like the people of Hilo, they are survivors who refuse to give Hilo Town in to forces of both natural and commercial. Part 1: A Jewel on the Island In their visit to East Hawaii, many people pass by the Downtown Hilo is a unique shopping district in a unique city. downtown shopping district, by chance or by choice. This is a The area bordering along the Wailuku River has long been shame, for they are missing a true jewel of Hawaii. Inside the recorded as a center for commercial activity. William Ellis buildings one can find treasures of art, collectibles, fashion reports in his 1827 article, A Narrative of a Tour Through and food. They will find people who have time to talk story, Hawaii, or Owyhee that natives from Puna, Kau and the south share their wisdom and offer the aloha spirit. Downtown Hilo point of the island, brought tapa cloth and quantities of dried Town is alive with personality. If you look closely you can see salt fish to trade. The people of Hilo, Hamakua and points it in the architecture of memories past. If you venture indoors north brought hogs, tobacco, tapa, pandanus mats and taro. you will find it in the people you meet. Join me on a walking From one side of the river bank to the other, traders shouted at tour of my home town. each other, arranging the preliminaries of their bargains. When a price was decided the articles were brought down to the big rock in the middle of the stream where the trade was completed. With the arrival of the missionaries to Hilo in 1824 came the gradual influence of western trade practices of the time. When the first frame buildings were erected the center of activity was fixed by the location of the church and minister's home, just a short distance from the river bank. The arrival of the Lyman (1932) and Coan missionary families brought attempts to model Hilo with a Puritan New England influence. The great revival from 1837 to c. 1840 quickly converted the population, extending so far as to convert the Captains and seamen of visiting whaling ships. There was no turning back to the days of old Hawaii. The mission was the biggest event in the lives of the people. In Part 2: Kamehameha Avenue his later years Coan remarked how impossible it was to Our tour begins at the Hilo Downtown Improvement understand how civilization coming to native people can Association at 252 Kamehameha Avenue. Here you can pick change their whole way of life, make them lose their spirit, up a free walking tour of historic Hilo map, ask questions and and change their resistance to disease. Measles was introduced obtain information about special events. We turn left as we by the Independence in 1848, venereal disease had been leave the building and begin our tour. introduced by Cook's time. In 1835 smallpox struck followed 224 Kamehameha - Wilson's by the Bay by leprosy and plague. The culture of old Hawaii was Surf's up with Hawaii style clothing, hats, snacks and destroyed, replaced with a culture in which others would live. refreshments. The Ice Shave here is fantastic, the syrup home Sugar took over between 1850 and 1900, bringing foreigners made. of many nationalities. The whaling ships brought new sources 216 Kamehameha - Pink Elephant of commerce to Hilo. Between 1853 and 1854 produce was This is the first of the thrift and curio shops on our tour. The supplied to eighty ships. Agriculture activity centered around store is maintained by the Hilo Woman's Club. The appeal of a the needs of the ships. Around 1868-69 the whaling fleet left thrift shop is that you'll never know just what you'll find, the town and Hilo moved into a great commercial depression, browsing is fun and the bargains worthwhile. At the Pink following the years of great commercial enterprise. Hilo had Elephant you'll find clothing, books, records, craft supplies depended on trade with the sea, there were no back roads or and more. The friendly staff always has time to stop and talk routes to trade elsewhere on land. The economy fell flat. If this story. was not bad enough tidal waves hit Hilo in August of 1868 206 Kamehameha - Big Island Woodworks Gallery and then again in May of 1877. A family tradition and business for more than 20 years offers Sugar had a poor start in Hilo, but once big business took over one of the finest collections of authentic Hawaiian wood craft using heavy fertilization, irrigation, improved cane and in the Islands. Koa and other natural woods are fashioned into agricultural techniques introduced by the Scotch and English Hawaiian sailing vessels make them truly a work of art. Also managers the industry took off. Hilo became a sugar boom available are hand crafted shirts and gift articles. town. Hilo was the center of government activity and the retail 202 Kamehameha - Hawaii Island Chamber of Commerce and service center for the lives of the workers and families of You'll have your choice from a large collection of brochures the surrounding plantations. and pamphlets promoting business on the island. The town grew up and depended upon the sugar trade. During 194 Kamehameha - Caravan Town the past decade the sugar industry diminished and has at last Oriental curios, trinkets and toys fill this store from floor to disappeared. Like the end of the sea trade in the last century ceiling. Children, in particular will be fascinated by the Hilo is feeling the effects of an economy in trouble. collection of toys and playthings. A great variety of wind The buildings of downtown Hilo Town carry the legacy as the chimes gift items and ornaments. commerce center that sugar built. Despite tsunami, threats of 188 Kamehameha - Sally Ann Shop lava flow, the end of the sugar industry and the resulting The Salvation Army thrift shop is large both in floor space and economic consequences these buildings remain. They are a lot inventory. Check the aloha wear, shirts and dresses. During my visit this afternoon I bought two funky 1960s era aloha Building in 1910 with interior koa walls and ohia floors the shirts for 75 cents each. A bargain hard to match anywhere! building is an example of the local adaptation of the local Take a moment to admire the window, the displays are always Renaissance Revival style, even though renovations have been interesting. The building originally housed the Hilo Dry done the building is still very much in its original state. Along Goods, the business formed in 1915 Lau Fai and associates the curb of Kamehameha Avenue you may notice two-inch who came from Canton, China. Hilo Dry Goods occupied this rings spaced at intervals. Before automobiles came to Hilo, building at about 1930. A thriving business for many years the these were used to tie up horses. store closed it's doors in 1996. 174 Kamehameha - Kress Building Restoration was completed in 1995 and inside you'll find tributes to the volcano and tsunami and if you're lucky Bob Chow, manager of the building. Bob was a policeman during the tsunami years and has some fascinating stories to share of the days way back when. If we're lucky Bob will be around and we can grab a coffee or ice cream from the on site Tropical Dreams and sit and talk story. You'll learn more about the history of Hilo town than you ever could from a history book. Bob has a wonderful manner in sharing the history, you can almost see the events unfold before you. The architecture of the building (1932) is Art -Deco, notice the The corner of Kamehameha and Waianuenue was the floral designs, batwing shapes and terra cotta front. The old northeast corner of Hilo's commercial and government center fashioned soda fountain is reminiscent of the era. The Kress is for more than one hundred years. Look towards the ocean, often the home base for special events and craft fairs. Friday between 1863 and 1890 wharves were built at the foot of night you will be able to catch the local talent from 6:30 - 9:30 Waianuenue transporting passengers and freight between the p.m. when the Kress hosts a talent night. wharf and steamers anchored in Hilo Bay. The area was also 164 Kamehameha - Hana Hou the site of the first post office and depot of the Hawaii Browse the fine arts and fashions for a special gift to share Consolidated Railway. The railroad connected with a loved one. Handcrafted clothing, shopping bags and the Hamakua Coast to Hilo. At the turn of the century people, other art pieces are bought and sold by consignment. The and sugar cane were transported from the fields, to the mill classic aloha shirts are a treasure. and on to Hilo for shipping. On April 1, 1946 a tsunami hit 160 Kamehameha - Basically Books Hilo and the railroad, putting it out of business. Sugar trucks This is your one stop for Hawaiian specialty books, videos, took over the transport and a shoreline highway was built maps, posters and stationary. Great bargains for leisure using part of the old railway right of way. reading can be found in the used book section. This is always Continuing up Waianuenue notice the number of buildings an interesting shop to browse. Be sure to ask for your free which stand vacant as if they are waiting for better days. They copy of the 31 flavors of Hilo, Hawaii. The brochure are in fact, the shut down of the sugar industry and opening of spotlights some great Hilo destination spots. a modern mall have taken their toll on some of the businesses 130 Kamehameha - First Hawaiian Bank Building downtown. As I mentioned before, Hilo is for survivors and Crossing Kalakaua and on the corner is the First Hawaiian better days will come again. Change has been difficult for Bank Building. Built in 1930 by the famous Hawaii architect Hilo, however, I believe change will bring life back to C.W. Dickey the concrete building successfully survived both downtown and the people who work hard to keep it alive. the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis. New home of the tsunami 38 Waianuenue - It's Deja Vu museum this is a great stop to learn about the effect on the This resale boutique offers bargains in fine fashions, jewelry community from volcano and tsunami. and accessories. 122 Kamehameha - Sig Zane Designs 54 Waianuenue - Aloha Wired and Wireless Fine quality aloha wear and gifts are available. This telecommunications business offers pagers, cell phones, 110 Kamehameha - Bob's Jewelers home and business phones, and all the accessories related. Hawaiian charms and bracelets, diamonds, jades, pearls clocks There are two stops on the opposite side of Waianeunue that and watches are for sale along with Hawaiian heirloom you shouldn't miss: jewelry. 21 Waianuenue - Hilo Seeds & Snack 106 Kamehameha - Rift Zone This tiny shop is interesting because of the many jars of A gallery of fine arts with ceramics by artist Robert Joiner, preserved sweets and candy. Stop in and purchase a grab bag jewelry, paintings, wood, glass and bronze sculptures. of the treats. Corner of Kamehameha and Waianuenue - Cronie's 35 Waianuenue - Etsko I offer the best of luck to the newest business to the area. Specializing in fine quality collectables, accessories, jewelry, Cronie's is a recently renovated nightspot offering tropical and books. You'll find many interesting items. Take your time refreshments, beer and ale. I stopped by Saturday evening and browsing while you sip gourmet coffee from the bar. enjoyed the comfortable surroundings. Crossing Keawe and on the corner renovation and restoration 76 Kamehameha - Koehnen's Building of this renaissance revival style building has recently been Crossing Waianuenue Koehnens's Interiors sits on the corner. completed. Notice the fine wrought iron work by local artist Fine furnishings, accessories and gifts of china and silver Paul Saviskas. Originally the First Trust Building it is now inhabit the large showroom. Originally built as the Hackfield known as the Toyama Building. Among the first fireproof buildings in Hilo, it was built in 1908 using steel beams and today you're sure to burn those extra calories! Insiders tip: reinforced concrete. there is a bank machine across the street at the Bank of Turning right we continue two blocks down Keawe to the Hawaii. arched bridge. From the bridge we can have a good look at the 126 Keawe - Big Island Book and Literature Wailuku River. Looking upriver, notice the large oblong rock The offerings of educational books and materials are amazing, in the middle of the stream. Known as the "Canoe of Maui," a school teacher's dream come true. Peggy Ross will be happy legend relates that the demi-god Maui was at to help you out although it is fun to browse through the Mount Haleakala on the Island of Maui when, noticing that a resources which are conveniently arranged by subject matter. protective cloud that he had left for his mother, the Old Police Station and Hawaiian Telephone goddess Hina , had taken a strange shape, he sensed she was in Building Crossing Kalakaua and turning right we arrive at two danger. With two mighty strokes he had spanned the channel significant buildings. The Hawaiian Telephone Company only to have his magic canoe beached at the mouth of the Building was completed in 1929. Another example by C.W. Wailuku River. Hina was indeed in danger, she had been Dickey the building combines the influences of European, trapped in a cave under Rainbow Falls, located upriver, Oriental and Polynesian influences. Next door is the former because her rebuffed suitor, Kuna Mo'o had dammed the river district courthouse and police station. The architectural style below the falls, the water backing up into Hina's cave. With a resembles a Hawaiian grass house of the middle 1800's with single stroke of his magic club Maui broke the dam and the it's higher doors, windows and verandahs. The building is now waters went rushing down the river. home the East Hawaii Cultural Center. During Kamehameha's days a toll was to be paid by all who Niolopa At the top of Kalakaua is the former site of summer would cross the river by way of the stone, later on this was the royalty from 1852 to 1884. King David Kalakaua spent much location where trade occurred during the markets and fairs. In time here. In 1908 the property was developed into the Hilo the days before there were bridges to safely cross the Wailuku Hotel. The hotel went through various stages of renovation many lives were lost during periods of heavy rain when the over the years. It now stands empty, another reminder of the river rushed down from the mountain. Wailuku literally means hard times which has touched the local economy. "destroying water." We'll retrace our steps back down Kalakaua and back to At the corner of Keawe and Wailuku Drive is the building Keawe. called Kulana Na'auoa, which means "highest standard." Built 140 Keawe & 148 Keawe - Kristina Lileeng Unique in 1913 in the Renaissance Revival style it was the location of Clothing / Joanne's the first public library. In 1921 the annex was added to the rear At Kristina's you'll find fine clothing and evening wear. and in 1929 the new front wing was added. The library has Joanne offers a variety of casual wear. since expanded to a new location on Waianuenue. Kulana At the corner of Keawe and Haili make a right turn for a little Na'auoa has since housed a number of government offices. side trip. Part 4: Federal Building and Kalakaua Park 106 Haili - Still Life Books Post Office and Federal Building Still Life Books offers second hand books in great condition. Returning to the Toyama Building we turn right at There is a wide variety of subjects, including Hawaiiana, Waianuenue and crossing Kekoulike we arrive at the Federal travel, gardening, and religion. Building and Post Office. An example of neo-classical style 110 Haili - Touched By Angels with a Spanish mission influence. The building was Angels are the theme of this fine collectable shop, you'll also constructed in two stages, the original which housed the post find Disney Beanies, chimes, dream catchers and other items office was completed in 1910, the two wings were added in to add to your collection. 1936. 132 Haili - Barber Shop Kalakaua Park Okay the secret is out...this is where you'll find my favorite Across the street is Kalakaua Park. The huge banyan trees barber. Not only does she deliver with great style at a very offer shade and rest during the day, in the evenings during reasonable cost but she is a terrific story teller. You'll have to summer Shakespeare plays are performed. A statue of the stop by early in the day as the shop is only open between the Merrie Monarch, King Kalakaua sites in the park a reminder hours of 8 and 10 a.m. of the days when the king would visit Hilo. It is believed that Haili at corner of Kinoole - Big Island Academy of some of the trees in the park were planted between 1874 and Massage 1891 by the king. Leaving the park we return down I know, it's been a long walk and you're probably feeling a Waianuenue and back to Keawe, and then turn right. little bit tired by now. Treat yourself to a massage at the walk- Part 5: Keawe/Kalakaua/Haili in clinic. You'll feel refreshed in no time! 94 Keawe - KD's Gifts & Crafts Cross Haili and continue back down the street towards Keawe. On this cozy corner you'll find a delightful shop. Many gifts 250 Keawe - Hawaii Visitors Bureau for kids' (and kids' at heart), including Beanie Babies, angels, At the corner of Keawe and Haili is the Hawaii Visitors stickers, and rubber stamps. The clothing is unique and Bureau. A collection of maps, guides and brochures are handcrafted. The tiny keiki kimono's and aloha wear are available for free. The friendly staff will answer your adorable. questions and make sure you have the literature you need. 106 Keawe - Bears 235 Keawe - Pescatore The people's choice for the best cappuccino and espresso this Crossing Keawe is the Pescatore where Italian cuisine is is an ideal opportunity to have lunch and take a break. Bear's available for lunch (11 - 2) and dinner (5:30 -10). The menu offers great sandwiches, for a real treat try some waffles with includes such dishes as antipasti, zuppe and insalata. fresh fruit. You won't be disappointed. With all the walking 249 Keawe - Sushi Deli 207 Kilauea - Biker Store This recent addition to the downtown community offers a Harley parts, new and used, accessories and tee shirts. quick snack of sushi. 223A Kilauea - Bytes and Bites 255 Keawe - Magazines Plus An opportunity to take a break, have a coffee juice, soft drink A variety of magazines and newspapers such as the New York and snack while you surf the Net and check your Email. The Times, San Francisco Examiner and Los Angeles Times are friendly staff and ambience will make you feel at home. available. We'll retrace our steps, cross Mamo Street and turn right on 271 Keawe - Stella's Place the final leg of our tour. Another great thrift shop to hunt for bargains and collectables. Part 7: Mamo Street and Kamehameha Avenue Stella also often has fresh offerings of fruit from the garden. 100 Mamo - Mamo Street Art and Used Books 276 Keawe (across the street) - Mauna Kea Galleries This combination used book store / art gallery features a Specializing in vintage Hawaiiana for collectors, the gallery variety of book subject titles on one side and profiles the buys and sells rare items from the islands. original work of local artists on the other. 282 Keawe - Surplus 94 Mamo - Flip Side Too Cocktail Lounge Next door the the gallery this surplus store has many great Take a peak inside, it's like looking into a movie set of Hawaii items for camping, hiking and outdoor sports. The real bargain Five-O or a B-grade detective movie. is the selection of tee shirts, all to be had at very reasonable 84 Mamo - Jimmy's Archery prices. What is that creature in the window? Part bird, reptile and Furneaux Lane fish? You may notice this is the first non-Hawaiian street name we Mamo at Kamehameha - Farmer's Market have come across. There was actually a renaming of the streets Saturday's and Wednesday's are market days wish fresh of the downtown area. An ordinance passed on May 5,1916 produce, fish, baked goods, flowers and plants for sale by changed the then non-Hawaiian street names to their present local vendors. Across Kamehameha notice the Mo'oheau Park. names. For example Kamehameha was originally Front Street The Hilo County Band performs free concerts once a month in and Keawe was originally Bridge Street. Why Furneaux Lane the bandstand. Prior to the 1946 tidal wave there were was does not bear a Hawaiian name I do not know. The lane buildings on both sides of Kamehameha. The buildings we was named for Charles Furneaux, prominent during the turn of will visit next were built in the early 1900's and survivors of the century as an artist and photographer. the great tsunami. 325 Keawe - Panda Imports 382 Kamehameha - Nautilus Dive Center, Inc. The sign outside reads gifts, gadgets and goodies, which Taking a little detour, we cross Mamo and stroll for a half describes the shop very well. More trinkets and gifts as well as block to the Nautilus Dive Center. A great place to plan ocean kitchen accessories. activities, the friendly staff will outfit you for a day on the Mamo Street - Mamo Market water. The rates are great and a trip to the island isn't complete Crossing Mamo Street you will notice that Keawe ends and without exploring the marine life of the nearby beaches or Kilauea Avenue begins. In the yellow tent, to our right is a cruising the bay in a kayak. busy market place on Saturday's. Fresh fruits, vegetables and 336 Kamehameha - Reuben's Mexican Food tropical flowers are for sale by vendors, often local bands and Turn left at Kamehameha and you'll find the best margaritas in choirs will provide free entertainment. town accompany such dished as crab enchiladas and chicken Part 6: Kilauea Avenue flautas. At Mamo, Keawe changes in to Kilauea Avenue, continue 330 Kamehameha - Universal Jewelers along Kilauea for about one-half block. The place to stop by if you are looking for Hawaiian jewelry 179 Kilauea - Plantation Memories and gemstone rings. This shop is incredible. Be prepared to browse. Every inch of 308 Kamehameha - Cafe Pesto space is occupied with vintage bottles, toys, Hawaiiana and Fine dining featuring fresh island fish, organic salads, pastas collectables. If you have a special collection you're sure to find and pizza. something to add to it in this store! S. Hata Building 185 Kilauea - Vintage Hawaiian Clothing Another building in the tradition of renaissance revival, the Browse through the clothing in this store and you're likely to building was built by the Hata family in 1912. During WWII it find something unique. Vintage aloha wear is quite was confiscated by the government, and then bought back fashionable in the islands and you're sure to find something at after the war for $100,000. Renovated in 1991 it now houses a a fraction of what you'd pay in the big city. small businesses and offices. Inside you'll find Dreams of 187 Kilauea - Kilauea Preserve Center Paradise which specializes in art and gifts from the islands, Dried and preserved fruits, snacks and nuts can be bought by Gentlemen's Hour Barber Shop, Canoe's Cafe, a sandwich and the packet or from the big jars. salad bar, the Kipuka Smoke Shop, O'Keefe and Son Bakers 191 Kilauea - Don's Coins and Collectables and Thundering Seas Jewelers. Coins, gold, jewelry and collectables are bought, sold and 300 Kamehameha - Big Island Estate Jewelry traded. Fine vintage furniture, art and jewelry. In a section at the back 199 Kilauea - Helen's Fabric Shoppe there are also musical instruments, electronics and video Helen has a nice collection of prints with an island theme, and games for sale. the notions you'll need to create your own version of aloha 292 Kamehameha - Abundant Life Natural Foods wear. This natural food and deli offers organic foods, books, health and specialty items at reasonable prices. 290 Kamehameha - Spirit Song 266 Kamehameha - Dragon Mama Unique gifts, cards and books in the new age tradition. Need Need a good night's sleep? Dragon Mama offers futons an a fairy dust? You can get it here! variety of bedding specialties including meditation pillows, 284 Kamehameha - Hawaiian Arts eye pillows and neck pillows. All are constructed from organic An assortment of tee shirts in varying styles and sizes are the cotton, wool, kapoc and buckwheat hulls, and hemp products. mainstay of this store, although there are usually used surf 262 Kamehameha - Big Isle Collectables boards available as well. Buying, selling and trading coins, stamps and a variety of 14 Furneaux - Rock Island Galleries/Da Bike Shop small collectables. Another shop where the inventory is Cross Furneaux Lane and turn left for a little shop off the always changing with interesting and rare finds. beaten track. A great find for rock hounds and collectors of 256 Kamehameha - The Most Irresistible Shop in Hawaii / minerals and related gift items. At Da Bike Shop you can The Fireplace Center arrange a rental for another day of exploring Hilo on Irresistible and interesting! Tee shirts, clothing, stationary, alternative wheels. Hawaiiana, jewelry, books, educational toys and gifts. Many 11 Furneaux - Rainbow Tattoo items are hand made and the store carries the Kamehameha Want an everlasting memento of your visit to Hilo. Steve, at Garment line of aloha shirts. Rainbow Tattoo will fill your request. A man of many artistic Fireplaces in Hawaii? Jeffrey Mermel has been supplying talents he designs web pages and is webmaster for Hilo.org. homes with warmth since 1979. The evenings and mornings can get quite cool in the higher elevations and in communities such as Volcano. What could be better than cuddling with a loved one in front of a fireplace? If you want to bring home a very unique reminder of the islands, I'd say that fireplace accessories would fit the bill! As we arrive back at the Downtown Improvement Association we have come full circle and our tour comes to an end. It has been a full day and we still haven't experienced all of Hilo Town. Perhaps you'll join me on another tour in the future? Better still, come to Hilo and experience the tour first-hand. Hilo never disappoints.