shops and emergency pharmacies, are closed), At the opposite end of the spectrum, Kolonaki caters you’ll find that many businesses (with the exception of large to those after some sophisticated, upmarket chic (at the department stores and some central shops that stay open appropriate price, of course). all day) adhere to the following opening hours: Then again, if you’re the department-store type of shop- Mon, Wed, Sat: 09:00-15:00. per, you’ll have to choose between a few really impressive Tue, Thu, Fri: 09:00-14:30 & 17:00-20:30. department stores. (See our list). All shops close on National Holidays. Souvenir shops and convenience stores operating around tourist sites are gen- Finally, some useful shopping tips before you set off: erally open longer hours, usually 09:00-23:00 every day. Credit cards: All major international credit cards are Now that we’ve sorted when to shop, time to tackle the accepted in all large stores, as well as in boutiques. They next question: where to shop. may not be accepted in family-run businesses or local A visit to the charming Plaka district, apart from some neighbourhood stores, so in those establishments it is rather kitsch souvenir shops, will also reward you with best to double-check. Most Greeks pay for their purchases great traditional arts and crafts shops that are well worth in plastic, which accounts for the proliferation of credit a visit (we give you some ideas in our listings section). On schemes available. the other hand, if it’s a more all-encompassing shopping Sales: Winter sales run during the period from middle to experience you’re after, a good bet is to head to Ermou end-January up to mid-February (maximum five weeks’ Street (starting from Syntagma Square and culminating duration). Summer sales run during the period from mid-July in Monastiraki). This is a great shopping spree destina- up to the end of August at the latest. tion, as it’s conveniently pedestrianised and offers a very Local shopping culture: Greeks used to be big spend- wide selection of mainstream consumer goodies: clothes, ers and great fans of branded items, generally sporting jewelry, shoes, cosmetics, gift shops (yes, you guessed it, designer sunglasses and top of the range mobile phones Ermou Street is mainly a ladies’ shopping haven). as essential accessories, with a concurrent tendency to But the lower end of Ermou Street, towards the seedier accumulate rather large credit card bills in tandem with the Monastiraki area, is a different story. Head here for Greek state. This trend has been reversed during the last urban wear, so you can deck yourself out in original street year since the crisis started to bite.

Collectors Items Notos Galleries Aiolou 99, MOmonia, www.notos- Collectors shop Stadiou 44 (Stoa Arsakeiou 10), galleries.gr. A standard department store primarily selling MOmonia, tel. 210 3318248, fax 210 3318249, info@ clothes and satisfiying most of the consumption needs of collector-shop.com, www.collector-shop.com. Mr Syvr- the modern Athenian. idakis is an expert dealer of rare Greek coins, banknotes and stamps. In his shop you’ll find huge collections which can also Notos Home Kratinou 5, Kotzia Sq, MOmonia, tel. be purchased from his excellent on-line shop. 210 3743000, www.notosgalleries.gr. This is a one stop Tarasouleas Stadiou 10, MSyntagma, tel. 210 shop for young couples setting up their new home. Furniture, 3255564, fax 210 3221440. Mr Tarasouleas is an author- electrical appliances and even a travel agency cater to every ity in numismatics and in his shop you’ll find rare greek coins, self-respecting wedding list. banknotes and a large collection of stamps. The Mall, MNerantziotissa, www.themallathens. gr. This shopping centre with the imaginative name is the Department Stores biggest shopping complex in the wider Athens area. If you Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis Av. 276, MAg. have a whole day to spend shopping then head for this out- Dimitrios Tel: +30 210 9769444, www.athensmetro- of-town temple of consumption. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat mall.gr A new shopping centre minutes away from the centre 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. by metro (see details on the next page) Attica Panepistimiou 9, City Link, MSyntagma, tel. Electronics, Computers & Gadgets 211 1802600, fax 211 1802698, www.atticadps.gr. Upmarket department store,the biggest in the city. All top Germanos, www.germanos.gr. There is a branch on brands priced accordingly. every other corner. Here you can change batteries and repair and buy every brand of mobile phone. Hondos Center Ermou 39, Ippokratous 3, Omonia Plaisio, www.plaisio.gr. The largest computer and office Sq 4, Merlin 6, www.hondoscenter.gr. Designer brands supply chain.-Stournari 19 & 24, F1-Zaimi 10, F1-Voulis 3, at great prices, cosmetics cheaper than the airport duty Syntagma, F5 free shops, fashion, travel accessories, underwear, Greek Public, www.public.gr. You can’t miss this large store art souvenirs and everything you expect to find in a top selling computers, gadgets and books: It’s right on Syn- department store. tagma Sq, G5

Athens In Your Pocket Shopping Shopping 53

Athens Metro Mall

his new shopping centre is very popular among TAthenians as it is located only a 9 minutes metro ride from Syntagma square. 85 stores offer all leading brands at very competi- tive prices. Clothes, shoes, electronics, accessories, books and everything to cover your shopping needs while in Athens. The place is a perfect all-day destination and besides the shopping experience a visitor can enjoy lunch or dinner in one of its 18 eateries of all kinds, relax with coffees and drinks and watch a movie in its five-screen multiplex. Its roof-garden boasts amazing sea and sunset views and stays open until the early hours. Finally in Athens Metro Mall you will also find a supermarket, a beauty salon, a play area, a bank and many other services.

Access: Metro: Red line to Agios Dimitrios terminal station. Bus: Stop “Terma” (Panagouli Square): Buses 113, 219, 816 Stop “Darzenta” (on Leoforos Vouliag- menis): Buses 210, 109, 154, 155, 171, 208, 219, 816, A3, A4, B3, B4, 113, X97, 790. Car: Vouliagmenis Av. 276, Ag. Dimitrios. Shopping Hours: Shops: Mon – Fri.:09:00-21:00 Sat.: 09:00-20:00 Sun.: Closed. Bank: Mon – Fri: 09:00-15:30 Sat-Sun.: Closed Dining and Entertainment: Mon. – Sun.:09:00 until late

Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis Av. 276, Ag. Dimitrios.Tel: +30 210 9769444 Website: www.ath- ensmetromall.gr E-mail: [email protected]

athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 54 Shopping Shopping

ies, as well as an outspokenly subversive-yet-glamorous diva, Market values confident enough to pull off these exciting creations in style. € $ £ Parthenis H4, Dimokritou & Tsakalof 20, Kolonaki. Mc Donald’s Big Mac 3.20 4.54 2.78 Casual chic designer label, offering sophisticated garments Loaf of white bread 0.75 1.06 0.65 using exclusively natural fibres for those who opt for style Snickers bar 0.80 1.13 0.70 and comfort in one. Orsalia Parthenis’ creations can aptly be 0.7L of vodka 16.00 22.72 13.92 characterised as unaffected and simple, yet quintessentially 0.5L bottle of beer 1.20 1.70 1.04 elegant. 20 Marlboros 4.00 5.68 3.48 Public transport ticket 1.40 1.99 1.22 Cinema ticket 8.50 12.00 7.40 International Bookshops Exchange rates (as of 28.09.2011): Compendium Nikis 28, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3221248, EUR=1.42USD EUR=0.87 GBP [email protected]. An independent English language bookshop in Plaka. Literature, newspapers, magazines

Deutsche Buchhandlung (German Bookshop) Gifts & Souvenirs Stadiou 10 & Omirou 4, MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. Benaki Museum Gift Shop Koumbari 1, Kolonaki, 210 3225294, fax 2103232289, [email protected], www. MSyntagma, tel. 210 367 1000, fax 210 367 1063, dbo.gr. German books are not widely available in Athens but [email protected], www.benaki.gr/museumshop/en. A this excellent buchhandlung perfectly covers the needs of tasteful selection of replicas of ancient Greek and , German locals and travellers. as well as an interesting selection of jewelry, prints, ceramics, antiques, religious icons and books. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, MPanepistimio, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. tel. 210 322938, [email protected], www.books.gr. Expats’ favourite hang out, this 7 storey bookshop boasts a Kombologadiko H5, Koumbari 6, Kolonaki. This specialty large English section with all the paperbacks you’re likely to shop offers all kinds of rosary beads, known as ‘kombologia’ - in wish for before you head to the beach and then some. Greece they are used for pleasure and for aiding concentration and are especially favoured by older men. It is also recom- Fashion Bookstore F5, Thisseos 6. An interesting little mended against stress and, believe it or not, as an aid for bookshop selling exclusively fashion magazines from around quitting smoking. A gift with many uses… the world.

Melissinos, The poet-sandalmaker Agias Theklas 2, Librairie Kauffmann (French Bookshop) Stadiou 28, Psirri, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. 210 3219247, info@ MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. 210 3255321, fax 210 melissinos-poet.com, /www.melissinos-poet.com. Fancy 3230320, [email protected], www.kauff- a pair of hand-made ancient Greek sandals made by a world mann.gr. A historic bookshop supplying local francophones famous...poet? Stavros Melissinos has crafted sandals for since an era when French was the foreign language of choice celebrities like the Beatles, Jackie Kennedy, Sofia Loren and among educated Greeks. has featured in newspaper articles all over the world. He runs his workshop together with his son, an artist. Travel Bookstore Solonos 71, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3616943, This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top National Archaeological Museum Gift Shop Patision Greek cartography company ORAMA Editions, which is our (28th October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax map supplier. A visit here is essential before any excursion to 210 8213573. Recently refurbished and expanded, it offers the countryside, where you’ll have a huge choice between top a wide selection of replicas of ancient artifacts, as well as a quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of comprehensive collection of guide books on ancient Greece. the country and all international maps and travel guides series. An interesting selection of gift ideas and memorabilia is also If you mention you’re an In Your Pocket reader, the bookshop’s available. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00. experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount. Greek designers Jewellery Celia Kritharioti F6, Dedalou 8, Plaka. Internationally ac- Zolotas G5, Panepistimiou 10, Stadiou 9, www.zolotas. claimed Greek designer, her creations are feminine, sensuous gr. Fine jewellers since 1895. Inspired by classic Greek art, and elegant. She is also well known for her wedding gowns their creations are objects of desire for every female with and lovely sequined and hand-embroidered garments, many of fine taste and finesse. If a knickknack souvenir is not your which are strewn with semi-precious stones and crystals. cup of tea and you have a corresponding bank balance, then walk in one of their posh boutiques and spoil yourself Ioanna Kourbela F6, Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali 12, or your beloved. Plaka, www.kourbelaioanna.gr. Innovative fashion designer Ioanna Kourbela takes the national body conscious image to a Koukos F6, Navarchou Nikodimou 21, MPanepistimio, whole different level with a barrage of billowing fabrics twinned Tel. (+30) 210 3222740 www.koukosjewellery.gr Koukos with creative layering, seeking to showcase the female form in is one of the most popular Greek quality jewellery brands. a completely different way to what we’re accustomed.. Since 1970 the collection has adopted designs inspired by the ancient Greek and traditional jewellery. In their shop you’ll Loukia H5, Kanari 24, Kolonaki. Unique designer label find complete collections with visible references to the Greek that manages to exude an aura of romance, unconventional popular and Byzantine tradition as well as contemporary de- creative originality and theatrical extravaganza, all in one. sign trends. Also fine Italian tin collections, hand made replicas Loukia’s clothes are simultaneously reminiscent of a fairy tale of Byzantine icons and old traditional ceramics. princess, with flamboyant tulle, ruffles, laces and embroider-

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com Shopping Shopping 55

Markets Sweets Athens Central Market (Varvakeios) Athinas Aristokratikon F5, Karageorgi Servias 9. The city’s Street (between Evripidou & Sofocleous Streets), premier sweets and pastries emporium, with an extensive MMonastiraki, Omonia. An extravaganza of sights, smells array of delicious hand-crafted sweets and chocolates, made and sounds, here you will be treated to a very wide selection with the finest local ingredients. of spices, herbs, cheeses, olives, meats, fish and all sorts of gastronomical delights. Take a pick from the wonderful selection of nuts, herbs and dried fruits - you will be hard Tattoo & Piercing pressed to find these back home. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Black Rose D4, Pallados 16, Psirri, MMonastiraki, Closed Sun. tel. (+30) 210 3238610, www.blackroseta2.gr. If you are up for a permanent souvenir from Athens, then head to Fruit & Vegetable street markets (Laiki markets) Black Rose, one of the top tattoo and piercing studios in the Every Athenian neighbourhood has its own open air fruit and centre of the city. Professional art work, safety and hygiene veg market on a specific day of the week. Licenced produc- are guaranteed. ers bring their fresh goodies from their farms to the big city neighbourhoods. Prices start high in the morning but in true Traditional Food Products market fashion get really low towards midday. One of the best and well worth pottering around is in Kal- Gaea Products, www.gaea.gr. Greek traditional prod- lidromiou St. Exarchia, every Saturday morning. ucts of exceptional quality and many international awards. Extra virgin olive oil, olives, and dips to take home with Monastiraki Flea Market Ifestou & surrounding you. Available in large supermarkets and the airport duty streets, MMonastiraki. It has lost some of its old days free shops. charm as modern shops have replaced the stalls, but it Mastiha Shop G5, Panepistimiou & Kriezotou and Ath- remains the absolute Athenian open-air, vibrant, people- ens Airport, www.mastihashop.gr. All mastiha products packed, shopping/haggling experience. Head here if you brought to you by the association of Chios mastic growers. are looking for antiques, collectors’ items, vintage clothing, These exclusively Greek product makes the ideal gift to old music records and books, homeware, leatherwear and bring home if you want to avoid an ‘ouzo power’ t-shirt! Try souvenirs. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. the natural chewing gum and the sweet liquor. A full range of natural cosmetics is also available. Mesogaia Hamosternas 14, Kato Petralona. Delica- Natural Cosmetics tessen selling delicious local speciality foods from around Apivita G4, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, www.apivita.com. Greece, such as extra-virgin olive oil, the local spirit, “raki”, A full series of natural cosmetics produced with propolis, a diverse array of cheeses and a fragrant selection of honey, royal jelly, rosemary, green tea and fruits. Greek prod- wild herbs. ucts that make perfect gifts for anyone back home. Korres, www.korres.com. Started as a homeopathic pharmacy, Korres now produces more than 500 skin and hair care herbal products, sold in more than 30 countries. Greek women love them as they are 100% natural. Second hand American Markets . Ermou 30, D5, 2nd floor tel. 210 3217870, Ermou 48, D5, 1st flor tel. 210 3215740, Sofokleous 19, E3, 1st floor tel. 210 3217051 Yesterday’s Bread Kallidromiou 87, Exarchia, tel. 210 8811233. Imported second hand clothes. Shoes Camper Ermou 34, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3216709. The world’s grooviest shoes! Kalogirou H5, Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Kolonaki. The ul- timate fashionable shoe shop, with top international labels as well as its own-brand discerning designs. A must-visit destination for all shoe afficionados. Supermarkets AB Vassilopoulos www.ab.gr. Supermarkets are rare in downtown Athens, they tend to concentrate in residential areas. Some central branches of the best supermarket chain AB Vassilopoulos can be found at the following addresses: -Vouliagmenis 67 & Menonos, Mets, F8 -Marni 24, E1 -Spyrou Merkouri 38, Pangrati, J6 -Keiria- don & Sfiton, Petralona, A6 -Mavromichali 157 & Digeni Akrita, I1 QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 56 directory directory

Embassies Banks Alpha Bank Stadiou 40, tel. 2103260000.

Albania Vekiareli 7, Filothei, tel. 210 ATE Bank Panepistimiou 23, tel. 210 3298911. 6876200. Australia Kifisias 1-3, tel. 210 8704000. Bank of Greece (Central Bank) Panepistimiou 21, tel. 210 3201111, www.bankofgreece.gr. Austria Vas.Sofias 4, tel. 210 7257270. Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, tel. 210 BNP Paribas Vasilissis Sofias 94, tel. 210 7468000. 3617886. Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari St, Psyhiko, tel. Citibank Achaias 3, Kifisia, tel. 210 8186000. 210 6748106. Eurobank Amalias 20, tel. 210 9555000. Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, tel. 210 7273400. HSBC Mesogion 109, tel. 210 6962100. Cyprus Herodotou 16, tel. 210 7237883. Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psichiko, tel. 210 Marfin Egnatia Bank Zefyrou 56, tel. 210 6719701. 9304811. Denmark Vas.Sofias 11, tel. 210 7256440. National Bank Eolou 86, tel. 210 3341000. France Vas.Sofias 7, tel. 210 3391000. Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, tel. Piraeus Bank Amerikis 4, tel. 210 3335000. 210 7285111. Hungary Karneadou 25, tel. 210 7256800. Postal Savings Bank Pesmazoglou 2-6, tel. 210 3704000. China Krinon 2A, Psichiko, tel. 210 6723282. Ireland Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 Business connections 7232771. Israel Marathonodromou 1, Psichiko, tel. 210 American-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Meso- gion 109, tel. 210 6993559, www.amcham.gr. 6719530. Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, tel. 210 3617260. Athinon 110, tel. 210 3366800, Japan Papadiamanti 21, Psichiko, tel. 210 www.ase.gr. 6709900. Netherlands Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry Akadimias 7-9, tel. 210 3604815, www.acci.gr. 210 7254900. Norway Vasilissis Sofias 23, tel. 210 Athens Tourism & Economic Development Com- 7246173. pany G6, Xenofontos 7, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3253123, Poland Chryssanthemon 22, Psichiko, tel. fax 210 3216653, [email protected]. 210 6797700. British Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Vasilissis Romania Emmanouil Benaki 7, Psichiko, tel. Sofias 25, tel. 210 7210361, www.bhcc.gr. 210 6728875. Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psichiko, tel. 210 General Secretariat for Investment and Develop- 6725235. ment Nikis 5-7, tel. 210 3332402, www.ggea.gr/ Serbia Vasilissis Sofias 106, tel. 210 index_en.htm. 7774344. German-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce and Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psichiko, tel. 210 Industry Dorileou 10-12, tel. 210 6419000, http:// 6771980. griechenland.ahk.de/. South Africa Kifisias 60, Marousi, tel. 210 6106645. Hellenic-Dutch Association of Commerce and In- dustry Kifisou 102, tel. 210 5384177, www.heda.gr. Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, tel. 210 9213123. Hellenic-Chinese Chamber Amerikis 10, tel. 210 Sweden Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 3629052, www.chinese-chamber.gr/. 7266100. Switzerland Iasiou 2, tel. 210 7230364. Hellenic Center for Investment Mitropoleos 3, tel. 210 3355700, www.elke.gr. Turkey Vasileos Georgiou 8, tel. 210 7263000. Hellenic Foreign Trade Board Marinou Antipa 86-88, UK Ploutarhou 1, tel. 210 7272600. Ilioupoli, tel. 210 9982100, www.hepo.gr. USA Vasilissis Sofias 91, tel. 210 7212951- 9. Hellenic Ministy of Economy and Finance Nikis 5-7, tel. 210 3332000, www.mnec.gr/en.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com directory directory 57

Italian Cultural Institute Patission 47, MVictoria, Business services tel. 210 5242646, fax 210 5242714, www.iicatene. esteri.it. Adecco Kifisias 56, tel. 210 6930490, www.adecco. gr. HR and recruitment business services Government Dowlings Solicitors Kifisou 19, Nea Kifisia, tel. 210 Parliament Vasilissis Sofias 2, tel. 210 3707000, info@ 8076575, www.dowlings.gr. English Solicitors operating parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr. in Greece, specialising in Greek property, management and related taxation issues. Prime Minister Irodou Attikou 19, www.primemin- ister.gr. Fair Consulting F5, Lekka 23-25, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3232633, fax 210 3232664, info@fairconsulting. gr, www.fairconsulting.gr. Claims management, loss ap- courses praisals and insurance settlements negotiations. Athens Centre Archimidous 48, tel. 210 7012268, [email protected], www.athenscentre.gr. A private FC&D Zisimopoulou 16, Psichiko, tel. 210 6930780, institute offering lessons in modern Greek and also business www.fcd.gr. Franchise consultancy in the Greek and inter- Greek, Greek culture, theatre, poetry etc national markets. University of Athens Modern Greek Language Global Business Services Kifisias 90, tel. 210 Teaching Centre, University Campus, Ilissia, tel. 210 8764876, www.gbs.gr. Furnished, equipped and serviced 7277672, [email protected], www.nglt.uoa.gr. offices for as long as you need them. Modern Greek lessons organised by the University of Ath- ens. All year, summer and intensive classes and reasonable International Business Services Michalakopoulou tuition fees. 29, tel. 210 7245541, www.ibs-ltd.gr. Translation, HR, conference and consultancy services to traveling business- men and foreign companies entering the Greek market International Schools American Community Schools of Athens (ACS Kantor Omirou & Vissarionos 1, tel. 210 7297500, Athens) Agias Paraskevis 129, Ano Halandri, tel. 210 www.kantor.gr. Business consultants with an international 6393200, fax 210 6390051, www.acs.gr. presence. Byron College 7 Filolaou St, Gargitos Geraka, tel. 210 KPMG Stratigou Tombra 3, Agia Paraskevi, tel. 210 6047722, fax 210 6048542, www.byroncollege.gr. 6062100, www.kpmg.gr. Auditing, accounting, business consultancy, the global way. Campion School Agias Ioulianis, Pallini, tel. 210 6071700, fax 210 6071750, www.campion.edu.gr. Manpower Xenofontos 9, tel. 210 3240200, www. manpowerteam.gr. Recruitment services by the global Ellinogermaniki Agogi (German) Doukisis Plakentias experts. 25, Halandri, tel. 210 6853220, fax 210 6821953, www. ellinogermaniki.gr. Sarantitis Law Firm Anagnostopoulou 9, tel. 210 3670400, www.sarantitis.com. A legal firm specialising French-Greek School Trikalon & Chlois, Agia Paraske- in all areas of business law vi, tel. 210 6012704.

SOL SA Fokionos Negri 3, tel. 210 8691100, www. International School of Athens (ISA) Xenias & solae.gr. The largest Greek accounting & auditing firm with Artemidos, Kefalari, Kifissia, tel. 210 6233888, info@ offices all over the country isa.edu.gr, www.isa.edu.gr

Italian School Mitsaki 18, tel. 210 2280338, www. Foreign Institutes scuolaitalianathene.edu.gr.

British Council Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, Evange- Polish Community School Navarinou 19, Holargos, lismos, tel. 210 3692333, fax 210 3634769, www. tel. 210 6538204. britishcouncil.gr. St Catherine’s British Embassy School Sofokli Cervantes Institute Skoufa 31, tel. 210 3634117, fax Venizelou 73, Kifisia, tel. 210 2829750, administrator@ 210 3647233, [email protected]. stcatherines.gr, www.stcatherines.gr. French Institute Sina 31, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 Real estate 3398600, fax 210 3646873, www.ifa.gr. Remax Hellas Adrianiou 42, Neo Psichiko, tel. 210 Goethe Institute Omirou 15, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 6753417, [email protected], www.remax.gr. 3661000, fax 210 3643518, [email protected], www.goethe.de/athen.

Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, Kolonaki, €1 = $1.42 MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3680000, fax 210 3633174, (Sep 28 2011) [email protected], www.hau.gr. athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 58 directory maps

Hospitals Free Downloads There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this Public Accident Hospitals print version of our latest guide. We print guides Asklipieio Voulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula, tel. 210 in more than 50 cities across Europe, and In 8958301. Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for free download, in PDF, at our website. A number K AT Nikis 2, Kifisia, MKAT, tel. 210 6280000. of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPa- per documents. Just visit our website at inyour- Public General Hospitals pocket.com for all our available downloads. Evangelismos Ypsilantou 45-47, MEvangelismos, tel. 210 7201000.

Geniko Kratiko ‘Gennimatas’ Mesogion 154, MEthniki Amyna, tel. 210 7768000.

Ippokratio Vasilissis Sofias 114, MAmpelokipi, tel. 210 7483770.

Laiko Agiou Thoma 17, MAmpelokipi, tel. 210 7456000.

Tzanio Afentouli & Tzani 1, Piraeus, tel. 210 4519411. Public Children’s Hospitals Travel Agencies Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi, Agia Sofia M tel. 210 7726000. Viamare E8, Missaraliotou 2, Makrigianni, Acropolis, tel. 210 9228930-2, fax 210 9228940, info@allyeart- Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, tel. 210 ravel.gr, www.allyeartravel.gr. This is a small independent 7726000. travel agency run by young people who will go out of their way to satisfy all your travel needs around the country. Accom- Maternity Hospitals modation, tours & cruises, sightseeing, ferry tickets and last but not least: objective and independent advice. Alexandra Vasilissis Sofias 80, MMegaro Mousikis, tel. 210 7750432.

Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou Sq, MAmpelokipi, Learn Greek online: It’s free! tel. 210 6432220. www.ellinika.org Iaso Kifisias 37-39, tel. 210 6184000. www.xanthi.ilsp.gr/filog Leto Mouson 7-13, tel. 210 6902000.

Mitera Kifisias 7 Erithrou Stavrou 6, tel. 210 6899421. Emergency numbers

Aiport Police 210 3536919. Removals Ambulance 166. Mondial Forwarding Hellas 20th km National road Athens-Korinthos, Elefsina, tel. 210 5540907, www. Coast Guard 108. mondialtransport.com. ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400. Orphee Beinoglou Syngrou & Evripidou 2, Kallithea, tel. 210 9466100, www.beinoglou.gr. Fire Service 199. Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info Sailing Charter Companies 14944. Kiriakoulis Mediterranean Alimou 7, Alimos, tel. 210 Police 100. 9886187-91, fax 210 9818979, charter@kiriacoulis. com, www.kiriacoulis.com. SOS Doctors 1016. Tourist Police 171. Vernicos Yachts Poseidonos 11, Alimos, tel. 210 9896000, fax 210 9850130, [email protected], www. Traffic Police 210 5230111. vernicos.com.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com directory maps 59

Athens metro map

Greater Athens area (Attica) athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012

66 Index

ABI (air business Black Rose 55 General Secretariat Mediterranean 58 School 57 international) 50 Blues 29 for Investment and Klepsidra 28 Postal and Philatelic AB Vassilopoulos 55 Blue Train Café 33 Development 56 Kosta 26 Museum 43 Acropolis Museum Hotel BNP Paribas 56 German-Hellenic Kostas 26 Postal Savings Bank 56 20 Booze 28 Chamber of Commerce KPMG 57 President 19 Adecco 57 Boschetto 26 and Industry 56 Krinos 28 Prime Minister 57 Aegean 50 British Council 57 Germanos 52 KTEL (intercity buses) Railway Museum 43 Aiolis 28 British Hellenic Chamber Germany 56 departure info 51 Rebecca 27 Alatsi 23 of Commerce 56 Gialiskari 27 Lamda Club 33 Red Indian 22 Alcatraz 32 Bulgaria 56 Global Business Livadia 26 Remax Hellas 57 Alexander Sauna 33 Buses and Trolleybuses Services 57 Mamacas 23 Revaizi 23 A Lier Man 29 48 Glykis 27 ManiMani 23 Romania 56 All Year Travel 58 Butcher 25 Goethe Institute 57 Manpower 57 Royal Olympic 19 Alpha Bank 56 Byron College 57 Goulandris Museum of Marfin Egnatia Bank 56 Rozalia 24 Ambariza 29 Byzantine and Christian Cycladic and Ancient Melissinos, The poet- Russia 56 American Community Museum 40 Greek Art 40 sandalmaker 54 Saint George Schools of Athens (ACS Camper 55 Granazi 33 Metropolis 21 Lycabettus 18 Athens) 57 Campion School 57 Grand Ritorno 32 Mondial Forwarding Sarantitis Law Firm 57 American-Hellenic Canada 56 Hard Rock Café 22 Hellas 58 Serbia 56 Chamber of Commerce Capu 30 Hellenic American Union Mousses Club 32 Seven Jokers 31 56 Celia Kritharioti 54 57 Museum of Greek Folk Six D.O.G.S. 31 American Markets 55 Cellier Le Bistot 23 Hellenic Center for Art 42 Skoufaki 29 ANEK LINES 51 Cervantes Institute 57 Investment 56 Museum of the Ancient SOL SA 57 Apivita 55 Chez Lucien 23 Hellenic Children's Agora 42 Soul Kitchen 22 Arethusa 20 China 56 Museum 46 Museum of Traditional South Africa 56 Aristokratikon 55 Church of Aghioi Hellenic-Chinese Musical Instruments 42 Spain 56 ATE Bank 56 Theodoroi 44 Chamber 56 National Archaeological Spyros Vassiliou Athens Backpackers 21 Church of Panaghia Hellenic-Dutch Museum 40 Museum 43 Athens Central Market Kapnikarea 44 Association of National Bank 56 Stavlos 29 (Varvakeios) 55 Citibank 56 Commerce and Industry National Gardens café St Catherine's British Athens Centre 57 Classical King George 56 29 Embassy School 57 Athens Chamber of Palace 18 Hellenic Foreign Trade National Glyptotheque Stratos Vassilikos 20 Commerce and Industry Collectors shop 52 Board 56 42 Surreal 27 56 Commonwealth war Hellenic Ministy of National Historical Sweden 56 Athens City Hall 44 cemetery 45 Economy and Finance 56 Museum 42 Taverna tou Psirri 25 Athens Exchange 56 Compendium 54 Hera 19 National Library - Athens Temple of Olympian Athens Metropolitan Copa Copana 46 Hondos Center 52 Academy - Athens Zeus 37 Cathedral 44 Czech Republic 56 House of Parliament University 44 The Art Foundation Athens Sports Bar 29 Diammond Dolls 32 (Vouli) 44 National Theatre 45 (TAF) 31 Athens Stock Exchange Dioskouroi Café 28 Hoxton 30 Natural History The Athens Gate 20 44 Dioskouros 21 HSBC 56 (Goulandris) Museum 46 The National Gallery 43 Athens Tourism & Doris 24 Hungary 56 Naxos 27 Titania 20 Economic Development Dowlings Solicitors 57 Ilias 24 Netherlands 56 To Kafeneio 25 Company 56 Efta Thalasses 27 Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry New Benaki Museum 42 Toy Bar 31 AthenStyle 21 Ellinogermaniki Agogi Museum 41 Nixon 30 Tram 48 Attica 52 (German) 57 Il postino 25 Norway 56 Travel Plan 58 Attica Zoological Park 46 Epigraphical Museum 40 Inoteka 28 Numismatic Museum 43 Triantafyllo tis nostimias Australia 56 Eridanus 19 International Business Numismatic Museum 25 Austria 56 Eurobank 56 Services 57 Café 29 Tudor Hall 24 Baba Au Rum 29 Fair Consulting 57 Intrepid Fox 30 OASA (urban Turkey 56 Baby Gold 32 FC&D 57 Ioannis (Royal Olympic transportation) info 51 UK 56 Baby O 32 Ferries departure info 51 Hotel) 23 O'Connell's 30 USA 56 Balthazar 22 First cemetry of Athens Ireland 56 Old House of Parliament Vernicos Yachts 58 Bank Of Greece 44 45 Islamic Art Museum 41 45 Wagamama 22 Bank of Greece (Central Folli Follie 54 Israel 56 Omiros 20 Zappeion 45 Bank) 56 Foundation of the Italy 56 Orphee Beinoglou 58 Zappeion Garden 47 Bartesera 29 Hellenic World 46 Jackson Hall 22 OSE (Greek Railways) Belafonte 29 France 56 Japan 56 info 51 Belgium 56 French-Greek School 57 Jewish Museum 41 Ouzou Melathron 27 Benaki Museum 40 French Institute 57 Kafeneio Thissio 28 Pan 21 Benaki Museum Gift Fresh 19 Kantor 57 Parliament 57 Shop 54 Galaxy Bar 30 Kappari 24 Pedion tou Areos 47 Big 33 Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) Kavouras 26 Periscope 19 Bits and Bytes 49 30 Kazarma 33 Piraeus Bank 56 Black Duck Multiplarte Gazaki 30 Kerameikos Museum 41 Poland 56 22 GB Corner 26 Kiriakoulis Polish Community

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