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Home , Aonach Eagach, Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, Balranald Nature Reserve, Barra Head Lighthouse, Beinn Eighe, Ben Lawers

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 206 248 374 Arrochar 48-9 Ben More Nature art galleries Reserve 250 Arran Art Gallery 64 14, 169, 14 Bonhoga Gallery 309 223 Arts Studio 77 212 271 211 galleries 255 239-40 Wheeling Steen Gallery 295 Bharpa Langass 211 Assynt 247-50 bicycle travel, see cycling ATMs 362 Bigton 313 aurora borealis 321 birdwatching 15, 32, 312, 15 A Aviemore 127-30, 127 Balranald 211

Aberfeldy 115-18 Castle O’Burrian 295 Bird Observatory 321 Aberfoyle 49-50 B 311 abseiling 61 Badbea 232 Harris 209 accommodation 356-8, see also bagpipes 340 individual locations Isle of 98 Balfour Castle 289 Achiltibuie 250-1 Isle of 81 Ballater 138-9 Achnacarry 170 96 Balloch 44 activities 20, 28-36, see also Loch of Funzie 320 Balmaha 44 individual activities Island 269 Balmoral Castle 139 air travel 365, 367 RSPB Osprey Balquhidder 52-3 Alford 137 Centre 132 170 Alladale Wilderness Lodge & Islands 312, 317 Reserve 227 Barnhouse Village 275 314 Alness 225 213-15 Birnam 122-3 Alyth 144 Barrie, JM 141-2, 208 275-6 257 battlefields Black Isle 219-22 Angus Glens 141-4 Battle of Glenshiel 163 blackhouses 202 animals 127, 343-7, see also Battle of 126 Arnol Blackhouse 206 birdwatching, individual species, Culloden Battlefield 156 Gearrannan Blackhouse Village 206 wildlife cruises, wildlife watching Pass of Brander 78 Howmore 213 171 beaches 17, 22, 17 Blackwaterfoot 64 Appin 79-80 248 Blair Atholl 126-7 Appin murder 81 Calgary 94 Blair Castle 126-7 Applecross 261-2 Camusdarach Beach 177 Blairgowrie 144-5 aquariums Harris 17, 209, 17 132 Aquarium 44-5 58 boat travel 48, 366, 367 Orkney Marine Life Aquarium 284 Isle of 99 boat trips Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary 80 Isle of 88 Black Isle 219 archaeology Laig Beach 197-8 Seacoast 235 308 Red Point 258 Eas a’Chuil Aluinn waterfall 245 Orkney Island tours 269 Reef Beach 207 Elgol 188 Westness Walk 290 St Catherine’s Bay 292 149 Heritage Centre 295 Scousburgh Sands 313 Isle of Iona 98-9 Arctic Penguin 68 Bealach na Ba 261 Isle of Islay 81 174-5 Bealach Ratagain 164 Isle of Mull 90, 96 174-5 Beatrix Potter Park 122 Isle of 78 area codes 362-3 Beauly 158 187, 190 177-8 beavers 70, 344 Lewis 207 244, 245, 336 Mountain Trail 260 Loch Etive 79 Armadale 187-8 Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve Loch Lomond 45 Arnisdale 164 263-4 Loch Ness 149, 161, 162 78 176 Ben Challum 53 118 178 000 Map pages Ben 53, 54, 119 312 000 Photo pages 102-3, 102 Ben More 95 67

27-index-shi2.indd 374 374 7/10/2011 1:16:34 PM 308 Quoyness chambered tomb 293-4 Breachachadh Castle 99 Scapa Flow 269 Reilig Oran 98 Brochel Castle 195 375 St Kilda 214 Burns, Robert 56 Brodick Castle 61, 105 Summer Isles 253, 255 Burns Night 23, 339 Brodie Castle 158 , the 52 283-4 Castle Coeffin 80 Boddam 313 bus travel 48, 51, 365, 367 Castle Menzies 115 Bonar Bridge 227 business hours 358 Castle of Mey 236 Bonnie Prince Charlie 133, 156, 165, bushwalking, see walking Castle Stalker 80 INDEX INDEX 177, 193, 213, 331-2 Butt of Lewis 205 Castle Sween 69 books 324 175 Bowmore 83-4 Cawdor Castle 157-8 315 C B-C , the 17, 127-34, 17 Corgarff Castle 137-8 Braemar 139-41 127 Craigievar Castle 137 Braemar Gathering 24, 141 cairns Crathes Castle 138 Braemore 257 Appin murder 81 92 Brahan Seer 224 Auchagallon 64 Dunollie Castle 71 breweries 351-2 Blackhammer Cairn 290 Dunrobin Castle 229-30 Black Isle Brewery 219 Cairn o’Get 234 Dunstaffnage Castle 79 Colonsay Brewery 89 293 Duntulm Castle 194-5 Islay Ales 84 Grey Cairns of Camster 234 Dunvegan Castle 193 Brewery 61 Edzell Castle 143 319 Holm of Papay 297 Eilean Donan Castle 9, 163, 9 bridges Kilmartin Glen 70 Inveraray Castle 68 Bridge of Balgie 119 Knowe of Yarso 290-1 Inverness Castle 149 Bridge over the Atlantic 77 Midhowe Tomb 290 Kilchurn Castle 79 Kylesku Bridge 245 Ord Hut Circles & Chambered Cairns 228 Kildrummy Castle 137 Broadford 186-7 Prince’s Cairn 177 brochs 327 Kinloch Castle 196 Taversoe Tuick 290 of Culswick 310 Kisimul Castle 213-14 Torrylinn Cairn 64 Broch of Deerness 283 Lews Castle 202 Caithness 232-9 276 Lochranza Castle 63 Caledonian Canal 161, 170-1 Burroughston Broch 289 174 Caledonian pine forests 119, 127-8 Caithness Broch Centre 236 Noltland Castle 295 Callander 50-2 Clickimin Broch 303 Old Wick Castle 234 Callanish 206-7 Doune Broch Centre 206 Castle 58 Callanish Standing Stones 12, 206 308 206-7, 12 164 Skipness Castle 66 Campbeltown 67-83 164 Tarbert Castle 66 Camusdarach Beach 177 Fort George 156-7 Urquhart Castle 161 canals 290 Yesnaby Castle 274 Caledonian Canal 161, 170-1 Mousa Broch 312 cathedrals, see also churches & Crinan Canal 69 Old 314 chapels Cannich 158-9 Tirefour Broch 80 Dornoch Cathedral 228 canoeing 33-4, see also sea kayaking Brodick 61-3 Cathedral 122 Loch Sionascaig 252 Brodick Castle 61, 105 Fortrose Cathedral 219 Plockton 262 Brodie Castle 158 277 Cape Wrath 243-4 Brora 231 caves 22 car travel 19, 365, 368, 369, see also Brown, George Mackay 271, 338 Bone Caves 248 scenic drives Buachaille Etive Mor 171 Davaar Cave 67 car-ferry travel 366, 367 budget 18 Fingal’s Cave 22, 97, 21 Carloway 206 96 King’s Cave 64 Carrbridge 132 burial grounds Kirstan’s Hole 311 96 Bullough Mausoleum 196 Mackinnon’s Cave 95 Castlebay 213-15 Clan MacNab burial ground 53 Smoo Cave 242 castles 9, 22 Giant’s Graves 64 Spar Cave 188 Balfour Castle 289 Lyness Naval Cemetery 286 Traligill Caves 248 Balmoral Castle 139 Maes Howe 274 Cawdor 157-8 Blair Castle 126-7 Midhowe Tomb 290 ceilidhs 11, 339, 11 Braemar Castle 140 cell phones 19, 362-3 240-1 Loch Lomond 45 376 cemeteries, see burial grounds Connel 79 Lochs & Glens Cycle Way 49, 53 Central Highlands 114-147, 116-17 consulates 360, 361 West Loch Lomond Cycle Path 45 accommodation 114 170-1 climate 114 Corrie 63 D food 114 257 Dalwhinnie 134 highlights 116 Corrour Station 121-2 dangers, see safety travel seasons 114 Corryvreckan 86 Deeside 138-41 INDEX INDEX children, travel with 350, 358 Coruisk 189 Diabaig 260 churches & chapels, see also courses 351 224 cathedrals Cowal Highland Gathering 56 disabilities, travellers with 363 C-D Italian Chapel 283 Cowal peninsula 54-7, 55 distilleries 353, see also whisky Keills Chapel 69 Craigellachie Nature Reserve 128 Arberiour Distillery 136 Kilchatton Church 78 Craigievar Castle 137 Bell’s 123 Kildalton Chapel 83 91-2 166 St Boniface’s Church 296 Crathes Castle 138 83 St Brendan’s Chapel 66 credit cards 362 84 St Clement’s Church 209 Crianlarich 47-8 231 St ’s Church 203 Crinan Canal 69 225 St Conan’s Kirk 78 335-6 134 St Nicholas’ Church 276-7 Badbea 232-3 Dewar’s World of Whisky 115 Trumpan Church 193-4 Old Shoremore 244 Dufftown 136 Churchill Barriers 282 Rosal Township 241 123 Clearances 227, 290, 332-3 Sandness 310 136 climate 18, see also individual crofting museums regions Distillery 7, 136, 7 Island Life Museum 101 climate change 366 225 Kildonan Museum 212 climbing 34 279 Laidhay Museum 233 An Teallach 257 Isle of 63 Shetland Crofthouse Museum 313 Ben Bhraggie 230 85 Skye Museum of Island Life 195 Macallan Distillery 136 Ben Lomond 102-3, 103 Cromarty 219 71 Ben More 92 Cromarty 224-5 Old Pulteney Distillery 235 Ben Nevis 14, 169, 14 Hills 8, 188-9, 8 Port Askaig 85 52 Cullipool 78 Port Ellen 83 Ben Wyvis 223 Culloden Battlefield 156 Speyside Cooperage 136 Cairngorm Mountain 130 cultural centres 67 Cobbler 48 An Lanntair Art Centre 202 189-90 Cuillin Hills 185 Breadalbane Folklore Centre 53 whisky trail 31, 134, 136, 135 Five Sisters of Kintai 163 Hoswick Visitor Centre 312 diving 35-6 244-5 Orkney Folklore & Storytelling 315 179 Visitor Centre 275 Oban 72-3 Lost Valley 171-2 Taigh Chearsabhagh 211 Scapa Flow 283 Meallfuarvonie 159 Tain Through Time 225 dog sledding 128 Paps of Jura 87 cultural museums Dornoch 228-9 249 Glencoe Folk Museum 172 Dounreay 239 260 Tangwick Haa Museum 316 drinks, see whisky, wine Clo Mor 243 culture 337-42 driving, see car travel Cluanie Inn 163 curling 342 driving licences 368 Clyde and Loch Lomond Cycle currency 18 Drumnadrochit 160-1 Way 45 customs regulations 358-9 Drymen 110 Cobbler 48 cycling 31-2, 367, see also mountain

Coigach 250-7 biking Dufftown 134-5

Coire Lagan 188 Ballater 138-9 Duirinish 193-4

Coire Mhic Fhearchair 261 Clyde and Loch Lomond Cycle Dun Carloway 206 Way 45 Dun Telve 164 Étape 124 Dun Troddan 164 Dunbeath 233 000 Map pages Isle of Arran 60 Duncansby Stacks 236 000 Photo pages Isle of Bute 58 Dundonnell 257

27-index-shi2.indd 376 376 7/10/2011 1:16:43 PM Dunkeld 122-3 Braveheart 165 geological museums Head 236 Harry Potter 165, 166, 176, 332 Orcadian Stone Company 230 377 Dunoon 55-6 Local Hero 177 Treasures of the Earth 170 Dunrobin Castle 229-30 Monty Python and the Holy geological sites Dunvegan 193 Grail 80 246, 248 242-3 Rob Roy 165 Crag 251 286 Fingal’s cave 22, 97, 21 Kylesku 245 85 geology 246, 343 97 INDEX E 158-9 fishing 33 Eas a’Chuil Aluinn 245 Glen Clova 142-3 Helmsdale 232 10, 171-4, 10 77 D-H Eday 292-3 Isle of Iona 98 Glen Etive 172

Edzell 143-5 Lamlash 65 Glen Feshie 131-2

Egilsay 291 Loch Drumbeg 248 Glen Isla 142 Eilean Ban 186 Loch Insh, Kincraig 131 Glen Lethnot 143 Loch Sionascaig 252 Eilean Donan Castle 9, 163, 9 Glen Lochay 53, 119 Lochs of Asta & Tingwall 309 electricity 360 119-20

Elgol 188 River & Loch Brora 231 165, 169-70

Ellanbeich 77 Rothiemurchus Fishery 128 Glen Prosen 142 embassies 360, 361 Scalloway 308 171 emergencies 19 Scourie 245-7 163-4 environmental issues 324-5, 347 315 Glen Spean 171 213 Wick Heritage Centre 234 Glenbrittle 188 Evanton 224-5 288 Glencoe Massacre 173 events, see festivals & events 240 Glencoe Village 172-4 Evie 276 food 8, 348-53, 360, 8 Glenelg 164 exchange rates 19 courses 351 Glenesk 143 festivals 24, 66, 91 Glenfender 126 haggis 349 176 F smoked produce 252, 351 Glenfinnan Viaduct 166, 332 Fair Isle 320-1 vegan & vegetarian 350 Glenshee 144-5 Fairy Flag 194 forests 345 Goatfell 103-5, 104 Fairy Glen 195 Forest 69 gold prospecting 233 Falls of Shin 228 Landmark Forest Heritage Park 132 golf 32, 342 ferries 6, 48, 366, 367, 6 Leanachan Forest 170 Askernish Golf Course 213 festivals & events, see also Highland Rothiemurchus Estate 128 Brora Golf Club 231 Games, music festivals 120 Strathpeffer Spa Golf Club 222 Arran Folk Festival 62 Golspie 229-31 Arran Wildlife Festival 62 Fort Augustus 161-3 287-8 Burns Night 23, 339 Fort George 156-7 Grantown-on-Spey 132 Cowalfest 56 Fort William 113, 165-8, 166 207 Enchanted Forest 24, 124 fortified sites, see brochs Great Glen 148-74, 150-1 Fèis Ìle 23, 82 Fortingall 119 accommodation 148 Festival of the Horse 284 Fortrose 219-22 climate 148 Fort William Mountain Festival 23 Foula 311-12 food 148 Johnsmas Foy 303 highlights 150-1 Mull & Iona Food Festival 24, 91 G travel seasons 148 Orkney Folk Festival 271 Gairloch 258-9 Great Glen Way 159 Shetland Nature Festival 317 Gairlochy 170 Gulf of Corryvreckan 86 Spirit of Speyside 23, 136 gardens, see parks & gardens 24, 279 206 Tarbert Seafood Festival 66 gay travellers 360 H 23, 303 geneaology haggis 349 320 An Iodhlann 101 Handa Island 247 film 324 Historical Centre 96-7 Harris 17, 207-11, 200, 17 film & TV locations Seallam! Visitor Centre 209 Harris Tweed 203, 208 2001: A Space Odyssey 209 Ullapool Museum 255 health 360 Balamory 92 geography 343 health resorts 222

27-index-shi2.indd 377 377 7/10/2011 1:16:43 PM Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust 32 Ruthven Barracks 133 Isle of 77 378 Helensburgh 48 Skaill House 273-4 Isle of Lismore 80-1 Helmsdale 232 Viking stofa 311 Isle of 78 heritage centres Watermill 115 Isle of Muck 198 Barra Heritage Centre 214 Woollen Mill 297 Isle of Mull 90-7, 90 Braemar Highland Heritage Centre historic sites 307-8 140 Betty Corrigall’s Grave 287 Isle of 195 Bressay Heritage Centre 308 Bonawe Iron Furnace 79 Isle of Rum 196-7 INDEX INDEX Brora Heritage Centre 231 Dunadd 70 Isle of Seil 77-8 Caledonian Canal Heritage Kilmartin Churchyard 70 Isle of Skye 182-95, 183 Centre 161 old military road 163

activities 184-5 H-L Iona Heritage Centre 98 Strathnaver Trail 241 climate 182 Mallaig Heritage Centre 178 history 326-36, see also crofting, highlights 183 Old Byre Heritage Centre 94 tours 185 Scottish Heritage 227, 290 transport 185-6 Trust 77 332-3

Unst Heritage Centre 319 Isle of Iona 98 Isle of 100-2, 100

Westray Heritage Centre 295 Jacobite rebellions 331-2 Isle of 95-6

Wick Heritage Centre 234 328 itineraries 25-7 Highland Clearances 227, 290, 332-3 Romans 328 Highland dancing 340, 3 hitching 369 J Highland Games 340-1 Holes of Scraada 316 Jacobite rebellions 331-2 Argyllshire Gathering 24, 73 holidays 362 313-14 Braemar Gathering 24, 141 Holy Island 65 jewellery 123, 309 Cowal Highland Gathering 56 horse riding 34-5 John O’Groats 235-6 Mull Highland Games 91 Gairloch 259 Isle of Bute 58 Nairn Highland Games 157 K Kintyre 66 Isle of Skye Highland Games 190 kayaking, see sea kayaking 285-7 Highland museums Kenmore 118 hydroelectric schemes 78, 324, 335 Heritage Centre & Kergord House 309 Museum 233 Hynish 101 174 Clansman Centre 161 Kildonan 64 258 I Kildrummy Castle 137 133 ice-climbing 174 Killiecrankie 126 Highland Museum of Childhood 222 95 53-4 Strathnaver Museum 239-40 Inchnadamph 246, 248 Kilmartin Glen 70-1 West Highland Museum 165 insurance 360 Kincraig 131-2 Highland Wildlife Park 131 internet resources 19, 360-1 Kingussie 133-4 Highlands, see Central Highlands, Inveraray 68-9 Kinloch Rannoch 120 , Southern Inverarnan 111 Highlands & Islands 244-5 Inverey 141 hiking, see walking 260 179 Hill House 48 113, 174 Inverness 149-56 historic buildings 163-4 Iona Abbey 98 Arnol Blackhouse 206 Kintyre 65 Iron Age house 207 Barony Mills 276 277-81, 278 islands 21 Böd of Gremista 303 Kirriemuir 141-2 Isle Maree 259-60 Carrick House 293 Kishorn 261 Isle Martin 252 Earl’s Bu 276 296-7 Isle of Arran 60-5, 60 Fort Charlotte 303 Knapdale 69-70 Isle of Bressay 307-8 Gearrannan Blackhouse Village 206 peninsula 179-80 Isle of Bute 57-60, 55 Kyle of Lochalsh 165 Hagdale Horse Mill 319 Isle of Canna 198-9 242 172 Isle of Coll 99-100, 100 Kyleakin 186 Knap of Howar 296-7 Isle of Colonsay 88-90, 82 Kylesku 245 McCaig’s Tower 71 Isle of 197-8 Isle of 66-7 Isle of Iona 13, 97-9, 13 L 000 Map pages Isle of Islay 81-5, 82 Lagg 64 000 Photo pages Isle of Jura 86-8, 82 Lairg 227-8

27-index-shi2.indd 378 378 7/10/2011 1:16:43 PM Lake of Menteith 49 Machrie Moor Stone Circle 64 South Cluanie Ridge 163 Lamb Holm 283 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 48 Torridon Munros 260 379 Lamlash 65 Maes Howe 274 museums 20, see also crofting Landmark Forest Heritage Park 132 Maid of the Loch 45 museums, cultural museums, landscape 343-7 Maids of Bute 59 geological museums, Highland museums, maritime museums, Mallaig 178-80 languages 18, 74, 338 military museums maps 361 309 Blackhouse Museum 206 maritime museums Lecht Ski Resort 138 Bute Museum 58 Inveraray Maritime Museum 68 INDEX legal matters 361 Caithness Horizons 237 Longhope Lifeboat Museum 286 Lennon, John 242 Clan Cameron Museum 170 302-8, 304 Museum 271

Cromarty Courthouse 219 L-N Boat Haven 319 lesbian travellers 360 Easdale Island Folk Museum 77 Maxwell, Gavin 164, 186 Leverburgh 210 Grampian Transport Museum 137 Mealista 207 Leverhulme, Lord 210 Hamilton Toy Collection 50 measures 359 Lewis 201-7, 200 Hugh Miller’s Cottage & Museum media 325 Lewis chess pieces 207 219 medical services 360 Lews Castle 202 68 Melvich 239 Stevensons 294 Inverness Museum & Art Gallery 149 Miavaig 207 John Lennon’s Holiday Cottage 242 midges 19, 33 accommodation 307, 316 Kilmartin House Museum 70 military museums 174-5 Mull Museum 92-3 Hackness Martello Tower 286 Cape Wrath 243 Museum nan Eilean 202 Peerie Museum 288 318 Museum of Islay Life 84 Scapa Flow Visitor Centre 286 193 Museum of the Isles 187 War & Peace Museum 71 lighthouses 297 Nairn Museum 157 Miller, Hugh 219 Rua Reidh Lighthouse 258, 259 Orkney Fossil & Vintage Centre 283 Minginish 189-90 Lighthouse & Orkney Wireless Museum 279 215 Museum 101 Ross of Mull Historical Centre 96-7 mobile phones 19, 362-3 Stoer Head lighthouse 248 303 Moine Mhor Nature Reserve 70 literature 337-9, see also books Smiddy Museum 57 Moine Thrust 251 Loch Achray 52 Ullapool Museum 255 money 18-19, 359, 362 Loch Awe 78-9 music 91, 339-40 monuments Loch Coruisk 188 music festivals Duke of Monument 230 243 Fiddle & Accordion Festival 303 Fyrish Monument 225 Loch Etive 79 Glenelg Music Festival 164 Glenfinnan Monument 176 Loch Glencoul 245 Hebridean Celtic Festival 24, 204 Kitchener Memorial 275 Loch Hope 242 Islay Jazz Festival 82 Shetland Bus Memorial 308 52 177-8 Isle of Bute Jazz Festival 57 170-1 134-7 Mendelssohn on Mull 91 Loch Lomond 44-7 motorcycle travel 368 Mishnish Music Festival 91 259-60 Mount Stuart 57-8 Mull of Kintyre Music Festival 67 Loch Ness 159-62 mountain biking 30-1 Nairn International Jazz Festival 157 Loch Ness monster 160-1, 162 Cairngorms 128, 131 RockNess Music Festival 24, 159 120-1 Great Glen Mountain Bike Trail 159 Shetland Folk Festival 23, 303 Loch Tay 118-19 Highland Wildcat 230 Tarbert Music Festival 66 120-1 Kenmore 118 174-5, 150-1 Kyle of Sutherland Trails 227 Lochailort 175 N Laggan Wolftrax 133 Nairn 157 Lochcarron 262 Nevis Range downhill mountain­ national parks & nature reserves 248 bike trail 170 346-7 139 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 167 Alladale Wilderness Lodge & Lochranza 63-4 mountain climbing, see climbing Reserve 227 44 Mousa 312 211 Lybster 233-4 Muckle Roe 315 Beinn Eighe National Nature Mull & Iona Food Festival 24, 91 Reserve 263-4 M Mull of Kintyre 68 53, 54, 119 MacDonald, Flora 193, 213 bagging 35, 54, 119, 180 Ben More Coigach Nature Reserve 250 MacDonalds massacre 194 248

27-index-shi2.indd 379 379 7/10/2011 1:16:43 PM national parks & nature reserves 276, 277 Portree 190-2, 191 380 continued Orphir 276-7 pottery 193 Caenlochan National Nature Orwell, George 86, 88 prehistoric sites 20 Reserve 142 ospreys 132, 346 Bharpa Langass 211 Cairngorms National Park 127 otters 164, 211, 317, 343, 345-6 275-6 Craigellachie Nature Reserve 128 Out 314-15 Brown & White Caterthuns 143 Glen Affric National Nature outdoor adventures 20, 28-36 Reserve 158 Dwarfie Stane 286 Hill o’Many Stanes 234

INDEX INDEX Handa Island 247 318 P Jarlshof 313-14 Hill of White Hamars 286 Pabbay 215 Kilmartin Prehistoric Sites 70 Lybster 233-4

N-R Isle of Noss 307-8 311 251 296-7 282 Loch Druidibeg National Nature parks & gardens 346 314 Reserve 212 Achamore Gardens 66 Orkney Explorer Pass 275 Nature Reserve 85 Benmore Botanic Garden 56 Pobull Fhinn 211 Loch Lomond & the Trossachs Brodick Castle & Park 61, 105 Scord of Brewster 310 National Park 44-6, 49, 52 Colonsay House 89 Scottish Centre 118 Loch Maree Islands Nature 272-4 Reserve 259 Da Gairdins i Sand 310 284 Lumbister RSPB Reserve 317 Explorers Garden 123 prehistoric villages 327 Moine Mhor Nature Reserve 70 grounds 94 public holidays 362 Mull Head Nature Reserve 283 Hydroponicum 251-2 puffins 15, 24, 242, 295, Neptune’s Staircase 170 Inverewe Garden 258 15 Nevis Range 170 Ness Islands 149 newspapers 359 Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 49 Q Newtonmore 133-4 House 290 Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 49 North Ronaldsay 297-8 206, 240 Quendale 313 North 211-12 peat bogs 120, 121, 232, 292, 344 Quiraing 194 northern lights 321 Peter Pan 142 peninsula 315-17 phone codes 362-3 R Northwest Highlands 218-66, phosphorescence 321 220-1 radio 325, 359 accommodation 218 photography 251 Rae, Dr John 273 climate 218 Pictish stones 226, 329 RAF Saxa Vord 318 food 218 Bigton 313 rafting 115, see also sea kayaking highlights 220 Eagle Stone 222 railways travel seasons 218 Groam House Museum 219 Alford Valley Steam Railway 137 Northwest Highlands Geopark 244 Meigle 144 Cairngorm Mountain Railway 130 Noup Head 294 Nigg 225 Glenfinnan Station Museum 176 Orkney Museum 279 Jacobite Steam Train 166, 370, 332 Shandwick village 225 O Keith and Dufftown Railway 134 Oban 71-8, Tarbat Discovery Centre 226 72 Old Royal Station 138 Odhar, Còinneach 224 123-6, 124 Rannoch Train Station 120 Old Man of Hoy 16, 285-6, 298-9, planning, see also individual locations 16 Strathspey Steam Railway 127 Old Man of Stoer 248 calendar of events 23-4 370 Old Man of Storr 194 itineraries 25-7 121 Old Scatness 314 ’s Highlands & Islands’ Rannoch Moor 121 opening hours 358 regions 37-9 Reay Forest Estate 244 Orcadian Stone Company 230 travel seasons 23-4 religion 204 Orkney Islands 267-99, 268 plants 343-6 Rest and Be Thankful 54-5 accommodation 267 Plockton 262-3 274 climate 267 Pobull Fhinn 211 River Dee 138 food 267 Poolewe 257-8 Road to the Isles 13, 176-9, 13 highlights 268 population 324-5 Rob Roy MacGregor 52, 53, 110, 163 travel seasons 267 Port Askaig 85 78, 326, 330 Port Charlotte 84-5 rock climbing, see climbing Port Ellen 83 219-22 000 Map pages Portmahomack 226 Ross of Mull 96-7 000 Photo pages Portnahaven 85 Rothesay 57-61 Rothiemurchus Estate 128 Seven Men of Moidart 175 Callanish Standing Stones 12, 289-91 289 206-7, 12 381 110 Shetland Islands 300-22, 301 Kilmartin Glen 70 RSPB reserves, see national parks & accommodation 300 Machrie Moor Stone Circle 64 nature reserves climate 300 Ring of Brodgar 274 ruins food 300 Standing 274 Barnhouse Neolithic Village 275 highlights 301 Stanydale Temple 310 Beauly Priory 158 travel seasons 300 stately homes Bernera Barracks 164 Shieldaig 260 Hill House 48 INDEX Bishop’s Palace 278 shinty 341-2 Mount Stuart 57-8 Earl’s Palace 275, 278 Skaill House 273-4 Steall Meadows 169

Inchmahome Priory 49 Skara Brae 272-4 Stevenson, Robert Louis 81, 294, 339 R-T John Clunies-Ross’ house 309 Skeld 310 202-5, 203 Oronsay Priory 88 skiing & snowboarding 34 Strachur 57 Cairngorm 130 Strathan 170 S Glencoe Mountain Resort 172 Strathdon 137-8 safety 369 Glenshee 144 Strathglass 158-9 hitching 369 Lecht Ski Resort 138 Strathnaver Trail 241 road 368 Nevis Range ski area 170 Strathpeffer 222-3 sailing 35 Skipness 66 Stromness 270-2, 270 Glencoe Village 172 slate quarries 78 291-2 Loch Insh, Kincraig 131 Sleat 187-8 174 Plockton Regatta 24, 262 Sligachan 188 Suilven 249, 251 Scottish Series Yacht Races 23, 66 snowboarding, see skiing & Sumburgh 313-14 Tighnabruaich 56 snowboarding Summer Isles 251-7 West Highland Yachting Week 73 284-5 surfing 36, 237 Salen 174, 175 212-13 285-7 salmon 228, 232, 345, see also T Southern Highlands & Islands fishing Tain 225 42-78, 43 Sandaig Bay 164 282 accommodation 42 Sanday 293-4 Tarbert 65-6, 208-9 climate 42 Sands O’Right 284 Tarskavaig 187 food 42 Sandwick 312-13 tartan 341 highlights 43 Sandwood Bay 264-5 taxis 51 travel seasons 42 Scalloway 308-9 Taynuilt 79 sports 340-2 Scapa Flow 36, 282, 283, 286 Tayvallich 69 sporting events scenic drives 120, 126, 228, 244, 250 telephone services 362-3 Cowalfest 24 Bealach na Ba 261 textiles Crinan Classic Boat Festival 69 Road to Skye 162-5 Fair Isle Crafts 321 Étape 124 Road to the Isles 13, 176-9, 13 Harris Tweed 203, 208 Plockton Regatta 24, 262 Scott, Sir Walter 49, 53, 188, 334, 339 Shetland Textile Working Museum Scottish Series Yacht Races 23, 66 Scottish Rights of Way & Access 303 The Ba’ 282 Society 29 theatre 155, 202 Tiree Wave Classic 101 Scourie 245-7 Mull Theatre company 94 Tour of Mull Rally 91 Scousburgh 313 Pitlochry Festival Theatre 124 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup Scrabster 237-9 theme parks 24, 167 scuba diving, see diving Landmark Forest Heritage Park 132 West Highland Yachting Week 73 sea angling, see fishing Nessieland Castle Monster Centre World Stone-Skimming sea kayaking 10, 33-4, 10, see also 161 Championships 77 canoeing Thieves Holm 289 St Columba 98 Isle of Arran 61 Three Sisters 171 St John’s Head 286 Isle of skye 185 237-9, 238 St Kilda 207, 214 Loch Laxford 244 Tighnabruaich 56 St Maelrubha 259-60 Mallaig 178 time 363 St Margaret’s Hope 284 Oban 72 Tingwall 309 St Ninian’s Isle 313 Summer Isles 252, 252-3 Tobermory 92-4 97 seaplanes 367 Toberonochy 78 standing stones 327 senior travellers 359 Tokavaig 187 Achavanich Standing Stones 234

27-index-shi2.indd 381 381 7/10/2011 1:16:43 PM tombs, see burial sites Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail 260, websites, see internet resources 382 Tomich 158-9 263-4 weights 359 Tomintoul 136-7 Ben Lawers 53, 54 Weisdale 309-10 Tongue 241 Ben Lomond walk 102, 102 106-13, 165-6, Torridon 260-1 Cairngorms, the 130, 133 174, 107, 7 tourist information 363 Central Highlands 121, 143 Westray 294-6 tours 369 Cuillin Hills 188 whale watching 9, 32, 78, 93, 96, 98, Highland Safaris 115 Eaval walk 216-17, 217 187, 9, see also wildlife cruises INDEX INDEX Inverness 149 Eday Heritage Walk 292 Whaligoe Steps 234 island tours 73 Glen Coe & Glen Etive 180-1 Whalsay 314-15 Traigh Mor 214 Goatfell walk 103-5, 104 whisky 7, 352-3, 7, see also distilleries

T-Y T-Y Traigh Uige 207 Great Glen & Lochaber 138, 140, festivals 23, 82, 136 train travel 366, 369-70 163, 169, 170, 171 Whisky Museum 134 travel to Scotland’s Highlands & Great Glen Way 159 Whiting Bay 64 Islands 365-6 Isle of Bute 58-9 Wick 234-5 travel within Scotland’s Highlands & Isle of Mull 91, 92 wildlife centres

Islands 366-70 Linn of Dee Circuit Walk 146-7 Alladale Wilderness Lodge &

Treasures of the Earth 170 Muckle Roe Walk 321-2 Reserve 227

trekking, see walking Northwest Highlands 222, 224, 231, Ardnamurchan Natural History 97 237, 252, 254, 261 Centre 175 Trossachs, the 49-54 official long distance footpaths 30 Black Isle Wildlife Park 219 194-5 Old Man of Hoy Walk 16, 298-9, Gairloch Marine Wildlife Centre trout 248, 252, see also fishing 298, 16 258-9 Turner, JMW 188, 334 Orkney Islands 295 Highland Wildlife Park 131 TV 359 Quiraing walk 215-16, 215 Islay Natural History Visitor Centre 84 Tyndrum 47-8, 111 Sandwood Bay to Cape Wrath Walk 264-6, 265 Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre 122 walk 145-6, 145 U Marine Discovery Centre 93 Shetland Islands 311, 316, 321-2 Uig 195 wildlife cruises Skye & the Western Isles 184-5, 97 Fortrose 219 189, 193, 196-7, 197-8, 209, 212 Ullapool 253-6, 254 Harris 210 Unst 318-20 Southern Highlands & Islands 45, 52, 58, 60, 66, 87 Inverness 149 Unst Bus Shelter 319 Speyside Way 31, 136 North Coast Marine Adventures 235 Up Helly Aa 23, 303 West Highland Way 7, 106-13, 174, Plockton 262 Urquhart Castle 161 107, 7 wildlife watching waterfalls Ardmore Islands 83 V Bracklinn Falls 50 Bressay 308 vacations 362 Eas a’Chuil Aluinn 245 Isle of Islay 81 Vat o’Kirbuster 292 Eas Chia-aig 170 Isle of Mull 96 vegetarian travellers 350 Fairy Glen 222 Loch Linnhe 167 Victorian letter box 258 Falls of Dochart 53 Orkney Island tours 269 Victorian Toilets 58 Falls of Foyers 162 Scalloway 308 Vikings 329-30 Falls of Glomach 163 Scourie cruises 247 Dwarfie Stane 286 Falls of Kirkaig 249 Shetland Islands 317 Jarlshof 313-14 Falls of Lora 79 William Balfour Baikie 277-8 Skidbladner Longship 319 Falls of Measach 257 windsurfing 101, 131 Up Helly Aa 23, 303 Falls of Shin 228 wine 283 Viking stofa 311 Glenashdale Falls 64 Wolf of Badenoch 122, 123 visas 19, 364 Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall 174 women travellers 364 Voe 314 Linn of Quoich 141 work 364 Plodda Falls 158 World Heritage Sites W Reekie Linn 142 Heart of Neolithic Orkney 272-5 walking 21, 28-30 Victoria Falls 260 St Kilda 214 Angus Glens, the 143 watermills Wyre 291 Huxter Mills 310 Quendale Watermill 313 000 Map pages Y Waternish 193-4 Yell 317-18 000 Photo pages weather 18, see also individual regions

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These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for Sights T Tours Drinking 1 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping F No payment Courses Information/ required C 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right with our content.’