PINAULT: GUCCI’S WORTH IT/2 SOURCING HORIZONS/9-21 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 18, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The Graduate NEW YORK — The pomp, circumstance and senior anxiety are over and it’s time to find a job. For the past few weeks, WWD has been attending fashion shows featuring student work from design schools around the country, and we’ve found that the future is indeed bright for the industry. Here, from Ashleigh Verrier, one of two designers of the year at Parsons School of Design, a velveteen coat, satin skirt and chiffon blouse. An intern at Proenza Schouler, she says of her post-grad plans, “I’d love to start my own company but I know that I have to respect the necessary evolution to get there.” For more from the student runways, see pages 6 and 7.

Red Lights Flashing: Kmart Net Hits $93M, But Hazards Lie Ahead By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — When it comes to Kmart, earnings are better than sales — at least to Wall Street. Well, that’s true for now before gas prices head toward $3 per gallon and potentially keep strapped shoppers out of Kmart — and perhaps Wal-Mart, Target and other stores, too. Despite a steep decline in same-store and total sales, investors keyed in on Kmart Holding Corp.’s second consecutive quarter of profits. Shares of the discount retailer jumped 9.8 percent from the prior close to end Monday at See Kmart, Page24 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 WWDTUESDAY Pinault Defends Gucci Price Ready-to-Wear/Textiles GENERAL MIAMI — François-Henri Pi- times revenues, according to sev- Despite a steep decline in same-store and total sales, investors keyed in nault, chairman of the Artemis eral analysts. on Kmart’s second consecutive profitable quarter to boost its stock. Group, doesn’t think he over- In a Securities and Exchange 1 paid for Gucci Group — even at Commission filing last month, François-Henri Pinault, chairman of the Artemis Group, doesn’t think he $9 billion. Gucci told shareholders the in- 2 overpaid for Gucci Group, even at $9 billion, and is bullish on its future. During a question-and-an- dependent directors found the Limited Brands Inc. posted slightly weaker earnings for the first quarter as swer session at last week’s offer price “was fair from a fi- rising sales were nullified by lower margins and higher costs. WWD Beauty CEO Summit here, nancial point of view to the pub- 2 Pinault insisted the price was a lic shareholders as a whole.” Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz chalked up $700,000 in fall orders reasonable one and Artemis The company said in the fil- 3 during a trunk show at Barneys in Beverly Hills, a record for the store. didn’t overpay. ing that “there have been no RTW: Art galleries, flea markets and museums are among the spots that “Well, you could say $9 billion, other firm offers by third parties but I would prefer 7.2 billion to acquire Gucci within the last 22 designers are showing their wares to distinguish themselves from the pack. euros,” Pinault said. “Of course, two years with which to compare Krizia signed a seven-year licensing pact with Italian watchmaker Alvea to it’s a very fair price. When you the offer.” 23 produce and distribute Krizia-branded watch lines for women and men. consider the real growth poten- The independent directors tial of the brands inside the told Gucci’s management they Gucci Group, it’s a really fair were of “the view that the best EYE price. It’s also very consistent measure of Gucci’s value would The actresses wore white at the Cannes Film Festival, which runs through with the industry valuation mul- be based on the continuing opera- 4 Sunday…Rachel McAdams’ “hallelujah moments”…a seaside scoop. tiple right now, so yes, I would do tion of Gucci as a going concern.” it over again.” That means the book value or Pinault is bullish about Guc- the liquidation value is not “a FASHION ci’s prospects, saying that “for the meaningful measure of the fair There’s no place like a fashion school to spawn design talent, as evidenced next three to four years, the po- market value of the shares,” the 6 by the recent spate of student runway shows. tential growth of the Gucci Group firm said in the SEC filing, will be to deliver double-digit growth for [Pinault-Printemps- Sourcing Horizons appears as a special section on pages 9-21. Redoute, Gucci’s parent], I’m There won’t be big acquisitions in the sure of that. There won’t be big “ Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 acquisitions in the next three to next three to four years.…We have the four years. You know, we have the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is potential to almost double the potential to almost double the size of size of the Gucci Group within [email protected], using the individual’s name. the next three to five years — in- the Gucci Group within the next three WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 ternal growth.” FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. to five years — internal growth. VOLUME 187, NO. 104. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Earlier this month, Gucci issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three Group NV forecast revenues to — François-Henri Pinault, Artemis” Group additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 grow at a double-digit pace for West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, the next two years combined. In At these projections, the valu- adding there were no appraisal Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior fiscal 2005, revenues are forecast ation multiple of Gucci’s sale or liquidation value sought in Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- to climb 12.1 percent to 3.22 bil- price, in euros, is about three setting the offer price of $85.52 a President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration lion euros, or $3.89 billion, while times revenues. Given current share, which “is significantly in No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. fiscal 2006 revenues should in- market conditions, valuation excess of Gucci’s net book value POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. crease 9.6 percent to 3.54 billion multiples in the high-end seg- per share of $47.25 at Jan. 31, FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is euros, or $4.27 billion. ment vary from two to three 2003,” the company said. required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Margins, Costs Take Toll on Limited Net MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE By Ross Tucker ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. NEW YORK — Limited Brands Inc. posted slightly weaker earnings for the first quarter as rising sales were nullified by lower margins and higher costs. For the period ended May 1, the Columbus, In Brief Ohio-based specialty conglomerate said earnings retreated 0.9 percent to $96.6 million, or 19 cents a diluted share, compared with earnings of $97.5 ● L.L. BEAN’S BEEF: L.L. Bean on Monday said it filed four million, or 19 cents, in the year-ago period. separate complaints — including one each against retailers The company’s sale of New York & Co. in Nordstrom and J.C. Penney — in a Maine federal district court November of 2002 continued to impact results. alleging trademark infringement in connection with pop-up ad- During the quarter, the company recognized a one- vertising on the catalogue firm’s Web site. The firm said that time pretax gain of $44.9 million, or 6 cents a share, the offending companies use software that had a “spyware” stemming from the early repayment of a $75 million component that tracked a user’s online activity. Mary Lou subordinated note by New York & Co. Kelley, L.L. Bean’s vice president of e-commerce, said in a Excluding the extraordinary gain, earnings statement that it was bad enough that companies were poach- came in at $67.8 million, or 13 cents a share. ing consumer activity at the Bean Web site and redirecting it to Sales for the quarter increased 7.4 percent to themselves, but worse was giving the impression that Bean au- $1.98 billion from $1.84 billion. thorized such activity. A spokeswoman for Nordstrom declined However, apparel sales from its Express and Victoria’s Secret saw sales increase 14.9 percent. comment because the company hasn’t been served yet. A Limited stores slid 2.5 percent to $600.1 million com- to be more evident in [the second half of the year].” spokeswoman for J.C. Penney did not return a phone call for pared with $615.6 million in the year-ago quarter. General, administrative and store operating ex- comment. “Women’s results were disappointing in the penses came in at $556.3 million, an 80 point basis quarter,” said Tom Katzenmeyer, vice president of point increase to 28.1 percent of sales compared ● LIZ’S BAGGAGE: Liz Claiborne Inc. said Monday it reached an investor relations, during the company confer- with 27.3 percent of sales in the year-ago period. agreement in principle with Badanco Enterprises Inc. to pro- ence call. “Growth in the wear-to-work category, The company also announced its board of direc- duce Liz Claiborne and Claiborne-branded luggage. The collec- driven by pants, was more than offset by declines tors had approved the additional repurchase of tions will be introduced to the trade in fall and in stores by early in other categories, particularly in knit tops.” $100 million worth of shares of common stock. In next year. “Licensing our brands is a key aspect of our growth Keeping results afloat for the quarter was March, the company completed a $1 billion repur- strategy, enabling us to extend both Liz Claiborne and Victoria’s Secret, with sales increasing 14.9 percent chase program of its common stock. Claiborne’s presence in the market,” Barbara J. Friedman, pres- to $908.8 million from $791.3 million and a compa- Rising expenses will be a concern going forward, ident of licensing, said in a statement. rable-store sales gain of 15 percent. “Our sales per- as the company moves to overhaul its information formance was primarily driven by the bra catego- technology capabilities over the next several years. ry,” said Grace Nichols, president and chief execu- According to Leonard Schlesinger, vice chairman tive officer of Victoria’s Secret. and chief operating officer, the firm expects to The company’s Bath & Body Works segment spend $50 million to $60 million during 2004 on saw sales advance 6.4 percent to $341.9 million what it is referring to as Project Insight. “At this Correction from $321.4 million. point, it’s way too premature to project the total cost The Nike product that appeared on page 11 Thursday was a In a research report following the call, SG Cowen of the project beyond that,” said Schlesinger, who Swift Suit. It was incorrectly identified in a caption. Also, Nike’s analyst Lauren Cooks Levitan said, “We expect the went on to say that the company had already hired thermoregulation systems for the Olympics include Sphere, Zone potential margin benefit of the company’s shift to- five senior executives from outside the company to Venting and Dri-FIT. ward a more full-price strategy in the apparel brands lead the operation. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 3

Nancy Davis and Tommy Lanvin’s Elbaz Attracts Stars in Hollywood Hilfiger

By Rose Apodaca Jones LOS ANGELES — Even in this jaded town of bold-face celebrities, there seems to be little that beats a personal appearance by a rising star like Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz. Elbaz was on his first visit here last week since joining the French house in fall 2001, and chalked up $700,000 in fall orders for Lanvin during a trunk show Thursday and Friday at Barneys New York. That marked a record for the Carmen Electra (with Beverly Hills flagship, surpassing a high of $300,000 for a Montel Williams’ puppy) designer trunk show at the door last month by Emanuel and Dave Navarro.

PHOTOS BY RAY MICKSHAW/WIREIMAGE AND MICHAEL CAULFIED/ WIREIMAGE AND MICHAEL CAULFIED/ MICKSHAW/WIREIMAGE RAY PHOTOS BY Ungaro ready-to-wear designer Giambattista Valli. While Lanvin has announced it would get out of the watch business and seek a license for its perfumes in an effort to To mmy’s Glam Slam stem losses of $26.8 million in 2003 on sales of $97.6 mil- lion, women’s ready-to-wear sales at the 115-year-old Paris LOS ANGELES — “We’ll do whatever it takes from rock ’n’ house have increased tenfold since Elbaz signed on, now roll, celebrities and fashion to auctions and calling in every accounting for 16 percent of total sales. favor I’m owed,” said Tommy Hilfiger, co-chair along with Last week’s numbers were helped by the critically acclaimed philanthropist Nancy Davis of the 11th annual Race to collection, enjoyed during a gala at the Wilshire Boulevard store Erase MS benefit Friday night. May 12 by 400 guests, including co-hosts Kelly Lynch and Held at the Westin Century Plaza Hotel here, the gala Anjelica Huston, Calista Flockhart, Kristin Davis, Sheryl Crow, was attended by more than 1,200 people and raised $2.5 Elizabeth Wiatt, Jacqui Getty and Jaime Tisch. million for the Nancy Davis Foundation for Multiple To die-hard fans such as Chloë Sevigny, Elbaz’s appeal Sclerosis. Like Davis, Hilfiger’s sister has MS, and the lies in his thoughtful, old-school approach to the craft of designer works closely with Davis in planning every dressmaking over the flash and fame sought by many design- detail of the event. ers caught in the modern cult of celebrity. “We have created something unusual and exciting that “He’s my favorite, he’s so sincere,” said Sevigny, who people look forward to every year. It’s such a personal arrived swathed in a pumpkin charmeuse dress. “For evening- mission for Nancy and I that we would never let it be a wear, no one compares to his quality and sophistication. If I flop,” Hilfiger said. “Ultimately, our goal is to raise could wear him every night I would.” Chloë Sevigny in Lanvin. enough money to find the cure for MS and that is getting The soft-spoken designer isn’t wont to do the cocktail cir- PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY closer to being a reality.” cuit out of self-promotion. “He’s so charming, so humble. For the past 10 years, Davis has hosted one of Los That’s what I love about him,” said China Chow. Angeles’ most successful annual benefits, but she still suf- Elbaz preferred his friend, Barneys creative director Simon fers from the number one party-throwing fear. “I always Doonan, to reprise his turn as a cheeky fashion commentator think nobody is going to show up,” said pregnant-with- during the presentation, which he delivered with aplomb. twins Davis. “I’m going to have planned this whole thing Doonan and his team also emptied the second floor of its and I’ll walk into an empty ballroom.” designer stock, transforming the space into a lush Parisian Her worries were unfounded. dinner club illuminated only by oversize antique candelabras The event — attended by Amy Brenneman, Lara Flynn atop dozens of long tables. The floor was returned to its Boyle, Jamie-Lynn DiScala, Molly Sims, Michael Chiklis working state by morning, in time for the trunk show. and Anjelica Huston — started with cocktails and an auc- Elbaz overcame his shyness for the gala, walking the red tion of items that included gift certificates to Burberry carpet and posing for photographers throughout the night and Barneys New York, Super Bowl 2005 tickets and a because the event benefited The Rape Treatment Center, the walk-on part on “CSI.” Competition was fierce for the Santa Monica, Calif., nonprofit organization of the UCLA English bulldog puppy, which eventually went home with Medical Center. Montel Williams for $17,000. He explained, “I fell in love His presence proved good for charity and business. The the minute I saw him. We gladly made room at our table event raised $40,000 for the treatment center. Thursday’s for one more.” day-long trunk show alone, with Elbaz’s personal appearance, The Tommy Hilfiger fashion show was inspired by the produced orders of $500,000, beginning with an 8 a.m. visit evening’s theme — GlamRock to Erase MS. Hilfiger, by Demi Moore. Anjelica Huston and Alber Elbaz is flanked by Calista decked out in his own designs and a vintage tie, said, “I know we have a lot of great women wearing our clothes Simon Doonan Flockhart and Kristin Davis. “This is a chance to see H in its most glam form. I made and I’m very, very happy,” Elbaz said some 12 hours before some new things and a lot of pieces are items we made for the frenzy, over coffee on Barneys’ balcony looking out onto “There is something more secure about women today,” he celebrities that were never available in the store because the Hollywood hills. “Whether they are famous or not doesn’t said. “Women’s lives are so round. Fashion is not as important they were too funky or too expensive.” matter. I want to work with people. Not for them and not as it used to be in that sense. It’s more about the person. “The Apprentice” runner-up Kwame Jackson, one of under them. When you run after stars and try to get into the Women today have a variety of needs. I’m actually spending several celebrities striking a pose in the show, wasn’t con- system [of dressing celebrities] it’s very hard. We don’t have more time at the store [in Paris]. I’m selling. I’m a very shy vinced he was funky enough for the gold leather pants he the means to do that. I am not willing to do it.” person, but when I am next to my clothes I’m not shy any- was asked to wear. “They’re hard to walk in. I’ll settle for Luckily for Elbaz, he has influential friends who are. Sevigny more. At the end of the day what I love the most about my being able to breathe. At least if I fall or look dumb, I’ll has followed his career from Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche to work is the human touch.” know it was for a good cause.” Lanvin, where Elbaz arrived a year after it was acquired from That “human” factor is driving the obsession for vintage Other famous folk-turned-models included beauty monolith L’Oréal by a venture capitalist group led by right now, he said. Earlier in the week, the Lanvin team was “Bachelorette” Meredith Phillips and fiancé Ian McKee, Taiwan publishing tycoon Shaw-Lan Wang. Other award show- feted by vintage guru Cameron Silver at his restored RM Kimberly Stewart, Henry Simmons, Garcelle Beauvais- bound pals — Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts and Maggie Shindler-designed home. Sevigny, Getty, Lynch and her hus- Nilon, Jordana Brewster, Nicole Richie and Mischa Gyllenhaal — also champion their friend on red carpets from band-producer Mitch Glazer, publishers Lisa Eisner and Barton, who’s dating Brandon Davis, son of Nancy Davis. here to London. Roman Alonso, stylist Arianne Phillips and artist Liz Goldwyn Cyndi Lauper got the crowd out of its seats with a com- Elbaz admitted his guilty pleasure of watching the pre- were among the guests at the private dinner. bination of her greatest hits, standards like “At Last” and shows, particularly their over-the-top commentators. “I won’t In vintage, Elbaz said, “There is this kind of individuality. wild antics like climbing on top of the piano and sere- miss them for anything,’’ he said. “At the same time, I’m There is an emotion there that is maybe not existing today in nading the wait staff. Hilfiger requested “Girls Just thinking ‘You’ve done a movie that has done a billion dollars a lot of clothes. I don’t try to kill Cameron’s business, but I’m Wanna Have Fun” and when the singer obliged, he at the box office, you’re talented and you’re being asked trying to go back to the essence of that,” he said in reference jumped on stage to shake his groove thing with Harry about who you borrowed the jewelry from or who gave you the to peers who merchandise more than design. Hamlin and Lisa Rinna. Thora Birch said, “I was a girl dress?’ It is embarrassing. It should be about who you are. If Energized by his trip, Elbaz rushed home late Thursday to who just wanted to have fun when I was a kid, and it’s you look great, that’s fabulous, too.” prepare for his editorial preview June 20. He is hesitant to kitschy to see her now.” That speaks to the heart of the Lanvin woman, as Elbaz say he’s finally comfortable in his recent success. David Lee Roth, who dueted with Natalie Cole, closed considers ways of interpreting shapes with as few seams as “I always said that I want to be in fashion like another out the evening with his former chart toppers. Ray Romano possible and, in the case of fall, dresses that can transform eight, nine, maybe 10 years max, and then leave because was impressed. “I’ve gotten to do a lot of cool things in life into more than one look. It’s a tension in contrasts that rep- there is a moment when you are connected to the people but tonight I got to tell a room full of men in suits to give it resents what is modern for Elbaz, including merging the fem- that you do the best work. The moment you are not connect- up for David Lee Roth. This is going on my list.” inine with the feminist. ed anymore, it will be time to move on.” — Carrie Bell

Street. The store, which will open in August, barring any will be a modern emporium of necessities,” Nolan said. “Having construction delays, will be a traditional-looking space in a shop is about having ideas.” Fashion Scoops keeping with the neighborhood’s vintage town houses and cobblestone streets. “I wanted it to look like a shop that’s BARE ESSENTIALS: Lucy Sykes isn’t letting her nine-month-old NOLAN’S STORE FRONT: When he decided to open his first been there forever,” said Nolan, who hired residential designer son slow her down. The Marie Claire style director will host a tea store, Charles Nolan had his heart set on the Meatpacking Waldo Maffei to draw up the plans. The store will showcase party and then a cocktail hour today at Soho House. But it won’t District. After looking at real estate for almost a year, he Nolan’s signature collection, which includes everything from T- be a traditional get-together. Designer Helena Bodas will be finally signed a lease on Friday for an 1,800-square-foot shirts to evening gowns. He’ll also sell other things, like toys for encouraging Sally Albemarle, Fabiola Beracasa and Jazz Johnson space at 30 Gansevoort Street on the corner of Hudson kids, antique books, ribbons by the yard and picture frames. “It to have personal fittings for Bodas lingerie and pajamas. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 Bright Lights

CANNES — It’s wedding season and, perhaps taking a cue, the women have been wearing white at the Cannes Film Festival, which opened last week and runs through Sunday. Cameron Diaz strolled the red carpet for the eye® premiere of “Shrek 2” in Louis Vuitton; Sofia Coppola celebrated the opening night’s showing of Pedro Almodovar’s “Bad Education” in Chloé and Jennifer Aniston stood by her man, Brad Pitt, at the gala premiere of “Troy” in Atelier Versace. Meanwhile, Pitt’s co-star, Diane Kruger, took the wedding cake: a baby blue tiered Chanel gown. Penélope Cruz got into the act in an off white, off-the-shoulder cocktail dress by Christian Dior accessorized with a white beret. Cruz has gotten rave reviews for her new film, “Non ti muovere” (“Don’t Move”), in which she stars as an ungainly Albanian girl who haunts the memory of a doctor with whom she had a brief encounter. Though critics have compared her performance to Charlize Theron’s in “Monster,” she showed up in Cannes looking incredibly chic. Even so, Cruz couldn’t hitch a ride: Apparently, she walked to her own premiere, without a car or an entourage. That’s how bad the traffic is. Though most of these actresses are loaned their clothes — Elizabeth Hurley and Uma Thurman have been trotting around in Dior and Angelina Jolie wore a custom-made Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo to the “Shrek 2” premiere — Kyra Sedgwick, in town with husband Kevin Bacon for “The Woodsman,” buys them herself. “Don’t you just love that?” Sedgwick said Sunday at a candlelit dinner Diane Sofia for the movie, hosted by Motorola, Kruger in Coppola in the elegant white building at 2 Chanel. in Chloé. Croisette. “I’m having the best time changing 10 times a day.” She switched from a Dolce & Gabbana number to a Vera Wang gown to the chiffon Alexander McQueen blouse Cameron Penélope and tuxedo pants she donned for Diaz in Cruz in that night. Diaz in Cruz in The next stop that evening was Jennifer Aniston in Louis Christian the “Kill Bill Vol. 2” post-party, Alberta Ferretti. VVuuitton.itton. Dior. which started at midnight and took place at La Baoli, sponsored by the yet-to-open London club Kabaret Prophecy. Dennis Quaid, Quentin Tarantino, ■ AT SEA WITH THE VON Coppola and Vincent Perez were among the throng, but FURSTENBERGS: Since the Thurman and Daryl Hannah didn’t show up until 2:30 a.m. EYE SCOOP opening of her Paris store has The late night hours don’t seem to bother anyone in been delayed until September, Diane von Furstenberg decided to Cannes, and — believe it or not — there was even a post- cruise down the Riviera with Barry Diller and her son, Alex, aboard post “Kill Bill” party at Thierry Klemeniuk’s Villa Man Ray Diller’s yacht, the Mikado. While in Cannes, von Furstenberg that began at 2 a.m. None of the cast managed to make it. hosted an impromptu summer 2004 fashion show on the rooftop There was only Adrien Brody, reprising his role as deck of the Synergy House overlooking the Palais and the beach. ubiquitous party-boy from last year’s festival, though this “I thought, why not just stop here for the weekend?” she sighed. year he had an entourage in tow. Diller wasn’t planning any work in the South of France. “I As for Sofia and Quentin, their ambiguous coupling came here for her,” the Internet mogul explained. “We’re just continues. Since showing up at the opening ceremony playing here. And I can rest on the way home — I’ll have eight premiere of “Bad Education” arm in arm, they’ve also been hours on the plane!” seen at the “Kill Bill” after party, holding court in separate Alex, who’s staying at the Hotel du Cap, plans to take white VIP tents. Coppola was off to vacation with friends in command of the ship once his mother heads home. “My kids are Provence. Tarantino is sticking around in Cannes. flying down from London and we’re going to have a little vacation “This year has been a whirlwind,” said a representative on the Riviera. It’s going to be great,” he said, looking pretty for Coppola. “It’s time for her to put her feet up.” happy to be surrounded by models in the meantime. — Marcy Medina

counters Wilson and Vaughan when they crash her sister’s wedding. Of her co-stars, McAdams says, “They ad lib, and they come up with these wild things, and you just have to kind of run with it. We’re filming a bike riding scene tomorrow. I picture The Rachel Papers someone going headfirst into the marsh.” Though McAdams has been landing roles as the rich girl — she plays the beautiful EASTON, Md. — To hear actress Rachel McAdams tell it, her career so far has had blond Regina George, Lindsay Lohan’s archrival in “Mean Girls” — her own upbringing its share of what she calls “hallelujah moments.” was quite different. Raised outside Toronto by her mother, a nurse, and her father, a There was the moment when the star of the upcoming World War II period ro- mover, she fell in love with Shakespeare at 13 while attending a summer theater camp. mance “The Notebook” nailed her audition opposite Ryan Gosling for the film’s Studying theater during college, she booked her first film, the Canadian-Italian “My lead role as Allie Hamilton, a Southern debutante wild Name is Tanino,” during spring break, and headed to Italy on child. “I felt pumped full of some drug. I certainly wasn’t her first plane ride shortly after graduation. She was even on Earth,” she recalls. “I thought, ‘They’re never going to nominated for a Genie, the Canadian Oscar, for her supporting give this to me. I’m nobody.’” role in the indie film “Perfect Pie,” but still deemed “She was, by far, the greenest actress we auditioned,” Hollywood impenetrable. says the film’s producer, Mark Johnson, adding that 12 “I thought I would refuse to be part of it,” she says. “I other, more-established actresses were up for the part. “But thought, ‘I’m just going to do theater, and be poor and it will she was unquestionably the most appropriate and surpris- be really romantic.’” ing. We all just said, ‘Oh my God, this girl is really good.’ ” On her first trip to L.A., she auditioned for a Nancy Then there was the moment during filming when the Drew pilot. “I didn’t get it and I was devastated,” she says. 25-year-old, who attended the conservatory at Toronto’s “I thought I’d blown my only chance.” On a whim, she audi- Yo rk University, met actor and playwright Sam Shepard. tioned for “The Hot Chick” with Rob Schneider, and she “I was knee-deep in mud in South Carolina, and so was got the part. he. We just had a normal conversation,” she says. “I The buzz surrounding her performance in “The mean, I studied him a lot at university. And just to be in Notebook” has reached a steady thrum. Critics have de- front of this man, who’s playing my boyfriend’s dad, it scribed her as a “silver-screen star in the making,” and her was one of those things you could never even imagine performance has been described as a “revelation.” happening to you.” Since picking up a Hollywood-style paycheck, McAdams Now perched on a couch in the lobby of a picturesque, says she’s splurged on travel. She backpacked through white clapboard resort that overlooks the Chesapeake Bay, Australia and Costa Rica, squired her family to Mexico for the tiny thespian is enjoying more good fortune: a day off the holidays, and plans to fly them out to L.A. for the pre- from shooting her next film, “Wedding Crashers,” a roman- miere of “The Notebook” next week. tic comedy opposite Owen Wilson and Vince Vaughan. Her only other indulgence includes one very special pink Fresh from a swim in the pool, she arrives with her dark vintage dress, which she will wear to walk the red carpet. wet hair slicked into a bun, wearing jeans and a pair of “Normally I pick something the day before,” McAdams floppy white hotel slippers. A giant white wedding tent says shyly of the dress, which she purchased after falling in from the previous day’s shooting looms in a distant field. love with it at a photo shoot. “But I figured this was one of In the film, she plays the bridesmaid daughter of the Rachel McAdams in “The Notebook.” those moments where I better think ahead.” Secretary of the Treasury (Christopher Walken) who en- — Alison Burwell COPPOLA, ANISTON AND CRUZ BY WIREIMAGE; DIAZ AND KRUGER BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; FILM STILL COURTESY OF NEW LINE CINEMA STEPHANE FEUGERE; FILM STILL COURTESY COPPOLA, WIREIMAGE; DIAZ AND KRUGER BY ANISTON AND CRUZ BY WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 5 Letter From Madrid MADRID — The Spanish capital is gearing Romanones. Pertegaz was the first Spanish designer to by Alexia of Greece, a royal cousin and daughter of up for what the press here calls “the steel sell to the U.S. — to Lord & Taylor in 1964. Pertegaz did King Constantine. The king is Sofia’s brother, so you wedding.” not return calls seeking comment. better believe the former Greek royal family will be on eye® Saturday’s nuptials of Crown Prince The groom will dress in a navy blue military uni- hand — including the U.S.-based Princess Marie- Felipe de Borbón, Prince of Asturias, and form with antique gold trim by royal tailor Cecilio Chantal and her husband, Pavlos, who was Felipe’s Letizia Ortiz will be under heavy guard by Serna. His mother, Queen Sofia, will wear a floor- roommate at Georgetown. NATO aircraft, a first for the Brussels-based organiza- sweeper, in pastel Italian silk, with a traditional neu- Roberto Torretta, known for his razor-sharp, sexy tion, and Madrid airspace will close for an unspecified tral-colored lace mantilla, said veteran designer cuts and pretty prints, will dress Ana Botella, wife of ex- period of time. The matrimonial Rolls-Royce has been Margarita Nuez, who has dressed the Spanish monarch Prime Minister José Maria Aznar, and Elena Benarroch, fitted with bulletproof glass and the guest luxury retailer and Walter Steiger’s list, expected to include hundreds of Letizia Ortiz, in a red dress by Spanish partner, will orchestrate the European royals and international digni- Madrid designer Lorenzo Caprile, wardrobe of Sonsoles Zapatero, wife of taries, is under wraps until the night be- and Crown Prince Felipe de new Socialist Prime Minister José Luis fore the ceremony. Borbón attend the Danish Royal Rodriguez Zapatero. The heightened security measures are wedding last weekend. In addition, Madrid’s talented milliner in response to the March 11 multiple ter- Candela Cort is making hats for about 35 rorist bombings at Madrid train stations. guests, a spokeswoman said. They will be Even though Spain has waited for one-of-a kind headpieces in a variety of years for the prince to take a bride — lightweight materials and colors like with some wondering whether it would fuchsia and lavender, she added. ever happen — the terrorist attacks For whatever reason and in a nod to have put a damper on wedding revelry. the late Princess Diana the Spanish The prince and Ortiz canceled all social press has been calling the future queen events — except a gala dinner for 400 of Spain “Lady Leti.” Letizia is a mature guests to be hosted by King Juan Carlos 31 and, yes, she’s a commoner — a di- and Queen Sofia the night before the vorced one at that. But nobody seems to ceremony, and the following day’s care, partially because her first marriage bridal lunch. was a civil ceremony and without the Two of Spain’s most innovative chefs, blessing of the Catholic Church. Ferran Adrià and Juan Mari Arzak, are Reportedly, the 36-year-old heir to the helming the kitchen for the gala dinner, to Spanish throne told his parents that be held in the 16th-century El Pardo they’d better go along his marrying Ortiz Palace on the outskirts of Madrid. They or he’d hang up the job. Publicly, they’re have six Michelin stars between them at “delighted” with the match. their respective restaurants, El Bulli on Felipe, who is 6-foot-5 and handsome, the Costa Brava and Arzak in the Basque always said he would marry for love, country, so expect some inspired cooking meaning regardless of whether his wife — frothy dishes with vaporous foam and has royal blood or not. In the past, he has tapas-sized dishes from Adrià and a stur- squired Spanish aristocrat Isabel dier, more traditional fare from Arzak. Sartorius, American Gigi Howard and The bridal lunch for 1,400 will take Norwegian model Eva Sannum. The place steps from the Almudena Cath- Spanish public gasped at the latter — edral, where the royal couple will tie the imagine, an underwear model from knot at noon, in the courtyard of the Norway on the throne of Spain. It would Royal Palace and under what will pur- certainly seem the prince has found his portedly be the largest tent in the world. media-naranja, as the expression goes Madrid’s stalwart Jockey restaurant will (literally half-an-orange, figuratively, sig- be in charge of the food, including a nificant other.) He has said more than lengthy apertivo prior to the lunch. once that he is smitten by Letizia’s “intel- But the Spanish monarchy has never ligence and courage.” had the glitz or profile of the Windsors, Ortiz — who will be the first Spanish- and the wedding of the 36-year-old Felipe born queen since 1879 and the first non- was always going to be a lower-key affair royal to wed an heir to the Spanish than that of Prince Charles and Lady throne — is no pushover, it seems, and Diana Spencer. So forget about seeing she is considered normalisima, meaning Victoria and David Beckham, who now she had a job like the rest of the common- plays soccer for Real Madrid. Instead ex- er world. The daughter of a respected pect slews of long-named royals from journalist in the north of Spain, Ortiz has throughout Europe — after all, they a degree in Information sciences from waste no nuptial opportunity to get to- the Complutense University in Madrid gether and gossip — as well as crowds of and worked for Spain’s daily, monarchist Spanish socialites unrecognized outside newspaper ABC, with stints at the EFE the pages of Hola!. news agency and the financial TV chan- Even the bride-to-be’s choice of dress nel Bloomberg. She was covering the designer indicates the ceremony is more Prestige oil spill in northern Spain for a local than international one. Forget Televisión Española when she fell for the Chanel, Dior, Valentino or Lacroix. Ortiz prince, who was on the coast offering con- has chosen Barcelona designer Manuel dolences. Fittingly, Letizia, who is from Pertegaz, who hasn’t had a major interna- the northern region of Asturias, becomes

tional profile since the Seventies. GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY princess of Asturias after her marriage. While there has been a lid on most Meanwhile, an epic production, by wedding gossip, a few snippets have sur- high-profile interior decorator Pascua faced about the bride’s dress. According The Spanish monarchy has never had the glitz or profile Ortega is under way to beautify the city. to published reports, the dress is in ivory Between the thousands of flowers, ban- silk (secretly woven in the dead of night) of the Windsors, and the wedding of the 36-year-old ners, flags, pendants and balcony hang- by Valencia-based textile producer, ings, Madrid looks like “Camelot with- Catalá. It’s high on the back of the neck Felipe was always going to be a lower-key affair than out Robert Taylor,” groused a disgrun- with a modest décolleté, elbow-length tled observer. sleeves without buttons, a voluminous that of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer. The prolific Ortega — he’s replaced skirt and long train. Pertegaz has said Portuguese architect Duarte Pinto the basic silhouette will be “simple and slightly aus- for 15 years. The queen never wears gloves, and she is Coelho in Spanish affections, they say — designs private tere, that’s Letizia’s style.” He has also commented on the only person allowed to wear a long dress and man- homes, embassies (including the Spanish Embassy in her figure, “fragile, but not her character.” There is a tilla at the ceremony, according to the dictates of Washington, D.C.), hotels, restaurants, even a perfume good chance her shoes will be by domestic manufac- Spanish protocol. Who knows, though — Spanish shop house (Myrurgia in Barcelona). For the royal occasion, turer Pura Lopez. windows are filled with mantillas, so the rules could be his choice of colors includes pink, from pale to fuchsia; As for bridesmaids, none of those details have been broken come wedding day. silver; ochre and white. released yet. There hasn’t even been a whisper on As for who’s dressing whom, it’s hard to tell because “I want Madrid to bloom like a spring flower in the whether the couple will have a honeymoon. nobody’s talking officially. There are a few leaks, late afternoon,” Ortega opined. In the Sixties and early Seventies, the diminutive though. For instance, veteran designer Jesús del Pozo, Not everyone agrees, though. “Madrid’s beautiful Pertegaz, who is 86, dressed Jacqueline Kennedy who’s known for his unexpected color combinations emblematic buildings covered in all those tacky lights Onassis, Ava Gardner and Audrey Hepburn. On a local and architectural shapes, has been tapped by Infanta and colors,” one fashion observer moaned. “The city level, his loyal ladies included Queen Sofia, (who cer- Cristina, duchess of Palma De Mallorca and the looks like a circus.” tainly had a hand in the selection) and Countess Aline groom’s sister, for both the gala and the wedding, and — Barbara Barker 6 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 Most Likely to Succeed NEW YORK — New talent is the fabric of any industry. Over the last around, along with a breadth of interest as students addressed month, the country’s art and design schools have been saying numerous markets including lingerie, bridal and children’s. One goodbye to the class of 2004 with a stream of runway needs only a few moments with some of these budding designers presentations rich with potential. While some of the most to recognize their savvy, determination and self-confidence. Now, promising looks so far have come from winners of various all they need is a little luck — and industry support — to turn awards, our editors have found a healthy wealth of ideas all their runway dreams into reality. Congratulations, ’04!

NICOLE BARRY AMY DEHUFF Fashion Institute Overachiever Award, of Technology Pratt Institute

JENNIFER STEWART Rozae Nichols Critic Award, Otis College of Art and Design

MARCELLA VANEGAS CHRIS BENZ Roberto SAGA Furs of Mendez Scandinavia Sportswear Project, Award, Parsons School Pratt

PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO, JOHN AQUINO, DONATO SARDELLA, LEE SALEM AND COURTESY OF PRATT INSTITUTE OF PRATT SARDELLA, LEE SALEM AND COURTESY DONATO JOHN AQUINO, CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY of Design WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 7

ADRIANA NATALIA ALLEN DAVID HART PEREZ Co-Designer FIT FIT of the Year, Parsons

KATE ALEX ANN WILLIAMS FIT Pratt

YUKIHIRO MURATA PATTY DELAUNAY Critic Award for Isabel and Rubin Knitwear Class, FIT Toledo Critic Award, Otis 8 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 The Challenges of Youth

By Robert Murphy Sarah Swash’s oversized coat. A look by A look by HYERES, France — Are Europe’s young Richard René. Daniel designers — long partial to the revolu- Ledermann. tionary, experimental or flat-out weird — finally getting practical? If the 19th annual International Festival of Fashion Arts earlier this month in this sleepy Riviera town is a re- liable barometer, it would appear so. And it comes at a difficult time for upstart collections. Two laureates at this year’s four-day competition, which has been a spring- board for names such as Viktor & Rolf and Alexandre Matthieu, showed pol- ished collections of impeccably cut dresses and chic trenchcoats. But lest the festival lose its edgy reputation, the jury - — with members including designers Anna Sui, Martine Sitbon, Christophe Charon and Gibo’s Franco Pene — select- ed a wackier winner, too. The grand prize was split between France’s Richard René — a former hand at Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermès who showed elegant dresses with hidden zip- pers — and a funny Mod-inspired collec- tion of oversized coats made to fasten around Vespa scooters by Britain’s Sarah Swash and Toshio Yamanaka. Meanwhile, Switzerland’s Daniel Ledermann’s low-plunging dresses, black coats and sweaters, earned — along with the aforementioned two — a prize from France’s 1-2-3 fast-fashion firm, which will manufacture and retail all three collections. The soft-spoken René merited an ad- ditional feather in his cap: Nordstrom will help produce his collection and sell it in five of its stores. René also gets a trip to the U.S., where he will meet with Nordstrom customers, stage fashion shows and sell his clothes.

“It’s a modern and elegant collection,” STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY: said Suzanne Patneaude, executive vice president of designer apparel at cult. I can’t imagine anyone breaking experts at the festival said. It requires Michael Michalsky, global creative di- Nordstrom. “It’s full of commercial ideas even right now.” the right psychology and a keen under- rector for Adidas, said the changing re- that can translate to the customer. It’s Franco Pene — who owns Gibo, the standing that fashion goes beyond tail landscape also has complicated clean and it’s sophisticated.” Italian manufacturer that produces and image and is, at its essence, a business things for young designers. “The fast- Overall, the level of fashion impressed distributes ready-to-wear collections for like any other. fashion giants have made it very hard for the jury. “It’s a good vintage,” said Marc Jacobs, Viktor & Rolf, Michael Kors “What is the best way to help a young designers,” he said. “They have Sitbon, who has sat on the jury here sev- and Paul Smith, among others —suggest- young designer today?” asked Jean the trends in the store for cheap, [just] eral times. “They have struck a good bal- ed designers gain experience and a taste Jacques Picart, an industry consultant weeks after they’ve been on the runway. I ance between creation and commerce.” for realism by working for other houses in Paris. “Beyond giving them money to think a young designer today who con- But given the difficult environment before they give it a go on their own. produce their clothes, it’s to make them centrates on a more luxurious product for young designers, many wondered if Recently, the festival has tried to pro- aware of the risks and the possible er- would have more of a chance. But that’s it would be wise for the winners to vide practical assistance to young design- rors. In this business, you seldom get a expensive and difficult to produce.” strike out on their own, recalling that ers. The 1-2-3, Nordstrom and Henri second chance.” Michalsky said he’s noticed that many many promising European talents — in- Bendel prize, which this year went to Among the most common mistakes of the young designers who apply for cluding Jean Paul Knott, Eric Bergère Michel van der Meide’s collection of young designers make, Picart said, is to jobs at Adidas also have much to learn and Jurgi Persoons — have gone belly parachute dresses, have all been devel- work mainly at impressing the press in the areas of manufacturing and plan- up in recent years. oped to give designers a venue in which and forgetting that clothes are made for ning a collection. Marc Gysemans, the owner of to sell their ideas. real women. “All the young people coming out of Gysemans clothing in Belgium that con- This time, Italian fabric factory Punto “Gaining recognition from the press is fashion schools want to be designers,” trols and produces Veronique Bran- Seta also will produce an original print easy,” continued Picart. “But it’s danger- added Gibo’s Pene. “But they all can’t quinho and Raf Simons, said he wouldn’t fabric for each of the 10 designers who ous because many young designers forget make it. Many would be better advised dream of financing another upstart today. participated in the festival. who they are. Designers emerge when to become merchandisers or pattern de- “The market for young designers is at a But it takes more than financial sup- manufacturers and buyers have money to signers — fields in which there are low ebb,” he said. “It is extremely diffi- port for a young designer to succeed, invest. Right now, that’s not the case.” many jobs.”

jewelry. Amanda Timian received the Etienne Aigner FIT Scholarship. And, Accessories: The Next Generation as a result of his winning the Elle Group Innovator Award, Anthony Cady will see NEW YORK — Fur designer Adrienne co-hosted by the Accessories Council his work sprinkled throughout fall is- Landau has a word to the wise: The ac- and the Elle Group. Five $1,000 cash sues of Elle Girl magazine. cessories industry can be fickle. prizes were given, and the awards were Landau is an FIT alumna, and having “Everybody wants white and then underwritten by the Elle Group; arrived straight from a successful trunk they want black,” she said at Fashion Accessories Design Holdings; Steve show at Saks Fifth Avenue, she was a fit- Institute of Technology’s Next Madden Ltd.; New Campaign (a division ting beacon of hope to the graduates. Generation Design Awards last of Kellwood Co., which holds the Polo Totengco suggested the students sur- Thursday. “They want scarves, then they Ralph Lauren license for belts and round themselves with good business don’t want scarves.” small leather goods), and jewelry com- Sheila Block, people when out in the real world. It’s Considering she was speaking to the pany Miriam Haskell. Michael Cangemi, executive also important, he said, to keep a sense graduating class of FIT’s accessories chief executive officer of Etienne director of the of humor and passion. “It’s not brain and jewelry design programs, it’s doubt- Aigner, was on hand to present the Accessories surgery,” he quipped, “it’s just fashion.” ful her words fell on deaf ears. Etienne Aigner FIT Scholarship. Council, and Clearly, Carlos Falchi had confidence Landau, along with handbag design- Amy Cai won for handbag design; Adrienne in the young talent he saw in the crowd. ers Carlos Falchi and Rafé Totengco, Joyce Lee, for footwear; Samantha Landau. “Call me,” he told the graduates.

had gathered for the awards ceremony, Beckerman, for belts, and Min Lee, for THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY — Emily Holt KERRY PHOTO BY EPA/DAVID E. KENNEDY; BUSH PHOTO BY REUTERS/JASON REED/LANDOV face WWD W and theU.S.’traderelationship withChina. end oftextileandapparel quotasamongthenationsofWorld Trade Organization onJan.1, On topofthat,industryexecutives areassessinghowBushorKerry wouldhandlethelooming cycle, andthecandidates’ positionsonjobretentionandcreationshouldreceive intensescrutiny. state oftheU.S.economy isexpectedtoremainamajorissuethrough therestofelection administration turninga “blind eye”toforeigncountries’violationsoftrade agreements.The principle. Kerry pointstothedeclineinU.S.manufacturingjobsasaresultofcurrent eortcnmneSn onKerry, hasa“somewhatquestionable”commitmenttothe Democratic nomineeSen.John hen itcomestofreetrade,supportersofPresident Bush sayhisrival,presumptive on trade Sourcing Horizons -off Pages 9-21 Pages 10 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

SOURCING HORIZONS face-off on trade

By Joanna Ramey Sen. John Kerry President Bush

WASHINGTON — On the campaign trail, presumptive Democratic presidential nominee Sen. John Kerry rejects the antitrade, protectionist label slapped on him by his Republican opponent, President Bush. Likewise, Bush bristles at Kerry’s accusations that the President turns a “blind eye” to foreign countries violating trade agreements at the expense of U.S. workers losing jobs to overseas competition. Moving beyond campaign finger-pointing and looking at Bush’s three and a half years in the White House and Kerry’s nearly 20-year Senate voting record, distinctions between the candidates on inter- national trade policy aren’t clear-cut. That’s particu- larly true in the arena of apparel and textile trade policy, and the political high-wire act of balancing the benefits of imports and the interests of U.S. tex- tile producers besieged by foreign competition. While executives on the import-driven and do- mestic production sides of the industry have some PHOTO BY REUTERS/JASON REED/LANDOV PHOTO BY PHOTO BY AP PHOTO/CHARLIE NEIBERGALL PHOTO BY PHOTO BY REUTERS/JASON REED/LANDOV PHOTO BY complaints about Bush’s policies, they also suggested AP PHOTO/CHARLIE NEIBERGALL PHOTO BY that political concerns are causing Kerry to rethink forceable labor and environmental standards, which temporary safeguard quotas on three categories of his positions on international trade. Kerry’s GOP de- he would also require in future trade agreements. Chinese apparel and textile imports with huge mar- tractors argue the candidate, under pressure from Kerry’s “commitment to free trade is somewhat ket gains, a move requested by U.S. textile mills. his organized labor backers, is forsaking the pro- questionable,” Vice President Dick Cheney said last The Bush administration as recently as April reaf- trade credentials he burnished in the Senate. month, according to prepared campaign remarks de- firmed its commitment to stand by the long-planned The trade agenda of both candidates, such as how livered before 800 Wal-Mart distribution center work- Jan. 1 elimination of quotas on apparel and textiles they view imposing quotas on low-cost Chinese appar- ers in Bentonville, Ark. Cheney chided the candidate among WTO members. At the time, Commerce el and textile imports to protect U.S. manufacturers, is for “trying to re-create himself as an entrepreneurial Undersecretary Grant Aldonas said the administra- of keen interest to several corners of the fashion indus- Democrat,” a characterization rejected by Kerry, who tion would continue to judge on a case-by-case basis try, particularly retailers who rely on foreign produc- has made small business a cause in his Senate career. the necessity of individually imposing quotas on ers for about 90 percent of garments sold in the U.S. But Bush also has had his lapses in toeing a strict Chinese imports, under a safeguard provision. Although the twin industries have lost some 340,000 free-trade stance during his administration. The Retailers and importers were also pleased by the jobs since Bush took office, the sectors still employ President — who enjoys wider support in the busi- administration’s rejection this month of an organized 713,000 workers — a large enough constituency to en- ness community than Kerry in terms of political con- labor petition to levy tariffs on Chinese imports for gender political attention, especially in the context of tributions, which include donations from executives alleged worker abuses there. the larger issue of the economy shedding more than at Gap Inc., Limited Brands, Target Stores, Federated Mary-Brown Brewer, a spokeswoman for the 2.6 million total manufacturing jobs since 2001. Department Stores, Jockey International and St. John Commerce Department, insisted the administration “Economic issues, including trade, will be the issue to Knits — peppers his remarks on international trade has worked with both sides closely and given them decide the election,” said Ron Sorini, an apparel im- with calls for fairness and considers trade a key to equal access. porter lobbyist and consultant who was a U.S. textile ne- U.S. and global economic growth. At the same time, “We try to get the sides to come together to come gotiator in the administration of the first President Bush. Bush’s ambitious agenda at the WTO to eliminate tar- to a cohesive position they can all support,” Brewer By election day, Julia Hughes, vice president of in- iffs on all manufactured goods globally over 15 years, said, pointing to a big effort on the part of Commerce ternational trade at the U.S. Association of Importers and a list of free-trade pacts completed or being nego- to convene meetings during the CAFTA negotiations. of Textiles & Apparel, expects both candidates to tiated, is unprecedented for a U.S. president. Brewer placed more of an emphasis on the ad- make overtures to help the U.S. textile sector, a con- However, early in his administration, Bush imposed ministration’s efforts to help the domestic textile in- stituency heavily clustered in the South, which quotas on foreign steel, at the request of ailing U.S. dustry than she did on importers and retailers. A backed Bush in 2000. But Hughes doesn’t expect ei- producers looking for temporary protections in order two-page summary of highlights attempting to illus- ther candidate to be concrete in his proposals and to regroup. The move was widely criticized by free- trate how the administration has helped the textile thinks both will instead straddle the middle ground. industry included the imposition of safeguard quotas Hughes doesn’t foresee either candidate wanting on China; pressuring Egypt to lower its duties on to alienate trade-reliant constituencies like retailers On the Issues U.S. textile exports; sponsoring trade missions, inter- by making “commitments to impose quotas on cer- national trade shows and export expansion pro- tain products or at any specific date” from China. PRESIDENT BUSH grams; enforcing intellectual property rights and es- Under World Trade Organization rules, China’s trade ■ Has pursued an ambitious agenda of free-trade pacts, tablishing a task force to address piracy concerns. can be restricted if countries can prove that surges of including the Central American Free Trade Agreement. Bush has “had his ups and downs” on trade policy, its imports harm domestic producers. acknowledged Kevin Burke, president and chief ex- ■ Kerry, whose political contributors from the fash- Stands by the World Trade Organization’s plan to drop ecutive officer of the American Apparel & Footwear ion and retail industries include executives at J. quotas on textiles and apparel in 2005. Association, but “on balance, this administration has Crew, Revlon, Chanel and Costco Wholesale Corp., ■ Has called for WTO members to phase out tariffs on all done a great deal to further the cause of free trade.” and who has Berkshire Hathaway chief executive of- industrial products over 15 years. In contrast, Burke considers Kerry on the campaign ficer Warren Buffett in his camp, was generally trail to be sullying his Senate free-trade record. counted on by the business community to support in- Burke said a “real test” for Bush’s trade tenets ternational trade pacts before the Massachusetts SEN. JOHN KERRY this election year will be whether the President will ■ senator entered the presidential race. For example, Intends to undertake a 120-day review of labor and send CAFTA to Congress and lobby lawmakers for Kerry voted for the North American Free Trade environmental standards in standing trade pacts. passage. Apparel importers view CAFTA as key to Agreement, the creation of the WTO, China being ■ Plans to scrap CAFTA. maintaining a sizable slice of garment production in granted permanent normal trade-relation status with the Western Hemisphere, while using U.S. textile in- ■ the U.S. and legislation dropping apparel duty for Would limit some tax breaks for U.S. firms with puts and preserving American mill jobs. However, sub-Saharan Africa and the Caribbean Basin. operations abroad. CAFTA backers are nervous the touchy election year However, Kerry now qualifies his vision of how he topic of trade’s mixed impact on jobs could forestall wants to promote global commerce. For example, he trade proponents as a maneuver by the White House to an all-out Bush fight for the agreement. has proposed eliminating some tax breaks for U.S. shore up support in battleground states leading up to Keeping CAFTA on the back burner is just fine for companies with operations abroad, an idea some the 2002 Congressional elections, when the GOP suc- the apparel union UNITE, whose president, Bruce economists have said would hurt corporations. cessfully defended its majority control in Congress. Raynor, has Kerry’s ear. Chris Chafe, UNITE’s politi- Kerry also said that, upon assuming office, he In another move seen as counter to his free-trade cal director, said the candidate and Raynor have would undertake a 120-day review of trade pacts for principles, Bush signed the 2002 Farm Bill with $190 talked in person once and on the telephone “pretty instances of noncompliance and enforcement of labor billion in farm subsidies over 10 years, including those regularly” during the last year about balancing U.S. and environmental standards. In addition, he would for cotton, which a WTO panel recently declared in a manufacturing and international trade interests. scrap the recently negotiated free-trade pact with preliminary decision to be against fair-trade principles. Kerry “clearly gets our issues,” Chafe said, making a Central America — opposed by domestic textile mills In a trade-limiting move questioned by retailers contrast to Bush. but supported by retailers — citing the absence of en- and other importers, Bush last year agreed to impose Continued on page 12 The start of smart ACTIVEWEAR

What makes DuPont™ Sorona® polymer so smart is what makes it so revolutionary.

Discover the polymer so smart, it knows how to make fabrics look, feel and perform better than ever before. Sorona® by DuPont offers all the smart, easy-care char- acteristics that designers, manufacturers and consumers are looking for in today’s activewear. Like unparalleled comfort and performance. DuPont™ Sorona® polymer allows fabrics to give, yet still retain their original shape for an incredible “second-skin” feeling. Plus, Sorona® offers easy care with UV/chlorine and stain resistance. To learn more about enhancing your activewear products with Sorona®, call 866-4-SORONA or visit www.sorona.dupont.com to request a sample portfolio.

©2004 E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company. All rights reserved. DuPont™, the Oval Logo, The miracles of science™ and Sorona® are trademarks or registered trademarks of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company. SOURCING HORIZONS face-off on trade

Continued from page 10 However, given Bush’s and Kerry’s mixed records on trade policy, “I question...whether the trade policy in a Kerry or Bush presidency would be substantially that much different,” said Erik Autor, vice president and international trade counsel with the National Retail Federation. Autor said a factor shaping any president’s stance on trade is the makeup of Congress, where a bloc of Republicans and Democrats have shown concern about imbalances in U.S. trading relation- ships negatively affecting American companies. “Whoever is the victor,” Autor said, is “either going to have to come up with a [trade] agenda that is nominally bipartisan or face gridlock” on Capitol Hill. While labor is solidly behind Kerry despite earlier differences on trade when he was in the Senate, the domestic textile industry remains dissatisfied with the candidate, as well as with Bush. Mill executives argue Bush could be doing more to stop the industry’s downturn in the face of growing imports. Among their complaints is the administration’s hesitation to reinstate quotas on more categories of Chinese apparel and textile imports, which they claim are the biggest threat to their industry and could prove fatal in a matter of years. “We are trying to convey the message we are in the middle of a crisis and it’s time for some very strong and direct action,” said Augustine Tantillo, Washington coordinator for the American Manufacturers Trade Action Coalition. “What we sense being communicated from the Bush administration [to U.S. mills] is, ‘You need to acknowledge countries like China with ad- vantages and you just have to get competitive.’” Jock Nash, Washington counsel for textile titan Milliken & Co., aired a list of trade griev- ances with the administration, including a bilateral textile quota agreement with Vietnam, which the industry claimed contained generous quota levels, and CAFTA, which many claim contains too many allowances for foreign yarn and fabric. Economic issues, including trade, will be the issue “to decide the election. ” — Ron Sorini, lobbyist and consultant

Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations, said, “There is al- most a universal anger at the enormous gap between the administration’s commitments and promises and what has been delivered.” When the administration does take action that could help the industry, such as cracking down on illegal transshipments from Vietnam, textile officials often feel shortchanged. Johnson questioned how U.S. agencies arrived at the penalty figure of 12 million garments, claiming he is concerned the number of transshipments are much higher. Wilbur Ross, chairman of International Textile Group, who worked closely with U.S. trade of- ficials during the CAFTA negotiations and secured provisions he was seeking, said he is “some- what disappointed” with the administration. Ross, who now opposes CAFTA, claiming U.S. negotiators gave the six countries too many al- lowances for foreign inputs, which could undercut his business, said his biggest disappointment is with the administration’s handling of Chinese apparel and textile imports. He claimed the administration should pressure the Chinese to impose voluntary quotas, at least temporarily, on textiles and apparel in 2005 to give the U.S. textile industry more time to adjust. “I can understand the theory that ultimately free trade is the right approach,” said Ross. “I don’t understand the theory of why there shouldn’t be a gradualism or a mechanism to help the industry prepare for it.” As far as Kerry goes, Ross said the candidate’s trade policy lacks specifics. “Maybe it’s just because it’s early in the campaign,” Ross said. “What I think would be very helpful, both for us who are interested in trade and the public at large, is if he would be much more specific about his trade policies so one can evaluate them and analyze what the substan- tive policies, if any, are between him and the present administration.” Textile executives were buoyed when Kerry complained the Bush administration’s procedures to field Chinese apparel and textile quota requests are overly complicated and have “severely re- KNOWLEDGE • SERVICE • SOLUTIONS stricted U.S. firms’ ability” to get requests fulfilled, according to a campaign position paper. Mill officials also support Kerry’s calls for tough enforcement of trade agreements, including labor and environmental standards. However, the NTA and others in the textile industry criticize Kerry for not being more specific about the need to impose more Chinese quotas or to address China depressing the value of its currency, resulting in their exports costing U.S. companies as much as 40 percent less. Kerry has said his administration would “get tough on Day One” to com- pel China, as well as Japan, to bring their currencies in line, but he hasn’t offered specifics. Mickey Kantor, President Clinton’s first U.S. Trade Representative and a Kerry trade adviser, said the candidate’s trade policy would be quite similar to that of the Clinton administration’s, largely supported by business. “John Kerry understands we’re part of an interdependent world,” Kantor said. “He will con- tinue to expand trade.” However, when the topic is narrowed to how Kerry might handle the China textile-apparel quota issue or whether he would advocate at the WTO a delay in the 2005 overall phaseout of global textile and apparel quotas, Kantor said, “It would depend on the situation...My guess [is] he will be quite resolute in making sure U.S. companies in this area are not harmed.” Dan Griswold, associate director of the Cato Institute’s Center for Trade Policy Studies, a think tank with a bent toward no government regulations, including tariffs and quotas on im- ports, said, “The distinctions are becoming finer all the time between Kerry and Bush. The 125 HARTWELL STREET main distinction is how strictly you impose labor and environmental standards on less devel- oped countries. Bush and the Republicans have the attitude you don’t impose [standards] and you encourage development through trade. Clinton tried to have it both ways, [by saying], ‘We FALL RIVER, MA 02721 care about labor and environmental standards, but not to the point where it becomes counter- productive and it interferes with trade and development.” 508-674-3585 However, with organized labor advocating strict enforcement of standards in trade pacts, Griswold said it appears Kerry would not have “much wiggle room” to finesse his campaign promise if elected. Thea Lee, assistant director of public policy at the AFL-CIO, acknowledged the chance Kerry www.radicispandex.com could backslide after the election on pledges made to labor, but he “at least is keeping an open mind as to where trade agreements have fallen short in the past, what they have delivered in terms of job creation. In contrast, Bush is locked into expanding the status quo.” — With contributions from Kristi Ellis Solotards by Capezio MORE COMFORT MORE PERFORMANCE MORE NATURAL EXPERIENCE MORE. EXPERIENCE TENCEL.® TENCEL® is the registered trademark of Tencel Ltd. for lyocell.

TENCEL Inc., 111 West 40 Street, New York, NY 10018 T: (212) 944 7400 F: (212) 944 7406 www.tencel.com 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

SOURCING HORIZONS hong kong buying hubs

he world apparel sourcing market is in a state of NEWTIMES flux. Major U.S. retailers and branded whole- NEW YORK — Newtimes Group Holdings Ltd.’s sourc- Tsalers face the option of buying garments from ing strategy is based on a simple fact of the apparel thousands of factories in more than 100 countries that business. supply the American market. “Everyone wants to have a very expensive look at a To some major importers, the need to keep track of very inexpensive price,” said Helen Leung, president where the best-quality garments and lowest prices can and ceo of the company’s Far East Development arm. be found, as trade rules change and the U.S. con- While it seems like a simple concept, executing on sumers are concerned about whether garments are that model requires a team of about 1,250 people buying made in sweatshops, seems like a major distraction goods from more than 300 factories around the world. from designing enticing merchandise and predicting Newtimes, with headquarters in Hong Kong and what shoppers are going to want six to 12 months in Taipei, was founded in 1971 as a buying agent. Today, advance. it operates as a full-service supplier of completed The options available to buyers are expected to garments to U.S. apparel brands, producing every- grow next year, when the 147 members of the World thing from bridge-priced knitwear to moderate- Trade Organization drop their quotas on textiles and priced jeans for women, men and children. The apparel. For apparel firms trying to focus their re- firm’s sales currently exceed $1 billion, according to

sources on marketing and merchandising, one com- REYNOLDS EPA/MICHAEL PHOTO BY sources close to Newtimes. Executives declined to mon solution to the production puzzle is turning over Many U.S. importers turn to one-stop sourcing companies to name their customers, but Jones Apparel Group is all or some of their sourcing functions to an outside manage their production in overseas factories, such as this said to be a major client. vendor that can coordinate every step, from product China plant. With Chinese manufacturers expected to gain mar- development to manufacturing to shipping. ket share next year after the nations of the World Hong Kong-based Li & Fung Ltd., with 2003 rev- Connor is chairman and chief executive officer, and is Trade Organization drop their quotas on apparel and enues of $5.5 billion, is one of the world’s largest and a major shareholder. textiles, the company is currently building up its staff best-known sourcing specialists, but it has plenty of “Our business model is one of adding value where in China, according to board chairman George C.V. competitors. These companies are specialists that value can be added and supporting large organiza- Ling. The company has 250 employees in China and book production time at factories and oversee the tions who choose to outsource global sourcing,” chief has built a training center in the southern city of manufacture of billions of garments a year. They gen- financial officer William Mills said. “We represent Dongguan to train quality-assurance managers. erally don’t own their own factories or any production only the interests of, and only receive compensation “We recruit graduates in China and train them in assets, an approach they say makes them more flexible from, our clients.” China or Hong Kong, but the goal is [that] we want to and adaptable. He said Connor has a zero-tolerance attitude when send them back to China,” Ling said. In 2005 and 2006, Here are profiles of four midsized sourcing firms, it comes to “breach of legality” or human-rights viola- he added, “we will conservatively allocate more to each of which sells about $1 billion in goods a year. tions at its factories. China as requested by our customers, in case quotas Since every $1 worth of goods these companies sell on About 50 percent of Connor’s business is in apparel, are reimposed on China.” a freight on board basis typically translates into $4 of while the other half is focused on home textiles and The terms of China’s accession agreement to the retail sales, together these firms handle the produc- other home-related categories, such as furniture and WTO allow the U.S. to reimpose temporary safeguard tion of garments valued at about $16 billion annually. lighting. The company has sales at manufacturer’s cost quotas on Chinese imports for a period of up to three of about $1.6 billion, Mills said. years, if those imports cause market disruption. CONNOR The company manages “every aspect of sourcing Newtimes has 13 branch sales and administrative HONG KONG — William E. Connor & Associates Ltd. for its clients,” according to its Web site. Connor serves offices, and an additional 22 quality-assurance centers was founded in 1949 by its namesake as a small pur- about 75 clients ranging from retailers in North and around the world, throughout Asia. chasing office in Tokyo for non-Japanese clients. South America, Europe and Australia to direct-mail Ling said Newtimes’ specialty is offering the fastest His son, William E. Connor 2nd, known as “Chip,” firms, manufacturers and importers. turn time possible from its far-flung network of con- took control of the expanded global product sourcing The privately held company employs about 1,400 tract factories. To allow it to fill orders more quickly, and marketing company in the early Eighties. He soon people in 35 offices in 20 countries. the company will hold inventories in certain products, moved the headquarters to Hong Kong. The younger — Vicki Rothrock a practice that sets it apart from sourcing powerhouse It STRETCHES

let inspiration flow

timeless innovation. timely service. the world over.

LA LAME,Leading Manufacturers of Stretch Fabrics presents www.symphonyfabrics.com An Innovative New Collection of Knitted and Woven Fabrics 229 West 36th Street and Trims Made in Europe, USA and Asia New York, NY 10018 Moldable Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics • Laces In Allovers and Galoons p 212.244.6700 | f 212.736.0123 Deluster, Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossed and Puff Prints on: Tricots,Tulles, Chiffons, Denims,Twills and Sateens Symphony West Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, Ruffles, Crochets and Rhinestones 860 South Los Angeles Street Please Contact Glen Schneer,Vice President Suite 702 [email protected] • www.lalame.com Los Angeles, CA 90014 p 213.627.7381 | f 213.228.1943

LALAME,Inc. 250 W. 39th St., New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 15

and major rival Li & Fung Ltd., also of Hong Kong. Many companies that had been assigned quotas in and department stores in the U.S., Canada, Europe, “We do take some risk,” Ling said. “We have to be the Sixties and Seventies eventually found simply sell- South Africa, Asia and Australia. something different from our competitor.” ing the quota rights to be a more profitable and stable “Linmark handles approximately an annual ship- The company got its start by selling to customers in business than manufacturing garments. ment volume of $800 million in FOB value,” Khoo said. the Central and South American markets, which still Khoo said since his company hasn’t focused on quota The company employs about 700 staffers in 27 offices represent about 30 percent of its sales, though the U.S. trading as a profit center, lifting them will simply allow worldwide, from the Far East and Indian subcontinent to is now its largest market. it to play to its strengths — buying and selling apparel. South Africa. Feniger has 10 business directors who han- Ling said he believes that China — where “In fact, 2005 allows Linmark to focus on apparel dle different accounts and are based at various sourcing Newtimes produces the majority of its merchandise — sourcing in China, taking advantage of the business re- locations to ensure a quick response, Khoo said. is well positioned to grow in 2005. He believes that the lationships [we have] in China to further generate new Linmark is about two-thirds owned by Roly Philippines, Thailand and Sri Lanka, as well as the business,” he said. International Group, a holding company that is listed U.S. territory of Saipan and the nations of the Middle From an operational perspective, Steven Feniger, in Singapore, and was listed on the Main Board of the East, stand to lose market share next year. Linmark’s ceo, in a conference call this month conced- Hong Kong Stock Exchange in May 2002. “China is certainly a vast country and they have a ed that there is an assumption antisurge mechanisms — V.R. tremendous domestic market,” he said. “But I expect limiting Chinese exports will be put in place after Jan. that they really want to expand their exports, and they 1, but “we have no idea what the rules and regulations LARK have invested in the hardware and software to do so.” are going to be starting with the first of January.” HONG KONG — Lark International Apparel Ltd. was —Scott Malone “There is a huge race going on in China” as compa- founded in Hong Kong by Ira Dan Kaye in 1963, with nies start to maneuver, but “there’s an enormous short- its focus on sourcing women’s garments for specialty LINMARK age of quality factories,” he said. stores and designers in the U.S., Europe, Africa and HONG KONG — The end of textile quotas next year Established in 1964 and based in Hong Kong, Australia. will mean changes to most companies in the apparel Linmark specializes “in the sourcing of apparel at the The global sourcing company produces sweaters, business, but executives at Linmark Group Ltd. said best price, quality and value for money,” said Khoo, wovens, knits, denim, children’s wear, men’s wear, de- the switch will not hit them in the pocketbook. adding that the group also sources home furnishing signer clothing, leather products and accessories. “Unlike some other sourcing agents or trading com- products, costume jewelry and accessories. But “we Clients include large department stores, designer panies, Linmark does not trade on textile quota, and are focusing on…medium to medium-high price range labels and chain specialty stores. The company also Linmark will not be disadvantaged by the elimination casualwear, including sportswear, as in swimwear and caters to catalogue companies, manufacturers and im- of textile quota,” said Kim Khoo, executive director. accessories, in North America.” porters. Lark tries to stay competitive through its sub- Khoo referred to the practice of trading in quota In addition to sourcing, Linmark also offers servic- stantial quota holdings, according to its Web site. rights. As the U.S. assigned apparel and textile quotas es that range from social compliance audits to product Lark also provides clients “with the convenience of to its trading partners over the past four decades, ini- development and design, shipping coordination and a one-stop shop,” according to its site, which describes tial quota allocations were based on the volume of ap- factory evaluations. it as “a seamless integrated service that encompasses parel being produced within those countries. Over Clients include retail chain operators, well-known all aspects of sourcing from initial product develop- time, many companies’ capacity to produce apparel brands — such as Calvin Klein Jeans, Chaps by Ralph ment to final consolidation of bulk shipments.” grew to exceed the quota allocation, turning the quota Lauren and Speedo, which are all distributed by Lark representatives declined to comment. rights themselves into a valuable commodity. Warnaco Group Inc. — wholesalers, mail-order houses — V.R. Color System. Both 888-PANTONE. ANTONE P

Must-have Color Guides, featuring a new color assortment,

design item. ONE PANT Inc.,2004. All rights reserved. timeless yet up-to-the-moment. For global design and sourcing the The season's hottest heels. www.pantone.com are a must-have. Contact your local distributor or call for fashion and home and other Pantone, Inc. trademarks are the property of © ® ONE PANT 16 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

SOURCING HORIZONS china sourcing: a how

By Evan Clark west and north and into less developed regions. This will lengthen shipping times, as goods need to be NEW YORK — The surge in China’s apparel and textile hauled by truck from factories to ports. Cargo ships exports is a sign that U.S. retailers and vendors find it can make the run from major ports near Hong Kong to attractive for production, but industry executives warn Los Angeles in as little as 11 days. From other ports, that importers seeking to take advantage of China’s the trip may extend to as much as three weeks. low wages and growing number of skilled factories “Another issue that’s come on the table recently is need to quickly adjust to the country’s cultural and the fact of electrical shortages in China,” said legal standards and growing logistical challenges. McConnell, noting they have forced some textile sup- Chinese apparel and textile exporters shipped $12 pliers to cut back production. billion worth of products to the U.S. for the year ended A vital discipline that must be learned by any com- in March, according to U.S. government data. That was pany entering the market is how to choose factories a 22.8 percent increase from the previous year, a that can not only produce a given product, but do so growth rate that outstripped an overall 3.9 percent rise reliably and ethically, as well. in industry imports and gave China a 15.4 percent Kellwood has a three-tiered process for evaluating

share of the U.S. apparel import market. REYNOLDS PHOTO/EPA/MICHAEL EPA PHOTO BY potential partners. First, the facility has to fill out a “We recommend, if someone is inexperienced in Importers who want to start sourcing textiles from China but vendor profile, which McConnell said was “an A to Z doing business in China, they find an agent,” said who are unfamiliar with the country can turn to agents. list of everything about them.” After that there are two Andrew Jassin, managing director of the Jassin- audits, one by an outside firm and one by Kellwood. O’Rourke Group, a Manhattan fashion consultancy countries in the World Trade Organization expires at Robert Rosen, chief executive officer of Bob Mackie with offices in Shanghai and Hong Kong. . the end of this year. In industries that are not regulated Studio, said, “It is about having the right people who han- Most companies exploring China also should start by quotas — such as shoes and toys — Chinese produc- dle the proper departments. You can’t go in naïve, you off with a factory that offers full-package production ers hold more than 90 percent of the U.S. market. have to be knowledgeable. We’ve developed very strong services, which means it handles all aspects of raw However, China’s growth rate may pose its own relationships with several factories in different cate- materials purchasing and delivers finished garments, challenge to U.S. importers, particularly as new facto- gories, whether it’s cotton or silks, or linen or sweaters.” to ease the process, Jassin said. ries are built farther inland. Given the many conditions that need to be met, Ira U.S. companies also have to be prepared to cope “There has been some concern about the ports and Kalish, a global director at Deloitte Research, said it with language barriers, time differences and the great overload in the ports,” said Joe McConnell, vice presi- often makes sense for apparel companies to work with distances between the two countries. dent of strategic sourcing at Kellwood Co. Hong Kong-based firms with operations in China. China’s share of the world apparel and textile mar- As the country develops, more companies will “They’re more reliable and they also bring to the ket is projected to increase dramatically after the quota begin to source in China and larger players such as table the kind of expertise that you’re looking for,” he system that has regulated trade in those goods between Kellwood will expand, pushing manufacturing farther said. “Hong Kong, because of its British traditions, has

The Moore Company Textile Group We Bring Stretch to Life! Manufacturers of Stretch Warp Knit Fabrics and Woven Narrow Elastic · Knowledge · Testing Bringing · Quality together textile manufacturing, design, and merchandising

AATCC develops the standard test methods your company uses every day to ensure the colorfastness of your products.” George C. Moore to learn more tel 919-549-3531 • fax 919-549-8933 web www.aatcc.org New York, NY Westerly, RI Phone: (212) 279-7733 Fax: (212) 564-5325 Phone: ((401) 596-2816 Fax: (401) 596-8550 One Davis Drive www.darlingtonfabrics.com www.georgecmoore.com P. O. Box 12215, Los Angeles Los Angeles Phone: (818) 786-4010 Fax: (818) 786-4033 Phone: (323) 255-9705 Fax: (323) 255-9893 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, USA Intimates • Swimwear • Activewear • Sportswear • Surgical/Medical WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 17

U.S. TOPS PRODUCTIVITY RANKS sourcing GENEVA — The U.S. retained the top slot as the world’s most competitive economy in 2004, though the emergence of Asian nations pres- digest ents a major challenge, according to a global survey published this month. Asia, led by China and India — both global w-to guide players in the textile and apparel trade — “will generate a major shift in world competitive- DUMPING CLAIMS UP ness,” said the report by the Lausanne, GENEVA — A total of 13 antidumping cases tar- Switzerland-based International Institute for geting the textile and apparel trade were Management Development. brought to the World Trade Organization last The agency said the new competitors “don’t Keys to Entering China year, up from nine in 2002. only provide manufacturing or services to But the WTO report in 2003 indicated that Western companies, they compete in their own ■ Find an experienced guide or adviser to cut through language, cultural only five cases of dumping had occurred com- right with their own brands….They will brutal- and legal barriers. pared with 29 the previous year. Dumping ly assail the competitiveness of the U.S. and investigations can take more than a year to Europe, as Japan did over the decades…but on ■ Be prepared for the impending end of apparel quotas at the end of this resolve, which makes it possible for more find- a much wider scale.” year and take into account the possibility that temporary restraints may ings than complaints to take place in a year, as Stéphane Garelli, a professor at the IMD be placed on China through 2008. happened in 2002. who directed the “World Competitiveness ■ Infrastructure, including port capacity, roads to inland factories and the Trade diplomats, who spoke on the condi- Yearbook” report, said in an interview that tion of anonymity, said several WTO decisions industries such as “textiles, apparel, footwear, power supply, may be a trouble area. on textiles in the last year have had what one consumer electronics, software development ■ Carefully screen factories to ensure efficiency, quality and ethical called “a chilling effect” on the imposition of and basic computers” in developed nations treatment of workers. antidumping measures. will have “no chance” to compete with the For instance, India last year won a case in lower labor costs of the developing world. ■ Watch the currency: The Chinese yuan is pegged to the U.S. dollar at an which the European Union had imposed The IMD survey compares the competitive- exchange rate that some economists claim undervalues the yuan by as antidumping measures on imports of Indian ness of 60 economies based on 323 criteria, much as 40 percent. Be prepared for a possible slight revaluation of the cotton bed linens. including gross domestic product, direct exchange rate, which would make Chinese goods more expensive. Dumping occurs when an exporter sells investment and levels of infrastructure, as well goods abroad at a lower price than in the coun- as an executive opinion survey. In 2004, China try of origin or at below cost. gained five slots to be ranked 24th, Taiwan a greater respect for the rule of law.” Looking at all categories of merchandise, improved five rankings to 12th, Hong Kong He pointed to currency as a big question mark for apparel firms 210 antidumping cases were launched last moved up four places to sixth and India considering sourcing in the region. The yuan, China’s currency, is year by the organization, down from 311 advanced 16 places to 34th. pegged to the U.S. dollar at a rate many U.S. manufacturers believe launched in 2002. India brought 46 cases in Germany dropped one ranking to 21st, is too low. At the current rate, $1 is equal to 8.28 yuan. 2003, more than any other WTO member. The France slipped seven slots to 30th, the U.K. The next year might see a revaluation of the currency to a higher second-ranked U.S. brought 37 cases and fell three rankings to 22nd, Italy decreased 10 rate, making labor in China more expensive, Kalish said. China brought 22. spots to 51st and Mexico dipped three spots “The best way to be prepared for that is to be capable of diversified China was the most common target of to 56th. sourcing,” he said. “In some cases, it will become more economical to antidumping complaints, facing 45 last year. — John Zarocostas switch sourcing from China to other low-wage countries.” 18 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

SOURCING HORIZONS invistataps apparel l

By Scott Malone had also been director for the Continent. our business.” ● Kent Smith, for the Americas. He Asked if that meant layoffs were com- NEW YORK — Executives from Invista was regional director for North ing, he said, “We will be reducing cost in sketched out the new management America. the normal way.” structure this week for their apparel Three executives will report to Still, he said cost-cutting would not unit, which will be broken into three ge- Smith. They are Bob Dzielak, U.S. sales mean abandoning efforts to market the ographic regions: The Americas, and technical service manager for di- unit’s brands, which include Lycra and Europe and the Asia-Pacific region. rect customers; Ria Stern, marketing Coolmax. Invista was acquired April 30 by manager for retailers and brands, and “Somebody who didn’t have a com- Wichita, Kan.-based Koch Industries Jeff Weber, commercial manager. mitment to a brand wouldn’t invest in Inc., which merged its KoSa polyester Dzielak last served as North one,” he said. “Nobody would spend over $4 billion if it wasn’t for a really good reason.” Koch’s acquisition of Invista was val- We will be looking at reducing waste wherever ued at $4.2 billion. “ As evidence of the company’s contin- we have it in our business. ued commitment to marketing, Ghitis ” — Bill Ghitis, Invista said a series of Lycra ads featuring singer Jessica Simpson, now appearing in unit into the former DuPont fiber busi- American sales manager, Stern was Europe, would debut in the U.S. this fall. ness. The combined entities had 2003 global marketing strategist for ready-to- He added that Invista is also prepar- revenues of about $8.4 billion, and to- wear and Weber was North American ing a consumer marketing campaign in gether, represent the world’s largest product manager. Jon Penrice will con- China for its Lycra brand. In that mar- fiber company. tinue as vice president of global market- ket, the brand name will be pronounced In an interview, Bill Ghitis, president ing. Bob Kirkwood will serve as global “Laika,” he said, and its name in Bill Ghitis, Invista of Invista’s apparel unit, named the di- director of research and development. Chinese characters will mean “magical vision’s three regional vice presidents, Ghitis acknowledged cost-cutting is experience.” percent a pound, while Honeywell all Invista veterans, who are: one of his first assignments from Koch “Cost reduction serves no purpose Nylon Inc. also said it would increase ● Greg Vas Nunes, for the Asia- management. unless we can continue to deliver charges by about 8 percent to 10 per- Pacific region. He had been director of “We will have the focus on profitabil- value-added products to our customer cent. Both increases are slated to take that region. ity,” he said. “We will be looking at re- base,” he said. effect June 1. On Monday, Nilit America ● Max Wiesendanger, for Europe. He ducing waste wherever we have it in Separately, Invista is one of three Corp. said it would increase prices by 8 firms recently to dis- percent to 10 percent on July 1. close plans to raise its Officials at all three companies said prices on nylon. Invista the price hikes were the result of soar- said last week it would ing raw-materials costs. Most chemicals be raising its prices on that go into nylon production are made the fiber by about 10 from petroleum products. Citing similar When was the last time you took a good look at your supply chain? TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. TIGER TRIMMING, INC. 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com

B ANK-M ILLER C O., I NC. We are the largest supplier of yarn dyed fabrics 55 West 39th Street . New York NY 10018 Flannels I N-S TOCK

End-to-end supply chain solutions from Waitex. Yarn Dyed Plaids . Tartans

With over 2 million square feet of modern distribution facilities Contact: Larry Kaplan or Bryan Lint in NY, NJ and LA, and more than 800 service specialists, 212 . 869 . 3916 Fax 212 . 921 . 4614 Waitex can make sure every link of your end-to-end supply chain is solid— from warehousing distribution to Internet mail- order fulfillment. And now we can even offer you the latest IT solutions including remote access, EDI and order processing. So why not link all your supply chain needs together with D INTE Waitex? We'll make sure your supply chain is unbreakable. PR LID & S To learn more about how Waitex can help your business SO VEN S OF WO RAM TCH ear or to arrange a free assessment of your company just contact ROG TRE rensw K P & S • Child s Candice or Leslie. TOC YED wear essorie N-S -D ens • Acc I RN ear • M orms YA ensw • Unif Wom wear P:: 212.967.8100 F: 212.967.8266 WAITEX.COM [email protected] unge Lo CUSTOM DESIGN • PRINTING • DYEING 135 W. 36TH STREET, 4TH FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 INTERNATIONAL SALES AND SHIPPING NEW YORK SHOWROOM: TEXTILE ARTS MARKETING • 40 WEST 37TH STREET #802 • PHONE: 212-868-9040 LOS ANGELES HEADQUARTERS & SHOWROOM: 129 WEST 132 STREET • PHONE: 800-877-2066 • FAX: 800-788-5283 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 19

worldbest shuts sweating it out

after union vote ALBANY, N.Y. — About 50 activists — including stu- dents dressed in drag, in cardboard boxes and in lineup garbage bags — joined religious and labor repre- By Brian Dunn sentatives at a national Sweat Free Communities Conference here Saturday. MONTREAL — Ninety workers at a Chinese-owned textile plant in “The trade deals may tell us to turn a blind eye concerns, polyester makers, including Drummondville, Quebec, were told Thursday the plant will close for three to to worker welfare, to worker dignity, to workers’ Invista, raised prices in January on six months. The news came a week after they signed their first collective bar- lives; they may tell us just buy, but when the corpo- polyester filament fiber. gaining agreement, according to the Quebec Federation of Labor union. rations are telling us to shut our eyes, then we “Continued high global raw material The plant, located 70 miles northeast of Montreal, is owned by China open our eyes wide,” said Bjorn Claeson, confer- demand and low reserves exacerbated Worldbest Group of Shanghai. The company cited the need to reorganize its ence coordinator and director for the Sweat Free by geopolitical uncertainty are driving management team as the reason for the shutdown, said the union. The new Communities coalition. volatility,” Walter W. Hubbard, president labor agreement increases salaries 15.7 per cent over two years. Sweat Free Communities is a network of anti- of Honeywell Nylon, said in a statement. A company spokesperson did not respond to requests for comment, sweatshop organizations promoting institutional “These unprecedented raw materials although Worldbest said last month the plant was having difficulties due to purchasing campaigns and linking efforts against costs continue to severely impact our poor market conditions. local and global factories that violate labor, envi- production costs and our ability to re- The plant produces fine knit cotton fabric using yarn from a Worldbest ronmental or personal rights laws and standards. main competitive in the marketplace. We plant in Mexico. The $32 million facility was built three years ago with the Tom Hayden, a former California state senator simply cannot sustain our textile fiber help of about $11 million in government subsidies. At the time, company offi- and Sixties antiwar activist, who was the featured sales at the current operating margins.” cials said the plant would employ 380. speaker, noted California has passed legislation Ghitis said Invista’s increase would While goods made in the Drummondville facility qualify for duty- and that prohibits the use of tax dollars for contractors offset some but not all cost increases it quota-free treatment under the terms of the North American Free Trade and subcontractors who employ sweatshop labor. had incurred. He did not rule out the Agreement, they cannot be used in garments produced in Central America and “The struggle is not over, but I have to tell you possibility of future increases if costs the Caribbean under the Caribbean Basin Trade Promotion Act. that it’s not a difficult struggle because there are remained high. “Worldbest was counting on the free flow of goods under NAFTA, which very few politicians in America who want to stand “We will be looking at the evolution never materialized,” said Elizabeth Siwicki, president of the Ottawa-based for the proposition that your tax dollars should go of raw materials [prices],” he said. Canadian Textiles Institute. to sweatshops,” he said. “They cringe at the Ghitis also said Invista has signed a Siwicki said two other Montreal-based knitters, Agmont and Malpac, thought.” marketing and development alliance recently closed for the same reason. The states of Maine, New Jersey, New York and with International Flavors & Gaetan Desnoyers, a union official in Drummondville, expressed concerns Pennsylvania have passed antisweatshop legisla- Fragrances, a $1.9 billion chemical con- the plant might not reopen at all. tion, as have several cities across the country. cern. Neither company has made an in- “They’ve broken all sorts of promises since they opened, including the num- Many schools nationwide have adopted antisweat- vestment into the joint venture. The ber of workers they were supposed to hire, and they were supposed to pay better shop rules, as well. purpose of the venture, the companies wages,” Desnoyers said. “They’ve been losing money since they opened and have Two local male students attended the meeting said in a joint release, would be to de- been financed by the head office in China to get their foot into North America.” in dresses, their statement illustrating how hard it velop new textile-related technologies. The 147 nations of the World Trade Organization are to drop their quotas is to avoid wearing sweatshop-made clothing. — With contributions from on fabrics and garments next year. — Carrie Eckert Evan Clark

Spring/Summer 2005 SOURCING Collection Preview! INDIAN Dallas APPAREL June 4-5, 2004 Dallas Market Center Show times: >ÃÌi˜ˆ˜}Ê*Àœ`ÕVÌÃÊÀœÕ«Ê 8:30 am – 6:00 pm

New York June 9-10, 2004 New York - Penn Plaza Pavilion Show times: 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Prepare for a New Sourcing Relationship with India! Sourcing Expo — Indian Apparel is your opportunity to learn how to source in a quota-free world and protect your supply chain by engaging directly with quality apparel suppliers in a vertically integrated country. This trade mission will be combined with an educational component featuring speakers such as Rodney Birkins,Vice President of JC Penney Purchasing Corporation, Jerry Cook,Vice President for International Trade, Sara Lee Branded Apparel, Wendy Wieland Martin, Director of Trade and i˜Õˆ˜iÊ9Ê*>ÀÌÃÊ Customs Services for Kellwood Company,Ted Sattler, Executive Vice President of Foreign Operations for Philips-Van Heusen, and Thomas G.Travis, Managing Partner of Sandler,Travis & Rosenberg, P.A. , discussing the post-quota environment and future sourcing strategies. >ŽiÊ>Ê ˆ}Ê ˆvviÀi˜Vit Don’t miss the industry’s first comprehensive look at the impact these liberalizing trade measures can have on your textile and apparel business. Register for this FREE,two-day event today! œÕ˜ÌiÀviˆÌÊ9Ê∫«iÀÃÊ>ÀiÊvœœ`ˆ˜}ÊÌ iÊܜÀ`ʓ>ÀŽiÌÊ>˜`Ê Õ˜`iÀ“ˆ˜ˆ˜}ÊVœ˜ÃՓiÀÊVœ˜vˆ`i˜Viʈ˜ÊޜÕÀÊ«Àœ`ÕVÌðÊ7 ˆiÊ You could win the 2005 IBERC Diagnostic Program!* VœÕ˜ÌiÀviˆÌÃʈ“ˆÌ>ÌiÊ9Ê∫«iÀÃʈ˜Ê>««i>À>˜Vi]ÊÌ iÞÊ`œ˜½ÌÊ Register today and you could win an assessment that includes an analysis of your products’ Vœ“«>ÀiÊ̜ÊÌ iʵÕ>ˆÌÞʜvÊ}i˜Õˆ˜iÊ9°Ê*ÀœÌiVÌÊޜÕÀÊ«Àœ`ÕVÌÃÊ Organizedsourcing matrix by: and strategic recommendations on crafting a forward-looking sourcing strategy tailored to your needs. >˜`ÊLÀ>˜`ÃÊLÞʈ˜ÃˆÃ̈˜}ʜ˜Ê}i˜Õˆ˜iÊ9Ê∫«iÀÃ°Ê ÞÊ i«ˆ˜}Ê *A $15,000 value. See our website for contest details. ޜÕʈ`i˜ÌˆvÞÊÃÕëiVÌÊ∫«iÀÃ]Ê9Ê>˜`ÊޜÕÀÊ}œL>ÊÜÕÀVˆ˜}Ê Ìi>“ÊV>˜ÊܜÀŽÊ̜}iÌ iÀÊ̜Ê>ۜˆ`ÊvÕÌÕÀiÊ«ÀœLi“ÃÊ>˜`ʓ>ˆ˜Ì>ˆ˜Ê Call 800-5TRADE-5,or visit Ì iÊ ˆ} iÃÌÊÃÌ>˜`>À`ʜvʵÕ>ˆÌÞ° www.IndianApparelExpo.com to register today! *ÀœÌiVÌÊޜÕÀÊLÀ>˜`°Ê
Ü>ÞÃʈ˜ÃˆÃÌʜ˜Ê}i˜Õˆ˜iÊ9t Organized by: ÜÜܰގŽv>ÃÌi˜ˆ˜}°Vœ“ÊÊÊÊ£‡nnn‡9‡ " 20 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

SOURCING HORIZONS counting on cafta

By Scott Malone of Importers of Textiles & Apparel and a CAFTA pro- ponent, said she believed the bill would pass this year, GUATEMALA CITY — When Central American apparel though, “whether it’s going to happen this summer, or executives discuss U.S. politics, they focus on whether whether it’s going to take a lame duck session after the the Central American Free Trade Agreement will pass, election, that’s a little bit harder to predict.” not the presidential election nor the war in Iraq. While executives engaged in the Central American Many executives and U.S. importers say the future trade say they believe the measure will be approved of the region’s apparel sector depends on CAFTA, by Congress, their words are backed up by a stream of which is the result of more than two years of talks new investment flowing into the region. among the U.S. and five nations — Guatemala, Wilson’s factory, which opened in January, is owned Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica. The by Washington, N.C.-based acrylic yarn maker National Dominican Republic also is seeking to be included in Spinning Co. and is an example of that new investment. the pact, which offers benefits similar to the North Another investor moving into the region is Wilbur American Free Trade Agreement, including duty- and Ross, chairman of International Textile Group — a quota-free treatment for garments and textiles. $900 million textile conglomerate encompassing the

President Bush has indicated that he intends to MAPS.COM/CORBIS MAP BY former Burlington Industries and Cone Mills. Ross sign CAFTA and may seek approval from Congress as Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica said last week that Cone plans to open a mill in early as this month. Industry lobbyists say the accord are covered by the proposed Central American Free Trade Guatemala City that will produce 30 million yards of is unlikely to pass before the November elections Agreement. The Dominican Republic is lobbying for inclusion. denim a year and will serve as the company’s manu- because of the trade deficit and the decline of U.S. facturing hub in the region. manufacturing jobs. CAFTA would be retroactive to tiles being shipped from the U.S. A cargo ship leaving “We’ve concluded that, given the probability of Jan. 1, which means that, should it pass, manufactur- Guatemala’s Caribbean port typically makes the trip CAFTA eventually going through in some form, we need ers would be able to collect duty rebates on qualifying to Miami in two to three days. By comparison, a cargo more of a Central American strategy,” Ross said. garments they’ve shipped this year. ship from Hong Kong takes at least 11 days to make Miamisburg, Ohio-based label producer Shore to Through the year ended in March, the five the crossing to Los Angeles. Shore also has said it plans a 35,000-square-foot distri- CAFTA countries shipped $7.11 billion worth of Robert Boynton, the U.S. State Department’s desk bution center and manufacturing plant in Guatemala apparel and textiles to the U.S., according to U.S. officer for Guatemala who worked on a report assessing City that will serve as its hub for the region. Commerce Department data. That gave them a 9.1 the effect of the end of quotas on the foreign countries, “Past 2005, we believe that Central America is percent share of the U.S. market — placing the com- said during a panel discussion at this month’s Apparel going to continue to have a strong position in serving bined trade bloc slightly behind Mexico in share — Sourcing Show in Guatemala City that CAFTA’s passage the U.S. market,” said David Slauter, vice president of and representing a 0.7 percent decline in sales. would be key to the survival of the region’s industry. global sales and marketing. That falloff came during a period in which overall “Absent CAFTA, your proximity won’t close the gap All the investment flowing into the region isn’t lim- U.S. imports in these categories were up 3.9 percent between your costs and Asian costs,” he told Latin ited to U.S. textile companies looking for lower-cost and shipments from China surged 22.8 percent. American apparel executives. production. Executives from the CAFTA countries said passage Marc Compagnon, chief merchandising officer with “We have had a lot of interest from Asian investors of the agreement is essential if their companies are to the Colby International division of $5.5 billion Hong who are looking to open mills,” said Henry Fransen, grow after Jan. 1, when the 147 nations of the World Kong sourcing powerhouse Li & Fung, said the region’s executive director of the Honduran Manufacturers Trade Organization drop their quotas on textiles and opportunities would be limited without CAFTA. Association, based in San Pedro Sula. apparel. Major importers and government officials “I’m not going to say all business will go away with- Selim Global Textile Group, based in Siheung, from the U.S. went a step further, suggesting that out CAFTA,” he said in an interview. “You will con- South Korea, in April opened a factory complex pro- CAFTA is critical to the survival of the region’s industry. tinue to have some need for quick turn…but without ducing yarn and knit fabrics outside Guatemala City. “We’re very happy that CAFTA is coming,” said that, it is going to get difficult for the companies here It employs about 2,000 and serves local knit garment Sergio Simán, manager of private brands for St. Jack’s to find an advantage.” and T-shirt manufacturers. Export Corp., a vertical manufacturer of knit apparel Bill Wilson, vice president of apparel marketing Joshua Ramazzini, merchandising manager with based in San Salvador, El Salvador, which employs and sales at Fuente de Ropa de las Americas, a Grupo Indurasa, a Guatemala City-based maker of 2,500 people. “CAFTA will be an important factor in sweater manufacturer in La Paz, El Salvador, said intimate apparel, said the passage of CAFTA “will put bringing down barriers and improving our speed to without CAFTA, “all that will be left to us will be the us in a better place.” market. The CBTPA [Caribbean Basin Trade quickest turns and the shortest runs.” But, he added, “It’s not that we will disappear if we Promotion Act] program is not as flexible as CAFTA.” Among U.S. lobbyists on both sides of the CAFTA don’t have CAFTA because we are paying duty now to That Caribbean trade act, also covering Central issue, there is a consensus that it is unlikely that get into the U.S. market.” America, took effect in 2000. It gives duty- and quota- Congress would approve the agreement before the Ramazzini said only about 5 percent of the fabrics free benefits to apparel made in the region, but large- November elections. Asked if he could envision the he uses would qualify for CAFTA benefits. The major- ly requires that fabrics be made in the U.S. CAFTA passage of CAFTA this year, Jock Nash, Washington ity come from Brazil, Colombia and Mexico, none of would allow Central American producers to use their council for textile giant Milliken & Co., which oppos- which are covered by the deal. own fabric. es the measure because of concern that it would sac- Indurasa’s offerings include bras and robes — two Manufacturers said that can enhance the natural rifice U.S. jobs, said, “Dangerous things happen in categories of apparel that in 2002 were freed of quota speed advantage inherent in the region’s proximity to lame duck sessions.” restrictions under the WTO’s 10-year phase-out period. the U.S. because they would not have to rely on tex- Julia Hughes, vice president of the U.S. Association Last year, the Bush administration imposed temporary safeguard quotas on those categories, which are allowed under the terms of China’s WTO accession agreement. Ramazzini said his company already has lived through Central Perks periods of unrestricted competition with China and has survived because his customers need a local supplier. onduras, Guatemala, El Salvador and IMPORTS FOR CHANGE FROM MARKET Kirkir Balei, vice president of corporate sourcing Nicaragua, four of the five Central YEAR ENDED MARCH PREVIOUS YEAR SHARE and group manufacturing at New York-based Liz H Claiborne Inc., said about 40 percent of his company’s American nations covered by the Central business is quick-turn merchandise and 20 percent of American Free Trade Agreement, have report- Honduras $2.53 billion +0.7 percent 3.3 percent Claiborne’s apparel comes from Central America. ed modest growth in their textile and apparel Dominican Republic * $2.09 billion -4.7 percent 2.7 percent “Post 2005, we think this number should still be around 15 to 20 percent,” he said. exports to the U.S. during the past year. Costa Guatemala $1.78 billion +3.4 percent 2.3 percent Rica, the region’s wealthiest nation, which Indurasa’s Ramazzini said his company isn’t peg- El Salvador $1.75 billion +1.3 percent 2.3 percent ging its future only on CAFTA and quick turns. The briefly pulled out of the talks, has seen its ex- company also is looking to license a South America ports drop sharply. The Dominican Republic, Costa Rica $554.2 million -24.2 percent 0.7 percent brand of intimate apparel that it will sell to the U.S., which is lobbying to be included in the deal, Nicaragua $489.1 million +6.5 percent 0.6 percent targeting Latina consumers. has also experienced a decline. Overall, the re- “Getting CAFTA is plan A,” Ramazzini said. “Getting our own brand is plan B. We don’t have a plan C.” gion’s growth has lagged worldwide import CAFTA Region $7.11 billion -0.7 percent 9.1 percent Marcio Cuevas, Guatemala’s minster of economy, growth and trailed China’s skyrocketing per- World $77.84 billion +3.9 percent 100 percent said his nation’s apparel industry employs about formance. U.S. imports of Chinese goods 140,000 people. This is in a country where only 4 mil- were up 22.8 percent for the period. lion of 12 million residents have formal work. “CAFTA is a tool for Guatemala to fight poverty,” *THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC IS STILL SEEKING INCLUSION IN THE CAFTA AGREEMENT. SOURCE: U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT he said. Or, you can go with us.

Wondering where your products are? Will they be delivered on time and in good condition? With Maersk Sealand, nothing is left to chance.

maersksealand.com 22 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

Ready-to-Wear Report Designers Find Signs of a Rebound NEW YORK — Buyers and ven- to do 30 trunk shows this sea- New Residences dors at the Designers at the son, which is a few more than Essex House and Nouveau last year, said Linda McMillan, By Rosemary Feitelberg Collective trade shows here vice president of sales. Last this month are counting on month, the company generated NEW YORK — Who needs a showroom? their customers to start dress- $120,000 in sales at a four-day An art gallery, flea market and large and ing up and giving thumbs up to trunk show at Leonard Rutan small museums are among the spots where en- pieces like suits and fur- in Houston. Algo of Switzer- trepreneurial designers are trying to distinguish trimmed capes. land expects a 40 percent in- themselves from the rest of the pack and have a “Everyone is very excited crease in sales this year and place to sell. about getting dressed again,’’ plans to open a Los Angeles The trend is driven in part by major retailers, said Mary Jane Denzer, who showroom in August. especially department stores, that are maintain- owns a designer store by the Algo was one of the Essex ing narrow buying spheres. In response, lesser- The Hell’s Kitchen Flea Market will launch “Fashion same name in White Plains, House participants singled out known labels are trying to gain exposure through on the Pavement.” N.Y., while shopping at the by Marsha Posner, co-owner of other venues. There is also a move to make shop- Essex House. “When we went JP Associates, a buying office ping more entertaining by moving it beyond tradi- Michelle Farmer, another participant, also has to war in Iraq, people here that represents 30 spe- tional stores. had private affairs, Goetz said. Mixed Greens has stopped dressing up. They cialty stores. She gave high In July and August, the Hell’s Kitchen Flea done well with house parties in Houston and held off. If nothing drastic marks to Kevan Hall for Market will unveil “Fashion on the Pavement,” an Philadelphia, she added. happens, people will be going eveningwear and David area for designers to sell their merchandise. Eveningwear designer Neil Bieff is among the places and wearing beautiful Goodman for fur capes. Posner Fifteen designers participated in Thursday 45 apparel and accessories makers signed up for clothes again.” also liked the looks of Laura night’s second annual “Fashion on Fulton & Fashion on the Pavement. Twenty percent of the In April, Denzer said her Couture, Sansapelle and Mark Friends” at the Brooklyn Museum of Art. Five participants are rtw designers, said Vicki Ross, monthly sales were almost Heister. Each of the designers ready-to-wear designers turned up for a sale at who worked as a consultant on the project. Ten $400,000 — the strongest April showed at the Essex House. the Mixed Greens art gallery here earlier this thousand people visit the flea market — on West ever for her 25-year-old store. “Clothes are looking really month and are already preparing for a summer 39th Street between Ninth and Tenth Avenues in Denzer and others said happy and that’s giving people one, and one-third of the designers who showed at Manhattan — on a good day, she said. business activity is a reason to buy,’’ the “What is the Perfect Little Black Dress?” de- “It’s a terrific opportunity to sell samples,’’ showing signs of im- A look she said. “They’re sign competition at Diane von Furstenberg’s stu- Bieff said. “New Yorkers love these kinds of sales. provement as shop- from still in a somber dio here this month were lesser-known labels. We don’t really have a flea market for fashion.” pers focus on Chrzaszcki. mood due to the In addition, 15 designers have signed up for She expects to sell about 50 pieces a day. dressier pieces that war in Iraq and Urban Design Girls’ summer trunk show at the “Fashion on Fulton & Friends” celebrated tend to be higher everything else. But MicroMuseum in Brooklyn on June 5. For the sum- Brooklyn fashion designers working primarily on priced. Stores last that hasn’t stopped mer edition of Shecky’s Girls Night Out, 25 percent Fulton Street in downtown Brooklyn. For the sec- year were more in- stores from doing of the 70 designers will show rtw at the ond consecutive year, designers held a fashion terested in fill-in good business.” Metropolitan Pavilion on June 30. From May 21-23, show to benefit the Brooklyn Community Housing items that could be At Nouveau 30 Vandam, a store here that represents emerging and Services. Former New York Mayor David used to update their Collective, she designers, will stage “Freshly Picked,” an installa- Dinkins was among the models. clients’ wardrobes. found dressy sepa- tion and silent auction for 90 designers graduating The “What is the Perfect Little Black Dress?” Trying to get a rates from Shani, from the Parsons School of Design this year. event has been held in Los Angeles and New York. jump on fall busi- evening separates “This is definitely a trend especially for people Founder Emmy Cortes intends to introduce the ness, Denzer plans from WWW, cock- who don’t have storefronts,’’ said Robin Goetz, who event in Shanghai, Prague and Sydney in the next to introduce mer- tail dresses at helped Mixed Greens organize its sale. “There are few years. Cortes hopes to give lesser-known de- chandise in June, a Floores & Floores, so many designers now. This is an opportunity to signers a forum to show off their talent. The black month earlier than and eveningwear have an actual venue and to get exposure. A lot of dress competition has raised $50,000 for Dress for most stores. “The from Christine designers are also getting together for trunk sales.” Success, a nonprofit organization that helps low- faster you get in and Forte. Posner also Five of 30 Vandam’s resources, Colleen Quin, income women get into the workforce. out, the better off liked Bill Blass’ Mel En Stel, Slava, Jessica Ciarla and Mobolaji sold Fernanda Niven hosted the event here, which you are,” she said. evening separates “thousands” of dollars worth of rtw at the Mixed was won by designer Tracy Reese. One of the New The retailer does and Alberto Mak- Greens event at 601 West 26th Street, she said. York participants, Carmen Webber, co-founder of the bulk of her buy- ali’s dresses and Karen Smythe, operations manager for 30 Sistahs Harlem N.Y., said she was elated to com- ing in Europe but sportswear. Vandam, said, “The whole concept was to bring pete with top-name designers such as Catherine uses domestic re- “I found a lot for art and fashion together. They almost positioned Malandrino, Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, sources to round out her as- my clients,” she said. fashion as a form of art. Designers combine fab- Rebecca Taylor, Luca Luca and Lela Rose. sortment. Denzer ordered At Nouveau Collective at rics, colors and styles like an artist uses paints. It Webber also said she was eager to pitch in. “I have extra-short evening coats and the Park Lane Hotel, Warren also brings a whole new group of people interest- no qualms saying, as a Black American designer, I “wonderful capelets, the per- Hipwell, sales director of ed in art and fashion.” want to put back into the community to help women fect look with evening gowns” Karen Warren, said stores Goetz said another one will be held this sum- move on — no matter what your skin color is.” from David Goodman. were writing $4,000 orders — mer but the date has not yet been set. The group is Shecky’s Girls Night Out is expected to at- She also ordered “gor- double what they did at last also considering doing one in the Hamptons be- tract 3,000 women who will check out the goods, geous evening gowns” from May’s show. The only downside fore Labor Day. have drinks and get free beauty treatments and Michael Casey, who was show- was fewer visitors, he said. House parties, similar to the ones Tupperware pick up a $100 goody bag. The event is organized ing at the Waldorf-Astoria Those who attended were built a business on, are gaining popularity, Goetz by Shecky’s, a lifestyle guide best known for its hotel, though there was not looking for colorful transition- said. Ruby Vintage, a vintage clothing company bar guides. Next month’s edition will tie into the an official show there. al items like silk charmeuse that showed at Mixed Greens, recently held one release of New York magazine’s “Best of New “It’s his 20th anniversary dresses and separates. Stores for a group of bridesmaids, and jewelry designer York” issue. and he’s gone back to what were “excited” to get merchan- he really does well,’’ she dise in August to avoid mark- said. “There are wonderful downs, Hipwell said. bag raffle. The some- Deborah short cocktail dresses and Fifties-inspired suits and what weary looking Norville dinner dresses.” dresses were popular at Sara Market Basket woman selling the Bill Busse, business manag- Campbell, another Nouveau $100 tickets said, er of Lourdes Chavez, an Essex Collective vendor, said Cynthia OSCAR GOES TO:When Deborah Norville got a call “They think it’s such a House exhibitor, said trunk Laffie, New England sales rep- about last Wednesday’s Women of Distinction awards status symbol. I think it shows are driving sales for resentative. The company’s luncheon, she presumed organizers wanted an looks like Coach.” many stores. Two years ago his secondary line, Sara Jane, emcee. Once her invitation arrived, she realized she Oscar de la Renta company’s goal was to hold which is aimed at a more was being honored for her work in broadcasting, and Bergdorf one show each week for the whimsical customer, received Norville told the crowd at the Waldorf-Astoria. Goodman’s James Gold fall and spring seasons. Now a lot of interest. While perusing the Gucci handbag, Fred Leighton had ringside seats for they are holding two a week. Some buyers were still look- watch and other silent auction items earlier, she said she the fashion show they Stores like the setup be- ing for summer, as well as fall, was eager for the airing of her interview with Anne Hjelle put together for the cause they don’t have to carry she said. They were also giving who was attacked by a mountain lion last year in event, which benefited inventory, and designers a lot of thought to their orders Southern California. “The mountain lion dragged her into the Crohn’s & Colitis praise it because their travel and were especially seeking PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY the brush and her friend grabbed her by the ankles. Anne Foundation of America. expenses are covered by the tops to freshen up customers’ told me she said, ‘Let me go. Let me die,’” but her friend Crohn’s disease is something Cynthia McFadden is all merchants, Busse said. One wardrobes, Laffie said. held fast. “I don’t think I have a friend that good.” too familiar with. Before lunch, the ABC News’ senior change in recent months is “Business in the mid- When one of Norville’s old pals Allison Davis legal correspondent and honoree for journalism, graphi- that shoppers have to place a Atlantic and South is good. In buzzed by to say hello, Norville said, “We used to work cally said, “I never go anywhere without knowing where deposit on special orders. New England, business is just together years ago on the ‘Today’ show, when we were the bathroom is. Finding the closest bathroom could be a Algo of Switzerland, anoth- picking up,’’ Laffie said. young and slim.” book someday.” er Essex House exhibitor, also “They’re chugging along but “And sweet,” Davis offered. “Now we’re old and jaded.” Later, when asked who made her pale green suit, said trunk shows are gaining we wrote more orders than “And crotchety,” Norville laughed. McFadden replied, “Tahari,” and then said to no one in importance, and overall sales last year.” Other guests were in a tailspin about a red Birkin particular. “I wish it was Oscar.” are strong. The company plans — R.F. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 23 Inter Parfums, S.T. Dupont: Making Scents Krizia, Alvea PARIS — Who said fire and water don’t Smith and S.T. Dupont brands at Inter features the two flacons. Sampling in- In Watch Deal mix? Parfums, explained that part of the S.T. cludes 2-ml. vials, among other formats. S.T. Dupont, perhaps best known for Dupont repositioning resulted from cre- While executives at Inter Parfums MILAN — Krizia inked a seven-year licensing its luxury smoking accessories, is launch- ations conceived by its recent men’s would not discuss numbers, industry agreement with Italian watchmaker Alvea Srl ing a fragrance masterbrand called L’Eau ready-to-wear creative director, Jason sources estimate the fragrances will to- for production and distribution of a Krizia- with its beauty licensee Inter Parfums to Basmajian, who has introduced designs gether ring up $6 million to $7.2 million branded watch line for women and men. help ignite a renais- marrying modern and in wholesale volume in their first year. The line will bow in September and will sance for the brand and classic components. S.T. The L’Eau lineup includes, for women, be available in jewelry stores and Krizia introduce a new life- Dupont’s flagship Av- a 100-ml. eau de toilette spray for $70.70 brand boutiques around the world. style positioning. BEAUTY BEAT enue Montaigne store at current exchange rates, or 59 euros; a Alvea, based in Bari in southern Italy, Two scents are being here is under renova- 50-ml. eau de toilette spray for $50.30, or produces Lancaster, its own watch line introduced in Europe over the next tion, and the brand is launching new 42 euros, and a 30-ml. eau de toilette (which has no connection to the cosmetics three months, and, within six months, leather goods and accessories. spray for $37.15, or 31 euros. For men, giant), and distributes it to 5,000 points of will be on counters in the rest of the While the L’Eau scents are meant to there is a 100-ml. eau de toilette spray for sale around the world. world, except the U.S. lure a wide demographic, their core $59.90, or 50 euros; a 50-ml. eau de toi- “Alvea’s impressive level of technology The L’Eau duo is S.T. Dupont’s third consumers are expected to be in the 30- lette spray for $43.15, or 36 euros, a 30-ml. and innovative design, and its important masterbrand, which follows S.T. Dupont to-40-year-old age range. eau de toilette spray for $37.15, or 31 network of high-end distributors around Classic that came out in 1998 and S.T. The scents’ name was chosen as it is euros, and a 100-ml. aftershave spray for the world, make it the right partner for us,” Dupont Essence Pure in 2002. evocative of what’s pure and universal, $43.15, or 36 euros. Prices are for France. said Stefano De Santis, who joined Krizia Nicolas Berdugo, marketing director and “we were looking for a substance — Jennifer Weil as chief operating officer in February. for the Celine, Christian Lacroix, Paul that is very noble, natural,” said Ber- De Santis added the license was in line dugo. “The Dupont brand uses natural with Krizia’s recent strategy to further ex- materials like wood, so we thought of Wella Posts Record Quarter pand its product offering. “We believe in water [for the scents]. It has a change- BERLIN — With an 11.2 percent rise in licensing, as long as there is strong control able quality — it can be calm or rapid — earnings before interest and taxes and an over distribution,” he said. and reflects the changeable personality 18.1 percent gain in pretax earnings, both Watches will be an “integral part of the of the brand. Water can have a masculine on a currency adjusted basis, the Wella brand,” he said, and, as such, their prices and feminine side [as well].” Group reported the “most profitable first will be in line with Krizia’s range. The women’s floral green fruity fra- quarter” in the company’s history. “We are focusing on a market that is grance was created by International EBIT for the first three months of 2004 open to development, and is full of possi- Flavors and Fragrances’ Sophie Labbe hit $76.7 million, or 65 million euros, up bilities,” he said. and Loc Dong. It contains notes of white from $68.4 million, or 58 million euros, Retail prices will range from $363 to flowers, vanilla and musks. The men’s over the 2003 period. However, due to a $3,000. While deeming it too soon to pro- citrus woody amber scent was concocted 38 percent hike in income taxes, net prof- vide a sales forecast, De Santis said he ex- by Givaudan’s Antoine Maisondieu and its rose only 4.3 percent, Wella said. pects the line to be available at all of includes notes of bergamot, mint leaves Sales for the quarter were $882.6 mil- Alvea’s points of sale. and sequoia wood. lion, or 748 million euros, a currency-ad- The line will include sporty, all-steel L’Eau’s heavy glass bottles — a bluish justed gain of 5.2 percent. Wella’s profes- watches and more exclusive gold and dia- square for the men’s scent and pink-tint- sional division contributed 49.6 percent mond designs, with straps in luxurious ed ball for the women’s — were designed to group sales, consumer 25.7 percent and hides such as stingray, cayman and ostrich. by Federico Restrepo. In-store advertis- cosmetics and fragrances 24.7 percent. — Luisa Zargani ing for the scents, shot by Albert Jeorden, — Melissa Drier

fabric@MAGIC August 30 - September 2, 2004 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, Nevada

Leading domestic & international suppliers. Thousands of name brand and private label designers and buyers. 2 The perfect material for success. unique opportunities to find cutting-edge domestic & international resources fashionfabric including: international exhibition Fabric & Trim, Leather & Suede, October 5 - 7, 2004 Fiber, New Design Technology, Jacob Javits Convention Center Fashion Publications, Trend Services New York City and Educational Seminars! North America’s largest textile, trim and leather event will be newly expanded this season to TO EXHIBIT CALL: 888.964.5100 or 917.326.6237 feature a most comprehensive array of Fall/Winter 2005/2006 Collections. TO ATTEND CALL: 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792

EMAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.fabricshow.com 24 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 Kmart Net Soars to $93M in Quarter Continued from page one $48.62 in Nasdaq trading, while the S&P Retail Index fell 1.2 percent and the Dow Jones Industrial Average plunged 105.96 points, or 1.1 percent. Kmart delivered earnings of $93 million, or 94 cents a diluted share, for the three months ended April 28 com- pared with a loss of $862 million, or $1.63, in the same year-ago quarter. Sales dropped 25.3 percent to $4.6 billion from $6.2 billion, while same-store sales fell 12.9 percent. Kmart said in its quarterly report that the declines in same-store and total-store sales were due to fewer mid- week circulars compared with a year ago, as well as the closure of 316 stores during last year’s first quarter. Adding to Kmart’s profitability, the company said in its Securities and Exchange Commission filing, was a more favorable gross margin rate. While gross margin decreased by $282 million to $1.14 billion from last year’s $1.42 billion, it rose to 24.6 percent as a percent- age of sales versus 23 percent a year ago. Boosting the gross margin rate, the filing said there “were fewer clearance markdowns and reduced depreciation as a result of the write-off of long-lived assets in conjunction with the application of fresh-start accounting.” Julian Day, president and chief executive officer, said in a statement that the company has been focused on “profitable sales with an improved gross margin rate, reducing operating costs through operational execution and working to improve the productivity of our assets.” He added the retailer ended the quarter with $3.4 billion in inventories, a reduction of more than 23 per- cent from last year.

Julian acy, obstruction of justice and two counts of making He noted that, on an adjusted inflationary basis Day false statements to federal investigators. Since then, going back 30 years, current prices are not even at 50 Kmart and Stewart’s firm have renegotiated their agree- percent of where gas prices were as a portion of dispos- ment regarding the sale of Martha Stewart Everyday able income when the energy crisis hit in 1979. products in the discounter’s stores. “When the national average hits $2.75 a gallon, that’s Stewart’s brand is extensive, ranging from the home when all retail sales start to decline. When it hits $3 a gal- and garden category to decorating products, storage, lon, then you’ll have instant recession,” Hastings said. baby, candles and accessories. Kmart said in its quarterly So far, Kmart’s stock price is up about 235 percent report that, so far, it has not experienced any significant since it began trading in May 2003. Hastings pointed out adverse impact on the Everyday brand line stemming that the public float is only about 37 million shares, a from Stewart’s conviction. It noted, however, that, “al- “very small number for a company that does $23 billion though product sales have not been significantly affected a year in revenue.” He noted that the shares — boosted by past events, the company is not able to determine the by net operating losses carried forward, which in turn potential effects that these events may have on the future reduces the taxes paid on the profits and helps to raise sales” of Stewart’s product lines. As reported, she is set the share price — are attractive to speculators who are to be sentenced on June 17 in a Manhattan federal court. “contrarian” players who “understand the business and The retailer did not mention how well its apparel aren’t afraid to take a chance. The rewards so far have Martha and accessories concepts fared in the quarterly report, been luscious.” Stewart such as its Joe Boxer label or its recent introduction of Ed Lampert, Kmart chairman and founder of ESL Thalia-branded merchandise. Investments, is the company’s largest stakeholder. As reported, the Seventh Circuit Court of Appeals in For one analyst, there are other concerns looming Also a potential media negative for Kmart could be Chicago in February decided that the bankrupt Kmart aside from the sales of branded goods. The national aver- more bad news about former management at the dis- should not have paid $367 million to certain former key age of gas is $1.94 a gallon, up 45 cents from a year ago, counter. A contact within Kmart and special agent Dawn suppliers, which could have ranged from apparel firms according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Richard Clenney at the Detroit office of the Federal Bureau of to trash contractors, for pre-petition obligations. The Hastings, credit analyst at Barnard Sands, observed, Investigation both confirmed that the investigation con- SEC filing said Kmart recognized $7 million in recover- “Value retailers such as Kmart and Wal-Mart cater to in- cerning the events that led to the discounter’s filing for ies during the quarter from vendors that received cash come groups that are vulnerable to deteriorating eco- bankruptcy in January 2002 is still “ongoing.” Clenney, payments from the bankrupt entity. What is still unclear nomic conditions. Gas prices at the national average who said she “didn’t know” when the probe would be is who gets the cash, the new reorganized Kmart or the right now are only marginally affecting consumers. While concluded, declined further comment on the matter. bankrupt entity for distribution to creditors. it is hurting some households in some markets, we’re not The probe is being conducted by the U.S. Attorney’s Meanwhile, Martha Stewart, one of Kmart’s key yet in the danger zone because in most of the country the Office in Detroit, which did not return phone calls for branding partners, was convicted on March 5 of conspir- costs are paid through debit or credit cards.” comment. Kellwood Debt Rating Abercrombie to Give RFID a Try CHICAGO — Another retailer is hopping on the and Banana Republic.” Gets Upgrade to Stable radio frequency identification bandwagon — He declined to provide further details, but Abercrombie & Fitch. said the format would be the first in the group to NEW YORK — Debt-rating agency guidelines, and other investors But the teen retailer won’t be putting the cut- use RFID at the item level to prevent out-of- Standard & Poor’s on Monday re- to sell a company’s stock. ting-edge technology in with its jeans and T- stocks. The company was testing the technology vised its outlook for Kellwood Co. “The ratings on Kellwood re- shirts at its namesake stores. Instead, A&F will in the new format because it would be too costly to stable from negative because of flect its position as a leading the apparel manufacturer’s im- supplier of branded and private The new format will sell expensive clothes to adults and it proved financial performance, in- label apparel, as well as its di- “ cluding a 6.4 percent boost in rev- verse distribution channels and will be somewhere between Prada and Banana Republic. enue last year and an operating moderate financial policy,” S&P ” margin that rose to 7.6 percent — analyst Susan H. Ding said in a — Neco Can, Abercrombie & Fitch an increase of 170 basis points. statement. S&P also reaffirmed Kell- One the other hand, she try out RFID in its new, more expensive store to modify existing A&F stores to use RFID with- wood’s corporate credit and sen- added, “The company’s expo- format, which is being launched in August. A&F out it being proven. ior unsecured rating of “BBB- sure to changing consumer pref- said earlier this year it would open four proto- Can has previous experience with RFID — minus,” which is the lowest in- erences in apparel, its below-av- type stores this fall in the new format, which has he was at Gap and helped that retailer do its vestment-grade rating, one step erage operating margins and its yet to be named. RFID pilot. When RFID was tested there, Can above noninvestment or junk acquisitiveness offset these fac- Neco Can, senior director of applications de- said, Gap found that the stores using RFID saw status. The change in outlook tors. The ratings also incorpo- velopment at Columbus, Ohio-based A&F, told sales increases of 7 to 15 percent. He cautioned, gives Kellwood some cushion, rate flexibility for small to medi- the Retail Systems conference here Monday that however, that it was unclear whether or not that since a junk rating can make it um-sized acquisitions.” the new format “will sell expensive clothes to resulted from the use of RFID. more difficult to borrow money Kellwood’s stock fell 67 cents, adults and it will be somewhere between Prada — Cate T. Corcoran and also might compel some mu- or 1.7 percent, to 39.45 on the tual funds, which follow set New York Stock Exchange. uthor Michele Wesen Bryant has created a unique picture book A featuring artwork selected from the pages of WWD. “WWD Illustrated: 1960s–1990s” celebrates the work of Fairchild’s staff artists WWD Illustrated: 1960s–1990s by Michele Wesen Bryant over a golden age of illustration, with work capturing the spirit of the 272 pages, full color, 11 x 11 moment — be it glamorous, the space age, naiveté, or exotica. isbn: 1-56367-273-1 “WWD Illustrated: 1960s–1990s” features over 250 full-color illustra- tions from artists such as Pedro Barrios, Kenneth Paul Block, Julianne Engelman, Sandra Leichman, Antonio Lopez, Steven Meisel, Robert Melendez, Kichisaburo Ogawa, Robert Passantino, Catherine Clayton FairchPurnell, Richard Rosenfeld,ild Steven Stipelman,Books and Robert Young.

Call TOLL FREE: 1-800-932-4724 26 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004

Graphic Design to $65K PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Assistant Designer Girls 7-16 sportswear. Photoshop/Illustrator Production Patmakers PRODUCTIONS Major apparel co. seeks asst. designer Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Better Pvt Label Dresses/Suits $80-90K for men’s & boy’s loungewear & box- [email protected] Junior Sportswear $70-75K All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ers, with strength in graphics and print pattern design. Duties include Jersey + Rib Lycra all aspects of line development: DESIGNER GROMWELL GROUP Fleece + Velour PATTERNS, SAMPLES, prints, plaids, presentation boards, Due to growth, we are seeking a candi- Immediate opportunities available in: Retail Planner/Seller Drake Fabrics spec sheets. Must be detail-oriented date with a high taste level to join our Design, Technical Design, Sales and 718-389-8902 w/ excellent communication skills. ZENA JEANS PRODUCTIONS design team. Individual must be highly Production Seeks retail planner w/ 2-3 years exp. Samples and patterns full servcie shop Exp. w/ MAC photoshop & illustrator. motivated, creative and well organized Email: [email protected] Great work environment. EOE. Must be detail-oriented with strong to the trade. Fine fast work. w/ experience in contemporary dresses or Call 212-972-9300 analytical skills, proficient in Word 212-869-2699. Pls. email resume w/salary req. to: and sportswear. Familiar with and [email protected] and Excel, along w/ understanding of understands the Shoshanna concept. dept store financials / 6 month...flows. Contacts & knowledge in fully fash- E-mail: [email protected] Asst. Designer ioned knits and beading. 3+ years ex- IMPORTER perience required. Please e-mail or fax INFANT TOYS At Last Sportswear resume and pertinent information to: Small, busy NJ office seeks motivated, CLOSEOUT - PANTS Major Importer of Missy Sportswear E-mail: [email protected] detail oriented indiv. w/ extensive exp. RETAIL Prestige French Fashions 15,000 pcs - navy blue pants - men’s & seeks a highly motivated designer - Fax: 212-719-0745 in all aspects of import procedures & Operations Mgr/Retail exp 80K+ women’s - all sizes. 214-275-0596 proficient in PhotoShop/Illustrator. documents including ocean/air frt. Store Mgrs/Manhasset & Wstchstr 55K+ [email protected] Candidate should be very detail orient- DESIGNER Custom’s entries & inventory control. Shwrm Mgr/Hi-end furniture/access 48K+ FASHION RESUMES ed & a team player. Responsibility in- AS400/EDI aplus.Email resume, Asst Store Mgr/Madison Av 45K+ SINCE 1970 cludes communicating with overseas Established circular knit fabric co. FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] seeks a designer with exp in circular MUST include salary requirements. For Fashion and Retailing offices and factories, preparing [email protected] sampling/production packages, assist- knits fabrics. Must be acquainted with ing designer in phases of develop- a variety of yarns. Computer literate. SALES ASSISTANT Professional Resumes Inc. Candidate will work directly with mill Lifetime Updating/ ment. Great opportunity, excellent Growing ladies apparel co. located in benefits. &besavvy w/ today’s fabrics and fash- KIDS DESIGNER NYC seeks detail oriented and self Telephone Interviews Fax resume - 212-382-1469, Attn: ion trends. Creative environment. NY Immediate full time position in NYC. motivated indiv. to assist sales, customer Rush Service Available Maggie. E-mail: [email protected] based. Fax resume: 201-221-7771 The candidate should have a minimum service, follow-thru, clerical etc. Must 60 East 42nd Street Suite 839 of 3 years experience within the 4-14 have 2 yrs exp. as well as knowledge of DESIGNER age group. Experience in outerwear a computer. New York, NY 10165 Bookkeeper Major children’s wear company seeks a plus. Candidate must be highly motivated, Fax resume to 212-768-3588 212-697-1282 / 800-221-4425 30M mfg. of children’s dresses located girls designer for its licensing division. well organized and willing to work in Attn: Michelle T. www.resumesforfashion.com in Midtown NYC seeks Bookkeeper w/ Candidate should have experience in a fast paced, creative environment. A/P, A/R & GL experience. Sal commen- designing girls infant, toddler and Please fax resume to: (212) 725-5524 surate w/exp. Fax resume 212-763-1667 4/6X garments as well as technical Sourcing Agent knowledge of embroideries, appliques Duty Free: Central/North America Lectra Computer (CAFTA/NAFTA) FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS and screen prints. Character license PatternMaker $80K WHOLESALE AND RETAIL CAD Artist experience a plus. Must be Mac profi- Sub Sahara (AGOA), Peru (ATPDEA) Dresses Sportswear A Worldwide company is Women’s and Large textile converter seeks several cient. Full time only. Fax resume to: [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 -RESUMES- CAD artists. Intermediate and ad- 212-967-8108 attn: Elissa Men’s, wovens/knit apparels seeks ap- Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates vanced skill levels in U4ia, Photoshop, plicants for a sourcing agent for duty GILBERT CAREER RESUMES and Illustrator. Both creative and tech- DESIGNERS $75K+ free regions. An ideal representative (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa nical. Fax resume to : should demonstrate their ability to MISSY &/OR JR SWEATERS source the product with right quality fashionresumes.com 212-869-2245 attn. Paul FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/1070 Merchandising Associate fashioncareercenter.com Private Label Sportswear Co. seeks exp’d. at the right price. Must have existing 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. contacts with manufacturers and has Beautifully Built Move In Condition person to deal w/customers, source piece Calvin Klein DESIGNERS goods, work w/prod’n. Fax: 212-570-6836 ability to provide agreed service level, Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Sr. Designer Sweaters $100K good communication skills with the Search-www.manhattanoffices.com MEN’S ACCESSORIES Calvin Klein is a world renowned luxury Sr. Designer Jr Knits $80K manufacturer and our production team. brand that is currently offering the Asst Designer Contemp Pvt Label $40-55K OFFICE MANAGER This is a great opportunity for a well 488 7th Ave (36th Street) following exciting opportunities in Asst Designer Mod Wovens Missy $45-65K established commission based agent. the men’s accessories division: [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Eric Gaskins Design Please send your profiles to: LIVE/WORK Designer - Cold Weather Accessories [email protected] Spacious Loft-Like Showroom Fast growing, established couture Individual should be a highly creative DESIGNER/ STYLIST design co seeks F/T or P/T candidate 2 baths, 2 entries ...... $2,950 team player with 3-5 years design and Leading Cotton Design House has ex- with thorough knowledge of computer- 1BR Showroom Apts...... From $1495 sourcing experience in gloves, scarves cellent opportunity for experienced ized business programs, A/P, strong head stylist to manage "quilt" division. T.D. T.D. T.D. T.D. Wood floors, Hi Ceils. Immed Occup and hats. Must have strong technical organizational and communication skills. SPEC TECHS SPEC TECHS SPEC TECHS 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6pm No Fee knowledge, be extremely organized, Must have extensive experience in de- 3-5 yrs experience. Benefits. signing & coloring Quilt collections. I NEED YOU ALL! detail oriented and have excellent Please fax resume 212-575-3691 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Designer communication skills. All responses will be kept confidential. CALL ME FIRST! Designer - Men’s Jewelry Please email resume to 1500-10,000SqFt Shwrm/Office/Design Neckties This position requires 3-5 years jewelry [email protected] Must see! Call Allan Gallaway Goldluck International, a leading int’l design and sourcing experience. Package Design & Admin Asst TECH DESIGNERS/SPECS Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 necktie mfr seeks a market-oriented Candidate will be highly organized, detail DESIGNER Leading home textile co. has 2 openings: •TD Pvt Label. Jacket Bottoms $80K oriented with strong technical knowledge. •TD Wovens Jr Sportswear $60-85K designer with 5-7 yrs of necktie expe- Well established missy & jr knitwear Packaging Designer - •Assoc TD Wovens Sportswear $55K We offer a competitive compensation co seeks a designer with min 5 years Req: 3 yrs exp, Photoshop, Illustrator, Showroom / Office / Retail rience. Solid exp with woven design •Spec Techs Womens Wovens $45-55K and benefit package. Please e-mail experience. A candidate must have Quark, MAC & PC. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 We find you space-best deal-no fee and computer savvy a must. Great resume and cover letter to: good skills in developing flat sketches, Sublet 525 7th/ready work environment and excellent [email protected] EOE presentation boards & line develop- Admin Asst - Garment Center Real Estate ment. Extensive fabric research experi- 1 yr exp-MUST be proficient in Excel Technical CAD Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 benefits. ence a must. Please e-mail resume to: Email resume with salary reqs to: Fax/Email resumes with Costing Engineer to $65K [email protected] [email protected] 3-5 yrs. intimate apparel. Imports. Designer reference: 212-448-9288 or Joy *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Fast paced branded & private label Showrooms & Lofts [email protected] ym’s & boys jeanswear co seeking ex- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS [email protected] DRESSMAKER Seamstress/Tailor for private clientele. PAID RELO TO CT $75-80K perienced tech CAD designer. Create Great ’New’ Office Space Avail production pkgs for overeseas office ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Bridal & Eveningwear experience req’d. TD Sweater Cut & Sew Knits L.I. location. Must drive. 516-671-7020 to include technical flat sketches, color Design Associate PAID RELO TO FLA $80-100K standards, trim pkgs & construction TECHNICAL DESIGNER Est’d luxury RTW co. seeks creative indiv FABRIC R&D $80-85K Int’l Prod’n Mgr. Bras, Intimates details. Adobe illustrator/photoshop to join our team. Responsibilities include 806/7, HK, Taiwan, Bi-Ling Spanish A+ skills a must for this position. for Private Label Sportswear trend spotting, fabric/trim sourcing, FABRIC R&D $40-65K [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Fax resume to: 646-674-1246 Importer – Must have Thorough sketching, & coordinating 1st sample development. Must have excellent follow- FABRIC COORD $45K Knowledge of Import Specs, up skills. Fax resume (212) 755-0507 Sr. Mgr. Womens, Vertical Retailer Technical Designer [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Calvin Klein Outerwear seeks energetic Patternmaking,Garment Construc- PATTERNMAKER and detail oriented technical designer. tion, and Grading + Excellent New York based couture design team Understanding of garment construc- DESIGN FASHION CAREERS seeks talented patternmaker for Toron- Communication Skills & Attention tion and spec requirements a must. ASST DESIGNER In Design, Tech Design & Production to location. Rare opportunity for right Tracking of samples and maintaining to Detail - Use MS Word/Excel See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com person w/ min 5-7 years exp in evening clear records of all development. CAD New Patented Dye Process Fast paced updated private label sports- Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 and bridal couture gowns. Fax resume files. Fax Resume to Pete at: wear mfr. seeks an exp’d individual experience a plus. Please fax resume Company with patented dye process, w/ cover letter/salary req: 212-273-3418. to Jonathan @ 212-944-5333. serious retailers reaction from many 212-944-2452 with a minimum of 3-4 yrs. We are look- majors, seeking best firms in categories ing for a highly motivated, creative, or- FIT MODEL Patternmakers/Sample Cutters of cotton/lycra, pique (polos), denim, ganized, self starter. Must have excel- Need Fit Model - Part time for Junior Established evening wear couture co Technical fleece, & knits to meet retailers demands. lent flat sketching; through knowledge Intimate Apparel. Midtown location. seeks experienced patternmakers and Please e-mail: [email protected] Accounts Receivable of trim & fabric markets. Excellent Please fax resume to: 212-221-1278 cutters. One of a kind dresses. Design/Production follow-up skills. Exp. in running a sam- Please call: 212-944-7144 Major Jr Denim Import/Mfg seeks an Midtown men’s sportswear co. seeks exp’d ple room a must! Right hand to design Accts. Receivable to assist w/ posting experienced individual to be responsi- director. Must be a team player. Excel- FIT SPECIALIST ble for initial to production spec pack- & collections. Exp. w/ dept. store charge lent opportunity for the right person! Need fit specialist for Junior Intimate PATTERNMAKER backs a +. Must know basic accounting Well known Mfr. of Ladies’ Moderate ages for development, analyze fit sam- Please fax resume to: (212) 302-1561. Apparel. Must have experience with ples and communicate with overseas & journal entries. Desired salary must sizing and specs. Sportswear seeks person exp’d. in full be included in reply. lined jackets. Medical & 401K available. offices/follow up. Must be detailed & Please fax resume to: 212-221-1278 work closely with design team - Please fax: (908) 832-1589 or DESIGNER - 3+ yrs exp designing a Jr Call Gus at: 212-869-3619 Email: [email protected] EOE computer literate. urban branded tops/bottoms-denim & not Fax resume & salary requirements denim/pref MAC-Photo/Illus. $$Open. attn: RS 212-398-2287 Admin Since 1967 Les Richards Agcy - Call (212) 221-0870. Production Asst An apparel company is looking for a W-I-N-S-T-O-N highly motivated person who is willing VP/ Head Merchandiser to work long hours. No exp needed. Urban Ethnic APPAREL STAFFING FREIGHT & DUTY AUDITOR / DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Great learning exp. Call 646-249-7077 We seek a superstar who knows what DESIGNER CUSTOMS COMPLIANCE drives business, what makes it work. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION CHILDRENS (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Immediate Position - Excellent taste, kids experience, tre- NYC childrenswear co. seeks energetic Excellent Opportunity! PRODUCTION mendously creative. KNow what is pos- indiv. for newborn through toddler li- Wearealeading childrenswear manu- sible at retail. Understand floor space, cense and private label lines. 3-5 yrs. facturer seeking candidates for our COORDINATOR fabrics, and construction. Deal with Apparel Company exp. Illustrator a must. Fax resume: Import/Export Department. The posi- SEVENTH AVENUE Liscensors. Handle production issues • MERCHANDISER - Seeking organized Eli 212-967-9328. Email tion will be responsible for the audit of WOMEN’S APPAREL COMPANY &retail with tact. Package retail pre- & detail oriented to handle overseas [email protected] all broker invoices for 7501’s (custom needs someone with 8+ yrs experience sentations creatively. Direct design vendors for Production & Fit Approvals. entry) for proper classification. Other in overseas production. Must be strong team. Understand big picture. • IMPORT ASSISTANT- Seeking smart duties will include the auditing of all in sweater and cut/sewn knits. Candidate Email: [email protected] organized to handle banking, factoring freight ocean/air/trucking freight must be highly motivated, computer in total confidence DESIGNER literate (AS400), detail oriented multi- and shipping Children’s Wear Mfr. Is Hiring for the charges. Must have extensive knowl- E-Mail: [email protected] edge of the apparel industry as well as tasker in prod planning, lab dip appro- following positions: val, cutting tickets and fabric orders. OUTERWEAR DESIGNER customs compliance. Please forward your resume by e-mail to: Good communication skills and be well APPAREL JOBS Atleast 3 yrs of experience in design- organized, must follow up in all phases ing Kid’s wear ranging from [email protected] or fax to (212) 543- 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)CAD Artists 2826. No telephone calls please. EOE of production. Please send resume to: 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy or girl or YG men Infant/Toddler to 7-16 in Girl’s and 8- Box#M 1059 Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) 20 in Boy’s. Strong creativity, eye for c/o Fairchild Publications detail and Knowlege of garment con- GRAPHIC ARTIST 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl struction. Proficient in Photoshop & Il- New York, NY 10001 lustrator required. Art dept at NYC childrenswear co. Assistant Designer GRAPHIC DESIGNER seeks indiv. to create innovative art Looking for an associate to add to our Creative with Strong Graphic Skills & from concept to final art for branded Production Manager $90-100K. Current team in a major dress company. An Flair for interpreting Trend. Proficient and license lines. Proficient in MAC exp. in women’s outerwear req’d. Tech www.tuttleagency.com enthusiastic team player with organiza- in Photoshop & Illustrator.Flat sketch- Photoshop/Illustrator. Fax resume to: knowledge of construction of outerwear + tional skills and flat sketch abilities ing ability a plus. Eli 212-967-9328. Email prod admin + scheduling. Sourcing in Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn: Chris required. Please fax: (212) 398-6961 Fax resume to attn: DC at 212-564-9507 [email protected] Far East exp. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Or email: [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2004 27

Graydon MEMO PAD Carter Holiday Stars at Intermezzo FLAP FLOP: Is Graydon Carter in the NEW YORK — While most of the Despite the complaints about Stefani Toonkel-Greenspan, clear? Four days after stories in The 697 exhibitors at ENK Inter- the lack of new items, select the creative force behind Priori- New York Times and The Los Angeles national’s Intermezzo trade booths were buzzing. Michael ties T-shirts, said she was booking Times called his journalistic ethics show here brought back their Stars and C&C California’s her new holiday styles of bright fall collections, some of them booths were consistently packed color T-shirts printed with say- into question, it’s certainly looking were ready for holiday. as buyers updated their orders ings like “Carbs are so last year,” that way. The two papers outed the About 7,500 retailers attended for bright color T-shirts. James “Manolo is my homeboy” and Vanity Fair editor in chief for the show, which ended its three- Jeans was also busy writing or- “Google Me.” But booking the accepting a $100,000 finder’s fee day run at the Show Piers here ders for its new black denim best for the holidays were the from Universal Pictures for “A May 4. Attendance and exhibitor jeans and trouser pencil skirts. shirts that said “Haute Beautiful Mind,” and for generally numbers were up over last year, How & Wen was ready for Chocolate” and “Hot & Sour.” The being cozy with the moguls his when there were 686 exhibitors holiday and its items sold well. line wholesales from $20 to $24. magazine covers. and 7,000 retailers attending. While the contemporary sports- Cousin Johnny’s knits were A former Condé Nast executive “Some people have a few new wear brand is best known for its booking well for the season, de- said Carter should have no problem things, but overall I’m not seeing pants and jackets, booking for spite the fact the holiday collec- riding the flap out, assuming there enough,” said Marcie Vort of the holiday was the jersey draped tion was stuck in Customs and are no more bombshells to come. Great Neck, N.Y.-based high-end top and skirts in colors like soft didn’t make it to the show. How- “There’s a judge and jury of one over contemporary shop Stacey’s pink and black, a sequin-de- ever, key items were the acrylic there,” he said, referring to Condé Place. “There are a lot of pon- tailed dress in gold and pink, pom-pom accented ponchos and chos and tweed items, which are and tuxedo pants with crystal cotton ponchos, vintage-inspired Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse, with nice, but really I came here hop- button details. Also booking well embroidered cardigans and cot- whom Carter is said to have a good ing I would see more new things.” was the cashmere wrap sweater, ton cardigans with ribbon detail. relationship. “If Si doesn’t feel there’s a problem, there’s no problem.” Vort’s partner, Stacey Polacco, accented with a crystal pin. The The Cousin Johnny line whole- A former Vanity Fair staffer agreed, noting the magazine’s consistently agreed: “This has to be the qui- How & Wen collection whole- sales from $34 to $88. strong business performance under Carter. “The question is, is any of this etest I have ever seen this show.” sales from $49 to $130. — Julee Greenberg stuff he’s doing a distraction from his duties? You could argue that it’s not. If anything, it’s probably helped Vanity Fair’s standing in the Hollywood community,” he said. The one remaining unknown is The Wall Street Journal, which has been working on its own story about Carter but has yet to publish Brooklyn Runway Nets $52K for Homeless anything. A spokeswoman for Vanity Fair (which, like WWD, is owned by Advance Publications Inc.) said she doesn’t expect any damaging NEW YORK — A crowd of about disclosures. — Jeff Bercovici 250 people turned out at the Brooklyn Museum of Art Thurs- FUN WITH FURNITURE: It’s ICFF time again, and the design magazines are day night for a fashion show fea- going all out. Wallpaper editor in chief Jeremy Langmead, in town for the turing 15 of the borough’s design- 16th annual International Contemporary Furniture Fair, hosted his first ers and benefiting a nonprofit U.S. event Monday night, a cocktail party and design exhibition at Bergdorf group that provides housing for

the homeless and mentally ill. FLEISHMAN LAUREN PHOTO BY Goodman. (Linda Fargo, Bergdorf’s senior vice president of visual Doris Clark, executive director presentation, was his co-host.) of Brooklyn Community Housing The party also gave Langmead a chance to introduce executive editor & Services, said the event, Fash- Robert Johnston, who will move to New York in June to become the London- ion on Fulton, got its start last based title’s first U.S. editor. “For the last few years, Wallpaper hasn’t paid year when she noticed a growing enough attention to the U.S., and to New York in particular,” said population of boutique designers Langmead. “That’s something we’re starting to change. I really want to around Fort Greene, where her increase our presence here in the States. Design-wise, it’s becoming a very group does much of its work. interesting place.” “I would go out and see all this John McDonald would agree. McDonald is editorial director and great clothing, and I wanted to publisher of City magazine, which sponsored a furniture design contest as know who made it,” she said. For their part, many of the de- part of the ICFF festivities. Nine designers from around the world Designer William Fleet joked that the event was “an alternative to 7th on Sixth.” responded to the challenge to design a collapsible piece of furniture that signers participating in the event said they relished the chance not Jonathan Adewumi, president the community.” could be shipped in a FedEx box on a budget of less than $200. only to show their work, but to of Nigerian Fabrics & Fashions — The event raised in excess of City’s exhibit, on view through today at Diesel Style Lab on West participate in a larger cause. a fabric importer and local manu- $52,000 for the group, which pro- Broadway, shows time-lapse video of editors from the magazine unpacking “When you’re a designer, you’re facturer focused on Afrocentric vides short- and long-term hous- and assembling the submissions. “Some of them were just genius,” said stuck in your own world, it’s very wedding clothes — added, “The ing for about 500 people a year, McDonald. — J.B. narrow,” said Michelle Spence, community we are in supports Clark said. of Michelle New York. our business and so we return to — Scott Malone

Sales Manager /Senior Director of Sales Sales Consultant Rapidly expanding established NY ISHYU & Sales Consultant for Madison Avenue Account Executive high-end Eveningwear Company has Bridal Couture Boutique. Must have Minimum 3-5 years whole- an immediate opening for a hands-on CARLIE’S COURT sales experience. Fax resume to sale sales experience with Director of Sales to strengthen our (212) 583-1715 sales team. SALES major department stores. Highly regarded brand of moderate Fax Resumes Attn: Brendan Weare seeking an individual w/ ability and better separates and leader in EVENINGWEAR to bring in new accounts to impact the blouses and skirts seeks dynamic and 212-764-6912 sales growth of our company. Individual aggressive sales persons with a mini- SALES will work closely with Design and Pro- mum of 5 years experience who is duction department. Must have exp. searching for an ambitious career STORE MANAGER Est’d 19 yr old company with merchandising, sales projection, change. Must be well connected and Robert Lee Morris the prestigious jewelry budgeting, customer service, calendars motivated to develop and maintain designer seeks a Sales Manager for the seeks strong key salesperson and imports. Candidate must have Soho gallery. The qualified candidate for NY showroom with Corporate Sales existing major accounts and able to Prominent wholesaler of imported Jr. extensive experience working with merchandise, travel, organize show- should have knowledge of the luxury great merchandising skills, Sportswear seeks motivated East Coast department and specialty stores with room and be fully computer literate. market, be highly motivated, energetic Salesperson with at least 3 years experi- knowledge of replenishment business The right candidate will be compensated and understand and convey the brand proven current track record as well as private labels. Excellent com- image. Can manage, lead, and develop & relationships. E-mail: ence. Must have current buyer contacts with a very attractive salary package Organic Apparel w/major East Coast retailers. Fax resumes/ munication, analytical, follow-up and and/or commission including medical asales staff, Have excellent communication [email protected] computer skills required. Requires and analytical skills, results oriented Colorado based lifestyle company is salary history attn. Sales at: 206-282-4258 benefits and bonus. seeking experienced individuals or rep minimum 5 years experience as Sales Please email and be hands on. Knowledge of the jewelry Executive. market aplus.Competitive salary and groups to sell 100% organic cotton [email protected] apparel. Qualified applicants must Please fax resume and salary require- or Phone: 212-221-2001 X202 benefits plan. Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] have well established relationships ments to (212) 575-1644 or Fax: 514-389-2880 with specialty, athletic, and depart- ment stores. All territories available. For immediate consideration please submit resume to: Fax: 303-222-3698, Attn: Mary or E-mail: [email protected] 04. rademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 TERS. ® Registered Service Mark/T TERS. ® Registered AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR AMERICA’S

Lola bowls a 43, but scores big with her stretch

Today’s 100% stretch cotton is as flexible as you are. Buy it for what it does. Buy it for what it doesn’t do. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com