Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 323 Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers

Introduction human towers, and become a stable Alexandre beacon of this intangible practice. Rebollo Sánchez arta Casals, The hitherto unsuccessful idea for a Holds a degree in the wife of the casteller museum originally surfaced history from Rovira i Virgili University and famous cellist half a century ago, making it necessary a Master’s in Cultural Pau Casals, to look at the activity’s chronological Heritage Management justified the evolution, the actors involved, and the and Museum Studies from the University of . He has worked as a passion her formal changes that have been made. curator in the Conca de Barberà county husband from El Vendrell had for the However, there is also the question of museum and has collaborated with the world of the casteller, the human tower how this intangible heritage can be dis- museography company, Molècula, the M Museum of Rural Life, and the Catalan builders, by saying that, for him, they played in a museographic form, and Human Tower Museum in Valls. were the soul of the nation. Indeed, the challenges posed by the manage- over the past half century castells have ment of such heritage. become, even more so, an ineffable the museum’s own history to how this symbol of Catalan identity and cul- Likewise, the decision to place the entity is seen by member of the Valls ture, breaking out from the Camp de museum in the city of Valls is a community, as well as what its arrival and Penedès area, spread- response to the semiotic characteris- in the old quarter of the city will mean. ing throughout , and even tic of the castells, but within the city beyond. This popularisation of tower the fact that the old quarter has been The Human Tower Builder building has led to a huge increase in designated as its home, opens up a new Museum, more than half a the number of groups practising the topic of debate. The area is partially century of projects pastime as well as diades – the special depopulated and has visible structural The Museu Casteller is somewhat of days where the groups come together degradation, but efforts are being made a paradox, since despite not being up to build castells. This has happened in to remedy this situation, including the and running it has almost sixty years parallel to the process of granting the siting of the Museu Casteller. It will of history. practice heritage status, something that be interesting, then, to see whether or was particularly supported by govern- not urban regeneration or remodel- By going through local periodicals such mental bodies and the community of ling is possible through the creation of as Juventud, Cultura, La Crònica de castellers, and which reached a peak cultural spaces. This is an act techni- l’Alt Camp (digitised by the Alt Camp in 2010, when human towers were cally known as gentrification and has Regional Archive and available online) included in UNESCO’s Representa- recently been undertaken by several, and newspapers such as El Vallenc, as tive List of Intangible Cultural Heritage relatively nearby, cities, like Paris, Bar- well as other national publications such of Humanity. As part of the dynamic of celona, Bilbao and Santander. as Destino and La Vanguàrdia, you can assessing the heritage value of castells, construct an accurate timeline of the the creation of a museum or cultural In short, it involves laying on the table relationship between Valls and the institution to become a permanent the network of cultural, social, urban Museu Casteller. emblem of the tradition has featured and cultural processes in Valls that is prominently: the Museu Casteller de being woven around the Museu Castel- The idea of building a museum cen- Catalunya, based in the town of Valls. ler de Catalunya as a focus point, from tre dedicated to human towers, and

This work is devoted to the new cen- Keywords: Intangible heritage, museums, human towers, castells, gentrification tre, soon to be added to Catalonia’s Paraules clau: patrimoni immaterial, museus, castells, gentrificació museum map, which should focus the heritage activity surrounding these Palabras clave: patrimonio inmaterial, museos, castells, gentrificación 324 RESEARCH Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya December 2017 Núm. 42

The new square created inside the Museu Casteller (May 2017). ALEX REBOLLO more specifically the Xiquets de Valls Català Roca must be considered one of esting to see how this exhibition was group, was first mentioned in print in the project’s main supporters. just the first museographic act relating November 1958, when the local maga- to the world of the castellers, not only zine Semanario Juventud de Valls ran a Although the display room for the in Valls but throughout Catalonia. small article entitled “Un Museo de los Xiquets de Valls group never came Four years later, in 1968, the city of Xiquets de Valls”, explaining the desire about, it did give rise to the February Tarragona picked up the baton at the to reserve a room in one of the town’s 1964 exhibition entitled “Vida e historia , with a new human public buildings as a place to exhibit de los Xiquets de Valls y de los castells tower exhibition at Casa Castellarnau. photographs, trophies, souvenirs, and en general”, the life and history of the In this case, the casteller groups of Valls, other objects related to castells. The ini- Xiquets de Valls and of human towers in El Vendrell, Vilafranca del Penedès, and tiative was lauded from the pages of the general, set up specifically to raise funds L’Arboç all participated, as well as those magazine Destino, in January 1959, by for the monument to the Xiquets de from Tarragona itself. It was a remark- the photographer from Valls, Pere Cat- Valls that the county town of Alt Camp able achievement as it broke away from alà Roca. Indeed, as of that moment, wanted to build. It is, however, inter- the local character of the earlier exhibi-

Lately, castells, or human towers, have En paral·lel a la patrimonialització dels Últimamente se ha producido un proce- been strengthened as a symbol of the castells, darrerament s’ha esdevingut un so de afirmación y patrimonialización de Catalan identity in parallel to them being procés de consolidació d’aquests com a los castells como símbolo de la identidad raised to heritage status, attaining the símbol de la identitat catalana, els quals catalana. Estos han obtenido los máxi- highest official distinction as Intangible han assolit els màxims distintius oficials mos distintivos oficiales y han sido de- Cultural Heritage of Humanity as rec- i han estat declarats Patrimoni Cultural clarados Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial ognised by UNESCO. Because of this, Immaterial de la Humanitat per la UNES- de la Humanidad por la UNESCO. Por there is a need for a central base where CO. Per això els cal una seu estable on eso necesitan una sede estable donde this pastime can be permanently exhib- mostrar-ne la pràctica permanentment: mostrar su práctica: el Museo Casteller ited: the Museu Casteller de Catalunya, el Museu Casteller de Catalunya de de Cataluña de Valls. El artículo repasa in Valls. The article reviews the history of Valls. L’article repassa la trajectòria del la trayectoria del museo (ideado hace the museum (conceived more than half a museu (ideat fa més de mig segle) i la más de medio siglo) y su inclusión en century ago) as well as its inclusion in the seva inclusió en el procés de patrimonia- el proceso de patrimonialización de los heritage status process of castells and lització dels castells, així com el vessant castells, así como la vertiente de regene- the urban regeneration involved in it be- de regeneració urbanística que suposa ración urbana que supone ubicarlo en el ing situated in the old quarter in Valls. ubicar-lo al Barri Antic de Valls. Barrio Antiguo de Valls. Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 325 tion in Valls, and took strides towards setting, proposed for installation, by However, the end of the century was a universality that would become the the groups in Valls. (Department of also tainted by disagreements about key to the project. The report on the Culture, 1984: 94) the location of the museum: while the exhibition in the Diario Español was city council stood firmly behind Ca written by a journalist from Tarragona, As a result, the Catalan Government, Segarra, the Catalan Government’s Lluís Mezquida (under the pseudonym through the Museum Service, inter- Ministry of Culture was looking for of Petrofilo) who, seeing the success, vened with the intention of revitalising other options, highlighting the short- advocated for the creation of a folk the project. Therefore, in 1984, Daniel comings of the building in Plaça del museum in Tarragona – without doubt Ventura Solé, a painter from Valls, was Blat. At the start of the new century, the predecessor of the current Casa de appointed director and a large exhibi- alternative proposals arose, among la Festa – where the castellers had their tion on the museum was held in the which was a suggestion to use the old own space. old Sant Roc Hospital. The display was military barracks that was then being accompanied by the official presenta- occupied the Narcís Oller secondary Years later, in 1976, in the context of tion ceremony for the museum pro- school. With the change in municipal the annual get together of the Colla ject, chaired by representatives of the government after the 2003 elections, Joves dels Xiquets de Valls human institutions involved as well as casteller this last location gained favour and Ca tower group, the city’s mayor Romà groups from around Catalonia. Segarra was sidelined. The project was Galimany announced the coun- given a further boost when, on Octo- cil’s serious desire to create a casteller The unsuitability of the old Sant Roc ber 25, 2003, in the building of the for- museum, anticipating it opening in hospital building led to the search for mer military barracks, the Minister of 1978. Although this deadline was not a new space, which would eventually Culture, the President of the Diputació met, in 1978, the Institut d’Estudis result in the building of Ca Segarra, in de Tarragona, the Mayor of Valls, and Vallencs, through its Folklore Com- Plaça del Blat. During the main Sant the President of the casteller association mission, joined the project as an inde- Joan festival in 1985, the doors were signed the consortium constitution pendent commission to give a boost to opened to a permanent exhibition on that made the museum possible. the museum. At that time, the IEV, was the casteller world, housed on the first also looking for a place for its activities, floor of the building. However, this However, the saga of where the Museu causing them to suggest the facilities exhibition was not regularly open to Casteller de Catalunya was to be of the old Sant Roc Hospital as both the public, but was for specially booked located does not end here; in October the headquarters for the Institute and visits, in particular coinciding with the 2007, Valls town council published the Museu Casteller. Along the same town’s main festivals, such as Santa the construction of a new building lines, during the 1981 Festes de la Can- Úrsula and the Christmas festivities. for the museum, outside the town, dela celebrations a casteller exhibition in Partida de Ruanes. The new pro- was held with part of what was to be Once again, structural deficiencies in ject was presented in October 2009 museum funding. the building obliged the display to close by its author, the Barcelona architect its doors, only two years after its start- Daniel Freixes and his company Varis In parallel to what was happening in up. Additionally, despite the fact that Arquitectes SLP, together with the top Valls, there were discussions at the work began in Ca Segarra, it was not representatives of the administrations territorial scale relating to a museum finished, and the building was never involved. The design included a new, dedicated to human towers. Once to house the human tower museum. 3,000 square metre building situated again, Pere Català Roca was the one in an area of more than 10,000 square who pushed to give the topic greater The first half of the 1990s was marked metres, connected to the city by several visibility, initially in the 1977 Con- by talks between the town council and walkways. The siting of the Museum gress of Catalan Culture, and then the Catalan Government, relating to in that location was conditioned by more strongly in the First Congress the project’s funding. In September factors including the ownership of the of Traditional and Popular Culture 1997, the work was invigorated, land –initially it was announced that in 1982, for which he was part of the with Josep Mañà and the Museu de a native of Valls had gifted it altruisti- advisory committee. In the conclu- Valls drafting the museum project, in cally, but later it was specified that it sions to the casteller section of the con- order to resume the adaptation of Ca must be bought. Likewise, the casteller gress, in the seventh point, the need is Segarra. At that time, the end of the museum was listed as part of the Resi- expressly conveyed: to promote the work and the opening of the museum dential Strategic Area (Àrea Estratègica creation of a human tower museum was planned for 2003. Residencial; ARE) of Ruanes. But the 326 RESEARCH Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya December 2017 Núm. 42 new destination of the museum was Carrer Espardenyers, near Plaça del the company of museographer and included in the demands of citizen pro- Blat. An agreement with the Institut set designer Ignasi Cristià, with Lavinia test movements, including the Valls Català del Sòl allowed the land to be Spurna Visual being responsible for the Viu platform, created in June 2008 obtained, with 29 buildings in ruins or audiovisual production. and which, in its founding manifesto, extremely poor condition being rede- moved, among other things, to elimi- veloped, integrating a space that had, This new building modifies the urban nate the ARE and transfer the museum initially, been reserved for the construc- layout surrounding it by creating a to the old quarter of the town. tion of social housing. space that joins Carrer Espardeny- ers with Plaça del Blat, fashioning a Finally, in March 2013, Albert Batet, On March 27, 2015, on the site where square crowned by a large upright Mayor of Valls, announced that the the museum was to be built, festivities cylinder that cuts through the build- Ruanes site had been completely aban- surrounded the start of the work, with ing and allows one to contemplate doned, the ARE withdrawn, and that the some thirty casteller groups taking the sky. Within this emptiness rises the old quarter would house the Museu part, the act witnessed by everyone in a great quadrangular prism. This is a Casteller de Catalunya. This change the human tower world. new vociferation for the verticality of necessitated a redrawing of the plans. castells, and through integrated lighting Dani Freixes was kept on as archi- Ultimately, on January 8, 2016, the it highlights all the bright colours of tect but a more modest building was winner of the ideas competition for the various groups. At the same time, designed, to be located in the area of the museography was announced: the structure adds to and modifies the Valls skyline, establishing a dialogue with the bell tower of the church of Sant Joan, the tallest in Catalonia.

The interior of the museum, as well as housing the reception, shop, and café, is also home to the CEDOCA (Cen- tre de Documentació Castellera). This publicly owned organisation brings together the largest documentary col- lection (graphic, photographic, audio- visual, etc.) on the world of human towers. The qualitative leap implied by CEDOCA’s change of location, will no doubt be reflected in its users and the Rendered view of the inside of the Museu Casteller (2016). research they carry out. IGNASI CRISTIÀ – MUSEU CASTELLER DE CATALUNYA The permanent exhibition will, how- ever, constitute the bulk of the museum’s appeal. With 2,000 square meters and organised according to the casteller motto, strength, balance, value, and sanity (extracted from the work Los Xiquets de Valls by the composer Josep Anselm Clavé), the exhibition is based on audiovisual resources that convey information. Six major audiovisuals and two interactive displays comprise the main attraction, complemented by sensory experiences and participatory immersion that transport visitors closer Rendered view of the inside of the Museu Casteller (2016). to the values, sensations and experiences IGNASI CRISTIÀ – MUSEU CASTELLER DE CATALUNYA of the human tower builders. Some of Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 327 the exhibits also make up part of the ity’s current assets: castells and the mild and there was much debate between discourse: there are displays of related calçot onions. They also consider the supporters of the omnipresence of objects, including some of the pieces poor public transport network and patrimony and those who restrict from the CEDOCA art collection, the insufficient and decentralised restora- the meaning to everything that is not cups from the first castell competitions tion proposal. Geography also works material. In other words, the first group held in Tarragona in the 1930s, and against the museum, and, according claims that all heritage is intangible, historic instruments such as a 19th cen- to the report, the proximity of Valls since the value of objects – classified tury double-reeded gralla and a brass to centres that are very attractive to as material heritage – does not reside timbal drum made by the metal worker tourists, like Tarragona, Poblet, and in the pieces themselves but in their from Vendrell, Francesc Badia (1869- Montblanc, may not be favourable. meaning, i.e., an intangible quality. To 1957). But there are also much newer give an example, a flag like those hang- incorporations for the castellers, like the Nevertheless, the Management Plan ing on balconies around the region, helmets worn by members of the pom forecasts the need to sell some 130,000 would not be exhibited – apparently – de dalt, the three uppermost levels of annual tickets in order to make the pro- in a museum, archive, or gallery. the tower, that have been used since ject viable and sustainable (Quaderna, However, if this flag turns out to be the summer of 2006. Also on display 2014). This is a real challenge. As an the that enveloped the ballot is the certificate signed by the general example, in 2014 (the year in which the box containing the heart of President director of UNESCO, Irina Bokova, plan was drawn up) there were around Macià and which the Tarradellas family dated November 2010, whereby castells 130,000 visitors (not tickets sold) to: took custody of while in exile, every- were raised to the category of Intangible the archaeological site of Empúries, thing changes and it is justified that it Cultural Heritage of Humanity. which depends on the Archaeological be hung in pride of place, preferably Museum of Catalonia; the Museum in the Montserrat Tarradellas Archive, Beyond formal details such as museog- of Jewish History in Girona; and the located in the of Poblet. raphy or architecture, little has moved Gala Dalí Castle Púbol. Achieving on in other aspects, such as the man- those 130,000 tickets would make The truth is that this is not a new con- agement of the equipment. Although, the Museu Casteller the most visited cept, and not one invented by UNE- as previously mentioned, the project is museum in the province, ahead of the SCO. However, the recognition gives guided by three Catalan administrative National Archaeological Museum of official status to certain precepts that levels (national, provincial and local) Tarragona, which in 2014 received were embedded in other categories, as well as the Coordinadora de Colles 85,801 visitors, and the Diocesan such as folklore from the beginning Castelleres, once the inaugural tape Museum next to Tarragona Cathe- of the 19th century, or ethnological has been cut, it is not known who will dral, visited by 106,690 people in heritage, that was booming during ultimately take charge. In 2014, Valls 2016 (Department Of Culture, 2014 the 1980s. town council employed the consul- and 2016). It goes without saying that tancy from Manresa, Quaderna, to the archaeological ruins in Tarragona, At the UNESCO conference in Mex- draft a management and viability plan which are part of the Tarragona History ico in 1982, the supranational body for the Museu Casteller de Catalunya. Museum, are not taken into account cited the term intangible heritage for This public document carefully sets as these are not in the Government of the first time, consolidating it in sub- out the state of the question and con- Catalonia’s museum register. However, sequent meetings, such as that held in text within which the future museum these spaces in Tarragona were visited 1993. It was not until the new century, must be framed, from the perspectives by around 640,000 people in 2016. that it would receive its final boost. In of tourism, space, economics, and 2001, in Turin, experts from all over management. Although they propose Intangible heritage the world defined the term, as a pre- a management model and funding The importance of the technological liminary step to the Convention for the sources, they do not do so officially, as and audiovisual displays used by the Safeguarding of the Intangible Herit- it will be the political agents themselves Museu Casteller to construct its muse- age, held in Paris in October 2003. This who will have to do this. ographic discourse, is further evidence meeting, in addition to consolidating of the special nature of the heritage the concept, also served to create the The plans include a complicated exhibited there. first tools for safeguarding and protect- framework deriving from the relatively ing intangible heritage, such as the list minor tradition of tourism in Valls, and The official recognition of intangible of elements that require urgent protec- the high seasonality of the municipal- heritage was a long time in coming, tive measures and, in particular, the 328 RESEARCH Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya December 2017 Núm. 42

Representative List Of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Castells, heritage status processes In November 2010, castells were reg- istered on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, under UNESCO’s term “Human Towers”. This was the result of its candidacy in 2007 as a funda- mental pillar in the heritage status granting process and significance of this Catalan expression. It goes with- out saying that both the candidature and the entire heritage status granting process for castells deserve careful study, far removed from what follows, which The certificate recognising castells as UNESCO Intangible Heritage (2010). only includes brief notes. CDOCA – CCCC

The means by which something ends making it a “thing” that can be put on 2014, want to vote. Human up being granted heritage status is a display, sold, or exploited. towers for democracy, in which eight process of patrimonialisation. This European capitals were treated to the requires the creation of a scalar network In the case of castells, a popular tradition sight of human towers being built amid in which there is a multiplicity of actors geographically limited to the Camp banners and proclamations in favour with different intentions. It involves de Tarragona and Penedès areas, these of a referendum on the political future a reinterpretation of the past based have become the symbol of an entire of Catalonia to be held on November on contemporary problems, which region. This undoubtedly derives from 9 of that same year. can be characterised as a remodelling, the political significance of human reconstruction, or re-elaboration of tower building, both at the beginning Likewise, campaigns promoted by th the past, giving it a political-identity, of the 20 century and especially since the Catalan Government and other social-community, or economic-tour- the 1980s following the restoration of administrative bodies are based on the ist use (Roigé, 2014: 29). All assump- democracy in . The recognition, image of the world of human tower tions involve dangers, such as that of appropriation and projection given by building, to attract tourism, even pro- misrepresenting the meaning when the national administration to castells gramming ad hoc diades castelleres to the motives are political or related to has resulted in the multiplication of make their festivals more attractive identity, or the commodification of diades castelleres – the festival days cel- and increase visitor numbers. Noth- the heritage to meet the demands of ebrating human towers – as well as the ing new there, at least nothing that tourism. In this way, and in the case of founding of more groups around the had not been happening in cities like intangible heritage, we can see how the region and beyond, a key factor in the Vilafranca, Valls and Tarragona at the dances of indigenous peoples that were inclusion of castells in the Catalan idi- end of the 19th century and in the first only used in specific periods and with osyncrasy. It is reflected in the fact that half of the 20th, but in a very different clearly defined motives, are now sold the opening ceremony of the Barcelona context in terms of tourism. to the highest bidder and are danced Olympic Games included 92 casteller based on visits by tourists, who observe groups building their towers under the The castell-tourism relationship has them thinking they are authentic. whole world’s gaze, making it the best been strongly ratified with the new way to show the planet that “we are” century, the good standing of the A new step in this path of patrimoni- Catalans (or at least those who make groups and the many successes they alisation is the creation of a space that castells). And more recently we have have achieved help make the pastime captures the heritage such as a museum seen the political use of the pastime, yet more attractive to the public and or interpretation centre. For an intan- through events such as that organised popularise the act, which at the same gible asset, this requires materialisation, by Òmnium Cultural in the spring of time is encouraged as a governmental Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 329

gona, Ciutat de Castells (Tarragona the city of human towers) promoted in 2013 and that aims to immerse visitors in the “casteller universe”, involving: itineraries taking in the main squares where tower displays are held; guided visits to the home bases of the casteller groups; and periodic events during the castell season designed expressly for the foreign public.

A first step taken by the Coordinadora de Colles Castelleres in 2014, was the launch of the brand Castells – Colles Castelleres de Catalunya, together with its English version Castells – Catalan Human Towers, which were both registered in the Spanish Office of Patents and Trademarks. This act was supported by the Catalan Government and private companies, a symbol of the advertising potential of castells, as well as the possibilities for the business sec- tor. According to the creators, the goal was to protect the image of castells, give the phenomenon projection, and take advantage of funding opportunities. For this reason, a proprietary line of merchandise was launched, and a tour- ist package was put together, including Castellers in the independence demonstration on La Diada – Catalonia’s national day things like attending a group practice. (2014). DANI CODINA In this way, for less than 25 euros, one can watch and join in with one of the practices of the Castellers de Sants, or strategy. However, the legitimacy of Humanity. The road started down in Castellers de Barcelona, for example. this process also involves obtaining 2007 translates into this need to have certain distinctions that differentiate an official seal from some prestigious The link between heritage and tourism one’s practices from others. In Cata- acronym like UNESCO that legiti- implies entry into the market. At this lonia, diades castelleres in some of the mises the heritage status of castells. point, changes in our concept of suc- region’s festivities are key in the cata- cess, or not, can come about, such as loguing of the pastime as a Heritage 2010, the year in which this supposed assessing visitor number instead of the Festival of National Interest. These quality certificate was obtained, was quality of the activity. And ultimately, include the main festivals of L’Arboç also a milestone from which the exploi- the offer will be based on the demand and Vilafranca del Penedès, the Festes tation and commodification of human (Prats, 2006), a fact that explains the Decennals de la Mare de Déu de la towers expanded. actions described above, but which Candela de Valls, and the Santa Tecla also justifies the creation of the Museu festival in Tarragona, among others. In this way, and with the desire to Casteller de Catalunya. The definitive extend the experience beyond the boost to a project that had never had But the greatest recognition to which intangible, we find the justification enough momentum to finally be real- intangible manifestations can aspire for products and packages aimed at ised is, symptomatic of the time these is the aforementioned UNESCO List visitors. These include practices open human towers find themselves in, its of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of to tourists, and initiatives like Tarra- link to national identity, its attraction 330 RESEARCH Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya December 2017 Núm. 42 for tourists, and its emblematic status headlines that give us news relating to Cardó library and a community cen- as intangible heritage of humanity. It human towers, from the heirs of the tre. It also involved the restoration of clinches the deal with the opening of a casteller journalists, initiators of a genre heritage elements, like the old Convent permanent base where it can watch over at the beginning of the last century. del Carme, which houses a school and and in some way fossilise the tradition, holds public events, the wall of San objectify it, and all under the academic Likewise, doctoral theses on castells Francisco, where they seek to expropri- aura linked to the word museum. The and castellers prove how the subject has ate and demolish some urban blocks challenge that this type of proposal has entered the highest educational circles, to free up space and recover the medi- to face is to not trivialise the intangible particularly within Rovira i Virgili Uni- aeval wall, and the anti-aircraft shelter heritage, but make it accessible without versity. Since February 2017, this cen- in Plaça del Blat, which in 2011 was decreasing its importance or empty- tre, together with the Colla Vella dels incorporated into the Memory Spaces ing it of meaning (Grötsch, 2005). In Xiquets de Valls, has been promoting of the Democratic Memorial. Spain, other elements found on the the URV chair for the study of human Representative List of the Intangible towers, as a tool for interdisciplinary The site of the casteller museum, up Cultural Heritage of Humanity also reflection, debate, and dissemination until 2013, was intended to accom- have monographic museums, such as of the culture and evolution of castells modate social housing, involving the Festes de la Mare de Déu de la Salut based on historical research excellence. around sixty homes as well as com- d’Algemesí and the Museu Valencià mercial premises. As mentioned earlier, de la Festa; flamenco dancing and the Museums and urban the regulatory difficulties of Ruanes Museo del Flamenco de Sevilla; and regeneration (the previously planned location), the Fiesta de los Patios de Còrdova Nevertheless, the construction of the the need to resize, and the demands with its interpretation centre of the Museu Casteller de Catalunya incor- of locals who favoured the transfer of same name. In Catalonia, the other porates other interesting aspects that the museum to the historic centre, great masterpiece of intangible heritage can be analysed, including its location. triggered this current situation. And is the Patum de (included in the it is justified by the fact that the hous- list since 2005). Although recognition Siting it in Valls is an obvious attempt ing blocks prevented the neighbour- may appear to come at the hands of an to respond to the symbolism of the city hood “breathing” (Quaderna, 2014). interpretation centre or museum, in as the home of castells and the cradle of It does, however, involve dispensing this latter case the project on paper has the casteller world, as happened with with urban unity and the current street never become reality and the festival’s the Coordinadora de Colles Castel- layout, to drop in a modern white museum offering is limited to the Casa leres, which is also based in Valls. But construction with large windows that de la Patum, a small dwelling where a the fact the old quarter was chosen differs greatly from the neighbouring few pieces are displayed, accompanied to house the museum reveals further buildings. Just as has already happened by image and sound. intentions. with the nearby Espai Ca Creus. It is exactly this that causes a loss of herit- The academic aspect is also vitally The old quarter is the least populated age, if one believes the postulates of pat- important to success. For castells, this area of the town, the most run down, rimony theorists who think of a town is not a problem: here the link between and which has the highest percentage as a unique monument that includes culture and heritage is well known of immigrants. Therefore, the action topography, landscape, urban plan- thanks to folklore studies by people forms part of the urban regeneration ning, and architecture. (Choay, 2007: including Joan Amades and Francesc project for the old quarter of Valls. In 125-126). Blasi Vallespinosa. Scholars, literati, 2006, Valls council presented a com- folklorists, and historians, among oth- prehensive intervention project for this The planning is neither new nor inno- ers, have all taken castells and castellers part of the town, and the same year vative, many other cities around the as their object of study, evidenced by sanctioned an amount of 15 million world have used culture to reverse the the extensive literature on the subject euros from the Catalan Government’s decadent tendency of urban spaces. that exists right through from the 19th Neighbourhood Plan Law. The Plan Often, projects of this type are framed to the 21st century. provided for the allocation of grants within the context of economic crises for housing rehabilitation, a list of that force communities to redefine These days, there are monographic commercial properties, and the con- their activities, and many of them publications, specialised media, and struction of new facilities, such as the turn in the direction of the services even sections within the main national Espai Ca Creus including the Carles sector. In general, the teams that direct Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 331

Carrer Espardenyers in the old quarter of Valls and the human tower museum in the background (May 2017). ALEX REBOLLO and plan these reforms are composed the creation of the Institut Valencià heritage to turn the city centre around. exclusively of architects, however, as of d’Art Modern (1989), Madrid and the Along with the remodelling of streets, the 1980s, the figure of the economist Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (1992), and new projects are being launched, such has also been involved. The aim is to Bilbao and the Guggenheim (1997). as the creation of a new building for squeeze as much economic profitabil- Others have focused not only on art, the Jaume Morera art museum and a ity out of whatever had to be remod- but include other infrastructure such as desire to make the Turó de la Seu Vella elled, and this leads to incorporating the Raval of Barcelona, especially in the a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This services that are attractive to tourists surroundings of Plaça dels Àngels, with process parallels well with Valls, since and passers-by who will part with their the creation of the Centre de Cultura both towns want to undertake urban hard-earned cash in the area. So we Contemporània de Barcelona (1994), regeneration based around an interna- find, among other things, seafronts and the Museu d’Art Contemporani de tionally recognised heritage element. beaches opened up, shopping centres, Barcelona (1995), the University of museums, and galleries. These last are, Barcelona’s Geography and History Technically, this type of process is above all, focused on contemporary Faculties (2006), and the Commu- known as gentrification: “the socioeco- art to make it easy to create a collec- nication and International Relations nomic transformation of a degraded tion ex novo. Later, sociologists and Departments of Blanquerna – Ramon urban area inhabited by lower-class or human geographers will add their Llull University (2010). The same is marginal social groups characterised by two pennyworth so that the processes true of other spaces such as Carrer the urban and architectural rehabilita- does not focus solely on tourism. (Lor- Robadors with the Filmoteca and the tion of the area and by the progressive ente, 1997: 11-13). These approaches connected Rambla del Raval. arrival of middle-class or upper-class include examples like that of Paris and social groups. This leads to a change the Pompidou Centre (1977), and Liv- More recently, cities like Girona have in the economic activities and, some- erpool and the Tate (1988). Closer to also experienced this widespread times, the displacement of the most home, places that opted to use modern growth in tourism. Back in Catalo- vulnerable social groups.” (TER- art for regeneration were Valencia with nia, Lleida has tried to use culture and MCAT) As a general rule, business 332 RESEARCH Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya December 2017 Núm. 42

Immediate surroundings of the Museu Casteller in the old quarter of Valls (May 2017). ALEX REBOLLO reforms entail increased land prices by involves risks, such as denaturing or bring this journey to an end, in truth opening the door to real estate specula- even banalising the zone by generating it will be the beginning of an even tion that forces the original inhabitants a “theme park”, or making it classical more important road, that of bringing to leave, since they can no longer afford and elitist, a place where it is no longer life, day-to-day, to this new facility. A to live in the area, and these sites are possible to live. (Garcia; Beltran, 2011: unique museum in Catalonia, dedi- replaced with homes for higher income 140-142). cated exclusively to the manifestation families or tourist accommodation. of intangible heritage and charged with Meanwhile, the area’s improved image Of course, each case is found within the region’s cultural symbolism. And and increased safety favour a rise in a different context, since all cities are there many huge challenges still to face, private investment, although this is different and, therefore, many other like capturing the audience necessary principally in the tourist sector, mean- factors influence the outcome of these to enable its survival, and the need to ing small shops succumb to establish- actions. But there does seem to be a cer- keep up with the life and activity of the ments such as bars, restaurants, fash- tain trend towards these effects. Valls, human tower building world. ion boutiques, and souvenir shops. In therefore, is an example that cannot yet some cases, this comes in the form of be evaluated as it is still only in an inter- A showcase displaying the result of the franchises or large commercial brands. mediate phase. A stage where there is process of integrating enxanetes1, folres2 In any case, these are hardly compatible still action to be undertaken, and to and manilles3 into the idiosyncrasies of with the daily life of a neighbourhood which we should remain attentive. the Catalan people, but whose origins and the need for food, leisure, footwear, we should also be aware of. Although, and affordable clothing. Conclusions heritage-wise, we can have no further We are facing, therefore, the culmina- aspirations, having obtained the high- However, gentrification can improve tion of a journey that has been under- est recognition of intangible cultural the situation of an area by enhancing its way for more than half a century. heritage of humanity, the challenge aesthetics, level of safety, and relevance Although the opening of the Museu is how this is managed and what lim- within the city as a whole. This also Casteller de Catalunya in Valls will its are impose to preserve it. To what Hold up your hand, the Catalan Human Tower Museum in Valls and the heritage process of the castellers RESEARCH 333 extent is it possible to sell the image strategy are only sporadically popu- the citizens of Valls. A possible path for of castells for commercial purposes? lated, by people who walk the streets further research. Or what are the boundaries so prac- and squares for only few hours, passing tices and diades do not become void through, rootless and without time to For all that, however, we will have to of meaning? create experiences there. It is therefore wait. To wait for the human tower extremely important to make those museum to open to visitors, as well as It is true that the casteller is healthy and inhabitants closest the new cultural local residents. To wait and see what has excitement in his DNA. As true centres, feel the need for them. Inte- effect it has on the town, in particular as the fact that emotional intangible grate them in the project right from the old quarter. And also the evolution heritage is very difficult to obliterate. the start and keep them constantly up of the heritage status granting process But that does not mean it is exempt to date. After all, it is they who will of the castells and how they are used in of risk. suffer the consequences of the build- the fields of economics, tourism, and ing work, and they who will have to politics. Just as there are dangers inherent in deal with the possible crowds after the the processes linking urban regenera- inauguration, and, indeed, it is their The political aspect acting as the soul tion and culture. Gentrification, in the taxes that will pay for it. It is imperative, of the human towers. Not for nothing majority of cases, ends up becoming therefore, to give the citizens a sense of did Pau Casals say that castells: “are the a double-edged sword, introducing belonging to the new museum, and living symbol of the Catalan people’s some conflicts while resolving others. It not in vain, because if this is achieved, firm virtues.” n will be interesting to see, in the coming they will become the best advertising, months and years, how the old quarter guides, and attractive force that it will NOTES of Valls assimilates the actions that have have. From a personal perspective, 1 been and are being carried out, and Valls does not appear to be doing this The casteller who crowns the human tower. then evaluate their success or failure. very diligently, and this attitude may 2 What is certain is that a neighbour- lead to disaffection and indifference. It The reinforcement for the second level of a hood needs residents to revive it, and goes without saying, however, that it human tower. museums bring not inhabitants but would be interesting to do a detailed 3 visitors. This may be the reason many study of the impressions, desires and The reinforcement for the third level of a human of the cities that have opted for this regrets the Museu Casteller stirs up in tower.

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