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Feb. 7, 1967 W. E. DAVIS ETAL 3,302,265

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Feb. 7, 1967 W. E. DAVIS ETAL 3,302,265 Feb. 7, 1967 w. E. DAVIS ETAL 3,302,265 PROCESS FOR PREPARATION OF FLANNEL FABRICS FROM SYNTHETIC FlBERS Filed April 21, 1964 fr 3,302,265 United States Patent C) ICC Patented Feb. 7, 1967 .1 2 polyester and polyacrylic fibers are preferred. All such 3,302,265 fibers are well known to the art and can be employed PROCESS FOR PREPARATION 0F FLANNEL FABRICS FROM SYNTHETIC FIBERS in the practice of the present invention without regard Warren E. Davis, Arden, and Edward A. McAbee, Wil to their specfic chemistry or to the methods used in pre mington, Del., assignors to E. I. du Pont de Nemours paring them. While it is of the essence of the invention aud Company, Wilmington, Del., a corporation of Dela to provide a true fiannel from man-made fibers, small ware amounts of wool, cotton or the like can also be included, Filed Apr. 21, 1964, Ser. No. 361,546 if desired. 2 Claims. (Cl. 28-76) The single figure of drawing is a flow chart of the basic 10 finishing sequence utilized with the invention. This invention relates to fabrics and in particular to It is important to the success of the procedure that the flannel fabrics made entirely of man-made fibers. fiber blend, whatever the chemical composition of the Flannel fabric is a basic type of textile fabric and fibers, contain fibers of two different residual shrinkage finds wide application in apparel, home furnishings, and levels. The preponderance of the fibers in the blend may industrial uses. True flannels are made entirely or pre have the low residual shrinkage that is characteristic of the process of fulling, which takes advantage of the com man made fibers, which is usually of the order of less bination of the relatively high shrinkage of wool fibers than 1% to about 5%. A minimum of about 30% of the dominantly of wool and are characterized by permanent fibers in the blend, by weight, should have relatively fiber disarangement on the surface of the fabric (surface higher shrinkage, i.e., at least about 10% and preferably cover) and permanent fiber disarrangement between the 20 from about 15 % to about 25%. lFibers with even higher yarns in the base of the fabric (bottom cover), both of residual shrinkage, eg., 30-50%, may, of course, be used which obscure the weave or pattern arrangement of the if available, but such high fiber shrinkage is not essential fabric. Thus fiber disarangement is achieved through to achieve the desired flannel fabrics. Usually, no more the process of fulling, which takes advantage of the com than about 40% of high-shrinkage fibers will be required bination of the relatively high shrinkage of wool fibers 25 to achieve the desired fabric effect; higher proportions of and the presence of epithelial scales on the surface of high-shrinkage fibers may be used but little or no addi the wool fibers, as is well known in the textile art. For tional ‘benefit is achieved thereby. By the term residual fabrics :made from fibers that do not have scales, e.g., cot shrinkage is meant the linear contraction that occurs ton and man-made fibers, a mechanical napping action when the fibers are allowed to relax without tension in is used in an effort to obscure the weave pattern. Fabrics 30 boiling water. made in this way are sometimes called flannels, |but it is Blending of the fibers, spinning of yarns, and weaving recognized in the textile industry that they are not true of fabrics are all carried out by procedures that are flannels. standard practice in the textile industry, with two impor It has long been desired to impart to flannel fabrics tant exceptions. First, the yarns should not be twist-set, some of the properties that are characteristic of man-made 35 since exposure to moisture may cause shrinkage of the fibers, notably their »outstanding durability, ease-of-care high-shrinkage component of` the yarns prematurely. properties, and resistance to attack by microorganisms Second, for the same reason, minimum temperatures and insects. The simplest approach to this objective has should be used in slashing. been to make flannels from blends of man-made fibers A typical finishing sequence that may be used with this with wool, but such fabrics have not been entirely suc 40 invention is as follows: nap, crop shear, hot-dry Schreiner cessful. In order to avoid interefering unduly with the calender, tack, hot full, dolly wash, beck dye, apply felting action of the wool fibers, it has been necessary to antistat, detack, frame, nap, shear, steam, press and restrict the proportion of man-made fibers in the blend semi-decate. As is evident, the foregoing are conven to a relatively low level. This limitation has prevented tional textile finishing operations and can readily be used taking full advantage of the beneficial characteristics of 45 by the artisan in their presently understood manner sub~ the man-made fibers. More complicated procedures have jefctt to the significant modifications mentioned herein also been tried. For example, it has been proposed to a er. f pulsate the feed of spinning solution in the manufacture The ­purpose of the calendering step is to compress of man-made fibers in an effort to produce minute projec and minutely crimp the fibers. While the applicant does tions on the surface of the fibers simulating the scales of 50 not wish to be held to any particular explanation, it may wool fibers. Also, a number of modified fabric finishing be speculated that the minute crimps imparted to the fibers operations, chemical treatments, and the like have been by the calendering operati-on operate in much the same proposed. Despite such atempts, widespread interest con fashion as the epithelial scales of wool to lock the fibers tinues in production methods for fiannel fabrics made in a disarranged position in the course of the fiber migra entirely of man-made fibers and possessing the desired 55 tion induced by the subsequent fulling operation. To and characteristic bottom and surface cover. achieve the desired fiber deformation, several important It has now been discovered that true fiannels, that is, variables in the calendering operation must be controlled. fabrics wherein the weave pattern is totally obscured by First, the temperature should be in lthe range of 100° F. good surface cover and good bottom cover, can be made to 450° F. (38° C. to 232° C.), and preferably 100° F. entirely of man-made fibers by a process in which a fabric 60 to 300° F. (38° CQ to 149° 0.). Pressure on the fabric of such fibers is subjected to hot dry Schreiner calender should be maintained in the range of 833 lbs. per linear ing prior to wet-finishing operations, followed by hot inch to 1666 lbs. per linear inch (149-298 kg./cm.) and fulling. By employing this process with a fabric com preferably between 1250 land about 1666 lbs. per linear posed of a fiber blend containing a proportion of rela inch (223-298 kg./cm.). Rate of calender-ing depends tively high-shrinkage ñbers as well as low-shrinkage fibers, 65 on the temperature and pressure employed. Typically, a true flannel is obtained easily, economically and by use of textile skills that presently available. the Ifabric is calendered twice, once on each face, at be Among the man-made fibers that can be used in the tween about 20 and about 100 yds/min. (18-91Ímeter-s practice of this invention are the cellulose and cellulose per minute). An important factor in the calendering op derivative fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, poly 70 eration is the nature of the surface of the calender roll. acrylic and modacrylic fibers, polyolefìn fibers, polyvinyl As is well known in the textile finishing art, a Schreiner chloride fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, and the like. The roll is a heated, hard-surfaced roll having many fine lines 3,302,265 E 4 per inch engraved in it. Depending upon the number Y loom construction of 57 warp ends/in. (22.44 ends/cm.) of lines, the roll will compress about 50% lor more of and 54 filling picks/in. (21.26 picks/cm). The Z-twist the fabric surface `du-ring calendering. Its surface may yarns are used for the warp and the S-twist yarns are be made of alloy steel, pl-astic, ceramic or coated metal used for the filling. such as chromium or nickel plated steel. The surface The fabric is napped and sheared. The dry fabric is is preferably rust-resistant. The second roll of the calen then Schreiner calendered twice, once on each face. The der is made of a compressible composition, such as »cot-ton, Schreiner roll has a steel surface, engraved with 260 lines/ paper, wool, corn husk o-r other material that will present in. (102.36 lines/cm.) oriented at 27.5° to the warp a tough, resilient, unpatterned surface to t‘he fabric when yarns. The Schreiner roll is heated to 250° F. (121° C.). compressed against the first roll. The engraved lines on a Roll pressure is 1042 lbs/linear in. (186 kg./c1r1.). The Schreiner roll may be parallel to the warp threads of the fabric is calendered at a rate of 25 yds/min. (22.86 falbric being processed (that is, perpendicular to the axis meters/ min. ) . of rotation of the roll), or at some angle thereto. In the The fabric is then tacked (formed into an endless turbe), practice of this invention, best results are achieved with and placed dry in a fulling mill that has been modified a Schreiner roll having from about 200 to about 300 lines/ by the :addition Áof a steam line.
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