2018 Prism Vol 2 51018 Single Pages.Indd

VOL 2 – 2018

AGTA Kicks Off Silicosis Abatement Project in Jaipur

Garcelle Beauvais: Classic Style with a Colorful Twist

Alexandrite – A Russian Relic

Firm Member Profile Avi Raz, A&Z Pearls

The Stars Align for a Colorful 2018

Affiliate Member Profile Jeff Hapeman, Earth’s Treasury

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure.

Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America ® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA ® is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in GemologyTM Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931 Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION EDUCATION INSTRUMENTS LABORATORY RESEARCH 2

ADT180036_Prism_AGTA_Research_AD_FINAL.indd 1 4/5/18 2:06 PM MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS

The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit association of United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured Pearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,300 members representing leading board of colored gemstone and cultured Pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, directors designers, colored Diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals. AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing President to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics and full disclosure of gemstone Jeffrey Bilgore enhancements. Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC Vice President Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services: Members are Bruce Bridges eligible to exhibit at some of the most important annual events in the gemstone Bridges Tsavorite and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA GemFair™ Pramod Agrawal Las Vegas, and AGTA Pavilion at the JA New York Summer Show. Shanu G., Inc. Secr eta ry Members are featured in the AGTA Source Directory, both the printed and Shekar Shah online versions. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network Real Gems, Inc. of fellow gemstone professionals. Treasurer Avi Raz Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry, A&Z Pearls, Inc. gemstone and jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism. Directors Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Charles Carmona Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express®, FedEx Declared Value, Guild Laboratories FedEx Office, Association Health Programs and car rentals with Avis and Budget. Kimberly Collins Kimberly Collins Colored Gems Members can also access our AGTA Online Community and gain valuable ™ Jonathan Gad knowledge from our AGTA GemFair Tucson Seminar USBs and eLearning GAD Enterprises Platform. Bill Heher Rare Earth Mining Co., Inc. The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from the competition. Gina Latendresse American Pearl Company, Inc. Prism: For further information or to advertise, please contact: Kusam Malhortra K&K International American Gem Trade Association Jeff Mason 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840, Dallas, TX 75234 Mason-Kay, Inc. T: 800-972-1162 David Nassi F: 214-742-7334 100% Natural [email protected] Hemant Phophaliya www.agta.org AG Color, Inc. www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com Simon Watt @agta_gems Mayer & Watt COVER:Garcelle Beauvais Necklace: Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj - 18K tricolored gold and platinum Past President “Northern Lights” pendant featuring a 3.79 ct. specialty-cut rubellite Tourmaline Ruben Bindra accented with baguette Diamonds. Earrings: Mark Loren, Mark Loren Designs, B&B Fine Gems Inc. - 14K yellow and white gold earrings featuring polyhedral Agate druzy slices and green Tourmalines, pink Topaz, Amethysts and Diamonds. Bracelet: Randy Chief Executive Officer Coffin, Somewhere In The Rainbow - 18K white and 20K rose gold “Temptress” Douglas K. Hucker bracelet featuring a 18.21 ct. tricolored Topaz accented with multicolored Sapphires American Gem Trade Association and Diamonds. Ring #1: Omi Prive, Somewhere In The Rainbow - 18K rose gold “Le ‘Elegance’” ring featuring a red Tourmaline accented with Diamonds and tsavorite Garnets. Ring #2: Beatrix Laura Jessner, B&W Jewels - 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 13.60 ct. Mandarin Garnet accented with square and baguette Diamonds. Clothing: Balmain – Halter Top Knit Jumpsuit, available as Saks Fifth Avenue. Photographer: Brian Bowen Smith for Copious Management. Producer and Fashion Stylist: Tod Hallman for THP Fashion Inc.. Hair: Kendra Garvey for Six K. Makeup: Ernesto Casillas for Only Agency. Manicurist: Carla Kay.

1 1 FROM THE PRESIDENT jeffrey bilgore

LOOKING FORWARD @ AGTA….. As we turn to springs’ renewal with all its optimism and opportunity, we also head into wedding and anniversary season. For sure the business environment is better than in recent memory; hopeful we all will see both flower and invoices bloom! @ AGTA we have been more than quite busy, always working to fulfill the Association’s primary purpose (see By Laws #1), to increase commerce for our members. The staff and the Board have been working non-stop to fulfill this mission focusing on 3 areas: Shows, Promo- tions and Website. OUR NEW AGTA WEBSITE IS LAUNCHED! On April 25. AGTA had a social media takeover for our new website. The website is a huge tool for us as an organization and for each of our companies. The consumer side will provide education about color and why buying from AGTA members is the smartest choice. On the members’ side we can now control our company’s information and public face on our own. This will make each of our companies’ show management and more in our own hands. The site will also have a strong social media presence with Instagram, Face Book, Linked in and Blogs to keep everyone up to date, minute by minute. This new interactive site provides AGTA an exciting direct link for B2B, B2C and with each other. A BIG HAT’S OFF AND THANK YOU to the Promotions Committee – Kim Collins, Simon Watt, Gaurav Shah, Bruce Bridges, Bill Heher, Niveet Nagpal, Paula Crevoshay, David Nassi, Danielle Barber, Sam Sulimanov and Ruben Bindra ………AND to Doug, Sheri, Kami, Megan, Lauren and Team Dallas!!!!! For the past several years we have been focusing the Promotions efforts on a single theme – BUY AGTA – the concept is simple: that the AGTA supply chain is the THE BEST source for gemstones and pearls. From importer/dealer to manufacturer/designer to retailer, each AGTA member adds knowledge, expertise and great value in every sale. This is the best route for our retail partners and for the consumer. All of our promotional efforts are wrapped in this theme. With the website complete all focus will be on this themed outreach. AGTA’s social media presence is the BEST in the business (yea, Megan and Lauren) – this will be greatly enhanced and expanded in the year(s) going forward. Shows are why AGTA got started and have been keeping everyone quite busy. Well to the point, Doug, Mary Lou, Kimberly and the team in Dallas are currently working on 3 trade shows simultaneously…Las Vegas 2018, Tucson 2019 and Las Vegas 2019. The only one that is “easy” is Las Vegas 2018! For Tucson 2019, we are adding a dedicated designer pavilion in the upstairs Ballroom. This involves realigning existing designers and adding more. The AGTA GemFair™ at the Tucson Convention Center is the heart of the Tucson Gem Shows experience. Our goals are to create exciting opportunities for our exhibitors and buyers – to give the buyers every reason they can to stay at GemFair for as long as we can keep them enticed and happy. The GemHall is now an open opportunity for old or new Firm members to come and “be in the room.” For the first time in a decade, we have space available. It may take a year or two for this to settle in but the opportunity is great for all. The Association has planned a major marketing effort to tell buyers where exhibitors are and the exciting changes that are being made. Now to Las Vegas – the move to the Las Vegas Convention Center in 2019 is going to be one of the best moves AGTA has ever made. The booths are filling up nicely; we have an amazing floor plan. Co-exhibiting with the Las Vegas Antique Watch & Jewelry Show brings

FROM THE PRESIDENT - CONTINUED jeffrey bilgore

TWO PROFESSIONAL show-producing organizations together. We can now show in Las Vegas for less than it costs to show in Tucson! The first role of AGTA is to create business opportunities where our members can sell their merchandise and make a profit. AGTA’s goal as a show producer HAS ALWAYS been to make sure that the exhibitors can be successful. I am sure that this focus is quite different than the other shows in Las Vegas. We will have a Designer & Manufacturing Pavilion, we have a hard wall section for gems traders and an overall uniform look of soft walls for everyone else. The package is an AMAZING value. I am quite sure that the exhibitors and buyer experience at this new venue is going to be an incredible improvement!!!!! These are just a few of the efforts being made by AGTA. AGTA has also been quite active in various Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) efforts. As you all will read in this issue (page 6), AGTA has had its feet on the ground in Jaipur regarding our Silicosis Abatement program. We are waiting for specific results but are quite sure that these efforts will help raise awareness, offer remedies and help laborers in our trade to live a longer and healthier life. Many thanks to Bruce Bridges for developing the protocols, Pramod Agrawal for a special trip to Jaipur to host and guide us, to Doug Hucker for his ten-day journey, and to many others who opened their factories and minds. It is a true example of the AGTA community that its commitment to making our trade better can extend half way around the world like this. One thing for sure is that the results of these efforts will go beyond our trade and set standards and methods to guide and help others. This past year, we also helped flood victims in Rathnapura and victims of Hurricane Harvey in Houston! Sustainability and supply chain performance is measured in many ways, for being green to CSR there are many ways that an organization like AGTA can pay it forward and give back. Every AGTA members should be proud that its Board of Directors and staff are committed to making things better for business and for life because surely there is more to this than just the next sale. Once again, this year it has been an honor to work with this Board and the team in Dallas; we do so with every member interests in mind each and every day.

See you in Vegas!

Warmest wishes to all –

Jeffrey Bilgore AGTA President

AGTA KICKS-OFF SILICOSIS ABATEMENT PROJECT IN JAIPUR douglas k. hucker

n recent years the awareness of silicosis AGTA Silicosis Abatement Project as an occupational health hazard within the The program, developed and funded by AGTA jewelry industry has generated increased and supported by a generous grant from The concern. Silicosis is an occupational lung Gemstone and Sustainable Development Knowledge disease caused by the inhalation of respira- Hub1, acquired the necessary equipment and de- ble dust containing crystalline silica. The condi- veloped protocols for oversight and testing. We tionI is caused by inhaling engaged a Toronto-based too much silica over a NGO, Workplace Health long period of time. Silica Without Borders (WHWB)2 is a highly common, crystal-like mineral found in 1 sand, rock and quartz. Sili- The Gemstone and Sustainable Development Knowledge Hub aims ca is especially prevalent in to facilitate learning across the full gemstone cutting centers supply chain of colored gemstones that produce faceted gem- from mines to markets, and improve stones as well as cabochons the sector’s contributions to sus- and beads from quartz, tainable development. The hub is a chalcedony and other sil- collaboration between the University of Delaware (USA), the University ica gem materials. During of Queensland (Australia), and the the cutting process, the University of Lausanne (Switzerland), silica becomes airborne supported by the Tiffany & Co. and is inhaled by the cut- Foundation. We are also working with ters and often times family museums, gem miners, gemologists, Jaipur, India members, if not properly controlled. Its effects dealers, jewelry manufacturers, grass- roots organizations and development agencies in this endeavor. include chronic respiratory debilitation and can The Gemstone Knowledge Hub seeks to carry out research and often lead to death. Our hope is that proper connect with past and existing initiatives across four major themes education, reducing exposure to airborne silica, that have been developed through consultations with industry, introduction of silica dust abatement tools, and academia and gem mining communities. These four themes are: engaging local health providers in impacted • Mining and geology of colored gemstone deposits areas can deliver pronounced reduction in the • Processing and manufacturing of colored gemstones • Gender analysis of colored gemstone supply chains spread of the disease. • Economic Development Impact of the colored gemstone The American Gem Trade Association sector. (AGTA), led by Bruce Bridges, worked with The first signature project focuses on health and safety issues in the the United States Mine Safety and Health gemstone cutting sector, and how such issues could be addressed Department and created a well-conceived and mitigated. This module will focus on India. https://www. approach which can be implemented in urban sustainablegemstones.org 2 or remote circumstances. AGTA also believes Workplace Health Without Borders, a not-for-profit organization, that if we can develop a viable solution to the seeks to address occupational health and safety issues around the silicosis threat, it will lead to much broader world. WHWB intends to incorporate ideas from and work with other groups who have been engaged in setting up similar organizations support within the entire jewelry industry. In with a global reach. WHWB works to engage volunteers in improv- 2016, President Jeff Bilgore, formed an ad hoc ing workplace health in regions of the world with under-served committee of himself, Bridges, Pramod Agraw- worker populations requiring our assistance. Our focus is to provide al and Douglas Hucker to devise a program these workers with technical assistance, training and skills develop- to research the issue and develop an effective ment to help them to develop the capacity and local infrastructure to abatement program. manage and improve health conditions in their workplaces. http:// www.whwb.org/

6 7 to provide expertise in occupational health and Pramod and his family did an incredible job hygiene and to assist in the coordination of of hosting us and making all the arrangements testing protocol on the ground and post-mon- for our meetings. Pramod and Chikki had a van itoring analysis of results. The program entails and driver to haul us all over town making sure the selection of a variety of cutting facilities we weren’t offending anyone with our behavior with about 25 cutters each. Additionally, since and the like. Pramod opened all the doors for us, much of the cutting of gemstones is done in making dozens of phone calls and arranging for private homes, several contract cutters working visits that we never would have been able to have from their homes will be included in the pro- if not for his name and stature. He fed us like he gram. Our goal is to educate the local cutting was a surrogate mother and made sure (thanks, community about the risks of unprotected Pramod) that we didn’t eat what we shouldn’t. The cutting practices, supply the basic cost effective success of this project owes a tremendous thanks tools that can be used to greatly reduce the risk to Pramod and his family for all their efforts. of silicosis, provide expertise on the ground to Right from Top: monitor and measure the effectiveness of the Cutting small tools, engage health care providers to support gemstones; the program and to report any measurable Demonstrating health benefits that result. N100 disposable respirator mask; The program itself is not intended to solve N100 filter mask. the problem that exists within the gemstone cutting community, but rather to devise a workable solution that, depending upon its effectiveness, will be more fully funded and introduced on a much greater scope in both India and other major cutting centers around the globe. The team arrived in Jaipur on February 24th, transported our equipment to the hotel and began planning our next ten days of testing. On Sunday we had a day of rest and the remainder of the team from WHWB and the University of Queensland arrived.

Left Top: (L to R): Carmel Bofinger, University of Queensland; Paul Bozek, WHWB; Lynda Lawson, University of Queensland; Pramod Agrawal, Shanu Gems; Doug Hucker, AGTA; Chitrang (Chikki) Agrawal (Pramod’s nephew); and Pradeep Agrawal. Left Bottom: Jaipur’s famed Johari Bazaar.

Our first stop was at Pramod’s factory, in the heart of Johari Bazar, the center of the fabled Pink City.

8 9 Most of the first day was spent in Pramod’s Right: Factory factory where the team calibrated the airborne cutting African blue particle testing equipment and got a top-to- Chalcedony bottom introduction to the process that gems (Aquaprase). go through in a cutting factory from cobbing the rough to remove flaws, preforming, dop- ping, polishing and finishing the gem. It was one of the most educational days I have had in my (redacted) years in the business.

Left Top: Carmel, Siddhraj Gohil (Sid),

and Paul doing inside and outside air measurements.

The time we spent in Pramod’s factory gave us an opportunity to prepare for our visits to other cutting factories. The WHWB and University of Queensland crew got a sense of where and how to set-up measuring equipment and begin to establish baselines for air measure- ment and a comparison of results received by each piece of equipment. At that point we were joined by our locally engaged employee Sid- dhraj Gohil, a grad student from Gujarat who will be working for the project on an ongoing basis for the next few months. That afternoon, Pramod introduced us to a colleague just down the backstreet who was cutting a production of blue Chalcedony polishing devices were perhaps creating noise (Aquaprase [sic]) from Africa. We noticed in this levels that could be creating hearing degra- room that the cutters were wearing masks, but dation over a long period of time. AGTA is they were simple masks typically used to pre- currently reviewing potential sound suppression vent sneezes and coughs from spraying..It was devices that could be introduced to lessen the here that we distributed a couple of our N100 impact on the workers’ hearing. masks for the cutters to use and the reception On Wednesday we visited a shop cutting was incredible. We anticipated that the cutters Corundum, both the massive Indian Ruby this would resist wearing the masks because of is cabbed, also some star material, and massive comfort, but they genuinely liked the comfort blue Sapphire (looked like Madagascar). No- of the N100s. Also noted, during this visit, was tice in the photo below right what looks like a that the noise levels generated by the saws and walkie talkie set up on a box. That is our PCE

10 11 Left Top 2 Images: Assorted corundum production. Photo: Pramod Agrawal. Left Middle: Ruby cabochons on dopsticks. Left Bottom: Reviewing production. Photo: Pramod Agrawal.

Right Top to Bottom: Linda and Carmel observing cutters at work; Cutting Emerald melee; Mounting Emeralds onto dop sticks; Jam peg lapidary wheel.

laser particle tester and the tube flowing down still using jam peg technology. on the left of it is another dust collector that is We finished the day visiting a kind of co-op above my pay grade to name. On this day we shop where the cutters come in and work on were joined by Om Malik, another member of piecework for the owner of the facility. It was the WHWB team. very much like a storage facility we might see Later that morning we visited an Emer- in the U.S., although the appearance of the shop ald cutting facility. Apparently, the majority of was quite messy with lots of slurry and material Gemfields material is being cut here in Jaipur scattered around. and our experience was that there was a great While the overall feel was that the slurry deal if not the majority. should be full of dust and material of all sorts, According to the shop owner, the green on Om Malik noted that most of the particulate the laps is from the Israeli laps they are using material was not harmful. We also attracted a and from the chromic oxide being used as a fan club (see below). It reminds us why we are polishing compound. I was impressed to see doing this. that they are achieving very precise cutting and Thursday’s visit was to a home-based

Top Clockwise: Five of my newest BFF’s; Cutting shop; Home-based cutting;Om Malik, WHWB, (purple shirt) setting up measuring equipment. Bottom: Fluorite cabs and Amethyst;

All photos courtesy of Douglas Hucker, except where noted above.

cutting shop in a predominantly Muslim neigh- borhood. These cutters were cutting Amethyst, Onyx, Fluorite and Phrenite. Again, wet cutting was employed, and conditions seemed not unlike those seen in some of the smaller shops we visited earlier. Air quality samples will be sent to Canada for analysis and our locally engaged employee will continue to search out shops and factories for testing. We will be coordinating with WHWB and the University of Queensland to review results to this point and to strategize educational efforts moving forward. AGTA will keep the jewelry community informed as to the progress on this ongoing project.

14 15 “ feel like we can express ourselves in so many Necklace: Zoltan “My picture was always in her deck. She was ways,” says Garcelle Beauvais. “It’s almost like David, Somewhere trying to find me,” said the actress of Chatman’s putting on a character.” The model, actress, In The Rainbow - desire to have her participate in the movie. “She and author is talking about fashion, jewelry, Knight steel, 18K finally met a friend of mine who introduced us. and her love of both. and 24K yellow We decided to jump on board and also produce it. Her adoration doesn’t just stem from the glam- gold, platinum Jamie Foxx helped us. We’ve made the short and our of wearing beautiful pieces, but also from the “Falling Waters” are hoping to get a feature. You always have to put undeniablyI transformative power fashion can necklace featuring things out in the universe.” possess. 1mm - 3.20mm Foxx and Beauvais are longtime friends and Beauvais should know. She made the leap from keshi cultured co-workers, having starred together for five years on successful model in the early nineties to landing Pearls accented The Jamie Foxx Show, and again on the big screen in her first big break in the entertainment world on with Diamonds. the film White House Down. legendary producer Aaron Spelling’s small screen hit Earrings: Like Foxx, Beauvais has proven that her talent series, Models, Inc., which aired in the mid-nineties. Mark Patterson, doesn’t stop at the screen (though her star clearly And while the Haitian-born beauty moves Mark Patterson - shines brightly there). In addition to her thriving gracefully through her many ventures, behind the 18K yellow gold production company, she has a reoccurring role on scenes, securing her spot on Models, Inc., came from “Mist” earrings The Magicians, which she describes as “Harry Potter, pure grit and tenacity, playing out in many ways featuring two pear- but more grown up,” and on The Arrangement which like its own daytime drama. shaped rutilated is loosely based on Hollywood’s clandestine mar- “I was still modeling and going back and forth Quartz drops and riage contracts. to New York when I heard about a TV show colored Diamonds. “The beauty now of the industry is that it’s not coming out about models,” says Beauvais of trying Bracelet: bad to do other things,” says Beauvais of branch- to get an audition for the series. “But my agent Loren Nicole, ing out beyond traditional entertainment. “When said that they were not seeing any black models for Loren Nicole - I started in the industry you were pigeonholed to the show. I dreamt that night that I was talking to 22K yellow gold being one thing. That’s changed and allowed me to Aaron Spelling. Being superstitious, I decided the bangle featuring do so many things.” next day that I was going to write him a letter and a hand-carved Case in point: A successful children’s book series take it to him myself.” rock crystal focusing on common issues within modern families Beauvais found Spelling’s office address, marched Quartz that can often be hard to deal with. The three-book up, unannounced, to the receptionist desk and left (260.0 ctw.). series includes the titles: “I Am Mixed,” “I Am Living her headshots in Two Homes,” and résumé. The and “I Am receptionist du- Awesome.” tifully placed it GARCELLE BEAUVAIS “Writing books on the produc- CLASSIC STYLE WITH A COLORFUL TWIST was something er’s desk and three days later the model turned to I always wanted to do, but was also very scared of actress with a role in the Models, Inc. ensemble cast. Ring #1: Robert doing,” she says. “I was going through a hard time “We’ve made great strides since then,” she says Pelliccia, J.R. Dunn and realized that to get out of the mindset I was in, about an increase of diverse roles in Hollywood. Jewelers - 18K yel- I had to do something that scared me. That’s when “We have shows like Empire, How to Get Away low and white gold the book happened and it’s been so great for my With Murder and Scandal. We still have a ways to go, “Desert Moon” ring kids to see that I had an idea and I made it come but we’ve definitely come a long way.” featuring a 13.03 ct. to life.” With over two decades of TV and film under Moonstone Though she’s far from her initial modeling days her belt, Beauvais has recently taken her talent cabochon (and having to personally hand in her headshot for behind the camera in order to be an active part accented with a role), Beauvais still makes time for fashion, espe- of telling women’s stories. With the launch of blue Sapphires and cially jewelry. her production company, Beauvais/Wilson (with Diamonds. “I love it!” coos Beauvais, about slipping into producing partner Lisa Wilson), she is giving life to Ring #2: Oscar model mode for her AGTA Spectrum Awards ™ projects she finds important. Heyman, Oscar photo shoot and getting to wear amazing clothing “There are so many stories out there that talk Heyman - Platinum and award-winning jewelry. “This shoot was so about things we want to talk about,” says Beauvais. ring featuring a much fun. I’m such a girly girl and I love every “It’s important to have a woman’s voice. Holly- 32.30 ct. Cat’s-Eye time I get to dress up and get fancy.” wood is just now starting to go, ‘Oh, a woman’s Chrysoberyl For the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ shoot, the film can do well.’” accented with actress donned an array of gemstones ranging from The first project Beauvais and Wilson are pro- Diamonds. black and white “tuxedo” inspired sets to dazzling ducing is a short film called Lalo’s House which Clothing: Ralph purple Amethysts and gorgeous Garnets. The vivid deals with sex trafficking in Haiti and is inspired by Lauren – ivory color of each piece fell perfectly in line with her a true story. Beauvais also stars in the film. tuxedo available at personal sense of style. “When it comes to my per- “It’s loosely based on two little girls living in Haiti, Saks Fifth Avenue. sonal style, I’m classic,” says Beauvais, “but it doesn’t who are kidnapped on their way home from mean I wouldn’t wear a trend. And I love color! school and wake up in an orphanage,” explains Being from the islands, color is big for me.” Beauvais. “I play the nun running the orphanage as The added radiance Beauvais brings to the gem- a sex trafficking ring.” stones is indicative of everything she is involved in The film was director Kelley Chatman’s USC – infusing her own inner and outer beauty in order film school thesis and she had Beauvais in mind to to play an interesting character and tell a compel- play a role long before ever meeting the actress. ling story. By Melissa Magsaysay

16 17 A RUSSIAN RELIC

ong gone are the days of the ALEXANDRITEAlexandrite from Russia. Despite getting its name from one of Russia’s historic leaders, it is time to appreciate this stone’s natural beauty over its nostalgic roots. Although the journey may have begun in Russia, it may have ended there too. Today, most, if Lnot all, Alexandrites you might see in jewelry do not come from Russia. This point must be reiterated: Russian Alexandrites are from a time that has passed. Still curious to see one? Take a trip to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. In addition to its Russian association, if you have ever googled Alexandrite, almost inevitably you will find a website describing it as “Emerald by day, Ruby by night.” However, contrary to this cliché, the reality is that such dramatic color shift is the rarest type you can find according to one lead gemologist at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Above: AGTA Although we often see references to Alexan- ™ drite changing from a green to red, in reality Spectrum Award this type of color change in Alexandrite is so winning 7.31 ct. rare as to be non-existent. The original emerald-cut Brazilian reference to qualify an Alexandrite, as a Alexandrite by Chrysoberyl that changes from green to red, Joseph Ambalu,Amba is far too restrictive. Gem Corp.

18 HOPKINS OPAL EXCEPTIONAL AUSTRALIAN OOPALPAL

LIGHTNING RIDGE BLACK OPAL CRYSTAL OPAL • BOULDER OPALL

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AGTA tel: 401-322-1253 hopkinsopal gmail.com member www.hopkinsopal.com hopkinsopal “A more apt description would seeing “purple, reddish-purple or pink with various possible modifi- indicate something like ‘greenish’ in purplish-red” Alexandrites, but hardly ers such as brown, yellow, orange). fluorescent light and ‘reddish’ under ever seeing purely red ones. LMHC suggest comparison of incandescent light,” says Christopher Like Diamonds, there are addi- incandescent light “equivalent of Smith of American Gemological Lab- tional C’s that can be used in guid- 3600K.” oratories (AGL). “Even though the ing yourself to Alexandrite. Besides Lab Classification of full range of colors possible is more Clarity, Carat, and Cut, you also have Alexandrite expansive than that.” color Change (instead of just color) Ultimately, this determination of Christian Dunaigre, who cur- and Classification (Lab Classification). what is an Alexandrite is rently manages his best suited for a lab. Ac- own gem laboratory cordingly, some of industry’s in Thailand as well leading labs have defined as one of the only Alexandrite as follows: on-site mobile gem testing services, also American Gemological believes finding an Laboratories (AGL): Alexandrite with a Chrysoberyl where the “pure ruby red” color dominant

is nearly impossi- hue distinctly

ble. Moreover, Mr. Verify this report at gia.edu changes under Dunaigre thinks most GIA GEMOLOGICAL REPORT different light- Alexandrites have ing conditions. modifiers and seldom **Color-Shift have pure changes as opposed to !" that are limited Color-Change: to one hue. Chrysoberyl Although anecdotal, you can (not classified as might not be accepted in lieu of the original GIA Report in certain circumstances. The original original The circumstances. certain in Report GIA original the of lieu in accepted be not might FACSIMILE FACSIMILE probably go to any gem trade show facsimile. this on reproducible not are which features security certain includes Report GIA alexandrite) that and ask to see an Alexandrite lab # $# displays a more % &$!' ()!( *+,, report (commonly referred to as a representation This Report. GIA original the of representation digital a is This subtle modifica- “certificate”) of any type and discover tion to its color this yourself. under different Gem identifi- lighting condi- cation reports tions. almost never Christian Dunaigre limit them- (C.D.): A chro- selves to just mium bearing one color when colour-change describing Chrysoberyl the color shift The results documented in this report refer only to the article described, and were obtained using the (colour- change: techniques and equipment used by GIA at the time of under white examination. This report is not a guarantee or valuation. For additional information and important limitations and disclaimers, please see www.gia.edu/terms or call +1 800 421 7250 or +1 760 603 4500. main hue in day- ©2015 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (daylight) light AMERICA OF INSTITUTE GEMOLOGICAL AMERICA OF INSTITUTE GEMOLOGICAL THE SECURITY FEATURES IN THIS DOCUMENT, INCLUDING THE HOLOGRAM, QR CODE AND MICROPRINT LINES, IN ADDITION TO THOSE light differs from NOT LISTED, EXCEED DOCUMENT SECURITY INDUSTRY GUIDELINES. GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA and incandes- GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA that seen in incan- cent light (lamp descent light). yellow light). Common Gemological Institute of examples America (GIA): Any include: Bluish color change (not shift) Green to Pur- makes Chrysoberyl into ple, Green to Alexandrite. Greyish-Purple, GemResearch Swiss Lab Green to Pur- (GRS): Alexandrite: a plish Red, Green to Purplish Pink, chromium bearing colour-change Yellowish-Green to Brownish Purple, Ideal Lighting Condition Chrysoberyl2. and many other 2 to 1 and 1 to 2 The best way to look at an Alexan- Gübelin Gem Lab (GUB): It is a variety type color changes. drite is under two different lighting of gem Chrysoberyl, which changes My doubts about finding a purely conditions: its main hue from daylight to incan- red Alexandrite were even further 1. White/daylight to see the first descent light. The color-change is solidified by Gübelin’s own Dr. Anna color (ideally green with a blue/ mainly caused by Chromium. Malsy. Dr. Malsy has written exten- brown/yellow modifier). The Lab The common thread among these sively about colored gemstones, and Manual Harmonisation Commit- definitions is the display of a color has published a thorough article dis- tee (LMHC) suggests the daylight changing over a color shifting. cussing how to identify the difference “equivalent of 5500K.” In essence, Alexandrite is the between synthetic Alexandrites and 2. Yellow/warm light to see the color-change variety of Chrysoberyl. genuine Alexandrites1. She described second color change (red, purple, Color change is the defining charac-

teristic that distinguishes Alexandrite world. This is probably due to its ex- from other Chrysoberyl varieties3. orbitant price. Good-quality, carat-size It appears to be easy for labs to Alexandrites from Brazil can exceed classify Alexandrite when the color Diamond carat-size equivalents. change is readily apparent. It becomes The current major Alexandrite more of a dilemma when the color sources include: Sri Lanka, Mada- shift falls short of change. This begs gascar, Tanzania, Brazil, Zimbabwe, the question as to whether the stone Mozambique and India. is in fact Alexandrite or just Chryso- However, it appears that quality beryl—the latter being less valuable. Alexandrite is becoming more and Ask any collector, and the Alexandrite more difficult to find everywhere. Ad- title automatically carries more allure ditionally, like the Russian Alexandrite, than simply Chrysoberyl. the Brazilian Alexandrite has already Perhaps labs should start adding a steadily declined in quality production. quantitative description to the Alex- While origin can seem important andrite. American Gemological Lab- in buying an Alexandrite, labs will oratories is already there. While AGL likely charge extra for this determi- GemBriefs™ lab reports describe the nation. It may be worth the addi- Alexandrite and diamond pendant. Alexandrite’s degree of color change tional fee for someone claiming an as: weak, moderate, strong, prominent, Alexandrite is from Brazil, or Russia. a more comprehensive AGL Prestige However, a reputable lab report is es- Gemstone Report™ includes color sential for truly identifying the stone change percentage as well (see sample as natural without any treatments. report depicted below). A lab report that includes a Future Thoughts degree of color change arguably At the end of the day, Alexandrite conveys more information than just is one of those gemstones that truly having hue descriptions. Does that wows its new audiences. People will give the ultimate owner a more often be amazed at the idea that a comprehensive picture of what their gemstone can change colors. Al- Alexandrite looks like? It’s hard to though there are other gemstones out say. Color-change intensity is not an there that change colors, Alexandrite exact science. Alexandrite and Diamond ring. is truly unique in that color change is At the end of the day, what matter inextricably linked to its identity and most is confidence that the Alexandrite quality of rarity. gemstone enthusiasts are getting is one The industry should rid itself of that qualifies as Alexandrite and not the notion that Alexandrites changing Chrysoberyl. And this becomes likely from red to green are available in the with both higher color-change per- market. My opinion after speaking centages and/or drastic hue changes. with many laboratory heads only confirmed this. The identity of an Origins Alexandrite is much different than Identifying the origin of Alexan- its origin’s relationship. By Justin drites is very difficult. While certain Zaroovabeli, the Member of Record and a color associations may be evidence founding partner of AGTA Firm Member, of certain origins, no particular color Alexandrite and Diamond ring. The Rare Gem LLC. An exclusive im- alone will be determinative of origin. Above images courtesy of porter of Alexandrites. Labs often need a combination of The Rare Gem, LLC. evidence, chemical composition tests, 1 and other types of expensive equip- And Paraiba Tourmalines have Brazil. “Synthetic Alexandrite- Growth Methods and ment, to come to a conclusion about One could argue that for Alexandrites their analytical fingerprints”, EUR. J. MINERAL., origin. Although not full proof, a this would be Russia, but the truth Anna-Kathrin Malsy and Thomas Armbruster, combination of these things and pre- is that the current most exceptional November 2012. 2 viously reported data will lead them looking Alexandrites are from Brazil. Both C.D. and GRS follow the Laboratory Manu- to draw a conclusion. Sometimes, labs From a strictly color-change point al Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) guidelines, will work closely with mine owners of view, you be the judge of whether which may be found at http://www.lmhc-gem- for rough samples for their own data the Russian Alexandrite or Brazilian ology.org/pdfs/IS9_23092010.pdf 3 banks. It’s no surprise that samples Alexandrite is more impressive. Source: “Colored Stones” Chapter 21, Tanzanite, directly from the mine will make Unlike its “green to red” folktale Iolite, Chrysoberyl, and Andalusite, GIA Gem- identification easier. Russian counterpart, the Brazilian ological Institute of America. 4 Alexandrite displays an awesome Please note that only AGL Prestige ID Reports Current Sourcing bluish-green color under white light, and Origin Reports include a color change Those in the trade know that a gem- and magically changes to a deep rich percentage. Regular GemBrief reports only classify stone’s desire is sometimes inextrica- purple under incandescent light. the strength of color change as Prominent, Strong, bly tied to its origin. Blue Sapphires The Brazilian Alexandrite has yet Moderate, and Weak. See http://aglgemlab. have Kashmir. Rubies have Burma. to be fully appreciated by the gem com/pricelist/

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father’s vineyard. So I was quite GUY: Where did you go work? impressed, and then I thought to myself it must be the same AVI: My first job was with an weather like in Israel and indeed orthodontics and dental supply that is the case. company that produced dental equipment and parts. They hired GUY: So the plan was to get a me as a project engineer; I was degree in engineering. And then the only engineer in the depart- what? Go back to Israel? Was that ment, and ended up working on the idea? a variety of projects. With my next job, I was hired as a pro- AVI: The plan was to graduate, duction and design engineer for to get a degree in engineering a company that produced blind and return to Israel. That was fasteners and rivets for the aero- my target and in three years I space industry. Two years later, I vi Raz is retiring after 37 got my degree—in 1973. Upon was hired by Flying Tigers Air- years in the business he graduation, I went to the Israeli line, which was the largest cargo A founded, A&Z Pearls. Consulate in Los Angeles with airline at that time. It was based In that time, Avi has distinguished my degree and had an interview in Los Angeles, but operated in himself as a leader in the field and with the economic attaché. the U.S. and Asia. I would fly to one of the most highly respected He let me understand that my different cargo terminals around colleagues in our industry. Avi’s timing to return to Israel wasn’t the world to make sure that their son, Guy Raz, host of several so great. At the same time Israel planes were quickly unloaded NPR programs including How I was absorbing a big migration and reloaded in order for them Built This, Ted Radio Hour, and the from Russia. Many of the new to depart on time to their next kid’s programºWOW in the World”, immigrants had technical skills. destination. It was an amazing recently sat down with his father Israel at that time had plenty of Below: opportunity working for a great to talk about his career and how engineers. He encouraged me to Avi Raz, Ruben company. It was a very family he got into the business. continue my education by pur- Binda, and atmosphere type of company, suing an advanced degree, and Doug Hucker great management, very suc- AVI: I was born in Israel and after hopefully, by the time I earned at the 24K cessful airline. One of the large serving in the military in Israel, the degree, it would be the right Gala, Southern projects I was involved with was I retired with the rank of major time for me to return to Israel. California. the design and construction of a and decided that I wanted to go back to school and study. I was admitted to Cal Poly in Southern California to pursue my studies in engineering.

GUY: When did you come to the United States? Below: Victor’s albino AVI: I came to the U.S. at the end python, Jasmine. of 1969. That was my first trip to the U.S. I flew to New York and continued to California.

GUY: What did you think about California? What was your first recol- lection of your arrival there?

AVI: It’s a little funny. My father was in the wine grape growing business. So when I flew to LAX, and from there to Ontario in a little propeller airplane, the one thing that impressed me the most was the amount of grape bushes that I saw from the air. It felt like I was back in Israel overlooking my

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27 Tigers. I started reading some books and articles and anything I could get my hands on about Pearls. I went to my friend’s office and got first-hand education on the different types of Pearls, and important training sessions from the people who worked for his Pearl company. While investing the time to learn about Pearls, I concluded that Pearls are a rel- atively simple science. Studying the different types of Pearls and Left: Avi with how to evaluate their quality and his four kids are value, I concluded that I should celebrating his give a potential Pearl business a try. seventy birthday I actually consulted with the in Avi’s favorite president of the airline and told vacation spot him that I appreciated so much – The Office the opportunity I had gotten in Cabo San with the airline; however I had Lucas, Mexico. decided to start a new business Pictured in front on my own. He thought that I row Avi and his went a little crazy, and maybe I son Guy and was too tired. He suggested that behind them are I should just take a few weeks Ari, Karen and of vacation before I made this Yael. move. It was very strange to him, Below: Yellow as well as to my friends, even gold earrings to my own family—all thought

featuring Akoya that something went wrong in Pearls. my head. I had good earnings with the airline; I was flying all over the world basically free of new cargo facility for the airline at GUY: How did you learn about charge because of my position the Tokyo Airport in Narita, Japan. Pearls? with Flying Tigers. I had a beautiful apartment in a GUY: Flying Tigers asked you to AVI: Living in To- central and very desir- move to Japan to take a new position kyo you meet a lot of able location in Tokyo. with the airline. different people from I had everything that all over the world: one can dream about AVI: I was appointed to the new bankers, insurance and and to leave all that for position of Director of Operations business executives, something that I didn’t in charge of the Far East. and representatives of know much about was major companies. I met quite risky. However GUY: What about life in Japan. What a guy in Tokyo who I always thought that do you remember about it? was a major player in there are no opportu- Japan’s Pearl business. nities out there with- AVI: Well, I love Japan. Japan is He was a major source out the willingness for probably one of the most attrac- selling Pearls to dealers taking a risk. I decided tive places in the world to live. all over the world. We that I was at the age Their culture is very fascinating. started talking, and where I could take the They have many different holidays whenever we met he risk, and hopefully the celebrating life and nature. In challenged me with the advantage of an oppor- addition, I fell in love with the same question: “Why tunity that would work rich traditions of Japanese food. I don’t you look into the well for me. If for some found the Japanese people to be opportunity in Pearls?” reason it didn’t work extremely hospitable, very friendly, I knew very little about well for me, I could and very easy to get along with. I Pearls and didn’t know always go back to the respected them very much and I much about the jewel- airline business. must say the respect was mutual. ry business in the U.S. I They saw the value of what I decided to invest some GUY: How did you come brought with me, in my cultural time to learn more to the idea of opening traditions. And I saw the same about Pearls while your business in Los thing in the Japanese people. working for Flying Angeles?

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MPROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCEJ INS JEWELRY MAKINGA & DESIGN AVI: I went to Tokyo with my With all my company-added AVI: Even in a small field like family from the Los Angeles area. activities, my business started Pearls, you have to decide, as an I was familiar with the Los Ange- growing. I had to hire a secretary importer, what area of Pearls les area. I wasn’t exposed to any and staff members to help my you want to specialize in. I liked jewelry businesses in Los Angeles. company sell and service the to focus more on the quality of So I decided that would be a variety of Pearl products we the product because I wanted good place to start; at least I knew carried. The first five years of to make sure that when I sold the geography of Los Angeles. So, A&Z Pearls played a major role my Pearls to my customers, they I got a small briefcase, and invest- in the future success of bought great value and they ed a little money for my initial my company. could sell them to their retail Pearls inventory. I customers at a great placed my new Pearls value. For me, value purchase in my small was the most import- briefcase and came to ant aspect. I was very L.A. with the hope proud of the product that I’d be able to I was handling. sell them fast, get my One of my money back quickly, guidelines in buying and then go back to Pearls was to test my- Japan, buy, and sell self by asking myself: more. I basically start- “Am I willing to ed my Pearl business give this necklace to from my briefcase. one of my daughters My wife helped me to wear?” And if the at the beginning of answer was yes, I’d my business. I started buy it. Throughout selling door to door my career, it was my in downtown Los guideline and I never Angeles. Many of went wrong with those folks were very that. nice and kind. How- ever, a few of them GUY: So 37 years in were not as nice; they this business. Why did threw me out of their you decide to retire? stores like a rock. It was quite a shock AVI: There are some for me, coming from interests for me to Japan where I dealt pursue. I recognize with government that we don’t live agencies, top echelon forever. I like to travel business leaders and and I’d like to do other airlines. The some volunteer work exposure that I had in to pay back a little to Los Angeles was quite the community where different and quite I live. I believe my challenging. After hard work for GUY: You knew pretty quickly after Above: business was a huge success, and many months, I concluded I had you made this decision that it was Freshwater I’m very proud of that. I earned created a very successful business the right decision to leave the airline. Pearls my living from the Pearl business venture for me and my family. and was able to provide for my AVI: Oh yeah—no question family. I always felt that I should GUY: Did it take off pretty quickly? about it. It was quite rewarding give back to the industry that was for me. It was growing from year very instrumental in allowing AVI: I started very small selling to year throughout my career. me to excel in this field. Over from my briefcase. I remember I participated in more jewelry the years, I was quite involved that one of the first jewelry shows shows, exposing my company in many different organizations I participated in was the AGTA to many jewelry stores around and opportunities that helped the GemFair™ in Tucson at the Dou- the country. I got involved with jewelry business overall. bletree Hotel. I had joined AGTA some multi-user operators and I have served on different in 1983, and it was the second was able to establish my name boards of directors. I am always year of AGTA GemFair™. My and start building my company’s trying to give back because I first show with AGTA in Tucson reputation in the business. I was believe that there are challenges proved to be a successful venture very familiar with Pearls. in our industry, challenges in life; for A&Z Pearls. Later I expanded that unless we get involved and my horizons to locations outside GUY: Was there a point where you get active in some of the aspects of Los Angeles, traveling to all faced some pretty big challenges with of our challenges, things won’t parts of California, and the West. the industry in general? change. We need to be proactive,

contribute, and give back to the which never existed before the of directors and other activities. community that we live in, which arrival of AGTA on the scene. Personally, I see my involvement is in my case the jewelry commu- These facts gave AGTA a center on the AGTA board as a small nity. I use the same concept in my stage role and a great reputation payback to the association I love, own community where I live. in the industry. I believe these and an opportunity to express my facts gave all its members their appreciation to the industry that GUY: What is your outlook for the great boost in business by provided for me and my family future of the jewelry industry in the being part of this important over the years, and all the won- United States? association. derful friends I gained because of my membership with AGTA. AVI: The industry is going through quite GUY: Your thoughts a hard time right on the importance of now because of many AGTA in the jewelry challenges that we industry? face. I think that the biggest challenge that AVI: The most im- the industry faces is portant role AGTA the introduction of is playing in the the Internet where jewelry industry, is as millennials and the a promotional and new generation like organizing vehicle for to buy from the colored gemstones comfort of their own and cultured Pearls homes and from their in all their aspects in mobile phones. We the U.S. and Canada. all witnessed what AGTA has developed a happened with Am- very effective platform azon and some other and a unique stage for major suppliers like its members to con- them. I see a need duct business (Gem- to educate the public Fairs) conducive to about why it’s import- the gems, Pearls, and ant for consumers to jewelry that AGTA purchase their jewelry members sell. We need from their local source. to remember that The service aspect and there are many chal- trust in the jewelry lenges facing AGTA, business are extremely among them to ensure important to most our ability to maintain consumers. our association’s main mission which, in my GUY: Please share with opinion, is to provide me the important role an effective umbrella AGTA has played in for the protection of the growth of your business. GUY: What has participating with Above: the interests of the colored gem- AGTA meant to you, personally as Strand of stone and cultured Pearl industry AVI: I have been a member of well as professionally? Cultured Pearls in the U.S. and Canada. AGTA since 1983 and have exhibited at the AGTA Gem Fair™ AVI: Participating and volun- GUY: Tell us something about you in Tucson since then. It was my teering, to help continue the that no one knows but you would second year in business when I advances of AGTA into the 21st like to share! joined AGTA. I always felt that century, in my view should be being a part of AGTA gave my the objective of every member AVI: As I have aged, I have company a headstart as far as my of the association. AGTA exists increasingly become fascinated ability to introduce A&Z Pearls and has developed over the years by history, more specifically the and its products and services, es- thanks to our founding fathers history of our great country. pecially to new customers. Over and active individuals who were Right now, my focus is on the the years, AGTA has advanced in always ready to “roll up their Civil War Era. I’m reading many the jewelry industry, where focus sleeves” and do work for AGTA. books on the subject and plan was needed for an authority Doug Hucker and our amazing to tour the important battlefield organization in the colored gem- staff in Dallas always play a major sites. So far, I have visited Harpers stones and cultured Pearls trade. role in the success of AGTA, Ferry in West Virginia, Antietam AGTA as an organization took as do members who carry the in Maryland, and Gettysburg in the lead in the establishment of torch and contribute, especially Pennsylvania. I am sure that there standards of disclosure procedures with their service on the board are more sites to come.

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e’re far enough every bride-to-be who dreams of a 2018 into 2018 that colored gemstone engagement ring trendspotting is will be able to know that an actual, as much observa- real-life princess faced the same tion as prediction, choice and she chose color. and I have to say that I like what The royal Padparadscha made its I’m seeing! Several emerging trends appearance days before I headed to have all ripened simultaneously to Tucson for the 2018 AGTA Gem- contributeW to one undeniable result: Fair™ and I couldn’t wait to see the the public wants color. repercussions firsthand. Dealer after We can thank Princess Eugenie for dealer told me about the delicious lighting the bonfire of 2018’s colored Padparadscha Sapphires they were gemstone curiosity with her Padpar- moving or seeking, but the gem- adscha Sapphire engagement ring re- stones were such a hot commodity veal. She’s not the first royal to desire a that I only touched two all week. non-diamond engagement ring, but a peachy pink Padparadscha feels much Above:A purple Sapphire and Paraiba more nontraditional than a regal Ruby Tourmaline ring by Erica Courtney! This would or cerulean Sapphire. From now on, be such a wonderful engagement ring.

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Padparadschas aren’t the only consumer’s desire for noteworthy safe. Happy colors make people feel sweetly hued gems currently in de- uniqueness. Tradition with a twist is better, as do charms with talismanic mand. While roaming GemFair with this generation’s favorite thing. significance and sentimental pieces AGTA’s camera crew, I asked attendees Even those who don’t believe that like lockets. about their shopping lists for the show. certain minerals have specific effects As a color lover, I’m thrilled by “Pinks and purples,” I heard over and can understand that a bright, pretty the jewelry-loving world’s appar- over again, with Spinel specified even gemstone is uplifting. When current ent eagerness to appreciate colored more frequently than Sapphire. Pink events are disheartening, people gemstones in jewelry and I can’t and purple are everywhere in jew- crave aesthetics that remind them wait to see how all of this affects elry right now, both paired and solo. of when they were younger and felt the market as a whole by the time Clearly, Pantone knew what they were we’re all together again in Vegas. doing when they chose Ultraviolet as By Becky Stone of Diamonds in the 2018’s Color of the Year. Library The candy-colored goodness doesn’t About the Author: end there. Combinations of bright Becky Stone is a gems from all over the color spectrum freelance writer, – both traditional ROYGBIV rainbow social media expert, order and more abstract arrangements and the founder of – are very popular. Tourmaline, par- the popular blog, ticularly bicolored Tourmaline, is the Diamonds in the all-in-one incarnation of this trend. Library. A career It’s also worth mentioning that crystal writer and editor healing is having an internet-pow- who revamped her ered resurgence. There’s an increased life to become a professional jewelry lover, interest in the meaning of gemstones, Becky is on a never-ending quest to dis- especially among the nouveau boho cover the world’s most noteworthy jewelry set (this is mostly millennial women, designs – old and new, fine and otherwise but not exclusively). Colored gem- – and share them with the people who will stones fit perfectly into the millennial love to love them. 38 Crop Marks are trim size- 8x12” emerald nothing else even comes close

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i s g o o d

Tucson 800-634-4224 AGTA Show-Booth 1301 Las Vegas www.abcgems.com JCK Show-Booth 619 [email protected] affiliate member profile jeff hapeman, earth’s treasury

in technology growing, and I Queen Mine in Pala in 1972. built and hosted my first web- When I got home, I searched sites while the Internet was still the Internet and read every- a private academic network. thing I could find on Southern My expertise in the tech- California gem mining. I found nology we used led to my that several of the locations had doing side work for local fee digs to let people go through businesses and, before I knew mine tailings, and a week later it, I ended up getting pulled I took my wife and daughter to out of academia. I started an the Oceanview Mine in Pala. IT consulting business before This was not long after they had completing my dissertation and found a number of pockets of ended up taking an MSc degree beautiful purple Kunzite, and as my “consolation prize.” That we found several pieces that day. business rapidly grew and was Over the following year I went ill you share about even recognized with a regional back often and built a small yourself, where you grew small business award. After six collection of Southern Califor- W up, and your family today. years, I sold the business to a nia gems, having some of them I grew up in Pennsylvania, large national accounting firm, faceted in Los Angeles. not far from where I live today. with the intention of perhaps In early 2012, I had de- However, right after completing returning to grad school in a cided I was getting tired of college I got married and moved few years. Instead, they promot- the corporate “rat race” and to Wisconsin for graduate school. ed me to CTO to lead their took some time off to explore After 14 years there, my wife, national technology business, other options. While I did some daughter, and I moved to Los An- and I entered the “corporate consulting work that gave me geles for seven years, only return- phase” of my career. After four flexibility in my schedule, I was ing back to our “home area” in years in that role, I was recruited able to join the crew working late 2013. My wife and I met in by a globally known financial the Oceanview Mine. After high school, will have been mar- technology firm located in Santa getting the required training ried for 25 years this summer, and Monica, CA. I spent five years and MSHA certification, I spent have a daughter that turns 16 this working for that firm, traveling Below: AGTA several days a week for the next year. Home for me is anywhere extensively all over the world, Spectrum nine months working with the I can be with my wife, daughter, and even living for a time in Award™-winning crew, drilling and blasting in and our three Toy Fox Terriers. London. 42.47-carat apatite, the hunt for gemstones. I was All along I maintained my cut in my “Aurora” hooked, and decided that I Tell us the fascinating story of how interest in gems and minerals, square cushion wanted to find a way to make you got your start in the jewelry and continued to collect them; design. this my next career. One of the industry. for example, I miners was an My story is probably a lot took my daugh- avid faceter, and different than most, and hopefully ter out locally he kept telling fascinating to some. As a boy I to collect fossi me that I should had a strong interest in geology zeolites in the try it out. Finally, and mineralogy and dreamed of Santa Monica in early 2013 I growing up to be a mineralogist. Mountains. One faceted my first Like many, I had a rock collection day I was in San gem, and all of and I was a member of a regional Diego County, the pieces fell club that led field collecting trips. out west of the into place. Having Somewhere around the time Pala region, initially launched I went to college, my interest hunting a rare Earth’s Treasury shifted to biology, and after ma- wildflower to in 2012 with a joring in biology as an under- photograph. mixed focus on grad, I went to the University of While hiking gems and gem Wisconsin-Madison to pursue a I stumbled on mineral spec- PhD in Botany and Evolution- a pegmatite imens, I made ary Biology. I was doing what, and found a the decision to at the time, was cutting-edge number of small narrow my focus gene-sequencing work and it was beautiful schorl crystals. That to colored gemstones, with a computer-intensive as we were triggered a childhood memory bias towards American gems. mathematically analyzing massive of reading of the amazing finds Because of my background in data sets. That led to my interest of Tourmaline at the Tourmaline technology, particularly Internet

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AGTA Office: 800-972-1162 – [email protected] www.agta.org Who were your early mentors in the colored gemstone / jewelry trade? My greatest mentor and friend in the gemstone trade was the late master gem cutter Stephen Kotlowski. He faceted some amazing deep purple Cal- ifornia Kunzites for me, and like the miner I worked with, also encouraged me to try my hand at faceting. When I finally took it up, he was always there to talk to on the phone, to give me tips and pointers, and was always willing to share his extensive knowledge. Stephen encouraged me to enter the Spectrum Awards competition and after he passed away in late 2015, I Left: Hapeman decided to honor him by doing working a jackleg so. I like to think he somehow drill, mining a knew that, as my entry won that pegmatite in year in the “All Other Faceted” Southern California. category. I owe Stephen a great debt of gratitude for his mento- technology, the business was built person. I love Paula Crevoshay’s ring and encouragement. from the ground up—a web- combination of nature and jew- based business—rather than a elry and how she uses color to Will you share with us what classic retail or wholesale business. achieve that goal. As a naturalist your win in the AGTA Spectrum Like I said at the beginning…not at heart, the beauty of nature Awards™ has meant to you? your typical path into the trade! speaks to me. As I just mentioned, winning had a deep personal Tell us about the journey from your Tell us more about the person who meaning for me as an honor to beginning in the jewelry business to introduced you to the jewelry indus- my late mentor. It has also been today; where you trained as a jeweler, try and about your love for colored gratifying to affirm the effort etc. gemstones. and passion I have poured into I have never had any formal There are several people the gem business. I feel fortu- training. When it came to facet- who filled that role. The first nate to have realized this rec- ing, a friend of mine gave me my was a miner I met at the Ocean- ognition so early in my career, first lesson in the basics of how view Mine in Pala, California— and it inspires me to continue to cut a gem and operate my ma- Phil Osborn. Phil is a legendary pushing myself artistically. chine. From that point out I was mining figure in Southern self-taught—I’ve always tended California, having spent time Could you share your thoughts on to latch onto things I am inter- underground in some of the your design aesthetic? ested in and immerse myself in most famous mines in the re- When I create a new facet- them. I have a voracious appetite gion, as well as discovering some ing design for my gems, I ap- for knowledge and enjoy reading significant deposits on his own proach it as a challenge to create anything I can lay my hands on— while prospecting. He’s also a something that is beautiful and at least when it comes to non-fic- very talented gemstone cutter, scintillating in the hand, yet tion. So much about gems is even and it was his prodding that first deceptively simple in execution. stranger than fiction! pushed me down this path. When it comes to facets, I like On the industry side, Shelly to believe “less is more.” My in- Who are custom jewelers you admire Sergent of the Somewhere In spirations are the classic designs and respect? The Rainbow Collection was a and shapes, but I want to update I am very inspired by the key figure. I met her in Tucson them with a modern twist, using more classical designs and design- at the AGTA show in Febru- technology and modern faceting ers; whenever I can see or handle ary 2013, when the collection tools to optimize the face-up old pieces by Tiffany, Faberge or acquired one of my California performance and beauty of my the like I’m just awed by what Kunzites. She became a friend gemstones. This requires consid- they accomplished in their day. and encouraged me as I entered erable modeling of potential de- Among modern jewelers, I have a completely new trade. She signs, and test cutting to verify a particular fondness by those was there to introduce me to them. For too long I believe that who love color as much as I do, well-established industry figures the quality of cutting and design like Erica Courtney and Derek and help me increase my expo- has been under-appreciated in Katzenbach—two people I am sure. I count her as a friend and colored gemstones and my hope fortunate enough to know in colleague. is that at least in some small way,

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43 I can contribute to a change in hardness, and in some directions that they are not exploiting the this area. it can feel harder than Sapphire, miners, and whenever possible I while in others it will cut as work directly with the miners. What initially attracted you to quickly as a much softer stone. It I pay them a fair price for their AGTA? has a tendency to randomly open labors, and have often paid to The idea of an organization up on the cleavage planes at any support small miners during that not only promoted the point during the cutting process, their periods of low produc- colored gemstone trade, but sometimes totally shattering. tion, or purchased lower-quality also was a strong advocate of Sometimes you can cut a Kunzite goods to keep them. I don’t ethical standards around the sale with no issues at all, and other buy goods from areas where the of colored gemstones was very times it will just disappoint you. mining is destroying something appealing to me. As a gemstone Knowing how to minimize the like a national park. One of the buyer before entering the trade, problems is important, but also reasons I like offering North I recall being faced with the puts some constraints in place as American gemstones is that my dilemma of understanding the to what you can do. customers and I can rest assured various gem treatments when that the environmental regula- I searched for an Emerald for a Tell us about the changes to the trade tions regarding mining are much ring for my wife. Knowing that that you have witnessed through the more stringent here. I could part of an organization years. Also, how are you guiding your The whole topic is a chal- committed to transparency firm to meet today’s challenges? lenging one as the gemstone in- about gemstone treatments was I haven’t had the many years dustry has come under greater very attractive to me. in this trade others have to ob- scrutiny than some because of serve long-term trends, movies like “Blood Diamond.” What is your favorite col- but even in my limit- The reality is that the issue is ored gemstone? And why? ed time I can see how much broader than that (for a It’s probably appar- technology has changed prime example look at cobalt ent to most of those things and will continue mining in Africa), but if it also who already know me to do so. With regards to doesn’t mean we as an industry that I have a special the gem trade, the rapid don’t need to respond. I per- place in my heart for spread of mobile tech- sonally think our industry has an Montana Sapphires. nology, to the far reaches opportunity to be a leader in this I feel they have been of the world, has com- space but it seems as if outside under-appreciated for a bined with social media the Diamond trade and the long time, for a variety platforms like Facebook Kimberley Process a consensus of reasons. One reason and Instagram in a way hasn’t been built. There’s a real is that they are trickier that has allowed remote opportunity there for our in- to cut properly than small-scale miners to dustry to take what we’ve done many gems, as they of- market their goods on with gem treatment and apply ten feature strong color a global basis. That has that model of transparency to the zoning and also have presented both challenges sourcing of our gems and metals. strong pleochroism. and opportunities. This means that proper- The retail side of the Tell us about Earth’s Treasury today. ly orienting the rough gem and jewelry trade Who works with you? stone to get the best seems to have really When I ran my technology color can be tricky. Too lagged every other in- business, we built e-commerce often I see stones that dustry in embracing and sites for some large businesses have not been properly leveraging the Internet and some small businesses that cut and the color is dull for e-commerce and were able to do high volumes of or washed out—even marketing. There’s mas- business with low staff overhead. when cut at the proper angles Top:The 12.62- sive opportunity there for those I always told my wife that the with no windowing. Properly carat “Montana who understand how to leverage latter model appealed to me— cut, the Montana Sapphires Queen” sapphire, social media and e-commerce. that my next business would feature a beautiful array of fancy faceted in my be one with no employees. So colors and a nearly continu- “Sparkling Snowflake” Please share your thoughts on respon- far, I’ve achieved that goal—the ous range of hues from blue to design. To the best of sible sourcing and social responsibility business is just myself right now. green. our knowledge this in the colored gemstone industry. I’m fortunate that my wife is is the largest known This is a topic I have given a a CPA, so she can help on the What gemstone has been the most heated blue Mon- lot of thought to over the last few financial side, but otherwise I challenging to you when creating tana sapphire. years. As someone with a back- take care of everything. As the a custom, one-of-a-kind article of Bottom:A 1.47- ground in biology and conserva- business has grown, I’ve lever- adornment? carat unheated tion, I have a strong environmen- aged technology to streamline I actually enjoy cutting chal- sapphire from Rock tal ethic—but I also recognize processes to high efficiency, lenging gem species, but only Creek, Montana we have to balance that with the allowing me to grow without one has been what I would call faceted in my realities of our world. I put great adding staff. That said, those days challenging—Kunzite. Kun- “Helena” oval care into selecting the gem rough are probably soon ending, as I zite has incredible directional design. dealers I work with to make sure anticipate adding some adminis-

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3 45

JVC_AGTA Prism Ad.indd 3 11/2/17 3:35 PM trative support in the next year or Museum. I’ll let people Google two. In the meantime, our three that one and decide for them- What was your best meal ever and dogs are my daily support staff. selves! where? While the food was not the What has your membership with the What is a jackleg and do you miss best I’ve ever had (although AGTA meant for/to you? operating it? it was excellent!), it was more For me the greatest thing Haha! Good discovery. A about how memorable this I have gained from my AGTA jackleg drill is a special type meal was: I took my wife and membership is access to a won- of drill used in underground daughter to dinner at Le Jules derful global group of people hard rock mining. They are Verne on the Eiffel Tower. who share my passion for colored heavy, loud, and messy, using Reservations have to be made gems and jewelry. The relation- compressed air and hydraulics fairly far in advance as it’s a ships I have built have helped me to drive a long (typically 4 feet popular destination. The views grow and I have no doubt will long) steel drill bit into hard of Paris at night while dining last a lifetime. rock to prepare for blasting. That are amazing. It was our wedding anniversary and we ended What is your favorite colored gem- up getting a beautiful birthday stone “Tucson Story”? cake because of the language There are so many Tucson confusion: birthday in French is stories! That said, when I think anniversaire. We still smile about back to Tucson “stories” there that mix-up. is one I always love to tell. Like many, I love the amazing neon What is your favorite hotel in blue-greens of Paraíba Tourma- the world? line. Somewhere around 2013 When I used to travel or 2014, the Somewhere In The frequently to London, I often Rainbow Collection exhibited stayed in a small boutique hotel a large unheated sapphire-blue near the Bank of England called Paraíba Tourmaline. It was the The Threadneedles Hotel. It’s largest and deepest blue, unheated located in an old bank and is Paraíba I had ever seen, and if I inconspicuously tucked off close my eyes I can still see it. Threadneedles Street. Beautiful architecture, great location, and Whom have you admired in the very private. colored gemstone industry? Two gem cutters I have What is your favorite off-the-beat- admired in the industry are John en-path destination? Dyer and Roger Dery. Both have Anywhere with a tumbling managed to combine a love of stream running through the colored gems and colored gem woods. I love to get away from cutting with the ability to build the beaten path and love fly very successful businesses. I have said, after years of working on Above: Hapeman fishing, so I’ll often head to the tremendous respect for the fanta- purely intellectual jobs behind a checking the polish mountains in Pennsylvania (or sy work done by Dalan Hargrave. computer/desk, it was incredi- on a gem. elsewhere if I’m on the road) It’s something I haven’t tried bly fulfilling to pick up a piece and look for a wild stream to my hand at yet, although a few of heavy equipment and just hike, fish, and enjoy the solitude months ago I started acquiring endure pure hard physical labor. of nature. the equipment and I’m looking It definitely kept me in good forward to experimenting with shape while I was operating Tell us something about yourself some fantasy gem cutting. one! that most people don’t know. My wife, daughter, and I are What is the one thing that makes What is your favorite restaurant in NFL team owners! Well, not in you proudest about Westtown, PA? the world? the way most might imagine. Having lived in a variety of I don’t think I could really When we lived in Wisconsin we places in the U.S. and the world, pin it down to one. I’ve been naturally became huge Green I never get too attached to any fortunate to have traveled Bay Packers fans (I think if you one area. If there’s one thing I like extensively and to have enjoyed don’t they run you out of the about this area, it’s the history— a wide variety of restaurants state). We’ve bought stock in much of this area was first settled and cuisines; I’m always open their last two offerings in the by Quakers in the late 1600s, very to finding something new. past twenty years. Not many early for the United States. While I’ve enjoyed many fine people know that the Packers restaurants, my favorites have are the only NFL team owned What is the best museum in your always been restaurants local by the fans. Go PACK! area that people miss or overlook? to where I live, where I can By David M. Baker, GG, AGTA Well, if you’re into the very go regularly and where my Membership & Education Manager unusual, check out the Mütter wife and I are known.

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