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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Qinqiang Opera Drama Costume Connotation and Aesthetic
2nd International Conference on Education Technology, Management and Humanities Science (ETMHS 2016) Qinqiang opera drama costume connotation and aesthetic implication 1, a Yugang Chen 1Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Jiangxi, Nanchang, 330201 [email protected] Keywords: Qinqiang opera drama; Clothing; The cultural connotation Abstract. Qinqiang opera drama is one of the most exquisite stylized performance of traditional Chinese local operas. Qinqiang opera drama clothing, and other theatrical performances of traditional clothing similarity is exquisite and stylized, decorative effect as well as the audiences in the symbolization of abstract feelings, dramatic clothes in qinqiang opera drama very expressive aesthetics and art. Introduction Qinqiang opera drama as a traditional Chinese drama conductions, its dramatic clothes also represents the character appearance of traditional drama clothing, under the stylized costumes or wear shows of the respect and inheritance on traditional culture. Studies of qinqiang opera costume for one of the models, style characteristic, found that it contains the cultural connotation and aesthetic implication, the essence of traditional clothing, for the development of qinqiang opera drama has a positive and far-reaching significance. The formation of Qinqiang opera drama clothing Qin has been active in shanxi, gansu and the northwest region is the vast land of an ancient opera. The earliest qinqiang opera originated in shanxi guanzhong area, from the perspective of the change of type c, Qin Sheng, qin three stages. In the qianlong period reached for her best. From the point of geography, shanxi, gansu, ningxia, qinghai, xinjiang northwest five provinces close to geographical culture, so the ancient qin, with its wide sound big voice spoke quickly popular in this area. -
The Rights of War and Peace Book I
the rights of war and peace book i natural law and enlightenment classics Knud Haakonssen General Editor Hugo Grotius uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ii ii ii iinatural law and iienlightenment classics ii ii ii ii ii iiThe Rights of ii iiWar and Peace ii iibook i ii ii iiHugo Grotius ii ii ii iiEdited and with an Introduction by iiRichard Tuck ii iiFrom the edition by Jean Barbeyrac ii ii iiMajor Legal and Political Works of Hugo Grotius ii ii ii ii ii ii iiliberty fund ii iiIndianapolis ii uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu This book is published by Liberty Fund, Inc., a foundation established to encourage study of the ideal of a society of free and responsible individuals. The cuneiform inscription that serves as our logo and as the design motif for our endpapers is the earliest-known written appearance of the word “freedom” (amagi), or “liberty.” It is taken from a clay document written about 2300 b.c. in the Sumerian city-state of Lagash. ᭧ 2005 Liberty Fund, Inc. All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 09 08 07 06 05 c 54321 09 08 07 06 05 p 54321 Frontispiece: Portrait of Hugo de Groot by Michiel van Mierevelt, 1608; oil on panel; collection of Historical Museum Rotterdam, on loan from the Van der Mandele Stichting. Reproduced by permission. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Grotius, Hugo, 1583–1645. [De jure belli ac pacis libri tres. English] The rights of war and peace/Hugo Grotius; edited and with an introduction by Richard Tuck. p. cm.—(Natural law and enlightenment classics) “Major legal and political works of Hugo Grotius”—T.p., v. -
A Beginner's Guide to 16 Century German Women's Dress – How To
A Beginner’s Guide to 16 th Century German Women’s Dress – How to look like a Frau. There’s no doubt about it: the German woman had an individualistic way of dressing compared to that of her English or French counterparts. For the most part, there were no corsets or support skirts (farthingale), no outrageous headwear (that is, the gable hood) and a conservatism of fabric that would have had an English woman dying of shock. For the purposes of today’s discussion, I’ll be concentrating mainly on what is known as the Landsknecht style. The Landsknechts were professional soldiers, employed to recruit and train both local men and Dutch refugees to fight in the wars in the Low Countries - as Hans Holbein – Portrait of a woman in a Holland and Flanders are now called. These German- yellow dress speaking mercenaries and their women came from Bavaria, Tyrol, Swabia, and other parts of the Western Holy Roman Empire. Their brightly colored clothing was "flashy" even by the standards of their own time. Sumptuary laws which kept the English from wearing clothing above their station did not apply to Landsknechts. The Emperor Maximilian was infamously quoted as saying the lives of the Landsknechts were so miserable and short that they deserved so wear flashy stuff. As with any outfit from period, there are several layers to consider if you want to look like you just stepped out of a Cranach painting. Let’s go from the inside out, starting from the layer closest to the skin, the hemd (or chemise) to the various accessories that always add the finishing touches to any outfit. -
The Lining of Futou (Chinese Traditional Male Headwear) Is Called As Jinzi, Whose Produc
G Model CULHER-3209; No. of Pages 9 ARTICLE IN PRESS Journal of Cultural Heritage xxx (2017) xxx–xxx Available online at ScienceDirect www.sciencedirect.com Original article Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China a,b b,∗ b c b Huijuan Mai , Yimin Yang , Hongen Jiang , Bo Wang , Changsui Wang a Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100044, People’s Republic of China b Department of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, People’s Republic of China c Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region Museum, Ürümchi 830000, People’s Republic of China a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Article history: Headwear research is an integral part of costume study, which is regarded as a cultural symbol of human Received 22 September 2016 society. In China, the lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) is called as Jinzi, whose produc- Accepted 28 February 2017 tion information is little known. This paper focuses on the analysis of materials and manufacture of Jinzi, Available online xxx found in Astana Cemeteries (dated from about the 3rd to the 9th centuries C.E.), Turpan Basin, Xinjiang, China. The fibers of Jinzi were identified by FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), Light Micro- Keywords: scope Examination and Drying-Twist Test; while the black pigment was characterized through Raman Headwear Spectroscopy. -
Thank You So Much for Joining Us Today and a Big Thank You to Anne for Her Wonderful Talk (Beautiful Costume!) and for Coming Into Our Chatroom Today
Claire Ridgway23:59 Hi everyone! Thank you so much for joining us today and a big thank you to Anne for her wonderful talk (beautiful costume!) and for coming into our chatroom today. We're here to talk about Anne's talk on costume and social status, or her books and research. Welcome Anne! Anne Clinard Barnhill0:00 Yikes, Lorna, you are a brave woman! Sharon Conrad0:00 I loved riding. Anne Clinard Barnhill0:00 Thanks Claire. I'm excited to be here! Charlotte Donovan0:00 I’m excited to be here with everyone Claire Ridgway0:00 Anne, what got your interested in Tudor costume in particular? ADMIN Tim0:01 Can I ask, Anne, where do you wear your costume? Renaissance fairs? Anne Clinard Barnhill0:01 Well, I've always loved them. And when I got my book contract, I knew I had the perfect excuse to have one made. Charlotte Donovan0:01 Hi Lorna ! Anne Clinard Barnhill0:02 Tim, I wear it to give talks at libraries, civic clubs, and yes, I do go to the NC Ren Faire in CHarlotte, NC. It's great fun! Lorna Wanstall0:02 I can answer how Anne got into writing historical novels.. it was actually Alison Weir Anne Clinard Barnhill0:02 Do any of you have a Tudor outfit? Libby0:02 In your talk it was so fascinating to see you wearing your beautiful costume as you explained everything. Anne Clinard Barnhill0:02 Ha! Yes, I do love her, Lorna. Charlotte Donovan0:02 I wish I had a Tudor outfit to wear :’) Anne Clinard Barnhill0:03 Thanks, Libby and welcome! I love talking about it. -
Spartan Protest on 574 Less San Jose State C Liege Seventh St
Professor Hits 'Specific Job' Education Here By ELAINE KEN los 'The college graduate should be and to lecturing. "the deadliest state college is fo329. reported as IIT are making positiye This college puts too lath: eni- more than just a 'teacher, an en- of all teaching methods." I .,well Pratt, public relation efforts to train students tor phasis on the liberal arts, a stu- gineer. or a policeman ... I don't He feels a better was is to re- director. citizenship. as %%oil a to, a par- dent charged in Wednesday's object to accountants with col- quire students to read what the .When asked if the collcL:c ticular job." "Thrust and Parry" column. lege degrees: but I do object to treat thinkers have said about growth indicated it was becoming And Dr. Dean R. Cresap, assist- granting degrees to men qualified ideals and problems. Then. in a better school. Dr. Cresap re- Students and iaculty mends 1. ant professor of political science, only as accountants." small groups they would discuss torted, "size is not synonymous on the campus. Dr t'vesap be- agrees with him. The tall, blue-eyed assistant pro- what they have read and form with excellence." lieves. want a stronger etau 'ra I -Students should be trained fessor admitted there were prob- their own opinions. Reed college He believes San Jose State col- education program Ile calls this as human beings and menibers lems involved in giving students in Portland. Ore, has abandoned lege has an anft-cultural tradition "a health) sign of a free society." said Dr. -
Byzantine Garden Culture
Byzantine Garden Culture Byzantine Garden Culture edited by Antony Littlewood, Henry Maguire, and Joachim Wolschke-Bulmahn Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection Washington, D.C. © 2002 Dumbarton Oaks Trustees for Harvard University Washington, D.C. All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Byzantine garden culture / edited by Antony Littlewood, Henry Maguire and Joachim Wolschke- Bulmahn. p. cm. Papers presented at a colloquium in November 1996 at Dumbarton Oaks. Includes bibliographical references (p. ) ISBN 0-88402-280-3 (alk. paper) 1. Gardens, Byzantine—Byzantine Empire—History—Congresses. 2. Byzantine Empire— Civilization—Congresses. I. Littlewood, Antony Robert. II. Maguire, Henry, 1943– III. Wolschke- Bulmahn, Joachim. SB457.547 .B97 2001 712'.09495—dc21 00-060020 To the memory of Robert Browning Contents Preface ix List of Abbreviations xi The Study of Byzantine Gardens: Some Questions and Observations from a Garden Historian 1 Joachim Wolschke-Bulmahn The Scholarship of Byzantine Gardens 13 Antony Littlewood Paradise Withdrawn 23 Henry Maguire Byzantine Monastic Horticulture: The Textual Evidence 37 Alice-Mary Talbot Wild Animals in the Byzantine Park 69 Nancy P. Sevcenko Byzantine Gardens and Horticulture in the Late Byzantine Period, 1204–1453: The Secular Sources 87 Costas N. Constantinides Theodore Hyrtakenos’ Description of the Garden of St. Anna and the Ekphrasis of Gardens 105 Mary-Lyon Dolezal and Maria Mavroudi Khpopoii?a: Garden Making and Garden Culture in the Geoponika 159 Robert Rodgers Herbs of the Field and Herbs of the Garden in Byzantine Medicinal Pharmacy 177 John Scarborough The Vienna Dioskorides and Anicia Juliana 189 Leslie Brubaker viii Contents Possible Future Directions 215 Antony Littlewood Bibliography 231 General Index 237 Index of Greek Words 260 Preface It is with great pleasure that we welcome the reader to this, the first volume ever put together on the subject of Byzantine gardens. -
School Transfer Proposed and Mrs
; Papa 10 RAHWAY NEWS-RECORD. Thurs., August 13, 1964 the first week and went to Wild- Mrs. Helen Rawling of Green- RA:;WAY PUBLIC LIBRARY wood and Cape May the sec-ville, and camped at her bunga- Lynn Warburton Married SEMINARY AVE ond week. Neighbors of the low at Rainbow Lake. Mrs Class of 1948s Boleys, Mrs. Helen Ruiz, and RAHWAY tt-d 8-T?- C Town Talk Rawling works for the Green- To Lt.^friHiam Brennan her son, Tom, took care of the ville Daily News. Boley's dog, Augie, while they Mr. and Mrs. William G. Raymond; Warburton, of Alex- ;;. $;.';.^.:-»: First Reunion By Florence Mershon Brennan of 940 Jaqiies Ave.,andria, Va. were away.. The Eggers family also visited have returned from Annapolis, Children of the city have been • • • the Rev. and Mrs. Charles Has- The ceremony was performed ' Plans Started Md., where they attended the in St. Andrew's Catholic Chapel busy with worthwhile projects Mr. and Mrs.- Henry L. Siner tie of Gaylord at their summer ::<••••<$*: A marriage of their son, Lt. At a meeting held on Thurs- during the past week. Three of 1196 Stone St. and Mrs. Sin- on the grounds of the 'United bungalow in Mackinac City for a (J. G.) William J. Brennan to day at the home of Mrs. Kitty carnivals have been held to er's mother, Mrs. Ellen Dan- States Naval Academy, and waji weekend. The Rev. Mr. Hastie Miss' Lynn Rae Warburton, followed by a reception at the Simmons Wight; 918 Stone St., raise funds for the Kennedy dignac of Elizabeth, gave a par- RAHWAY NEWS-RECORD is pastor of the Congregational daughter of Mr. -
The Final Days of Anne Boleyn: Why Did She Die?
The final days of Anne Boleyn: why did she die? On 19 May 1536, Queen Anne Boleyn, second wife of King Henry VIII, was executed by beheading within the confines of the Tower of London. She’d been queen for just three years. Here, Claire Ridgway, creator of The Anne Boleyn Files website, considers Anne’s final moments and reveals how the valiant queen was said to have had “much joy and pleasure in death” Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII’s second wife, was found guilty of high treason by a jury of her peers in the king’s hall at the Tower on 15 May 1536. She was executed by decapitation on 19 May 1536 – and is thought to have been around 35 years old at the time. Queen Anne had been charged with having relationships with five courtiers, including her brother, George Boleyn (aka Lord Rochford), and the king’s good friend and groom of the stool, Sir Henry Norris. According to the indictments, not only had she slept with these men (as a result of her “frail and carnal appetites”), but she had also conspired with them to kill her husband, the king. Guilty or not guilty: why did Anne Boleyn have to die? The dates of her alleged crimes ran from October 1533 to January 1536, but, as the late historian Eric Ives has pointed out, three-quarters of the dates mentioned in the indictments do not make sense for either Anne or the accused man; Anne was not present at the places at the times stated. -
Pictures, Furniture, Tribal, Asian and European Works of Art Wednesday 12 June 2013 Oxford
Bonhams Banbury Road, Shipton on cherwell, Kidlington Oxford OX5 1JH +44 (0) 1865 853 640 +44 (0) 1865 372 722 fax 20694 Pictures, Furniture, Tribal, Asian & European Works of Art, of Works Asian & European Tribal, Furniture, Pictures, 12 June 2013, Oxford 12 June 2013, Pictures, Furniture, Tribal, Asian and European Works of Art Wednesday 12 June 2013 Oxford Pictures, Furniture, Tribal, Asian & European Works of Art Wednesday 12 June 2013 at 11am Oxford Bonhams Enquiries Important notice to all buyers Banbury Road, Shipton on Cherwell, Furniture, Carpets & Please note in this catalogue there Kidlington Works of Art is no reference in the catalogue Oxford OX5 1JH Michael Wynell-Mayow description of any prescence of www.bonhams.com [email protected] damage, repair or restoration. Condition reports on any lot are Viewing Furniture and Works of Art available by request from the Saturday 8 June 9am to 12pm Simon Davies department. In providing condition Monday 10 June 9am to 5pm [email protected] reports we do not guarantee or Tuesday 11 June 9am to 5pm imply that there are no other Wednesday 12 June 9am to 11am Toby Messenger defects present, which have not [email protected] been mentioned. Please see the Bids full conditions of sale printed in +44 (0) 20 7447 7448 Clocks this catalogue. +44 (0) 20 7447 7401 fax Michael Welch To bid via the internet please visit www.bonhams.com [email protected] Please see page 2 for bidder Please provide details of the lots Pictures information including after-sale on which you wish to place bids Alicia Rogers collection and shipment at least 24 hours prior to the sale. -
Archilochus: First Poet After Homer
Fordham University DigitalResearch@Fordham Hermeneutic and Phenomenological Research Resources Philosophies of Science 2002 Archilochus: First Poet After Homer William Harris Middlebury College Follow this and additional works at: https://fordham.bepress.com/phil_research Part of the Classical Literature and Philology Commons Recommended Citation Harris, William, "Archilochus: First Poet After Homer" (2002). Research Resources. 48. https://fordham.bepress.com/phil_research/48 This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the Hermeneutic and Phenomenological Philosophies of Science at DigitalResearch@Fordham. It has been accepted for inclusion in Research Resources by an authorized administrator of DigitalResearch@Fordham. For more information, please contact [email protected], [email protected]. Archilochus First Poet after Homer ARCILOCOU TA APOSPASMATA William Harris Prof. Emeritus Classics Middlebury College 1 Archilochus was known in ancient Greece, to everyone who knew anything about literature, as the first poet after Homer and Hesiod. To an educated Greek in the Fourth Century A.D. it would have seemed inexplicable to have to explain in a preface to the poems of Archilochus, who this famous poet was, when and where he lived and what kind of verse he wrote. Although no more precise about exact dates than we are, he would have placed Homer about four hundred years after the Trojan War, Hesiod somewhat later, and Archilochus in the time of Gyges, about or after 480 B.C., as we know from the Parian Marble. Archilochus' volumes were cur- rently available to him, and he would hardly have thought that this author and Hipponax and Sappho, let alone a hundred others, would have virtually disappeared in the next seven hundred years.