BRAVO RENEWS AT BURBERRY/2 TRAUB’S NEXT ACT/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Butter Up NEW YORK — Goddesses do walk among us, and they’re wearing long, romantic gowns in great swathes of silk. This season, buttery hues with understated details are key. Here, Monique Lhuillier’s beaded silk satin look. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Badgley Mischka to Skip THERINE NICHOLS; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI THERINE NICHOLS; STYLED BY Spring Fashion Season Amid Search for Backer By Eric Wilson RICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: KA ASSISTANT: RICOMI; FASHION NEW YORK — With no viable backers stepping forward to rescue Badgley Mischka, the designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka said Monday they Y MELLUSO/WARREN T Y MELLUSO/WARREN will not produce a spring collection. Badgley Mischka has been majority owned by Escada (USA) Inc. since 1992, but the designer eveningwear brand was put on the block last October as part of Escada’s ongoing global restructuring. T ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP B BY T ARTISTS Although a number of companies have held discussions with the designers and Escada executives over the last several months, they jointly said in a statement See Badgley, Page15 A H./SUPREME; HAIR BY LAURA NAKAMOTO A LAURA A H./SUPREME; HAIR BY PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: SAR KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 20, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Bravo Extends Burberry Contract Ready-to-Wear/Textiles GENERAL By Samantha Conti “It’s positive news. Under her constant-currency basis to $206.8 With no viable backers stepping forward to rescue their firm, designers reign…the group has been turned million (110.6 million pounds). Mark Badgley and James Mischka said they will not produce a spring line. LONDON — Burberry’s chief ex- into a global luxury brand.” European companies often re- 1 ecutive officer Rose Marie Bravo, “The board is delighted that port results in constant-currency Burberry ceo Rose Marie Bravo, the driving force behind the revival of the the driving force behind the ren- Rose Marie has extended her terms, as a way of showing how 2 British luxury label, agreed to extend her contract another year to July 2006. aissance at the British luxury contract,” said John Peace, chair- high growth would have been Marvin Traub is bringing the Jacques Dessange brand to the U.S. and label, agreed to extend her con- man of Burberry, in a statement. without the negative impact of tract another year to July 2006 as “Under her leadership, Burberry fluctuating foreign exchange 3 managing North American distribution of Pout cosmetics. the company reported that first- has been transformed into an in- rates. The Burberry statement EYE: The Baron Alexis de Rede, the social grandee known for his opulent balls, quarter sales climbed 6 percent ternational luxury brand, and the did not release any profit figures 4 fastidious manners and grand tastes, died in Paris on July 9. He was 82. to $194 million (103.7 million business has achieved great suc- for the period. pounds) from $177 million (97.4 cess with respect to revenues and “The financial year is off to a Even for evening, designers are harnessing the power of the sun in flowing million pounds). profitability.” good start,” said Bravo. “In this 6 goddess looks that up the wattage in a cheerful palette of yellows. “I love what I’m doing,” Bravo Bravo scored a 100 percent quarter, we achieved strong sell- told WWD. “And I’m very stimu- bonus for her performance in the through of remaining spring- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 lated by my team — they are like 2003-04 fiscal year, when profits summer merchandise, and ex- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is a family to me. And there is so soared 75.3 percent to $171.1 mil- perienced an encouraging ini- [email protected], using the individual’s name. much more to do. You name it, we lion (91.5 million pounds), thanks tial consumer response to our WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 can do better. We can have higher in part to huge gains. Turnover autumn-winter collections.” FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 13. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional standards.” rose 13.8 percent to $1.26 billion In the three months ended issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three Bravo stepped in as ceo in (675.8 million pounds). June 30, retail sales, which ac- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; 1997, when the firm was known In exchange for hitting Bur- counted for 54 percent of total Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, only for its traditional trenchcoats berry’s internal sales and profit revenue in the quarter, rose 7 per- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- and check pattern, and turned it targets, Bravo received $1,568,000 cent to $104 million (55.6 million President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at into a major global luxury brand. — the equivalent of her base pounds) from $97.4 million (52.1 additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. She will be able to renew her con- salary — as a reward, according million pounds). POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. tract on an annual basis, a Bur- to the company’s latest annual re- On a constant-currency basis, FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR berry spokeswoman said. port, issued last month. sales rose 15 percent to $112 mil- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “I think it’s a great relief to the Shareholders will be asked to lion (59.9 million pounds), despite subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production markets that she’s staying,” said approve that bonus and other de- difficult comparisons with the correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Melanie Flouquet, equities analyst tails regarding the company dur- corresponding period last year. magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully at J.P. Morgan in London. “People ing the annual general share- Newly opened stores and a screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. were a bit nervous that she was holders’ meeting, scheduled for renewed vigor from markets WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED going to leave. She is so closely today in London. such as continental Europe, MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART associated with the brand.” Meanwhile, Burberry said in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Rhys Williams, equities ana- its statement Monday that first- also drove sales in the quarter. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE lyst at Seymour Pierce, agreed: quarter sales rose 14 percent on a Continued on page 10 ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Bloomingdale’s Bows Speedo Olympic Suits In Brief ● NEW AT ESPRIT: Esprit Holdings Ltd. has named Thomas By Emily Holt Grote, former global head of wholesale operations, to be joint global chief operating officer of the Esprit Brands along with NEW YORK — Speedo, which Jerome Griffith, who had been an executive director and global has sponsored the U.S. swim head of retail operations. Both posts are new. Based in team since 1984, showcased its Düsseldorf, Germany, Grote and Griffith will jointly take on major new Fastskin FS II U.S. Olympic operational responsibilities for the Esprit brand, including prod- team uniforms at the Blooming- uct development, image, logistics and wholesale and retail distri- dale’s flagship here Monday. bution. They will report to Heinz Krogner, chief executive officer Former Olympians and gold- and chief operating officer of Esprit Holdings Ltd.