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Traveling Los Lagos Viajando Por Los Lagos

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Traveling Los Lagos Viajando Por Los Lagos LOS LAGOS TOURISM SPECIAL Traveling NICOLAS ROUVIERE Los Lagos Viajando por Los Lagos By Wayne Bernhardson 46 Patagon Journal ESPECIAL TURISMO LOS LAGOS Right/Derecha Curanto on Isla Chiloé. Curanto en la Isla de Chiloé. Left/Izquierda: Rafting at Rio Petruhué. Rafting en el río Petrohué. CANPAS JOSEI n 1979, the first time I visited the Los Lagos region, I crossed the cordillera from Argentina to find landscapes that looked like the Pacific Northwest, where I grew up. Over the ensuing decades Iworking on travel guidebooks about Chile and Patagonia, I’ve explored almost every corner of the region, also known to English speakers as Chile’s Lake District. My trips have constantly reaffirmed for me that the densely forested slopes, snowy volcanic cones and azure lakes in Los Lagos are almost a mirror image of Washington State, Oregon and British Columbia. The Los Lagos region has long welcomed foreign visitors. In 1913, former U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt was one of the earliest recorded celebrities to enjoy the Cruce de Lagos route over the stun- ning Andean lakes that’s now a bus-boat shuttle from Puerto Varas to the Argentine city of San Carlos de Bariloche. The journey Roosevelt helped pioneer is today one of the region’s classics, easily done in a day though it’s tempting to spend at least an overnight at Peulla, the lakeport at the east end of Lagos Todos los n 1979, la primera vez que visité la región de Los Lagos, crucé la cordillera desde Argentina para encontrar paisajes que parecían el noroeste del Pacífico, donde crecí. Durante Elas siguientes décadas trabajando en guías de viajes sobre Chile y Patagonia, he explorado casi todos los rincones de la región. Mis viajes me han reafirmado constantemente que las laderas den- samente arboladas, conos volcánicos nevados y lagos azules en Los Lagos son casi una imagen en el espejo del estado de Washington, Oregón y la Columbia Británica. Personalmente me hace bien venir aquí, pero también este efecto lo producen las personas que he llegado a conocer a lo largo de los años. La región de Los Lagos ha acogido siempre a los visitantes extran- jeros. En 1913, el antiguo presidente de EE.UU. Theodore Roosevelt fue una de las famosas celebridades en disfrutar de la ruta Cruce de Lagos en los impresionantes lagos andinos, que ahora es un servicio de autobús-barco desde Puerto Varas a la ciudad argentina de San Carlos de Bariloche. Patagon Journal 47 LOS LAGOS TOURISM SPECIAL Hacia Hacia -Lago Puelo -Esquel -El Bolsón Paso Paso De -Chubut Hacia Bariloche Río Puelo Hacia Esquel Futaleufú Paso Río Paso Pérez Encuentro Lago Paso Cardenal Hacia Lago de Lago Palena Antonio Samoré -La Angostura Rosales Las Rocas Interior Reserva Nac. -Bariloche Lago Azul Futaleufú Palena Futaleufú Cerro Caza de Segundo ARGENTINA Tronador Jabalíes Corral R Llanada ío R Escalada M Grande ío Parque Nac. a elo F Peulla n Pu u Puyehue Valle de s ío t o R Lago Espolón a Cochamó le u Hotel Peulla f ú R í o C o Parque Nac. c Volcán Casablanca h Puerto Pérez Rosales a Lago m Lago Lago Ramírez ó Tagua Tagua Yelcho Salto del Cruce de Termas Parque Nac. Reñihue Calzoncillo Lagos de Ralún Hornopirén Termas del Cochamó Amarillo Ralún Puelo Volcán Lago todo Ciencia Hornopirén Villa Santa Lucía Los santos E Saltos de st Marina ua r Parque Puerto Hacia Volcán Puntiagudo Petrohué Canutillar io Volcán Yates Pumalin Termas de d Fiordo Parque Cárdenas -Puerto Aysén e Fiordo Huinay Quintupeo Pumalin -Coyhaique Puyehue Petrohué R XIV REGIÓN e Cahuelmó Leptepú l Hornopirén o Lago n puTermas de Fiordo c e o a t h Puyehue Lago ep Porcelana Largo lc v L o Volcán e Chapo í mau Y Ensenada o Co DE LOS RIOS Parque Nac. rd Chaitén ío XI REGIÓN Fio R Lago Alerce Andino Caleta Caleta Volcán Osorno Termas de Rupanco Las La Arena Gonzalo Pichicolo Península de Huequi Entre Cascadas Chaica Lagos Volcán Calbuco e DE AYSÉN Buil u Lago Rupanco Fiesta h Lenca Hualaihué ñi CHAITÉN Trebol Costumbrísta Re Ayacara o Lago Piedra Azul Contao rd Parque Nac. Reloncaví io Llanquihue o de F Corcovado Museo del Sen Carpinteros én Automóvil de Chamiza de Ribera Volcán Corcovado Hacia u iq Moncopulli Puerto -La Unión a -Valdivia m Octay il -Santiago P Río Islas Isla Guar Teatro PUERTO Desertores Llanquihue Puerto del Lago MONTT Bahía e Varas Isla Tictoc u h Puluqui a R San Pablo Frutillar o í Islas R Purranque Chauques SIMBOLOGÍA OSORNO Calbuco Iglesia Golfo De Ancud Jesús Nazareno Apiao Trumao de Caguach Clasificación de Caminos Otros Símbolos Iglesia RUTA 5 / PANAMERICANA Río Negro Museo Colonial Alemán Monte Nuestra Señora CARRETERA CENTRO DE SKY Quilacahuín de Frutillar Verde del Patrocinio Tenaún CAMINO CONSOLIDADO Fuerte Isla RUTA TRANSBORDADOR Reina Luisa Quicaví Tranqui TERMAS Quinchao R Iglesia San Juan Los í de la Costa o Santa María Tegualda Muermos Queilen Clasificación de Ciudades M Quemchi de Loreto PARQUE / RESERVA Fresia a Puaucho u Pargua Achao Isla Hueyusca llín Curaco CAPITAL REGIONAL Chacao Lemuy TRANSBORDADOR Cemeneterio Indígena De Vélez Rilán CAPITALES PROVINCIALES Misión de la Costa Hito Cero Isla Laitec o Iglesia Quellón CASINO n Avistamiento CAPITALES COMUNALES e de Aves Nuestra Señora u Maullín B Cordillera del Sarao de los Dolores Iglesia PASO FRONTERIZO o Dalcahue OTRAS LOCALIDADES í Fuerte de Puqueldón Nuestra Señora R Carelmapu Ancud Pucatrihue Ba. Reserva del Rosario Mansa Mapu Lahual Chonchi Maicolpué Ancud ISLA Parga Laguna E GRANDE Chaiguata Bahía Golfo Coronados Faro Lago DE CHILOÉ San Pedro Corona Chepu Huillinco Parque Nat. Parque Nac. Tepuheico Chiloé Inio Puñihuil Pta. Ahuenco Parque Nac. N Mar Brava Cucao S O C É A Chiloé N Pinguineras O Parque Nat. P A O Tantauco X REGIÓN DE LOS LAGOS C Í F I C O Santos, to appreciate the peaks and forests of Vicente Pérez Rosales One underrated aspect of the region is its food. Chile in general, and National Park, Chile’s first national park. Pérez Rosales, for whom the Los Lagos in particular, has some of the world’s most diverse seafood park is named, was responsible for the large-scale German coloniza- – one U.S. food writer wrote that he felt as if he were looking at “the tion of southern Chile in the 1850s. Thousands of Germans settled in marine life of another planet,” what with shoe-sized mussels, succulent Los Lagos towns like Frutillar, Puerto Octay, Puerto Varas, Osorno, and scallops, razor clams, locos (“false abalone”) and fresh fish including Puerto Montt, leaving a lasting imprint on the local culture, seen most the so-called “Chilean sea bass,” more accurately called the Patagonian visibly in the architecture of many old homes and churches in the area. toothfish. The simple restaurants at Angelmó, a fish and crafts market Throughout the region, the roads are often excellent and almost at the western end of Puerto Montt’s waterfront, offer hearty versions all of them are improving rapidly. Unlike in the United States, there is of almost everything that comes from the sea, but there are also more frequent and affordable public transportation even to some relatively sophisticated options at resort towns like Puerto Varas. For dessert, remote areas – unless time is critically important, renting a car is rarely Germanic pastries known collectively as Kuchen are widespread here. necessary. For instance, to get to the backcountry of Cochamó – with Puerto Montt, meanwhile, is the starting point for several adven- granite faces that can match Yosemite’s finest – from the picturesque tures deeper south into Patagonia, such as a personal favorite, a three town of Puerto Varas, several buses daily drop passengers directly at day Navimag ferry trip that passes through a landscape resembling Campo Aventura Eco-Lodge, the starting point for hikes and horseback Alaska’s Inside Passage or the Norwegian fjords before arriving in rides into a lush temperate rainforest. Puerto Natales, gateway to the famous Torres del Paine park. 48 Patagon Journal ESPECIAL TURISMO LOS LAGOS Hacia Hacia -Lago Puelo -Esquel -El Bolsón Paso Paso De -Chubut Hacia Bariloche Río Puelo Hacia Esquel Futaleufú Paso Río Paso Pérez Encuentro Lago Paso Cardenal Hacia Lago de Lago Palena Antonio Samoré -La Angostura Rosales Las Rocas Interior Reserva Nac. -Bariloche Lago Azul Futaleufú Palena Futaleufú Cerro Caza de Segundo ARGENTINA Tronador Jabalíes Corral R Llanada ío R Escalada M Grande ío Parque Nac. a elo F Peulla n Pu u Puyehue Valle de s ío t o R Lago Espolón a Cochamó le u Hotel Peulla f ú R í o C o Parque Nac. c Volcán Casablanca h Puerto Pérez Rosales a Lago m Lago Lago Ramírez ó Tagua Tagua Yelcho Salto del Cruce de Termas Parque Nac. Reñihue Calzoncillo Lagos de Ralún Hornopirén Termas del Cochamó Amarillo Ralún Puelo Volcán Lago todo Ciencia Hornopirén Villa Santa Lucía Los santos E Saltos de st Marina ua r Parque Puerto Hacia Volcán Puntiagudo Petrohué Canutillar io Volcán Yates Pumalin Termas de d Fiordo Parque Cárdenas -Puerto Aysén e Fiordo Huinay Quintupeo Pumalin -Coyhaique Puyehue Petrohué R XIV REGIÓN e Cahuelmó Leptepú l Hornopirén o Lago n puTermas de Fiordo c e o a t h Puyehue Lago ep Porcelana Largo lc v L o Volcán e Chapo í mau Y Ensenada o Co DE LOS RIOS Parque Nac. rd Chaitén ío XI REGIÓN Fio R Lago Alerce Andino Caleta Caleta Volcán Osorno Termas de Rupanco Las La Arena Gonzalo Pichicolo Península de Huequi Entre Cascadas Chaica Lagos Volcán Calbuco e DE AYSÉN Buil u Lago Rupanco Fiesta h Lenca Hualaihué ñi CHAITÉN Trebol Costumbrísta Re Ayacara o Lago Piedra Azul Contao rd Parque Nac.
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