WALKING IN ’S About the Author Gillian Price has trekked throughout Asia and the Himalayas but now lives WALKING IN in Venice and is exploring the mountains and flatter bits of Italy and the Mediterranean. Starting with the Italian Dolomites, Gillian has written out- ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE standing Cicerone guides to walking all over Italy as well as Corfu and Corsica. An adamant promoter of the use of public transport to minimise environmental impact, she is an active member of the Italian Alpine Club , , , CAI. Check her out at www.gillianprice.eu. AND Other Cicerone guides by the author by Gillian Price Across the Eastern Alps: E5 Walking and Trekking on Corfu Alpine Flowers Walking in Corsica Italy’s Sibillini National Park Walking in Italy’s Stelvio Shorter Walks in the Dolomites National Park The Tour of the Bernina Walking in Sicily Through the Italian Alps – Walking in the Dolomites the GTA Walking in Tuscany Trekking in the Alps (contributor) Walking in Umbria Trekking in the Apennines – Walking on the Amalfi Coast the GEA Walking Lake Como and Maggiore Trekking in the Dolomites Walking Lake Garda and Iseo Walking and Trekking in Walks and Treks in the JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, Gran Paradiso Maritime Alps OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Gillian Price 2019 CONTENTS First edition 2019 ISBN: 978 1 85284 973 3 Map key...... 7 Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd Overview Map...... 8 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. INTRODUCTION ...... 11 Exploring the Cinque Terre...... 12 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Walking...... 17 Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap Plants and flowers ...... 19 contributors, CC-BY-SA. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Wildlife ...... 20 Getting there and getting around ...... 21 Information...... 22 Dedication When to go ...... 23 Accommodation...... 23 As well as my special companion Nicola, I was very fortunate to enjoy the Food and drink...... 24 company of dear Alison in the Cinque Terre. Her enthusiasm never flagged even What to take...... 26 when faced with endless flights of steep steps that always seemed to go uphill. Maps ...... 26 (Could it have been the promise of gelato?) Dos and don’ts...... 27 Emergencies...... 29 Using this guide...... 30 Updates to this Guide WALKS...... 31 Walk 1 Levanto to Monterosso...... 32 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks Walk 2 Monterosso via Colla di Gritta circuit...... 36 as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any Walk 3 Monterosso to Vernazza via the sanctuaries...... 41 updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www. Walk 4 Monterosso to Vernazza on the SVA...... 45 cicerone.co.uk/973/updates), so please check before planning your trip. Walk 5 Vernazza to Corniglia on the SVA ...... 49 We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, Walk 6 Corniglia via Cigoletta and San Bernardino to Vernazza...... 53 accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. Walk 7 Corniglia via Volastra to Manarola...... 58 The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, Walk 8 Manarola panoramic loop...... 63 databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the Walk 9 Manarola to Riomaggiore on Via Beccara...... 66 detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a published Walk 10 Riomaggiore high circuit...... 70 map from an official mapping agency, although naturally we have reviewed them Walk 11 Riomaggiore low circuit...... 74 closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide. Walk 12 Riomaggiore to ...... 77 We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between Walk 13 Campiglia circuit via Monesteroli and Fossola...... 83 a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone. Walk 14 Punta Persico...... 87 co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Walk 15 Porto Venere and Monte Muzzerone ...... 90 Kendal, LA9 7RL. Walk 16 Palmaria island circuit...... 93 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Appendix A Village maps...... 98 Appendix B Route summary table ...... 102 Appendix C Useful information ...... 103 Front cover: A marvellous panoramic point overlooking the southern side of Vernazza Appendix D Glossary...... 104 (Walk 5) Appendix E Accommodation...... 106 Riomaggiore is a long way below (Walk 11) Map key

Symbols used on route maps

route Relief in metres alternative route

start point 1000–1200 800–1000 finish point 600–800 start/finish point 400–600 route direction 200–400

woodland 0–200

urban areas

station/railway SCALE: 1:50,000 peak 0 kilometres 0.5 1 building 0 miles 0.5 church/monastery/cross Contour lines are castle or tower drawn at 25m intervals and highlighted at pass 100m intervals. bus stop

ferry

ferry route

tourist info

car park

other feature

GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/973/GPX.

6 7 Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Overview map

Framura

to Castello Montale

Levanto Chiesanuova Santo Stefano 1 di Magra Piano di Follo to Graveglia Parma Riccò del 234 Golfo di Spezia Monterosso Vezzano al Mare 5 Ligure Vernazza Sarbia 67 Ponte di Corniglia Arcola to Pisa Arcola ManarolaManarola Ressora LA 89 SPEZIA Riomaggiore Fabiano Romito Magra Alto LIGURIAN !#$ Cerri SEA Acquasanta Muggiano Pugliola Il Pianello %& Campiglia Le Grazie Gulf of Tellaro N ( Porto Venere ) 0 2 4 Palmaria km

8 9  WManarolaalking in has Italy a magnificent’s Cinque T settingerre

INTRODUCTION

The seafront of Riomaggiore is a celebrated spot around sunset

Pastel coloured villages are wedged We’re talking about a mere 12km of into dizzy rock promontories over rugged coast that is home to glid- the sparkling sea, defying gravity. ing seagulls and the ‘Famous Five’. Between them, row upon row of There’s nowhere else like it, and it is man-made terraces appear to cascade duly recognised with UNESCO World down vertiginous mountainsides. Heritage Site status. Neck-craningly steep paths lead to So what exactly are the Cinque spectacular lookouts that take your Terre? And why do people flock here breath away. Secluded coves with tur- from all over the globe? The ‘five quoise water are the reward for ven- lands’ as they translate literally, cor- turing down hundreds of knee-chal- respond to the villages of Monterosso, lenging stone steps. Brilliant carpets of Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Mediterranean wildflowers add to the Riomaggiore. Nowadays the Cinque irresistible charm, as does the superb Terre are home to around 4400 resi- cuisine based on locally grown olives dents in all, many of whom work in and wine. This is in north west tourism. Starting in the late Middle Italy, and these are the Cinque Terre. Ages they were built up bit by bit

10 11 Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Exploring the Cinque Terre around narrow steep arpaie stair- EXPLORING THE CINQUE TERRE THE TERRACED LANDSCAPE ways and carrugi alleys suitable for In addition to the five principal vil- donkeys and people. Every available lages and hinterland which come With the exception of Monterosso, the Cinque Terre were traditionally agri- scrap of land was exploited for the under the protection of the Parco cultural rather than being oriented towards fishing. Over the centuries some tower-like houses constructed one Nazionale Cinque Terre (www. 2000 hectares (65% of the total land) of the outrageously steep hillsides atop the other. Their coastal loca- parconazionale5terre.it) this guide- from the water’s edge up to 400m above sea level have been crafted into tion set them up as vulnerable tar- book includes neighbouring settle- immaculate terracing with cian or strips of arable land, by generation upon gets for raids by Saracen pirates who ments that offer worthwhile pathways. generation of hard-working farmers. The land first needed to be deforested, plagued the Ligurian coast for cen- These are seafront Levanto in the roots and rocks removed, then levelled out as far as possible. Soil was car- turies and led to the construction of north, mountainside Campiglia further ried in, and using the stones removed earlier, painstakingly buttressed with the many landmark watchtowers. As down, then charming Porto Venere at the construction of a mind-boggling estimated 7000km of dry stone walls. of the 1200s these were further forti- the southern extremity on the opening Run-off channels were excavated alongside. The terracing requires regular fied when the villages passed under of the Gulf of La Spezia. Each place expert maintenance to counter landslips and wall bulges that can lead to the control of the mighty maritime has a distinct character and for differ- collapses and threaten paths. Crops such as olives are still grown as well republic of Genoa. ent reasons makes a great base for a as grapes. The traditional system for planting vines was referred to as the Land-based products such as walking holiday. All are easily acces- vigna bassa low vine, though arbours and rows have now replaced this. It 2 wine, olives, oil, capers, citrus fruits sible by public transport, and have has been calculated that each hectare of vineyard is supported by 4000m and chestnut flour were once carried tourist and park info offices, ATM of stone. by man and mule downhill for ship- cash points, as well as grocery shops, September is usually the time for the grape harvest, and the fruit is trans- ping to market ports such as Genoa. cafés and restaurants, and masses of ported to a roadhead on ingenious monorails. The coast and villages are still linked accommodation. The sole exception one to the other – and the terraced is Campiglia which has no info office Terraced hillsides overlooking Corniglia fields – by ancient pathways, mostly or ATM. Helpful maps of the villages with heart-stopping flights of stone can be found in Appendix A. steps. Due to the geography – hun- Starting in the north west, Levanto dreds of metres below a towering is a natural entry gate to the Cinque cliff ridge spelled isolation for centu- Terre for visitors arriving by rail from ries – the paths were the main way the Ligurian regional capital of Genoa. for the inhabitants to get around. The no-frills town has plenty of advan- (These days a handful of roads reach tages, ranging from easy access, lower the seafront settlements, while a prices and a decent beach, though landmark railway burrows through it is rather lacking in charm. Walk 1 the mountainsides.) So what better starts its marvellous traverse here. way to explore this unique area than Separated from Levanto and the on foot? Sentiero is the Italian for rest of the world by a high ridge cul- ‘path’, and there’s certainly no lack minating in the rugged headland of of them here, all well marked and Punta Mesco, spread-out Monterosso signposted. These are simply superb al Mare (with a population of 1468) routes for walkers, who flock here to is the only one of the Cinque Terre to discover a paradise. boast a beach worthy of that name

12 13 Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Exploring the Cinque Terre

The middle village of the five, the upper hamlets such as lovely charming Corniglia is by far the qui- Volastra, visited on Walk 7. etest thanks to its elevated position The last of the Cinque Terre is perched on a vertiginous clifftop lively Riomaggiore. According to headland. This may explain the origin local hearsay it was founded by eighth of its name from ‘corno’ rocky spur. century Greeks fleeing persecution From the railway station you go up the in their homeland. The name derives famous Scalinata Lardarina, a zigzag- from the Rivus Major watercourse, ging brick stairway composed of 382 now hidden away beneath tarmac. steps and 33 ramps – though there’s Over time Riomaggiore grew into a also a bus run via the road. In addition sizeable village, typical narrow alleys to elegant churches and cosy houses, lined with tower-like buildings piled it boasts a belvedere terrace for leg- on top of each other and looked over endary sunsets over the Ligurian by a humble castle; the last census Sea. The 195 resident numbers are gave a population of 1542. The sea- boosted by those who move back in front is an especially celebrated spot the warmer months, as happens in the of an evening when the orange rays of Magnificent Vernazza seen from a cliffside path other terre. Challenging Walks 6 and the setting sun light up the coloured 7 begin at Corniglia. houses that appear to topple off the The following stop is beautiful cliffs. Over winter the traditional fish- – an inviting expanse of golden sand breakwaters is overlooked by the Manarola. Here a divine sheltered ing boats are dragged out of the water stretching along an ample bay. As elegant Romanesque church of Santa bay and harbour are popular with and ‘parked’ in piles to keep them safe well as a fair amount of level land, Margherita d’Antiochia. Uphill is swimmers who clamber up rock pin- during storms. Circuit Walks 10 and Monterosso has roads and a modern a remnant of the Castello Doria, a nacles to dive into the clear blue sea. 11 begin here, as does the extended section called Fegina with a batch of Genoese construction with a medi- The houses here are squeezed into traverse Walk 12. hotels, not to mention a railway station. eval watchtower later converted a narrow valley, leaving plenty of Perched at 400m altitude on a A pleasant seafront promenade runs into a windmill, not to mention its space for the extensive terraced vine- panoramic saddle boasting marvel- through a road tunnel to the old centro use as an anti-aircraft structure dur- yards above. The name may derive lous views looking both to the Gulf of storico, passing a watchtower occupy- ing the Second World War. The vil- from magna rota, the large wheel of La Spezia and over the Ligurian Sea, ing a rocky point. The great Italian poet lage name derives from Vulnetia, an the water-driven mill that can still be laidback Campiglia sees few visitors. Eugenio Montale, winner of the Nobel ancient Roman family, though the seen in the main street – a convinc- With a permanent population of 60 Prize for Literature in 1975, spent his first historical records date back to the ing explanation as a river crossed by that swells during the summer months, childhood years on vacation here and 1000s. Once an independent village 11 stone bridges flowed here until the the mountainside hamlet is an inviting the landscape is a constant in his work. (that carried out its own raids!), it was 1950–1970s when it was paved over. spot and is the start for Walks 13 and Walks 2, 3 and 4 explore the wooded brought under Genoa in 1211 and Another mammoth task was the long 14 that visit secluded coves. It has a hills and coastal track starting here. became a strategic base against arch pedestrian tunnel that burrows under good bus service to La Spezia and Next along is superbly pho- rival Pisa. A delightful place to stay, a cliff connecting the railway sta- also offers groceries, a handful of res- togenic Vernazza snuggling in a Vernazza has 852 permanent inhabit- tion. Walks 8 and 9 commence here. taurants and accommodation. secluded cove. A modest pocket ants, a railway station carved into the Manarola has 353 residents, counting Another ‘ring-in’ in the south east of sand and harbour protected by hillside, and is the start for Walk 5. is utterly charming Porto Venere that

14 15 Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Walk 1 – Levanto to Monterosso

ro ra ia WALK 1 h G te n e Gallona Levanto to Monterosso rr

To

S p

5 6 6 Legnaro d

i Start Levanto railway station r Monte Finish Monterosso railway station Serro Distance 8.5km Chiesanuova Ascent 400m Levanto Descent 400m Fontona Grade 2 castello Can Walking time 2hr 45min ta r Colla a Refreshments Case Lovara n di a Gritta Access Trains on the La Spezia–Levanto line stop at Levanto and Monterosso. Hotel La Giada Montenegro del Mesco 445m A marvellously varied traverse across the lofty Punta Mesco headland, this Monte Focone route links Levanto with Monterosso, the first of the Cinque Terre villages, as well as the national park. It also doubles as the opening stage in the 488m memorable multi-day trek from Levanto all the way to Porto Venere. En route Monterosso al Mare here are plenty of vast open views, gardens and woodland. You also pass Ligurian Sea Case Lovara, a traditional renovated working farmhouse run by FAI, the Italian National Trust, where refreshments, meals and accommodation are Case on offer (www.poderecaselovara.it). N Lovara At the end of the walk, do factor in time for a well-earned swim – there’s plenty of free public sand alongside the fee-paying serviced patches with umbrellas and deck chairs. Sant’Antonio al Mesco 0 1 km Punta Mesco

From Levanto railway station go down the stairs and fol- You may like to low the main road as it curves across the Ghiararo river. detour via the Continue straight ahead on Corso Roma, seawards.4Just charming old town before the waterfront and Piazza Mazzini, branch L on centre – but make Corso Italia along to a park then R under the arches of a sure you end up raised road (formerly the railway) where red/white SVA on the seafront waymarks appear. These lead past the Casinò Municipale afterwards to pick and a swimming pool and on to the promenade Via up the walk.

32 33 The path leaves Levanto at the waterfront arches Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Walk 1 – Levanto to Monterosso

Gaetano Semenza overlooking the lovely bay. Not far along at some arches don’t miss the signed SVA fork L up stepped Salita San Giorgio. It wastes no time climbing past elegant villas to the 13th century castello. Go R on the cobbled way S past houses and up into woodland. You join the road for a short stretch as far as Hotel La Giada del Mesco for a R turn. This path drops around a panoramic point. A gentle descent through olive groves and orchards sees you approaching Punta Mesco, its rug- ged rocky point plunging into the sea. As the properties finish, the SVA begins rising through shady holm oak wood on a well graded stepped lane up to a marvellously panoramic stretch through flowering shrubs with stomach-dropping views over the turquoise sea and coves 250 metres below. A curve around a side valley sees you at Case Lovara The farm property (255m, 1hr 40min).3Now a rockier path heads uphill can be visited and SE, a glorious stretch. You’re soon at a junction – go R refreshments had. past an old tower and R again with brilliant views over Monterosso and all the way along the coast to the islands off Porto Venere. Not far on you reach the tiny church of Sant’Antonio al Mesco (311m, 20min).

A long-gone monastery was inhabited throughout the 14th century by hermits. It doubled as a watch- tower and there’s a Second World War bunker to boot. You’re high above Punta Mesco and long along the seafront of Monterosso lined with beach huts Admiring the great abandoned quarries where sandstone was once and cafés to the railway station (12m, 45min). view over Monterosso extracted to pave the streets of Monterosso.

Return to the last junction and branch R as the SVA begins its decisive downhill plunge, mostly NE on giant steps that can be knee-testing. A fair way down you tum- ble out onto the road near Hotel Bellevue and take the tarmac. The path soon resumes before a final bit of road past houses to an easy-to-miss fork R for the final drop past a tower house. Steps wind down overlooking a small harbour to join a concrete lane L past another tower shaded by a magnificent maritime pine. Then it’s a stroll

34 35