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Aquincum KATALOG NOVÝ.Indd KELTA ASSZONYOK – RÓMAI HÖLGYEK Celtic Women – Roman Ladies * Idõszaki kiállítás a BTM Aquincumi Múzeumában Temporary exhibition in the Aquincum Museum 2000. május–2001. október Budapest, 2002 A kiállítás: Forgatókönyv, szövegek: MADARASSY ORSOLYA, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA A viseletrekonstrukciókat készítették: CSIKY LÓRÁNT, LACZAY GÉZÁNÉ, PINTÉR PIROSKA, SZÕCS ANNA, OKA ILDIKÓ Fotó: KOMJÁTHY PÉTER, OKA ILDIKÓ Grafika, látványterv: CSERNUS ERZSÉBET, KARDOS ÁRPÁD Tabló: CSERNUS ERZSÉBET Tablószöveg és feliratok fordítása: ALICE M. CHOYKE, KOLOZSVÁRI KRISZTIÁN A kísérõ kiadvány: Szerkesztés: SZU ANNAMÁRIA A szövegeket és a katalógust készítették: MADARASSY ORSOLYA, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA Fotó: KOMJÁTHY PÉTER, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA Nyomdai elõkészítés: KOLOZSVÁRI KRISZTIÁN Köszönjük önkéntes modelljeink türelmes segítségét: ÁBRAHÁM SZABINA, BESENYEI KINGA, BESZÉDES JÓZSEF, HUNYADI ÁGNES, KÕVÁGÓ DÁNIEL, LACZKÓ MARIANN, LASSÁNYI GÁBOR MAGYAR MYRTILL, MAJCHER MELINDA, MAJCHER MÓNIKA, NÁDAI KINGA, SZU GABRIELLA, TÉZER ZITA AQUINCUMI MÚZEUM A katalógus a Budapest Fõvárosi Közgyûlés Kulturális Bizottság Közmûvelõdési és Tudományos Alapja támogatásával valósult meg. © Budapesti Történeti Múzeum, 2002. Felelõs kiadó: Dr. Bodó Sándor, fõigazgató TARTALOM Contents Bevezetõ . 5 Preface Történeti háttér . 6 Historical Background Festett sírkövek és színes ruhák . 10 Painted Gravestones and Dyed Clothes Nyersanyagtól a szõttesig . 12 From Raw Materials to Weaving A római hölgy . 19 The Roman Lady Katonák és polgárok . 22 Soldiers and Citizens A kelta nõi viselet . 26 The Celtic Woman Dress A viselet maradandó emlékei . 32 Costume of Celtic Women Aquincumi textilleletek . 37 The Survived Remains of Costumes Általános irodalom . 39 General References A kõemlékek katalógusa . 40 Catalogue of Stone Monuments Irodalomjegyzék . 77 References Részlet a „Kelta asszonyok–Római hölgyek” c. kiállításból / Detail of the exhibition “Celtic Women–Roman Ladies” Archaeology is investigating Man with the aid of his A régészet a tárgyakon keresztül mutatja be az embert, s az em- Archaeological Research in Aquincum berek mögött a történelmet. A részletekbõl következtet az egész- objects and History behind them. It needs to deduce fromArchaeology details to the studies whole, ancient as the peopleoverwhelming through majority devel- re, hiszen a tárgyak többsége az idõk folyamán megsemmisült. A ofopments objects in have their beenmaterial destroyed culture. during Archaeologists the past mustcen- házaknak csak az alapfalai maradtak meg, a háztartás edény- turies.deduce Onlyfacts thefrom basements the details of as housesthe overwhelming have been ma-sur- készletébõl csak néhány cserépdarab, a bútorokból csak a díszí- vived,jority ofa everydayfew pottery-fragments objects from theof pastancient have households been de- tések, magából az emberbõl pedig legfeljebb csak a csontváz. A andstroyed as for over man the himself centuries. no more Foundations than his skeleton.of houses Hard- have survived, a few ceramic shards and, as for the people viseletbõl éppen a textília pusztult el, s a temetõk feltárásaiból ly any furniture and rather their decoration have sur- vived.themselves, Unfortunately no more textilethan their materials bare bones. of costume Hardly haveany csak az egykori ruha „kiegészítõi”, az ékszerek, ruhakapcsoló beenfurniture rotted has awaysurvived and with during the exceptionexplorations of someof burying- deco- tûk, övcsatok kerülnek elõ. A kõszobrászat alkotásai azonban, – placesrative elements.merely accessories Textiles, ofunfortunately, ancient garments have usuallythat is rotted away. Excavations in cemeteries reveal merely néha sérülten ugyan – de legtöbbször eredeti szépségükben él- jewellery, clothing pins and belt buckles is having come the accessories for ancient garments, jewellery, cloth- to light. However, sculpture objects of stone, sometimes ték túl az elmúlt évszázadokat. Az Aquincumi Múzeum sírköve- ing pins and belt buckles. Stone sculptures, however, in és sírszobrain ma is megcsodálhatjuk az egykor itt élt embe- beingalthough damaged sometimes though, damaged, have more are more often likely been to endured survive in their original beauty. One can admire in the Aquincum rek arcát, alakját, ruházatát. in their original beautiful form. In the Aquincum Mu- Museumseum (Budapest, the faces; Hungary) figures and one costumecan admire of peoplethe faces once as Pannoniában – így Aquincumban is – a római hódítás nyo- livingwell ashere the depictedfigures and on costumesthe gravestones of people, and whocemetery once mán, a Kr. u. 1. századtól kezdve állítottak az elhunytak számá- statues.inhabited this territory, as they are depicted on grave ra sírköveket. Ezek a sírkövek római kõfaragómûhelyben készül- stelesFrom and the cemetery AD 1st statues.century after the Roman conquest tek, de megtalálhatjuk rajtuk mind a rómaiak ábrázolását, mind theyAfter erected the gravestonesRoman conquest honouring of Pannonia the deceased in the in ADthe territory1st century, of PannoniaRomans styleand graveAquincum steles as honouring well. These the azok portréit, akik nevükben is, viseletükben is a helyi kelta la- stonesdeceased had were been erected, made in in Roman many placesstone carvers’in the empire work- kossághoz tartoztak. Kiállításunk e viseletek rekonstrukcióit mu- shopsincluding but Aquincum.one can find Although together thesewith descriptionsRomanised stoneabout tatta be. Munkánk során a Római Birodalom más provinciáiból Romancarvers’ peopleworkshops also itthe is alsoportraits possible of thoseto find with portraits their namesof people and we costume know whowere were Eraviscan belonging Celts to basedthe Eraviscus on the kerestünk párhuzamokat az aquincumi kõtár gyakran töredékes, names and details of their dress. Reconstructions of néha pedig erõsen stilizált ábrázolásaihoz, így tudtuk ezeket Celts. Our exhibition has displayed merely the recon- structionthese clothes of those can dresses.be found During in our ourexhibition. work we During were the course of our research for the exhibit we sought pontosabban értelmezni. Fõleg a színesebb, változatosabb, deko- seeking for parallels between the remains coming from parallels between the preserved textile remains from ratívabb nõi ruhákkal foglalkoztunk, de a férfiak és a gyermekek other provinces of the Roman Empire and those of the other Roman provinces and the often fragmentary and viseletét is tárgyaljuk. oftensometimes fragmentary heavily stylizedand sometimes depictions stronglycarved onstylised stone Bemutatott ruháink – római kori irodalmi források, aquincu- descriptionsmonuments ofin thethe Aquincum Aquincum lapidary, lapidary. thus In wethis were manner able mi régészeti leletek, néprajzi analógiák és a kísérleti régészet towe define came theseto an understandingremains more precisely.of what the We ancient are now cloth- dis- cussing mainly the more coloured, more diversified and eredményeinek szintéziseként – korabeli módszerek alapján ké- ing may have looked like. Emphasis was placed on re- decorativeconstructing woman–dresses the more colourful, but costume diverse of and men decorated and chil- szültek: az antik forrásokban felsorolt növényi festékekkel fest- drendresses are ofalso women mentioned. although the costumes worn by men ve, kézzel font len-, gyapjú- és selyemfonálból, kézi szövéssel és andThe children ensembles were ofalso clothings examined. on view at present have kézi varrással. Ahol az eszközök, alapanyagok és ruhadarabok la- beenThe created ensemble on the of basisclothing of ancientseen in methodsthe exhibition as a syn-has been manufactured using traditional methods described tin nevét nem ismertük, ott a mai elnevezést használtuk. thesis of Roman literary origin, the excavation finds from Aquincum,in Roman literary ethnological sources, analogies on the basis and of thearchaeological results of Mind a kiállítással, mind jelen ismertetõnkkel azt igyekeztünk presentfinds from day Aquincum, experimental ethnographic archaeology. analogies Their and material the lat- megmutatni, hogy a régészet tudománya laikusok számára sem areest resultshand-loom from experimentalwoven, sewed archaeology. by hand outThe from materials flax, érthetetlen száraz adathalmaz. Hiszen a kétezer évvel ezelõtti woolwere andhand-woven, silk threads sewn sometimes by hand with spun linen by handfibre, and silk tint-and wool threads, some of which were also hand-spun and ed with dye plants listed in antique literary sources. We ember és a mai ember közt nincs is akkora távolság. A kétezer coloured using the dye plants mentioned in ancient sourc- use current definition of instruments, base materials and évvel ezelõtti asszony ugyanúgy piacra járt, ebédet fõzött, gyer- es. We use the modern names of instruments, materials of garments where Latin names could not been found. meket dajkált, ellátta házastársát, családját, s ünnepi alkalmakra and garments where Latin names could not be found. ByBy establishingputting on anour exhibition exhibition and and publishing publishing thisthis studystudy éppúgy, mint ma, lehetõségeihez mérten a legújabb divatú ruhá- wewe areare trying trying to to confirm show that thearchaeology science of need archaeology not be isa ban, frizurával, ékszerekkel jelent meg. notboring a boring accumulation accumulation of facts, of unavailablefacts, which to is non-profes- unavailable forsionals. the laic, We believeeither. We that believe there isthat not there as much is not distance so much as distanceone thinks between between the modern man
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