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Keeping the Spirit Alive ISSN 0816-6315 A contact magazine covering 6 continents Vol. 21 No. 3 January - March, 2006 Keeping the Spirit Alive 1 A RHODIE IN ANTARCTICA By Lewis Walter, Fish Hoek. In the bad old days of uncontrolled whaling in Antarctica, the hardened whalers had a saying “Beyond 40 degrees South there is no law. Beyond 50 degrees South there is no God”. Today some little ships venture into the icy waters far beyond these limits, one of them being a former Russian research vessel, the Grigoriy Mikheev. Laying claim to Antarctica In the afternoon of the 24th we reached Vernadsky Island where we visited the Ukranian research station with its most hospitable staff. After a tour of the station, I handed them the Rhodesian flag which is now proudly displayed in their bar. At 65°15’ South/64°16’ West this is possibly the furthest South a Rhodesian flag has ever been. It bears the Flame Lily Foundation e-mail address, and perhaps some other wandering Rhodie will see it one day and send a message. Among other mementoes in the bar is a fine collection of bras, kindly donated by passing lady visitors amidst much cheering. One of the bras now has a Zimbabwe $500 note tucked into it! The Grogoriy Mikheev Weighing only 2000 tons, and with 46 passengers on board, she left the Argentinian port of Ushaia, near Cape Horn, on 19 December 2005 and headed down the Beagle Channel and into the Drake Passage. This is renowned as one of the world’s roughest stretches of ocean, and it lived up to its reputation with a Force 8 Gale and huge seas which had many of the passengers and even some of the crew seasick. After a day and night of this, we reached calmer Antarctic waters and had our first sighting of the South Shetland Islands and icebergs. At more than 60 degrees South we were well within the “Godless” world of the old whalers. Our landing by rubber Zodiac on one of the islands was the first of many during the next ten days, and we were greeted by thousands of chinstrap and gentoo penguins, many with eggs or baby chicks. Antarctic skuas prowled around hungrily, occasionally snatching an unguarded chick. As we sailed further South the scenery became more dramatic, with magnificent icebergs and towering volcanic peaks draped in snow and ice. I had always thought icebergs were snowy white, but in fact most are beautiful shades of blue and green, in fantastic shapes. We had close-up views of crabeater seals, beautiful amiable-looking creatures rather like oversized Golden Labradors, Congratulated after handing over the flag at the Ukranian base, Vernadsky Weddell seals, and even some leopard seals, strange beasts with Christmas Eve dinner took the form of a braaivleis on the after deck evil reputations and almost serpent-like heads. It was one of these of the ship, and was very well done, even though they called it a which chased, and very nearly caught, a member of Shackleton’s ill- barbecue. While we were eating, the ship was nudged by a passing fated Antarctic Expedition. iceberg – surely one of the strangest accompaniments to a braai. The passengers were soon getting to know each other and their On Christmas morning we turned North back up the Lemaire countries of origin. There were some from the Netherlands, Germany, Channel and in the afternoon went ashore on the little island known Switzerland, Austria, America, Britain and elsewhere. I was the only as Port Lockroy. A British base was established here in 1942 as part Rhodesian/South African. One thing all had in common was an of Operation Tabarin to monitor enemy activities, and it is now used interest in the environment, and this promoted a wonderful spirit on for the study of gentoo penguins. The old wartime buildings and board. There were teachers, writers, doctors, people from all walks furnishings have been restored as a museum under the auspices of of life-among them an intrepid cycling duo Roosje and Kor who, after the U.K. Antarctic Heritage Trust and the penguins wander everywhere, adding Antarctica to their list, had cycled on every continent on earth. completely at ease with their human neighbours and visitors. On 23 December we landed on the Antarctic mainland at 64°54’ Christmas Dinner was served in a magnificent setting of glaciers, South/62°52’ East. Here I raised a little Rhodesian flag, but our volcanic peaks and icebergs, and next morning we had our first close claim to the territory will probably not be recognised! The scenery sighting of humpback whales. We were soon back in the Zodiacs, was breathtaking, with massive glaciers every now and then “calving” and able to spend some time watching at close quarters these huge, icebergs into the sea with thunderous roars. Next day we entered the slow-moving creatures feeding on krill. Lemaire Channel, curiously enough named after a Congo explorer. Continuing Northward, we eventually reached the Drake Passage This is an area of soaring volcanic peaks, glaciers and huge icebergs again, comparatively calm this time, and arrived back in Ushuaia on among which we were able to cruise in the Zodiacs. 29 December, having covered a distance of 2669 kilometres or 1658 statute miles. Truly a voyage of a lifetime. 2 Look & Listen Welcome… Well how quickly the years come and go and 2006 is almost two months old as I write this. We are endeavouring to get this magazine out a little early as it all has a ripple effect throughout the year depending on how quick I am to gather all of the bits and pieces together. I plan to have the April to June magazine out by the beginning of June so that it will get to you in good time before the big braai in the UK which we hope to be attending this year. It has been many years Cover picture: Painting by Dinah BEATON titled “Mvuradonha- since we have done so and feel that it is tiime to promote the magazine Zambezi Escarpment. See this and more on her website at at this event. www.dinahbeaton.co.zw The Darwin Days book has proven to be a highlight of my past year and I would encourage all communities to think about putting together Contents an unofficial publication about their Rhodesian communities. There are so many stories that should be told and it is up to us to record A Rhodie in Antarctica 2 them. The Darwin Days effort has resulted in a worldwide community Look and Listen 3 of people from Mount Darwin and Centenary East and a four page RWAF Report 4 broadsheet that is sent out quarterly. Our sense of community has been enriched by this effort and it has been a very rewarding exercise. 1000 Club Report 4 So come on Mtepatepa, Sinoia, Banket, Lowveld, Eastern Highlands, Bush Telegraph 5 Fort Victoria etc.-get your thinking caps on and get the stories recorded. Our postal rates have increased markedly since the last magazine Daktari 9 was mailed out and I am appealing to you as always to let us know RWAF July Braai 10 your change of address and if you are not renewing. Also we need new members to help offset the new rates. Our postage rates for the A Rhodesian Children’s Prayer 10 magazine increased by 15% which in real terms means that the Zimbabwe Public Service Pensions 10 price of everything we do has increased. Thus the real cost of a magazine should be UKP1.80 more per subscription. Our rates as Vulcan Bomber over Hartley 11 promised will not change this year, even though the postal increases Those Damn Rhodesians 11 were announced after the last magazine was at print. We will review Zimbabwe Pensions Disaster 12 the subscription rates at the end of this year. We respect the limited funds many of you work with and our only criteria is that the magazine Winds of Destruction 12 remain able to pay for itself. I cannot fund it on a teacher’s salary Northern Rhodesia Report 13 while maintaining a home for Annette, Peter and Gareth. Thank you to everyone who sent us donations over the past year. Zimbabwe Roundup 14 We are deeply indebted to you and I cannot express enough gratitude Rhodesia Herald 16 for your generosity. You keep the magazine afloat and make it possible for us to make periodic donations to Rhodesian based charities and Missionary Life Under Lobengula 17 to provide support for all Rhodesian assistance organisations. I Col. Ken Harvey 19 cannot write to everyone of you and I wish I could, but my teaching job does not allow for that sort of time, so please forgive me. Thanks to Derek Hudson 20 all of you who have supported this magazine with donations and Association Roundup 20 especially the donations to the Flame Lily Foundation to aid our Common Sense 24 pensioners. On the subject of Rhodesian charities please be aware of the 7 Squadron to the Rescue 24 plethora of organisations that are out there that aid and assist Classifieds 25 Zimbabweans and Rhodesians. There are a few that have stood the test of time and I urge you to work with these organisations so as to Contact 28 not split our precious funds. If all organisations worked together for Subscriptions 31 the betterment of all Rhodesians and Zimbabweans (pensioners especially) we could accomplish many times what is accomplished. A Mystery from Geoff 32 I urge all Rhodesian related organisations to find it within their hearts Ken’s Story 32 to cooperate with their fellow organisations across the world.
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