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WEDNESDAY 7 MAY 2014 • [email protected] • www.thepeninsulaqatar.com • 4455 7741 inside Kevin Spacey brings stage act CAMPUS • CISAK receives to big screen in QNSA candidacy • MES honours staff documentary P | 4 P | 8-9 COMMUNITY • Youth Hub Qatar puts focus on specialised training for youth Its saris have been a byword for sartorial elegance for P | 5 centuries and even the Buddha was laid to rest veiled in a brocade of silk hand-woven in India’s holiest city LETTER Varanasi, according to local legend. But today the • Share a thought for the abandoned Banarasi silk industry is hanging on by a thread. and needy P | 7 HEALTH • Coke to remove controversial chemical BVO from its drinks P | 11 TECHNOLOGY • Is Pitchfork in tune with all its readers? A DYING ART P | 12 Learn Arabic • Learn commonly used Arabic words SEEKS HELP and their meanings P | 13 2 PLUS | WEDNESDAY 7 MAY 2014 COVER STORY India silk weavers hang on by thread By Bhuvan Bagga by mainly Muslim weavers in the city’s backstreets, where saris and ts saris have been a byword scarfs routinely take 15-20 days for sartorial elegance for cen- to make. turies and even the Buddha The finest creations fetch Iwas laid to rest veiled in upwards of $10,000. Up until a a brocade of silk hand-woven decade ago, around 100,000 hand in India’s holiest city Varanasi, looms would crank away each day according to local legend. but the number has more than But bosses and craftsmen say halved since then. the Banarasi silk industry is hang- “We have around 40,000 now, ing on by a thread and could be the other 60,000 are ‘sick’,” said killed off within a generation by Amitabh, one of the city’s leading mass-produced garments and garment exporters who uses only Chinese competition, unless India’s one name. next government steps in. “When you talk about Banarasi “I’ve been doing this job for silk we can trace the history back more than 40 years now and my to the Lord Buddha whose body fathers and forefathers were doing was draped in it. it for around 250 years before “It’s an art, it’s a culture, it’s a me,” said Sardar Hafizullah as heritage product but it’s a dying he wove a green and gold sari on art.” the ground floor of his home in The biggest problem for the Varanasi’s Old City. weavers is simple: counterparts “But it seems that it is a dying who work in factories can earn art. It’s only people like me keep- more than double the money as ing it alive,” added the 65-year-old. they are both paid, at least in part, One of the oldest living cities in on the basis of how much cloth the world, Varanasi (also known as they can stitch in a day. Benares) draws millions of visitors “If you work on a handloom each year, whether Hindus who you get 200 rupees a day but it’s have come to bathe in the holy around 500 if you work with an waters of the Ganges or tourists electric loom,” said Amitabh. watching the world float by from “With a handloom you get one the ghats on the side of the river. metre (of cloth) in a day and with But Varanasi is also famous for machine-loom it’s 10 metres. It’s the quality of silk products crafted all about quantity.” PLUS | WEDNESDAY 7 MAY 2014 3 ‘Power is the future’ It’s a problem acknowledged by Sardar’s sons who toil away alongside their father on the three hand looms in the family’s cramped workshop. While proud of his craft, Sardar’s 32-year-old son Fayaz expects his three young sons will work in the mechanised sector when they come of age. “I want to stay doing this for the rest of my life,” he said as he took a break from operating the intricate system of levers and pulleys. “What they (his children) do will be up to them of course but I am pretty sure they will go electric. The power sector is the future.” According to the Uttar Pradesh state govern- ment, the Varanasi hand-woven silk industry is worth around $80m each year to the local econ- omy, including $20m in exports. Although the exact number of powerlooms is not known, the last official figures in 2009 showed the number had increased in the wider Varanasi region from around 2,000 to 30,000 over the pre- vious decade. Adding to the crisis has been a rise in imports of cheap Chinese-made products and of Chinese yarn which has supplanted Indian-made fabric in much of the country. “Now the Chinese imported weaved thread has become the backbone of Benares industry,” said another local industry boss Ratandeep Agarwal. “The Indian silk is gradually becoming more like an art form, for a selected ‘niche’ audience which can afford it while it is being replaced at the mass market level by the Chinese.” Shop owners say it would be a tragedy if Banarasi silk were allowed to die out but that market forces were against it. Bharat Khemka who runs the Raj Gharana sari emporium in downtown Varanasi said one customer from France recently paid `300,000 (nearly $5,000) for a hand-woven silk scarf but such extravagance is rare. Khemka said factory-made products sometimes lost their shape and colour after only one wash but the huge price difference meant customers were willing to compromise on quality. “The hand made ones are better but then they tend to cost `3,000 when the factory-made ones are `300,” he said. But despite the higher price tag, shoppers say Banarasi silk sarees must not be allowed to become museum pieces. “They are not just famous abroad but are part of our culture,” said Savitri Srivastava who was buying several saris for her daughter’s wedding. “It is considered auspicious to give them as gifts for events such as weddings or festivals.” Hopes pinned on Modi Given the grim prognosis, many in the industry The Indian silk are pinning their hopes on Narendra Modi, the is gradually man expected to win India’s ongoing general elec- tion and who is standing in Varanasi. becoming more Speaking in Varanasi last month, Modi said he was determined to help the weavers. like an art form, “The lives of weavers here can be improved for a selected with steps like branding, technology upgrades and marketing,” he said. ‘niche’ audience “If all these support mechanisms can be put which can afford in place I don’t see any reason why our weavers can’t compete with the Chinese.” it while it is being Arvind Kejriwal, leader of the Aam Aadmi replaced at the anti-corruption party and who is standing against Modi, has also made the weavers’ plight a major mass market level plank of his campaign. by the Chinese. Amitabh said the industry needed “a complete revival package”, before listing a string of com- plaints including electricity problems and multiple layers of bureaucracy and taxation. “What we want is a level playing field,” he added. AFP 4 PLUS | WEDNESDAY 7 MAY 2014 CAMPUS CISAK receives QNSA candidacy Compass International School, Al Khor (CISAK) has announced that it has achieved Candidacy Certification for its commitment to the vision of achieving the principles of the educational system in Qatar, towards consistent school improvement and quality assurance. This certification has been awarded by Qatar National Schools Accreditation (QNSA). The candidacy for accreditation engages CISAK in a system that acts as assurance of quality education in Qatar. The guidelines set by the system allow for the candidate schools to constantly strive for excellence and self-reflected improvement in an 18-month self-study programme. The QNSA inspection board has commended CISAK on being one of the youngest schools to have received the candidacy. CISAK has also undertaken the British Schools in the Middle East and British Schools Overseas accreditations. The school is awaiting finalisation of the reports. Ideal Indian School observed Earth Day with a number of activities in all its Bhavan’s Public School felicitated E Sreedharan, principal adviser to Kochi sections. The tiny tots of the KG Wing pledged to keep their environment clean. Metro Rail and architect of Konkan Railways and Delhi Metro, in an event at its The theme of this year’s celebration was “Teach today, Change tomorrow”. The Matar Qadeem campus recently. The principal, V L Balasubramanian, welcomed children presented a display dressed up as drop of water, plants, flowers, and the chief guest. Dr Sreedharan addressed the audience. a happy and sad earth. o appreciate the service staff of Shantiniketan Indian TSchool as well as Barwa Village, the CBSE (i) students facilitated 60 workers by presenting a cultural programme and gifting each a hamper of goodies consisting of biscuits, sugar, rice, juices, Maggie chicken noodles, vegetable noodles, soap, macaroni, T-shirts, tomato paste, spaghetti, wafers, soup packets, oil, Horlicks and other such items. In his address, Principal Dr Subhash Nair said the school’s mission was to provide an environment that led the learner to excel in pursuit of knowledge and experience in an atmos- phere of genuine freedom and profound joy, being a symbol of innovation committed to providing education that blended head and heart and nurtured human and humane qualities. The day saw smiles of joy and satisfaction on the faces of the service staff of the school and Barwa Village.