Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & the Gallura
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & the Gallura Includes ¨ Why Go? Olbia . 145 Costa Smeralda evokes Sardinia’s classic images: pearly- Golfo Aranci . .150 white beaches and weird, wind-whipped licks of rock taper- San Teodoro . 151 ing into emerald seas. The stretch of dazzling coast that the Costa Smeralda . .153 Aga Khan bought for a pittance in the 1960s is today the playground of millionaires and A-listers. Come summer, the Porto Cervo . 153 scandal-hungry paparazzi haunt the marinas, zooming in on Santa Teresa di oligarchs cavorting with bikini-clad beauties on yachts so Gallura . .159 big they eclipse the sun. Porto Pollo & A few kilometres’ drive inland and you could be on an- Isola Dei Gabbiani . .162 other island entirely: here vine-striped hills roll to deeply Palau . 162 traditional villages and mysterious nuraghe (Bronze Age Parco Nazionale fortified settlements), silent cork-oak woods and granite dell’Arcipelago di la mountains. Immune to time and trends, the hinterland is Maddalena . 163 a refreshing contrast to the coast. Hide away in a country Tempio Pausania . .166 agriturismo (farm stay) for a few days to appreciate a very different version of the good life. Further north the Gallura coast becomes wilder, the pre- serve of the dolphins, divers and windsurfers who splash Best Places to Eat around in the startlingly blue waters of La Maddalena ma- rine reserve. ¨ Agriturismo Agrisole (p146) ¨ Li Mori (p152) ¨ Jaddhu (p157) Road Distance (km) ¨ I Frati Rossi (p154) Olbia 22 ¨ Agriturismo Saltara (p159) Porto Cervo 18 25 Santa Teresa di Gallura 27 49 45 Best Places to San Teodoro Stay 49 27 52 76 ¨ B&B Lu Pastruccialeddu (p211) ¨ Hotel Panorama (p209) Santa Teresa di Gallura ¨ B&B Petite Maison (p212) Arzachena Olbia Porto Cervo ¨ Agriturismo Ca’ La Somara (p211) 145 OLBIA affordable alternative to the purpose-built POP 54,850 resorts stretching to the north and south. Often ignored in the mad dash to the Costa Smeralda, Olbia has more to offer than first History meets the eye. Look beyond its industrial Archaeological evidence has revealed the outskirts and you’ll find a fetching city with existence of human settlement in Sardinia’s a centro storico (historic centre) crammed northeast in the mid-neolithic period (about with boutiques, wine bars and cafe-rimmed 4000 BC), but Olbia was almost certainly piazzas. Olbia is a refreshingly authentic and founded by the Carthaginians in the 4th or Isola San Maria Mediterranean Sea Isola Santa Punta Maddalena Tyrrhenian Teresa di Falcone Isola Spargi Isola Sea Gallura Caprera Capo Testa #7 #\ La Isola Maddalena Parco Nazionale Isola dei #\ Isuledda Gabbiani #2 dell'Arcipelago Palau di La Maddalena 66#\ #\ Porto Pollo #5 Monte Capo d'Orso Russu R Capo Ferro (90m) 8ÀSS125 Baia Sardinia #\ Porto Cervo Golfo dell' #\ Asinara Costa Tempo di #1 o Smeralda is Malchittu \# Cannigione rad Arzachena #\ a \# ä# Capriccioli P a a Tomba di ä# Cantine t Luogosanto 66 s ¼/ o SP90 #\ Li Lolghi ä# C ä# #8 Surrau Porto Nuraghe San Isola Necropoli #\ Rotondo Albucciu #\ Rossa 8ÀSS133 di li Muri Pantaleo OLBIA, C THE THE C #\ Cugnana #\ Golfo 8ÀSP427 #\ Aranci 8ÀSS125 Capo Figari Nuraghe Golfo di Maiori Luras #6 Lago di Liscia Olbia a #\ Olbia Lun #\ ä# #] Capo Ceraso lla de Aggius #\ Aeroporto Olbia \# lle Calangianus a #\ Tempio O V #4 Costa Smeralda #– Isola Santa 8À S Pausania SS127 8À 8ÀSS125 Tavolara Maria SS127 TA 8ÀSS127 Monte Limbara Porto #\ R (1359m) San Paolo S Co M 8ÀSS199 Cala GALLURA THE MERALDA& #\ Ü#Chiesa di Santa g #3 Brandinchi ERALDA THE& GALLURA Perfugas h Maria della Neve i n #\ Monti Punta a s Berchidda Sabbatino Monte #\ 8ÀSS199 Acuto R \# Padru #\ (493m) 8ÀSS389 San Teodoro Lago di Coghinas Budoni #\ Oschiri #\ 016km e# 010miles Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & the Gallura Highlights 1 Hang out with the 3 Lounge on the frosty 6 Swap the glamour of the OLB bronzed, beautiful and white sands of Cala coast for the haunting silence superfamous on the Costa Brandinchi (p152), of Lago di Liscia (p158) . IA Smeralda (p153) . nicknamed ‘Little Tahiti’ . 7 Clamber the weirdly 2 Island-hop around 4 Explore the endless sculptured boulders of Capo the Parco Nazionale cork forests around Tempio Testa (p161) . dell’Arcipelago di La Pausania (p166) . 8 Taste crisp Vermentino Maddalena (p163) and 5 Go with the wind and whites and rich Cannonau dive into its jewel-coloured take to the wild waters off reds in contemporary winery waters . Porto Pollo (p162) . Cantine Surrau (p155) ..