Urban Traveler and Just Like That, Resort Is Here

PLUS: Living in Hope: A CANNES OPENER Publishers wait Getting ready for all the action on the for iPad riches Croisette around the Cannes Film Festival. to roll in. STYLE, PAGE 9 STYLE, PAGE 9

WWDWEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 FLASH SITES BOOM Vente-Privée Said Set To Unveil U.S. Deal could be American Express. Offi cials By VICKI M. YOUNG at American Express could not be reached for comment by press time. THE COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE But the financial and credit card for the fl ash sale concept is getting giant is scheduled to make an an- more crowded every day. nouncement on Thursday afternoon Paris-based Vente-Privée.com, that it said is expected to “impact the the largest fl ash sale company in the fashion industry.” world, is expected on Thursday to un- Several speakers are set to par- veil a partnership with a U.S.-based take in the American Express an- fi rm, likely serving as its entrée into nouncement, which is expected at the American market. Officials at around 1:30 p.m. at Eleven Madison Vente- Privée declined to provide de- Park Restaurant in Manhattan, tails, but Jacques-Antoine Granjon, but the name of only one has been the site’s chief executive officer released. That individual is Dan and co-founder, will be in New York Schulman, president of Enterprise Thursday for the unveiling of its U.S. Growth Group at American Express. partner, according to U.S. and over- His responsibilities include strate- seas sources. Summit Partners, which gies to expand alternative mobile and has offi ces in Boston, Palo Alto, Calif., online payment services, and form and London, has held a 20 percent new partnerships geared toward ex- stake in Vente-Privée since 2007. panding and building new revenue Market sources have indicated streams for the fi nancial fi rm. that Vente-Privée’s U.S. partner SEE PAGE 6

IN WWD TODAY

Topshop, Times Two PAGE 4 RETAIL: The fast-fashion retailer will unveil its second store in the U.S., a ﬂ agship in Chicago, in September.

American Apparel Trims Loss PAGE 8 FINANCIAL: The beleaguered ﬁ rm cuts losses and sees same-store sales stabilizing.

Parsons Fetes Reed Krakoff PAGE 7 FASHION: The fashion school honors the Coach creative director as well as Marvin FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

Traub and Arnold Aronson. L WWD.com/ RESORT 2012 fashion-shows-reviews. Urban Traveler And just like that, resort is here. At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier took a double- sided approach to the season. “The challenge is to work on the idea of resort as going away, but also as for the city,” he noted. Thus, looks were sporty, some with military touches, done in a muted palette with pops of brights. Maier also is launching his ﬁ rst resort collection for men, which opens for sales next week.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011 WWD.COM

FinanCial laBor Bulgari Posts $13M Net in Qtr. Beasley Tapped for Workers United of the year, compared with 2010, to sup- man of several union-affiliated national By LuiSA ZARgAni port product launches. The executive By kRiSTi ELLiS pension and insurance funds, including underscored the power of Bulgari’s Amalgamated Life insurance co., remains MiLAn — Lifted by growth in all mar- “brand campaigns,” fronted by the likes WASHingTon — Workers united, the on the board of the Amalgamated Bank and kets and product categories at both of Julianne Moore and, more recently main u.S. apparel and textile union, will continue as president of The Sidney retail and wholesale, Bulgari SpA re- kirsten Dunst, the face of the new fra- has elected noel Beasley to succeed em- Hillman Foundation, which supports and turned to the black in the first quar- grance Mon Jasmin noir. “They talk battled president Bruce Raynor, who an- rewards socially conscious journalism. ter ended March 31. The italian jew- about the brand,” enthused Trapani, nounced his resignation last month amid Workers united is said to have 150,000 eler said net profits totaled 9.3 million letting slip that there will be “another charges of misusing his ex- members in the u.S. and euros, or $13 million, compared with celebrity” in ads going forward. pense account. canada, who work in the a loss of 8.3 million euros, or The company is planning two retro- Beasley, who has served as laundry, food service, hospi- $11.4 million, in the same spective exhibitions on the his- director of Workers united’s tality, gaming, apparel, tex- period last year. tory of Bulgari, “125 years chicago and Midwest Regional tile, manufacturing and dis- Sales climbed 27.9 of italian Magnificence,” Joint Board and executive tribution industries. percent to 254.7 mil- in Beijing in September vice president of Workers Beasley was one of the lion euros, or $356.5 and in Shanghai in united, remains a vice presi- union leaders involved in million. December. The shows dent of the Service Employees helping save chicago-based chief executive were previously held international union, of which Hartmarx, the largest men’s officer Francesco in Rome and Paris, the union is an affiliate. wear apparel manufacturer in Trapani told WWD but they will be “This is an extremely dif- the u.S., which filed for bank- that Bulgari’s posi- modified for the ficult period of transition for ruptcy protection after u.S. tive performance china leg. the global trade union move- banks cut off its lines of credit. was to be attributed in Japan, de- ment, and the problems that Noel Beasley Workers united successfully to an improvement of spite the closure our international union must waged sit-ins and demonstra- market conditions, but of stores following confront are complicated,” Beasley said. tions to demand that the banks restructure also to the company’s the earthquake, “But these problems are in many ways re- the company’s debt to save some 3,500 jobs “competitive product de- tsunami and nu- flections of the hard times that now assault in the u.S. and canada. velopment, strong commu- clear tragedy, sales our members, their families and communi- Beasley was also involved in the cam- nication, advancement of its rose 10.7 percent. ties. We must move from defense to offense. paign to save the Hugo Boss plant in shopping experience and cost “Japan held in April, We must reclaim north America for work- cleveland, which employed 400 workers control.” too,” said Trapani. “it’s ing families and stop the attempts to roll last year but was planning to shut down All product categories posted a very complex situation, back virtually every hard-fought victory of and move production offshore. The union a double-digit growth, with sales The with earthquakes still taking the 20th century.” takes credit for pressuring Hugo Boss to in Bulgari’s core jewelry division Serpente place every day, and the nuclear Raynor, who officially stepped down on keep the plant open. rising 29.3 percent, accounting for bracelet. problem, and we are to expect en- Saturday, had been president of Workers “We know how to win for working fam- 44.8 percent of revenues. Watches ergy issues this summer with the united and its two predecessor unions, ilies,” Beasley said. “i look forward to gained 21.9 percent; fragrances, 32.9 need for air conditioning. it’s also psycho- uniTE HERE and uniTE, for the last working with all of our members to con- percent, and accessories, 19 percent. logical, but the Japanese are tough and decade. He will continue to serve as chair- tinue to add to our record of victories.” in particular, Trapani mentioned they will react, although it’s not over yet.” Despite the constantly rising price of raw materials and gold in particular, global political tensions, and debt-ridden FinanCial Chief executive countries, Trapani said “as an entrepre- neur,” he saw “a positive atmosphere,” officer Francesco which he hoped would continue. As of Coach Plans Dual Listing of Shares March 31, the company significantly re- Trapani underscored duced its debt to 132.4 million euros, or The filing is expected to take place with- $185.3 million, compared with 238.7 mil- By Vicki M. Young in the next few months, with approval ob- lion euros, or $327 million, at the end of tained before the end of the calendar year. the power of Bulgari’s March last year. nEW YoRk — coach inc. said Tuesday coach believes that it would be the Trapani also said he will take his that it will pursue a dual listing of its first u.S. domestic issuer to do a second- “brand campaigns.” new post as head of the watch and jew- shares on the Hong kong Stock Exchange ary listing in Hong kong. elry division at LVMH Moët Hennessy through the issuance of Hong kong A source familiar with the firm’s thinking Louis Vuitton on July 1, leaving his cur- Depositary Receipts. said the Shanghai Stock Exchange wasn’t the new Serpente watch for women as rent role. in March, LVMH agreed to The company said no additional an option since it doesn’t yet provide for the “very strong and successful.” He said acquire 50.4 percent of the jeweler in a shares would be issued, nor capital raised listing of international firms. in addition, timepieces had “a great quarter and an cash-and-share swap with the founding through the listing. many Japanese investors, the other market excellent April.” Bulgari family. LVMH plans to make a Lew Frankfort, chairman and chief where the coach brand has a huge following in the quarter, the company invested bid for the remainder of the company executive officer, said, “china is an im- in Asia, already invest directly in the u.S., 7.6 million euros, or $10.6 million, com- and is set to pay 4.3 billion euros, or portant initiative for us. The opportunity and a listing on the Tokyo Stock Exchange pared with 9.8 million euros, or $13.4 $6.01 billion. The hand over is expected in china is boundless. We are listing the wouldn’t really build brand awareness in million, in the same period the previ- on June 1, and a delisting of Bulgari is shares to build brand awareness among the greater china market. ous year. Dollar figures are converted at to follow by the end of July, following chinese consumers, many of whom are coach would be the latest global lux- average exchange rates for the periods the payment of a dividend of 0.12 euro, investors who follow the Hong kong Stock ury firm to join the rush to Hong kong. to which they refer. or 17 cents at current exchange, at the Exchange. We also believe it would help Prada is planning a listing on the Hong Advertising and promotional costs end of May. broaden our investor base, particularly kong Stock Exchange some time in the rose 46.7 percent, although 2011 im- Bulgari shares closed at 12.27 euros, those who are unable to invest directly in first half, while L’occitane already has plied greater concentration at the start or $17.62, on Tuesday, up 0.1 percent. u.S. equities.” listed there.

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Photo by MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. You talking to me? PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

JOSEPH ALTUZARRA // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER // MARCH 2011 REACH EVERYBODY WHO’S ANYBODY IN FASHION 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011

Topshop to Open Chicago Unit jackets and trousers have been a glass fi xtures and a ceiling par- By BETH WILSON hit. “At prom time, it’s fantastic.” tially covered by a mirrored Union Overall, Green believes the Jack fl ag. The main level will fea- CHICAGO — Topshop is get- key to success is maintaining ture clothing, ranging from holi- ting ready to open its second unique merchandise. “We have to day-ready $60 gray crushed vel- American store at last. make sure it’s special,” he said. vet pleated tops and $210 cotton After opening a fl agship in New “We need to go back to the be- twill dresses with gold and silver York’s SoHo in March 2009, the ginning when a designer or two beading to more casual $80 burnt London retailer is poised to unveil [in-house] produced limited edi- orange cropped jeans and $70 its second and largest U.S. store tions.” In that scenario, designers houndstooth print silk pleated shift along Michigan Avenue here Sept. 7. would produce 50 items unique dresses. The main fl oor also will The 49,000-square-foot loca- to, say, Chicago or New York. showcase handbags, accessories tion, with just less than 35,000 Chicago’s Topshop and Topman and makeup, including an exclu- square feet of selling space, is will maintain the look and feel of sive nail color called “Windy City.” slightly larger than the unit on the brand’s giant 90,000-square- Downstairs, customers will be able Broadway, which has 28,000 foot Oxford Circus flagship. to peruse the 2,000-square-foot square feet. The newest high-pro- “They want the iconic London shoe salon, lingerie and other ap- fi le corner location at 830 North experience,” said Mary Homer, parel collections with the top fl oor Michigan Avenue represents a $10 Topshop’s managing director. housing Topman and a DJ booth. million to $12 million investment, The three-level corner location, Green would not release projected confi rmed Sir Philip Green, the which was formerly a Borders book- annual sales for Chicago. In addition to opening new stores (Topshop operates 140 stores in total), the retailer plans to extend its brand of ir- reverent youthful fashions through its wholesale business, with women’s wear having 12 to 15 accounts, and Topman 25 accounts with well-known retailers such as Fred Segal

in Los Angeles, Opening Ceremony in New York and Colette in Paris. The largest vehicle for growth, however, is e-commerce. Online

sales for Topman, for Resort example, nearly dou- bled from 2009 to 2010, Topshop’s new store on Michigan Avenue will launch on Sept. 7. with the men’s business Time for up 30 percent so far in 2011, Shepherd said. owner of Arcadia Group, parent store, may carry ’’ more and heavier Topshop.com ships to 104 coun- Rachel company of Topshop and its men’s outerwear and boots taking into tries, with online sales ranking sec- sibling, Topman. account the cold Chicago winters, ond only to the Oxford Circus store. The Windy City opening will co- but otherwise the inventory will Green, meanwhile, is waiting incide with ongoing international not deviate much. “We don’t buy for the right moment to launch a Zoe expansion for the British fast- anything different specifi c to New Topshop home category and has Rachel Zoe is jumping fashion retailer, which plans to York, although we may alter the mix considered building a Topshop launch a 12,000-square-foot store slightly,” Homer said. “The bestsell- house or apartment online. right into resort, for in Toronto later in September, and ers are the bestsellers everywhere, Homer also said Topshop ex- which she’s continuing a São Paulo location in February whether it’s Russia or New York.” ecutives have discussed the pos- her love affair with 2012. All Topshops outside of the The retailer’s fast-fashion cycle sibility of fragrance, but noted the Seventies, U.K. are franchised except for the allows for easy tweaking, she said. “there has to be a good reason,” U.S. stores. Topshop buys 300 new lines a or a clear niche in a market that showing such looks Green is also involved in week and 15,000 items a year. For Homer considers saturated. as tailored pieces lease negotiations in Australia fall, Homer predicts fur pieces At the same time, Topshop and long, languid and continues to scout sites in dresses. America. Green, who traveled to Arizona, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Las Vegas and New The bestsellers are the bestsellers York before stopping in Chicago, said he would like to have eight everywhere, whether it’s Russia to 10 U.S. Topshops within the next two years. or New York. Topshop’s venture into the States has proved a learning ex- — MARY HOMER, TOPSHOP perience, he admitted. “We’ve got about 70 to 75 percent of it right,” he said of the New York store. and pencil skirts will be strong is looking to increase its social “We’ve still got a lot to learn.” sellers, citing a $200 light brown media presence and will likely Green noted that certain col- faux fur coat and a $70 leather- launch promotions during up- ors, prints and categories have trimmed silk print pencil skirt. coming local music festivals not sold as well in the U.S. as “Dresses for the last two years Lollapalooza and Pitchfork. they have in Britain. He’s also have been enormous,” she added. Social media will be an inte- grappling with holiday buying To mark the Chicago open- gral part of the Chicago opening, patterns in America. “We had an ing, the store will boast some 50 executives said, although spe- amazing Black Friday, but it’s a to 100 exclusive styles, includ- cifi c plans have not been fi nal- different peak,” he said, explain- ing some Chicago-themed piec- ized. “Our customer lives in that ing that U.K. holiday shopping es such as a women’s polyester world,” Homer said. “They’ve builds right until Christmas. blouse with vintage city prints grown up in it. Their mobile, FOR MORE Specifi cally, Topshop execu- and matching pants or a men’s their iPhone,’’ their Facebook LOOKS, SEE tives said women’s and men’s T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn page is their life.” denim, vests and men’s sneak- map of the lakefront. Other Although Green admits he’s not WWD.com/ ers don’t move as well here as in exclusive items will arrive in the most tech savvy (he has yet to fashion-news. the U.K. But men’s suiting and Chicago for the opening and ship purchase a smartphone, opting to men’s shoes, excluding sneak- to New York and other Topshop keep two old wallet-thick Nokia ers, perform better in the States. fl agships two weeks later. phones), he’s hoping to position

“Guys are dressing up more,” Shoppers entering the Chicago Topshop as a leader in social KEENAN STEFANIE

said David Shepherd, Topman’s store will encounter a sleek, urban media. “I say it’s in the cake. It’s BY managing director, noting that decor, complete with a white tile part of fashion now,” he said. “ Yo u

the store’s slim-ﬁ t Sixties-style floor, brushed steel, suspended ignore that at your own peril.” PHOTOS WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11 , 2011 5 WWD.COM accessories Two’s Company He said, she said. And then came two new jewelry collections.

changing directions, introducing circus- By VENESSA LAU Alan Brodsky and and Fellini-inspired pieces in rich ru- Jeeyun Kim bies and emeralds, yet still with a clean, JEEYUN KIM WAS an assistant at New graphic sensibility. “I’m not fussy or too York’s China Institute in 1995 when she girly,” she says. “I like a controlled look.” ﬁ rst met jewelry designer Alan Brodsky, GEORGE CHINSEE As for Brodsky, this isn’t his ﬁ rst jew- who was then teaching wax modeling at elry run; he designed a line of silver and

Parsons The New School Of Design. The STILLS BY acrylic pieces in the early Eighties — made for (Lifetime) TV hook: He was “modernist and very hard-edged” is how married to her boss. One year and a di- he describes them — and then a more ar- vorce later, they bumped into each other chitectural gold collection a decade later. on Park Avenue South. “I thought she Since then, Brodsky, a New York native, was one of my students. I couldn’t place has been teaching and working the free-

her,” says Brodsky, 66. “Then the story THOMAS IANNACCONE; lance circuit as a wax-model maker and, goes on from there.” as of 2003, a CAD designer. Among his Although they won’t go into details clients is the downtown-based Weapons

— cue Seinfeld’s “yada, yada, yada” — BY PORTRAIT Specialists, a prop house that supplies the two became a couple. Brodsky still faux fi rearms and stunt kits to fi lm and teaches — now at the 92nd Street Y — TV sets. Gigs have included HBO’s and Kim, who was previously studying in- “Boardwalk Empire” (creat- ternational relations, is the lead jewelry ing Twenties-era guns designer at Leviev, where she’s worked and license plates); for the past six years. She has Brodsky to “Salt” (Angelina thank for this. He was the fi rst to spark Jolie’s detonator) her initial interest in baubles, and intro- and next year’s duced her to the company’s production “Men in Black III” manager, who went on to hire her. “I had Pieces (sculpting the moun- no formal training,” says Kim, 41, who’s Diamond in the Rough, from Kim’s tains in a snow globe). spent time at Liz Claiborne Inc., Jeff while the V represents LAV line. “I’m part designer and Brodsky’s Kantra and Diamond in the Rough. “Alan Veronica Lake. “LAV is part engineer,” he re- collection of taught me. I learned hands-on.” all about strong women,” marks. “I like objects that whistle pendants. Now, both are launching jewelry lines she says. “Independent, do things. I want to make of their own: for Brodsky, an eponymous stylish and unique. watches, cigarette lighters.” collection of whistle and knife pendants, They’re healthy narcis- First up, though, is his 12-piece collec- the Greenmarket in Union Square. “We and for Kim, a debut brand of fi ne jew- sists, if you want to say.” tion of tiny silver whistle pendants ($400 walked by this woman who was wearing elry, named L AV. LAV is also inspired by each at retail), launching this summer. this little Forties-style knife [on a neck- “I need to experiment and do some- the Art Deco period, mining There are takes on Bolivian police whis- lace],” recalls Brodsky. His versions, thing for me,” says Kim of her new ven- the era’s geometric lines and inclination tles, English bobby whistles, even the tin launching later this year at the $700 ture, which is inspired by a constella- for pearls, crystal and chalcedony. An whistles from a Cracker Jack box — all price point, will be miniscule — just a tion of muses, from usual suspects Jane 18-karat white gold cocktail ring, for in- of which are completely functional. “I little more than an inch long — and in- Birkin and Charlotte Gainsbourg to the stance, features a faceted crystal dome think the shapes are so beautiful,” says laid with onyx, jade and mother-of-pearl. trio of women who lend their names topped with diamonds and a South Sea Brodsky, who plans to next cast them in “I’m going to put little diamond settings to the LAV label. The L stands for Lily pearl. The collection, which retails from gold. “In another 50 years, there won’t be on some too,” he adds. Beer-Chiavetta, a therapist friend whom $2,500 to $7,000, is all about this point- any more [whistles]. Really, I’m just try- So, will there be a collaboration in the Kim describes as “rock ’n’ roll chic counterpoint: gobstopper crystal and ing to save them and give them a more pipeline for the couple? “I don’t think so,” — imagine Vivienne Westwood in her chalcedony stones offset by delicate blue prominent place in design.” responds Kim, without skipping a beat. Eighties.” The A is for Anjanette Clisura, sapphire and black and white diamond His retractable knife collection came “He likes to teach me things,” she says. president and co-creative director of details. Next collection, though, Kim is about after a trip he and Kim took to “And then I tend to compete with him.” Temple St. Clair at 25 WHEN TEMPLE S T. CLAIR CARR started designing jewelry in for one. Yet St. Clair Carr’s design approach 1986, all it took was an introduction to the Pressmans, the original has remained largely the same despite owners of Barneys New York and, boom, you were in business. the trends of the moment. “I guess it St. Clair Carr’s collection, called Temple St. Clair, of ornate, was maybe the early Nineties when the Byzantine 18-karat gold pieces decked with big cabochons, magazines were showing no jewelry at all was the fi rst fi ne jewelry to be sold at the store, located or everything was platinum and white and on 17th Street at the time. “They would call me — this it was all very minimal, but I didn’t change was when cell phones were bricklike things — every my style,” she says. “I have a strong vision of time something sold,” she says. “It was all very who I am and what I do and why I do it, and I think cutting edge and the Pressmans were at the top of that’s been a strength for 25 years.” their game. It was a really fun time that I fell into. ” She still works with Italian artisans for a look To say St. Clair Carr fell into the business is an that is often mystical. Some of her signature pieces understatement. She was then a twentysomething include rock crystal amulets, and rings and pendants from Virginia studying Italian Renaissance literature done in yellow gold with pink tourmaline, aquamarine in Florence, with the cash to work with Italian and pearl (priced between $1,000 and $150,000). Temple goldsmiths on one-off pieces for family and friends. After St. Clair has the collectors, stores — more than 100 wholesale a year or so, her pieces landed in Barneys, and she started accounts — and longevity to show for her consistency. Aside splitting her time between Italy and New York, where she from a brief partnership in 2002 with Tiffany & Co, in which targeted the press, Condé Nast in particular. the jewelry house took a stake in Temple St. Clair with the “I literally went in the elevators and I’d hit every intention of boosting her retail presence, the business has magazine,” recalls St. Clair Carr. “It was really funny remained independent. (She bought back Tiffany’s stake in because every fl oor had its own personality. Yo u went to 2005.) “The one lovely thing about Tiffany was it was like being Vogue and the people at the desk there were very cool and anointed by the big houses,” says St. Clair Carr, who now runs not so welcoming. Then I remember Glamour; at the time the company with her husband, Paul Engler, who is also chief Kate Spade was the accessories editor and she was adorable operating offi cer. “In terms of our wholesalers, it was a real sort Temple St. Clair and so nice. I was persistent and I didn’t have a lot at stake of authenticating.” In 2010, St. Clair Carr designed a collection JOHN AQUINO Carr and pieces because I didn’t have this big plan. I didn’t care if they for Target, and her latest limited edition line is in honor of from her anniversary wanted to see me or not, but I sort of made them see me.” her 25th anniversary, for which she’ll update and reissue 10 collection. The world of retail and editorial has obviously changed archival pieces, including emerald, diamond and sapphire

BY PORTRAIT considerably since then — there is no waltzing in unannounced, earrings and a peridot ring. — JESSICA IREDALE

6 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011

Vente-Privée Said Revealing U.S. Partner {Continued on page one} ers do not hold any inventory. Both business models do The flash sale sites are so popular among consum- include curation to better target a particular customer. ’’ ers that $34 billion online giant Amazon.com last week As consumer buying habits shift online, a variation of launched its members-only Web site Myhabit.com. In the concept is the daily deal site, such as Groupon and February, Nordstrom bought HauteLook for $270 mil- LivingSocial, which focus on local service deals. lion. And venture capitalists are still making investments Apar Kothari, founder and ceo of MyNines Inc., a in the sector. Gilt Groupe on Monday said it raised $138 sample sale-flash site aggregator, said, “There are three million in new funding, raising its valuation to $1 billion. types of flash sale shopper: They are either looking for Last month, ideeli Inc. said it completed its Series C fi- the best deal-value, a specific item or an opportunistic nancing round of $40 million, led by Next World Capital. buyer looking for newly listed items.” Kevin Ryan, Gilt’s founder and ceo, said Monday he According to Tom Bernthal, ceo of Kelton Research, expects more consolidation in the space in the next 12 “Flash sales are not a passing fad. It’s here to stay. months. Gilt is expanding rapidly, with plans to launch Consumers have voted with their dollars. They like this full-priced men’s and food sites this year. way of shopping and [the concept] is working.” “Our online male sales are three to four times bigger Bernthal pointed to Amazon and Zappos as disrup- The HauteLook, Myhabit and Vente-Privée Web sites. than Saks and five times bigger than Bloomingdale’s,” tive innovators that have transformed shopping online. Ryan said. He also believes consumers have adopted the flash sale As for the growing competition, Ryan doesn’t seem concept due to the idea of gamification. worried: “The large companies like ourselves have a lot “We’ve been watching for several years how compa- Retailers are looking at of revenues and a lot of traffic, and it’s going to be hard for the smaller companies to compete.” [flash sales] as a space that’s Meanwhile, Adam Bernhard, ceo of HauteLook, also is just fine with the competition. “I think the competition is great. It continues to show here to stay, and the brand that the consumer has chosen to shop this way. Retailers are looking at this as a space that’s here to stay, and the community sees this as brand community sees this as a legitimate brand distribution channel that it has to pay attention to on a regu- a legitimate brand lar basis,” he said. distribution channel. — ADAM BERNHARD, HAUTELOOK

nies are taking consumer behavior and adding elements of game play to make it more fun, enjoyable, sticky and a better shopping experience,” Bernthal said. He noted that flash sales are the “ultimate example of gamification,” since they pull in consumers and change the way they shop. Still, there’s debate on how the sites will evolve, mostly in reaction to inventory issues. Stephen Wyss, partner in the retail and consumer product practice at BDO USA, said, “Flash sales provide a tremendous opportunity as a distribution’’ channel, and the competition is starting to get hot. It started Bernhard said the top three online sites, which in- with a few players and now even eBay is considering clude HauteLook, do in excess of $1 billion in annual development of its own flash model site.” sales. He sees mobile innovation as the next driver Ironically, eBay’s $2.4 billion deal for fulfillment service for the space. The firm is launching its iPad app in the provider GSI Commerce in March did not include Rue La next 90 days so it can “go wherever the consumer is.” La, one of the top three flash sale sites in the U.S. Instead, Bernhard also disclosed that his firm is in regular Rue La La will be part of a holding company under the discussions with credit card companies, which he said leadership of GSI founder and ceo Michael Rubin in which are starting to recognize the “power of the space.” He eBay will hold a 30 percent minority interest. declined to elaborate on whether some arrangement Wyss said, “At some point, as the potential for access with credit card firms might be in the works. Flash sale to excess inventory diminishes, flash sales could evolve sites, interchangeable with the term private sales, meet to full-price or near full-price flash sales, moving the the thrill-of-the-hunt need of consumers shopping on- concept to a full-price model.…In addition, they can line, where members-only shoppers have a limited time create items just for the site, or test product on the site.” to make that deal. Some sites buy inventory, while oth- — With contriButions from Joelle DiDerich

BEAUTY BEAT Fragrance Foundation Bevy of Stars Come Out for FFAWN Fund-raiser France Sets Winners THE FLOOR of Midtown Manhattan’s to raise $1 million, considering the Hammerstein Ballroom was filled lineup of corporate sponsors — in- with a maze of couches arranged cluding Estée Lauder; Gucci; Donna PARIS — The Fragrance Foundation France held its into a series of interlocking lounges Karan’s Urban Zen Foundation, ceremony here last Thursday for Les Parfums 2011, reminiscent of a modern Roman ban- which decorated the hall; Coca-Cola, the country’s version of the FiFi Awards. The laure- quet hall as 800 people came togeth- State Farm; McDonald’s, and HSN. ates, resulting from a public vote, were: er the evening of May 1 to enjoy the An emotional moment came ■ Yves Saint Laurent’s Belle d’Opium for the best music of a parade of big-name stars early in the program when a letter women’s fragrance. — Corinne Bailey Rae, Jill Scott, was read by Destiny Williams, one ■ Chanel’s Bleu de Chanel for the best men’s fra- Jennifer Hudson, Christina Aguilera of the scholarship recipients, who grance. and the ultimate hostess of the night, described how FFAWN not only ■ Balenciaga’s Balenciaga Paris for the most beau- Mary J. Blige. reached out and gave her the unex- tiful women’s fragrance bottle. The music was upbeat and uplift- pected chance to go to college, but ■ Hermès’ Voyage d’Hermès for the most beautiful ing, befitting the reason for the gath- also provided emotional support men’s fragrance bottle. ering — to raise money for the Mary after her mother was murdered and ■ Lancôme’s Trésor in Love for the best advertising J. Blige and Steve Stoute Foundation she was left to discover the body. “It campaign for a women’s fragrance. for the Advancement of Women Now, is one of the few organizations that ■ Biotherm Homme’s Force for the best advertising an organization that provides educa- does not turn its back on women in campaign for a men’s fragrance. tion opportunities and scholarships need,” Williams’ letter concluded. ■ L’Occitane en Provence’s Pivoine Flora for best for young women who otherwise The evening culminated on a person- fragrance sold in a brand’s own stores. wouldn’t see college without them. al note for Blige, who explained that she The prize given by specialists — comprising a FFAWN was founded in 2007 by doubts she ever would have gotten her jury of bloggers, beauty editors and fragrance house Blige and impresario Stoute. The or- Mary J. Blige and Steve Stoute start in music without being inspired evaluators — went to Etat Libre d’Orange’s Like ganization, which supports an educa- by the Anita Baker song “Rapture.” This, Tilda Swinton. The perfumers’ award went to tion and skill enhancement center in emcee, with help from Blige, Robbie Baker then came onto the stage and Thierry Mugler’s Womanity. And the prize handed nearby Yonkers, now has a roster of Myers of Elle magazine and Stoute. the pair sang — what else — “Rapture” down from the Fragrance Foundation France itself 25 students on full scholarship. Stoute said he figures that as a re- and, of course, they did it together. went to Romano Ricci’s Juliette Has a Gun. Queen Latifah was the evening’s sult of the event, FFAWN will be able — Pete Born — Jennifer Weil WWD wednesday, may 11, 2011 7 WWD.COM Parsons Honors Reed Krakoff at Fashion Gala world would be like,” he said. Simon collins, dean of By Marc KariMzadeh “So many amazing people at- the school of fashion tended Parsons.” at Parsons, said. “You NeW YOrK — reed Krakoff is Quite a few of them, includ- never just get pasta, you the first to admit that he wasn’t ing Behnaz Sarafpour, Narciso get pasta sourced in the the greatest student at Parsons, rodriguez, ashleigh Verrier and foothills of Lombardy, but he nonetheless learned sev- Peter Som, were at the gala, along which will be treated eral key career lessons there. with Terry Lundgren, Stephen for four days. They will On Monday night, he recalled i. Sadove, renaud dutreil, Tom never just settle [for a few of those at the Parsons Murry, robert Vignola, Steven the ordinary].” Fashion Benefit, where he Kolb, china chow, ally hilfiger, Parsons alum Prabal was being honored for his Julie Gilhart, Simon doonan Gurung introduced the contributions to the fash- and Jonathan adler. The event graduating collections ion industry and his ca- also featured a special tribute with a heartfelt speech reer, which has taken him to arnold aronson and Marvin about his own experi- from anne Klein, Tommy Traub, who sat down on stage ences. Great design, hilfiger and ralph Lauren and mused about their his- he said, “should shake to coach inc., which he, tory with Parsons — both your core, stir some- in tandem with Lew are members of its board thing deep down in our Frankfort, transformed of governors and were heart and mind, and into a $4 billion leather honorees at the benefit take us to places where we would have never goods powerhouse. some three decades ago. Delphine Krakoff and Simon dreamed of going. Great Speaking to the audi- The event raised Doonan; Reed Krakoff and designs inspire and ence, which included over $1.5 million for Lew Frankfort; Parsons give us the courage and Parsons The New programs and schol- winners Serena Chang, the strength to dream School for design’s arships at Parsons, T. Young Hwang and David the impossible dream. graduating class, and a $450,000 gift Ferron; Prabal Gurung. Krakoff said that key from coach will But more importantly, lessons were “to trust result in the a great design triggers yourself ” and “believe reed Krakoff this desire and want and the need hwang was in yourself ” — notions for coach to learn more. named men’s he relies on to this day Scholarship for “i do hope you will always wear designer as he is building his Parsons fashion be on a constant quest for more of the year, Prabal own, namesake brand. students interested knowledge, ideas and change… while Serena Gurung Prior to receiving in accessory design. change that might affect and alter chang took the the award, Krakoff had The night also fea- your own thought process, your honors for chil- a moment to reminisce tured two runway work and through which maybe dren’s wear. “it’s hard to process,” about his student days. “i A look from presentations with you too might inspire a little kid Ferron, a former intern for Kevin remember sitting in central women’s wear looks from the from Nepal or america or around carrigan at calvin Klein, said. “it’s Park with friends of mine winner David graduates. “They the world to dream,” he added. been four years of hard work, and from school, sketching and Ferron. are like three-star This year’s winner for women’s many years of thinking about how thinking about what the Michelin chefs,” wear was david Ferron. T. Young hard i was going to work.” john aquino photos by

JOHN VARVATOS ENTERPRISES INC. John Varvatos

HSN INC. Mindy Grossman On Demand Video http://FNSummit.FORA.tv

KEEN James Curleigh 8 WWD wednesday, may 11, 2011

The unfinished Xanadu retail and entertainment complex in July 2010. Below: a rendering of the interior of American Dream@Meadowlands. famous white elephant in august, when Colony’s lenders foreclosed. Bausch said american dream will seek out small, exclusive operators. in addition to familiar brands, “we also want a unique mix of stores, many of which aren’t found in neighbor- ing malls,” she said. “at american dream, if a designer ever wanted to test something, we would be more than willing.” Bausch recently discovered a designer “of the coolest rain- coats i’ve ever seen” at neiman Marcus in garden state Plaza in Paramus, n.J. “her name is shelley

P ifantis and her brand, Kreio, a is priced from $300 to $600.

vans/ i asked her if she’d like to e have a pop-up shop.” Mel “The center will be positioned from mid- to high-

Photo by end,” said ghermezian. “We’ll run the gamut from higher price points to midtier.” entertainment has been reconceived to Redreaming Xanadu include skydiving, a water park, a skating soho shopper, but we’ll do it under glass rink and miniature By sharOn edelsOn in a setting that’s easier to shop and we’ll golf. american dream provide dining experiences.” will preserve some of neW YOrK — For an idea of what the at american dream, there will be room industry sources said american the original elements, such as the 600- renamed and reimagined Xanadu will for everything from emerging and well- dream is talking to several department foot indoor ski slope. be like, look no further than the Mall known designers to dollar stores. Triple stores and is reportedly interested in One part of the original plan Triple Five of america. Triple Five, the Canadian Five plans to expand the mall to 3 mil- european retailers such as rimowa, won’t adhere to is segmenting retailers by conglomerate that owns the 4.2 million- lion square feet from its original 2.3 mil- reese, Y3, rag & Bone, Moncler Fred product category; for example, grouping all square-foot shopping center outside lion square feet. despite its gargantuan Perry and anya hindmarch. ghermezian the home furnishings stores together and Minneapolis, has a deal with the state of size, american dream isn’t thinking only declined to discuss specific retailers. all teen merchants together. “We’ll mix it up new Jersey to take over the perennially about big boxes and anchors, although don if american dream follows Mall of a lot more. stores will be clustered accord- troubled Xanadu in the Meadowlands. ghermezian, principal and chief executive america’s pattern, 35 to 40 percent of ing to the demographics of the customers,” Triple Five has until the end of the year officer, said, “We want to encourage new visitors will be tourists with key inter- said Bausch. to line up $1 billion in financing for concepts and new ideas, but we’re primari- national markets, including Canada, she admitted that american dream née the project, which it has rechristened ly concentrating on successful, established germany, great Britain, scandinavia, Xanadu “certainly has baggage. The project american dream@Meadowlands. boutique retailers. We plan on being a very latin america and Japan. has got some history, but [retailers] also like “We’re going to keep a lot of the same strong tourist destination. in order to do Mills Corp. originally conceived of our new designs and feel the designs and elements as Mall of america,” said that, we need to get those international re- Xanadu eight years ago. By 2006, Mills the finishes are much more sophisticated. Maureen Bausch, a spokeswoman for tailers. We’re focusing a lot of our efforts was in financial trouble. The project Our design has the retailer in mind.” Triple Five. “We will do fashion shows on european [brands] to make american suffered from cost overruns, construc- “Fashion will be one of the most im- and have fashion wings. The key to de- dream their first U.s. store.” tion delays, work stoppages and dis- portant components of the shopping cen- signing a mall with the right merchandis- ghermezian said american dream putes with state and local officials and ter,” ghermezian said. “entertainment ing mix is to look at the market and find hopes to take “a lot of the mainstream re- the new Jersey sports authority. Colony will be equally important. People are what’s lacking. We worked on a merchan- tailers and do different things with them. Capital, a private equity firm, took over, going to ask themselves, ‘am i going to dising plan to create a new environment For example, a tenant that would nor- but it, too, ran into financial difficulties leave new York City to go to new Jersey?’ for retailers, one that will attract a thirty- mally take 10,000 square feet would do a and construction halted. Triple Five if we have the right fashion component, something trend shopper, someone like a 35,000-square-foot flagship.” gained control over new Jersey’s most we believe they will.” ReTAIL American Apparel Target Gives Lines Own Fall Identity Trims 1st-Qtr Loss While TargeT’s designer collaborations Target,” said Joshua Thomas, a Target spokesman. generate lots of buzz, the discounter’s own brands “We have these well-established brands, but we aMeriCan aPParel inC. on Tuesday reported after the mar- — Merona, Converse One star, Mossimo supply also know that for the Target guest, style is about ket closed that it narrowed its first-quarter loss. Co. and Xhilaration — offer a soup-to-nuts ap- individuality and mixing and matching different For the three months ended March 31, the company said the proach to product that allows each to stand on its pieces to create their own definition of style.” loss was $20.7 million, or 28 cents a diluted share, versus a $42.8 own. each collection speaks to a slightly million loss, or 60 cents, last year. sales fell 4.7 percent to $116.1 different audience, offering casual or million from $121.8 million. Comparable sales declined 8 per- careerwear, classic styling or interpreta- Fall looks cent on a constant currency basis, the company said. tions of the latest trends. at Target’s fall from Target. The firm ended the quarter with 258 stores, a reduction of 15 editor preview, the brands were encour- units in the quarter. One improvement is its gross margin, which aged to do something they don’t always the company said was 55.1 percent for the quarter, compared do: mingle. For example, one model with 50.4 percent in the year-ago period. wore a Mossimo supply Co. shirt in pink dov Charney, chairman and chief executive officer, said, stripes, $22.99; a Merona plaid jacket “Our first-quarter financial results demonstrate early signs of with suede details, $34.99; Mossimo recovery and our first quarter has historically been our least Jeans, $22.99, and Xhilaration brown ox- profitable quarter.” fords, $24.99. arriving in stores in august he noted the retailer’s key selling season is May through October, and september, the fall collections fea- adding that the firm’s inventory assortment is “well positioned.” ture warm and neutral shades with The company said comps were “essentially flat so far in the bright pops of color, and patterns such second quarter and we continue to expect to achieve positive as florals, paisleys, stripes and plaids. comparable-store sales for 2011.” Target’s designers are also betting on col- Tom Casey, acting president, said recent sales trends are

legiate-chic denim in various silhouettes, John aquino “somewhat ahead of our business plan.”

Oxford shirts and black-and-white prints. by The company said on april 26 that it raised new capital, al- “Fall really presents an opportu- lowing it to continue with the execution of its business plan.

nity to reintroduce what style means at Photos — Vicki M. Young KATE MOSS is the subject HISPARD MARC of an exhibition

PHOTO BY at Paris’ Galerie de l’Instant. WWDSTYLE Page 11. A ﬁ tting with Fan Bing Bing in Louis Vuitton’s Cannes pop-up store.

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

MAGAZINE APPS Tablet As Savior? Cannes Opener Not Quite Yet, From Woody to Gaga and pop-up shops to bottles popped, WWD takes a look at what to expect on the French Riviera this week at the 64th annual Cannes International Film Festival. Industry Says By JOHN KOBLIN and AMY WICKS bassador Mélanie Laurent, will The last movie is based on By KATYA FOREMAN and host the event, joined by jury pres- Lionel Shriver’s award-winning ELEVEN MONTHS AGO, WHEN JOELLE DIDERICH ident Robert De Niro and the festi- novel about a middle-class mother Condé Nast launched its Wired val’s jury members, including Uma struggling to cope with her socio- app on the iPad and revealed PARIS — With an electric lineup Thurman and Jude Law. path son who fi nally embarks on its impressively strong 100,000 of megawatt fi lmmakers and movie Films contending for this year’s a Columbine-style killing spree. MEDIASTYLE downloads, the company’s stars headed into town, the 64th Palme d’Or include “The Tree of Swinton is expected to wear WWD chief executive officer Chuck Cannes International Film Festival Life,” the fi fth feature in almost Haider Ackermann for the fi lm’s Townsend was extremely proud. looks set to give the city’s power 40 years by reclusive writer-direc- premiere on May 12. “Ca-ching, thank you very much, supplier a run for its money. tor Terrence Malick, which stars Movies being screened out of if you will,” he said a month after the app’s Woody Allen’s feel-good hom- Brad Pitt, Sean Penn and Jessica competition include “The Beaver,” launch. The cash machine then promptly shut off age to Paris, “Midnight in Paris,” Chastain; “Drive,” by Danish di- directed by Jodie Foster and star- for any title in the industry. The so-called “Jesus will open the festival tonight rector Nicolas Winding Refn, starring Mel Gibson; the world pre- Tablet” wasn’t acting very magical. Advertisers at the city’s seaside Palais des ring Ryan Gosling, Carey Mulligan miere of “Pirates of the Caribbean: stopped returning iPad-related calls. The con- Festivals, with cast members and Christina Hendricks; Lars On Stranger Tides,” and Xavier ventional wisdom from magazine publishers Rachel McAdams, Michael Sheen, von Trier’s “Melancholia,” star- Durringer’s “La Conquête,” which switched to: We can’t have a conversation about Owen Wilson, Adrien Brody and ring Kirsten Dunst, Charlotte is based on French president this being a business until subscriptions start. Léa Seydoux expected to tread the Gainsbourg, Kiefer Sutherland and Nicolas Sarkozy’s rise to power. Well, the conversation ignited last week, when venue’s fabled red carpet for the Charlotte Rampling, and the Lynne The film’s poster features the Hearst and Condé Nast became the fi rst two big fi lm’s premiere. Ramsay-directed family drama, lower body of a man dressed in a publishers to unveil those ever-elusive subscrip- Master of ceremony, young “We Need to Talk About Kevin,” suit and stack-heeled shoes perched tion deals with Apple. Condé Nast launched fi rst, French actress and new Dior am- starring Tilda Swinton. {Continued on page 12} {Continued on page 10} 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011 Media Industry Weighs In MEMO PAD TIME FOR A CHANGE: Business journalist and author James Stewart is leaving Dow Jones to become a On Paid Subscriptions for iPad New York Times business columnist. Stewart will succeed Joe Nocera, who left the business desk to {Continued from page 9} idea — fi nally — if the tablet is a real business or not. become an op-ed writer for the Times. Stewart’s with The New Yorker going live on Monday. “I am predicting that this will be a very large column will appear on Saturdays. So is it now time to talk about how Christmas,” said Sauerberg, who believes that, by that time, In order to take the job, Stewart is walking this will be a real business? tablets will be fl ooding the marketplace. away from the company that has been his home Not yet, it appears. “Until now, we put a lot of work in without a for the past 27 years. According to insiders at both great deal of return,” said Townsend. “That’s the “I just think the Times is a great institution,” MEDIASTYLE companies, executives aren’t ex- problem. Work was a given, the return we were he said. “I can write on a broader subject at WWD actly doing backfl ips. One Condé more hopeful for. Now we have an attractive ad the Times. The Journal, the way it’s structured, Nast insider told WWD that the deal proposition so we’re not losing money. But the I don’t think could have offered me the same the company struck is virtually the same edit task is overwhelming.” kind of column. In the many years that I’ve as the one that Apple has been proposing for months — “Apple is one of many distribution mod- been connected to Dow Jones, there’s been a that is, publishers fi nally threw in the towel and els,” said David Carey, president of the good deal of change. I was happy here. It was will see if they could make a go of it the Steve magazines division at Hearst. “I think really the opportunity to do something new, Jobs way. If a magazine’s app is sold in the Bob people selling their products on the with a somewhat different audience and a new iTunes store, 30 percent of that money goes to Sauerberg Colored Nook [Nook Color] are look- challenge. That’s how you stay young, really.” Apple and readers will have to check off a box ing at fantastic sales.” Stewart said that it was “healthy to make a that would allow publishers to have access to Yes, but what about Apple? change,” but also said his decision was infl uenced that very critical treasure trove of consumer “What’s wonderful about the news by the fact that he knows so many more people at data. In other words, it’s not exactly the deal of the last week with the big compa- the Times now. publishers were hoping for. nies getting behind Apple is that we “I think as you get older, working with people Time Inc, meanwhile, has decided to wait are going to hopefully train consumers you really like is a big plus,” said Stewart, who is on the sidelines altogether. Steve Sachs, exec- that the iTunes store is a great place to 59. “I don’t know most of the people at the top of utive vice president, consumer marketing and buy magazine subscriptions,” he said. the Journal anymore. But the people at the top sales, said the company continues to talk to Note the word “hopefully.” Plus “be- of the Times I know really well. [Business editor] Apple but a subscription deal isn’t in the works, hind Apple.” Not beside it. This isn’t a Larry Ingrassia, [managing editor] John Geddes and at least not right now. “We’re not saying we will partnership; it’s Apple’s game — hence the [managing editor] Jill Abramson were all extremely never do this,” said Sachs. “We’re saying that we interest in the Nook Color and HP. close friends of mine from years past at the are very happy with the relationship we’ve built Nevertheless, there was some en- Journal.” with Apple up until now. There are multiple ways couraging news this week. Stewart said his Times column will be a to work with Apple as a partner.” Time Inc. sub- Since Monday, when The New Yorker broader column about business. “One thing I scriptions are currently sold on the Android and subscriptions on the iPad went up for liked about Joe’s column is he skillfully, within they will be available for purchase on HP’s tablet, sale, it has been listed as the top-grossing the context of a column, was able to develop which makes its debut this summer. app in the iTunes store, the best result for some narrative,” he said. “I want to keep doing At the National Magazine Awards Monday night a Condé title since Wired’s app went up that. I want to look at the impact of real people. I — despite the fact that some companies in magazine for sale last May. Condé Nast offi cials said want to focus on some of my traditional themes, industry fi nally had the subscriptions it had been they didn’t have numbers available — they which include ethical behavior, transparency, fair waiting for — there was a decidedly less-than-enthu- are produced on a weekly basis — but that dealing, but maybe give it a little bit more of a siastic feel to everything tablet-y. For the time being, it looks encouraging. corporate focus.” there won’t be any “Mission Accomplished” banners “There are many ways to have a good day The column begins in June. hanging from the Hearst Tower or 4 Times Square. in the magazine business as it gets stranger The move is a big one in many ways for the The approach remains: Wait and see and hope. and stranger,” said New Yorker editor David Times. For starters, it adds a marquee name “Someone was talking to us today and said Remnick while accepting the public service at a time when the paper has had some talent something pretty useful,” said New York editor award. “Ours today at The New Yorker is to retention issues. In the last six months, the paper Adam Moss. “There were three stages. Let me see our app has past Angry Birds has lost op-ed columnist Frank Rich to New York see if I can remember the three stages. The in the iTunes store. Eat your Magazine; foreign correspondent Dexter Filkins fi rst stage was, ‘iPad aahhh! What is that?’ The heart out, William Shawn.” to The New Yorker; op-ed editor David Shipley second stage was, ‘Yay! iPad!’ And now the What will the metric for to Bloomberg, and Sunday business editor Tim third stage is ‘OK, but why?’ And that’s where success be? O’Brien to the Huffi ngton Post. we are now. The ‘why’ stage. It could be some- “Now the numbers will fi - And in the growing narrative of Rupert Murdoch’s thing big or it could be nothing at all.” nally become impressive,” Dow Jones versus the Times, score a big one for Are subscriptions the magic bullet? said David Granger, editor in publisher Arthur Sulzberger Jr. Stewart has had a “I really don’t think anyone knows yet,” said chief of Esquire. “I hope so. It long and distinguished career at Dow Jones. He Marie Clarie editor in chief Joanna Coles. doesn’t take that much to be- won a Pulitzer Prize in 1988, and was a former “For a magazine that is about large size and come substantial. Fifty thou- Page One editor. He also won the George Polk images, I’m very much into the wait-and-see,” sand subs a year is doable. It Award in 1987 and the Gerald Loeb awards in said W editor in chief Stefano Tonchi. will be huge to the bottom line. 1987, 1988 and 2006. He will continue to write for “In the short term, defi nitely not,” And this leads to rate base in- The New Yorker. — JOHN KOBLIN said Justin Smith, president of the creases to enhance what we Atlantic Media Group. “There’s been can charge advertisers.” NEW OUTLETS: Watch, a glossy magazine published this pent-up desire for solutions But Smith, the Atlantic’s by CBS that reports on the network’s stars, is and I think in the short term all the president, was decidedly less op- upping its fashion quotient. In the coming months, evidence points to slower adoption, timistic that this would happen. editor in chief Jeremy Murphy has tapped Ellen von less productive business models and “People put a lot of money in Unwerth to shoot a cover with “The Good Wife” a return to the drawing board.” at fi rst and used that as a gimmick to get press and to stars Archie Panjabi and Matt Czuchry in Paris, and “I don’t think when you’re a get buzz and Condé Nast used it as a way to cloak them- Patrick Demarchelier is shooting the September year into a new platform that selves in a digital halo,” Smith said. “But consumer cover. “It took us a while to talk Patrick into doing you make an immediate state- behavior is not following at pace and publishers it, but he’s really into it, and I think he likes that ment with whether something are sitting there frustrated thinking, ‘Well, why we give him a lot of freedom to shoot what he is going to work,” said Bob am I going to pour so many more millions of wants,” said Murphy. — AMY WICKS Sauerberg, the president of dollars into this when I’m not seeing the return Condé Nast. Sauerberg said or the path to return?’ BOOK CLUB: Designers Peter Som, Jeff Halmos, Rachel that it is fair to say, however, “What’s happening is that consumers aren’t Antonoff and Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock stopped by that by the fi rst half of 2012 moving as quickly as publishers would like the new Thomas Sires store in NoLIta on Tuesday the industry will have a clear them to,” he continued. “And they’re not behav- evening to celebrate the paperback publication ing exactly in the way publishers want them to of mutual friend Sloane Crosley’s “How Did You behave and they’re certainly not behaving in Get This Number.” Fellow writers Paula Froelich, David the traditional mind-set of how print subscrib- fresh off a trip to Vietnam, and Elizabeth Spiers, Carey ers behave. So I think what you’re seeing is fresh from a day editing The Observer, were also publishers trying to transition their business on hand to toast the New York Times best-selling mentality to this new medium, this new type of scribe on her collection of witty essays. consumer and they’re basically running into a “You have to modulate your defi nition of series of dead ends, or short-term dead ends.” productivity. I wear pajama bottoms a lot more He said that you’d be “hard-pressed to than I should,” said Crosley of her new full-time come up with a rational business case on the life as a writer, having quit her 10-year job as a tablet in the very short term” or in the next publicist at Vintage in December, following the six to 12 months, i.e. the same time-frame success of her fi rst book, “I Was Told There’d Sauerberg mentioned. Be Cake.” That evening, however, the youthful “The big players can afford to play around and Crosley was garbed in a pretty, fi tted white dress splash a lot of money around and make p.r. hay out from the Thomas Sires collection, a just-launched Justin of it,” Smith said. “The more entrepreneurial play- line and retail store from Fiona Thomas and Allison Smith ers like ourselves will be happy followers and try Sires, who both left positions at Loeffl er Randall to

to ﬁ gure out where we can invest meaningfully.” PERRIE WARDELL/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM SMITH BY MCCUNE/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; RYAN BY SAUERBERG GABOURY/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; SYLVAIN CAREY PHOTO BY create their own label. — DAVID LIPKE WWD wednesday, may 11, 2011 11 WWD.COM

shops in China operated by its members from Nicholas Perricone, have opened units at tripled between 2005 and 2009, the fruit nearby Malibu Village, which will also soon Fashion scoops of the collective action of its 75 members. be home to Nike Inc.’s nascent concept She likened France to a “Silicon Valley” called Salvation, which showcases its for purveyors of luxury goods, from Hurley, Nike and Converse brands together, PHOTO OP: On she rolls, gathering jewelry and fashions to food, hospitality and is rumored to be getting a Lanvin store. none of it: Kate Moss is in focus at La and home products. Galerie de l’Instant in Paris, which on BOYS ON FILM: Phillip Lim is trying his hand at Friday opens an exhibition devoted LUMBER MERCHANT: Los Angeles-based real film. Lim collaborated with San Francisco to the enduring supermodel and the estate brokerage Blatteis & Schnur has director Andrew Paynter to create a short photographic greats who have captured purchased a “significant minority interest” video that showcases his fall 3.1 Phillip her on film. More than 25 snaps will be in the Malibu Lumber Yard, according to Lim men’s collection and celebrates his displayed from the likes of Paolo Roversi, the firm’s co-chairman Daniel Blatteis, who recent nomination for a Swarovski Award Mary McCartney, Bettina Rheims and the declined to disclose the purchase price. for Menswear at this year’s CFDA Fashion late Corinne Day. The exhibition runs “We have the potential to increase that Awards. The atmospheric two-minute through Sept. 14. over time and that’s our full expectation,” clip features models Craig Hoeksema, Miles he said. Blatteis & Schnur has taken Frank and RJ King navigating a graphic WINTOUR AT THE MET: On Tuesday, Anna over the leasing and management urban landscape — which is actually Wintour was named elective trustee of the responsibilities at the Malibu Lumber Palm Beach. The short film will launch on Metropolitan Museum of Art — making Yard. Richard Weintraub and Richard Sperber, Nowness.com today. her a voting member of the board and who developed the two-year- recognizing the editor in chief of Vogue old 30,000-square-foot shopping at the institution she has championed center for roughly $25 million for many years. Wintour, who had been and put it on the market last year, an honorary trustee of the museum are still the majority owners. “I since 1999, has co-chaired 13 benefits “Kate Moss in Red Dress, am interested in staying in it for since 1995 and raised approximately $85 2004,” by Mary McCartney. the long haul,” said Weintraub. million for the Costume Institute. Last The center’s tenants include week’s gala brought in $10.4 million. Alice + Olivia, Tory Burch, the same bright color palette, which Maxfield, Kitson, Intermix and EXHIBITION GAMES: Monday evening found includes baby blue, sable, red and James Perse, which has leased an art aficionados traipsing into Midtown’s purple shades paired with black. additional location on the second Sanctuary Hotel for Garrett Chingery’s “I think that children are stimulated by level for its first restaurant. A still from exhibition of his latest works, co-hosted colors and graphics, but it’s very difficult The Malibu Lumber Yard the 3.1 by Billy Norwich and Gillian Hearst. Norwich to find playful products in stores,” said isn’t the only retail complex Phillip Lim greeted guests in the lobby, winking and creative director Angela Missoni. “That in the tony seaside town to be short film. leading them into the party. “I’m so glad is why I used to decorate my children’s experiencing activity. Missoni and you’re here,” he enthused to one. “Go strollers by hand with markers.” Super, the new skin care brand meet Garrett, he’s fantastic. And have a slider, everyone is talking about how good REGGIE TEAMS WITH FRANCK MULLER: they are.” They were: Several partygoers “Maybe I’ll give the players first dibs,” commented on the quality of the said Reggie Jackson at a launch event for comestibles, while Chingery circulated the Reggie Jackson Limited Edition among guests like Julie Macklowe, Marjorie Collection of timepieces at Tourneau Gubelmann, Marina Rust, Shelley Wanger, Time Machine 57th Street Monday Michele Gerber Klein and Lauren Remington afternoon (some current New York Platt and her sister, Ashley. Yankees — including Derek Jeter — were For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Chingery explained his variety of coming to toast the Baseball Hall of influences (“nature, Famer’s watch venture textures, people”). later that evening). A “Oh, why am I here?” watch collector and Ashley Platt jokingly longtime fan of the HEAD PATTERNMAKER mused. “I remember Franck Muller brand, Sptswr Co seeks 15 yr exp’d person to run pattern and sample room - must — hors d’oeuvres.” the legendary Yankee have sportswear/suit business. Must Sometimes the lure of was approached by the be fully experienced in draping, problem solving, doing fits with customers, free food is enough. timepiece company to knit/woven patterns and marking/ collaborate on a future grading. Daily duties to include dele- gate, monitor, and evaluate work. AURUM ATTRACTS SUITORS: project and jumped at Work with computerized patternmaking from development thru pro- Could Harvey Nichols the chance. The result: duction is a plus. Must have sense of owner Dickson Poon have a numbered, three-piece urgency and be involved in all phases of patternmaking. Send resume to: his eye on Aurum, the collection, each limited [email protected]

U.K.-based jewelry group? Jimi Celeste to 100, 25 and 25 units, According to a report on respectively, that retail Marketing Sky News’ blog Monday, from $10,300 to $20,300. Hong Kong-based Poon Photo by “This is really for SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER is planning on bidding Ashley Platt and New York first and all Reporting directly to the VP, Market- ing and Communications, the Special for Aurum, which houses Lauren Remington Platt things New York Yankees- Events Manager will be responsible for the U.K. jewelry retailers related,” Jackson said, managing the production of all special events from conception to completion Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland adding that he was involved in the design including fashion shows, charity fund- raisers boutique openings, celebrity and Goldsmiths. A spokeswoman for process from start to finish — he even events and trunk shows. Act as liaison Aurum declined comment Tuesday, as had input on the box and packaging. One between clients, vendors and sponsors and manage all event budgets. The did a spokeswoman for Harvey Nichols. style is black with rose gold, but the other ideal candidate will have five plus However, sources noted that Aurum’s sale two are navy with corresponding navy years of Special Events experience in process, which was announced in April, is rubber bands and the signature Yankee the luxury fashion industry. He/she SAMPLES / PATTERNS / SMALL LOTS must have excellent organizational at an early stage. pinstripes. “I asked if they would use a Good quality and service with 12 yrs skills, be a team player, detail oriented exp. for Samples, Patterns, & Small Lots creative, resourceful and have excel- Aurum was one of the retailers in rubber band to make it more sporty, and Prod’n. Please call David 212-840-9597 lent communications skills. Must also aft’noons or email: [email protected] have solid contacts in all areas detailed which the now bankrupt investor Baugur I asked for red tips on the hands. And above. Travel is required. was a shareholder. Currently it’s owned instead of a 4, there’s a 44 — my number,” Come on Board! Please fax or email your resume and by Landsbanki Islands hf, an Icelandic Jackson said. A portion of all sales will go Luxury denim brand PRPS is looking salary requirements to Fax: (212) 852- bank, along with chairman Don McCarthy to the Mr. October Foundation, the charity for new people to join our team. 5595 or e-mail [email protected]. Equal Opportunity Employer. and Aurum’s management team. The founded by the baseball player in 1997 to — PR & Communications Manager — Merchandising Manager shareholders put the company up for help at-risk children. — Office Manager Product Asst - Entry Level — Sales Assistant Fast paced access co. needs hardwork- sale last month, after it reported sales — Sales Back Office ing, reliable, detail oriented person to of 326 million pounds, or $534 million, EUROPEAN UNION: The Comité Colbert, Please send all inquiries to: work in product development dept of in the year to Jan. 30, and an earnings the French luxury goods association, SALES PRPS Showroom jewelry div. Data entry, good followup Ladies suit company is seeking a sales- 35 West 36th St., 2nd floor skills, daily communications with before interest, taxes, depreciation and is expanding beyond its borders. At a person to sell to chain/dept/specialty New York, NY 10018 overseas factories, knowledge of stores & catalog. Fax to 212-869-0246 Email: [email protected] Adobe Photoshop & Excel. Filemaker amortization figure for the period of 16.1 luncheon in Paris, Comité president a plus, opportunity for growth. million pounds, or $26 million, an increase Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes disclosed Fax resume: 212-869-7811 of 53 percent on the previous year’s figure. plans to welcome a handful of members TECHNICAL DESIGNER from countries without enough critical Missy Sptswr Co seeks Production Technical person with 5+ yrs experi- GOING FOR A STROLL: Dutch stroller mass to have their own industry ence in cut and sew knits and wovens company Bugaboo has teamed with body. She declined to name them, garments. Jackets a plus. Responsible for production tech packs. Problem Missoni to launch a colorful collection but it is understood the firms under solving ability a must, must know Gerber PDM and excel. Illustrator a of baby carriages that will be sold consideration include candidates from plus. Great opportunity for talented, exclusively at Neiman Marcus starting Germany, Denmark and Eastern Europe. organized, driven individual! Send in July. The line’s two models, Bee and She also said the group would promote resume to: [email protected] Cameleon, feature sun canopies with French savoir faire and taste in Brazil the Italian brand’s signature zigzag next year and in Turkey in 2013. motif and color-block pattern and are Along with the Middle East, China (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] priced at $199 and $269, respectively. has been a recent focus for the Comité. Both come with a knitted blanket in Ponsolle des Portes said the number of 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2011 WWD.COM

Below: Brad Pitt in “The Tree of Life.” Far below: Kirsten Dunst in “Melancholia.” eye SONY PICTURES CLASSICS BY “MIDNIGHT IN PARIS” SEARCHLIGHT; FOX CHRISTIAN GEISNAES; “TREE OF LIFE” BY

Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Owen Wilson in “Midnight in Paris.” STILL BY “MELANCHOLIA”

The Jean Paul Gaultier- designed Piper- Heidsieck Cannes Goods bottle. {Continued from page 9} Wong Kar Wai’s “In the Mood for Love,” celebrate the opening of their fi rst Cannes Far left: on a high stool, his short legs dangling in showcasing eveningwear and accessories. boutique, at number 67 on the Croisette. Chanel’s the air. With rumors of ruffl ed feathers at Through a lush, plant-filled courtyard The 2,150-square-foot unit will feature limited the Elysée Palace, neither Sarkozy nor stands a space dedicated to the house’s a fl oor made from dark brown quartzite edition his wife Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, who plays timepieces and fi ne jewelry. mixed with crystal dust, scattered with camellia by a museum guide in Allen’s “Midnight in The store will sell a series of limited dark brown ponyskin rugs. Backlit crystal Lemarié. Paris,” is expected to attend the festival. edition products, including a black clutch units will display bags and accessories, On the party circuit, offi cial spon- embroidered by Lesage and satin pumps while the eveningwear area will be framed sor Chopard has a slew of glitzy embellished with fl owers and strands by platinum-colored leaf applications. events in the pipeline, in- of pearls. The space was formerly Talent manager and public relations man cluding a bash on May occupied by fellow LVMH Moët Charles Finch is taking over cabana No. 524 14 for the 10th anniver- Hennessy Louis Vuitton brand at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in neighbor- sary of the Chopard Celine, and will be perma- ing Antibes to present his newly launched Trophy. Chopard is nently annexed to Vuitton’s Chucs collection, inspired by his sporty an- also the main sponsor existing Cannes store in 2012. cestors and his childhood in Jamaica. The for Naomi Campbell’s Chanel has also opted for space will sell swimwear, espadrilles, hats, Fashion For Relief an extension of its original T-shirts and polos from May 11 to 22. Tod’s Japan Fund Raiser boutique, with a black and has come on board to support Finch’s an- 2011 due to be held gold space that offers a selec- nual Finch’s Quarterly Review dinner at the in Cannes on May 16, tion of clothes from the spring Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc on May 14, this year staged in collabora- 2011 collection, as well as pieces honoring Oscar-winning British fi lm production with Italian Vogue. AA from the pre-fall Métiers d’Art er Jeremy Thomas. number of top models, enter- line. Open from May 7 to 22, the store And in terms of this year’s hot music tainers, style infl uencers and so- will also host bars for makeup, nails and gigs, Duran Duran is lined up to play at cialites are expected to participate in the handbags, sell limited edition camellias by a bash hosted by Belvedere at the VIP fashion show, which will be based around a Lemarié and showcase gowns worn by the Room on May 13, while Jamiroquai will “Runway to Red Carpet” theme. likes of Keira Knightley, the face of Coco perform at a Replay party on May 18 at Importing his signature dose of ooh-la- Mademoiselle perfume, and Penélope Cruz. the Martinez hotel, with Julio Santo la to the festival, meanwhile, Jean Paul Festival regulars Roberto and Eva Domingo booked to DJ. Lady Gaga is also Gaultier, with Piper-Heidsieck, on May Cavalli will host a cocktail on May 18 to expected to hit the fi lm festival. 13 will host a banquet in the city’s traditional outdoor Forville Market to fete the launch of a new limited edition cancan- inspired Champagne bottle designed by Gaultier (think a black latex dress, red eye mask and fi shnet sheath). Christian Dior, on May 20 at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, will host its annual dinner in collaboration with Elle magazine. Elena Anaya, the female lead of Pedro Almodóvar’s in-competition “The Skin That I Inhabit,” is rumored to be the night’s special guest. No longer content with setting up suites in luxury hotels during the festival, a growing number of brands are taking advantage of the event to open pop-up stores in the Riviera resort. Louis Vuitton unveiled its 1,400-square- foot boutique to the public on May 6 and plans to keep it open until Aug. 31. Located next to the brand’s fl agship on the mythic beachside Boulevard de la Croisette, it features a section inspired by Louis Vuitton’s pop-up boutique and a rendering of the new Roberto Cavalli boutique.