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Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
The Journal of the Fell & Rock Climbing Club
THE JOURNAL OF THE FELL & ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT Edited by W. G. STEVENS No. 47 VOLUME XVI (No. Ill) Published bt THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1953 CONTENTS PAGE The Mount Everest Expedition of 1953 ... Peter Lloyd 215 The Days of our Youth ... ... ...Graham Wilson 217 Middle Alps for Middle Years Dorothy E. Pilley Richards 225 Birkness ... ... ... ... F. H. F. Simpson 237 Return to the Himalaya ... T. H. Tilly and /. A. ]ac\son 242 A Little More than a Walk ... ... Arthur Robinson 253 Sarmiento and So On ... ... D. H. Maling 259 Inside Information ... ... ... A. H. Griffin 269 A Pennine Farm ... ... ... ... Walter Annis 275 Bicycle Mountaineering ... ... Donald Atkinson 278 Climbs Old and New A. R. Dolphin 284 Kinlochewe, June, 1952 R. T. Wilson 293 In Memoriam ... ... ... ... ... ... 296 E. H. P. Scantlebury O. J. Slater G. S. Bower G. R. West J. C. Woodsend The Year with the Club Muriel Files 303 Annual Dinner, 1952 A. H. Griffin 307 'The President, 1952-53 ' John Hirst 310 Editor's Notes ... ... ... ... ... ... 311 Correspondence ... ... ... ... ... ... 315 London Section, 1952 316 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... 318 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 319 THE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION OF 1953 — AN APPRECIATION Peter Lloyd Everest has been climbed and the great adventure which was started in 1921 has at last been completed. No climber can fail to have been thrilled by the event, which has now been acclaimed by the nation as a whole and honoured by the Sovereign, and to the Fell and Rock Club with its long association with Everest expeditions there is especial reason for pride and joy in the achievement. -
One Hundred Years Ago C. A. Russell
88 Piz Bernilla, Ph Scerscell and Piz Roseg (Photo: Swiss atiollal TOl/rist Office) One hundred years ago (with extracts from the 'Alpine Journal') c. A. Russell The weather experienced in many parts of rhe Alps during rhe early months of 1877 was, to say the least, inhospitable. Long unsettled periods alternated with spells of extreme cold and biting winds; in the vicinity of St Morirz very low temperatures were recorded during January. One member of the Alpine Club able to make numerous high-level excur sions during the winter months in more agreeable conditions was D. W. Freshfield, who explored the Maritime Alps and foothills while staying at Cannes. Writing later in the AlpilJe Journal Freshfield recalled his _experiences in the coastal mountains, including an ascent above Grasse. 'A few steps to rhe right and I was on top of the Cheiron, under the lee of a big ruined signal, erected, no doubt, for trigonometrical purposes. It was late in the afternoon, and the sun was low in the western heavens. A wilder view I had never seen even from the greatest heights. The sky was already deepening to a red winter sunset. Clouds or mountains threw here and there dark shadows across earth and sea. "Far our at ea Corsica burst out of the black waves like an island in flames, reflecting the sunset from all its snows. From the sea-level only its mountain- 213 89 AiguiJle oire de Pelllerey (P!JOIO: C. Douglas Mill/er) 214 ONE HU DRED YEARS AGO topS, and these by aid of refraction, overcome the curvature of the globe. -
U N T E R W E
Unterwegs MONTBLANC Niemand wundert sich im Hochgebirge über abschmelzende Gletscher und Steinschlag. Was seit einigen Jahren am Dach Europas zu beobachten ist, scheint allerdings aus dem Rahmen „normaler“ klimatischer und geologischer Veränderungen in den Alpen zu fal- len und ist in Umfang und Konsequenz nur wenigen bekannt. Warme Sommer und labile Gesteinsschichten setzen dem Montblanc-Massiv erheblich zu. Von ULRICH HIMMLER DER MONARCH WANKT Am 18. Januar 1997 löste ein Felssturz an der Basis der Im September des gleichen Jahres Brenvaflanke des Montblanc brach ein Großteil der Westwand der weiter unten eine verheerende Petit Dru mit solcher Wucht aus, daß der Eislawine aus, die bis ins Val Veni Felssturz noch im weit entfernten Zürich abstürzte und dort zwei Skifahrern das seismographisch gemessen werden Leben kostete. Zufällig konnte der konnte. Klettertouren zwischen der Passagier eines Sessellifts das Ereignis klassischen Magnoneroute und dem mit der Kamera festhalten. Bonattipfeiler sind jetzt lebensgefährlich. Mario Colonel Foto: 30 DAV Panorama Nr. 3/1999 Unterwegs MONTBLANC as Gebiet der Montblanc-Gruppe vom 10.bis 16.Februar 1998 begangen (ED+, Möglichkeit, vom Col Moore aus direkt ab- Tourenwünschen ihrer Klienten um. hat während der Saison 1998 6b,A3).Angesprochen auf die „Versuchung zusteigen und das Zentralcouloir von unten Systematisch bieten sie Gipfel an,die früher durch eine Reihe von Unfall- des Teufels“, antworteten sie sinngemäß: anzugehen,eine höllisch gefährliche Angele- nicht zur Diskussion standen:das Breithorn DDmeldungen von sich Reden ge- „Sicher war es ein Risiko,und sicher größer genheit. Der französische Extremalpinist im Wallis (sehr früher Aufbruch in Cour- macht. Meist bedingt durch schlechtes als bei anderen schwierigen Besteigungen. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
En Cévennes, Le Chemin De Saint-Guilhem
bulletin des Clubs alpins français d’Ile-de-France octobre décembre 2019 // numéro 249 // 5 euros Paris Chamonix randonnée pédestre En Cévennes, Le chemin de Saint-Guilhem À propos de l’érosion bellifontaine alpinisme Les 4000 des alpes ski de randonnée Récit d’un cycle d’initiation ISSN 1269-4339 www.clubalpin-idf.com Paris Chamonix//numéro 249//octobre décembre 2019 Rendez-vous Soirée Neige La soirée de lancement des activités hi- vernales aura lieu le jeudi 7 novembre à partir de 19h au 92 bis boulevard de Montparnasse 75014 Paris. À cette occasion, vous pourrez vous renseigner sur l'offre et l'organisation des sorties hivernales et rencontrer de nombreux encadrants des activités d'hiver (ski de montagne, ski de fond et randonnée nordique, raquettes à neiges, alpinisme hivernal et cascade de glace). s Foire au matériel de montagne Samedi 23 novembre dans les locaux du En route vers le Grand Mont d'Arêches (photo : Monique Rebiffé) club de 11h à 17h. Ski, raquettes, alpinisme, escalade, randonnée pédestre, marche nor- dique, trail... Achetez ou vendez à prix raison- Ski nordique en Laponie finlandaise (photo : Mouraret) nable du matériel de montagne, chaussures, chaussons d'escalade, sacs à dos, tentes, duvets, piolets, crampons, raquettes, skis, vêtements non démodés et propres. • Dépose du matériel à vendre : jeudi 21 novembre de 16h à 18h30 et vendredi 22 novembre de 16h à 19h30. Aucun dépôt ne sera accepté le jour de la vente. s Assemblée générale Mercredi 4 décembre 19h - Maison des Asso- ciations, 22 rue Deparcieux 75014 Paris. s Faire part Jocelyne Guéna « P'tite Jocelyne » vient de nous quitter soudainement, jeudi 15 août, à l’âge de 61 ans, sous le ciel du Mustang. -
Taternik 3-4 1965
http://pza.org.pl SPIS TREŚCI Oni wprowadzili nas w Tatry (Ryszard Ziemak) 73 „Polacy na szczytach świata" (Jacek Kolbuszewski) 74 Spitsbergen 1965. Wyprawa Koła Poz nańskiego (Ryszard W, Schramm). 77 Aiguille Verte w zimie (Jerzy Michal ski) • 83 Zima 1964/1965 w Tatrach 85 Porachunki z latem (Jerzy Jagodziński) 86 W najtrudniejszej ścianie Tatr (Kazi mierz Głazek) 89 Spotkanie UIAA na Hali Gąsienico wej (Bogdan Mac) 91 Szwajcaria — Polska (Jan Kowalczyk i Antoni Janik) 94 Lato wokół Mont Blanc (Janusz Kur- czab) . 95 Obóz letni w Chamonix 1965 (Jerzy Warteresiewicz) 93 Na stażu w ENSA, 1965 (Maciej Popko) 99 W górach Grecji (Maciej Kozłowski) 100 Casus Gliwice (Józef Nyka) 101 Alpiniści angielscy w Tatrach (Andrzej Kuś) 102 Zginął Lionel Terray (Andrzej Pacz kowski) 105 Problemy w Elbsandsteingebirge (Józef Nyka) 106 Dr Kazimierz Saysse-Tobiczyk, naj młodszy ze starszych panów (Adam Chowański) 107 Drobiazgi historyczne 111 Taternictwo jaskiniowe 112 Skalne drogi w Tatrach 114 Nowe drogi w Dolomitach 120 Itineraria alpejskie 122 Narciarstwo wysokogórskie 123 Karta żałobna 124 Z życia Klubu Wysokogórskiego . 126 Z piśmiennictwa 129 Notatki, ciekawostki 130 Sprostowania i uzupełnienia 134 Przednia okładka: Członek GOPR, Zbigniew Jabłoński, podczas wspinaczki na Mnichu. Fot. Ryszard Ziemak Obok: Kozi Wierch znad Czarnego Stawu pod Kościelcem. Fot. Ryszard Ziemak http://pza.org.pl Taternik Organ Klubu Wysokogórskiego Rocznik 41 Warszawa, 1965 nr 3 - 4 (188 - 189 Oni ujproiuadzili nas UJ Tatry W dniach 23 i 24 października 1965 r. sy. Aktualne wykazy nazwisk przynosiły odbyły się w Zakopanem centralne uroczy drukowane przewodniki, a także roczniki stości jubileuszowe przewodnictwa tatrzań „Pamiętnika Towarzystwa Tatrzańskiego". -
The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper
The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn Author: Edward Whymper Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook 38044] Language: English ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** ii The Ascent of the Matterhorn iii “THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.” THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN BY EDWARD WHYMPER v vi The Ascent of the Matterhorn WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection.—LIVY. LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1880 All rights are reserved [v] PREFACE. In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They came—they saw—but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. -
ARGENTIÈRE VALLÉE DE CHAMONIX Activities
Languages & Exploration 13-17 year olds. Located 8 km from Chamonix, the Savoyard village of Argentiere is situated at 1250 m altitude. Between unspoiled Vallorcine and the legendary Chamonix, the village of Argentiere is the starting point for many hikes, but also trail running, mountain biking and mountaineering. Completely renovated, the center of Argentiere awaits you at the foot of the Aiguille Verte! ARGENTIÈRE VALLÉE DE CHAMONIX Activities Hiking, trail running, climbing, mountaineering, mountain biking, multisport. Accommodation Reasons to choose UCPA Comfort & IFALPES - Original building completely renovated and comfortable housing ■To enjoy an education which 300: 4 people per room (some rooms 5 and 6 people). Areas favors the welfare, safety, fun reserved for minors. and rewarding experiences for each youth to bring them closer - Showers and toilet facilities on each floor. to autonomy. - Bar, dining room with terrace facing Mont Blanc. - Sauna, climbing hall, sports hall ■ We provide the framework and - Outdoor heated pool expertise to ensure all activities - Track pump track are full of happy memories and Teachers, Trainers & Coaches good times shared. B.A.F.A. qualified instructors, guides, professional sports guides and leaders and a director with a B.A.F.D. diploma. ■ UCPA has 50 years of Qualified French teachers from IFALPES expertise in hosting and coaching quality. The center hosts: IFALPES has over 20 years’ - Adults and 16/17 year olds on common programs experience in teaching French. - Junior 13/17 years on specific programs for juniors Other Activities ■ All-inclusive peace of mind: Films, music, mountain animations, dances, park with heated accommodation, full board, outdoor pool, badminton, petanque, billiards, table tennis, supervision, sports equipment, projection room. -
One Hundred Years Ago C a Russell
One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) CA RUSSELL (Plates 83-86) Although the weather experienced in many parts of the Alps during the opening days ofJanuary 1891 was unsettled, with reports of violent winds and very low temperatures, conditions slowly improved as the month progressed and several winter expeditions of note were completed. In the Mont Blanc range on 14 January Paul Giissfeldt with a party including Emile Rey and David Proment made the first winter ascent of the Grandes Jorasses, reaching the summit by way of the SW face. The ascent was carefully planned and 'a great track had been made by a party ofmen sent some days before to clear the way as far as the Italian Club hut.' Any route to Pointe Walker, the highest peak, is a fine expedition and the climb was a considerable achievement, even for this formidable party. Later in the month Giissfeldt, with Rey, Proment and two porters climbed the Gran Paradiso. 'The ascent ofthis peak by Dr Giissfeldt onJanuary 25 last, though not the first that has been made in winter, deserves record as a remarkable performance.' The party succeeded 'after two false starts, in getting t off from the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele a few minutes before midnight on the 24th, reached the summit at 4.30, remained there twenty minutes and returned to the Rifugio at seven, thus accomplishing the whole excursion before sunrise. They were, however, favoured with a brilliant moon.' In the Bernina Alps on 20 February Mrs Elizabeth Mainl and WH Bulpett, with Martin Schocher and Martin Weibel, completed the first winter traverse of the three summits of Piz Palii and the first winter ascent of the central, highest, peak. -
0X0a I Don't Know Gregor Weichbrodt FROHMANN
0x0a I Don’t Know Gregor Weichbrodt FROHMANN I Don’t Know Gregor Weichbrodt 0x0a Contents I Don’t Know .................................................................4 About This Book .......................................................353 Imprint ........................................................................354 I Don’t Know I’m not well-versed in Literature. Sensibility – what is that? What in God’s name is An Afterword? I haven’t the faintest idea. And concerning Book design, I am fully ignorant. What is ‘A Slipcase’ supposed to mean again, and what the heck is Boriswood? The Canons of page construction – I don’t know what that is. I haven’t got a clue. How am I supposed to make sense of Traditional Chinese bookbinding, and what the hell is an Initial? Containers are a mystery to me. And what about A Post box, and what on earth is The Hollow Nickel Case? An Ammunition box – dunno. Couldn’t tell you. I’m not well-versed in Postal systems. And I don’t know what Bulk mail is or what is supposed to be special about A Catcher pouch. I don’t know what people mean by ‘Bags’. What’s the deal with The Arhuaca mochila, and what is the mystery about A Bin bag? Am I supposed to be familiar with A Carpet bag? How should I know? Cradleboard? Come again? Never heard of it. I have no idea. A Changing bag – never heard of it. I’ve never heard of Carriages. A Dogcart – what does that mean? A Ralli car? Doesn’t ring a bell. I have absolutely no idea. And what the hell is Tandem, and what is the deal with the Mail coach? 4 I don’t know the first thing about Postal system of the United Kingdom. -
Queste Montagne Suscitano Nel Cuore Il Senso Dell'infinito, Con Il Desiderio
Queste montagne suscitano nel cuore il senso dell'infinito, Emozioni con il desiderio di sollevare la mente verso ciò che è sublime d’estate Giovanni Paolo II La terrazza di The Punta Helbronnner Punta Helbronner, con vista terrace with a 360° view, a 360°, è uno dei punti is of the most spectacular più spettacolari del mondo. places in the world. La si raggiunge in 20 minuti di You arrive in 20 minutes funivia da Courmayeur by lift from Courmayeur viaggiando con le avveniristiche travelling in the futuristic cabine rotanti SkyWay revolving bubble lift SkyWay Monte Bianco. Monte Bianco. The views Il panorama in alta quota at high altitude are really è meraviglioso in tutte le stagioni wonderful in all seasons Fotograa di Albero Ziccardi iMontBlanc Magazine iMontBlanc Magazine 1 2 ' <IHGJM9KLHCIM GAGGIME&LHHI 1;JMCIDLMFL??FJDJHGLMELM3/8$L8M?JFMKEMGAFKD@IMBJEM<IHGJM9KLHCI K<IHG9ELHCM<5 5 4".MEIM;LMC;KJDGIMLBM5EJDDLHBFIM1L=LEKJFJ:M?JFM@IEGK LHHKM'FJDKBJHGJMBJ>EKMLE)JF>LGIFKM=LEBIDGLHK 3;:=18<6=:3<=%-;-=0<;9=.85=:825760=;58291=$89:=#4;9/=7$89:#4;9/ $"" =3;6=;6%<1=:376= 2<6:789=8.="4<66;9158= ;+;47<5<)=:3<=,5<671<9: 8.=:3<="86:;=+;44<-=;668/7;:789=8.=38:<47<56! passato solo un anno dall’inaugurazione (giugno 2015) e questa spettacolare opera si è già affermata nel mondo come il simbolo del Monte Bianco e di .’ Courmayeur. “Il gran numero di visitatori e l’attenzione internazionale della nuova funivia sono un impulso straordinario alla notorietà di questa zona” - commenta Alessandro Cavaliere - “Una delle grandi valenze di questo avveniristico impianto è di perseguire la destagionalizzazione dei flussi turistici; fare cioè in modo che l’area italiana del Monte Bianco abbia motivi di interesse e di attrattività al di fuori dei classici periodi sciistici o di vacanza estiva.