MARBLEHEAD RECONNAISSANCE REPORT ESSEX COUNTY LANDSCAPE INVENTORY MASSACHUSETTS HERITAGE LANDSCAPE INVENTORY PROGRAM Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation Essex National Heritage Commission PROJECT TEAM Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation Jessica Rowcroft, Preservation Planner Division of Planning and Engineering Essex National Heritage Commission Bill Steelman, Director of Heritage Preservation Project Consultants Shary Page Berg Gretchen G. Schuler Virginia Adams, PAL Local Project Coordinator Rebecca Curran, Town Planner Local Heritage Landscape Participants Wayne Butler Rebecca Curran Bill Conly Charlie Dalferro Joseph Homan Bette Hunt Judy Jacobi John Liming Frank McIver Ed Nilsson Miller Shropshire William Woodfin May 2005 INTRODUCTION Essex County is known for its unusually rich and varied landscapes, which are represented in each of its 34 municipalities. Heritage landscapes are places that are created by human interaction with the natural environment. They are dynamic and evolving; they reflect the history of the community and provide a sense of place; they show the natural ecology that influenced land use patterns; and they often have scenic qualities. This wealth of landscapes is central to each community’s character; yet heritage landscapes are vulnerable and ever changing. For this reason it is important to take the first steps towards their preservation by identifying those landscapes that are particularly valued by the community – a favorite local farm, a distinctive neighborhood or mill village, a unique natural feature, an inland river corridor or the rocky coast. To this end, the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR) and the Essex National Heritage Commission (ENHC) have collaborated to bring the Heritage Landscape Inventory program (HLI) to communities in Essex County. The primary goal of the program is to help communities identify a wide range of landscape resources, particularly those that are significant and unprotected. The focus is on landscapes that have not been identified in previous survey efforts in a given community. Another important goal of the program is to provide communities with strategies for preserving heritage landscapes. The methodology for the Heritage Landscape Inventory program was developed in a Pilot Project conducted in southeast Massachusetts. It is outlined in the DCR publication Reading the Land which has provided guidance for the program in Essex County. In short, each participating community appoints a Local Project Coordinator (LPC) to assist the DCR-ENHC consulting team. The LPC organizes a heritage landscape identification meeting at which interested residents and town officials offer community input by identifying potential heritage landscapes. This meeting is followed by a fieldwork session including the consulting team and the LPC, usually accompanied by other community members. This group visits the priority landscapes identified in the meeting and gathers information about the community. The final product is the Reconnaissance Report, prepared for each participating community. It outlines the history of the community; identifies the resources and documentation that provide background information; provides a short description of the priority heritage landscapes visited; discusses planning issues identified by the community; and concludes with a brief discussion of survey and planning recommendations. A list of all of the heritage landscapes identified by the community is included in the Appendix. MARBLEHEAD HISTORY Marblehead’s distinctive coastal landscape features, particularly its harbors, islands and peninsulas, were instrumental in shaping the history of the community from the earliest Native American use of the land to the present day. Massachusetts Heritage Landscape Inventory Program 1 Marblehead Reconnaissance Report Evidence of Native American encampments and seasonal occupation over the last few thousand years has been found in Marblehead. Sites were overlooking Salem Harbor to the north and the Atlantic Ocean near the Swampscott line. An early Naumkeag settlement overlooked Salem Harbor at Bessom Pasture, now part of Marblehead. The first European settlement in “Marble Harbr” was in 1629 and the town was established twenty years later in 1649. Marblehead was distinguished as the town with the largest fishing industry in New England by the mid 1600s. Fishing remained the base of the economy for two centuries from the mid 1600s to the mid 1800s. There were the expected interruptions during the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812, when many of the fishing seamen went to war. Fishing dropped off after 1846 in part due to a devastating storm that destroyed the core of the Marblehead fishing fleet. During the first half of the 19th century some Marblehead seamen left fishing for the China trade in the Pacific. Nearby Salem was the center of this lucrative trade. Shoe manufacturing became a major local industry into the second half of the 19th century and competed with the maritime industries of rope walks, sand suppliers and shipbuilders. Two major fires in 1877 and 1888 destroyed most of the successful shoe shops and ended the shoe industry. By the late 19th century there was a rise in the summer resort industry with Marblehead becoming the second most important yachting and racing capital of the East Coast next to New York. Seasonal cottages, built to accommodate the resort industry, soon were followed by large summer homes, many of which survive as evidence of this time in Marblehead’s history. In its early days from the 17th century Marblehead was connected to Salem by a ferry that was rowed across Salem Harbor. The first road between Salem and Marblehead was laid out in 1660 and the road to Marblehead Neck – today’s Causeway – was laid out in 1669. The advent of the railroad came in 1839 and service continued into the 20th century, first providing transportation for seasonal visitors. With a successful maritime economic base, the population of Marblehead was unusually large in the 18th century with about 5,000 in 1765 making Marblehead among the largest towns in the colonies. Throughout the 19th century, fluctuations occurred as industries rose and fell. Population in the last quarter of the 20th century and into the 21st century is steady at nearly 20,000. Marblehead continues as a yachting center. Most of the summer cottages and estates have been converted to year-round residences and this accounts for a steady sizeable population with little seasonal population fluctuation. However, Marblehead has an active tourist industry in the summer. Massachusetts Heritage Landscape Inventory Program 2 Marblehead Reconnaissance Report RESOURCES AND DOCUMENTATION Inventory of Historic Assets The Massachusetts Historical Commission’s (MHC) Inventory of Historic and Archaeological Assets is a statewide list that identifies significant historic resources throughout the Commonwealth. In order to be included in the inventory, a property must be documented on an MHC inventory form, which is then entered into the MHC database. This searchable database, known as MACRIS, is now available online at http://www.sec.state.ma.us/mhc. According to the MHC, Marblehead’s inventory documents 1,074 resources dating from 1636 to 1981. Most of the documentation was completed in the late 1970s; however the forms have historical and architectural descriptions that are more comprehensive than most written at that time. State and National Registers of Historic Places The National Register of Historic Places is the official federal list of districts, sites, buildings, structures and objects that have been determined significant in American history, architecture, archaeology, engineering and culture. All National Register properties are automatically listed in the State Register of Historic Places. Marblehead’s National Register (NR) program began in 1966 when the Jeremiah Lee Mansion was listed as a National Historic Landmark (NHL). Soon thereafter, the General John Glover House was also listed as a National Historic Landmark. By virtue of their NHL status, both of these properties are also individually listed on the National Register. Subsequent National Register listings included nine more individual properties, one of which was included in the 1990 First Period Thematic Nomination, and two districts: the Marblehead Historic District and Marblehead Light, the latter of which has two resources. The Marblehead Light and related oil house are part of the Lighthouses of Massachusetts Thematic Nomination. Also listed in the State Register are those properties protected by a preservation restriction, drawn up in accordance with MGL Chapter 183, Sections 31-33. A preservation restriction (PR) runs with the deed and is one of the strongest preservation strategies available. All properties that have preservation restrictions filed under the state statute are automatically listed in the State Register. Only one Marblehead property falls into this category, the Old Town House, which already was listed in the National Register when the PR was applied in 1999. This restriction recently has expired. Local Historic District Local historic districts, which are administered at the municipal level, are special areas within a community where the distinctive characteristics of buildings and places are preserved and protected by a local historic district commission. To date there are two local historic districts in Marblehead accounting for