BRAVO RENEWS AT BURBERRY/2 TRAUB’S NEXT ACT/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Butter Up — Goddesses do walk among us, and they’re wearing long, romantic gowns in great swathes of silk. This season, buttery hues with understated details are key. Here, Monique Lhuillier’s beaded silk satin look. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Badgley Mischka to Skip

THERINE NICHOLS; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI THERINE NICHOLS; STYLED BY Spring Fashion Season Amid Search for Backer By Eric Wilson

RICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: KA ASSISTANT: RICOMI; FASHION NEW YORK — With no viable backers stepping forward to rescue Badgley Mischka, the designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka said Monday they Y MELLUSO/WARREN T Y MELLUSO/WARREN will not produce a spring collection. Badgley Mischka has been majority owned by Escada (USA) Inc. since 1992, but the designer eveningwear brand was put on the block last October as part of Escada’s ongoing global restructuring.

T ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP B BY T ARTISTS Although a number of companies have held discussions with the designers and Escada executives over the last several months, they jointly said in a statement See Badgley, Page15 A H./SUPREME; HAIR BY LAURA NAKAMOTO A LAURA A H./SUPREME; HAIR BY PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: SAR KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Bravo Extends Burberry Contract Ready-to-Wear/Textiles GENERAL By Samantha Conti “It’s positive news. Under her constant-currency basis to $206.8 With no viable backers stepping forward to rescue their firm, designers reign…the group has been turned million (110.6 million pounds). Mark Badgley and James Mischka said they will not produce a spring line. LONDON — Burberry’s chief ex- into a global luxury brand.” European companies often re- 1 ecutive officer Rose Marie Bravo, “The board is delighted that port results in constant-currency Burberry ceo Rose Marie Bravo, the driving force behind the revival of the the driving force behind the ren- Rose Marie has extended her terms, as a way of showing how 2 British luxury label, agreed to extend her contract another year to July 2006. aissance at the British luxury contract,” said John Peace, chair- high growth would have been Marvin Traub is bringing the Jacques Dessange brand to the U.S. and label, agreed to extend her con- man of Burberry, in a statement. without the negative impact of tract another year to July 2006 as “Under her leadership, Burberry fluctuating foreign exchange 3 managing North American distribution of Pout cosmetics. the company reported that first- has been transformed into an in- rates. The Burberry statement EYE: The Baron Alexis de Rede, the social grandee known for his opulent balls, quarter sales climbed 6 percent ternational luxury brand, and the did not release any profit figures 4 fastidious manners and grand tastes, died in Paris on July 9. He was 82. to $194 million (103.7 million business has achieved great suc- for the period. pounds) from $177 million (97.4 cess with respect to revenues and “The financial year is off to a Even for evening, designers are harnessing the power of the sun in flowing million pounds). profitability.” good start,” said Bravo. “In this 6 goddess looks that up the wattage in a cheerful palette of yellows. “I love what I’m doing,” Bravo Bravo scored a 100 percent quarter, we achieved strong sell- told WWD. “And I’m very stimu- bonus for her performance in the through of remaining spring- Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 lated by my team — they are like 2003-04 fiscal year, when profits summer merchandise, and ex- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is a family to me. And there is so soared 75.3 percent to $171.1 mil- perienced an encouraging ini- [email protected], using the individual’s name. much more to do. You name it, we lion (91.5 million pounds), thanks tial consumer response to our WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 can do better. We can have higher in part to huge gains. Turnover autumn-winter collections.” FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 13. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional standards.” rose 13.8 percent to $1.26 billion In the three months ended issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three Bravo stepped in as ceo in (675.8 million pounds). June 30, retail sales, which ac- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; 1997, when the firm was known In exchange for hitting Bur- counted for 54 percent of total Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, only for its traditional trenchcoats berry’s internal sales and profit revenue in the quarter, rose 7 per- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- and check pattern, and turned it targets, Bravo received $1,568,000 cent to $104 million (55.6 million President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at into a major global luxury brand. — the equivalent of her base pounds) from $97.4 million (52.1 additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. She will be able to renew her con- salary — as a reward, according million pounds). POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. tract on an annual basis, a Bur- to the company’s latest annual re- On a constant-currency basis, FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR berry spokeswoman said. port, issued last month. sales rose 15 percent to $112 mil- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “I think it’s a great relief to the Shareholders will be asked to lion (59.9 million pounds), despite subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production markets that she’s staying,” said approve that bonus and other de- difficult comparisons with the correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Melanie Flouquet, equities analyst tails regarding the company dur- corresponding period last year. magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully at J.P. Morgan in London. “People ing the annual general share- Newly opened stores and a screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. were a bit nervous that she was holders’ meeting, scheduled for renewed vigor from markets WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED going to leave. She is so closely today in London. such as continental Europe, MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART associated with the brand.” Meanwhile, Burberry said in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Rhys Williams, equities ana- its statement Monday that first- also drove sales in the quarter. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE lyst at Seymour Pierce, agreed: quarter sales rose 14 percent on a Continued on page 10 ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Bloomingdale’s Bows Speedo Olympic Suits In Brief ● NEW AT ESPRIT: Esprit Holdings Ltd. has named Thomas By Emily Holt Grote, former global head of wholesale operations, to be joint global chief operating officer of the Esprit Brands along with NEW YORK — Speedo, which Jerome Griffith, who had been an executive director and global has sponsored the U.S. swim head of retail operations. Both posts are new. Based in team since 1984, showcased its Düsseldorf, Germany, Grote and Griffith will jointly take on major new Fastskin FS II U.S. Olympic operational responsibilities for the Esprit brand, including prod- team uniforms at the Blooming- uct development, image, logistics and wholesale and retail distri- dale’s flagship here Monday. bution. They will report to Heinz Krogner, chief executive officer Former Olympians and gold- and chief operating officer of Esprit Holdings Ltd. In addition, medal winners Janet Evans and Esprit has relocated Andreas Adenauder, global business manag- Rowdy Gaines modeled the red, er of the women’s casual division, to the company’s U.S. head- white and blue swimsuits, which quarters in New York. He will become president of Esprit North are made of a sharkskin-like ma- America, a new post. Adenauder reports to Krogner. terial and have features such as bumps on the chest and shoulder ● PRADA SELLS STAKE: Prada Group on Monday sold its 5 per- blades to minimize drag. A gray, cent share in De Rigo to the Italian eyewear manufacturer for white and lime green version is $14,017,500, or 2,225,000 shares at $6.30 a share. The transaction is available for women and men ex- part of De Rigo’s buyback plan. A year ago, Prada bought out De clusively at Bloomingdale’s, in Rigo’s 51 percent stake in their joint venture company, EID full-body and sleeveless styles. (International Eyewear Distribution) and subsequently sold 100 “The things consumers are percent of it to Luxottica for $30.4 million. asking for is uniqueness and tech- nology, and not sameness,” said ● SPIEGEL CATALOG SOLD: Spiegel Catalog was acquired from Craig Brommers, vice president Spiegel Inc. by a group of investors for an undisclosed sum, the of marketing for Speedo, explain- KEITH SMITH PHOTO BY firm said Monday. The newly formed company, Spiegel Catalog ing why non-Olympians would be Michael Gould and Joseph Gromek with Olympic stars Rowdy Gaines and Janet Evans. Holdings Corp., will continue operating under the Spiegel name interested in a high-priced, ad- perpremium women’s swimwear they wished they had the Fastskin after the deal is closed. Geralynn Madonna, president and ceo of vanced suit. The FS II, at $400 re- priced at $200 retail, also will be advantage during their competi- Spiegel Catalog Holdings, said in a statement that “over the past tail, is the first Fastskin to be of- carried by the retailer. tive careers. year, we have repositioned Spiegel as the ideal resource for the fered at a department store. “What Bloomingdale’s tries to “When I was swimming, it was modern woman. Now under new ownership, Spiegel will once The introduction of the con- do is separate itself from the com- the smaller the suit, the better,” again have the opportunity to prosper and grow.” The investors, sumer suit marks the brand’s petition by providing newness said Gaines, 45. described by the company in a statement as “senior manage- reentry into Bloomingdale’s swim and excitement,” said Michael Evans, 32, who was recently ment,” partnered with Golden Gate Capital, an equity bank in department after about a two- Gould, the chain’s chairman and inducted into the Olympic Hall of San Francisco. year absence. The Platinum chief executive. Fame, agreed. “Things change in Collection by Speedo, a line of su- Bloomingdale’s officials de- sports and technology,” she said. ● HAITI AID: The U.S. would drop duties on Haitian apparel under clined to discuss how much busi- “Making people faster is part of a measure approved Friday by the Senate in a voice vote. The leg- ness they expect to do with the that whole process.” islation is seen as a humanitarian effort, since the Caribbean coun- FS II swimwear. Speedo will provide Fastskin try’s economy is close to collapsing. The measure has yet to go be- There is a buzz surrounding swimsuits for almost 130 coun- fore the House. Haiti still produces some apparel, mostly cotton U.S. Olympic swimming this year tries, including the Netherlands, garments, but it accounts for only 0.7 percent of all apparel import- as Michael Phelps makes a run at whose suits will be orange and ed into the U.S. Under the measure, duties would be waived for breaking Mark Spitz’s record of blue, and Australia, whose suits seven years, pending annual renewal by the U.S. President based seven gold medals at the Athens will be green and yellow. on whether Haiti is moving toward a free-market economy. Games next month. “From a fashion perspective, “Phelps is creating quite a seeing the bright colors adds a bit of excitement,” said Joseph fashion element that’s been lack- Gromek, president and ceo of ing in recent years,” Brommers the Warnaco Group, which holds said. “Traditional swim uniforms Correction the Speedo swimwear license. have leaned on black, blues and The blue and white striped robe on page 9, Monday, is from Speedo will award Phelps $1 navy. Visually, this will be the Lauren by Ralph Lauren. In addition, the line will not be an ex- million should he eclipse Spitz. most impressive swimming com- hibitor at the Lingerie Americas show. The former Olympians said petition ever.” WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM ARMANI TOSSES THE TIMES: It’s not the first time that Giorgio Armani is using a little muscle in the media world. With Marvin Traub, MEMO PAD the designer’s long-simmering (now- center, with settled) feud with Vogue still fresh in Mortimer Singer memory, Armani has a new fight on his hands and has reportedly pulled his and Elizabeth advertising from (the newspaper, not the magazine). While Block, directors neither Armani nor Times officials were available for elaboration Monday, his of Marvin Traub move is said to be in response to a negative men’s wear review that Guy Trebay Associates. gave his collection on July 4, calling his shows “errant, confounding and stuck in a vision of an unrecognizable world.” Not coincidentally, Armani took out a double-page spread in the Times on July 11, evidently thumbing his nose at Trebay and defending his collection with effusive praise from critics, publications and retailers around the world, including Suzy Menkes from the International Herald Tribune, DNR, AP, The Independent, Financial Times, Le Figaro, Kal Ruttenstein of Bloomingdale’s and Robert Burke of . That could be the last double-page spread the Times will see for a while from Armani. The Vogue feud lasted several seasons. — Lisa Lockwood

KELLY RIDES AGAIN: It appears that a bad experience at YM wasn’t enough to sour Christina Kelly on the teen category. Kelly has signed on to be the new executive editor of Elle Girl, replacing Gillian Fassel, who is moving with her family to Texas. “I’ve been a fan of Christina’s since the days of Sassy,” said Elle Girl editor in chief Brandon Holley. “She and Jane Pratt basically created the modern teen magazine genre.” Kelly was previously editor in chief of YM, having moved up from the number two spot when her predecessor, Annemarie Iverson, jumped to rival Christina Kelly Seventeen. Kelly has said little publicly since leaving YM in February, but she confirmed Monday that she quit in the face of Marvin Traub: Man in Motion heavy criticism from Gruner + Jahr’s acting chief executive, Axel Ganz. “Basically, it had become unbearable,” she said. At Elle Girl, she added, “I By David Moin Traub said. He declined to give further details. really look forward to working on a niche publication again after years of “He’s working with a group to create this working on an enormous circ book.” Kelly starts her new job Aug. 9. Aaron NEW YORK — Marvin Traub, the 79-year-old luxury channel, not really a commerce channel consultant and former chairman and chief business,” said Philip Miller, operating direc- Gell, the Elle writer and former W staffer who has been filling in on a temporary executive of Bloomingdale’s operates in two tor of Tri-Artisan Partners merchant bank, and basis, will stay on through the transition. — Jeff Bercovici gears, forward and fast-forward. a former chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue and Traub, in yet another phase of his career, Marshall Field’s. “It’s a real start-up business, SHOP SHAPES UP: Shop Etc. is still a few weeks from its debut, but it’s never said in an interview Monday he is bringing the they’re still fund-raising, but a lot of people are too early for a little masthead churn, right? Editor in chief Mandi Norwood Jacques Dessange hair brand to the U.S., man- involved. Marvin likes the action. recently let go of her number three, deputy editor Angela Matusik, and replaced aging the North American distribution of “He’s been terribly active since he left her with Karen Catchpole, formerly a senior editor at Jane. “It was a bit of a London-based Pout color cosmetics, and Bloomingdale’s. He loves to be busy. He loves to staff restructuring,” said Matusik, reached at her home Friday. “It was decided licensing Grant boxing equipment into apparel travel and he loves venture types of business- the position I had didn’t really fit my creative needs.” Matusik, who joined the and lifestyle categories, among other projects. es…though the consulting business requires launch in February, said she is working on freelance projects. He also is launching Kelly Hoppen contem- keeping a fair number of irons in the fire. Meanwhile, it’s finally becoming clear how Shop Etc. will differ from porary home fashions in Bergdorf Goodman Clients and consultants come and go.” Lucky, its Condé Nast rival. According to a Hearst insider who has seen the and Neiman Marcus and arranging licenses for Dessange is to be launched on QVC in prototype, Shop Etc.’s organization is meant to mimic the experience of Kelly Hoppen tabletop, sheets, furniture, floor October, tie-in with a “leading” salon in New walking through a department store, with content groupings reflecting the coverings and lamps. York City and is intended to eventually be sold division of merchandise between floors. As previously reported in WWD, the Traub is moving his namesake consulting at a Sephora-like specialty chain, Traub said, magazine’s Aug. 4 launch party at Milk Studios also will have a department company, Marvin Traub Associates, from without providing specifics. About six years store theme. Each invitation comes attached to a plastic antitheft tag; Financo Inc., the investment banking firm, into ago, Dessange was sold in the U.S. but pulled whoever’s tag sets off the alarms will win a $10,000 shopping spree. That offices at 350 Park Avenue. Traub and Financo out of the market amid questions about the will be one lucky — er, fortunate — person. — J.B. chief Gilbert W. Harrison immigration of some have said Traub would He loves to be busy. employees. Dessange is continue as a senior advis- known for offering mod- JACKING IT IN: Dennis Publishing has axed its er to the company. “He loves to travel and erate-priced to upscale monthly men’s magazine, Jack, due to poor “I like to say I’m start- products made from performance on the newsstand and competition ing my third career,” he loves venture types Normandy clay and cov- from men’s weeklies Nuts and Zoo. The British title Traub said. “My first was ering the gamut from competed with GQ, Esquire and Arena at the with Bloomingdale’s. My of businesses. medicinal to volumizing premium end of the market. “Men in the target second was with Financo. products. market who discover Jack love it. We just can’t find And my third is here, — Philip Miller, Tri-Artisan Partners” With Pout, “we run the enough of them on the newsstand,” said Alistair Marvin Traub Associates.” business in the U.S,” Ramsay, the company’s chief executive officer. Traub said he needed more space than Traub said, adding that he’s widened the distri- “We’ve got 10,000 subscribers and have enjoyed Financo provided because his business is grow- bution to Henri Bendel, Sephora and Holt excellent support from our advertisers, but the ing. He acknowledged that his “major relation- Renfrew. Louis of Boston is also expected to newsstand landscape has got much trickier in the ships” are with his own clients and that his firm start selling the brand and Victoria’s Secret has last 12 months.” Jack was launched by James has 25 projects in development, though some begun testing the line. A Jack cover. Brown, former editor of British GQ and Loaded, are more preliminary than others, including a Traub left Bloomingdale’s in 1991, started under his I Feel Good publishing company in April 2002. Since Dennis’ $8.1 250,000-square-foot upscale department store Marvin Traub Associates, his consulting prac- million acquisition of IFG — which included the titles Bizarre, Fortean Times in Athens that he hopes to help plan. tice, in 1992, and became senior adviser to and Viz — in May 2003, Jack’s circulation increased by 17.1 percent to He does, however, already have a team in Financo in 1994. Now he has started serving as 39,052. However, the launch of men’s weekly magazines, including Zoo Panama City to retenant the Multicentro one a senior adviser to The Mayfair Group, a fund million-square-foot shopping center, and is manager focused on private equity and global Weekly and Nuts — launched in January by Emap and IPC, respectively — consulting on the plan for the four million- real estate investments, and Compass Advisers, has meant that, due to major promotions from publishers, they have been square-foot Morgan Center complex on the a $900 million fund in Europe. His office is at more visible on newsstands. The August issue of the title will be the last and grounds of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. Mayfair headquarters. will go on sale July 22. “This was a tough call, but we’re committed to With a hotel, apartments, offices and retail, the Ira Neiman, retired chairman and ceo of growing Dennis Publishing in an efficient and profitable manner,” added center is inspired by the six-month-old Time Bergdorf Goodman, who does consulting and Ramsay. “Innovative publishing, by its very nature, requires risk, which in Warner Center here, which Traub also helped serves on boards, said of Traub: “If you keep turn encompasses the possibility of failure.” — Ellen Burney conceive. Among his other real estate projects, looking for work, you can always find it. I’m he’s been helping to reshape Moscow’s largest looking the other way, but Marvin is unbeliev- KEEPING IT CLEAN: With Rolling Stone bereft of its top editor following Ed department stores, Tsum, into a designer empo- able. He never gives up working.” Needham’s defection to Maxim, one might think Jann Wenner would have better rium having brought in Armani, Bottega Veneta, In addition to his staff of eight, Traub has 15 things to worry about than the state of his minions’ cubicles. Apparently not. Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and other brands to consultants, including Jim Rosenfield, former Wenner employees were told last week to prepare for their annual desk the 250,000-square-foot setting. “Visualize a president of CBS, Linda Beauchamp, who was inspection, which will take place sometime this week. The famously fastidious Barneys or a Bloomingdale’s,’’ he said. “That’s president of Donna Karan men’s wear and Susan Wenner conducts the inspection himself, searching for unsightly piles of paper, what it looks like now.” Dell Inc., and Dawn Mello, former president of promotional swag and excessive personal effects. “Everyone’s scrambling to On the start-up side, Traub said he’s launch- Bergdorf Goodman and former Gucci executive, tidy up,” reported one Wenner staffer Friday. “It’s just too funny.” ing a Web site, called seethatagain.com, to help lined up to work on an assignment basis. Perhaps it’s time for Mr. Wenner to catch up on his New Yorker reading. In consumers identify and buy products seen on His business generally involves consulting a March 2002 article titled “The Social Life of Paper,” scribe Malcolm television and in music videos. He’s working on malls to beef up the merchandising, brand- Gladwell concluded that cluttered cubicles are typically an aid, not an with AOL, which has video streaming. building through licensing and increased dis- Traub is also working on an upcoming luxu- tribution; and start-ups that he could have a obstacle, to efficiency. “The dismay people feel at the sight of a messy ry television network for lifestyle shows and stake in. Traub got a piece of Jacques desk…arises from a fundamental confusion about the role that paper plays in some elements of home shopping intended to Dessange, by forming a company called French our lives,” Gladwell wrote. “The messy desk is not necessarily a sign of debut by the fall of 2005. “We’ve been retained Beauty Services to market the brand in disorganization.” — J.B. for it. There are a group of television industry America. “It does $800 million euros in vol- people working on this. It’s 90 percent funded,” ume,’’ Traub said. PHOTO BY KEITHPHOTO BY SMITH 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 Obituary WWW.WWD.COM The Passing of a Social Lion

PARIS — The Baron Alexis de Rede, the social grandee known for his opulent balls, fastidious manners and grand tastes, died in Paris on July 9. He was 82. eye® Rede expired “in a second” after his heart stopped at the American Hospital, where he had gone for tests, said Pierre Bergé, one of Rede’s close friends. An intimate mass was celebrated July 13 at Saint Louis en L’Isle, the church near Rede’s residence at the Hotel Lambert. He then was interred in a private ceremony. His body was laid in a crypt at Père Lachaise near that of his mentor, Arturo Lopez- Wilshaw. A larger memorial is being planned for September. “He lived in another era,” said Bergé. “There is no one who lives like that today.” “He was the most refined person I knew,” added Doris Brynner, another of the Baron’s friends. Indeed, Rede moved in the rarified circles of the last century’s greatest aesthetes. He was known for throwing sumptuous parities, the apotheosis of which was his Oriental Ball in 1969, when he transformed the Hotel Lambert into a lavish Eastern fantasy with turbaned figures on enormous papier-mâché elephants and platoons of half-naked Nubian torchbearers. One guest came dressed as a pagoda; her costume was so big and rigid that she had to be hauled in on a truck and was unable to sit down. “You couldn’t give a party like that today,” recalled Rede in a 1996 interview in W. “It would be impossible.” The son of an Austrian banker, Rede was born Alexis de Rosenberg in Zurich, Switzerland, in 1922. He attended Le Rosey, the school Bergé calls “the chicest in the world.” The Baron’s fellow pupils included Prince Rainer of Monaco and the future Shah of Iran. After his father committed suicide in the late Thirties, and with the threat of Nazism looming, he set off for America, where he lived in New York and later moved to Los Angeles, where he met Salvador Dali, among many others. But his life was irrevocably changed back in New York, when he met Lopez-Wilshaw, a Chilean with a large fortune made in fertilizer. “[Rede] had a difficult childhood and his great success was to succeed at life,” said the Baron Guy de Rothschild. “He was 19 when he met Arturo Lopez, who was a marvelous father to him. He started him off in life, imbued him with taste and made social introductions.” Baron Alexis de Rede in St.-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 1971. Legend has it that Lopez-Wilshaw, who was married to his cousin, Patricia, offered Baron Alexis de Rede in St.-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 1971. Rede $1 million to return with him to Paris, where he had a house in the posh neighborhood of Neuilly. The handsome He lived in another era. up costumes and decors. Rede is said to have demurred at first. “ “The first time [Rede] asked Yves to do something was in But soon Rede was in Paris by Lopez-Wilshaw’s side, having 1956, before Yves succeeded Christian Dior,” said Bergé. “He picked up a new baron’s title along the way. In 1949, Rede took There is no one who lives asked him to decorate the Hotel Lambert [for the Bal des up residence in one of the city’s impressive homes, the Hotel Tetes]. Yves made huge pyramids out of pineapples.” Saint Lambert, built by Louis Le Vau and with ceilings painted by Le like that today. Laurent designed hats and coiffures for the party, too. Brun. Rede entered a vibrant social hubbub of larger-than-life, ”— Pierre Bergé After Lopez-Wilshaw’s death, Rede forged the second great aesthetically obsessed characters — and he lived up to their friendship of his life with Marie-Hélène de Rothschild. The expectations. Nancy Mitford dubbed him “La Pompadour de nos jours.” two teamed up on many of the legendary balls Rothschild threw at Ferrières, the “Surrounded by Arturo Lopez, then knowing Charles de Beistegui, knowing Rothschild chateau east of Paris. In 1975, he persuaded her and her husband, the Emilio Terry, Georges Geoffroy, Christian Berard, knowing all the people who had Baron Guy, to purchase the Hotel Lambert. They allowed Rede to keep his taste at that time — Marie-Laure de Noailles — if you didn’t get something from apartments and they shared the house until the Baron’s death. them, you had nothing,” Rede told W. “We did everything together,” recalled Rothschild. “He lived 30 years with us. We After years of close friendship, Lopez-Wilshaw died in 1962, bequeathing half of went on vacation together. He was the perfect friend.” his fortune to his widow and the other half to Rede. Taste remained at the front of After Marie-Hélène died in 1996, Rede grew close to Charlotte Aillaud, sister of Rede’s mind. He was an avid collector of art objects, frequenting antique dealers the French chanson legend Juliette Greco. The two were inseparable. They were such as Nicolas Landau and Jacques Kugel. last photographed in public at a Paris Opera gala in June. “He was so knowledgeable about everything 17th and 18th century,” said Denise Hale, who first met Rede in 1961, says he will be remembered not only as Brynner. “He didn’t like the modern so much.” a formidable host, but as a man of impeccable taste. “He was the most elegant man Receiving an invitation to luncheon or supper with Rede was highly coveted. He I’ve ever met,” she said. “No one did things better than he.” was known for exquisite company, food and service, including footmen in full livery. For Rede’s part, he viewed his sophistication as part nature, part nurture. “The food was always fantastic,” said Brynner. “Ah, the flowers….That’s the way “It takes a long time to know how to live,” he told W. “Though I think it must be it was with the parties. They were all perfection. So much research went into them. something [partially] inborn. Elegance is how you walk, how you hold yourself. But I But that’s what he really loved doing.” saw people with great taste.” He hosted more memorable parties and dinners, promoting young couturiers —Robert Murphy, such as Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent in the process by asking them to whip with contributions from Alison Burwell LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Amid the flurry of luncheons, polo matches and dinner parties on Saturday in the Hamptons, the arts-inclined social set made their way to the Parrish Art Museum’s annual Midsummer Gala for a Southampton-style black-and-white ball. Burberry’s Rose Marie Bravo breezed in before heading back to London on Sunday. “I’ll be back here next month for vacation,” said Bravo, who has a home in nearby East Moriches. Lorraine Bracco made a big splash when she arrived with Patricia Duff, while Kathy Hilton — never one to shy away from the spotlight — dished about her starring role on the upcoming Rose reality series “The Good Life,” as a coach for aspiring socialites. “It’s not supposed to be mean-spirited,” she enthused. “But if they do something I don’t like, I’m gonna tell them. I’ll Marie Christopher be very strict.” Bravo Heinz Bravo Back in the city, the young and civic-minded social set made their way to the Friends of the High Line benefit on Wednesday, which raised over $600,000 to help build a park on the abandoned West Side rail structure. It was only the fourth annual benefit for the organization, but its status as a hot New York charity is undeniable. (There was a 190-person waitlist for dinner.) Beforehand, Diane von Furstenberg hosted cocktails at her studio, where design visions were unveiled. An elegant dinner followed at Phillips, de Pury & Company, which overlooks the High Line. Guests included Christopher Heinz (who was strategically seated next to the eligible bachelorette Fernanda Niven), Alexandre von Furstenberg, Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel and Patricia Duff Uma Thurman, who slipped in before dessert to join boyfriend Andre Balazs. with Lorraine “Everybody’s coming to the neighborhood, and they want the neighborhood to be nice,” Bracco in Joanne de said party planner Bronson van Wyck, who designed the dinner’s decor. Indeed, the real estate Alexandra Shiva Kirstie and Douglas Guardiola at around the High Line is disappearing fast. Alexandre von Furstenberg recently purchased a inin MarcMarc JacobsJacobs Ryan Bloch at Hannant. the Parrish. building that flanks the property, and his mother, Diane, and Barry Diller bought one nearby, at the High Line. the High Line. ARRISH PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH; HIGH LINE BENEFIT BY STEVE EICHNER KEITH SMITH; HIGH LINE BENEFIT BY ARRISH PHOTOS BY

while Harvey Weinstein might be eyeing a site in the area, as well. P MENS | WOMENS | KIDS

WWDMAGIC joins the MAGIC Marketplace at the Las Vegas Convention Center. Doing business just got easier. Get ready to be impressed.

August 30 – September 2, 2004 Las Vegas Convention Center

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW SHAPTER | WWW.ANDREWSHAPTER.COM 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 sses sses

NEW YORK — Even for evening, designers are harnessing the power of the sun. The season’s flowing goddess looks amp up the wattage in a cheerful palette of yellows. Sun Godde Sun Godde RICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: KATHERINE NICHOLS; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI AND BOBBI QUEEN NICHOLS; STYLED BY KATHERINE ASSISTANT: RICOMI; FASHION PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: SARA H./SUPREME; HAIR BY LAURA NAKAMOTO AT ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP BY MELLUSO/WARREN T MELLUSO/WARREN ERICKSEN; MODEL: TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP BY KYLE BY PHOTOS BY ARTISTS NAKAMOTO AT LAURA H./SUPREME; HAIR BY SARA Naeem Khan’s silk chiffon skirt and cashmere top. Stuart Weitzman sandals. WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 7

Eric Gaskins’ beaded rayon jersey gown.

Heidi Weisel’s silk chiffon gown.

Carmen Marc Vera Wang’s Valvo’s silk tulle gown. draped silk chiffon dress. 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004

Te xtile & Trade Report European Mills Look on Brighter Side

By Evan Clark and Daniela Gilbert “We’re all a little bit more used to the higher prices,” she said. “We’re not worried about maintaining figures. It’s not a math-oriented show. It’s more of a creative show.” NEW YORK — Fabric mills exhibiting at the European Preview show last week are The biggest trend news was the importance of color, which was seen on an abun- dealing with a weakened dollar, though they weren’t fixated on China’s production dance of tweeds and textured goods. However, a new direction also emerged with a potential, which has been causing strife for sourcing around the world. move toward quieter textures and colors. Many mills showed both looks. That attitude was reflected in the popularity of brightly colored collections at At Picchi, novel looks continued in the form of chunky, multicolor tweeds. the show, which ran Wednesday and Thursday at Manhattan’s Metropolitan “Color is not going away,” said Fred Rottman, president of the mill’s U.S. opera- Pavilion. European Preview also included Italian mills that had shown at I- tions. He pointed out burgundy, purple, green, blue and especially pink as hot colors. Textile, which was produced by the Italian Trade Commission and had its last edi- “Pink just won’t give up,” he said. tion in October. In addition to all the bright tweeds, a group of peach wool blends showed the mill’s There were 146 exhibitors at the show, and more than 3,000 people attended. softer side. Made of wool and nylon, the collection featured quieter textures that in- European Preview looks ahead to Première Vision, the large fabric show set for Sept. cluded chevrons, as well as large and small basketweaves. 21-24 in Paris. At Luigi Boggio Casero, located in Italy’s Biella region, a softer approach was also Many mill executives and sales agents discussed the weakened position of the dol- seen in the collection of blurred tweeds with touches of color or metallics. As far as lar against the euro. Over the past two years, the currencies have gone from being brights, the mill showed a mélange of looks with green, turquoise, pink and violet. roughly on par to a dollar buy- “To use so much color is re- ing just over 0.8 euros. ally new for us,” said presi- “It’s quite difficult to set a Marc Rozier’s silk. dent Eugenio Boggio Casero. price for the whole season,” Other mills with both looks said Alessandro Barni, chief included Borgosesia, Italy- executive officer of Bel & Co, based Tessitura di Creva- a mill based in Prato, Italy. cuore, with both brilliantly Phil Fox, president of Fox colored tweeds and softer pat- Fabrics Inc., a sales agency terns in ivory, as well as with offices in New York and French mill Clarenson, where Los Angeles, put a positive tweeds are still strong, ac- spin on the situation: “The cording to president Oliver only negative that we’re still Clarenson. encountering is the weak dol- “The purples, oranges and lar versus the euro,” he said. greens are doing especially Prices are 30 to 40 percent well,” he said. He also higher than in 2002 because of showed textured plains in the currency shift, he said. purple and camel. Otherwise, Fox said the traffic For some buyers, all the at the show was good. color and tweed was a bit much. “We’ve seen all of our best TTessituraessitura didi “I’m amazed that the tweed customers,” he said. Crevacuore’s wool thing is still going and that’s Mills were also watching andand nylon.nylon. it’s continuing with such the pending drop of quotas gusto,” said Sarah Lord, vice on apparel and textiles by president of fabric develop- the 147 countries of the ment at Polo Ralph Lauren World Trade Organization at Corp. “It’s still a little early to the end of this year. This is Picchi’s wool and nylon. see where it will all go.” anticipated to open the way As for color, Lord was veer- for low-wage and high-capac- ing toward the paler, washed- ity countries, particularly out tones. She said, “They just China, to pick up market look fresher to me.” share in all areas of the ap- LuLuigiigiigi BoggioBoggioBoggio Tweeds in “night bright” parel supply chain. colors looked the best to Casero’s “I don’t think it’s going to do Stephanie Schaich, whose wool, acetate, that much, because there’s wool, acetate, eponymous line is a division nylon and still a lot of inconsistency com- nylon and of Barry Bricken. ing out of China,’’ Fox said. polyester.polyester. “They’re the new tweeds Similarly, sales agent for me,” Schaich said. “Where- Francesca DeVito, president as before, the trend in tweed of her namesake firm, said, colors was inspired by the “There’s going to be a lot of LLanificioanificio Forties and Fifties, now richer, people who are definitely Bisentino’s almost Byzantine brights that going to go to China, but you wool and are shot with colored Lurex can’t do everything in China nylon.nylon. are going to be important or [South] Korea.” going forward.” The workmanship between Her favorite group of hues, fabrics produced in those meanwhile, centered around countries and in Europe dif- saturated shades of blue. fers, she said. “I really liked the intense “These qualities cannot be cobalt blues,” she said. duplicated in China because “They’re rich and velvety.” of the yarns and weaving,” At Prato-based Lanificio DeVito added, waving her Bisentino, U.S. export manag- hand at a rack of samples. er Lorenzo Gramigni saw Mantero’s wool DeVito said business was Mantero’s wool strong play in all colors, from and nylon. picking up at the show, with and nylon. pale to bright. buyers still looking for sum- “We feel it’s important to PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY mer 2005 and getting a peek at diversify the tweed look a lit- fall fabrics. tle, so this season we really concentrated on specialty yarns that give a more tradi- “People are coming, and they’re more specific about what they’re looking for,” she tional British look in place of the fancier look,” he said, noting that ethnic looks said. “People who are looking now are serious. There are so many of us out there, were also key. “The ethnic brights mixed with the faded florals look really fresh they don’t have time to just look.” this season.” The bigger firms with several divisions were “getting better at knowing each of Gratacos, meanwhile, continued with its novelty looks that use special yarns to their divisions and who their buyer is,” she said. achieve strong contrasts in texture and color. Prints, meanwhile, also gave buyers a The Italian mills seemed to be pleased to be back. feast of color. At Marc Rozier, brightly colored velvets were dyed, burned out and then Nicola Nannucci, export manager at Nannucci & C., based in Prato, said it was overprinted. In contrast, there was also a softly colored print with a motif taken from better for I-Textile and European Preview to merge back into one. a butterfly’s wing, featured on silk. “Here, you can find everybody,” he said. Overall, Nannucci said the show was Mantero also showed a mix of the different trends with saturated prints and good, with plenty of potential customers. jacquards, as well as a wool mesh that used navy as a base, and a jacquard with pur- “It’s much, much better to be together,” said Bel & Co.’s Barni. “It’s better service ple, orange and touches of Lurex that was placed on a beige ground. for the customer. They don’t have to share the date.” Polo’s Lord felt that metallics are fast becoming a staple. “What neutrals were to Gera Gallico, president of New York-based Vinci Inc., who was selling the lines of the Nineties, is what color and metallics are to us now,” she said. five mills at the show, said each of the businesses had increased over a year ago at Bianchini Férier, the French fabric house known for its colorful prints, delivered European Preview. some deeply saturated looks on silk. At Weisbrod Zürrer, based in Hausen Am Albis, “People are excited…because there is a lot of newness at the show,” she said. “In Switzerland, three different colorways — soft pastels, burnt midtones, and deep darks every line, I have more newness than in the previous seasons.” — defined the collection. Highlights included a large, colorful patchwork made of an Overall, Gallico said the show was more relaxed. acetate blend and a black tweed with a glossy, laminated jacquard design. WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM 2005: A Vision of Growth for Asian Firms By Scott Malone Manhattan Center on West 34th Street. Innovation Asia cally 25 percent of U.S. retail prices. ran Tuesday through Thursday at Amuse restaurant on “I don’t deal in those $2 or $3 items,” he said. NEW YORK — Even in Asia, textile and apparel manu- West 18th Street. Each had 23 exhibitors. The end of the quota system may hurt India “if facturers are struggling for ways to deal with the cut- Also at Innovation Asia, S.P. Munda, chief executive neighboring countries start dumping goods at low throat price competition many anticipate when the officer of Rajat Collections, a garment supplier based in prices,” he said. quota system ends Jan. 1. Bangalore, said his company believes its service niche Some small Indian companies view the end of quotas Executives from several Asian countries said at a will help it survive after 2005. as an opportunity rather than a cause for concern. pair of trade shows in Manhattan last week that they “We’re a small company, so we can offer a lot of serv- Shanmugam Radhakrishnan, ceo of Vastra Apparels, hoped the end of the restraints that have governed the ice,” he said, noting that the firm employs about 40 peo- a garment maker based in Tamil Nadu, said he made global apparel trade for three decades will benefit ple. “My customers are in touch with me all the time.” his first business visit to the U.S. last week to prepare them. But they also expressed concern about what will He said the quota limits haven’t much affected his himself for 2005. happen when import caps are lifted. company because of its size, and because he receives “With the phaseout of the quotas next year, we want- N. Narahari, export manager with Madura Garments, quota rights free from the Indian government owing to ed to see if we could line up four or five small cus- a $110 million apparel maker that is part of the $4.5 bil- the higher price of his goods. His company’s tops carry tomers here in the U.S.,” he said. “With the quotas going lion AV Birla Group conglomerate, said his company ex- an average $8 price, FOB — a measure of the cost of away, there will be a chance for growth, so we wanted to pected to boost the capacity of factories in Bangalore, production and transport to a foreign port that is typi- start to build a base here.” India, after the 147 nations of the World Trade Organization drop their quotas. “That will certainly help,” he said in an interview at the GO•UP Innovation Asia show, sponsored by lyocell brand Tencel. “We don’t have a lot of quota now, so that will allow us to expand.” Narahari raised a concern fa- miliar to many domestic manufac- turers: The prospects are good, he said, “as long as the U.S. controls China.” The U.S. does have the op- tion to limit its imports of Chinese goods for as long as three years under a safeguard provision al- lowed by China’s WTO entry deal. China’s share of the U.S. im- ported textile and apparel mar- ket has been growing rapidly, even with the quotas in place. For the year ended May 31, China shipped $12.41 billion worth of those goods to the U.S., a 21.5 percent increase from the previous year that gave it a lead- ing 15.9 percent market share, according to Commerce Depart- ment data. Over the same peri- od, India, the U.S.’s fourth- ranked supplier of textiles and apparel, shipped $3.25 billion I demand. worth of goods, 0.6 percent high- er than the previous year, and had a 4.2 percent market share. With strong corporate back- ing, the Birla Group has invest- ed in technological advantages, Narahari said. The company li- censed the rights to use Nano- Tex fabric treatments from the International Textile Group unit in its shirts, pants and suits. He said offering higher-quality goods with distinct properties such as those provided by the Nano-Tex processes may help companies avoid being drawn into price wars. That also was a prime con- cern at Meantime Enterprise Co., a Taipei, Taiwan-based yarn spinner and knitter that showed at PanTextiles New York. Cheng Ning, the company’s representative in New York, said her firm, which employs 130 and produces 600,000 pounds of yarn a month, was concerned about going head-to-head with Chinese manufacturers after the quotas are lifted. “We are trying to focus on something specialized,” she I make a value choice. said. “We’re investing in product I prefer garments made using development to differentiate fabrics and yarns labelled ourselves.” "BIELLA The Art of Excellence." Offering the same products as Chinese suppliers, Cheng said, The mark of excellence which embodies the best might be a losing proposition, of style combined with attentiveness to health and wellbeing. www.biellatheartofexcellence.com “because those manufacturers Chosen by: Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli - Botto Giuseppe & Figli - Tonella - Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 - Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti can put out there products at Ing. Loro Piana & C. - Fratelli Piacenza - Vitale Barberis Canonico - Lanificio Fratelli Garlanda - Filatura Marchi Giovanni very low prices, sometimes even Pettinatura Italiana - Tintoria di Trivero - Filatura di Trivero - Filatura di Pollone - Lanificio di Lessona - Botto Poala - Italfil below cost.” Lanificio Luigi Botto - Filatura di Crosa - Gartex - Lanificio Tessilstrona - Lanificio Fratelli Fila - Biella Vertical Textile - Quality Biella. PanTextiles, organized by the Taiwan Textile Federation, ran Wednesday and Thursday at the 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Dermalogica’s Sci-Fi Skin Trip By Rose Apodaca Jones of the grand window, a bench allows visi- tors to take a load off and read quirky SANTA MONICA, Calif. — For the design titles on aesthetics and style stocked in a enthusiast, there’s much to get giddy over tall bookcase. A neighborhood’s sense of at the new Dermalogica Skin Center here community attracted Wurwand to the 1923 on Montana Avenue, the casually tony building, which was thoroughly modern- shopping thoroughfare that is home to the ized inside, complete with polished con- skin care brand’s first namesake and very crete floors. cutting-edge flagship. Yet, it’s the two The spirit and a few elements of a giant freestanding treatment rooms that library also were invoked. Besides the nar- resemble semigloss molars — yes, as in row case of books, there are horizontal teeth — that really grab the spotlight. rows of chalky white shelves stacked deep “We started calling them pods and it with product and a floor-to-ceiling ladder just stuck,” said Jane Wurwand, the lithe, that rolls across shelves to access items up brunette British expat who in 1986, along high. “Just as essential as books are, so is with husband Raymond, founded the Los skin care,” noted Wurwand. “It’s not a lux- Angeles-based skin care line known for ury. You should be able to touch it, read its no-nonsense philosophy, minimalist the back, see the price.” Customers are white-and-gray packaging and cult-like similarly encouraged to play at the following. The new center also marks the Product Pool, a four-foot-long chalky white end of the U.S. opera- rectangular table with a tions of Leonard Drake, wave-like indentation, The pods inside Dermalogica’s flagship. the 32-unit worldwide BEAUTY BEAT where products can be retail arm of the compa- sampled. lull of new age or world music. Dermalogica will host its quasiannual ny, which carried multiple lines. It repre- Products can be tried on at the Skin As for the treatments, the focus is skin international conference in Barcelona, sented “very much a Nineties concept,” Bar. Here, seated at turquoise-colored care. “A big problem in this industry is aiming to attract 3,200 Dermalogica-using believed Wurwand. jelly stools, customers can look in a mir- everyone follows the spa route,” said professionals. With the mushrooming of the Derma- ror and, with the guidance of a therapist Wurwand. “They offer these 15-page menus “My goal is to really change the whole logica brand into what industry sources who supplies a hot towel and Japanese of services. But you end up doing every- perception of professional skin care and estimate is a $100 million-plus company bento box filled with their custom sam- thing in an average way. I wanted to be real- the environment skin is treated in,” said employing a staff of 500 in some 45 ples, they can experiment on them- ly great at one thing. No makeup. No wax. Wurwand. “I really hate that it’s still seen nations, its founders decided to reinvent selves. They also can be set straight on Just skin.” The 45-minute skin treatment is as something mysterious done in Pamela’s its retail business into the Skin Center how to correctly use products. Tea $60. Fifteen-minute “touch therapies” of Pamper Palace. It’s not just about a ‘beau- concept. This 1,662-square-foot unit cele- brewed from flower petals also is serv- the face, scalp and back — along with foot ty treatment.’ It’s so much more essential brated its grand opening with much fan- ed. From there, follow an expanse of reflexology — can be added at $15 a pop. than that.” fare last Wednesday, following a soft open- stained walnut which curves along the While Wurwand is excited to roll out ing this spring. east and south walls and leads to chang- more Skin Centers, she doesn’t expect the “What we wanted to do is get away ing rooms, appointed with sarongs in- next location to open until Spring 2006. Saks’ Brush With Greatness from what exists at most salons and spas, stead of heavy robes, and the front doors Destination is New York, although no NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue hosted which is a front area that is retail and of the pods. lease has yet been signed. its first “Brushes With Greatness” event then this secret netherworld that’s very The treatment pods, of course, are the In the meantime, the company is con- Wednesday night, a soiree that featured quiet where everything goes on,” said centerpiece. Skinny rectangular windows solidating its headquarters, laboratory, an array of beauty industry personalities, Wurwand. “Snooty is not who we are. We go opaque when a treatment is in service. distribution center, warehouse and post- including Laura Mercier, Trish McEvoy, wanted something with less pressure, Inside, the sci-fi quality continues: re- graduate training facility, called The designer Diane von Furstenberg and with more energy. We wanted to bring the cessed lighting gradually, randomly International Dermal Institute, to a Gregory Bays Brown, founder of the Ré kitchen into the restaurant.” changes from 40,000 combinations of col- 150,000-square-foot compound it’s build- Vive skin care brand. The philanthropic With the architectural partnership of ors. Instead of commonly used fluores- ing in Carson, Calif. The move is expected effort benefited Mount Sinai Hospital Abramson Tieger, the space’s openness cent lamps for the treatments, therapists in May 2005. The Institute, founded in and, despite rainstorms, attendance extends beyond the limits of the shop sporting magnified specs spotlight skin 1983, espouses Wurwand’s mantra of edu- topped 800. McEvoy, whose husband is on front. Part of the facade was cut out a few with the crisp, white light used in dental cation: “We don’t sell on the Internet. We the staff at Mount Sinai, roughed the feet off the ground and replaced with a offices. Clients can control the adjust- don’t do direct sales catalogues. We don’t weather in a helicopter from the glass wall that slides open and into the ment of the duvet-covered bed, along with do infomercials. We believe in personal Hamptons. The event raised $10,000 for adjoining wall, providing a truly open link the volume and genre of music: Men tend interaction between the trained skin care the hospital. between outside and inside. On the inside to tune into rock, while women want the professional and people.” In August 2005, —Allison Altmann Bravo Reups With Burberry Fashion Continued from page 2 Burberry is on track to open seven new stores and con- cessions in the current fiscal year, adding approximately 8 percent net retail selling area.

PHOTO BY PATRICK MCMULLEN PATRICK PHOTO BY Burberry said that growth in the U.S. slowed. This was Scoops expected after the company achieved 20 percent growth in that market a year ago. Sales in Korea were still suffer- JITNEY JITTERS: When Kelly Bensimon, a ing from the effects of a volatile macroenvironment. contributor to Hamptons magazine, started “The negative surprise came from the U.S., where working on a book called “American Style” that sales growth moderated to a low-single-digit,” said J.P. is slated for publication this fall, she hit upon Morgan’s Flouquet. “We understand that this was mainly the idea that young designers should have more due to the tough comps set by June 2003, when sales were opportunities to get to know each other. So she very strong, and by relatively significant markdowns.” and her husband, photographer Gilles Rupert Trotter, an equities analyst with Isis Asset Bensimon, threw a party at their East Hampton Management in London, said: “The company had very home Saturday night and invited several of Clockwise from top left: Jamison Earnest from Yellow Fever, Jeffrey Chow, Peter tough comparisons in the U.S. this quarter, but it’s clear that it’s building a very strong business in that market. them for a barbecue. Som, Michelle Smith from Milly, Alice Roi, Eugenia Kim and Julia Neaman. One caveat: Most young designers don’t Burberry is clearly confident, too, about its wholesale have the resources to summer anywhere near the Bensimons’ each designer sat in a makeshift studio for a portrait by business as it refines its department store portfolio.” pad on Further Lane, so it took some complicated maneuvering Bensimon, which they will be able to use as a head shot in Wholesale sales increased 5 percent to $69.2 million to get many of them to the party. Jeffrey Chow took an afternoon their press materials. (37 million pounds) from $65.6 million (35.1 million Hamptons jitney (and, on the way, booked a motel room in “Hopefully, I held up my end of the deal and looked pounds). They rose 10 percent on a constant-currency Montauk rather than ride back late that night). Alice Roi drove OK,” Som said. basis to $72.6 million (38.8 million pounds). The company two hours from Atlantic Beach in Long Island. Peter Som caught added that it is expecting 10 percent underlying whole- a ride with a friend from the Fire Island Pines. Eugenia Kim and STREET WALKERS: Ron Chereskin’s dedication to animal sale sales growth for the fall 2004 season. The majority a friend drove from Long Island’s North Fork in a Chevy pickup causes is going a step beyond his usual inclusion of pets of fall product ships during the second quarter. that stalled on the ferry ride and had to get a jump-start from a up for adoption at his runway shows. On Aug. 3 he will co- Total licensing revenues in the quarter increased by policeman. Three members of the collective As Four, who had host with model Marisol Thomas an acoustic performance 9 percent to $20.8 million (11.1 million pounds) from promised to board a jitney that afternoon, never arrived. by Rob Thomas and Jewel at the China Club to raise funds $19.1 million (10.2 million pounds) and rose by 17 per- For those who did make it, the party was worth the effort. for Sidewalk Angels Foundation, which works with cent to $22.3 million (11.9 million pounds) on a constant- “It’s a nice way to meet other designers and get a chance charities to assist both people and animals on the streets currency basis. to chat on less of a business level, but more of a social of cities across the country. While 200 tickets to the event Volume in the Japanese market was broadly in line level,” Som said. are being sold by invitation, about 40 more are being with the previous year, while global product licensees Kim said she was comparing notes on showrooms and made available in two eBay auctions, one of which opened posted strong sales gains. production with fellow designer Julia Neaman. In addition, on Monday. A second is scheduled on July 26. WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Mauritius Seeks Meeting WTO Looks to Reignite Talks By John Zarocostas status quo, certainly for the remainder of this year and next, and possibly for On Elimination of Quotas GENEVA — After weeks of intense years to come.” diplomacy, the World Trade Organiza- U.S. trade officials said Monday they By Kristi Ellis He reiterated that Mauritius would not tion has circulated a “draft framework” were “studying the text carefully,” and oppose a final decision to extend quotas. in a bid to revive the stalled global added, “We think its important to move WASHINGTON — Mauritius, in the first “China and India have to realize they trade talks by the end of July. forward in the negotiations. Cutting glob- such action by any country, made a formal have a role to play in this,” Craig said. “This Cotton subsidies and reaching agree- al subsidies is good for all concerned.” request Monday for an emergency meeting has to be an ordered system.” ment on how to cut or eliminate tariffs Similarly, the European Union am- of the World Trade Organization to discuss The request is a victory of sorts for a on industrial goods, including textiles, bassador to the WTO, Carlo Trojan, the impact of the elimination of global tex- coalition of 90 U.S. and international appar- apparel and footwear, are viewed as the said the draft WTO text “is a basis for tile and apparel quotas on Jan. 1. el and textile organizations representing 47 most contentious aspects of the draft, as further negotiations.” Jaya Krishna Cuttaree, Mauritius’ minis- countries that has called for a forum to dis- well as the perennial issue of agricul- On the issue of cotton and the subsi- ter of foreign affairs, international trade and cuss the onslaught of apparel imports from ture, WTO trade ambassadors said. dies paid by rich countries to their regional cooperation, outlined the plea in a China, and to a lesser extent India, when Negotiators have until the end of a farmers, which Brazil and many West letter to WTO direc- global quotas are re- meeting, scheduled to begin next African nations say is unfair, the text tor-general Supachai moved as part of a Tuesday, to jockey for advantage and states: “Cotton continues to be a vital Panitchpakdi, said Virtually the entire WTO mandate. fine-tune the draft, senior officials issue for a number of members. It will Peter Craig, trade It is also a critical said. A failure to agree on a framework be addressed ambitiously and expedi- commissioner of Mau- “developing world is step in getting the by the end of this month may deliver a tiously as an integral part of the agricul- ritius’ embassy in issue on the floor of serious blow to the global trade system ture negotiations.” Washington. calling for a solution the world trade body. and set back efforts to lower barriers to Some diplomats said the draft text Craig said Cutta- “Based on those global commerce, the officials said. falls too short of the demands of West ree’s letter contains a to this pending crisis. reports…this move- The global trade talks, derailed last African cotton producers — Benin, paragraph saying the ment has made the year after a meeting in Cancún, Mexico, Burkina Faso, Mali and Chad — for the group of 71 African, — Auggie Tantillo, AMTAC” necessary step from resulted in a stalemate. The situation issue to be examined on a stand-alone Caribbean and Pacific an industry-led effort will not affect the elimination of appar- basis and reflects the wishes of the U.S. countries, known as the ACP, also endorses to a government-endorsed effort,” said el and textiles quotas agreed upon a and the EU that it be addressed in the an emergency meeting, though none of the Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the decade ago and set to occur Jan. 1. farm talks segment. Others said the lan- governments cosigned the letter. American Manufacturing Trade Action Supachai Panitchpakdi, WTO director guage is ambiguous and could be inter- Mauritius has lost 30 companies employ- Coalition, which represents U.S. textile general, told reporters last week he was preted to mean cotton may be fast- ing 15,000 apparel and textile workers in the firms. “We understand it’s not just “more encouraged by the outcome” be- tracked in the farm talks, which is the past 18 months because of the anxiety relat- Mauritius, but that the ACP has fully en- cause a “strong foundation has been laid.” goal of the African nations. ed to the anticipated shift in global com- dorsed this movement. That means virtually Panitchpakdi said in a statement Matthew Nwagwu, Nigeria’s WTO merce in less than six months, Craig said. the entire developing world is calling for a Monday, “It is only member governments ambassador, speaking for the Africa “There are many small countries out solution to this pending crisis.” which have the power to bring about Group, said, “Cotton should be treated there, especially sub-Saharan African coun- One proposal is a three-year extension of convergence.” He said the draft paper as a stand-alone issue and not part of tries that have small, infant industries who quotas to give countries more time to pre- “is not an agreed text, but a negotiating the overall negotiations on agriculture.” are concerned about what is going to hap- pare for a quota-free world, but any solution document. We expect that it will evolve The ambassadors noted that trade pen after Jan. 1, 2005,” Craig said. “The re- will be based on the outcome of a WTO over the coming days.” ministers from the four cotton-export- quest is not for an extension of [quotas]. The meeting if it advances. Tantillo said the But he warned the 147 member coun- ing nations will hold talks in request is to look into how small countries coalition is hopeful that a full-fledged WTO tries that a “failure this month means Washington this week with senior U.S. and infant industries can be protected.” meeting will be scheduled in September. the continuation of an unsatisfactory officials on the cotton question.

fabric@MAGIC August 30 - September 2, 2004 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, Nevada

Leading domestic & international suppliers. Thousands of name brand and private label designers and buyers. 2 The perfect material for success. unique opportunities to find cutting-edge domestic & international resources fashionfabric including: international exhibition Fabric & Trim, Leather & Suede, October 5 - 7, 2004 Fiber, New Design Technology, Jacob Javits Convention Center Fashion Publications, Trend Services New York City and Educational Seminars! North America’s largest textile, trim and leather event will be newly expanded this season to TO EXHIBIT CALL: 888.964.5100 or 917.326.6237 feature a most comprehensive array of Fall/Winter 2005/2006 Collections. TO ATTEND CALL: 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792

EMAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.fabricshow.com 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report The Real Diehl: Left of Center

NEW YORK — Designer Mary Jo Diehl was ready to go to unit sales this year to more than 3,000 units. The company will continue court to fight the $30 ticket she received for selling second- to develop one-of-a-kind pieces that can take months to complete. hand clothes on a Williamsburg, , sidewalk last Milisic declined to provide a figure for annual sales. He said the com- month. The way she sees it, fashion is art and should be pany is in the black and plans to court financial backers. permissible to sell on city streets. Consider the firm’s Brand New Me group of dresses and separates “People forget about the artistry of fashion,” Diehl said. made from plackets of vintage men’s button-down shirts. Leaf-shaped “All artists want to connect with people. Fashion designers pieces of men’s shirts imprinted with the wearer’s contact informa- have it easier than anyone else, because they are literally tion serve as detachable business cards. The Brand New Me name touching their customers with their work.” pokes fun at the branding frenzy among designers. Although she got word Monday the charges were “You’re giving a piece of yourself to a person, and that makes you dropped, her willingness to debate the issue was rooted have contact with that person,’’ Diehl said. “My clothes are a passport to more in principle than financial need. House of Diehl, the any sort of experience you want. They make every person who wears collection she designs, is meant to be thought-provoking. them feel like a celebrity.” “I think fashion should make you think,” said Diehl, a Some celebrities actually do wear their customized clothes. Pop native New Yorker. “We are a visually sophisticated society. star Monica wore a brown multicolored stripe House of Diehl Fashion is a language that tells stories and shows what the minidress for her video “U Should’ve Known Betta.” world looks like at this important time.” Diehl and Milisic have made names for themselves with “instant If all this sounds a bit philosophical, that’s not by chance. couture” — public performances where they pick a person and design Diehl and her business partner, Roman Milisic, were both phi- an outfit in 15 minutes or less. The Warholian time frame was meant losophy majors in college and first became friendly by swap- to be tongue-in-cheek, but the overall aim is to make potential cus- ping philosophical ideas. Neither studied fashion or business, tomers part of the design process. Now they are securing sponsorship but their unconventional approach is earning them fans in the for next year’s instant couture 10-country fashion and art worlds. tour, with stops planned for Paris, Milan, During an interview in House of Diehl’s lower Manhattan Berlin, Asia and South Africa. studio, the pair outlined several initiatives. Among them: JOHN GETTINGS DIEHL PHOTOS BY KEITH GERCHICK; PHOTO BY INSTANT The new rtw collection wholesales from ● A 10-country tour for their instant $100 to $1,200 — a bargain compared to couture — outfits made in public places House of Diehl’s one-of-a-kind pieces, which in 15 minutes — is planned for next year. are in the $8,000 to $10,000 range. Accessories ● House of Diehl expects to double are also offered in the rtw line, including a this year’s annual sales due partly to its belt that looks like a tape measure and a T- new ready-to-wear collection. shirt that reads “I Know What You Did Last ● The two-year-old company will Season.” The latter was featured in one of have a retrospective at the Museum of Henri Bendel’s Fifth Avenue windows earli- Contemporary Art in North Adams, er this month. Mass., in January. House of “It’s always been interesting to me that ● London’s Fashion Textile Museum Diehl took fashion and intelligence are antagonistic. will feature House of Diehl in an exhibi- six months Women use fashion as a tool to express them- tion next spring. selves. But if they look too good, they’re ● to create House of Diehl is the only American this corset assumed to be unintelligent,” Diehl said. “We design force to qualify as a finalist for made of create fashion for very sophisticated, savvy “Fashion Triumph 2004,” an internation- women.” plackets… al competition to be decided this fall in House of Diehl in the midst of “instant couture.” As a sign of how the company is melding Austria. and eight fashion and music, the spring 2005 collec- ● In September, House of Diehl will host a fashion show in a yet-to-be named gallery. minutes to tion includes a customized “DJ belt,” which Even their TriBeCa office space is out of the norm, with its four-person Jacuzzi. The his- make this allows buyers to select miniature versions of toric red brick building on Church Street once housed a strip club. More recently, musi- creation their seven favorite album covers, which are cian Wyclef Jean used part of the space as an office. (above). slipped into the belt’s insets. Covers can be House of Diehl, along with Zac Posen, Damien Loeb, Zoya Todorovic and Nancy changed. To create a buzz about the item, Whiskey — all of whom have offices nearby — are doing what they can to help revive belts are being given to Junior Vasquez, Eve, Princess Superstar and Bjork. the downtown real estate market. On a broader spectrum, the company is determined “If I’m going to put something out in the world, I don’t want it to have existed to have a global reach to build sales, and Diehl and Milisic are willing to spend months before,” Diehl said. “These are essential, effective networking clothes. They are the on the road to try to make that happen. ultimate icebreaker.” With the introduction of its ready-to-wear, House of Diehl wants to double its annual — Rosemary Feitelberg Crash Course in Kimonos NEW YORK — Kimonos are often hard to and songs. The leader of the 400-year- come by in the U.S., but they were front old, all-male troupe, Nakamura and center at three recent Japan-spon- Kankuro V, was among the models in the sored fashion shows. Lincoln Center fashion show. It is rare Renowned kimono designer Jane for nonperformers to be allowed on the Aiko Yamano, a force in Japan’s fashion stage, to model kimonos and to be and beauty industries, has been showing shown dressing on stage, Yamano said. off the traditional garb, including a 12- “Even in Japan, that’s not some- layer kimono that dates to 1145, during thing you normally see,” she said. the Heian era, and is of a type generally Women began performing kabuki in only worn by the Imperial Family. Many 1603, but were banned in 1629 because of the styles were made by the Yamano the art form was considered too risqué. Group, her family’s $1 billion fashion Even though traditional kabuki allows and beauty business. only adult men on stage, some women “I wanted to share the Japanese cul- and girls were featured in the fashion ture with New York,” Yamano said. “It shows, which included children’s was 20 years ago my grandmother and I kimonos, wedding-day kimonos and hosted the first kimono fashion show “fantasy kimonos.” The latter included here at Carnegie Hall. Now I’m finally red, white and blue styles that Yamano getting to do my own show.” made with the hopes of one day show- The main event of Yamano’s visit was ing again in the U.S. a free fashion show for 400 on Monday in Ya mano also hosted events at Damrosch Park, next to Lincoln Center Parsons School of Design and at the on Manhattan’s West Side. A tent and Asia Society, where she fielded ques- “hanamichi” stage built by the Heisei tions such as “How do you go to the Nakamura-za, a leading Kabuki theater bathroom in a kimono?” and “What company in Japan, were set up for actu- type of shoes do you wear with them?” al Kabuki performances, which are tak- — R.F. ing place there through July 25. Kabuki features performers in elabo- A variety of traditional and modern kimonos rate costumes enacting tragedies and from Monday’s fashion show at Lincoln comedies through movements, dances Center, modeled on a Kabuki stage. PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY At the 2003 CEO Summit: “I’m not much for, as they say, long-range planning. I say, any figure you write down that’s more than a week in front of you, you’re just making up, so what’s the point?”

Barry Diller dıdıt. Chairman and CEO|InterActiveCorp

WWD DNR Access. | | Information. WWD DNR Retail Apparel CEO Summit CEOSUMMIT Networking. Nov. 3–5, The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, New York City

Call for speaker list and information: 212.630.4779 or [email protected]

Sponsored by: 14 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004

Designer/Assoc Designer CHILDREN’S APPAREL SPORTSWEAR L.A. based (Ad #149) Prestigious children’s apparel firm Jersey + Rib Lycra seeks to fill several key positions: DESIGNER Fleece + Velour Position will be responsible for designing soft wovens, em- broidery and beading layouts. Will work with patternmakers, We are seeking a dynamic, Drake Fabrics Head Merchandiser talented design pro with 10 yrs. 718-389-8902 communicate with vendors, supervise design assistants, and Must have min 10 years exp with exp. to join our NY staff designing attend fittings / fabric & production meetings. Must have a a well-known firm. fashion design degree and 5 yrs. design experience. Excel- for a major moderate contempor- lent sketching ability, knowledge of beading / embroidery Head of Sales ary co. Must have background in techniques & garment construction knowledge are essential. Min 10 years exp in children’s updated knits and wovens for apparel. pants, skirts and jkts. Must be WOMEN’S JEANS CLOTHING able to shop stores for the WHOLESALE Fax to (323) 277-5426 Head Designer GREAT SELECTION GREAT PRICES! newest trends. Strong knowledge Yi Li Da, Inc. 246 5th Ave at 28th St Well-respected in the industry. of fabrics and an understanding Tel/Fax: 212-684-2906 Firm is located in Philadelphia of development time lines. area. Would consider Excellent salary and benefits. Customer Service NY applicants. Agcy. Fax resume to HR: Fast paced textile converter located in 212-827-0897 DESIGNERS Jersey City NJ needs experienced Please contact Jerry Molnar Major children’s outerwear customer service person. Knowledge Tel: 212-488-0050 company seeks Freelance of textile industry a plus. Responsibili- Fax 212-488-1123 ties include handling customer inqui- Designers w/minimum 3 yrs. ries on existing orders along w/ freight E-mail: [email protected] RELOCATION experience in related field. routing, and bills of lading. Qualified PAID TO FLORIDA Must be self motivated, have candidate will have excellent communi- *Sr. Tech. Lingerie/Foundation...... $75-85K Broadway & White St. fresh ideas with good color cation, organization and computer MARKETING *Spec Tech/Assoc Tech Lingerie...$35-65K skills. Please fax resume to: [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Loft/Showroom - Approx 2,200 sq. ft. sense and able to work in a Mickey @ (201)659-9719 Director of Marketing 3rd Floor walk-up - Live in/out - Hi ceil. fast paced team environ- Designer Jeans Company is seeking a $5,000 mo./Multiple-year lease Customer Service Mgr Marketing Director to oversee all Broker - 914-273-7000 ment. Knowledge of Illustra- aspects of marketing. Person must Sales/Prod’n Assist $$$$ Patterns/Samples/Beading tor and Photoshop a must. Fred Perry Limited have strong leadership, be aggressive Must Be Good with #s. Growth Oppty! Duplicates Cut & Sew Please fax resume attn. Looking for solution oriented account and experienced in the marketing in- Fashion Network 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Full Service - Small Production manager for servicing top level retail dustry. Must have 3-5 yrs experience, Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 SM (212) 997-7996 accounts. Must love retail, have great especially in the jeans industry. Posi- people and computer skills. Duties tion requires attention to detail, strong Showroom Asst include customer service, data entry, analytical and interpersonal skills, as Sportswear co seeks showroom asst for in-season sales, credit control, trade well as creativity. We offer great fast-paced, friendly environment. Re- Artist show participation. salary-benefits. Please send resume to: sponsible for maintaining showroom Fast paced NJ textile converter seek- GREAT OPPORTUNITY FOR GROWTH! Valmor Apparel Group, Inc. and all clerical duties. Must have ing experienced artist with excellent Fax resume to: 212-736-3737 814 Nafta Boulevard Suite B positive attitude, be hard working and photoshop skills. Create new designs, Laredo, Texas 78045 responsible. Excellent benefits. Fax and recolor existing designs according Fax: (956) 729-8573 resume to: Sharlet (212)391-8027 Contemporary Women’s Fashions to customer direction. Min of 4 years Design Assistant [email protected] Successful, branded, private retail chain experience working with photoshop in Est’d. Madison Ave. Lingerie Co. seeks for sale. Prime New York Metro locations. textile environment. This is not a an Assistant Designer in Daywear & Merchandising SOURCING MGR $110-150K Superior gross margins and sales PSF. graphics design position. Sleepwear. Only exp’d. candidates need Moderate Market, Knits/Wovens, Jeans, Proven track record. Exclusive design. Fax resume to 201-659-9719 apply. Fax resume to: 212-889-8411 Sr. Garment Merchandiser Washing Knldge. Trim Sourcing, Quota Strong mdsg & brand support. Excel- SHANGHAI / CHINA Duties, FOB/LDP’s, Far East, Africa. 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. lent expansion opportunity. Principals Design Assistant College degree or above, preferably in Must have Factory base in Rolodex. Beautifully Built Move In Condition only. Call Stephen Blum: 212-333-9659 Great opportunity for candidate with Jr. major textile, garment, or related field. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Assist Prod’n Coord Denim exp. & knowledge of CAD. Photo- At least 7 years working experience in garment merchandising. Good English Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Major sptswr importer seeks highly or- shop/Illustrator req’d. Fax/E-mail to SB: SOURCING/Production Mgr-5+ yr exp ganized and detail oriented indiv with 212-719-2653 / [email protected] communication & writing skills req’d. Must be familiar with all business proc- w/a Mens/Y/Mens or Boys importer/tvl 488 7th Ave (36th Street) outstanding communication and com- & buy finished garments. $100-125K. puter skills, to work in a high energy Design Assoc to $65K esses of garment exporting, and under- LIVE/WORK SHOWROOMS Girls 7-16 sportswear. Photo/Illus stand all classifications of knits and/or Les Richards Agcy - Call (212) 221-0870 1BR- 600 SF - from $1750 prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandarin is aplus. 1 year experience Employee Janet*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 wovens. E-mail resume to. or visit: Great location. Hi ceils. Wd flrs. Immed. [email protected] [email protected] 212-629-8694 M-F 10am-6pm NO FEE FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS friendly with full company benefits! SPEC TECHNICIAN WHOLESALE AND RETAIL Please fax resume to: www.frpservices.com Designer $100-$125K. Current exp. in updated FRP Services & Co. - SHANGHA Major childrenswear importer of girls DREAM WORK SPACES JM @ 212-944-2867 missy tops. Must hang w/ DCC, At Last, Style &boys infant 2/6X-7 knit and woven Designer, photographer, advertising. -RESUMES- &Co.Expindealing w/ and traveling to India+ sportswear seeks assistant spec tech 2 fabulous Chelsea lofts. 4,000 & 3,200 Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Europe. call 973-564-9236 Agcy. PATTERNMAKER designer. The right candidate must sf. Call Allan Gallaway GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Custom Women’s Clothing have minimum 2 years experience and (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa ASST PATTERNMAKER Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 Women’s high end designer apparel co Designer Asst/Production Asst Small Couture Operation knowledge of patternmaking and gar- fashionresumes.com Leading children’s wear importer Tel: 212-465-8451 / Fax: 212-465-8461 ment construction. Knowledge of Showroom / Office / Retail fashioncareercenter.com seeks assistant patternmaker with at least 3 years experience. Work on seeks a designer assistant/production Excel a must. We find you space-best deal-no fee Please fax resume with salary Sublet 525 7th/ready sportswear - samples to production. artist for girl’s design dept. Must have PATTERNMAKER-HEAD FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 Excellent work environment and pay. strong communication skill; well organized; requirements to 212-564-5201 Attn: DA Garment Center Real Estate Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews Branded & Private Label Mfr seeks or- Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Please send resume: energetic; able to handle multi-tasks Rush Service Available and a team player. Strong Illustrator ganized individual skilled in first patterns Camille Ashby, 76 Ninth Avenue from sketch to sample & then to produce PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. 16th Floor, New York, NY 10011 and Photoshop skill required. SPEC TECH Showrooms & Lofts (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Please fax resume to 212-564-5201 all production patterns/supervised sample Private label Sportswear Co. seeks an 212-645-8688 room. Must be a self starter, neat & or- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS www.resumesforfashion.com [email protected] Attn.: Linda Richman experienced individual to prepare and Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ganized and able to delegate work to write spec sheets and technical packs ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 meet deadlines. 5 years exp in run- for domestic and overseas production. Designer ning a pattern room required. Responsibilities include costing, spec’ing BOOKKEEPER F/C Better missy dress/sportswear comp. Please fax resume to: 212-354-1300 garments and completing design speci- seeks experienced individual. or email: [email protected] fication sheets. Must be skilled in gar- Midtown Manhattan accessories com- Fax 516-487-4556 pany. Experienced, full-time or 4 days. ment construction and sewing techniques. Benefits. Fax resume: 212-689-8839. PDS Gerber Patternmakers Computer literate, knowledge of Style DESIGNER - Jr. Jeans •JACKETS & SUITS $80-85K Master helpful. Import experience a plus. •BRIDAL EVENING DRESS $85-90K Fax resume to Arlene Kraus 718-937-5812 Seeking individual w/2-3 years experience or email:[email protected] and Photoshop/Illustrator proficiency. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Please Fax resume to: 212-869-5047 PLANNER TD-MANAGER Wovens/Jrs $120K DESIGNER Top-notch accessory co. seeks exp’d TD-BETTER WOVENS Jrs $75-85K Account Receivables Major Contemp. Designer seeks Planner to work on Wal-Mart account TD-JACKETS $75-85K Creative Designer. Min. 6 yrs. exp. in &otherstores. Minimum 5 yrs planning TD-JEANSWEAR $70K & Chargebacks/EDI Designing Collection, w/strong commu- TD-SWIMWEAR/Foundation $70K N.J. based junior apparel co. seeks or- exp, either out of accessories or apparel. nication skills w/orient. Salary $90,000 - $100,000. Call Carla: SPEC COORD/TECHS Better $37-57K ganized individual with knowledge of [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 chargebacks/receivables & MIS, EDI, TECHNICAL DESIGNER 212-947-3399 x12, Fax: 201-894-1186 or document processing with 2-3 yrs. exp. Min 3 yrs. exp. w/strong communica- email: [email protected] in dealing with major retail stores. Email tion & good knowledge of Garment KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS resume to: [email protected] BUYER construction work. Tech Design Fast paced Men’s Wear Mfr. seeks Chinese Family Dollar, a Fortune 500 retailer Fax resume w/cover letter to 212-398-9695 Production Assistant based in Charlotte, North Carolina, is Importer seeks production asst with bilingual individual w/excellent communi- Admin. Assistant one of the fastest growing discount min 3 years experience. Should be cation &follow up skills, full knowledge Receptionist / Order Entry / Billing chains in the United States. We have DESIGNER organized, detail oriented and able to of garment construction, sketching, spec Seeking upbeat individual for general more than 5,300 stores in 44 states N.Y.C. Co. seeks a Designer to help prepare spec sheets, develop purchase sheets & grading to create Tech Packs. 64th on Lex / Retail Store office duties in a fast paced Leg Wear from Maine to Arizona. During the last assemble & manage a team for the orders, track/follow up production Must be proficient in Photoshop & Illustra- tor. Pattern making skill a plus. Salary Prime location. Ground floor, retail &Underwear Co. Pleasant environment five years we have added over 2,000 launching of a new Young Designer schedules and communicate with over- in small, growing business. Must have new stores. Contemporary Sportswear label. Must seas office via fax and e-mail. MS commensurate with experience. Please basement & 2nd floor. 3 levels can be Fax resume to: 212-268-9404 divided. Great for high-end boutique use . Word & Excel exp. Growth opportunity. The merchandising concept that be organized with 5 years exp. in related Word & Excel knowledge a must. Call 917-476-7281 Please Fax resume to: 212-244-5535 drives this growth offers customers market, and a take-charge personality. Technical garment knowledge a plus. good values in low cost, basic merchan- Resourceful with fabric/trim, P.V. exp., Fax resume to: 212-465-1257 Technical Design Asst Admin Assist Try Something New! dise for family and home needs. relationships w/European mills and their U.S. agents a must. We offer a Established outerwear mfr seeks organ- Wall Street Area Legal Field Co has Our explosive growth has led us in PRODUCTION ASSIST Immed Need for Admin Asst for Phones, competitive salary and comprehensive ized design assistant familiar with search of another Buyer for our soft- benefits. E-mail resume/salary require- BI-LINGUAL CHINESE. $55-60K tech packs & design sheets. Must be MS Word & General Office Respon. lines division. This position will be in [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Call: 212-233-5073 or 212-233-5066 ments to: [email protected] computer literate. Fax resume to: our Charlotte headquarters. Michong, Design Dept 212-643-3465 A minimum of five years buying expe- Production Supervisor $85-90K Admin Since 1967 DESIGNERS CMT Exp. Central America Supervise 5. rience, as well as specific product •Sr. Designer Sweaters. Pvt Label....$100K W-I-N-S-T-O-N knowledge in ladies and juniors tops Allen Platt *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 TRAFFIC COORD $47K •Outerwear. Know Optic Sketches.....$60K [email protected] lines is required. The successful candi- •Asst Dsgnr Contemp Pvt Label....$40-55K Moderate to Better Woven Mfr APPAREL STAFFING date must be customer-focused and [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGN*SALES*MERCH have strong product development and QC Inspector/Production ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION creativity skills. Established apparel Co. seeks responsi- Writer PRODUCTIONS (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Designer All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Please apply on-line at ble individual for phases of garment Craft Instructional Writer Call Sherry 212-719-0622. www.familydollar.com or E-mail our (Sweaters/Wovens) inspection through to writing QC Pattern Company seeks instructional Merchandising Recruiter at Leading well established domestic reports. Must have excellent oral, writer to provide home sewer with clear Alterations/Bridal Gown Sales written and computer skills, work in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Acquire clients as a P/T Salesperson & [email protected]. manufacturer and importer seeks instructions to accompany our technical Please, no third party agencies. exp’d Designer for sweaters, knits & Ridgefield, NJ warehouse and NYC illustrations for craft, costumes and do alterations from home. $14/hour + showroom. Friendly environment/ PRODUCTIONS commission + your alteration fees. Fluent &wovens. Must be exp’d in all phases home dec patterns. Candidate must Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine of mfg from start to finished product. benefits. Fax resume 212-768-7773, have related education, computer back- in English and outgoing personality. E-mail [email protected] fast work. 212-869-2699. Please Fax all resumes to: 212-367-9097 Fax resume: 718-369-0516 ground and extensive knowledge of COUTURE 1st - PROD’N craft, costume and home dec industry. Benefits. Send Resume to: Simplicity APPAREL JOBS PATTERNMAKERS FASHION CAREERS RECEPTIONIST •RTW Dress/Jkts/Leath $125-175K In Design, Tech Design & Production Pattern Co., 2 Park Avenue, 12th Fl, NY, PATTERN/SAMPLES 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs Receptionist for Madison Avenue NY 10016, Attn: Human Resources or 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr •Bridal Evening Dresses $130K See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com Couture Boutique. Full or Part Time. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 email [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Fax Resume to: 212-583-1715 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 15 WWW.WWD.COM Badgley Mischka Future on Hold Continued from page one Since 2001, Escada has cut about 20 per- on Monday that “an agreement has not been cent of its global staff and has continued with finalized thus far and funding is therefore not massive cost-cutting this year, while striving available for a spring-summer collection.” to boost sales with new licenses and restyled That Badgley Mischka — one of the star la- collections. Its efforts resulted in some posi- bels of the New York fashion scene — could tive news, in that its most recent quarterly not attract another backer in that time has report showed an after-tax profit of about confounded many of the executives involved $123,000, compared with a $5 million loss the in its sale, considering the consistently strong previous year. showings by the designers in editorial reviews Badgley Mischka became a part of the and in celebrity press clippings. But the high Escada picture during a much different time cost of producing the designers’ elaborately for the company. During the height of the ap- embroidered and beaded evening gowns and peal to affluent women of brightly colored promoting a designer evening collection that suits with angular shoulders, Badgley is not yet supported by a high-volume licens- Mischka represented a sophisticated coun- ing business has been cited as a factor in their terpoint for evening to Escada’s look for day. lack of aggressive suitors. Badgley and Mischka, natives of Illinois The designers allocate a budget in the and Wisconsin, respectively, met as students neighborhood of $500,000 to produce their at Parsons School of Design in New York and seasonal runway shows, which Escada was no started their joint label in 1988 after Badgley longer willing to support in the face of its own had worked for Jackie Rogers and Donna cost-cutting measures. Karan, and Mischka for WilliWear. They ini- Badgley and Mischka, both 43, were not tially financed their own collection with available for comment on Monday, and offi- money from their families, but sold a majori- cials at Escada, which owns an estimated 80 ty interest to Escada USA in 1992. percent of the business, deferred questions Although their collections often harken beyond the designers’ statement for the time back to a more sophisticated era of evening- being. The design duo, who are co-presidents wear, the gentlemanly designers have main- of B.E.M. Enterprise Ltd., will continue to tained a modern celebrity following that has seek a new financial partner for the company. ranged from memorable red-carpet plugs by Badgley Mischka, with annual retail sales Winona Ryder, and Teri Hatcher estimated around $40 million, is expected to in their early days to more recent appearances continue with the production and deliveries on “Sex and the City,” which featured the mar- of its fall collection, and will support sales riage of one character in a Badgley Mischka with personal appearances and public rela- Mark Badgley and James Mischka and a look from their fall collection in production. gown. They also scored Beyoncé as a front-row tions, according to the statement. However, guest at their February show, even if she gen- several positions are expected to be eliminated at the company, which has a staff of erated more press by being tardy and holding up the start. more than 60 at its offices at 525 Seventh Avenue, and additional cost-cutting meas- Although the 16-year-old label has not reached the point that it has shown a profit, ures will be taken in its operations as the division winds down. its potential in licensing has only recently been tapped, with a new fur collection with Plagued by declining sales and disjointed product that followed an expensive at- BC International and possible deals for lingerie, footwear and eyewear. Last month tempt to modernize the company’s image three years ago with a new designer and a the duo said they were in talks with a fragrance company about launching their first global store overhaul, Escada AG, based in Aschheim, Germany, announced last year women’s scent. it would restructure again to focus on the development of its core Escada labels and The company opened its first store on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles in 2000, and divest its other brands, which include its holdings in Badgley Mischka, as well as more recently has continued to expand with a separates group launched for Saks European labels Louis Féraud and Apriori. Fifth Avenue and special-order businesses.

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