The Apennines: Italy’s Abruzzo National Park Naturetrek Tour Report 19 - 26 May 2016 Lady's Slipper Orchid Frosted Beech Trees Abruzzo Chamois Spring Gentian Report and images by Jessica Turner Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Participants: Jessica Turner and Luca Sattin (leaders) together with 15 Naturetrek clients Summary The Abruzzo National Park in the central Apennines of Italy always offers a wide range of wildlife encounters, including a few surprises. This year a late frost had turned great swathes of the fresh green Beech foliage to an autumnal brown, so the landscape had an unusual colour palette; it had also impacted on some of the other plants, and possibly other species. Trees higher up in the Val di Rose were unaffected, where we had great views of Abruzzo Chamois. These are always a pleasure to see, as are the Wild Boar, Red and Roe Deer, and a Beech Marten was a good sighting. We were disappointed not to see the Marsican Brown Bear this week (although they were seen in the second week), but it is a reminder that these are truly wild animals, never fed by humans, and any sighting of these or Wolves is a bonus. We enjoyed a wide selection of birds, butterflies and flowers, especially the orchids in their abundance. Geraldine and Marco, as ever, provided a warm welcome and excellent hospitality, introducing us to several local specialities. An excellent week in a delightful location! Day 1 Thursday 19th May London Heathrow to Rome to Pescasseroli Thirteen group members met Jessica at London Heathrow for our lunchtime flight to Rome. We landed about 4.15pm, retrieved our luggage, and met Luca who was waiting for us in arrivals. Having collected the minibuses, we set off to negotiate the Rome ringroad, which was very busy with evening traffic. A Black Kite was seen from the bus, along with Starlings, Hooded Crows, Yellow-legged Gulls, Swifts and Swallows. The traffic eased as we drove east, enjoying the little hill-top villages and gorges of the Apennine foothills. Soon after the motorways branched where we took the A24 towards Pescara, a Red Deer and four Wild Boar were spotted in fields by the road. It was getting dark as we approached the National Park, and so we continued straight to Pescasseroli and through the village to the Albergo Paradiso, where we received the usual very warm welcome from Geraldine and Marco. We soon settled into our rooms and then enjoyed an excellent dinner, during which Jessica outlined plans for the morrow. After a long day, we then retired to bed. Day 2 Friday 20th May Around the hotel; Camosciara; Gioia Vecchio This morning some of the group ventured out at 7am, to explore the local area. It had been a cold night with a lot of rain and the mountains were covered with a dusting of fresh snow, looking beautiful in the clear morning light, with clouds hanging in the valleys. A Coal Tit was nesting in a wall by the hotel and a male Redstart was singing and showing well, as were Serins and Tree Sparrows. On the slope behind the hotel were the endemic Pansy Viola eugeniae, in various shades but predominantly yellow, together with Meadow Saxifrage (Saxifraga © Naturetrek May 16 1 The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report granulata) and, further on, we found Toothed Orchid (Neotinea tridentata) and Green-winged Orchid (Anacamptis morio). The views were stunning all around, and we could see the village of Opi perched on its hilltop. After breakfast, with the picnic bought, we headed south-east down the valley of the Sangro past Opi, to our destination of Camosciara, in the heart of the National Park. Having parked the vehicles, we set off up the valley. Due to the recent heavy rain, the lower meadows were extremely muddy, so exploration was limited. However, among the Juniper (Juniperus communis), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) and Wild Pear (Pyrus pyraster) scrub, we found some spikes of Twayblade (Neottia ovata), a Military Orchid (Orchis militaris), plus a few Early Purple Orchids (Orchis mascula subsp. speciosa) and more Green-winged Orchids, all growing with some protection from grazing. We also noted Nice Milkwort (Polygala nicaeensis), Common Globularia (Globularia vulgaris) and Horseshoe Vetch (Hippocrepis comosa). Back by the path, we added Lady Orchid (Orchis purpurea), Bird’s-nest Orchid (Neottia nidus-avis) and, interestingly as a first for this trip, Fly Orchid (Ophrys insectifera). A Marsh Tit showed well, and Caroline saw a Hare. The road was lined by trees and shrubs, including Spindle (Euonymus europaeus), Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea), Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas), Turkey Oak (Quercus cerris), and Goat Willow (Salix caprea). A solitary Orange Tip was our only butterfly record of the day. Blackcaps were numerous and Wood Warbler was also heard. By the stream, now fenced off, a clump of Lady’s Slipper Orchids (Cypripedium calceolus) bore a single, rather damp, flower. Further up, we also found patches of the endemic Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana dinarica), Shrubby Milkwort (Polygala chamaebuxus) and the enormous kidney-shaped leaves of Thore’s Buttercup (Ranunculus thora). A Dipper shot past along the stream. We had our picnic near the cafe, not deterred by a light shower, before climbing to the waterfalls Cascata delle Tre Cannelle and Cascata delle Ninfe (Cascade of Three Channels and Cascade of the Nymphs). Under the Beech trees (Fagus sylvatica), we found spikes of Coralroot Orchid (Corallorhiza trifida), and we had good views of Dipper and Grey Wagtail near the waterfall. We started to retrace our steps, part of the group stopping by the stream, where we found more of the endemic Trumpet Gentian and the endemic, large-flowered, Camosciara Butterwort (Pinguicula vallis-regiae). On the slopes above the valley, about 25 Red Deer were grazing, and a solitary, large Wild Boar set the pulses racing for a while. A Peregrine was seen over the mountain and a Chamois was silhouetted on a rock. Back in the valley, Paul saw a Fox. We returned to the hotel for an early dinner. After an excellent meal, but in light drizzle, we drove slowly northwards through the valley towards Gioia Vecchio. Two Wild Boar were seen in the meadows en route, while another three were seen from the watchpoint. We also saw two Red Deer stags. There was a stunning red sky over the mountains. We returned to the hotel to celebrate Bob and Rowena’s wedding anniversary, before retiring after a full and fascinating day. Day 3 Saturday 21st May Gioia Vecchio; Val Fondillo; Opi A 5.30am start saw us heading north again towards Gioia Vecchio. Two Roe Deer and a Red Deer were seen from the vehicles. It was fine but windy and rather cold, but the birds were in full song. From the watchpoint, a Red Deer stag showed well and two more were seen, along with a Wild Boar. Black Redstart and Serin were around the church, and a Great Tit was nesting in the church wall. A Tawny Owl was heard, along with many 2 © Naturetrek May 16 The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report Cuckoos, including the female’s bubbling call. Two Firecrests responded to calls and displayed, showing their firey crowns. Our main destination today was Val Fondillo, which is adjacent to Camosciara but very different in character. We parked under some willows, and set off up the track. Almost immediately, we were diverted by prolonged and excellent views of Lesser Spotted Woodpecker on a dead tree branch, while a surprise was a fly-over Bee- eater, calling. Along the first part of the track, we found a plant of the endemic Hound’s-tongue, Cynoglossum magellense, just coming into flower, and Violet Carpenter Bees were on the wing. We looked for Ophrys on a steep bank, but failed to find any, finding instead Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum), Dodder (Cuscuta epithymum) and Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba minor) amongst the plants. Butterflies included Adonis Blue, Brown Argus and Wood White. Two Grey Heron were seen, one thermalling high. A pair of Red-backed Shrike showed well on bushes. On the slopes at the edge of the valley we found the dwarf Hairy Broom (Cytisus hirsutus), Rock- rose (Helianthemum nummularium) and the smaller flowered Hoary Rock-rose (Helianthemum oelandicum subsp. incanum), a few spikes of Toothed Orchid (Neotinea tridentata), and Bulbous Saxifrage (Saxifraga bulbifera). To the butterfly list we added Dingy and Southern Grizzled Skippers (a split from Grizzled Skipper which is not in this area), Berger’s Clouded Yellow, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Baton Blue, and some Green Hairstreaks. Raven and Buzzard were seen ovehead. A large boulder near the bridge bore the endemic Saxifraga porophylla (a Reddish Saxifrage), and nearby were several spikes of Military Orchid (Orchis militaris). Here we crossed the bridge over the river, noting the Trout, to walk up the other side. Sword-leaved Helleborine (Cephalanthera longifolia) was growing under the Beech trees, and in the grassy areas, more Toothed Orchids and Green-winged Orchids were in flower. Amongst the Juniper scrub were the deep blue Trumpet Gentians. Pearl-bordered Fritillaries, Orange Tips and Little Blue were noted. We had our picnic by the stream in a delightful meadow, enjoying local cheeses, hams and wine. Some of the group explored a steep rocky bank where we found the local bellflower Edraianthus (Edraianthus graminifolius), Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea) in bud, and a Matted Globularia (Globularia meridionalis).