Lilly Pulitzer at Fifty Brightening Closets and Spirits for Half a Century 2 Wwd, Tuesday, December 2, 2008

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LILLY PULITZER AT FIFTY BRIGHTENING CLOSETS AND SPIRITS FOR HALF A CENTURY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT In the Land of Pink and Green Lilly Pulitzer’s team brings a modern touch to a venerable niche.

The headquarters in King of Prussia, Pa.

By Julee Kaplan the tropical lifestyle. And inside is no different — Beaumont and IT WAS JUST ANOTHER DAY IN 1993 FOR Bradbeer have created a little piece of Palm Beach, Scott Beaumont and James Bradbeer Jr. The two complete with sand-colored carpeting, wicker fur- Pennsylvania businessmen were working a trade niture with Lilly-printed pillows, photos of models show representing Eagle’s Eye, a preppy sportswear wearing the brand on the beach and a canoe an- label run by venture capitalist Christopher Burch. It chored in the entrance way. was there, where Bradbeer said, he experienced an Upon entering the building, visitors are whisked “a-ha! moment.” into a world where everyone who passes is all smiles “We were at this trade show and saw that the — dressed head-to-toe in Lilly, from the ceo on down. Lilly Pulitzer brand was for sale and that Lilly Employees are the best walking advertisements for wanted someone to resurrect it,” Bradbeer said. the brand. They — and, by extension, their families — “For me, it seemed like a no-brainer. I grew up with live the Lilly lifestyle to the fullest. Pictures of their Lilly since my mom was such a big fan. She wore it children decked out in Lilly hang in sun-drenched — she even worked in a Lilly store — and I remem- cubicles (10 percent of the staff happens to be ex- ber how sad she was when the brand was retired pecting soon-to-be-Lilly-wearing babies), and design- back in the Eighties.” ers anticipate a new fabric shipment like kids look So, Beaumont and Bradbeer took the idea of pur- forward to Christmas morning. chasing the brand to Burch. He wasn’t interested. Central to the headquarters is a huge glassed-in “We decided pretty much right away that we were courtyard, made to look like Palm Beach’s iconic Vias going to do this ourselves,” Bradbeer said. “So we shopping area. In this courtyard are fully grown palm did. We spun off.” trees, cozy bright pink couches and chairs uphol- Both men lived in King of Prussia, Pa., so they stered in Lilly prints, an array of dining tables with decided to set up shop there — Beaumont would be pink and green chairs and even a giant juice stand chief executive and Bradbeer, president. While it was (which doubles as a fully stocked bar for events). The far from sunny Palm Beach, Fla., where the brand atrium serves as the main gathering point for meet- was founded and Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau still lives, ings, lunch and a place where anyone in the company Beaumont said that she was all for the idea of head- can go to relax before heading back to work. quartering in King of Prussia and encouraged them In addition, there’s a tremendous warehouse, to open outside of a major city — in a more low-key, fi lled with product ready to ship to retail — part- suburban area. nered and company-owned stores, as well as to a ros- “She thought it would be better for us to stay fo- ter of wholesale accounts including Bloomingdale’s, cused without the distractions of a city,” Beaumont Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman said. “After all, she started the brand in a small town, and Harrods in London. In a nod to customer care, so it made sense for us to follow that path.” a team of people in the warehouse steam and iron Today, the brand does operate a showroom in New the clothes, in assembly line fashion, before packing York on the 21st fl oor of 550 Seventh Avenue, but it them into boxes. is still headquartered in a 100,000-square-foot pink This is also the place where legions of Lilly Lovers stucco building in King of Prussia. Surrounded by from around the country fl ock to for the brand’s bi- Scott Beaumont and traditional white and gray offi ce buildings, the pink annual warehouse sale. It’s then and there that they James Bradbeer Jr. and white Lilly Pulitzer headquarters is a beacon of Continued on page 4 CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY

4 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT Life in Lilly Land Continued from page 2 get the best deals on new merchandise, but it’s also the perfect time for these devotees to gather and catch up with each other. “They literally spend the night in the parking lot,” Bradbeer said. “They love it, they look at pictures of each other’s kids, catch up on each others’ lives and then we open the doors and they clean us out.” It’s these dedicated fans of the brand (hundreds of thousands of them worldwide, according to Bradbeer) who keep the company growing. Today, industry sources estimate the Lilly Pulitzer brand brings in about $75 million in wholesale volume annually. That’s quite a feat for a company that had a sluggish start — the second time around — back in 1994. “We had our best year in business in 2001, especially in the months following Sept. 11,” Bradbeer said, noting that it’s the brightly colored printed clothing that brings its wearers to a “much happier place.” “I don’t know whether to be happy Shoes and bags are or sad about the downturn in the econ- The atrium at the headquarters. produced in-house. omy,” Bradbeer said. “Traditionally for us, it’s times like these when our business is quite good.” model. About 70 of the Jeeps were pre- with Carol Hochman, a new stationery nature Pulitzer prints throughout. This So, Bradbeer said, as the company ordered and, at $25,000 a pop, some of deal with Lifeguard Press, and three collection, wholesaling between $24 and celebrates the 50th year since Pulitzer the Signature store owners will not only fragrances, with PulsePoints LLC, that $425, is offered in limited edition runs. opened her juice stand in Palm Beach, be driving one, but they are also able to are ready to hit the market. (See relat- Jubilee infl uences the less-expensive he is planning for growth next year of sell them to their customers. (The Jeep ed story, page 14). merchandise meant for more everyday about 20 percent. And while he admits dealer nearest to the store will provide Its shoes and handbags, two prod- wearing in the Day Lilly group. that the brand always want to serve all proper paperwork and support). ucts that are often licensed, are pro- Day Lilly represents the biggest those dedicated Lilly Lovers (who reg- Also in the works are a pink-and- duced in-house. change for the brand. There are many ularly send him letters offering their green printed Steinway & Sons piano, That’s just a fraction of what the prints seen throughout, but overall, own ideas of what the company should a Hasbro Monopoly “Lilly-opoly” game company has in the pipeline. Now hit- they are not as busy as traditional Lilly do), now is a time to “celebrate our (where a player can buy property in ting retail for resort, which is tradition- designs — for example, there are tan past, but concentrate on moving the Palm Beach before “shifting” to the ally the brand’s strongest season, the and brown giraffe-print safari dresses, company forward.” next space) and a Florida’s Natural or- apparel has undergone a transforma- elephant-print tops, a blue and coral As brands such as Tory Burch, Milly, ange juice carton decked in Pulitzer’s tion. To help with this, Bradbeer has medallion-print silk dress and cotton Tibi and Trina Turk leapfrog Pulitzer famous prints. One million of the lim- brought in several seasoned designers tops in solid navy, white and pink. This in terms of growth, the company’s own- ited edition cartons will be distributed as consultants. collection, Bradbeer noted, was made to ers are planning an aggressive expan- to grocery stores nationwide. Gordon Thompson, former corporate become the “modern Lilly collection.” sion to stay in the game. The idea, Bradbeer said, is to contin- vice president of design and global cre- The resort line, which will be sold (Burch, incidentally, is the ex-wife ue to be a leader in their arena and to ative director at Nike Inc. and former year-round, focuses on traditional and of Christopher Burch. Her business, keep creating new things that honor the executive vice president and creative di- iconic Lilly prints — mostly in pink a direct competitor of Lilly Pulitzer, heritage begun by its founder, but still rector at Cole Haan, has joined Pulitzer and green, but some blue and yellow started in 2004.) excite a new group of shoppers as well. as a creative consultant, and Jeffrey manages to slip in as well. It includes “There are brands out there that are “Lilly was an innovator, a great Chow has signed on as a women’s wear sportswear, swimwear and dresses. just eating our lunch,” Bradbeer admit- American designer who made her way design consultant. Besides designing his As time goes on, Bradbeer said he ted during the company’s Jubilee cel- by being who she is,” he said. “Our job own ready-to-wear line, Chow was a de- plans to continue to carry on Lilly’s leg- ebration at the famous Breakers hotel is to keep doing just that, but in a mod- signer at Pucci and Perry Ellis. acy, and he looks forward to providing in Palm Beach last May. “But we are ern way.” The result is a collection segmented Lilly nation with new ideas. Now a fa- ready to compete with them head-on.” Bradbeer acknowledges that the into three categories — Jubilee, Day ther of four sons, it seems ironic that he To create some big buzz, the brand brand will never be for everyone, but Lilly and resort collections. Jubilee com- is president of all things pink and green has partnered with several other “great the firm is finding new ways to ex- prises high-end product for women, men and girly. American companies,” including Jeep tend the brand, including its licensed and children, including beaded and em- “I have four boys at home, but Lilly Wrangler, which last month launched a categories. Currently, there are four: broidered silk gowns and dresses, cash- was my fi rst child,” he said. “Lilly’s my fl oral-print, limited edition Lilly Pulitzer Eyewear with Kenmark, Sleepwear mere sweaters and tunics, with some sig- fi rst girl.”

Steinway & Sons’ colorful piano.

The ﬂ oral-print, limited edition Lilly Pulitzer jeep. TM & 2008 © Lilly Pulitzer ® /Kenmark Group. Congratulations Colorful Life! on50Years of Exclusive Licenseeof

Lilly Pulitzer Sunwear and Eyewear. Sunwear Lilly Pulitzer 6 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT ‘It’s Always Summer Somewhere’ Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau’s accidental business was as much about a resort spirit as about clothes.

By Sarah Haight LONG BEFORE “LIFESTYLE DRESSING” WAS DE rigueur, before Ralph and before Tory, there was an eyeliner-loving, toga-wearing lady named Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau. Today, she lives in a sprawling bungalow in her beloved Palm Beach, her raucous entertaining days over — in the Sixties and Seventies, the Pulitzer family’s kitchen sat 26 for dinner — but her trademark nonchalant wit intact. Perched on a chinoiserie-covered bench awaiting guests, the 77-year-old designer wears white slacks and a vintage Lilly shirt printed with white and yellow daisies, her feet bare but for the bright coral polish on her toes. (Rousseau never wears shoes unless she abso- lutely must, which means, begrudgingly, to restaurants and public functions.) “Time means nothing to me,” she said cheerfully by way of introduction. “Ten years, 15 years — I can’t believe that 50 years have gone by. I am what age I am, and it’s scary as hell!” Whether Rousseau can believe it or not, a half century has indeed passed since she launched the preppy girl’s warm-weather wardrobe — simple shifts, capri pants and tennis skirts in splashy pastel patterns — out of a little juice stand on Palm Beach’s Via Mizner. She sold the label in 1993 but continues to serve as a consultant to the company. The brand is now celebrating its Jubilee, complete with capsule collections for resort, spring and summer featuring bejew- eled silk dresses and embroidered blouses, as well as a retrospective of vintage pieces and photographs that this spring will tour major department stores and the company’s 20 boutiques (one stop will be its fi rst Manhattan outpost, which opened on the Upper East Side in May). “I can’t believe people are still interested in this story,” Rousseau said with a sigh. Never one to play by the rules (she considers underwear as much a nui- Lilly Pulitzer at her shop in the Seventies. sance as shoes and lined her Lilly shifts with muslin to encourage women to go au naturel), she would much rather talk about her three children and seven grand- orful and cotton and cool,” with slits up the sides for Ever mindful of her own days as an idle stay-at- children, “pretty linen” or her overgrown landscaping bending over. The bright pattern hid the juice stains. home mother, Rousseau shrewdly opened Lilly and the family of raccoons lurking in it than the busi- She even hung a few in the stand, selling them for Pulitzer boutiques in towns that her friends had ness that made her name iconic. Nevertheless, with a $22.50 apiece. moved to, moneyed locales like Philadelphia’s Main bit of coaxing, she jumps right in. The town went wild. “I couldn’t keep up with all the Line and La Jolla, Calif.: “Their husbands would be “It was a total change of life for me,” Rousseau orders!” she marveled. Soon Lilly was fl ying regularly shipped out to some city or town for their jobs, and said of starting her line. “I entered it with no business to Key West, where she created the prints along with then what is the poor girl gonna do? She needs a job! sense….It was just something that I all of a sudden a “gay as your hat” designing couple who ran a tex- She needs a Lilly shop!” took over.” tile business called Key West Fabrics. Together they By the early Eighties, however, the working-girl Rousseau’s story has been often told over the dreamed up lime green palm trees, bursting sunfl ow- wardrobe and a neutral palette had taken over fash- years: Born the middle of three daughters into a so- ers and sky blue shells, all whimsical motifs plucked ion; sales were fl agging, and Rousseau shut the whole cially prominent family in Roslyn, N.Y., Lilly McKim from Lilly’s sun-dappled life. thing down in 1984. attended all the right schools (Chapin, Miss Porter’s) Within a year, she was shipping orders to retail- “I just thought it would be nice to take a long with all the right people (Jacqueline Bouvier was a ers from Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue to snooze,” she said, shrugging. “Before, I never con- schoolmate at Miss Porter’s) before eloping in 1952, now-defunct specialty stores like Nan Duskin and centrated much on my kids — I mean, I was always at age 21, with newspaper scion Peter Pulitzer. The I. Magnin. In 1961, a Lilly Pulitzer shop opened off very much a part of their lives, but that kind of turned pair moved to Palm Beach, where Pulitzer operated a Worth Avenue. The unlikely designer’s fame was all around [when the business closed].” successful citrus grove business, and they quickly had but cemented a year later, when Lilly’s school pal, fi rst And then in 1993, the year her husband died, three children: Peter Jr., Liza and Minnie. The couple lady Jackie Kennedy, appeared in Life magazine wear- Rousseau was visited by Philadelphia businessmen threw fabulous parties, famously tossing water on the ing the Lilly Pulitzer Classic Shift. (While most of the James Bradbeer Jr. and Scott Beaumont. There had tiled kitchen fl oor of their great big house overlooking dresses cost about $25, Lilly charged Kennedy $75 for been a generational shift, said Bradbeer, and the Lake Worth so that everyone could do the twist after hers, “because that was made out of very expensive daughters and granddaughters of Lilly lovers were dinner. Lilly herself became known for “not giving curtain fabric.”) eager for those snappy prints and fl atter-every- a whit,” according to her longtime friend Susannah The Palm Beach social swirl that Rousseau recalls shape frocks. Cutts, accruing a menagerie of dogs, cats, monkeys — in which counts sat next to carpenters at her dinner “I think the customer wanted it to wake up,” said and even a calf (“Those awful animals,” Rousseau parties and, as she relishes telling, Kennedy spoon-fed Rousseau with a laugh; she sold the Lilly Pulitzer li- now refl ected). But then, in 1958, Lilly’s sunniness John-John on her kitchen fl oor — has an almost mythic cense to the pair’s fi rm, Sugartown Worldwide Inc. began to fade. “I had terrible anxiety attacks,” she quality, one she laments no longer exists. After a slow start, the revived label found its foot- says, “so I went to the nuthouse.” The nuthouse was “It was just a cozy bunch of people. It was a smaller ing, surprisingly, in the months after 9/11. “It was our a psychiatric hospital in Westchester County, N.Y. — town,” said Rousseau, who divorced Pulitzer in 1969 best year,” claimed Bradbeer, “because people want- “I can’t really remember how long I was there, but and later married Cuban lawyer Enrique Rousseau. ed something happy, and the Lilly attitude is always my cousin was there too, so that was nice” — and she Though Rousseau credits a confl uence of timing and ‘We’re pressing on.’” returned home armed with but one piece of medical luck for her success — with the Kennedy clan vaca- As for the original Lilly, these days she is most advice: Get a hobby. tioning in Palm Beach those days, “the light was shin- happy at home, where she still hosts Thanksgiving “Peter said, ‘Well, why don’t you sell my oranges?’” ing in this spot” — an unfl inching stubbornness clearly for nearly 50 on picnic tables near the pool (exes and recalled Rousseau, who promptly started pulling her served her label well. strangers welcome). Asked if she misses the business, station wagon up her tony neighbors’ driveways, de- Told by one retailer that she had to start making fall Rousseau shakes her head. “No one could tell me what livering fruit. The stand quickly followed, though Lilly clothes, Rousseau replied, “Oh, but you don’t under- to do or what not to do, because it was all up here,” she discovered her crisp white shirts and shorts were be- stand, it’s always summer somewhere.” said, pointing to her temple. “And I don’t know if you coming ruined with juice stains. Thus she introduced what just may have been could do what I did today, because it’s more competi- “So I went to the fi ve-and-dime, bought some fabric, one of the fi rst resort collections, a year-round sum- tive, and obviously you need a lot more education than took it to the seamstress, and she did it up,” Rousseau mery lineup that grew to include men’s, children’s I had.” She smiled mischievously: “But, oh my God, I said, noting that she wanted dresses that were “col- and swimwear, with sales peaking at $15 million. had a terrifi c time.” WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008 7

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I entered it with no “business sense….It was just something that I all of a sudden took over. — Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau”

At home in Palm Beach in October. SHOP PHOTO BY HOWELL CONANT/TIMEPIX; PORTRAIT BY STEFAN SVEENSSON STEFAN BY HOWELL CONANT/TIMEPIX; PORTRAIT SHOP PHOTO BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT

Lilly Pulitzer surrounded by prints, circa the Seventies. Spring 2008 Color My World No matter the year or season, Lilly Pulitzer’s calling card is

cheerful designs. ▼ Spring 2007

The Jubilee collection. Lilly in a seashell dress. Resort WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008 9 2006

WWD.COM ▼ 2006

▼ Resort 2007 SpringSpring 20200505

Swimwear and cover-ups

from 2004. ▼

SpringSpring 20020077 ▼

Spring ▼ 2004

The fall 2008 Day Lilly collection. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT The Design Room Coming up with new riffs on the famous prints.

IT’S FRIDAY AFTERNOON AT THE LILLY Pulitzer headquarters in King of Prussia, Pa., and a group of five young designers is gathered around a table with piles of photos from magazines, blank white canvases and every shade of watercolor paint imaginable. It looks a little like summer camp, but this is no typical arts-and-crafts session — this is just one of the many ways the design team experiments and finds new ways to translate vintage Lilly prints into fresh, modern designs. “Aren’t they amazing?” asked Janie Schoenborn, design director for print, pattern, accessories and footwear and creative advisor at the company. “Our biggest challenge is always to take something famil- iar and make it look new. But that’s what we do — we add just enough newness, whether it’s by tweaking a fabric or adding a new style with a classic print.” Another challenge, she said, is coming up with ideas for fall seasons. Typically, fall isn’t the best season for the brand, especially since it’s known for its beachy pink and green sundresses, tunics and biki- nis. Schoenborn, who also works closely with Linda Bradbury, senior vice president of product, ﬁ nds a way to get around that with her bright pink cable-knit sweaters and animal-print winter boots — lined in bright pink, of course. To recharge and stay inspired,

Schoenborn said she and her CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY team like to visit Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau’s home in Palm Designers at play: experimenting with color, pattern and design in the atrium; Linda Bradbury, Beach, Fla., as much as pos- and Janie Schoenborn (inset). sible. Her home is fi lled to the brim with kitschy tchotchkes swaying palm tree on a plate to go with my Lilly wardrobe. — from a giant fish-shaped in her kitchen, for example, “I thought I would never leave my own company, soup tureen to a giggling mon- inspired the embroidered and I certainly never thought I would move away key statue, and even her own palm trees on a pair of cor- from New York, but it’s the best decision I’ve made. Statue of Liberty in her back- duroy pants. I’m really in my dream job.” yard. Any of these items can Schoenborn also stays in- But with the dream job comes a bit of pressure easily inspire a new pattern — a spired by working in her print from the hundreds of thousands of Lilly Lovers who room at the headquarters — a keep in touch with Schoenborn. space fi lled with thousands of vin- “When we make something they don’t like, we tage Lilly dresses and print swatches hear about it,” she said. “They complain about the fi t, from years past. Each print, Schoenborn or that we cut the style in the wrong print — they are pointed out, has Lilly’s signature hidden a very vocal group of women.” somewhere in them. On the fl ip side, Schoenborn said it can also be re- “People love to fi nd the name in the prints,” she warding, since she hears a lot of positive feedback said. “Some of them are hidden really well.” as well. Schoenborn said she often hears stories of Schoenborn, a seasoned designer and self-pro- women who wear a Lilly dress for their wedding, claimed Lilly Lover, joined the fi rm about three years dress their babies in the brand to go home from the ago. She used to own and run her own handbag com- hospital or simply do not go a day without sporting pany called Buzz by Jane Fox but decided to close it something Lilly. An when James Bradbeer Jr., president of Lilly Pulitzer, “It’s crazy to think that we can change people’s inspiration came knocking. lives, make them happier, with these clothes,” she board. “Lilly didn’t have handbags,” Schoenborn recalled. said. “But we really do.” “I am such a fan of the brand, so I made my own bags — Julee Kaplan Do the Bright Thing LILLY PULITZER HAS TEAMED UP WITH A SERIES OF CELEBRITIES TO LAUNCH A Looks Colorful Cause: Celebrity Designer Program. Lilly-supporting celebrity moms — Gwyneth created by Paltrow, Brooke Shields, Debra Messing, Marcia Cross, Angie Harmon, Bridget Moynahan, Gwyneth Catherine Bell, Elisabeth Hasselbeck and Garcelle Beauvais-Nilon — have come together Debra Paltrow for in honor of the brand’s milestone to create limited edition, one-of-a-kind pieces to raise Messing’s the EBMRF. funds and awareness for epidermolysis bullosa, a rare inherited skin disease that affects designs. young children. These celebrities each worked with the company’s design team to create limited edition mother-daughter/son looks using iconic Lilly Pulitzer prints. From dresses and tunics to swimsuits and cover-ups, the coordinating ensembles are meant to capture the spirit of the brand. The exclusive designs created for A Colorful Cause are part of the brand’s summer 2009 Jubilee collection and a percentage of proceeds from sales of the designs will support the Epidermolysis Bullosa Medical Research Foundation. “Lilly Pulitzer’s support, as well as the participation of all the moms, will go a long way in our continued efforts to fi nd a cure for EB,” said Andrea Pett-Joseph, executive vice president of EBMRF. “Through this program and the designs these women have created, we’re able to give Lilly Lovers a look toward our next 50 years,” Bradbeer said. “We are honored to have these infl uential celebrities as partners in our Jubilee, but we are more humbled by their efforts to help raise funds through A Colorful Cause for our friends at EBMRF.” — J.K.

12 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008

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WWD SPECIAL REPORT The Whole Package Staying on-message in Lilly Pulitzer stores.

By Cecily Hall James Bradbeer Jr. and Scott Beaumont bought and reintroduced the brand The store at the King THERE’S NO SUCH THING AS A CRISIS under parent company Sugartown of Prussia Mall in in Lilly Pulitzer’s world. Worldwide Inc. One of the fi rst steps? Pennsylvania. With a brand as bright and colorful Figuring out an effective retail strategy, as this, what could possibly shake things since neither executive had an exten- up? A global fi nancial meltdown? Nope. sive retail background. Sept. 11? Nice try. In fact, the period “Brad and I no way pretend to be following 9/11 was a successful time for great retail experts,” said Beaumont, Lilly, according to company president chief executive officer. “When we James Bradbeer Jr., who noted that con- formed the business, we knew we were sumers were perhaps turning to Lilly’s going to need help with our retail side, bright colors subconsciously in an effort because one of the things we found early to turn their own moods around. Those on was that this customer likes to shop very colors are what have defi ned this in a specialty environment, where she brand since its inception 50 years ago. gets good service and sees a high assort- The retail story of Lilly Pulitzer, now ment of Lilly [merchandise].” based in King of Prussia, Pa., began in There are a couple of reasons for 1958 in Palm Beach, Fla., when social- that, he noted. Lilly is a specialty brand ite Lilly Pulitzer started selling orange in terms of distribution, the products of- juice from her husband’s groves at a fered and how consumers think about it. little stand. She created her own line of But the customer likes to see Lilly with He also pointed out that Lilly consum- plans to open up their own store, much colorful dresses to hide the juice stains a lot of assortment because it gives her ers often will want a skirt in six different like a franchise. Pulitzer management that inevitably splattered her clothes, confi dence that her party dress will be patterns — or they’ll want the same pat- has an evaluation process to determine and they were noticed by such fashion unique — even if she’s in a place where tern on six different pieces of apparel. which retailers and plans are best suit- icons as Jackie Kennedy. To this day, many other people may be donning After opening its first company- ed for the job. they are considered timeless, and their Lilly attire. “A lot of people who wear owned retail shop in Key West, Fla., in “The people we chose had to really devout consumer following is as large Lilly congregate with others who wear 1996, Beaumont and Bradbeer made a know this brand, have retail experience as ever. Lilly,” Beaumont said. “And Lilly her- decision to begin introducing “signature and they’d have to know their communi- Fast-forward to 1994, a decade after self always told us that, when you assort stores” — now called “Via Shops” — to ty,” explained Beaumont. “Lilly is very Pulitzer shuttered the business and re- the line, think in terms of people going enhance the focus of its retail presence. much a social-networking community. tired, when two friends and entrepre- to a party where every person wants to Via shops are run by independent re- People who seek this brand out to do a neurs (and longtime fans of the brand) be in Lilly.” tailers who apply and submit business signature Lilly store in their town are

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Your noteworthy performance Bravo! deserves one word:

Here’s to 50 MORE years of Colorful Life Happy 50th Anniversary Lilly Pulitzer®

us.kpmg.com WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008 13

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Lilly Pulitzer’s Madison Avenue store opened in May. Totes and boots on display. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY probably at the epicenter of their com- and skill set led them to assist the sig- a shop in East Hampton, N.Y. Most re- stores, including Neiman Marcus, Saks munity of Lilly Lovers.” nature stores. cently, a Boca Raton, Fla., location was Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor. WWD Beaumont and Bradbeer chose to “We could put out a great catalogue, unveiled. The total company-operated reported in March that the brand has open Via Shops in locations, such as get customers to our Web site, and help store count now sits at 21 locations in made a push internationally: Bradbeer Palm Beach, Fla., Nantucket, Mass., and our independent retailers with signage,” nine states. Average square footage of said at the time that the brand had Westport, Conn., where competition was he said. “These successes within our these stores is 3,800 square feet, with an launched at Harrods in London, marking light and the brand was in demand. own stores helped our independent re- employee count of about 10. its foray into Europe. The Lilly Pulitzer Today, the company boasts 75 signa- tailers to do a better business, too.” In general, retail prices average $150, collection at Harrods includes women’s ture stores nationwide. He added that they wanted some but merchandise ranges from fragrance and children’s apparel. In 2004, Pulitzer launched a two- stores to have flagship characteris- bottles at $48 to cocktail dresses for $428. While Lilly does have a couple of re- pronged approach to retail that includes tics — larger square footage, different And their performance? “Most cor- tail spaces under consideration for 2009, company-owned and -operated units. merchandise and higher foot trafﬁ c porate stores do well in excess of $1 at this point the brand is staying mum as Beaumont said the idea behind the — like the current store at the King of million per door, and overall growth in to potential locations. But lillypulitzer. company-run stores was to give the Prussia Mall. the retail channel will be 9 percent this com has gone fully transactional. As of ﬁ rm the tools necessary to know their In May, Lilly opened its first year,” said Beaumont. last month, Lilly Lovers from anywhere customers better. And they also real- Manhattan store at 1020 Madison Besides its Via and company-operated can purchase their favorite items from ized that their newfound knowledge Avenue (3,600 square feet) along with shops, the collection also can be found at the brand’s Web site.

HERE’S TO FIFTY MORE YEARS OF COLORFUL LIFE. HAPPY 50TH ANNIVERSARY

CONGRATULATIONS FROM OBLON, SPIVAK INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY LAW

www.oblon.com | 703-413-3000 14 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008 Sleepwear with Carole Hochman. SECTION II

WWD SPECIAL REPORT All the Details Lots of categories keep building the Lilly lifestyle.

Stationery with Lifeguard Press.

By Julie Naughton Fragrance with Eyewear PulsePoints. BRAND EXTENSION IS A SIGNIFICANT PART OF THE GROWTH STRATEGY with for Lilly Pulitzer as it begins its second half-century. Kenmark. Pulitzer offers a wide array of accessories, from shoes and boots to all sizes and shapes of handbags, totes and wallets, scarves and some home products like pillows and holiday ornaments. These, however, are all produced in-house. “We have a great design team internally who really understands our consumer and her needs, so we feel completely comfortable keeping certain categories, which are usually licensed out, in-house. By designing for these categories in-house, we are able to be consistent with our resort chic brand image,” said James Bradbeer Jr., president of Lilly Pulitzer. The brand’s licensing program is an intimate group: Sleepwear with Carole Hochman, eyewear with Kenmark and the two latest, custom stationery and gifts with Lifeguard Press and fragrances with PulsePoints LLC. In September, Pulitzer licensed Lifeguard for invitations and stationery, party goods and gifts, from wrapping paper and bags to partyware, cocktail napkins and drink umbrellas, offi ce accessories like desk sets, diaries, notebooks, frames and calendars, among others. “We’re introducing an entirely new category for our consumer…[and] telling her we understand her lifestyle needs,” said Bradbeer. Todd Ferrier, founder and ceo of Lifeguard, added, “We believe this line ex- presses Lilly Pulitzer’s innate sense of style and fun.” Pulitzer leapt into the fragrance business just this fall with a trio of scents — and department and specialty stores in the U.S., including Bloomingdale’s and Lilly the company is juicing the market for all it’s worth. Pulitzer Via Shops, in early November and will be in about 1,200 doors, including Dubbed Beachy, Squeeze and Wink, the fragrances began rolling into about 800 selected Macy’s, by this spring. Certainly it’s not business as usual to launch three scents at once — particularly when the company has never even done one — but that’s fi ne with Bradbeer. “This launch is very specifi cally not like everyone else’s,” Bradbeer said. “We’re not in the basics business — patterns and bright colors are part of our DNA. Over the years, we’ve met a lot of people who think they know Lilly as a brand, that come to us saying, ‘This type of fragrance is trendy now, this is what will sell.’ But Alison Farn understood the brand, and like us, had a clear vision of what could fi ll a gap in the market.” Farn is president of PulsePoints LLC, which makes the scents, and a longtime Lilly Lover. “This brand is so much about Lilly herself,” said Farn. “She was never doing it as a commercial enter- prise, and this business is not as commercially driven as others. This company has a real spirit and it is true to its roots. This wasn’t about Lilly or us going out and looking for a license. It just became the right time to do fragrances.

Lilly makes people smile — especially in“ a tough economy — and we think we’ve captured that in a bottle. — Alison Farn, PulsePoints” LLC

“Lilly makes people smile — especially in a tough economy — and we think we’ve captured that in a bottle,” Farn continued. “We see this as a very long-term and healthy relationship between PulsePoints and Lilly Pulitzer. Signature fragrances are just the beginning.” The scents are named for iconic Pulitzer moments. Wink is a fl irty fl oral named for one of Pulitzer’s favorite sayings — “Wear pink and make the boys wink.” Squeeze, a reference to the juice stands at which Pulitzer began selling her fi rst shifts to friends like Jackie Kennedy, is a citrus scent. And Beachy, inspired by Pulitzer’s Palm Beach, Fla., residence, is intended to be reminiscent of the beach. Wink has top notes of pear nectar, pink freesia and lush gardens; a heart of rose bouquet, white lily and violet fi elds, and a drydown of amber crystals and sensual musk. Squeeze’s top notes are of exotic lychee, pink grapefruit and red currant; its heart is of lotus blossom and wild rose petals, and its drydown is of sun-drenched woods and water musk. Beachy opens with sliced watermelon, sunny citrus and marine air accord; has a heart of jasmine blossom, tiare fl ower and lush frangipani, and a drydown of salt crystals, golden amber and sweet vanilla. Wink was concocted by Cecile Krakower, Squeeze by Mathilde Bijaoul and Beachy by Karine Dubreil. Each scent has eaux de parfum in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $48 and 3.4 oz. for $68; a body lotion, $38, and a candle, $34. Packaging is signature Lilly: for the line’s debut, Janie Schoenborn, design director for print and pattern, brand presentation, and accessories and footwear for Lilly Pulitzer, created six patterns in signature colors WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2008 15

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specifi cally for the fragrance collection. The bottles themselves were inspired by architecture on Palm Beach’s Via Mizner, the site of Pulitzer’s original They Are Saying: ‘Lilly’s the Real Deal’ juice stand, said Theresa Plavoukos, vice president of marketing for PulsePoints. IT’S OFTEN SAID THAT THERE’S VERY LITTLE THAT’S TRULY “Lilly Pulitzer…Palm Beach at its best — a timeless American style!” In store, Pulitzer-clad salespeople original in fashion these days. But when Lilly Pulitzer fi rst offered —Diane von Furstenberg sample the scents via scented ribbons her sunny prints, there wasn’t much like them anywhere, and they and vials on cards, said Farn. At coun- turned into a fashion and lifestyle brand. Here, in honor of its “One of my earliest memories of fashion is my mom wearing a lime ter, the brand serves juice — a play jubilee, the company collected thoughts from some designers and green printed shift dress at our country club in Weston, Connecticut. on the industry jargon for scent, and fashion-world observers about the Lilly phenomenon. Lilly Pulitzer was a summer uniform and always defi ned summer style.” also a key reference to Lilly Pulitzer’s — Reed Krakoff juice-stand roots. “Lilly Pulitzer created a very distinct look — her personal style of Industry sources estimated that the bright colors and prints has an important place in fashion.” “Wearing Lilly Pulitzer turns everyone into a bunch of fl owers: What collection could do at least $5 million at — Ralph Lauren could be more optimistic and fabulous than that?” retail in its fi rst year on counter. While — Simon Doonan it’s still early, Farn noted that the three “Lilly Pulitzer had the fantastic idea to do her collection all in fl oral scents seem to be selling equally. cottons, which became timeless and classic for the summer.” “Lilly is an American original. She created a look that captured the Lilly Pulitzer manufactures cosmet- — Carolina Herrera essence of a particular place, time and lifestyle. When you think ics bags — a business which the compa- of classic American resortwear, you cannot help but think of Lilly ny entered in late 2006 — and Bradbeer “Lilly Pulitzer is one of the few designers worthy of copying. You Pulitzer. Her embrace of color, print and pared-down silhouettes are has said that he has his eye on other can’t be an American designer without a little nod to Lilly.” always an inspiration.” categories. “We have additional [beau- — Isaac Mizrahi — Trina Turk ty] categories on our long-term list,” he said in August, “but for now, we’re “Lilly Pulitzer was one of the fi rst to take a personal look and “Lilly is an inspiration as a designer and business leader because going to concentrate on our fragrances lifestyle and turn it into a brand. Her cheery and colorful prints are she managed to create an amazing lifestyle brand based on her own and making that business as strong as much imitated, but she is a true original.” life in Palm Beach and turned it into a success that still stands it can be.” Such additions would be at — Kate Spade out as unique and relevant. There are few brands today that are as least 12 to 24 months out, he said. authentic as Lilly Pulitzer.” Farn agreed. “We want this business “With her bold prints and sunny colors, Lilly taught the world about — Holly Dunlap to be healthy 10 years from now,” she Palm Beach style. Like a Levi’s 501, a Lilly shift can work on added. “It’s not about coming out with everyone from age seven to 70. A true American classic.” “Talk about turning lemons into lemonade! From citrus libations to another fl anker next year. We’ve en- — Michael Kors the prettiest preppy creations, she created a sunny — and status-y tered the category with a strong state- — world we all aspired to. Lilly is the true Pulitzer Prize.” ment, and we plan for these scents to “Lilly understood her client and her lifestyle because she was an — Jeffrey Banks be classics.” inherent part of that world. Her enduring love for Palm Beach and — With contributions from that society celebrated casual dressing and brought resort clothing “Lilly Pulitzer makes everyone look happier, richer and more fun- Dianne M. Pogoda to ‘all’ of America.” loving than they probably are. Lilly equals sunshine.” — Vera Wang — Jonathan Adler