Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains

^^%\?/ -x^'' o .1 O' X ., V .-l\' '^A o o' v-^' O O _4 ^. '/7 , ^0 O. ._ n/5W^ O " -^ -^ ^ -^ ' n\ o n t . "^' -' -^i = V .-í''- C Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/adventuresinmexi01ruxt ADVENTTJRES II MÉXICO THE ROCKY MOUNTAIIS, BY GEORGE F. líUXTON, ESQ., MEMBER OF THE ItOYAL GE O GB AP HI C AL SOCIETT, THE ETHNOL OGrCAIV SOCIEXy, ETC., ETC. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 82 CLIFF STREET. 1848. c\ x^ ( iii ) P R E F A C E. SoME apology, I am aware, is necessary for offering so meager ari account of México as that which is set before the reader in the following pages. In justice to myself, however, I may state that all the notes and memoranda of the country I passed through, as well as several valuable and interesting documents and MSS. connected with the history of Northern México and its Indian tribes, which I had collected, were unfortunately destroyed (with the exception of my rough note-book) in passing the Pawnee fork of the river Arkan- '"''' sas, as I have mentioned in the body of this narrativo ; this loss has left me no alternativo but to give a brief outline of my journey, which, bare as it may be, I prefer to lay before the reader in its present shape, rather than draw ai hazard from the treacherous note-book of memory, or the less reUable source of a fertile imagination. It is hardly necessary to explain the cause of my visiting México at such an unsettled period ; and I fear that circum- stances will prevent my gratifying the curiosity of the reader, should he feel any on that point. This httle work is merely what its title professes it to be, " The Rough Notes of a Journey through México, and a Winter spent among the wild scenes and wilder characters of the Rocky Mountains," and has no higher aim than to give an idea of the difficulties and hardships a traveler may anticipate, should he venturo to pass through it and mix with its semi-barbarous and uncouth people, and to draw a faint picture of the lives of those hardy pioneers of civiliza- tion, whose lot is cast upon the boundless prairies and rug- ged mountains of the Far West, PREFACE. With a solitary exception, I have avoided touching upon American subjects ; not only because much abler pens than mine have done that country and people more or less justice or injustice, and I wished to attempt ío describe nothing that other English travelers have written upon before, and. to give a rough sketch of a very rougli journey throngh comparatively new ground ; but, more than all, for íhe reason that I have, on this and previous visits to the United States, met with such genuine kindness and unbounded hos- pitality from all classes of the American people, both the richest and the poorest, that I have not the heart to say one harsh word of them or theirs, even if I could or would. Faults the Americans have—and who have nof? But they are, I maintain, failings of the head and not the heart, which nowhere beats warmer, or in a more genuine spirit of kindness and aíFection, than in the bosom of a citizen of the United States. Would that I could say as much of the sister people. From south to norlh I traversed the vvhole of the Republic of México, a distance of nearly two thousand miles, and was among tha people of every rank, class, thrown and station ; and I regret to have to say that I can not remember to have observed one single commendable trait in the character of the Mexican ; always excepting from this sweeping clause the women of the country, who, for kindness of heart and many sterling qualities, are an ornament to their sex, and to any nation. If the Mexican possesses one single virtue, as I hope he does, he must keep it so closely hidden in some secret fold of his sarape as to have escaped my humble sight, although I traveled through his country with eyes wide open, and for conviction ripe and ready. I trust, for his sake, that he wüí speedily withdraw from the bushel the solitary light of this concealed virtue, lest before long it be absorbed in the more potent fíame which the Anglo-Saxon seems just now dis- posed to shed over benighíed México. — — CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Uncler Weigh—Fellow-Passengers—Amusements on Board—Land in Sight —Madeira—Appearance of Island—Funchalese Jockeys—Straw Hats and Cauary-Birds—A Ride up the Mountain—Again ou Board—Land, ho ! Barbadoes—Betsy Austin—Pepper-Pot—Importúnate Negroes . Page 13 CHAPTER II. Grenada—San Domingo—Jacmel—Jamaica—Kingston—Killbucra—Cuba Isle of Pines—Havaua—Its Harbor—Appearance of the Towu Paseo Tacón— Hávaneras— Eyes and Fans—The Theater—Once more under Weigh—A Squall—Brouglit to— Military Despotism—A Captm-e—Speak a Steamer—Santa Anna—Arrive at Vera Cruz . 19 CHAPTER III. Vera Cruz—Appearance of Town—Cadaverous Population— Sopilotes—Me- mentos of War—American Bombardment— Unnecessary Act— Prepara- tions for Reception of Santa Anna—Military Display— El Onze—Mexican Soldier—Mexican Fonda—Frijoles—Jolly Priests—Castle of San Juan de Ulloa—Its Grarrison—Weakness—The Fever-Cloud—Vera Cruz Market Fish and Fowl—Papagayas and Snakes 24 CHAPTER IV. Arrival of Santa Anna—Capers of El Onze—Landing of the General—His Appearance—La Señora—Cool Reception—An Emente—Only a Revolu- tion—Pati-iotic Tinman—Conference with Santa Anna—Bearding the Lion —Manifiesto—Rumors of Vomito—Prepare to start for the Capital—Castillo —Mexican Dandy — Leave Vera Cruz — The Road — Rainy Weather — Marching Order of Mexican Soldiers—British Sailors ... 29 — CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. , Puente Nacional—Wretclied Country—Indian Huts—ludían Contentment Weatlier Clears—Bad Roads—Rank Vegetation—Birds and Bugs—El Plan del Eio—Mesón—A Male Chambermaid—Valley of El Plan—Los Dos Ríos—Peak of Orizaba—Different Scenery—Arrive at Jalapa—Jalapa Delicious Climate—Scenery—Las Jalapeñas—Femalo Gomplexions— Cot- ton Faetones—Neighborhood—Productions—Coacli Traveling to México —Robbers and Robberies—Ai-rival of English Naval Officers—Prepara- tions for Road— Examine Arms—The Diligencia—Pacific Passengers Mountain Scenery—CofTre of Perote—Paróte and Castle—Road to Pue- bla — Crosses — Novedades — Arrive at Puebla— Eobber Spy — Cosas de Méjico Page35 CHAPTER VI. Puebla—Fertility of the Country—Mexican Antiquities—Fat Woman—Her Consolation—Leave Puebla—Sunrise—Scenerj^—Rio Frió—Mal Punto Escort—Dangers Past—Numerous Crosses— False Alarm—First View of México—The Valley—The City—The Sti-eets-Filth—Léperos—Pordi- oseros—Wretchedness and Vice—Religious Processions—A "Fix"—Tho Cathedral—Ornaments—A MurUlo—Gold and Silver—View from the Summit — Sight-seeing — Museo Nacional — Aztecan Relies — Equestrian Statue of Carlos IV. of Spain—Gallery of Paintings—Tacubaya—Aque- duct—Chapultepec—Cypresses—Magnificeut Foliage ... 43 CHAPTER VH. The Paseo—Fashiouable Drive—Equestriaus—Prívate Houses—Hotels Theaters—Streets at Night—Seeing Life in México—A Pulquería—Taken for a Yankee—Make Peace—Predilectíon for Güeros—Wounded Lépero— The Barrio de Santa Auna—A Fandango—A Fight-Sauve-quí-peut—Soci- ety in México—Preparatíons for the Reception of Santa Anua-Cosas de Méjico—Yankee Horsedealer—Hiring Servant—Preparatíons to start for the North . 50 CHAPTER Vni. Leave México—Our Cavallada—Mules in Confusión—Country inundated— Arrieros in Distress—Donkeys "míred dovvn"—Guatitlan—First Halt— Mesón—Tapage—A Breakfast—Hacienda de Cananas—Luxurious Bath —Indian Visitors— Míseríes of Mesón— Vermin—Ameros' Bivouac— —— CONTENTS. Novedades—Deficiency of Wood—Rio Sarco—A Mesón described—Mesas Puestas—Brealifasts—Hacienda de la Soledad—Band of Robbers—De- cline Attack—San Juan del Rio—Its Gai'dens and Fruits—Difficulty of estimating Population—Day's Traveling—The Volcanic Regiou of Jo- rullo Page GO CHAPTER IX. Qaeretai'o—Gardens—Faetones—Tobacco—Monopoly of Cigars—Pulque Colinclie—Tunas—Pulque-maldng—Its Consumption and Flavor—Streets of Queretaro—Public Bathiug—Ladies in the Gutters—Sin Vergüenza Miserable Accommodation—Tortilleras—Novel Currency—Soap for Silver —Queretaro to Celaya—Limestone—Descent fi-om the Table-Land—Cli- mate changes—The Órgano—Cactus Hedges—Bad Roads—El Paseo—Ma- gueyes and Nopalos—Prickly Pears—Celaya—The Bridge—Church and Collectui'ia—Trade and Population of Town—Productions—Abundance of Hares—La Xuage—Indian Church Ceremonies—Curiosity of Nativos— Seeiug the " Güero"—Temascatéo—Mine Host—His Ideas of England Chapel of Don Miguel—Robbers—Mules Disabled .... 68 CHAPTER X. To Silao—Treatment of Mules—Purchase a Pair—Their Chai'acters—Silao Slopsellers—Fruit-Women—Fruit—Léperos—Washerwomen—Sin Vergü- enzas—Silao—Its Population—Productions—Jalisco—Its Fertility and Advantages—The Plains of Silao—Communication with the Facific—&ilao to La Villa de León—Arrieros—León—Vicious Population—A " Scrape" —A Cuchillada—Clear out—Volcanic Sierra—Tabular Mountains—Road- side Breakfast—Lagos—Dia de Fiesta—The Road Traveiers—Street Bath- ing—Pedlers—Gambliug-Booths—Singing Women—Popular Song—Tho Soldier's Courtship—Lagos to La Villa de la Encamación—Broken Bridge—Adobe Houses—Lagos—Resembles Timbuctuo—Church Organ —Polka—Léperos—Mutilated Object—A pleasant Bea-fellow . 76 CHAPTER XI. To Aguas Calientes—Meet a Pic-nic Party—Gallantry of the Caballeros They beat a Retreat—Aguas Calientes—Patriotic Column—Hacienda of La Punta—Plains of La Punta—Picos Largos—Hoi'se died from Fatigue —To Zacatecas—Abandoned Copper-Mines—Indian Treasure-Hunter Zacatecas—Mines—Deposits of Soda—Novedades-—Loa Indios—Zacate- — CONTENTS. cas to Fresnillo—Audacity of Rolabers—Fresnillo—Its Mines—Govern- ment Greediness—Hacienda de Beneficios—Employés of the Mines, &c —A Mexican Trader—Fresnillo to Zaina—Indian District—Fortified Ha- ciendas—A " Spill"—Zaina—Sombrerete—Wild Coraitry—The Mal Pais, or Volcanic Región—Wild Scenery—Bad Roads—The Hacienda of San Nicolás—Enonnous Bstates—Fi-ighten the Ladies—Volcanic Formations j —Molten Lava—La Punta—Indian Road—Massacre of the Rancheros The Ranchera's Story—The National Game of Colea de Toros—Bull-Tail- ing—The Game of the Cock—Poverty of the Rancho—Road to Durango —Inundated Plains—Gruyas and Wild Geese—Arrive at Durango—Mouut- ain of malleable Iron, &c.

Load more