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Great Britain 12

Great Britain 12

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1032

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Marc Di Duca Big thanks to all who helped me throughout the Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Southeast, especially staff at the tourist offices edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful in Sandwich, Eastbourne and Rye. Thanks also to advice and interesting anecdotes: my wife, Tanya, and sons Taras and Kirill for ac- Charlie Morgan, Ilse Adema, Jade Lao, Jenn Nelson, companying me on some long days of research. Jill Edwards, Lynn Chong, Mayhew Lester, Robert Durenkamp, Rolf Wrelf Belinda Dixon Researching a place is a real joint effort. It’s the result of B&B, bar and hotel staff who share WRITER THANKS their recommendations; tourist office workers Oliver Berry who share their knowledge; random strangers Thanks to James Smart for giving me the gig who share their time and countless kindnesses. and for guidance and support along the way; to Huge thanks to all. And again to James Smart Kate Ardron, Justin Foulkes, Dave Jones, Kate for the gig, LP’s behind the scenes teams, and Whinney, Grace Hickock and Sarah Fox for their fellow authors for humour, wisdom and travel- tips and suggestions; to the team at Wild Card lers’ tales. PR and Watergate Bay for north coast adven- tures; and to Susie and Gracie Berry as always Peter Dragicevich for keeping the home fires burning. Special It’s always a joy to meet up with friends on thanks to Rosie Hillier for accompanying me on the road, so many thanks to Tim Benzie, Rob my southwest adventures and for never failing Carpenter, Catherine Cole, Matt Swaine, and to make me smile. Kerri and Finn Tyler for your company and good cheer. Fionn Davenport A big thanks to all my new friends in Manches- Damian Harper ter for their sterling efforts in getting up to Gratitude to all those people who offered assis- speed with an ever-changing city. Thanks to tance along the way and came up with tips and Laura for accompanying me on my research ideas: Fiona Jenkins, James Munroe, Jon Tyler, trips and to the editors at Lonely Planet who Daisy Harper, Amy Williams, Arlene Fraser, helped put shape on my scratchings. Sarah Andrews, Timothy Benjamin and Emma 1033 Rosalind. Thanks (and apologies) to anyone Andy Symington I may have overlooked. I owe thanks to many, but first to Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland for being great Catherine Le Nevez friends and superb hosts, to Juliette and Cheers first and foremost to Julian, and to David Paton for their perpetual generosity all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism and warm welcome and to my father for the professionals who provided insights, inspira- whisky and much more. Gratitude goes SCENES THE BEHIND tion and good times, especially to Ade also to Morwynne Carlow, Riika Åkerlind Andrews. Huge thanks too to Destination and numerous helpful folk met along the way. Editor James Smart, Senior Cartographer Big thanks also go to co-author Neil Wilson, Mark Griffiths and everyone at LP. As ever, editor James Smart and the LP team. merci encore to my parents, brother, belle- sœur and neveu. Hugh McNaughtan All possible thanks to Peter Dragicevich for ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS his guidance on this project, to my editor Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, James Smart, to the kind people I met in Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- and, most importantly, to Tasmin, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Maise and Willa. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Isabella Noble Cheers to everyone who helped out on the Cover photograph: Walker on the South West road. Big thanks to my talented co-authors, Coast Path, Zennor Head, Cornwall, . especially fellow Oxbridger Belinda Dixon Justin Foulkes/4Corners © for the ‘healthy’ competition. Thanks also to Ellie, Cathy, Rose and David in the Cotswolds; Illustrations: pp88-9 (Tower of ), Becky, Doug, Ali and Christine in Oxford; and pp636-7 (Hadrian’s Wall), pp764-5 (Royal Elly for perfect Michelin-starred dining Mile), pp780-1 (Rosslyn Chapel), pp838-9 company. Extra special thanks to my favour- (Stirling Castle) by Javier Zarracina; pp110-11 ite research assistants Sarah, Jack, Dan, (River Thames) by Javier Zarracina and Andrew and Paps. Michael Weldon.

Destination Editor James Kellie Langdon, Kristin Odijk, THIS BOOK Smart Lauren O’Connell, Rosie This 12th edition of Lonely Product Editors Kate Nicholson, Fionnuala Twomey, Planet’s Great Britain guide- Chapman, Elizabeth Jones, Simon Williamson book was researched and Anne Mason, Amanda Assisting Cartographers written by Neil Wilson, Oliver Williamson Valentina Kremenchutskaya Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Senior Cartographer Mark Assisting Book Designer Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Griffiths Wibowo Rusli Dragicevich, Damian Harper, Book Designer Virginia Cover Researcher Naomi Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh Mc- Moreno Parker Naughtan, Isabella Noble and Judith Cheree Broughton, Andy Symington. They, and Assisting Editors Thanks to Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Joel Cotterell, Liz Heynes, Kate Anna Kaminski, also worked Michelle Bennett, Melanie Mathews, Clara Monitto, Jenna on the previous edition. Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Paul Myers, Susan Paterson, Kirsten This guidebook was produced Harding, Victoria Harrison, Rawlings, Victoria Smith by the following: Gabby Innes, Kate James, 1034 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1035

Index

A Westminster Abbey 70-1 Deep, the 542 BALTIC – Centre for Contemporary Art abbeys, priories & Whitby Abbey 518 Ilfracombe Aquarium 306 623-4 monasteries 27, see Whithorm Priory 931-2 Lakes Aquarium 585 also churches & Aberaeron 719 London Sea Life Barbara Hepworth Museum 342 cathedrals Aberdaron 746 Aquarium 93 Barber Institute of Fine Abbey Gardens 387 Aberdeen 856-61, 858-9 National Marine Aquarium 295-6 Arts 412 Arbroath Abbey 855 Aberdeenshire 855-61 National Sea Life Beatrix Potter Gallery 595 Bath Abbey 319-20 Abergavenny 666-8 Centre 410 Birmingham Museum & Battle Abbey 172 Abergavenny Food Sea Life 261 Art Gallery 409 Cartmel Priory 613 Festival 35. 667 Sea Life Sanctuary 510 Brighton Museum & Art Dryburgh Abbey 823 Abergwaun 692-4 Gallery 177-9 St Andrews Aquarium 845 Dunfermline Abbey & Aberhonddu 703-5, 704 Bristol Museum & Art Arberth 685-6 Palace 851 Aberlour 862-3 Gallery 311 Arbroath 855 Forde Abbey 265 Abermaw 732-3 Christ Church Picture ArcelorMittal Orbit 108 Fountains Abbey & Abersoch 745-6 Gallery 195 Studley Royal 514 archaeological sites, see Abertawe 670-4 Ferens Art Gallery 542 Glastonbury Abbey 330-1 also Roman sites & Aberteifi 719-21 Gallery of Modern Great Malvern Priory 432 museums Art 800-1 Aberystwyth 715-19, 717 Hailes Abbey 214 274 Graves Gallery 540 accommodation 1014-17 Hexham Abbey 638 Belas Knap Long Hastings Museum & Art with children 55 Barrow 214 Iona Abbey 875 Gallery 173 activities 28-9, 31-5, 42-6, Maeshowe 948 Jedburgh Abbey 824 Hayward Gallery 93 see also individual Maiden Castle 258 Kelso Abbey 825 Hepworth Wakefield 536 activities Ness of Brodgar 948 Kirkham Priory 507 Herbert Art Gallery & air travel 1023, 1024-5 Old Sarum 269 Kirkstall Abbey 532 Museum 419 Albert Dock 566-7 Pentre Ifan 695 Lacock Abbey 273 Holburne Museum 321 Aldeburgh 392-3 Silbury Hill 274 Lindisfarne Priory 646 Hunterian Art Gallery 807 Alloway 826-7 949 Llanthony Priory 701 Ikon Gallery 409-10 Alnwick 642-3 10, 270-2, Melrose Abbey 822 Jerwood Gallery 173 Alnwick Castle 642, 390 965, 271, 10 Newstead Abbey 453 Kelvingrove Art Gallery Ambleside 590-3 Sutton Hoo 388 Penmon Priory 756 805-6, 28, 39 amusement parks Uley Bury 216 Priory Church 574 Laing Art Gallery 622 Alton Towers 427 West Kennet Long Rievaulx Abbey 515 Laurel & Blackgang Chine 250-1 Barrow 274-5 Museum 613 Shrewsbury Abbey 438 Blackpool Pleasure Beach architecture 805, 988-92, Leeds Art Gallery 531-2 St Dogmaels Abbey 720 572 988, 990, 991 Manchester Art Gallery St Michael’s Mount 351 Dreamland 162 area codes 23, 1020 549-50 St Nicholas Priory 285 Heights of Abraham 477 Argyllshire 868-83 Manx Museum & National Sweetheart Abbey 829 Legendary Land’s End 347 Arisaig 914 Art Gallery 577-8 Tintern Abbey 666 Anglo-Irish War 978 Arlington Row 204 Market House 436 Tynemouth Priory 629 Angus 851-2 Armadale 930-1 MOMA Machynlleth 713-14 Valle Crucis Abbey 726 Anstruther 848, 850 Arnol 936-7 National Gallery 80-1 Wenlock Priory 444-5 Applecross 926 Arran 883-6, 883 National Portrait aquariums art galleries & museums 29 Gallery 81 Blue Planet Aquarium 561 Aberdeen Art Gallery 856 New Walk Museum & Art Gallery 469 Map Pages 000 Blue Reef Aquarium 339 Abbot Hall Art Gallery 611 Nottingham Photo Pages 000 Bristol Aquarium 311 Arnolfini 311 Contemporary 453 1036 art galleries & museums Stornoway 935 shopping 325-6 Bwlch Nant yr Arian 718 continued Stromness 949 sights 317-21 Calf of Man 579 Pallant House Gallery arts festivals 29, see nightlife 325 Cotswold Falconry 184-5 also festivals & events. tourist information 326 Centre 211 Penlee House Gallery & food & drink festivals, tours 321 Gigrin Farm Red-Kite Museum 348 literary festivals, music Feeding Station 709 festivals, sporting travel seasons 232

INDEX INDEX Potteries Museum & Art travel to/from 326 International Centre for Gallery 430 events Birds of Prey 220 travel within 326 Royal Academy of Cambridge Shakespeare South Stack Cliffs RSPB Arts 81 Festival 375 walking tour 323, 323 Reserve 757 A-B  Saatchi Gallery 95 Grassington Festival 525 bathrooms 53, 1021 birds 643, 1006, 1007

Sainsbury Centre for King’s Lynn Festival 404 Battle 172 birdwatching 1007  Visual Arts 396 393 Battle of Hastings 968 Balranald RSPB Scottish National Manchester International battles Reserve 939 Gallery 774-5 Festival 553 Battle of Bannockburn Cley Marshes 399 Scottish National Royal Academy Summer 840, 971 Gigrin Farm Red-Kite Gallery of Modern Art Exhibition 115 Battle of Bosworth Feeding Station 709 775-6 St Magnus Festival 945 469, 470 Loch Druidibeg National Scottish National West End Festival 808 Battle of Britain 464, Nature Reserve 940 Portrait Gallery 773 Arundel 183-4 979 Malham Cove 525 Tate Britain 91 Ashbourne 476 Battle of Culloden 894, Mawddach Estuary 729 Tate Liverpool 567 976 Ashes, the 1011 Mull 870-1 Tate Modern 90 Battle of Hastings 172, Assynt 921-2 Norfolk Broads 400-1 Tate St Ives 342 968 ATMs 1019 North Uist 939 Battle of Worcester Towner Art Gallery 174 Austen, Jane 320 430-1 Ramsey Island 688-9 Turner Contemporary avaries, see bird parks & 162 beaches 30, 1003 Slimbridge Wetland averies Centre 216 Usher Gallery 460 Bournemouth Beach 253 Avebury 274-7, 275 Somerset Levels 332 V&A Museum of Bude 333 Aviemore 899-901 South Stack Cliffs RSPB Design 852 Fowey 356 Ayr 826 Reserve 755 Walker Art Gallery 565-6 Kynance Cove 350 Ayrshire 826-8 St Bees Head 613 Wedgwood Visitor Newquay 339 Sumburgh 959 Centre 430 Perranporth Beach 341 Symonds Yat Rock 221 White Cube B Sandbanks 255 Titchwell Marsh 402 Bermondsey 93 baby-changing facilities 53 Wells Beach 401 Yell 959 Wordsworth Museum & badgers 1006 Weymouth Beach 261 Art Gallery 593-4 Birmingham 57, 405, bagpipes 759 Whitby 518 York City Art Gallery 408-18, 410-11, 390 26, 501 Bakewell 488-90 Beachy Head 175 accommodation 405, Yorkshire Sculpture Ballater 903 Beatles, the 567-8, 569 413-14 Park 536 Balmoral Castle 903 Beaumaris 756-7 climate 405 arts, the 993-1002 Baltic Triangle 570 Becket, Thomas 156, 158 drinking 415-16 arts centres Bamburgh 644 Beddgelert 740, 742-3 entertainment 416-17 Aberystwyth 718 Bangor 748-50 Bedfordshire 222-4 events 413 Blaenau Ffestiniog 733 bank holidays 1019-20 Bedruthan Steps 339 festivals 413 Cardiff 655-6 Banksy 312 beer 986 food 405, 414-15 Colchester 381 Barmouth 732-3 913 gay travellers 415 Dundee 853 Barnard Castle 632-3 Berneray 939 itineraries 409 Exeter 286 Barra 940-1 Berwick-upon-Tweed 647-8 lesbian travellers 415 Kendal 612 Bath 12, 57, 232, 317-26, Bettyhill 919 nightlife 415-16 Lincoln 464 318, 12 Betws-y-Coed 735-7 shopping 417 London 142-3 accommodation Beverley 543-4 sights 408-13 232, 322 Lowry 553 Bibury 203-5, 13 tours 413 activities 321 Manchester 553, 557 bicycling, see cycling travel seasons 405 climate 232 Plymouth 298 Big Ben 71, 991 travel to/from 417-18 drinking 325 Ruthin 724 bird parks & avaries, see travel within 418 entertainment 325 Salisbury 270 also birdwatching, Birnam 905 events 321-2 nature reserves, wildlife Bishop’s Castle 447-8 festivals 321-2 centres Biwmares 756-7 Map Pages 000 food 232, 324-5 Abbotsbury Swannery 263-4 (Y Mynydd Photo Pages 000 Du) 705-7 1037 Black Mountains (Y Bodleian Library 191 Bristol 307-17, 308-9 Cairngorms National Park Mynyddoedd Duon) Bodmin Moor 358 accommodation 313 898-904, 899 701-2 bog snorkelling 35, 707-8 activities 312-13 Caithness 916-18 Blackpool 572-3 books 962, see also drinking 315 Caldey Island 683 Blackpool Tower 572 literature entertainment 315 Callander 865-7 Blaenafon 668-9 history 967, 968, 973, events 313 Callanish 937

Blaenau Ffestiniog 735 978, 981 festivals 313 711 INDEX Blaenavon 668-9 wildlife 1003, 1006 food 313-15 Cambridge 57, 363, 367-79, Blair Castle 907 Borders Railway 26 nightlife 315 368, 16

Blake, William 995 Borders region 821-6 shopping 315-16 accommodation 363,  B-C 375-6 Blakeney 400-1 Borrowdale 607-8, 609, sights 309-12  activities 374-5 Blenheim Palace 201 609 travel to/from 316 Boscastle 335 climate 363 Bletchley Park 225 travel within 316-17 Boston 465-6 drinking 378 Boat of Garten 902 British Library 102-3 boat travel 1025, see Boudica 966 entertainment 378 British Museum 102, 104- also ferries Bournemouth 252-4 events 375 5, 104, 105 boating, see also sailing Bowder Stone 607 Brixham 290 festivals 375 Ambleside 591 bowling Broadford 930 food 363, 376-8 Bath 321 Bristol 312 Broadstairs 163-4 nightlife 378 Birmingham 413 Newcastle 624 Broadway 213-14 sights 367-74 Blakeney 400 Bowmore 881 Brockenhurst 244-5 tours 375 Borrowdale 607 Bradford 535-6 Brodick 884-5 travel seasons 363 Bristol 312 Braemar 903-4 Brownsea Island 254 travel to/from 379 Cambridge 374-5 Braemar Highlands Brunel’s SS Great Britain travel within 379 Canterbury 158 Games 904, 34 309-10 walking tour 373, 373 Chester 561 Braich-y-Pwll 746 Bryher 361 Cambridgeshire 366-81 Coniston 597-8 Braunton 305-6 Buckingham Palace 73, 75, Campbeltown 878-9 Dover 169 Bray 229 76, 75 campervans 1026 Durham 631 breakfast 982-3 Buckinghamshire 222-4 camping 1014 Eastbourne 175 59, 703-5, 704 Buckler’s Hard 245-6 canals Hebden Bridge 536 National Bude 333-5 Birmingham 409-10 Keswick 605 Park 698-707, 697, 699 budgeting 23, 983, Caledonian Canal 898 Lincoln 460 breweries 1014 1018 Grand Union Canal 466 Lymington 246 Adnams 393 Builth Wells 708-9 Montgomery Canal 712 Norfolk Broads 401 Black Sheep Brewery 511 Burford 205-6 Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Northwest England 548 Cider Museum & King Burnham Deepdale 402-3 Canal World Heritage Oxford 195-6 Offa Distillery 434 Burns House 828 Site 725 Padstow 337-8 Foundry Brewpub 160 Burns, Robert 827, 828, Regent’s Canal 101 Plymouth 296 Greene King Brewery 993 canoeing, see kayaking, 388 Portsmouth 242 Burray 946-7 canoeing & rafting Harveys Brewery 167, 176 River Thames 112, Bury St Edmunds 387-9 Canterbury 56, 153-61, Hawkshead Brewery , 110-11, 110, 111 bus travel 795, 1023-4, 157 230 589 Rutland Water 472 1025-6, 1027, see also accommodation 152 Jennings Brewery 603 Shrewsbury 439 individual locations climate 152 Ludlow Brewing Skipton 523 business hours 1019 food 152 Company 448-9 Southwest England 233 Buttermere 608, 609, 609 travel seasons 152 Shepherd Neame Buxton 481-4, 482 Canterbury Cathedral Southwold 393 Brewery 167 17, 156, 17 St Ives 342 St Andrews Brewing Cape Cornwall 346, St Mary’s 360 Co 847 730 C Cape Wrath 921 Stoke Bruerne 466 Theakston’s Brewery 511 cable cars 109 car travel 22, 1026-7, Stratford-upon-Avon 423 Thornbridge Brewery Cader Idris 728-9 see also individual 489 355 Caerffili 669-70 locations Windsor & Eton Brewery Ullswater 610 Caergybi 757-8 Cardiff 17, 59, 651, 653-65, 228 West Wight 252 Caerlaverock Castle 829 654, 656, 658, 17 Brexit 962-3 Weymouth 261 Caerleon 666 accommodation 651, Bridge of Sighs 191 Windermere 586 Caernarfon’s 746-8 659-60 Bridgnorth 445-6 Windsor 228 Caerphilly 669-70 climate 651 Brighton 177-83, 178 York 501 Cairngorm Mountain 901 drinking 662-3 1038 Cardiff continued Cawdor Castle 894 Pembroke Castle 684 Cawder Castle 894 entertainment 663 Chepstow Castle 665 Pendennis Castle 352 cell phones 22, 1020 events 659 Chillingham Castle 641 Penrhyn Castle 749 964-5 festivals 659 Clifford’s Tower 501 Penrith Castle 616 cemeteries food 651 Colchester Castle 381 Pevensey Castle 175-6 Auld Kirk 826 gay travellers 661 Conwy Castle 750 Peveril Castle 484 Greyfriars Kirkyard 772

INDEX INDEX highlights 652 Corfe Castle 256 Pickering Castle 517 Highgate history 653-4 Crathes Castle 861 Portland Castle 263 Cemetery 112-13 itineraries 653 Criccieth Castle 745 Powderham Castle 285 Wolvercote

C lesbian travellers 661 Culzean Castle 828 Powis Castle 712 Cemetery 196   nightlife 662-3 Dartmouth Castle 291 Raby Castle 634 central 60, 833-86, shopping 663-4 Dover Castle 167 Raglan Castle 668 834-5 accommodation 833 tourist information 664 Duart Castle 872 Richmond Castle 528 climate 833 travel seasons 651 Dunnottar Castle 861 Royal Pavilion 177 food 833 travel to/from 664 Dunrobin Castle 916 Scarborough Castle 510 highlights 834 travel within 664-5 Dunstanburgh Scone Palace 850 travel seasons 833 Cardiff Market 663, 17 Castle 643 Segedunum 625 Centre for Alternative Dunster Castle 279 Sherborne New Cardigan 719-21 Technology 713 Dunvegan Castle 933 Castle 266 Carlisle 614-16 Ceredigion 715-21 Durham Castle 630 Sherborne Old Carloway 937 Cerne Abbas 260-1 Castle Castle 266 Carmarthenshire Cerne Giant 260 678-9, 231 763, 766 Shrewsbury Castle 438-9 Chagford 302-4 Cartmel 613 Eilean Donan Castle 927 Skipton Castle 523 Chapel Porth 341 Cas-gwent 665 Farnham Castle 186 St Andrews Castle Charles II 975 Castle Howard 506-7 Floors Castle 825 843, 845 Chaucer, Geoffrey 993 Fulham Palace 100 Stirling Castle 836, Cheddar Gorge 328 605 Glamis Castle 853 838- 9, 838, 839 cheese 51 castles & palaces 15, 27, Hampton Court Palace 989, see also stately 75, 113-14, 116-17, 74, Sudeley Castle 214 Cheltenham 217-19, 218 homes, manors & 116, 117 Tintagel Castle 336 Chepstow 665 historic buildings Hastings Castle 173 Totnes Castle 292 Chesil Beach 263 Alnwick Castle 642, 390 Helmsley Castle 515 Tower of London 75, Chester 559-63, 560, 390 Arundel Castle 183 Hermitage Castle 824 83-4, 88-9, 74, 88, 89 Chesterfield 478-9 Balmoral Castle 903 Inveray Castle 876 Tretower Court & Chichester 184-6 Castle 702 Bamburgh Castle 644 Kenilworth Castle 421 children, travel with 52-5 Urquhart Castle 896 Banqueting House 77 Kensington Palace 95 Chipping Campden 212-13 Warwick Castle 419 Beaumaris Castle 756 Lancaster Castle 573 Chipping Norton 210-11 Windsor Castle 75, Belvoir Castle 463 Leeds Castle 160 Christie, Agatha 289, 291 225-7, 74-5 Berkeley Castle 217 Leicester Castle 469 Church Stretton 446-7 Wolvesey Castle 238 Bishop’s Palace 327 Lewes Castle 176 churches & cathedrals 27, Wray Castle 589 Blair Castle 907 Lincoln Castle 460 see also abbeys, Castleton 484-7 Blenheim Palace 201 Lindisfarne Castle 646 priories & monasteries Castletown 578-9 Buckingham Palace Ludlow Castle 448 Arundel Cathedral 183-4 cathedrals, see churches & 73, 75, 76, 75 Beverley Minster 543-4 Lulworth Castle 257 cathedrals Caerlaverock Castle 829 Birmingham Muncaster Castle 612-13 caves Caernarfon Castle 747 Cathedral 409 Needles Old & New Blue John Cavern 486 Caerphilly Castle 669-70 Battery 252 Brecon Cathedral 703 Carnglaze Caverns 358 Cardiff Castle 654-5 Newark Castle 458 Canterbury Cheddar Gorge 328 Cathedral 156 Cardigan Castle 720 Nothe Fort 261 City of Caves 453 Carlisle Cathedral 614 Carisbrooke Castle 249 Norwich Castle 396 Clearwell Caves 220 Cathedral of the Carlisle Castle 614 Nottingham Peak Cavern 486 Peak 484 Carreg Cennen 706 Castle 452-3 Peak District 479 Chester Cathedral Castell Coch 660 Okehampton Castle 304 Poole’s Cavern 482-3 559-60 Castle Rising 404 Orford Castle 392 Shell Grotto 162 Chichester Castle Rushen 578 Oystermouth Castle 674 Cathedral 184 Speedwell Cavern 486 Palace of Church of St Treak Cliff Cavern 486 Holyroodhouse 770-1 Laurence 448 Wookey Hole 327 Map Pages 000 Peel Castle 579 Church of St Mary the Photo Pages 000 Virgin 172 1039 Church of St Mary the St Helen’s Church 400 National activities 581 Virgin (Bilbury) 204 St James’ Church Park 276 climate 580 Church of St Peter & St (Chipping Newquay 340 driving tours 609, 609 Paul 209 Camden) 212 689 food 580 Church of St Senara 346 St John the Baptist’s Porthgain 690 travel to/from 581 Church of the Holy Church (Burford) 205 Cockermouth 603-4 travel within 581

Trinity (York) 501 St John the Baptist’s INDEX Coed y Brenin Forest highlights 582-3 Collegiate Church of St Church (Cirencester) Park 732 202-3 history 581 Mary 419-20 Coigach 922 Coventry Cathedral 418 St Machar’s travel seasons 580

Colchester 381-2  C-D Cathedral 861 walking 581 Derby Cathedral 473-4 Coldbackie 919  Dunkeld Cathedral 905 St Magnus Cumbrian Coast 612-16 Cathedral 943 Coll 871 Durham Cathedral 630 currency 1019 St Martin’s Church 156 Colonsay 879 Elgin Cathedral 862 customs regulations 1017 St Mary & All Saints Coniston 597-8 Ely Cathedral 380 Cwmduad 674 Church 478 Conwy 750-2 Exeter Cathedral 284 cycling 44, 601, 1025, 601, St Mary’s Church (Bury Conwy Castle 748, 351 see also mountain Eyam Church 488 St Edmonds) 388 Cook, Captain James biking Cathedral 801 St Mary’s Church 519, 977 Loch Lomond 863 Gloucester (Chipping Norton) 210 Corbridge 634-5 northwest England 548 Cathedral 220 St Mary’s Church Corfe Castle 256 Great St Mary’s (Painswick) 215-16 Cornish pasties 984 Church 369 St Mary’s Church Cornwall 16, 332-58, 731, D Greyfriars Chapel 158 (Shrewsbury) 437-8 343, 16 dangers 43, 1020, 1027 Haworth Parish St Mary’s Priory Dartmoor National Park Church 538 Church 667 Cotswolds 12, 57, 187, 202-17, 188, 204-5, 13 298-305, 299, 303, 63 Hereford Cathedral 434 St Mary the Virgin Dartmouth 290-2 (Saffron Walden) 383 accommodation 187 Holy Trinity 385 Debatable Lands 581 St Pancras Church 302 activities 189 Holy Trinity Church Dedham Vale 382-3 (Stratford-upon- St Paul’s Cathedral climate 187 deer 1006, Avon) 423 85-6, 110 food 187 20 Derby 473-6 King’s College St Paul’s Church highlights 188 Chapel 367-9 (Birmingham) 411-12 travel seasons 187 Derbyshire 473-9 King’s Lynn Minster 403 St Peter & St Paul 386 travel to/from 189 Derwent Reservoirs 487 Kirkstall Abbey 532 St Peter’s travel within 189 Derwent Valley 477 Leicester Cathedral (Sandwich) 166 Covell, Thomas 574 desserts 984 467-9 Truro Cathedral 354 Covent Garden 81, 146, 78, Devon 282-307 Cathedral 428 Wells Cathedral 327 25, 985 Dickens, Charles 164, 994 Lincoln Cathedral 460 Westminster Coventry 418-19 Dinbych Y Pysgod 681-4 Liverpool Cathedral 565 Cathedral 76-7 Cowes 249 Dinner by Heston Llandaff Cathedral 658-9 Winchester Craignure 872 Blumenthal 128, 50 Cathedral 236-7 Norwich Cathedral 394-6 Crail 847-8 disabilities, travellers Worcester with 1021 Rosslyn Chapel 779, Craster 643 Cathedral 430-1 discount cards 1017 780-1, 780, 781 credit cards 1019 York Minster 496-7 distilleries 20, 987, Round Church 370 Criccieth 745 20 Churchill, Winston 979 Cotswolds Distillery 211 Salisbury Cathedral 267 cricket 1011-12 cider 434, 986-7 Lakes Distillery 26, 605 Sherborne Abbey 265 London 144 cinema 996-8 Penderyn Distillery Shrewsbury Abbey 438 Manchester 557 Cirencester 202-3 705-6 Southwark Cathedral 91 Crickhowell 702-3 Southwell Minster 458 Cley-next-the-Sea 399 Plymouth Gin Cromer 398-9 Distillery 294 St Albans Cathedral 224 Clifton Suspension Bridge 311 Cromwell, Oliver 975 Campbeltown 878 St Andrews Croyde 305-6 Cathedral 843 climate 22, 31-5, 43, Islay 880, 881 1016, Crughywel 702-3 St Bartholomew-the- 22 Jura 882 Cuillin Hills 931 Great 87 climbing, see rock climbing Kirkwall 943-4 Culloden Battlefield 894 St David’s Clitheroe 575 Lochranza 885 Cathedral 686-8 Clovelly 307 Culross 851, 28 Oban 868 St Edmundsbury coal 537 Culzean Castle 828 tours 864 Cathedral 388 coastal attractions 30 Cumbria 58, 580-616, diving & snorkelling St Giles Cathedral coasteering 45-6 582-3 Llanwrtyd Wells 707-8 767-8, 450 Cardigan 720 accommodation 580 Portland Harbour 262 1040 diving & snorkelling food 363 Elan Valley 710-11 Edinburgh’s continued highlights 364 electricity 1017 Hogmanay 782 St Martin’s 361 travel seasons 363 Elgin 861-2 Doctor Who Experience travel to/from 366 Elgin Cathedral 862 of Contemporary Performing Arts 656-7 travel within 366 Elizabeth I 974-5 Dolgellau 729-32 32, 329 East Nuek 847-8 Elizabeth II 980 Glyndebourne 32 INDEX INDEX dolphins 721 East Riding of Yorkshire Elterwater 599 Grand National 568 Domesday Book 969 541-4 Ely 379-81 Dorchester 258-60 Great Yorkshire East Sussex 170-83 Embleton Bay 644 Show 508

D-F Dornoch 915  Eastbourne 174-5 emergencies 23 35, Dorset 252-76 Eastgate (clock) 559 England 63-648, 64-5 702, 34  Douglas 577-8 Edale 487-8 food 49-50 Isle of Man Walking Dover 167-9, 168 Edinburgh 10, 59, 761-96, highlights 64 Festival 576 Dragon Hill 202 762, 768-9, 774-5, 11 Ennerdale 604 Jorvik Viking Festival 501 drinking 18 accommodation 761, environment 1003-8 Kendal Mountain Festival 784-6 drinks 986-7 environmental issues 1008 611 activities 779 driving tours Eskdale 602 Keswick Mountain climate 761 Festival 605 Borrowdale 609, 609 Essex 381-5 drinking 790-2 Lewes Bonfire Buttermere 609, 609 etiquette 25 emergencies 794 Celebrations 176 Cotswolds 206-7, 207 Eton 225-9, 226 entertainment 792-3 Llanwrtyd Wells 707-8 Dartmoor 303, 303 European Union 962-3 events 782-3 Notting Hill Carnival Dover 170-1, 171 Eurostar 1024 festivals 782-3 118, 30 Fife Coast 849, 849 Eurotunnel 1024 food 761, 786, 788-90 Pride Brighton 179 Lake District 609, 609 events, see festivals & highlights 762 Pride London 116 Loch Ness 897, events 897 history 763, 772, 777 Royal Welsh Show 709 North Coast 500 26, exchange rates 23 internet access 794 Spring Flower Show 508 923 Exeter 282-8, 283 itineraries 767 Trooping the Colour Northumberland Coast Exford 279 medical services 794 32, 33 645, 645 Exmoor National Park nightlife 790-2 Up Helly Aa 959 Peak District 485, 485 276-82, 277 postal services 794 Whitby Goth Rye 170-1, 171 Eyam 488 Weekends 519 shopping 793-4 Dufftown 862-3 feudal system 969 sights 763-78 Dulverton 277-8 Ffestiniog Railway 742, tourist information 794 F 451 Dumfries 828-9 Fforest Fawr 705-7 tours 779, 782 FA Cup 1009 Dundee 851-5 Fife 842-51, travel seasons 761 falconry 211 849 Dunfermline 851 film festivals travel to/from 795 Falkland 850 Dunkeld 905 Edinburgh International travel within 795-6 Falmouth 351-4 Dunnet Head 917 Film Festival 782-3 walking tours 779, 782, Farne Islands 647 Dunrobin Castle 916 Kendal Mountain 786-7, 787 Farnham 186 Dunsop Bridge 575 Festival 611 Edinburgh Castle 763, 766 ferries 1024 Dunster 279-80 Screenings at the Edinburgh Festival festivals & events 31-5, Garden Leftbank 553 Dunvegan 932-3 Fringe 783 see also arts festivals, films 962, 1000 Durdle Door 257 Edinburgh International food & drink festivals, history 971, 972, 974 Durham 630-2, 631 Book Festival 783 literary festivals, music festivals, sporting Finlaggan 882 Durness 919-20 Edinburgh International events Fishguard 692-4 DVDs 1015 Festival 783, 759 Amble Puffin Festival Edinburgh International fishing 45, 908 643 Film Festival 782-3 food 20, 47-51, 813, 982-7, Bradford Festival 535 E Edinburgh International see also individual East Anglia 57, 363-404, Jazz & Blues Brighton Festival 179 locations 364-5 Festival 783 Bristol Shakespeare afternoon tea 51 accommodation 363 Edinburgh Military Festival 313 breakfast 813 activities 366 Tattoo 783, 11 Canterbury Festival 158 Dinner by Heston climate 363 Edinburgh Zoo 778 Chelsea Flower Show 115 Blumenthal 128, 50 Edinburgh’s Hogmanay 782 Dylan Thomas fish & chips 49 Festival 671 Edward I of England 970 haggis 812 Edinburgh International Eilean Donan Castle Lancashire hotpot Map Pages 000 Festival 783, 47 927, 19 759 Photo Pages 000 paella 985 1041 pork pies 20 Gallery of Modern Art 675-6 Ffestiniog Railway puddings 984, 985 800-1 Grantchester 379 744, 451 roast beef 813, 812-13 Galloway Forest Park 830-1 Grantham 463 Great Central gardens, see parks & Railway 470 sausages 812 Grasmere 593-5 gardens Isle of Wight Steam Yorkshire pudding 813, Grassington 524-5 Garenin 937 Railway 250 812 Great Glen 890-8

Keighley & Worth Valley INDEX gay travellers 1018 Great Langdale 599 food & drink festivals, Railway 538 see also arts festivals, Birmingham 415 Great Malvern 432-4 festivals & events, Brighton 179, 182 Llanberis Lake Green Man Festival Railway 738 literary festivals, music Cardiff 661 35, 702, 34  F-H festivals, sporting Llangollen Railway 726 Glasgow 817 Greenway 291  events North Yorkshire Moors London 118, 136 Grizedale Forest 597 Abergavenny Food Railway 517 Manchester 557 Festival 35, 667 Guy Fawkes Night 35 Peak Rail 477 Newcastle 627 Aldeburgh Food & Drink Pontypool & Blaenavon Glamis Castle 853 Festival 392 H Railway 669 Beer Festival 375 Glasgow 60, 797, 800-20, Ravenglass & Eskdale , , Hadrian’s Wall 15, 633-40, Big Cheese 670 798-9 802-3 806 Railway 614 accommodation 797, 635, 636-7, 15, 601 Clitheroe Food Settle-Carlisle Line 808, 810 Haltwhistle 639-40 Festival 575 528, 615 activities 807 Hammer Horror 996 Edinburgh Food Severn Valley Festival 783 climate 797 Hampshire 236-47 Railway 445 Falmouth Oyster drinking 814-16 Hampstead Heath 112 Mountain Festival 354 entertainment 816-18 Hampton Court Palace 75, Railway 740 Fèis Ìle 879 events 808 113-14, 116-17, 116, 117 South Tynedale Railway Gin Festival festivals 808 Hardy, Thomas 258, 259 616 Liverpool 568 food 797, 810-14 hares 1006 Swanage Steam Railway 256 Isle of Man Food highlights 798-9 Harlech 734 Vale of Rheidol Railway & Drink Festival 576 history 800 Harris 937-9, 39 716 Keswick Beer internet access 818 Harrogate 507-10 Festival 605 Wells & Walsingham itineraries 801 Harry Potter 223, 995 Ludlow Food & Drink Railway 401-2 medical services 818 Hartlepool 628 Festival 449 Welsh Highland Railway nightlife 814-16 Hastings 173-4 Ludlow Spring 744 Hawes 527-8 Festival 449 shopping 818 Welshpool & Llanfair Hawkshead 595-6 Manchester Food & sights 800-7 Light Railway 712 Drink Festival 553 tourist information 818 Haworth 538-9, 23 Hermitage Castle 824 Robin Hood Beer travel seasons 797 Hay-on-Wye 698-701, 450 Hertfordshire 222-4 & Cider Festival 454 travel to/from 819 health 929, 1018 Hexham 638-9 Scottich Real Ale travel within 819-20 Hebden Bridge 536-7 Highland Games 904, 34 Festival 783 walking tours 809, 809 hedgerows 1008 Highland Perthshire 904-8 Whitstable Oyster Glasgow Cathedral 801 Helmsley 515-17 Highlands 19, 60, 731, Festival 161 Glasgow School of Art 800 608 888-9, 19 York Food Festival 501 Glastonbury 329-33, 330 Henley-on-Thames 229 hiking, see also walking football 14, 141, 1009-10 Glastonbury Festival of Henry IV 972 Ben Nevis 913 Forest of Bowland 575-6 Contemporary Henry VIII 973 Dolgellau 729 Forest of Dean 219-22 Performing Arts 32, 329 Heptonstall 536 Pen-y-Fan 706 forests, see national parks Glen Affric 894-6 Hereford 434-6 13, 59, 728- & forests Glen Coe 20, 908-9, 20 Herefordshire 433-7 43, 741, 13, 731 Fort Augustus 898 Glen Lyon 909 heritage organisations 1021 historic buildings, see Fort George 894 Glen Nevis 912-13 heritage railways stately homes, manors Fort William 910-12 & historic buildings Glencoe Village 909-10 Babbacombe Cliff fortresses, see castles & history 964-81 Glenfinnan 914 Railway 288 palaces Act of Union 975-6 Gloucester Cathedral 220 Bodmin & Wenford fossils 264 Anglo-Irish War 978 Gloucestershire 217-21 Railway 358 Fowey 356-7 Anglo-Saxons 965 Glyndebourne 32 Bridgnorth Cliff Railway 445 Battle of Hastings 968 Glyndŵr’s Way 713 Bure Valley Steam books 967, 968, 973, G goats 1008 Railway 400 978, 981 Gainsborough, Thomas Golden Hind 290 Cliff Railway 281 Brexit 962-3 386 golf 21, 843, 1010, 21 Gairloch 924-5 Dartmouth Steam Celts 964-5 Railway 291 1042 history continued Hoy 950-1 Dartmoor National Ledbury 436-7 Civil War 975 Hull 541-3 Park 300 Leeds 530-5, 531 Clearances, the 977 Hundred Years’ War 972 Exmoor National Leeds Castle 160 Park 276 Elizabethan age 974 Hyde Park 95 legal matters 1018 Forest of Dean 221 films 971, 972, 974 Leicester 467-72, 468 Fowey 356 Great Depression 978 Leicestershire 467-72

INDEX INDEX I house of Lancaster 972 Hereford 435 ice skating 453 Lerwick 954, 956-8, 956 house of York 972 Ironbridge Gorge 443 Ilfracombe 306-7 lesbian travellers 1018 Hundred Years’ War 972 Isle of Skye 929 Industrial Revolution Birmingham 415 H-L Lizard, the 350  industrial age 29 Brighton 179, 182 29, 977 Lulworth Cove 257 Industrial Revolution insurance 1018 Cardiff 661  29, 977 New Forest 243 internet access 1018 Glasgow 817 internet resources 965 Norfolk Broads 401 internet resources 23 London 118, 136 Iron Age 964-5 Symonds Yat 221 activities 42, 44, 45, 46 Manchester 557 Jacobite rebellions 976 Totnes 293 children, travel with 55 Newcastle 627 Magna Carta 26 ‘Keep Calm and Carry history 965 Lewes 176-7 Norman invasion 968-9 On’ 963 Inveraray 876-7 Lewis 935-7 Roman era 965 Kelso 824-6 Inverness 60, 887, 890-4, LGBTIQ travellers 1018 Roman sites 29 Kelvingrove Art Gallery 888-9, 892 805-6, , Birmingham 415 Scotland 966-7, 968, 28 39 accommodation 887 Brighton 182 969, 971, 972, 974 Kendal 611-12 climate 887 Cardiff 661 Stone Age 964 Kenilworth 421-2 food 887 Glasgow 817 Viking era 967 Kensington Palace 95 highlights 888 London 136 Wales 966, 968, 969 Kent 153-70 travel seasons 887 Manchester 557 Wars of the Roses 972 Keswick 604-7, 730-1 Iona 874-6 Newcastle 627 WWI 978 Kew Gardens 113 Ironbridge Gorge 440-4, libraries WWII 979 Killin 867-8 442 Birmingham 408-9 hitching 1027 Kilmartin Glen 877 Islay 879-82, 879 Bodleian Library 191 HMS Alliance 242 King’s Lynn 403-4 Isle of Anglesey 755-8 British Library 102-3 HMS Belfast 91-3 Kingussie 902-3 Isle of Arran 883-6, 883 John Rylands HMS Victory 240 Kintyre 877-9 Isle of Man 576-9 Library 552 HMS Warrior 240 Kirkcudbright 829-30 Isle of Portland 262-3 National Library of Hogmanay (Edinburgh) Kirkwall 943-6, 944 Wales 716 782 Isle of Skye 12, 927-34, Kyle of Lochalsh 927 , Parker Library 371 Holkham 402 928 12 Kylesku 920 Isle of Thanet 163 Pepys Library 371 Holnicote Estate 280 Kynance Cove 350 Isle of Whithorn 832 Radcliffe Camera 191 Holy Island (Lindisfarne) Wren Library 370 646-7 Isle of Wight 247-52, 248 Lichfield 428-30 Holyhead 757-8 Isles of Scilly 359-62 L Lincoln 459-64, 461 Honister Pass 606 itineraries 36-41, 36, 37, Lacock 273-4 Lincolnshire 459-66 Honister Slate Mine 606 38, 40, 41 Ladies of Llangollen 725, 727 literary festivals, see horse racing 1012 Birmingham 409 Lake District 15, 58, also arts festivals, horse riding 46, 601 Cardiff 653 584-612, 731, , festivals & events. food Edinburgh 767 582-3 Dartmoor National 585, 15 & drink festivals, music Park 300 Glasgow 801 festivals, sporting accommodation 586, events Exmoor National 591, 594 Park 276 Bath Literature driving tours 609 New Forest 244 J Festival 321 Jacobite rebellions 976 highlights 582-3 Horton-in-Ribblesdale 526 Cheltenham Literature James II 975 walking 592 hot springs Festival 219 Jedburgh 823-4 Lamb Holm 946-7 Bath 317-9, 321 Dickens Festival 164 John O’Groats 917 Lamlash 886 Bristol 315 Dylan Thomas Jura 882-3, 879 Lanark 820-1 Festival 671 Hove 177-83, 178 Jurassic Coast 260 Lancashire 572-6 Edinburgh International Lancaster 573-5 Book Festival 783 Land’s End 347 Hay Festival 698 K languages 22, 1029-31 Kendal Mountain kayaking, canoeing & Lavenham 386-7 Festival 611 Map Pages 000 rafting 45 Lawrence, TE 257 Richmond Walking & Photo Pages 000 Book Festival 529 1043 Stratford Literary Loch Rannoch 907 nightlife 134-40 events 553 Festival 423 Loch Tay 907-8 Notting Hill 121-3, 128-9, festivals 553 Ways with Words 393 Loch Tummel 907 137, 122 food 554-6 literary museums Lochinver 921-2 Paddington 121-3, 137 football 555 Beatrix Potter Lochranza 885 Pimlico 120-1 gay travellers 557 Gallery 595 London 56, 66-151, Shepherd’s Bush 128-9 history 548-9

Brontë Parsonage 68-9, 106-7 shopping 144-51 information 558 INDEX Museum 538 accommodation Shoreditch 103-7, 133-4, lesbian travellers 557 Charles Dickens 66, 118-24 147, 132 Museum 103 shopping 558 activities 115 sights 70-114  L-M Dickens House sights 549, 552-3 Bayswater 121-3, 137, 122 South Bank 87-94, 120,  Museum 164 travel to/from 558-9 Belgravia 120-1, 128 127-8, 135-6, 92 Dorset County travel within 559 Museum 258 Bloomsbury 102-3, South Kensington 98-9 manors, see stately homes, Dylan Thomas 123-4, 129, 136-7, 106 Spitalfields 103-7, 133-4, manors & historic Centre 671 Camden Hill 137-8 147, 132 buildings Samuel Johnson Camden Town 130, 131 St James’s 70-7, 72 maps 42 Birthplace Museum Chelsea 94-100, 121, 128, St Pancras 102-3, 123-4, Margate 162-3 428 136, 145-7, 98-9 129, 136-7, 106-7 maritime museums literature 230, 827, see City 83-7, 119-20, 127, tourist information 148 Aberdeen Maritime also books 135, 84-5 tours 114-15 Museum 856 Liverpool 19, 58, 563-72, Clerkenwell 124, travel seasons 66 Brixham Heritage 564, 19 131-3, 138, 106-7 travel to/from 148 Museum 290 accommodation 568-9 climate 66 travel within 148-51 Buckler’s Hard Story 245 drinking 570-1 Covent Garden 146, 79, walking tour 82, 82 Captain Cook Memorial Museum 518 entertainment 571 35, 985 West End 77-83, 118-19, Cutty Sark 112 events 568 Docklands 107-9, 124-7, 134-5, 144-5, festivals 568 124, 147 78-9 Discovery Museum 621 food 569-70 drinking 134-40 Westminster 70-7, 72 HMS Alliance at the football 566 East End 107-9, 124, 134, Submarine Museum London Eye 90, 110, 110 242 history 563 139, 147 London Marathon 32, 33 emergencies 147-8 Holyhead Maritime information 571 Long Melford 385-6 entertainment 140-4 Museum 757-8 nightlife 570-1 Looe 357-8 events 115-18 Lizard Lighthouse sights 563, 565-7 Looe Island 357 Heritage Centre 350 tours 567-8 Farringdon 124, 131-3, 138 Lords Marcher 969 Moot Hall 392 travel to/from 571-2 festivals 115-18 Lower Wye Valley 665-6 National Maritime travel within 572 Ludlow 448-52 Museum (Falmouth) Finsbury 106-7 352 Lizard, the 350-1 Lulworth Cove 257-8 Fitzrovia 129-30 National Maritime Llanarthne 678 Lybster 916 Llanberis 737-9 food 66, 124-34 Museum (Greenwich) gay travellers 136 Lydford 304-5 109 Llanberis Path 737, 731 Greenwich 109-12, 139 Lyme Regis 264-5, 54 National Museum of the Llandeilo 678-9 Hammersmith 128-9 Lymington 246-7 Royal Navy 242 Llandudno 752-5 Hampstead 112-13, 139 Lyndhurst 244-5 Nautical Museum 578 Llanfair-Ym-Muallt 708-9 Highgate 112-13, 139 Lynmouth 281-2 Ramsgate Maritime Llangennith 677 highlights 68-9 Lynton 281-2 Museum 165 Llangollen 725-7 history 67 RNLI Grace Darling Llanvihangel Museum 644 Hoxton 103-7, 133-4, Crucorney 701 M Spurn Lightship 542 147, 132 Llanwrtyd Wells 707-8 MacGregor, Robert 863 St Barbe Museum 246 internet access 148 Llŷn Peninsula 743-6 Machynlleth 713-15 True’s Yard 404 Islington 130-1 Llywelyn the Great 970 Mackintosh, Charles Waterfront Museum 254 lesbian travellers 136 Rennie 805, 807 Loch Achray 867 markets Kensington 94-100, 121, Maeshowe 948 Loch Glencoul 920 Brixham 290 128, 136, 145-7 Magna Carta 26, 969 Loch Katrine 867 Cotswolds 208 King’s Cross 106-7 Loch Lomond 863-5 Malham 525 Knightsbridge 121, 128, Leicester 471 Loch Maree 925 Mallaig 914-15 145-7, 98-9 London 87, 93-4, Loch Morlich 901 Manchester 58, 548-59, 130, 146 Marylebone 100-2, 129, Loch Ness 896, 898 550-1 Ludlow 452 137, 101 accommodation 553-4 Loch Ness Monster 895 Plymouth 294-5 medical services 148 entertainment 557-8 1044 Mary, Queen of Scots 974 Caverns 735 Ysgyryd Fawr 701 Dales Countryside Matchars 831-2 Sygun Copper Mine 742 Mousehole 347 Museum 527 Matlock Bath 476-8 mining 537 Much Wenlock 444-5 Darby Houses 441 Matthew 311 Minster Lovell 208 Mull 870-4, 871 Dartmoor Prison Museum 301 measures 1015 mobile phones 22, 1020 Mull of Kintyre 877 Dennis Severs’ MediaCityUK 553 monasteries, see abbeys, Mumbles 674-5

INDEX INDEX House 106 Melrose 822-3 priories & monasteries Murder & Mayhem Derby Museum & Art money 23, 1019 701, midges 929 451 Gallery 474 tipping 25 museums 21, see also art Midlands 57, 405-90, Design Museum 91 ,M 406-7 money changers 1019 galleries & museums 

Dig 501  accommodation 405 Monmouthshire 665-8 literary museums, maritime museums, Dinosaurland 264 activities 408 Montgomery 711-12 military & war Discovery Museum 621 climate 405 Morar 914 museums, science Doctor Who food 405 Moray 861-3 museums, transport Experience 656 museums highlights 406 Moretonhampstead 302-4 Dolaucothi Gold travel seasons 405 Moreton-in-Marsh 211-12 Abbeydale Industrial Mines 679 Hamlet 540 Mid-Wales 59, 696-721, 697 motorcycle travel 1026-7 Dylan Thomas accommodation 696 mountain biking 44, see Action Stations! 241-2 Centre 671 climate 696 also cycling American Museum in Ely Museum 380 Britain 321 food 696 Blaenau Ffestiniog 735 Eyam Museum 488 Armitt Museum 590 highlights 697 Bristol 312 Fashion Museum 320 Ashmolean Museum 195 travel seasons 696 Camel Trail 337 Fitzwilliam Museum 372 Ashmolean Museum military & war museums Coed y Brenin Forest Fox Talbot Museum 273 Park 732 Broadway 213 Battle of Britain Galleries of Justice 453 Beamish Open-Air Memorial Flight Visitor Cotswolds 189 Museum 632 Geffrye Museum 106-7 Centre 464 Dartmoor National Park Beaney House of Art & Greater Manchester Berwick Barracks 648 299, 299 Knowledge 158 Police Museum 556 Bosworth Battlefield East Anglia 366 Beatles Story 566 Great North Heritage Centre 470 Exmoor National Park Museum 621-2 Beatles Story Pier Churchill War Rooms 77 276 Head 567 Grosvenor Museum 561 Cosford Royal Air Force Grizedale Forest 597 Big Pit National Coal Grove Museum of Museum 444 Isle of Man 576 Museum 669 Victorian Life 578 Green Howards Isle of Wight 247 Bill Douglas Cinema Guildhall (Boston) 466 Museum 528 Keswick 605 Museum 285 Guildhall Museum 166 Imperial War Lincolnshire 459 Blists Hill Victorian Hastings Museum 173 Museum 90, 378 London 115 Town 441 Henry Blogg Imperial War Machynlleth 714 Bowes Museum 633 Museum 398 Museum North 553 New Forest 243-4 Brighton Museum 177-9 Herschel Museum of Lincolnshire Aviation Norfolk Broads 401 Astronomy 320 Heritage Centre 464 British Golf Museum 845 northeast England 620 Hollytrees Museum 381 Royal Armouries 530 British Museum 102, Peak District 479-80 , , House of Manannan 579 Royal Green Jackets 104-5 104 105 Hunterian Museum 238 Sherwood Forest Bude Castle 333-4 National Nature Museum 806-7 Spitfire Memorial Buxton Museum 481-2 Reserve 457 International Slavery Museum 164-5 Cadbury World 412-13 Shropshire 437 Museum 566-7 Western Approaches Camera Obscura 766 Isles of Scilly Museum 566 southern Scotland 829 Canal Museum 466 Museum 359 Milton, John 993 southeast England 153 Canterbury Heritage southwest England 233 Jackfield Tile mines 346, 446 Museum 156 Museum 441, 443 Yorkshire 494, 529 Big Pit National Coal Castell Henllys 695 Jewry Wall Museum 470 Museum 669 mountaineering, see rock Castleton Museum 484 Jorvik Viking Centre 499 Dolaucothi Gold climbing Cell Block Museum 648 Judges’ Lodgings 574 Mines 679 mountains City Museum Kelham Island Museum Great Orme Mines 753 Ben Nevis 913 (Winchester) 238 539-40 Honister Slate Mine 606 Cader Idris 728 Coalport China Keswick Museum 604-5 Llechwedd Slate Cambrian 711 Museum 441 King Richard III: Dynasty, Crug Hywel 702 Collection (Lincoln) 460 Death & Discovery 467 Helvellyn 608 Commandery 431 Lake Village Museum 331 Map Pages 000 Pen-y-Fan 706 Cregneash Village Folk Lakeland Motor Photo Pages 000 603 Museum 579 Museum 585-6 1045 Leeds Industrial Newarke Houses Stories of Lynn 403 Hebridean Celtic Museum 530 Museum 469 Surgeons’ Hall Festival 936 Lichfield Museum 428-9 Norwich Castle 396 Museums 772 International Lyme Regis Museum 264 Novium Museum 185 Tullie House Beatleweek 568 Lynn Museum 404 Old House Museum 489 Museum 614 International Musical M Shed 310-11 Old Operating Theatre V&A Museum of Eisteddfod 726

Madame Tussauds 102 Museum 91 Design 26 Islay Jazz Festival 880 INDEX Malvern Museum of Oliver Cromwell’s Verdant Works 853 251 Local History 432 House 380 Verulamium Kendal Calling 611 Peak District Lead Museum 224 Leeds Festival 532 Mary Rose Museum 240  M-N Merseyside Maritime Mining Museum 477 Victoria & Albert Liverpool International

 Museum 567 People’s History Museum 94, 96-7, Music Festival 568 , Morgan Motor Museum 549 96 97 Lovebox 118 Company 432 Pier Museum 384 Viktor Wynd Museum of Meltdown Festival 118 Curiosities, Fine Art & Moyse’s Hall 388 Pitt Rivers Museum 190 Notting Hill Carnival Natural History 109 Museum of Bath Polar Museum 374 118, 30 Wellcome Collection 103 Architecture 320 Powysland Museum & Orkney Folk Festival 949 77 Museum of British Montgomery Canal Reading Festival 228 712 Wensleydale Creamery Surfing 305 Shetland Folk 527 Museum of Edinburgh RAMM 284 Festival 956 West Gate Towers 158 769 Heritage St Magnus Festival 945 Park 670 Whitby Museum 518 Museum of Farnham 186 840 Richmondshire Whitstable Museum & Museum of Iron 441 Welshpool Country Museum 528 Gallery 161 Museum of Lakeland Life Music Festival 712 River & Rowing Wilson, the 217 & Industry 611 Whitby Spring Museum 229 Museum of Lincolnshire Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Session 519 Riverside Museum 804 Museum 114 Life 460 Wireless 118 Museum of Centre 828 World Museum 565 Liverpool 567 Royal World Rugby Museum of London 86 Museum & Art Museum 144 N Museum of London Gallery 284 York Castle Museum 500 Narberth 685-6 Docklands 108 Rotunda Museum 510 Ypres Tower 172 National Museum of Museum of Norwich at Royal Cornwall music 998-1000 Scotland 771 the Bridewell 396 Museum 354 music festivals 29, see national parks & forests Museum of the Royal Crown Derby also arts festivals, 1004, 1005, see Broads 400 Factory 474 festivals & events, food also nature reserves, Museum of the Royal Pump Room & drink festivals, wildlife reserves Gorge 441 Museum 507 literary festivals, Brecon Beacons sporting events Museum of the Jewellery Royal Worcester National Park 698-707, Quarter 411 Porcelain Works 431 Aldeburgh Festival 392 697, 699 Museum of Russell-Cotes 253 Bath International Cairngorms National Witchcraft 335 Saffron Walden Music Festival 321 Park 898-904, 899 National Coal Mining Museum 383 251 Dartmoor National Museum for England Salisbury Museum 268-9 Celtic Connections 808 Park 298-305, 299, 537 Scotch Whisky 568 303, 63 National Football Experience 766 Edinburgh International Exmoor National Museum 552 Seven Stories – The Jazz & Blues Festival Park 276-82, 277 National Media Centre for Children’s 783 Gwydyr Forest 736 Museum 535 Books 623 Fèis Ìle 879 National Forest 474 National Museum Sir John Soane’s Festival of Voice 659 North York Moors Cardiff 654 Museum 81, 83 115 National Park 514-22, National Museum of Soho House 412 Fishguard Folk Festival 516 Scotland 771 Southwell 692 Northumberland National Slate Workhouse 458 Folk Festival 375 National Park 640-1, Museum 738 St Fagans National Glasgow Jazz Festival 634 National Waterfront History Museum 657 808 Pembrokeshire Coast Museum 671 St Mungo’s Museum of Glastonbury Festival National Park 680 Natural History Religious Life & Art of Contemporary Snowdonia National Museum 94, 21, 54 801-3 Performing Arts 329 Park 13, 59, 728-43, New Forest Museum 244 Staffin Dinosaur Green Man Festival 32, 739, 13 Museum 933 New Walk Museum & Art 35, 702, 34 South Downs National Gallery 469 Storiel 749 Park 175-6 1046 national parks & forests Northamptonshire 466-7 sights 190-5 Helmsley Walled continued northeast England 58, tours 196 Garden 515 Yorkshire Dales National 617-48, 618-19 travel seasons 187 Hidcote 212 Park 522-30, 524 accommmodation 617 travel to/from 200 Hyde Park 95 Natural History Museum activities 620 travel within 200 Kensington Gardens 95 94, , 21 54 climate 617 Oyster Card 150 Kew Gardens 113

INDEX INDEX nature reserves, see also food 617 Lost Gardens of bird parks & avaries, getting to/from 620-1 Heligan 352 national parks & highlights 618-19 P Museum Gardens 500 forests, wildlife centres paddleboarding N-P National Botanic Garden  Cley Marshes 399 history 620 Newquay 340 of Wales 678 travel seasons 617 Pool Nature  Plymouth 296 Painswick Rococo Reserve 644 Northleach 208-9 Portland Harbour 262 Garden 215 Orford Ness 392 Northumberland Rutland Water 472 Pavilion Gardens 481 Rutland Water Nature Coast 642-8 Peasholm Park 510 Reserve 472 Northumberland National Padstow 337-9 Portager Garden 352 Sherwood Forest Park 640-1, 635 Painswick 215-16 National Nature northwest England 58, 545- painting 1000-2 Prior Park Estate 320 Reserve 457 79, 546-7 Palace of Queen Elizabeth Olympic St Helens Duver 250 accommodation 545 Holyroodhouse 770-1 Park 108 Titchwell Marsh 402 activities 548 palaces, see castles & Regent’s Park 100 Ness of Brodgar 948 climate 545 palaces Richmond Park 114 Nevis Range 913-14 food 545 Papa Westray 953 Roath Park 657-8 New Abbey 829 highlights 546-7 Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri 59, Royal Botanic Garden, 728-43 Edinburgh 778 New Forest 243-9 travel seasons 545 Parkmill 676 Salutation Gardens 166 New Lanark 820-1 northwest Scotland 887, parks & gardens Slopes 481 Newark-on-Trent 458-9 888-9, 897. 19 Aberglasney St James’s Park 76 Newcastle United Football accommodation 887, 916 Gardens 676 Stowe Gardens 222 Club 629 climate 887 Alnwick Garden 642 Trebah Garden 352 Newcastle-upon-Tyne 58, food 887 Alum Chine 253 Tremenheere Sculpture 621-9, 622-3 highlights 888 Batsford Arboretum 211 Garden 348 Newport 694-5 travel seasons 887 Beverley Westwood 544 Tresco Abbey Garden 361 Newquay 339-41, 600 Norwich 394-8, 395 Bodnant Garden 752 Williamson Park & newspapers 1015 Notting Hill Carnival Botanic Garden (Oxford) Tropical Butterfly Newton 575 118, 30 192-3 House 574 Newton, Isaac 463 Nottingham 452-8, 454 Bridge End Gardens Windsor Great Park 227 Newtonmore 902-3 Nottinghamshire 452-9 383-4 Winter Gardens 540 Norfolk 394-404 Bute Park 655 passports 1025 Norfolk Broads 400-1, 391 O Bwlch Nant yr Arian 718 Peak District 479-90, 480 North Coast 500 26, 923 Cambridge University Oban 868-70 Peebles 821-2 North Mull 873-4 Botanic Garden 374 Okehampton 304-5 Peel 579 North Uist 939 Castle Kennedy Old Trafford (Manchester Pembroke 684-5 North Wales 59, Gardens 832 United Museum & Tour) Pembrokeshire 18, 59, 651, 722-58, 723 Chalice Well & 555, 14 679-95, 652, 681, 18 accommodation 722 Gardens 330 opening hours 1019 accommodation 651 Chelsea Physic climate 722 climate 651 Orford 389-92 Garden 100 food 722 food 651 Orkney 941-53, 942 Clyne Gardens 674 highlights 723 highlights 652 Outer Hebrides 934-41, Cornwall 352 travel seasons 722 travel seasons 651 928 Downs, the 311 North Wales Borderlands Oxford 14, 57, 187, 189-200, travel within 684 724-7 Duncombe Park 192-3, 14 Gardens 515 walking tours 691, 691 North York Moors National accommodation 187, Pembrokeshire Coast Path Park 514-22, 516 Eden Project 352 196-7 682, 18, 649 North Yorkshire 58, Fell Foot Park 585 activities 195-6 Penarth 662 495-514 Fountains Abbey & climate 187 Studley Royal 514 Pendle Witch Way 575 drinking 198-9 Glendurgan Garden 352 Penfro 684-5 entertainment 199 Green Park 76 Penrith 616 food 187 Hampstead Heath 112 Pen-y-Fan 706 Map Pages 000 nightlife 198-9 Harlow Carr Botanical Penzance 348-50, 349 Photo Pages 000 shopping 199 Gardens 508 Perranporth 341-2 1047 Pickering 517-18 R Roman North Coast 500 26, Amphitheatre 561 923 Pitlochry 905-7 radio 1015 Roman Army Northumberland Coast planning, see also rafting, see kayaking, Museum 639 645, individual regions canoeing & rafting 645 Roman Baths 317-19, activities 42-6 railways, see heritage 7 Peak District 485, 485 budgeting 23 railways Roman Museum 156-8 school holidays 1020

calendar of events 31-5 Ramsey Island 688-9 Roman Painted House science museums INDEX 167-8 children, travel with 52-5 Ramsgate 164-5 At-Bristol 311 Roman Town House 258 first-time visitors 24-5 Ransome, Arthur 597, 611 Enginuity 443

Vindolanda Roman Fort  P-S Great Britain basics 22-3 red deer 278, Glasgow Science 20 & Museum 639 internet resources 23, 42 Centre 805  Red Lady 675 Yorkshire Museum Life Science itineraries 36-41 Regent’s Park 100 499-500 Centre 622-3 repeat visitors 26 religion 963, 966 Rosetta Stone 104, 104 Magna 540 travel seasons 22, Rhaeadr Gwy 709-10 Ross-on-Wye 436 31-5, 42 Museum of Science & Rhayader 709-10 Industry 549 plants 1008 Rosslyn Chapel 779, 780-1, Rhondda Valley 670 , National Space Plas Newydd 725, 727 780 781 Rhossili 677 Rousay 951-2 Centre 469 Plockton 926-7 Rhostyllen 725 Roy, Rob, see MacGregor, Science Museum 94-5 Plymouth 294-8, 295 Ribble Valley 574 Robert Thinktank 409 politics 962-3 Ribblesdale 526 Royal Botanic Garden Wellcome Collection 103 Polperro 356 Richard III 467, 469 (Edinburgh) 778 World Museum 565 Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Richmond 528-30 Royal Deeside 903-4 Scone Palace 850, Canal World Heritage 15 Rights of Way 43 royal family 27-8, 963 Site 725-6 Scotch Whisky Experience Royal Mile 771, , 766 pony trekking 276 River Stour 158, 166, 230 764-5 764, 765 Poole 254-6 River Thames 112, 110-11, Scotland 759-960, 760, 19 , Royal Observatory 109 population 963 110 111 food 48-9 Road to the Isles 914-15 rugby 659, 1010-11 Porlock 280 highlights 760 Robert the Bruce 971-2 Rugby 427-8 Port Charlotte 881-2 Scott, Sir Walter 994 Robin Hood’s Bay 522 Runnymede 227-8 Port Ellen 880-1 Scottish National Rock 337-9 Ruthin 724-5 Gallery 774-5 Port Erin 579 rock climbing 46 Rutland 472-3 Scottish National Gallery of Port Eynon 676-7 Cheddar Gorge 328 Rutland Water 472-3 Modern Art 775-6 Port Isaac 336-7 Dartmoor National Ryde 249-50 Scottish National Portrait Port St Mary 579 Park 300 Rye 170-3 Gallery 773 Porthgain 690-2 Exmoor National Scottish Parliament Porthmadog 743-4 Park 276 Building 769-70 Porthtowan 341-2 Peak District 479 S Scrabster 917-18 Portmeirion Village 743 Rutland Water 473 safety 43, 1020, 1027 sculpture 1000-2 Portree 931-2 Rogan, Simon 613 Saffron Walden 383-4 Sennen 347 Portsmouth 240-3, 241 Roman architecture 989 sailing 46, see also boating Settle 526 Plymouth 296 Postbridge 301-2 Roman Baths 317-18, 7 Shakespeare, William Rutland Water 472 90, 422-3, 1002, , Potter, Beatrix 595-6 Roman sites & museums 16 707-15 29, see also Salisbury 267-70, 268, 990 231 Pride festivals archaeological sites Salisbury Cathedral Shakespeare’s Globe 90, Brighton 179 Birdoswald Roman 267, 990 111, 111 London 118 Fort 639 Saltaire 534 Shakespeare’s School Room 26 Princetown 300-1 Brading Roman Villa 249 Sandringham 403 Sheffield 539-41 priories, see abbeys, Caerleon 666 Sandwich 165-6 priories & monasteries Chedworth Roman Villa Scafell Pike 603 Sherborne 265-6 Sherwood Forest 457 public holidays 1019-20 208-9 Scarborough 510-14, 512 Shetland 954-60, pubs 18, 18, see also Chesters Roman Fort & scenic drives 955 Museum 640 breweries, individual Borrowdale & shopping 29, see also Corinium Museum 202 individual locations locations Buttermere 609, 609 Dewa Roman Shrewsbury 437-40, 438 puddings 984, 985 Cotswolds 206-7, 207 Experience 561 Shropshire 437-52 Pumsaint 679 Dartmoor 303, 303 punting 374 Dolaucothi Gold Silbury Hill 274 Dover to Rye 170-7, 171 Mines 679 Sir Fynwy 665-8 Fife Coast 849, 849 Fishbourne Palace 185 Sir Gaerfyrddin 678-9 Loch Ness 897, Q Housesteads Roman Fort 897 Six Nations 659, 1011 Queensferry 796 & Museum 639 1048 Skara Brae 949 southwest England 57, St Non’s Bay 688 Houses of skiing 46 232-362, 234-5 St Paul’s Cathedral 85-6 Parliament 71-2 Skipton 522-4 accommodation 232 Staffa 876 Inns of Court 87 Skirrid 701 activities 233 428-9 John Rylands Sky Garden 26 climate 232 Stair Hole Bay 257 Library 552 Kedleston Hall 476 Skye 12, 927-34, 928, 12 food 232 Stamford 464-5

INDEX INDEX Kelmscott Manor 201 Slaughters, the 209 highlights 234-5 stand-up paddleboarding Kentwell Hall 385 Sleat 930-1 travel seasons 232 Newquay 340 Kenwood 112 Smailholm Tower 825 travel within 233-6 Plymouth 296

S Southwold 393-4 Portland Harbour 262 Kielder Observatory 640  smoking 986  Kingston Lacy 256 snorkelling, see diving & sport 1009-12 Rutland Water 472 snorkelling sporting events, see stargazing 281, 700 Lavenham Guildhall 386 snowboarding 46 also arts festivals, stately homes, manors & Levens Hall 611 festivals & events, Snowdon 739-41, 741 historic buildings 15, 27, Little Hall 386 food & drink festivals, 990-1, see also castles Llanerchaeron 719 Snowdonia National Park literary festivals, music & palaces Lloyd’s of London 87 13, 59, 728-43, 741, festivals 30 St Mary Axe 87 London Dungeon 93 13, 731 Abergavenny Festival of Althorp House 467 soccer, see football Cycling 667 Longleat 273 Apsley House 77 Somerset 326-32 Bumps 375 Lord Leycester Aston Hall 413 Hospital 420 Somerset House 83, Cowes Week 249 Attingham Park 440 Manchester Town 110, 110 Grand National 568 Audley End House 383 Hall 552-3 Somerset Levels 332 Great North Run 624 Avebury Manor 274 Melford Hall 385 South Downs National Henley Royal Minster Lovell Hall 208 Park 175-6 Regatta 229 Bath Assembly Rooms 320 Mompesson House 269 South Harris 938-9 Highlands Games Beaulieu 244-5 Montacute House 333 South Mull 874 904, 34 Belton House 463 Nantclwyd y Dre 724 South Ronaldsay 947-8 London Marathon 32, 33 Blackwell House 584-5 Newstead Abbey 453 South Uist 939-40 Royal Ascot 224 Blickling Hall 397 No 10 Downing Street 77 59, 651, 652 Six Nations 659 Brantwood 597 Norman Keep & Castle accommodation 651 Three Peaks Yacht Race Museum 575 climate 651 733 Burghley House 464-5 Old Royal Naval College food 651 University Boat Race 115 Burlington Arcade 83 109 highlights 652 Virgin Money London Castle Drogo 302-4 Osborne House 249 travel seasons 651 Marathon 115 Castle Howard 506-7 Plas Mawr 750 south Yorkshire 58, 539-41 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Chatsworth House 489 Plas Newydd 757 southeast England 56, Championships 118 Coleton Fishacre 291 Prideaux Place 337 152-86, 154-5 World Bog Snorkelling Cotehele House 358 Queen’s House 109-12 accommodation 152 Championships 707-8 Cragside House, Garden Royal Exchange 87 activities 153 squares & Estate 640-1 Royal Hospital Chelsea climate 152 Covent Garden Piazza 81 Dinefwr 678-9 95-100 food 152 Piccadilly Circus 80 Dove Cottage 593-4 Royal Observatory 109 highlights 154-5 Trafalgar Square 80 Eastbridge Hospital 156 Rydal Mount 590-1 travel seasons 152 SS Great Britain 309-10 428 Shakespeare’s Globe 90, travel to/from 153 St Agnes 362 Erddig 725 111, 111 travel within 153 St Albans 224 Felbrigg Hall 398 Shugborough 429 Southend-on-Sea 384-5 St Andrews 21, 842-7, 844, 21 Forde Abbey 265 Snowshill Manor & southern Scotland 60, 797, Garden 213 St Andrews Old Course 843 Guildhall 86-7 798-9 Somerset House 83, St Bartholomew-the- Haddon Hall 489 accommodation 797, 831 110, 110 Great 87 Hardwick Hall 478 climate 797 Spencer House 77 St Davids 686-90, 687 Highgrove 215 food 797 St George’s Hall 566 St Giles Cathedral 767-8 Hill Top 595-6 highlights 798-9 St John’s Gate 107 St Ives 342-6, 344 Holker Hall 612 travel seasons 797 St Mary’s Guildhall 419 St Just 346-7 Holkham Hall Southwell 458 Stoneleigh Abbey 421-2 St Margaret’s Bay 169 & Estate 402 Stourhead 272 St Martin’s 361-2 Hospital of St Cross 238 Strawberry Hill 114 St Mary’s 359-60 Houghton Hall 404 Sulgrave Manor 466 Map Pages 000 St Michael’s Mount 351 House Mill 108 Supreme Court 76 Photo Pages 000 1049 Townend 590 T Coventry Transport Wales 649-756, 650 Museum 418 Tretower Court & Castle Tarbert 878, 937-8 food 49 702 London Transport highlights 650 Tarn Hows 595, 15 Tyntesfield House 314 Museum 81 Tarr Steps 277-8 history 966, 968, 969 Waddesdon Manor 223 National Railway Tate Britain 91 walking 42-4, 601, see also Wilton House 269 Museum 497-9 hiking Tate Modern 90, 111, 111 Winchester College Newark Air Museum 459 Ambleside 591 INDEX taxis 1027 237-8 Traquair House 823 Bakewell 489 telephone services Woburn Abbey 222 travel seasons 22, 42, 22 Beddgelert 742 22, 1020

Wollaton Hall 453 travel to/from Great Buxton 483  S-W Tenby 681-4 Britain 1023-4 Woodchester Mansion Cader Idris 728  tennis 1012 travel within Great Britain 216-17 Cambridge 375 Thames 112, 110-11, 1024-8 Woolsthorpe Manor 463 Canterbury 158 110, 111 Trefdraeth 694-5 Wordsworth House 603 Ceredigion 720 Thames Valley 225-9 trekking, see walking Steephill Cove 251-2 Chester 561 Thatcher, Margaret 980 Tresco 360-1 Stirling 60, 833, Cotswolds 189 836-42, 837 theatre 1002, see also Trooping the Colour 32, 33 individual locations Dartmoor National accommodation 833 Trossachs 863-8 theme parks Park 298-9, 299 climate 833 Trotternish 933-4 Alton Towers 427 East Anglia 366 food 833 Troutbeck 590 Blackgang Chine 250-1 Edale 487 highlights 834 Truro 354-5 Blackpool Pleasure Edinburgh 779, 782 travel seasons 833 tunnels 284 Beach 572 Exmoor National Stirling Castle 836, , TV 1012, 1015 838-9 Dreamland 162 Park 276-7, 299 838, 839 Tyddewi 686-90, 687 Heights of Abraham 477 Fowey 356 Stoke Bruerne 466-7 Tyne bridges 621 Thomas, Dylan 35, 671, Glasgow 807, 809 Stoke-on-Trent 430 Tynemouth 629-30 995, 231 Glyndŵr’s Way 713 Stone of Destiny 772 Three Peaks 526 Great Malvern 432 Stonehenge 10, 270-2, 965, Thurso 917-18 U Haworth 538 271, 10 time 1020 Uffington White Horse 202 Helvellyn 610 Stornoway 935-6 Tintagel 335-6 Uley 216-17 Herefordshire 433-4 Stourhead 272 Tintern Abbey 666 Ullapool 922-4 Isle of Man 576 Stow-on-the-Wold 209-10 T in the Park 840 Ullswater 608-9 Isle of Skye 927-8 Stranraer 832 tipping 25, 1019 Unesco World Heritage Isle of Wight 247 Stratford-upon-Avon 16, Tiree Sites, see World Lake District 592 422-7, 424-5, 16, 231 871 Heritage Sites Langdale 599 Stromness 949-50 Tobermory 872-3 universities 1017 Lincoln 460 Suffolk 385-94 toilets 53, 1021 Cambridge 367-74 Lincolnshire 459 Sumburgh 958-9 Tolkien, JRR 196 Tongue 919 Oxford 190-5 Loch Lomond 863 surfing 45, 601, 600 Torquay 288-90 Unst 960 long-distance trails 44 Abersoch 745 Torridon 925-6 Up Helly Aa 959 Lyme Regis 264 Bournemouth 253 Totnes 292-3 Malham Cove 525 Bude 334 tourist information Malvern Hills 433 Croyde 305 V 1021, 1026 New Forest 243 Isle of Wight 247 vacations 1019-20 tours, see driving tours, Norfolk Broads 401 Newquay 339-40, 600 Vale of the White scenic drives, walking Horse 201-2 northeast England 548, Scarborough 511 tours, individual 620 V&A Museum of Snowdonia National locations Design 852 northwestern Park 737 Tower Bridge 84-5 Scotland 904 Ventnor 250-1 southwest England 233 Tower of London 75, 83-4, Oxford 196 Victoria & Albert Surrey 186 88-9, 74, 88-9 Museum 94, 96-7, Peak District 480-1 Sutton Hoo 388 train stations 1028 96, 97 Pembrokeshire Coast train travel 1024, 1027-8, Swansea 670-4, 672 Victoria, Queen 977-8 Path 682 swimming see also heritage Portsmouth 242 railways, individual Victoria Tunnel 623 Cambridge 374 Rights of Way 43 locations villages 28 London 115 safety 43 Borders Railway 26 visas 1022 Penzance 348 Sherbourne 266 transport museums Plymouth 296 Shrewsbury 439 Cloverlands Model Car W Tunnelsbeaches 306 Museum 711 Shropshire 437 Symonds Yat 221 Waddesdon 222-4 Snowdon 739-40 1050 walking continued whisky 20, 987, see also Windsor 225-9, 226 Yell 959 southeast England 153 distilleries Windsor Castle 75, 225-7, Ynys Dewi 688-9 southwest England 233 Scotch Whisky 74-5 Ynys Môn 755-8 Experience 766 Ullswater 610 windsurfing 45 York 19, 496-506, 498-9 Valley of the Rocks 281 Whitby 518-22, 520 Isle of Wight 247 York City Art Gallery 26 White Cliffs of Dover Wasdale 603 Poole Harbour 255 York Minster 496-7, 19

INDEX INDEX 169-70 York 501 Portland Harbour 262 Yorkshire 19, 58, 491-544, Whitewell 575 Yorkshire 495 Rutland Water 472 492-3, 19 Whithorn 831-2 walking tours wineries accommodation 491

W-Z Whitstable 161-2  Bath 323, 323 Biddenden Vineyards 167 climate 491 Wick 916-17 Camel Valley food 491 Cambridge 373, 373  Widecombe-in-the-Moor Vineyard 334 highlights 492 Edinburgh 786-7, 787 302 Chapel Down Vinery 167 travel seasons 491 London 82, 82 Wigtown 831 Kerry Vale Vineyard 447 travel to/from 495 Pembrokeshire 691, 691 wildlife 1004, 1006-8 Sharpham Wine & travel within 495 Snowdon 741, 741 books 1003, 1006 Cheese 292 Yorkshire Dales National Walpole, Sir Robert 976 wildlife centres, see also St Martin’s Vineyard 361 Park 522-30, war museums, see military bird parks & avaries, 524 wishing steps (Chester) Yr Wyddfa 739-40 & war museums national parks & 559 forests, nature reserves Ysgyryd Fawr 701 Wars of the Roses 972 Woburn 222 Braunton Burrows 305 Warwick 419-21, 420 Woodstock 200-1 Warwickshire 418-28 Cornish Seal Sanctuary 350 Worcester 430-2 Z Wasdale 602-3 Zennor 346-7 Gairloch Marine Wildlife Worcestershire 430-3 waterfalls Centre & Cruises 924 Wordsworth, William 581, ziplining 26 Golitha Falls 358 Holkham National 590-1, 603 Bangor 747 Gowbarrow Park & Aira Nature Reserve 402 World Heritage Sites Betws-y-Coed 734 Force 610 Loch of the Lowes Blenheim Palace 201 Blaenau Ffestiniog 733 Hardraw Force 527 Wildlife Centre 905 Fountains Abbey & Peebles 821 Lodore Falls 607 Wild Futures Monkey Studley Royal 514 zoos, see also bird parks & Lydford Gorge 304 Sanctuary 357 Ironbridge Gorge 440-4 avaries, nature centres, Swallow Falls 736 wildlife-watching Jurassic Coast 260 wildlife reserves weather 22, 31-5, 43, Aberdeen 856 Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Bristol Zoo Gardens 1016, 22 Cardigan Bay 720, 721 Canal World Heritage 311-12 weights 1015 Exmoor National Park Site 725 Cotswold Farm Park 210 Wells 327-9 278 Saltaire 534 Cotswold Wildlife Wells-next-the-Sea 401-2 Inverness 890 Worms Head 677 Park 205 Welshpool 712-13 Jura 882 WWI 978 Folly Farm 680 West Sussex 183-6 Loch Ness 896 WWII 979 Living Coasts 288 West Wight 252 St Davids 686 Longleat 273 Newquay Zoo 339 West Yorkshire 58, 530-9 William of Orange 975 Y Ouseburn Farm 623 Westray 952-3 William the Conqueror 969 Y Gelli Gandryll 698-701 Paignton Zoo 288 Weymouth 261-2 Wiltshire 266-7 Y Gŵyr 675-6 whale-watching Winchcombe 214-15 South Lakes Safari Y Mwmbwls 674-5 Zoo 613 Central Scotland 875 Winchester 236-40, 237 Y Mynyddoedd Duon 701-2 Woburn Safari Park 222 Whitby 518 Windermere 584-90, 587 Y Trallwng 712-13 ZSL London Zoo 100-1

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 1051 NOTES 1052 NOTES  1053 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1054

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Belinda Dixon Cambridge & East Anglia, Bath & Southwest England Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) travelling, research- ing and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. See her VideoBlog posts at https://belindadixon.com

Peter Dragicevich Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales; Brecon Beacons & Mid-Wales; Snowdonia & North Wales After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. During the past decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s hardly ever there.

Damian Harper London Damian has been working largely full time as a travel writer (and translator) since 1997 and has also written for National Geographic Traveler, Dorling Kindersley (Where To Go When: Great Britain & ; The Road Less Travelled), Fodor’s (London), , The Daily Telegraph, Ab- beville Press (Celestial Realm: The Yellow Mountains of China), Lexean, Fre- quent Traveller, China Ethos and various other magazines and newspapers.

Catherine Le Nevez Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches; Newcastle & Northeast England Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries. She recommends travelling without any expectations.

Hugh McNaughtan Brecon Beacons & Mid-Wales; Snowdonia & North Wales A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel intro a full-time thing. A long-time castle tragic with an abiding love of Britain’s Celtic extremities, he jumped at the chance to explore Wales, from the Cambrian Mountains to the tip of Anglesey. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field....

Isabella Noble Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Isabella’s travels have taken her across India, Southeast Asia, Australia, North America and Europe. She has lived in southern Spain and Melbourne, though she’s now (loosely) based in London.

Andy Symington Glasgow & Southern Scotland; Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Is- lands Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and oth- er publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Yorkshire; Edinburgh; Glasgow & Southern Scotland; Stirling & Central Scot- land; Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Islands Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in , including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley. Neil also wrote Plan, Understand and Survival guide.

Oliver Berry Bath & Southwest England; the Lake District & Cumbria Oliver is a writer and photographer based in Cornwall. His first trip abroad was to the south of France, aged two. Since then he’s travelled to Corsica, New Zealand, the South Pacific and midwestern USA.

Fionn Davenport Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has been writing about his native country for more than two decades. He was pushed to travel in order to escape Dublin’s comfortable stasis and by the prom- ise of adventure, and this has cemented his belief that Ireland remains his fa- vourite place to visit, if not always live in. These days, he has a weekly commute home to Dublin, from Manchester, where he lives with his partner, Laura, and their car, Trevor. In Dublin he presents Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1 and writes travel features for a host of publications, including the Irish Times.

Marc Di Duca Canterbury & Southeast England A travel author for the past decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

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