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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1032 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Marc Di Duca Big thanks to all who helped me throughout the Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Southeast, especially staff at the tourist offices edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful in Sandwich, Eastbourne and Rye. Thanks also to advice and interesting anecdotes: my wife, Tanya, and sons Taras and Kirill for ac- Charlie Morgan, Ilse Adema, Jade Lao, Jenn Nelson, companying me on some long days of research. Jill Edwards, Lynn Chong, Mayhew Lester, Robert Durenkamp, Rolf Wrelf Belinda Dixon Researching a place is a real joint effort. It’s the result of B&B, bar and hotel staff who share WRITER THANKS their recommendations; tourist office workers Oliver Berry who share their knowledge; random strangers Thanks to James Smart for giving me the gig who share their time and countless kindnesses. and for guidance and support along the way; to Huge thanks to all. And again to James Smart Kate Ardron, Justin Foulkes, Dave Jones, Kate for the gig, LP’s behind the scenes teams, and Whinney, Grace Hickock and Sarah Fox for their fellow authors for humour, wisdom and travel- tips and suggestions; to the team at Wild Card lers’ tales. PR and Watergate Bay for north coast adven- tures; and to Susie and Gracie Berry as always Peter Dragicevich for keeping the home fires burning. Special It’s always a joy to meet up with friends on thanks to Rosie Hillier for accompanying me on the road, so many thanks to Tim Benzie, Rob my southwest adventures and for never failing Carpenter, Catherine Cole, Matt Swaine, and to make me smile. Kerri and Finn Tyler for your company and good cheer. Fionn Davenport A big thanks to all my new friends in Manches- Damian Harper ter for their sterling efforts in getting up to Gratitude to all those people who offered assis- speed with an ever-changing city. Thanks to tance along the way and came up with tips and Laura for accompanying me on my research ideas: Fiona Jenkins, James Munroe, Jon Tyler, trips and to the editors at Lonely Planet who Daisy Harper, Amy Williams, Arlene Fraser, helped put shape on my scratchings. Sarah Andrews, Timothy Benjamin and Emma 1033 Rosalind. Thanks (and apologies) to anyone Andy Symington I may have overlooked. I owe thanks to many, but first to Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland for being great Catherine Le Nevez friends and superb hosts, to Juliette and Cheers first and foremost to Julian, and to David Paton for their perpetual generosity all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism and warm welcome and to my father for the professionals who provided insights, inspira- whisky and much more. Gratitude goes BEHIND THE SCENES tion and good times, especially to Ade also to Morwynne Carlow, Riika Åkerlind Andrews. Huge thanks too to Destination and numerous helpful folk met along the way. Editor James Smart, Senior Cartographer Big thanks also go to co-author Neil Wilson, Mark Griffiths and everyone at LP. As ever, editor James Smart and the LP team. merci encore to my parents, brother, belle- sœur and neveu. Hugh McNaughtan All possible thanks to Peter Dragicevich for ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS his guidance on this project, to my editor Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, James Smart, to the kind people I met in Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Wales and, most importantly, to Tasmin, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Maise and Willa. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Isabella Noble Cheers to everyone who helped out on the Cover photograph: Walker on the South West road. Big thanks to my talented co-authors, Coast Path, Zennor Head, Cornwall, England. especially fellow Oxbridger Belinda Dixon Justin Foulkes/4Corners © for the ‘healthy’ competition. Thanks also to Ellie, Cathy, Rose and David in the Cotswolds; Illustrations: pp88-9 (Tower of London), Becky, Doug, Ali and Christine in Oxford; and pp636-7 (Hadrian’s Wall), pp764-5 (Royal Elly for perfect Michelin-starred dining Mile), pp780-1 (Rosslyn Chapel), pp838-9 company. Extra special thanks to my favour- (Stirling Castle) by Javier Zarracina; pp110-11 ite research assistants Sarah, Jack, Dan, (River Thames) by Javier Zarracina and Andrew and Paps. Michael Weldon. Destination Editor James Kellie Langdon, Kristin Odijk, THIS BOOK Smart Lauren O’Connell, Rosie This 12th edition of Lonely Product Editors Kate Nicholson, Fionnuala Twomey, Planet’s Great Britain guide- Chapman, Elizabeth Jones, Simon Williamson book was researched and Anne Mason, Amanda Assisting Cartographers written by Neil Wilson, Oliver Williamson Valentina Kremenchutskaya Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Senior Cartographer Mark Assisting Book Designer Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Griffiths Wibowo Rusli Dragicevich, Damian Harper, Book Designer Virginia Cover Researcher Naomi Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh Mc- Moreno Parker Naughtan, Isabella Noble and Judith Cheree Broughton, Andy Symington. They, and Assisting Editors Thanks to Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Joel Cotterell, Liz Heynes, Kate Anna Kaminski, also worked Michelle Bennett, Melanie Mathews, Clara Monitto, Jenna on the previous edition. Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Paul Myers, Susan Paterson, Kirsten This guidebook was produced Harding, Victoria Harrison, Rawlings, Victoria Smith by the following: Gabby Innes, Kate James, 1034 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1035 Index A Westminster Abbey 70-1 Deep, the 542 BALTIC – Centre for Contemporary Art abbeys, priories & Whitby Abbey 518 Ilfracombe Aquarium 306 623-4 monasteries 27, see Whithorm Priory 931-2 Lakes Aquarium 585 also churches & Aberaeron 719 London Sea Life Barbara Hepworth Museum 342 cathedrals Aberdaron 746 Aquarium 93 Barber Institute of Fine Abbey Gardens 387 Aberdeen 856-61, 858-9 National Marine Aquarium 295-6 Arts 412 Arbroath Abbey 855 Aberdeenshire 855-61 National Sea Life Beatrix Potter Gallery 595 Bath Abbey 319-20 Abergavenny 666-8 Centre 410 Birmingham Museum & Battle Abbey 172 Abergavenny Food Sea Life 261 Art Gallery 409 Cartmel Priory 613 Festival 35. 667 Sea Life Sanctuary 510 Brighton Museum & Art Dryburgh Abbey 823 Abergwaun 692-4 Gallery 177-9 St Andrews Aquarium 845 Dunfermline Abbey & Aberhonddu 703-5, 704 Bristol Museum & Art Arberth 685-6 Palace 851 Aberlour 862-3 Gallery 311 Arbroath 855 Forde Abbey 265 Abermaw 732-3 Christ Church Picture ArcelorMittal Orbit 108 Fountains Abbey & Abersoch 745-6 Gallery 195 Studley Royal 514 archaeological sites, see Abertawe 670-4 Ferens Art Gallery 542 Glastonbury Abbey 330-1 also Roman sites & Aberteifi 719-21 Gallery of Modern Great Malvern Priory 432 museums Art 800-1 Aberystwyth 715-19, 717 Hailes Abbey 214 Avebury Stone Circle 274 Graves Gallery 540 accommodation 1014-17 Hexham Abbey 638 Belas Knap Long Hastings Museum & Art with children 55 Barrow 214 Iona Abbey 875 Gallery 173 activities 28-9, 31-5, 42-6, Maeshowe 948 Jedburgh Abbey 824 Hayward Gallery 93 see also individual Maiden Castle 258 Kelso Abbey 825 Hepworth Wakefield 536 activities Ness of Brodgar 948 Kirkham Priory 507 Herbert Art Gallery & air travel 1023, 1024-5 Old Sarum 269 Kirkstall Abbey 532 Museum 419 Albert Dock 566-7 Pentre Ifan 695 Lacock Abbey 273 Holburne Museum 321 Aldeburgh 392-3 Silbury Hill 274 Lindisfarne Priory 646 Hunterian Art Gallery 807 Alloway 826-7 Skara Brae 949 Llanthony Priory 701 Ikon Gallery 409-10 Alnwick 642-3 Stonehenge 10, 270-2, Melrose Abbey 822 Jerwood Gallery 173 Alnwick Castle 642, 390 965, 271, 10 Newstead Abbey 453 Kelvingrove Art Gallery Ambleside 590-3 Sutton Hoo 388 Penmon Priory 756 805-6, 28, 39 amusement parks Uley Bury 216 Priory Church 574 Laing Art Gallery 622 Alton Towers 427 West Kennet Long Rievaulx Abbey 515 Laurel & Hardy Blackgang Chine 250-1 Barrow 274-5 Museum 613 Shrewsbury Abbey 438 Blackpool Pleasure Beach architecture 805, 988-92, Leeds Art Gallery 531-2 St Dogmaels Abbey 720 572 988, 990, 991 Manchester Art Gallery St Michael’s Mount 351 Dreamland 162 area codes 23, 1020 549-50 St Nicholas Priory 285 Heights of Abraham 477 Argyllshire 868-83 Manx Museum & National Sweetheart Abbey 829 Legendary Land’s End 347 Arisaig 914 Art Gallery 577-8 Tintern Abbey 666 Anglo-Irish War 978 Arlington Row 204 Market House 436 Tynemouth Priory 629 Angus 851-2 Armadale 930-1 MOMA Machynlleth 713-14 Valle Crucis Abbey 726 Anstruther 848, 850 Arnol 936-7 National Gallery 80-1 Wenlock Priory 444-5 Applecross 926 Arran 883-6, 883 National Portrait aquariums art galleries & museums 29 Gallery 81 Blue Planet Aquarium 561 Aberdeen Art Gallery 856 New Walk Museum & Art Gallery 469 Map Pages 000 Blue Reef Aquarium 339 Abbot Hall Art Gallery 611 Nottingham Photo Pages 000 Bristol Aquarium 311 Arnolfini 311 Contemporary 453 1036 art galleries & museums Stornoway 935 shopping 325-6 Bwlch Nant yr Arian 718 continued Stromness 949 sights 317-21 Calf of Man 579 Pallant House Gallery arts festivals 29, see nightlife 325 Cotswold Falconry 184-5 also festivals & events.